INDONESIA (REMOTE EASTERN) REP 10 - Birdquest

LEADER: CRAIG ROBSON 

REMOTE EASTERN INDONESIA 

11/21 NOVEMBER – 11 DECEMBER 2010 

TOUR REPORT 

On the second Birdquest to Remote Eastern Indonesia, we birded the ornithologically little visited 

islands of Buru, Ambon, Haruku, Yamdena (Tanimbar Is), and Kai. Despite some tough times on Buru 

early on, rain on many days, and a very hot and humid environment, our dedicated band of birders 

managed to notch-up the best list of regional endemics ever seen by an organized group in this area. 

In total we recorded around 237 species; depending on your taxonomic philosophy of course! 

Although the avifaunas are typically limited on these islands, the proportion of memorable birds is 

high. Amazingly though, the biggest surprise of the tour was a migrant from the north, a Chinese 

Crested Tern roosting with other terns off north Seram. Considering the very small numbers that are 

currently known of this critically endangered species, it seems impossibly fortunate that we could 

stumble across one at its most distant wintering site ever recorded. Amongst the residents, highlights 

included all four species of scrubfowl, including a pair Tanimbars charging towards us and a 

Moluccan egg-laying on a Forsten’s Scrubfowl mound in broad daylight, Little Eagle, a range of 

beautiful fruit-doves, both Buru and Seram Mountain-pigeons (split from Long-tailed), a long 

encounter with a pair of Purple-naped Lories – a species that we never seriously hoped to see, 

multiple sightings of Salmon-crested Cockatoos and Tanimbar Corellas, great perched views of Redbreasted 

and Yellow-capped Pygmy-parrots, large numbers of stunning Buru Racket-tails and 

Moluccan King-parrots, Pied Bronze Cuckoo, three owl-splits in the form of Kai, Tanimbar and Hantu 

Boobooks (the former unfortunately only heard), some excellent kingfishers, including Common 

Paradise-, Lazuli and Little, satisfying looks at both Blue-breasted and Elegant Pittas, Green Figbird, 

Seram (split from Slender-billed) and Tanimbar (split from Torresian) Crows, many sightings of the 

boldly-marked Slaty-backed Thrush, as well as glimpses of the more secretive Fawn-breasted, 

Tanimbar Bush-warbler, all the local forms of Bradypterus and Phylloscopus warblers, Streakbreasted 

Jungle-flycatcher, the neat little Tanimbar Flycatcher (split from Rufous-chested), Cinnamonchested 

Flycatcher, Black-bibbed, Black-tipped and White-tailed Monarchs, Tawny-backed Fantail, 

the outrageous Long-crested Myna, two forms of scintillating Wakolo Myzomela, the restricted-range 

Great and Little Kai White-eyes, and Rufescent and Grey-hooded Dark-eyes. Away from the birds, we 

1 Birdquest: Remote Eastern Indonesia 2010

had two different species of cuscus, and some really stunning butterflies and dragonflies, many of 

which were regional endemics. 

The tour began on the little-visited island of Buru, after an overnight ferry journey from Ambon, the 

capital of South Maluku Province. We were a bit sorry to miss-out on seawatching but at least we 

slept for most of the trip. On arrival, we quickly checked into our hotel and then headed off for some 

introductory birding in some lowland forest patches at Waslabi and Air Mandidi, south-west of 

Namlea. Our first Buru endemics were soon rolling in, with Buru Golden Bulbul (split from Southern 

Golden), Buru Drongo (split from Spangled), Black-tipped Monarch, Buru Friarbird, Buru 

Flowerpecker (split from Flame-breasted), and Buru White-eye all giving themselves up easily. Other 

good birds in these areas were a nice pair of White-throated Pigeons that flew over, Superb Fruitdove, 

Buru (or Spectacled) Imperial Pigeon, Moluccan Cuckoo (i.e. the local form of Rusty-breasted 

in this case), Australian Koel, Seram Swiftlet (split from Moluccan), flocks of migrant White-throated 

Needletails soaring over the ridges, the superb Moustached Treeswift, Pale Cicadabird, White-naped 

Monarch, Slaty Flycatcher, Drab Whistler, Black Sunbird, Black-breasted Sunbird (split from Olivebacked), 

and Black-faced Munia. Air Mandidi had some wetlands, which supported Wandering 

Whistling-duck, Australian Swamphen, and Australian Reed-warbler. En route between sites and at 

lunch, we also scanned cultivation. A huge swirling mass of at least 150 Oriental Pratincoles was 

unexpected, and we also saw two Spotted Harriers. We finished the day trying to get views of our 

first Forsten’s Scrubfowls, which were calling back to us near their mound. 

Our second day took us further along the coast to accommodation at Waspait Resort Buru, and we 

also explored the Waipoti (Wae Putih) Logging Road. At the latter we found our first Buru Rackettails, 

without realizing how common they would later become, and glimpsed Buru Bush-warbler 

(split from Chestnut-backed). This was not a great site however. 

The next day we were off to the hills in 4WD vehicles for some serious trekking as we attempted to 

track-down the high-elevation endemics – an attempt that provided us all with many challenging 

moments. Reaching the higher levels of the Wamlana Logging Road, we made some relatively brief 

stops, first for large numbers of Buru Racket-tails and then for scope views of the amazing Redbreasted 

Pygmy-parrot. At the end of the drivable logging road, we met-up with a large band of 

porters, and set off with our guides. The plan was to hike to a village at the foot of the higher 

mountains west of Danau Rana, a large volcanic lake in the centre of the island. We had not gone far 

when the first of a number of streams had to be forded. We were, in general, following the course of 

a larger river and between each tributary-crossing there was a slippery scramble up a ridge and then 

down to the next stream. But after several hours and a break for lunch we descended to walk 

alongside, and then increasingly in, the muddy margins of the main river. When it started to rain our 

earlier efforts to keep our feet dry by taking shoes and socks off to ford each stream seemed to be 

rather pointless and we trudged on, little realizing that our feet would hardly be dry for the next four 

days! After about six hours we noticed some tell-tale rubbish on the path and soon afterwards some 

graveyards – we were nearing the village of Lemampoli. There was a sting-in-the-tail however, as the 

village was on the other side of a river and we had a knee-deep torrent swollen by the rain to cross 

before we arrived in the communal village area; to be closely examined by the curious locals, who 

had probably rarely seen foreigners before. The village was rather an enigma as it consisted of about 

40 almost identical buildings with sheet-iron roofs. Quite why it was here and what all the people 

did was hard to fathom. One house boasted a generator and therefore a TV, but otherwise there was 

no electricity. The only other signs of Western civilization were the football shirts worn by the 

children. After a lot of discussion we were all billeted into one pokey dark building, for a rather 

uncomfortable night. 


After breakfast, we set off with a local hunter towards a ridge above the village, though from what we 

could see, this would not get us high enough for the species we really wanted to see. After passing 

through the village garden where the coffee and coconuts grew, the path plunged into a stream and 

seemed to disappear. Our hunter of course knew where he was going and after walking upstream for 

a while we started to climb up and up, with no sign of a path or a ridge. We were deep inside 

primary forest where we could see little of the surroundings. Birds were also few, though we had 

views of perched Buru Mountain-pigeon (split from Long-tailed) and the superb Common Paradisekingfisher, 

and a Great-billed Parrot flew over calling. Whether there was a trail at the top or not we 

never found out. After several hours we abandoned the trek and returned to the village. Wherever we 

needed to go we would not get there this way, and an alternative was needed. It was clear that we 

would not be able to get to the higher elevations on this trip, and we decided to make our way back 

to the head of the logging road, hopefully picking up all of the remaining lowland and submontane 

endemics along the way. Having seen how we had struggled the previous day, the porters and guides 

thought that if “the river was not too high” that we could return by a different route, and join an old 

logging road that would be easier walking. The scout thought all was ok, and we were led to the river 

and across it. The river was stony-bottomed, very wide and fast-flowing and, although there were dry 

areas and shallows, the main part was crotch-deep! With the help of two locals each, we staggered 

across and no-one was lost! More remarkably, no luggage was dropped in the water either. Once 

across the river the old logging track seemed as far away as ever and a path had to be hacked 

through a bamboo patch to reach it. Just as we did so, the day’s thunderstorm hit and we decided to 

‘camp’. Machetes soon had two tree-trunks of the right shape in place, one horizontally jammed into 

a tree at the side of the track, and the other with a fork at the top rammed in the ground to support 

the horizontal one. A tarpaulin was thrown over the top and tied to vegetation bordering the track to 

form the roof of a tent. Large banana leaves were cut to act as a floor and another tarpaulin thrown 

on that. While the camp crew prepared dinner, we were kept busy with some serious trenching to 

divert the water flowing down the track around the ‘tent’. It was getting hard to believe that this was 

the dry season. When the rain finally stopped in the evening we birded nearby. A couple more 

Forsten’s Scrubfowl were seen and, after dark, we heard several Moluccan Scops-owls. While we 

were all asleep, Magnus and Ed heard Hantu Boobook (split from Moluccan). 

The following day the story had changed somewhat. This old logging road was only passable in 

sections, even on foot, and we would have to cross a ridge by a trail and then descend to another 

village (Waidanga) to get to the ‘real’ logging road. So off we set and this time there did seem to be 

something of a trail, though tricky and slippery in places, and overgrown in others. As we descended 

to the next valley we were met by some of the villagers who explained through our guides that we 

were about to enter a ‘mystical place’ and would have to remove our hats, jewellery and watches 

etc. We never did find out exactly where the mystical place was – the path crossed and re-crossed 

the meandering river, and seemed to run along it for much of its length. It was quite a good morning 

for birds though, and we had scope views of a male of the rare Buru Green-pigeon, a pair of Buru 

Orioles that seemed to have a nest nearby, and another pair of Black-tipped Monarchs. We arrived at 

Waidanga in the late morning in hot sunshine and immediately laid all our things out to dry. We 

accepted the village head’s offer of coffee and locally made cake and exchanged pleasantries. We 

rested through lunch and the day’s rain-shower, and then set off, soon joining the main logging road 

for the last part of our walk back to the starting point at the end of Wamlana Logging Road. This road 

was currently disconnected from the latter logging road due to the recent loss of a bridge and, when 

we reached that point, we needed to cross the swollen river somehow. Luckily, there was a bridge – 

of sorts. It consisted of two single long bamboo poles bound end-to-end with vines and slung 

between two points, some three metres above the fast-flowing torrent, and with vines strung along 

each side for hand-rails. We were advised to take shoes and socks off for the crossing, to get a 

steadier grip with our feet. Remarkably, the crossing was quite easy and less frightening than it 


looked. The only real ‘moment’ was in the middle, when one moved from one bamboo pole to the 

other. An ill-advised glance down revealed the gushing river and gave the illusion that one was being 

swept away. It was heartening having done this, to see that even the porters were having some 

problems – though they were carrying our heavy bags at the time! Once across, we managed to 

persuade the porters to carry our bags for a few kilometres more, before we set up another simple 

camp on the logging road itself. The nearby mountain stream had a small waterfall and pool, giving 

us a welcome shower to wash in! After dark, a couple of our crew-members were dispatched to walk 

the 30-40km back along Wamlana Logging Road in order to bring back our vehicles a day early. 

We set off early on foot, deciding that we should head for the higher elevation stretches back along 

the road as quickly as possible. The days tended to heat-up very quickly on Buru. As we ascended 

we started to get a few more birds, with our first of several endemic Streak-breasted Jungle-flycatchers 

being a welcome early bonus. Before lunch though, we were met by our vehicles and drove up to 

the top of the ridge for lunch, after which we walked to the highest point at just over 1300m. In this 

area we notched-up a pair of Buru Cuckoo-shrikes, Buru Leaf-warbler (split from Island), and Wakolo 

Myzomela, as well as our first White-bibbed Fruit-doves. At dusk, we drove back down to Waspait 

Resort Buru, with its very welcome luxuries. 

Basing ourselves at Waspait, we spent the next day and a half birding along the Wamlana Logging 

Road as far as KM20 and also along a side-road that was being newly constructed. Buru Bushwarbler 

was seen better, and we had many singing Tawny-backed Fantails, another upland endemic, 

along the new road. A singing male Cinnamon-chested Flycatcher was also seen well at the latter 

location. Other sightings during these last days included plenty of Buru Mountain-pigeons, large 

numbers of Buru Racket-tails, more Buru Cuckoo-shrikes, numerous Pale Cicadabird, and more Buru 

Leaf-warblers, Streak-breasted Jungle-flycatchers, Wakolo Myzomelas and Buru White-eyes. 

Unfortunately, our plans to spend some time in the lowland forests near Bara, to the west of Waspait 

were cut short due to hiccup in the Ambon ferry departure programme, which meant that we were 

forced to leave two days earlier than planned. Before catching the ferry we tried seawatching from 

the coast north of Namlea, but only managed a couple of very distant Bulwer’s Petrels. 

Ever resourceful, we used the additional time on Ambon to look at as many sites as possible. Three 

different forest patches were visited, and we found the endemic Ambon White-eye at all of them. 

They were even tame enough to get a few photos. Other nice birds included Variable Goshawk, a 

surprisingly responsive pair of calling Rufous-tailed Bush-hens, Brown Cuckoo-dove, Emerald Dove, 

Superb and Claret-breasted Fruit-doves, Seram Imperial Pigeon (split from Buru), Australian Koel, 

Uniform Swiftlet, Lazuli Kingfishers, Seram Golden Bulbul (another split from Southern Golden), 

Spectacled Monarch, Slaty Flycatcher, the very distinctive local form of Northern Fantail, Common 

Golden Whistler, Drab Honeyeater, and many Ashy Flowerpeckers. Very early on one morning, we 

were up at 0230 and speeding across the sea to the neighbouring island of Haruku. Here, at Kailolo, 

we visited perhaps the largest Moluccan Scrubfowl breeding area in the world. The birds fly down at 

night from the surrounding hills (even from south Seram apparently) to lay their eggs in sandy 

openings amongst the coastal vegetation – and the adjacent graveyard! The eggs are incubated by the 

warmth of the sun and from there, the fully independent young hatch. Thankfully, it was a full moon 

and we found at least 30 birds – though there were clearly many more. Many of the eggs are dug up 

by local people for food, but the colony seemed to be well-managed. Before it got light, we were also 

fortunate enough to get great spotlight views of Moluccan Scops-owl. 

On the way back to Ambon, we stopped to bird Pulau Pombo, a tiny and seldom visited coralline 

island. In the forest were a handful of Island Monarchs, and some Gray’s Grasshopper-warblers. 


Offshore were a Brown Booby, several Red-necked Phalaropes and Pomarine Jaegers, and a mixture 

of terns, while the exposed sand- and mudflats fed a few shorebirds, including Grey-tailed Tattler, 

Ruddy Turnstone and Sanderling. 

In the evening we were joined by our final participant, Keith, and the next morning we flew to 

Yamdena in the Tanimbar Islands – the east Lesser Sundas. We landed abruptly on a rather short 

runway, and were soon whisked away to the well-situated Harapan Indah Hotel on the shore of 

Saumlaki Bay. The next four days were spent making twice-daily forays to several different areas of 

forest alongside the main roads to the north of Saumlaki. A large part of Yamdena is still carpeted in 

dense primary forest, and we were basically picking around the southern edge of this forest mass, 

following a series of old logging roads and trails. During our stay, we were fortunate enough to find 

all of the endemics. The highlight for some of us was seeing the skulking Tanimbar Scrubfowl. A 

local hunter led us off the main trail and well into the forest, where he showed us an enormous 

communal nest-mound. Fortunately a pair of scrubfowl started calling and, after capturing the sound, 

we taped the birds in – though the views were rather brief on this occasion. In recompense we had 

great views of a secretive Slaty-backed Thrush and an Elegant Pitta also perched-up. Later with some 

well thought-out strategy we managed to get another pair of scrubfowl to approach to within four 

metres, before they saw us and made an impressive and noisy escape into the tree-tops! For others, 

the highlight may have been the many noisy Tanimbar Corellas that we saw, the amazing Tanimbar 

Boobook in broad daylight, or the very obliging Tanimbar Bush-warbler that circled us and showed 

so well. The best of the rest included the lovely Wallace’s Fruit-dove, Yellow-eyed Imperial Pigeon 

with its amazing crow-like voice, great views of the restricted range Barred-necked Cuckoo-dove and 

Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon (both much easier here than further west in the Lesser Sundas), Bluestreaked 

Lory, scope views of several Pied Bronze Cuckoos, a perched Elegant Pitta that we all got 

onto, two different Kai Cicadabirds, the very distinctive dark local form of Wallace’s Cuckoo-shrike, 

glimpses for some of Fawn-breasted Thrush, the neat little Tanimbar Flycatcher (split from Rufouschested), 

the surprisingly skulking Black-bibbed Monarch, pied Wallacean Whistler, and the highly 

distinctive Long-tailed Fantail which often feeds near the ground. 

From Tanimbar we took a short flight to Tual on Kai Kecil, in the Kai Islands. Well we did once the 

aircraft had been fixed! On landing, our small aeroplane had burst a tyre and the wheel had to be 

changed. It seemed to be the pilot who undertook this task, though there was no shortage of helpers 

to give advice! After a wait of two and a half hours, we were glad to get on our way, and we soon 

arrived at Langgur Dumatubun Airport, albeit in a downpour. After lunch it had stopped, and we set 

off for Ohoililur Beach on the north-west coast of Kai Kecil. We were not here to take it easy of 

course, so instead of chilling-out on the beach we scrambled up a rough steep slope onto a raised 

limestone escarpment covered in rather dense secondary forest. The birding here was quite good 

considering it was the afternoon. We had our first views of the highly distinctive and endemic Little 

Kai White-eye, as well as Varied Triller, the lovely endemic White-tailed Monarch, striking local 

forms of Northern and Arafura Fantails, both Island and Grey-headed Whistlers, and Mistletoebird. 

As the day drew to a close, and we returned to our vehicles, we also had great views of an Orangefooted 

Scrubfowl standing on a branch. Aside from the birds, the highlight was an endearing and 

rather tame Common Spotted Cuscus looking down at us from a tree. They are highly prized by the 

local people for food, and even our guides seemed to be licking-their-lips. 

The next day we were off by boat before dawn for a half-day trip to Kai Besar. This long, narrow 

island is the largest in the group and is still mostly clothed in untouched forest. En route a stunning 

sunrise lit-up the remnant towering clouds from the thunderstorms of the previous day. At the jetty, 

we boarded a rather battered-looking Mitsubishi mini-bus (when it finally arrived) that proved to be 

the ideal vehicle for traversing the shoddy, steep and pot-hole-ridden little road that led north. 


Initially though, a tyre needed to be replaced, so while this was being done we birded the first patch 

of secondary scrub and plantation that we came to. Almost immediately we heard the familiar tones 

of a white-eye, and there was Kai Besar's most well-known endemic, the Great Kai White-eye. They 

proved to be common enough during the morning. Our first Kai Coucal also perched-up in the open 

to be scoped. The less well-known endemic on this island is Kai Leaf-warbler, a very distinctive 

species that was trashed in the Island Leaf-warbler ‘dustbin’. To see this we needed to head for the 

hills and attain some elevation. Driving to the highest point of the little road we followed a side-track 

down to Bukit Indah Mission, with a backdrop of beautifully forested hills. Provided with a local 

guide, we asked to be taken along a trail that would get us higher up towards the peaks. Some 

misunderstanding followed and we traipsed along a muddy path that seemed to go nowhere. 

Eventually we cleared things up, and after consulting with some locals in a little hut, we found our 

way up to 425m, though by that time we were very hot and sweating profusely! Soon though, we 

heard a leaf-warbler singing and worked our way into a clearing where we could get a better view. 

Excellent; we had very nice looks at a pair feeding dependant fledged young – job done. The trail 

back down to the mission was quick and easy, so we were puzzled as to exactly what had gone 

wrong in the first place! Other good species here were the local race of Variable Goshawk, a pair of 

the endemic form of White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, and perched-up Brush Cuckoo. After lunch back 

at the jetty we returned to Kai Kecil and then drove to a patch of secondary forest on neighbouring 

Kai Dullah, which is accessed by a bridge. Here we were hoping to find the soon-to-be-split Kai 

Boobook. Unfortunately there was not a peep, and the habitat had apparently also deteriorated 

considerably since it was last seen here, according to Ceisar. Our last day on the Kai Islands was 

spent exploring new forest patches on Kai Kecil. The first, at Letfuan, was rather poor but we did get 

great perched views of a Blue-breasted Pitta, and some feral Tanimbar Corellas were unexpected. 

The second site turned out to be really good, an area of logged forest at Samawi. Walking up and 

down a several kilometre-long stretch for much of the day, we notched-up some really good birds. 

Yellow-capped Pygmy-parrots were found to be quite common and we had some great views, a large 

breeding group of Eclectus Parrots were watched for a long time, we saw several Red-flanked 

Lorikeets in flight, Pied Bronze Cuckoo, Kai Coucal, another dark form of Wallacean Cuckoo-shrike 

(related to the one on Tanimbar) and, not long before dark, we finally caught up with the scarce 

Green Figbird in a giant fig tree (several had earlier been seen more fleetingly). After dark, there was 

still no boobook though, so we decided to try Letfuan again, as this had at least looked good for 

owls. On arrival and immediately after playing the sound, a bird called back loudly, but then 

promptly shut up. We waited around and tried, but clearly we were out of luck and time with this 

one. 

From Kai it was another short flight back to Ambon using a third airline and a third aircraft type. 

Then a quick drive across the northern part of the island to meet the very swish Seram ferry, with its 

air-conditioned lounge fitted-out with old business-class aircraft seats. A short trip ‘up top’ revealed 

almost no birds over the sea apart from a Brown Booby, and so we made the most of the luxury until 

we arrived at Masohi on the south coast of Seram. After checking into the hotel we visited some 

lowland forest patches nearby. Rain-stopped-play again however, and by the time it had finished it 

was getting late. A flock of 13 Great-billed Parrots was unusual and we saw Lazuli Kingfisher again. 

We spent the following week on Seram, based at a well-situated coastal guest house at Sawai, on the 

north coast. Built on stilts like a pier, it was surrounded by some impressive coral-growth with its 

attendant rich variety of colourful fish. The small village of Sawai is tucked into a sort of cove, and is 

situated 30 minutes down a largely rough track. Our three Toyota Kuangs mostly made light work of 

this, though one of the drivers was a ‘rookie’ and bored himself into a deep mud-hole on one 

afternoon. We saw most of the bird specialities on the first full day, when we drove over from 

Masohi, and it became a case of ‘the law of diminishing returns’, as we birded various levels of the 


Trans-Seram Highway – a rather grand name for a black-topped road that was undergoing continual 

maintenance as bits fell in or were covered by land-slips and trees from the steep hill-sides. The road 

cuts through the wonderful forests of the huge Mansuela National Park and makes for some easy 

birding. One of the primary species that the park was set up to protect is the endangered Salmoncrested 

Cockatoo, and we saw a dozen or more at our first roadside stop in the foothills. This 

productive are also brought us Seram Crow (split from Slender-billed), Moluccan Cuckoo-shrike at 

the nest, and our first Long-crested Mynas and Seram White-eyes (split from Black-fronted). During 

our first morning along the higher stretches of the road, based at Sawai, we were extremely fortunate 

to see a pair of Purple-naped Lories, a lovely endemic that is rarely seen by visiting birders. Our 

guides Vino and Peter alerted us to the rather un-parrot-like calls of the birds, but it was quite some 

time before we tracked them down, some 80m off-road inside the forest. Once inside with the pair, 

they were remarkably confiding and we were able to watch them going about their business 

(including much courting) for over half an hour. Quite a few other endemics and specialities were 

only seen at the higher levels. We had great views of a soaring Little Eagle, many views of Seram 

Mountain-pigeons (split from Long-tailed), more perched Red-breasted Pygmy-parrots, surprisingly 

good views of Seram Bush-warbler (split from Chestnut-backed), numerous Seram Leaf-warblers (split 

from Island), Streak-breasted Fantail, both Seram and Drab Honeyeaters and the local form of 

Wakolo Myzomela all feeding on the same flowers, and two unusual flock-following dark-eyes, 

Rufescent and Grey-hooded. We also birded in lowland forests from Sawai to beyond Wahai. Some 

stretches were brilliant for parrots, with our largest numbers and best views of Rainbow and Redflanked 

Lorikeets, Moluccan Red Lory, and Moluccan King-parrot. 30 of the latter were seen together 

at one spot where, after dark, we also tracked-down Hantu Boobook (split from Moluccan), and 

watched it giving its low-pitched calls for a very lengthy period. A calling Variable Dwarf Kingfisher 

was also seen well in flight by a couple of us nearer Wahai, and Common Paradise-kingfisher was 

scoped. 

On another day we took boats down the Salawi River to the east of the guest house at Sawai. 

Cruising slowly upstream, we passed Australian White Ibises feeding on the tidal mud and we had 

good flight views of a couple of Little Kingfishers, a species only recently discovered in Seram. As the 

river narrowed we finally found our main target, a group of four Spotted Whistling-ducks. Heading 

back the open sea, a pair of very large and loud Channel-billed Cuckoos flew across overhead. 

Heading across a short stretch of ocean to the north-east, we arrived at the remarkably tiny islet of 

Pulau Lusaolate. Even before we got out of the boat we had heard the bird that we had come here to 

see – the small-island-loving Olive Honeyeater. It only took five or ten minutes to walk around the 

islet, but there were a good 30 honeyeaters; calling, singing, and flying about. Quite how this small 

population survives on this isolated outcrop is unclear, but evidently populations can survive at 

much lower levels than some authorities suggest, as these birds have been here since at least 1912. 

Soon after our arrival, I noticed 30-40 Greater Crested Terns on some rocks just off the beach, but 

they got flushed. Fortunately they returned to roost there before we got back on the boat. Checking 

through the flock, I saw one that I thought might be a Lesser Crested. Once in the scope though, I 

immediately realised that I was looking at perhaps the first-ever wintering Chinese Crested Tern to be 

seen by a birder. We quickly all had some good looks at it, and then took a series of photos through 

the scope. The bird flew off with a few Greater Cresteds and was briefly seen foraging offshore, 

before it disappeared around the island. This amazing record, the first away from the breeding 

grounds for nearly 70 years, begs the question of how many more are wintering in this region, 

around the numerous islands in the Seram Sea, or perhaps even further south in the Banda Sea. With 

an estimated population of no more than 50 birds, this Critically Endangered species is China’s most 

threatened bird and much rarer than Giant Panda. 


Though with less epic birds on offer Pulau Sawai, which lies directly offshore from the village, also 

had much to offer. Here we managed to get several better looks at Forsten’s Scrubfowl and, 

amazingly and inexplicably, we also saw a Moluccan Scrubfowl egg-laying on a Forsten’s mound in 

broad daylight, at point-blank range. Low tide revealed extensive sand- and mudflats here, and our 

best selection of wintering shorebirds. A handful of Far Eastern Curlews and lots of Terek Sandpipers 

were particularly notable. 

Our last morning birding on Seram was a wet one, as we drove slowly back across to Masohi. Little 

could be added, as we had already found so much. Another luxury ferry jaunt across the ocean 

returned us to Ambon, where we spent the night before heading home via Jakarta. 


SYSTEMATIC LIST 

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). 

Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). 

Subspecies names are given where known and/or appropriate, either in a comment or in parentheses. 

PROCELLARIIDAE 

Bulwer’s Petrel Bulweria bulwerii: Two very distant birds during a seawatch from the north-east tip of 

Buru. 

FREGATIDAE 

Great Frigatebird Fregata minor: Just a single adult male over the harbour at Kai Besar. 

Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel: Widely recorded, with the largest gathering being about 70 birds 

close inshore at Kai Kecil. 

PHALACROCORACIDAE 

Little Black Cormorant Phalacrocorax sulcirostris: A few were seen in Saumlaki Bay. 

Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos: More widespread than the last species, with the 

largest number recorded being at least 20 around Pulau Sawai, north Seram. 

SULIDAE 

Brown Booby Sula leucogaster: Several distant birds off Waspait, Buru, and a closer bird from 

Pombo Island, between Ambon and Haruku. It was presumably the latter bird again that 

we saw from the Ambon-Seram Ferry. 

PELECANIDAE 

Australian Pelican Pelecanus conspicillatus: Two in Saumlaki Bay. 

ARDEIDAE 

Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana: A single bird on mud- and sandflats at Pulau Sawai, Seram. 

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Up to 15 were seen around cultivation on Buru. 

Great Egret (Great White Egret) Egretta alba: Regular sightings of this widespread species (modesta). 

Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Rather scarce, with only scattered sightings. About 20 at Pulau Sawai 

appeared to be the blackish-footed race nigripes. 

Pacific Reef-egret Egretta sacra: Generally distributed in small numbers (nominate race). All dark 

morph birds? 

Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: Only seen on three days in lowland cultivation on Buru 

and Seram. 

Javan Pond-heron Ardeola speciosa: About eight birds at Makassar Airport, SW Sulawesi, en route 

from Ambon to Jakarta. 

Little Heron (Striated H) Butorides striatus: Small numbers in northern Seram were moluccarum; 

while on Yamdena, we saw an amazing melanistic bird along the forest stream at Kebun 

45, Lorulun. The latter was sooty-coloured all over, without any obvious markings, and 

we had to rely on size and shape for its identification. 

CICONIIDAE 

Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: About eight birds at Makassar Airport. 


THRESKIORNITHIDAE 

Australian White Ibis (Australian I) Threskiornis molucca: At least 16 of these predominantly 

Australasian birds in the coastal habitats around Sawai. It breeds on Seram. 

ACCIPITRIDAE 

Osprey Pandion haliaetus: One in Saumlaki Bay and three in coastal habitats near Sawai, north 

Seram. According to Wink et al. (2004), genetic distances between subspecies of Osprey 

(1.9-3.8%) are equivalent to, or greater than, those seen between members of several 

closely related sister species within Aquila and Hieraeetus. This, combined with small but 

consistent differences in plumage and morphology, led Wink et al. (2004) and Wink & 

Sauer-Gürth (2004) to suggest that three species of Osprey could be recognised. The form 

in Wallacea would be Eastern Osprey Pandion cristatus, of Australasia. However, this 

treatment has not yet been widely followed. The BirdLife Taxonomic Working Group for 

example, chose not to follow Wink et al. because the molecular analyses were published 

outside the peer-reviewed literature; the BTWG adopts the view that intrageneric genetic 

differentiation alone is an unsatisfactory basis for species recognition and prefers to wait 

for further validation before accepting this proposed split. 

Pacific Baza Aviceda subcristata: Two singles at Lorulun, Yamdena (timorlaoensis), two pairs on Kai 

Besar (pallida), three along the Trans-Seram Highway in the Wahai region (reinwardtii), 

and one at Ewang Tulahu, Ambon (reinwardtii). There is much variation amongst the 

races of this species, and there is certainly the possibility of some future splits. 

Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: Regularly seen (intermedius on Yamdena, and girrenera elsewhere). 

White-bellied Sea-eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: Magnus spotted an adult over Pombo I, we had 

immature birds at Lorulun, Yamdena and off Kai Besar, and a singleton in the Wahai 

region, north Seram. 

Spotted Harrier Circus assimilis: Two different birds in the lowlands of east Buru. Although probably 

resident here, there do not appear to be any records from the island (or the Moluccas) 

prior to those made during our first tour in 2008. 

Variable Goshawk Accipiter hiogaster: Two briefly in flight on Ambon and then four (including 

scope views) on Seram (both chestnut-bellied nominate), and seven of the much paler 

albiventris on Kai Besar and Kai Kecil. A pair of the latter where also seen at a nest on Kai 

Kecil. It is hard to believe that these forms belong to the same species. Australian and 

Tasmanian birds are now treated as a separate species: Grey Goshawk A. 

novaehollandiae. 

Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Common in the highlands of Buru and Seram. 

Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus: One circling at Lorulun. Either the distinctive race renschi, 

which some people are mooting as a distinct species, or a similar but currently 

undescribed form. H. f. renschi is smaller and more heavily marked than its distant 

mainland relatives. 

Little Eagle Hieraaetus morphnoides: Nice flight views of one over montane forest along the Trans- 

Seram Highway. A very little known bird in this part of its range. 

FALCONIDAE 

Spotted Kestrel (Moluccan Kestrel) Falco moluccensis: Many observations of this widespread little 

raptor on Buru and Seram (moluccensis). 

Oriental Hobby Falco severus: Small numbers on Buru and Seram, with one seen catching a Pacific 

Swallow. 

Peregrine Falcon (Peregrine) Falco peregrinus: A large juvenile over cultivation at Flamboyan, Buru 

was thought to be of a wintering form. 

10 Birdquest: Remote Eastern Indonesia 2010

ANATIDAE 

Spotted Whistling-duck Dendrocygna guttata: Six birds in the Sawai lowlands, north Seram, being 

best seen during our boat ride along the Salawi River. 

Wandering Whistling-duck Dendrocygna arcuata: Three were seen several times in flight at Air 

Mandidi, Buru. Not recorded from the Moluccas, according to Coates & Bishop, but it 

was seen nearby on the previous tour. 

MEGAPODIIDAE 

Orange-footed Scrubfowl Megapodius reinwardt: We obtained excellent views of this relatively 

confiding mound builder on Kai Kecil. 

Forsten’s Scrubfowl Megapodius forstenii: Quite a few encounters with this rather secretive 

megapode. On Buru (buruensis), there were two near a mound at Air Mandidi, and a few 

during our trek – all seen rather fleetingly. We had better luck with one or two birds on 

Pulau Sawai, north Seram (forstenii). Previously, these forms were collectively lumped in 

the previous species. 

Tanimbar Scrubfowl Megapodius tenimberensis: Seeing this rare endemic was one of the highlights 

of the tour. Once we had recorded its distinctive voice, we taped-in several birds near 

Lorulun, Yamdena; including a pair that charged us with heads down and then took to 

the trees to vent their anger! Local hunters showed us two active mounds, one of which 

was absolutely enormous. 

Moluccan Scrubfowl Eulipoa wallacei: Our visit to the extensive and very well managed breeding 

area at Kailolo, Haruku, proved to be a great success, with about 30 birds being found in 

the patchwork of small sandy openings there. Although this was a wonderful moon-lit 

experience, our best views of the species were of a bird inexplicably egg-laying on a 

Forsten’s Scrubfowl mound, in broad daylight at point-blank range, on Pulau Sawai. The 

species is mainly confined to the Moluccas, but also occurs on the West Papuan island of 

Misool. 

PHASIANIDAE 

Blue-breasted Quail Coturnix chinensis: Two that we flushed at Lorulun, were totally unexpected, 

and apparently not previously recorded from the island. The race is presumably lineata. 

RALLIDAE 

Red-necked Crake Rallina tricolor (H): Heard calling at three different sites in the Lorulun area, 

Yamdena. A tape that I made of a long call sequence matches descriptions of the 

vocalisations of this species, and it is also pretty much the only option in the Tanimbar Is. 

Rufous-tailed Bush-hen Amaurornis moluccana: Some excellent views of this often difficult skulker. 

A pair on Ambon, a pair in the Masohi lowlands, south Seram and three by the Trans- 

Seram Highway en route to the mountains from Masohi. 

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: Five seen and several heard at Air Mandidi, east 

Buru, and a few along the lowland parts of the Trans-Seram Highway. The distinctive 

leucomelanus subspecies, which is apparently highly variable, and therefore perhaps 

unlikely to be regarded as a distinct species in future. 

Australian Swamphen Porphyrio melanotus: Just one at Air Mandidi, Buru. 

CHARADRIIDAE 

Grey Plover (Black-bellied P) Pluvialis squatarola: Two on coralline mudflats at Pombo I, one on the 

airstrip at Saumlaki, Yamdena, and at least 13 on mud- and sandflats at Pulau Sawai, 

north Seram. 

Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: Two to four at Pombo I and two on Saumlaki airstrip. 


Lesser Sand-plover (Mongolian P) Charadrius mongolus: 12 at Pombo I, and at least 13 at Pulau 

Sawai. 

Greater Sand-plover Charadrius leschenaultii: Two at Pombo I, and at least 14 at Pulau Sawai. 

SCOLOPACIDAE 

Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: Two at Pombo I, two on Kai Kecil and at least 40 at Pulau 

Sawai (variegatus). 

Far Eastern Curlew Numenius madagascariensis: Six at Pulau Sawai, north Seram; potentially a good 

wintering site for this Vulnerable shorebird. 

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica: Just one at Pulau Sawai. 

Common Redshank Tringa totanus: One at Pulau Sawai (eurhinus). 

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia (NL): One was seen from Baguala Bay Resort, Ambon. 

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: One was frequenting roadside ponds at Lorulun, Yamdena. 

Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus: A maximum of 12 on Pulau Sawai. 

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Common and widespread. 

Grey-tailed Tattler Heteroscelus brevipes: Five at Pombo I, and at least 35 at Pulau Sawai. 

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: Three at Pombo I. 

Sanderling Calidris alba: A singleton at Pombo. 

Rufous-necked Stint (Red-necked S) Calidris ruficollis: Just six at Pulau Sawai. 

Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus: A group of eight landed on the sea just off Pombo I, and 

Helge saw two during the Seram to Ambon crossing. 

GLAREOLIDAE 

Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum: A swirling flock of about 150 birds over ricefields at 

Flamboyan, Buru, and a lonely singleton on the airfield at Saumlaki. 

LARIDAE 

Pomarine Jaeger (P Skua) Stercorarius pomarinus: Four around Pombo I, and another between Seram 

and Ambon. 

STERNIDAE 

White-winged Black Tern (W-w Tern) Chlidonias leucopterus: Two off Waspait, Buru, three at 

Pombo I, and one in Saumlaki Bay. 

Common Tern Sterna hirundo: A roosting flock of about 40 at Pombo I. 

Bridled/Sooty Tern Sterna anaethetus/fuscatus: A single rather distant bird during the boat journey 

back from Seram. 

Greater Crested Tern Sterna bergii: Common, with maxima of 70 counted off Waspait, Buru, and 80 

in coastal waters near Sawai. 

Chinese Crested Tern Sterna bernsteini: The most amazing discovery during the tour. A single bird 

was found roosting with a flock of 30-40 Greater Crested Terns on rocks fringing Pulau 

Lusaolate, near Sawai, north Seram. This is the only contemporary wintering record for 

this critically endangered species, and the first from its winter range for nearly 70 years. 

There are less than a handful of known breeding areas off the east coast of China and 

fewer than 50 individuals are currently known of. 

COLUMBIDAE 

Rock Pigeon (R Dove, Feral P) Columba livia: Only noted on Buru and Ambon. 

White-throated Pigeon Columba vitiensis: On Buru, a pair over Air Mandidi and one along the 

Wamlana Logging Road (halmaheira). 


Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Small numbers were seen in open habitats on Java (Jakarta 

airport), Buru and Seram. 

Brown Cuckoo-dove (Slender-billed C-d) Macropygia amboinensis: Common on Buru, Ambon and 

Seram (nominate), and somewhat less so on the Kai Is (keyensis). It is quite likely that the 

current species will be split up in future. 

Barred-necked Cuckoo-dove (Dusky C-d) Macropygia magna: Regular observations of this Wallacean 

endemic on Yamdena (timorlaoensis), with its very distinctive and far-carrying ‘wolfwhistle’ 

call. 

Emerald Dove (Green-winged Pigeon) Chalcophaps indica: Two seen and two heard on Ambon. 

Green-winged Pigeon Chalcophaps longirostris: Frequently seen on Yamdena. 

Barred Dove (Timor Zebra Dove) Geopelia maugei: A few observations of this Wallacean endemic 

on Yamdena and on Kai Kecil. 

Buru Green Pigeon Treron aromatica: A male of this scarce Buru endemic was seen close to our first 

forest camp on Buru. Part of the splitting-up of the former Pompadour Green Pigeon T. 

pompadora. 

Wallace’s Fruit-dove Ptilinopus wallacii: Good numbers of this extremely attractive dove on 

Yamdena. 

Superb Fruit-dove Ptilinopus superbus: Small numbers of this beautiful fruit-dove on Buru, Ambon, 

and Seram. 

Rose-crowned Fruit-dove Ptilinopus regina: The highly distinctive grey-hooded xanthogaster race, 

surely a future split, was common on Yamdena. 

White-bibbed Fruit Dove (White-breasted F D) Ptilinopus rivoli: Another lovely fruit-dove, seen many 

times on Buru and the Kai Is (prassinorrhous). 

Claret-breasted Fruit Dove Ptilinopus viridis: The most frequently encountered Ptilinopus species, on 

Buru, Ambon, and Seram (viridis). 

Buru Imperial Pigeon (Spectacled I P) Ducula perspicillata: Many good views of this distinctive, 

mostly lowland pigeon on Buru. 

Seram Imperial Pigeon Ducula neglecta: Common on Seram and also seen on Buru. Split from the 

previous species. 

Yellow-eyed Imperial Pigeon (Elegant/Blue-tailed I P) Ducula concinna: This attractive large pigeon, 

with its amazingly crow-like call, was common on Yamdena and the Kai Is. 

Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon Ducula rosacea: Fairly good numbers on Yamdena. 

Pied Imperial Pigeon Ducula bicolor: Widely recorded throughout. All ‘bicolor’. 

Buru Mountain-pigeon Gymnophaps mada: Quite common at higher levels along the Wamlana 

Logging Road, Buru, with 50 seen on one day. This and the next species were previously 

lumped in Long-tailed Mountain-pigeon Gymnophaps mada. 

Seram Mountain-pigeon Gymnophaps stalkeri: Common on Seram, with nearly 200 logged. 

PSITTACIDAE 

Blue-streaked Lory Eos reticulata: Still common on Yamdena. 

Moluccan Red Lory Eos bornea: The race cyanonothus was common on Buru, while the nominate 

form was common on Seram, and also seen in small numbers on Kai Besar and Kai Kecil. 

Endemic to the south Moluccas. 

Rainbow Lorikeet Trichoglossus haematodus: A few on Buru and Kai Kecil, but common to very 

common on Seram. The nominate race on Buru and Seram, and endemic nigrogularis on 

Kai. 

Purple-naped Lory Lorius domicella: We were extremely fortunate to see a pair of these seldom seen 

endemics close to the Trans-Seram Highway at KM105. Our local guides Vino and Peter 

picked them up on call, but we had to creep into the forest to track them down. They 

proved very confiding and we spent more than half an hour with them. 


Red-flanked Lorikeet Charmosyna placentis: A captive bird on Kai Besar was photographed and 

released, and we later saw four in flight at Samawi, Kai Kecil. A total of seven were seen 

in lowland parts of Seram, including great scope views of a pair. All were placentis. 

Red-breasted Pygmy-parrot Micropsitta bruijnii: We had lengthy scope views of these amazing birds 

on Buru and Seram. There are actually two races involved, pileata on Seram and 

buruensis on Buru. 

Yellow-capped Pygmy-parrot Micropsitta keiensis: Great scope views at Samawi, Kai Kecil, with at 

least 12 seen in total. We did very well to get perched scope views of both pygmyparrots. 

Salmon-crested Cockatoo (Seram C) Cacatua moluccensis: This large and vocal cockatoo was easily 

found on Seram, and we recorded about 20 birds in all. It is currently classified as 

Vulnerable, and appears to be holding-its-own. Ceisar took us to the Kembali Bebas 

Avian Centre, near Sawai, a rescue centre for parrots and other exotic birds illegally 

trapped for the pet trade, with which he is heavily involved. At Mansuela NP 

headquarters in Masohi, we were shown a well-produced video about the rehabilitation 

and release back into the wild of this flagship species. 

Tanimbar Corella (T Cockatoo) Cacatua goffini: Still common and easily seen on Yamdena, with 

perhaps more than 50 individuals logged. 

Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus: Four males on Yamdena (riedeli), 14 (including both sexes) on the 

Kai Is (polychloros), and about 20 recorded on Seram (roratus). 

Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi: Common and widespread. Subspecies rhodops on Buru, 

Ambon and Seram, timorlaoensis on Yamdena, and keyensis on the Kai Is. 

Buru Racket-tail Prioniturus mada: Common and very easily observed at the right elevation on Buru, 

with around 130 birds logged. A very fetching parrot. 

Great-billed Parrot Tanygnathus megalorhynchos: Generally small numbers on Buru and Seram 

(affinis), with the exception of a flock of 13 heading to their roost-site in the Masohi 

lowlands, south Seram. Helge had a single bird on Yamdena (subaffinis). 

Moluccan King-parrot Alisterus amboinensis: 11 of these highly distinctive parrots on Buru 

(buruensis), and 34 on Seram (amboinensis), including 30 together in the Sawai lowlands 

that Peter showed us. 

CUCULIDAE 

Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus horsfieldi: A single hepatic female was seen in the Masohi Lowlands, 

Seram, and there was another along the Trans-Seram Highway the next day. This Siberian 

breeder winters here. 

Moluccan Cuckoo Cacomantis heinrichi: Commonly heard, and seen well on several occasions on 

Buru, Ambon and Seram. The form in question, aeruginosus, was previously lumped in 

Rusty-breasted Cuckoo C. sepulcralis, but its vocalisations and plumage are pretty much 

the same as Moluccan Cuckoos on Halmahera. The voice of Rusty-breasted Cuckoo is 

very different. 

Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus: Commonly heard on Yamdena and the Kai Is, and seen well 

on Kai Besar and Kai Kecil. The subspecies on Kai is infaustus, but on Yamdena, it is 

unclear. 

Pied Bronze Cuckoo Chrysococcyx crassirostris: Three or four were seen well on Yamdena, as was 

another on Kai Kecil. Bizarrely, some authors lump this species in Little Bronze Cuckoo 

C. minutillus, to which it bears no resemblance whatsoever! 

Common Koel (Asian K) Eudynamys scolopacea: Several were heard calling in the lowlands of 

Seram, where it is said to be resident (orientalis). 

Australian Koel Eudynamys cyanocephala: Several were seen really well, on Buru, Ambon and 

Seram. Heard on the Kai Is. 


Channel-billed Cuckoo Scythrops novaehollandiae: A pair of these unbelievable birds were seen 

well in flight over the Salawai River, north-east of Sawai, Seram. Clearly a resident here. 

CENTROPODIDAE 

Kai Coucal Centropus spilopterus: Recorded on all three main Kai islands, but best seen perched on 

Kai Besar. 

Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: Widely recorded (javanensis). 

STRIGIDAE 

Moluccan Scops-owl Otus magicus: Many heard on Buru, Haruku and Seram (magicus). One 

showed really well in the spotlight on Haruku. 

Kai Boobook Ninox remigialis (H): Unfortunately we only heard this endemic on Kai Kecil, as we just 

ran out of time. A split from Southern Boobook N. novaeseelandiae. 

Hantu Boobook Ninox squamipila: Excellent and prolonged views of one in the Sawai lowlands, 

Seram. Near Wahai we heard 12 in 90 mins., along a 2km stretch of the Trans-Seram 

Highway. Magnus and Ed heard one near our first forest camp on Buru. Split from 

Moluccan Boobook, along with the next species. 

Tanimbar Boobook Ninox forbesi: Commonly heard on Yamdena, with one seen incredibly well, in 

broad daylight, at Lorulun. 

CAPRIMULGIDAE 

Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus: Small numbers on Buru, singles on Yamdena and Kai 

Kecil, and three high up on Seram (c.1100m), were all supposed to be Wallacea-wide 

schlegelii. 

APODIDAE 

Edible-nest Swiftlet Collocalia fuciphaga: Several at Jakarta Airport. 

Uniform Swiftlet Collocalia vanikorensis: Seen on Ambon (where presumably breeding south of 

town), Yamdena and the Kai Is. Subspecies moluccarum throughout. 

Seram Swiftlet Collocalia ceramensis: Common on Buru and Seram. Coates & Bishop have it lumped 

in Moluccan Swiftlet C. infuscatus. 

Glossy Swiftlet (White-bellied S) Collocalia esculenta: Common throughout. 

Linchi Swiftlet (Cave S) Collocalia linchi: A handful of the nominate race at Jakarta Airport. 

White-throated Needletail Hirundapus caudacutus: About 30 at Waslabi, east Buru, about 50 on 

Yamdena and 20 on Kai Besar. The records from the latter two islands may be the first. 

Fork-tailed Swift (Pacific S) Apus pacificus: Singles south of Ambon Town, and at Lorulun, Yamdena. 

The latter record may be the first from the island. 

Little Swift (House S) Apus affinis: Two at Jakarta airport. 

HEMIPROCNIDAE 

Moustached Treeswift Hemiprocne mystacea: This lovely bird was fairly common on Buru, Ambon 

and Seram. 

HALCYONIDAE 

Common Paradise-kingfisher Tanysiptera galatea: One on Buru and two on Seram, including one 

seen really well in the scope near Wahai. 

Lazuli Kingfisher Halcyon lazuli: This highly distinctive close relative of Collared Kingfisher was 

easily seen on Ambon and Seram, with at least 11 birds logged. Endemic to these two 

islands and Haruku. 

Collared Kingfisher Halcyon chloris: Frequently recorded throughout (nominate). 


Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher Halcyon australasia (H): We failed to set eyes on a bird calling from 

tall trees at Lorulun, Yamdena (odites). 

ALCEDINIDAE 

Variable Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx lepidus: Good flight views for some, of one that dipped across the 

road between Sawai and Wahai, north Seram. Judging by the sounds we heard, it was 

feeding a fledged juvenile somewhere. This is the nominate race. 

Azure Kingfisher Alcedo azurea: One flew past us a long the stream at Lorulun, Yamdena. 

Subspecies ruficollaris. 

Little Kingfisher Alcedo pusilla: At least two seen well in flight during our boat ride along the Salawi 

River. Possibly a new record for Seram, though not unexpected. Presumably the 

nominate race. 

CORACIIDAE 

Common Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: A few resident pacificus on Yamdena. 

BUCEROTIDAE 

Blyth’s Hornbill (Papuan H) Aceros plicatus: This magnificent bird was common and easily seen 

throughout the forests of Seram. The nominate race. 

PITTIDAE 

Blue-breasted Pitta (Red-bellied P) Pitta erythrogaster: Frequently heard on Buru (rubrinucha) and the 

Kai Islands. We all had great views of a perched bird at Letfuan, Kai Kecil. Magnus said 

he heard one near the highest point on the Trans-Seram Highway (piroensis), which 

would be much higher than the previously recorded elevation for the species. 

Elegant Pitta Pitta elegans: Commonly heard on Yamdena (vigorsii), and seen well, perched, on 

several occasions. 

HIRUNDINIDAE 

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Relatively large numbers on Buru (over 110 seen), but scarcer on 

Yamdena and Seram. 

Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: Common in coastal areas (javanica). 

MOTACILLIDAE 

Eastern Yellow Wagtail Motacilla tschutschensis: Locally common, being noted on Buru, Ambon and 

Yamdena. Male tschutschensis (simillima of Coates & Bishop is a synonym of this 

subspecies) were certainly identified on the former two islands. Coates & Bishop lump 

this form in Western Yellow Wagtail using the name Yellow Wagtail M. flava for the 

enlarged species. 

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Surprisingly common on Buru and Seram. Also one on Kai Besar, 

and two at Samawi, Kai Kecil. Coates & Bishop do not mention the Kai Is for this species. 

Paddyfield Pipit (Oriental P) Anthus rufulus: Two at Makassar Airport, en route from Jakarta to 

Ambon. 

CAMPEPHAGIDAE 

Wallacean Cuckoo-shrike Coracina personata: A handful of unimodus on Yamdena and two pollens 

on Kai Kecil. These are two closely related, very dark forms that collectively show great 

plumage and vocal differences from ‘typical’ Wallacean 

Buru Cuckoo-shrike Coracina fortis: Four individuals of this endemic were seen at the higher levels 

of Wamlana Logging Road, Buru. 


Moluccan Cuckoo-shrike Coracina atriceps: Small numbers on Seram, including a pair taking turns 

to incubate on a nest high in the fork of a large forest tree. Endemic atriceps. 

White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike Coracina papuensis: Two large, pale cuckoo-shrikes were seen well 

enough in flight on Kai Besar, to narrow them down to this species. Subspecies 

hypoleuca, which is endemic to Kai Besar. 

Kai Cicadabird (K Cuckoo-shrike) Coracina dispar: This monotypic species was only seen by a few 

of us at Lorulun, Yamdena, with a female and male seen separately. 

Pale Cicadabird (Pale-grey Cuckoo-shrike) Coracina ceramensis: Common on Buru, but just a pair 

on Seram. Subspecies ceramensis. Endemic to these two islands, plus Boano and Obi. 

Tanimbar Triller Lalage moesta: Common and conspicuous on Yamdena. 

Varied Triller Lalage leucomela: Common and conspicuous on the Kai Is. 

PYCNONOTIDAE 

Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: About ten at Jakarta airport, and two singles on Ambon. 

Introduced on Ambon, and presumably the nominate race of Java and Bali. 

Buru Golden Bulbul Ixos mysticalis: This recent split was common on Buru. Coates & Bishop lump it 

in Golden Bulbul I. affinis. The generic name Thapsinillas is now used for this and the 

next species. 

Seram Golden Bulbul Ixos affinis: Frequently encountered on Seram and to a lesser extent on Ambon 

(affinis). Coates & Bishop lump this form with the previous species, using the name 

Golden Bulbul I. affinis for the enlarged species. 

DICRURIDAE 

Buru Drongo Dicrurus buruensis: Fairly scarce, with only occasional sightings. Split from Spangled 

Drongo D. bracteatus. 

Seram Drongo Dicrurus amboinensis: By contrast, common and conspicuous on Seram. Also split 

from Spangled Drongo. 

Greater Wallacean Drongo Dicrurus densus: Quite common on the Kai Is (megalornis). Formerly 

united with Lesser Wallacean Drongo D. bimaensis; the name Wallacean Drongo D. 

densus being applied to the enlarged species. 

ORIOLIDAE 

Seram Oriole (Grey-collared O) Oriolus bouroensis: This relatively distinctive endemic oriole was 

seen well on a number of occasions, along the Trans-Seram Highway; with at least five 

logged in all. 

Buru Oriole Oriolus bouroensis: Quite hard to separate from Buru Friarbird, but it eventually proved 

to be quite common along the Wamlana Logging Road, with about 20 seen in all. Part of 

the two-way split of Black-eared Oriole which had the same specific name. Endemic to 

Buru. 

Tanimbar Oriole Oriolus decipiens: Very difficult to separate from Tanimbar Friarbird and only seen 

for certain on a couple of occasions. The other part of the two-way split of Black-eared 

Oriole, and a Tanimbar endemic. 

Green Figbird (Australasian F) Sphecotheres vieilloti: Five were seen associating with giant fig trees at 

Samawi, Kai Kecil. 

CORVIDAE 

Seram Crow (Violaceous C) Corvus violaceus: Frequent sightings of this distinctive bird on Seram. 

Coates & Bishop lump it in Slender-billed Crow C. enca, from which it obviously differs 

very significantly. 


Tanimbar Crow Corvus latirostris: This split from Torresian Crow C. orru was only seen once and 

heard once, at Lorulun, Yamdena. 

TURDIDAE 

Slaty-backed Thrush Zoothera schistacea: Not uncommon on Yamdena, with at least seven seen, 

and many more heard. A Tanimbar endemic. 

Fawn-breasted Thrush Zoothera machiki: This Tanimbar endemic was much more of a difficult 

prospect. After Craig found a singing male, we spent much time trying to get views of at 

least two restless birds along the stream at Kebun 45, Lorulun. 

PARDALOTIDAE 

Rufous-sided Gerygone (R-s Fairy Warbler) Gerygone dorsalis: Common on Yamdena, the nominate 

race. One dependant fledged juvenile was seen. 

SYLVIIDAE 

Tanimbar Bush-warbler Cettia carolinae: One performed brilliantly at Lorulun, Yamdena, and it was 

also commonly heard. Amazingly, the species was only discovered in 1985. 

Buru Bush-warbler Bradypterus disturbans: Two or three showed at the higher levels, and others 

were heard. Split from Chestnut-backed Bush-warbler B. castaneus of Sulawesi, due to its 

distinctive voice. 

Seram Bush-warbler Bradypterus musculus: Excellent views of a pair high up on Seram. Also split 

from Chestnut-backed Bush-warbler. Apart from being vocally distinct, this form is also 

very dark. 

Gray’s Grasshopper-warbler Locustella fasciolata: Small numbers of this east Siberian migrant were 

recorded on Buru, Pulau Pombo (between Ambon and Haruku), Kai Besar, Kai Kecil, and 

Seram. 

Australian Reed-warbler Acrocephalus australis: Scoped singing at Air Mandidi, east Buru. One or 

two others were heard. Formerly lumped in Clamorous Reed-warbler A. stentoreus. The 

race sumbae, which also occurs on Sumba and Timor in the Lesser Sundas 

Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus: The race dumasi of this very widespread ‘species’ was 

seen well on Buru (down to 412m asl.) and Seram. DNA studies have shown that it is not 

remotely related to tailorbirds, and it is currently called Phyllergates cucullatus. 

Arctic Warbler Phylloscopus borealis: Common on Buru, one on Ambon, and two on Seram. 

Probably all borealis. 

Buru Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus everetti: Common at the highest levels that we reached along the 

Wamlana Logging Road. Formerly included in the strange ‘dumping-ground’ that was 

Island Leaf-warbler P. poliocephalus. 

Seram Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus ceramensis: Common along the highest levels of the Trans-Seram 

Highway. Also formerly lumped in Island Leaf-warbler. 

Kai Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus avicola: A pair were seen well with at least two dependant fledged 

young at 425m elevation, above Bukit Indah Mission, Kai Besar. Another split from Island 

Leaf-warbler, and completely different to the forms on Buru and Seram. 

Tawny Grassbird Megalurus timoriensis: About ten seen really well on Yamdena. An undescribed 

form, but presumably similar to east Lesser Sundan timorlaoensis. 

CISTICOLIDAE 

Golden-headed Cisticola (Bright-capped C) Cisticola exilis: The race rustica was seen many times on 

Buru and Ambon. The voice in this region differs considerably from mainland Asian 

forms. 


MUSCICAPIDAE 

Streak-breasted Jungle-flycatcher Rhinomyias addita: This Buru endemic was seen many times at the 

higher levels along the Wamlana Logging Road; at least seven in all. 

Grey-streaked Flycatcher Muscicapa griseisticta: This conspicuous north-east Asian migrant was seen 

on Buru, Ambon, Seram. 

Island Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias panayensis: Endemic harterti was fairly common higher up along 

the Trans-Seram Highway. One recently fledged dependant juvenile was observed. 

Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra (NL): Magnus saw a juvenile of what was believed to 

be this species near the highest point of the Trans-Seram Road (negroides). 

Tanimbar Flycatcher Ficedula riedeli: Common on Yamdena, with several fledged juveniles seen. A 

recent split from Rufous-chested Flycatcher F. dumetoria, and endemic to the Tanimbar 

Is. 

Cinnamon-chested Flycatcher Ficedula buruensis: A male of the nominate race was seen really well 

along the new road branching off the Wamlana Logging Road, Buru. Restricted to the 

south Moluccas. 

MONARCHIDAE 

Island Monarch Monarcha cinerascens: This coastal and small island monarch was seen on Pulau 

Pombo, Kai Kecil, and Pulau Sawai. All were of the nominate subspecies 

White-naped Monarch Monarcha pileatus: This attractive pied monarch was not uncommon on 

Buru (buruensis). Endemic to Halmahera and Buru. 

Loetoe Monarch Monarcha castus: Fairly common on Yamdena. A rather dubious split from the 

previous species. 

Black-bibbed Monarch Monarcha mundus: Just a handful of these rather secretive monarchs on 

Yamdena. Endemic to the Tanimbar Is, Damar, and Babar. 

Spectacled Monarch Monarcha trivirgatus: Occasional. An adult and juvenile on Ambon and then 

small numbers on Seram, where we saw a pair with a just-fledged juvenile. Subspecies 

nigrimentum. 

Black-tipped Monarch Monarcha loricatus: This attractive Buru endemic is restricted to the lowlands, 

and we found about ten in all. 

White-tailed Monarch Monarcha leucurus: This beautiful Kai endemic was tolerably common, with 

ten seen. 

Slaty Flycatcher (Moluccan F, S Monarch) Myiagra galeata: Small numbers on Buru (buruensis), and 

Ambon and Seram (goramensis). A Moluccan endemic. 

Broad-billed Flycatcher (B-b Monarch) Myiagra ruficollis: These odd boat-billed monarchs were 

quite common on Yamdena. The Tanimbar race, fulviventris. 

Shining Flycatcher (Common SF, S Monarch) Myiagra alecto: Just two of these beautiful, but rather 

shy monarchs on Yamdena. Subspecies longirostris, which is strangely disjunct from the 

other form in the north Moluccas. 

RHIPIDURIDAE 

Willie Wagtail Rhipidura leucophrys: This Australasian fantail was seen quite commonly in the 

coastal lowlands of Buru, and less so on Seram, where most were seen on Pulau Sawai. 

Subspecies melaleuca. 

Northern Fantail Rhipidura rufiventris: We saw three highly distinct races of this regionally familiar 

fantail: bouruensis, which was common on Buru (at least 36 logged at various 

elevations), cinerea, which was scarce in the lowlands of Ambon and Seram (only three 

seen in total), and assimilis, which was common on the Kai Is (16 logged). They are 

probably all different species. 


Cinnamon-tailed Fantail Rhipidura fuscorufa: Commonly seen on Yamdena, and endemic to the 

Tanimbar Is and Babar. What was thought to be a nest of this species, with two blue eggs, 

was found along the stream trail at Kebun 45, Lorulun. 

Streak-breasted Fantail (Streaky-b F) Rhipidura dedemi: This neat Seram endemic was common 

along the Trans-Seram Highway, with nearly 40 logged. One adult was seen feeding a 

dependant fledge juvenile. 

Tawny-backed Fantail Rhipidura dedemi: Endemic to the Buru highlands, this one proved much 

harder to track down than the last species, but we eventually found very good numbers 

singing along a new road that branched off the Wamlana Logging Road. 

Long-tailed Fantail Rhipidura opistherythra: An unusual fantail that we saw well inside the forest on 

Yamdena; a Tanimbar endemic. 

Arafura Fantail Rhipidura dryas: Two markedly different races were seen, hamadryas, which was 

common on Yamdena, and squamata, which was surprisingly scarce on the Kai Is, and 

only seen in coastal forest near Oholililur Beach, Kai Kecil (three birds). More future 

splitting on-the-cards. 

PETROICIDAE 

Golden-bellied Flycatcher (G-b Flyrobin, Tanimbar Flyrobin) Microeca hemixantha: This highly 

distinctive species was not uncommon on Yamdena. 

PACHYCEPHALIDAE 

Island Whistler Pachycephala phaionotus: A scarce species, with just three seen in forest near 

Ohoililur Beach, Kai Kecil. A predominantly small island species with a ‘remote’ range. 

Grey-headed Whistler Pachycephala griseiceps: Seen on three occasions, with a total of six birds, on 

Kai Kecil and Kai Besar (rufipennis). Coates & Bishop lump it in Grey Whistler P. simplex. 

Common Golden Whistler (Golden Whistler) Pachycephala pectoralis: Regular scattered sightings, 

but not seen on Kai. Subspecies buruensis on Buru, macrorhyncha on Ambon and Seram, 

and fuscoflava on Yamdena. Some authors split-off a group of races as Banda Sea 

Whistler P. macrorhyncha, including buruensis and macrorhyncha. 

Wallacean Whistler Pachycepala arctitorquis: Fairly common on Yamdena (arctitorquis), with some 

nice males seen. Like a colourless Common Golden Whistler. Coates & Bishop have it 

lumped in White-bellied Whistler P. leucogastra. 

Drab Whistler Pachycephala griseonota: Very common on Buru (examinata), but less so on Seram 

(nominate). 

ARTAMIDAE 

White-breasted Wood-swallow Artamus leucorynchus: Widespread sightings, from all major islands 

(musschenbroeki on Yamdena, but otherwise leucopygialis). 

LANIIDAE 

Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: Two at Jakarta Airport (bentet). 

STURNIDAE 

Tanimbar Starling Aplonis crassa: This unremarkable Tanimbar endemic was tolerably common. 

Moluccan Starling (Island S) Aplonis mysolensis: Common on Buru, Ambon, and Seram (mysolensis). 

Metallic Starling (Shining S) Aplonis metallica: Common on Buru, Ambon, and Seram, as well as the 

Kai Is (metallica). We saw a large breeding colony of conjoined nests on Kai Dullah. 

Long-crested Myna Basilornis corythaix: This amazing endemic was seen well on many occasions 

along the Trans-Seram Highway; about 30 in all. 


MELIPHAGIDAE 

Seram Friarbird Philemon subcorniculatus: A common and distinctive endemic. 

Buru Friarbird (Black-faced F) Philemon moluccensis: One of the commonest Buru endemics. 

Tanimbar Friarbird Philemon plumigenis: A common endemic of the Tanimbar and Kai Is. 

Olive Honeyeater Lichmera argentauris: About 30 of these strangely range-restricted and little-known 

honeyeaters were found on the tiny islet of Pulau Lusaolate, near Sawai, north Seram, 

where they have been known since at least 1912. 

Scaly-breasted Honeyeater (White-tufted H) Lichmera squamata: Common and often heard on 

Yamdena. Endemic to the south-east Moluccas and east Lesser Sundas. 

Seram Honeyeater Lichmera monticola: We had plenty of these montane endemics feeding at 

flowering trees along the Trans-Seram Highway; 23 were logged. 

Drab Honeyeater (Seram/Drab Myzomela) Lichmera blasii: An occasional species at widely varying 

altitudes on Seram (six in all) and one at Ewang Tulahu on Ambon. 

Wakolo Myzomela Myzomela wakoloensis: A stunning Day-Glo red myzomela. Pretty common at 

high levels on Buru (wakoloensis) and Seram (elisabethae); the two forms having different 

songs. Coates & Bishop have it lumped in Scarlet Honeyeater M. sanguinolenta. 

Black-breasted Myzomela (Banda M) Myzomela boiei: Quite scarce but regularly seen on Yamdena. 

Endemic to the Tanimbar Is, Babar, and Banda Is. Coates & Bishop have it lumped in 

Scarlet Honeyeater M. sanguinolenta. 

NECTARINIIDAE 

Black Sunbird Nectarinia aspasia: Regularly seen, except on Yamdena. Subspecies proserpina on 

Buru, aspasioides on Ambon and Seram, and chlorolaema on the Kai Is. 

Olive-backed Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis: A pair at Jakarta airport (ornatus). 

Black-breasted Sunbird Nectarinia clementiae: A very similar spread to Black Sunbird. Subspecies 

buruensis on Buru, clementiae on Ambon and Seram, and keiensis on the Kai Is. Coates & 

Bishop have it lumped in the previous species, but apart from being very distinctive 

morphologically, it has a profoundly different song to Olive-backed. 

DICAEIDAE 

Ashy Flowerpecker Dicaeum vulneratum: One of the commonest birds of the trip, on Buru, Ambon 

and Seram. Monotypic and endemic to the south Moluccas. 

Buru Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrothorax: This endemic was one of the commonest birds on Buru. 

Coates & Bishop lump this form with Flame-breasted Flowerpecker of the northern 

Moluccas, using the same specific name for the enlarged species. 

Mistletoebird Dicaeum hirundinaceum: This Australasian flowerpecker was fairly common on 

Yamdena (fulgidum) and the Kai Is (keiense). 

ZOSTEROPIDAE 

Mountain White-eye Zosterops montanus: This widespread ‘species’ was seen in fairly small 

numbers higher up on Buru (montanus), and more commonly on Seram (obstinatus). 

Ashy-bellied White-eye Zosterops citrinellus: Common on Yamdena (albiventris). 

Great Kai White-eye (Pearl-bellied W-e) Zosterops grayi: 20 on Kai Besar, to which it is restricted. 

Little Kai White-eye (Golden-bellied W-e) Zosterops uropygialis: Common on Kai Kecil, with nearly 

50 logged. 

Seram White-eye Zosterops stalkeri: Uncommon through a wide altitudinal range on Seram; only 

about15 seen in all. Coates & Bishop have it lumped in Black-fronted White-eye Z. 

atrifrons. 

Buru White-eye (Buru Yellow W-e) Zosterops buruensis: This Buru endemic had a similar status to 

the last species, but is more of a lowland bird. 


Ambon White-eye (Ambon Yellow W-e) Zosterops kuehni: Recorded in small numbers at three 

different sites on Ambon; south and north-east of town. Eight seen. 

Rufescent Dark-eye (Bicoloured White-eye) Tephrozosterops stalkeri: One or two were watched on 

many occasions, feeding in a bird-wave by the Trans-Seram Highway. Higher up in the 

forest strata than anticipated, and also in true-forest, rather than secondary growth or 

scrub – as was suggested in the literature. 

Grey-hooded Dark-eye (G-h White-eye) Lophozosterops pinaiae: This endemic was more easily 

located than the previous species, in bird-waves at the highest levels along the Trans- 

Seram Highway. Seen on four separate occasions, singly or paired; five or six birds in all. 

PASSERIDAE 

Tree Sparrow (Eurasian T S) Passer montanus: Fairly common to common around habitation 

throughout (malaccensis). For some reason Coates & Bishop do not list it for Yamdena, 

the Kai Is, or Seram, but we found it typically distributed in all of these places. 

ESTRILDIDAE 

Black-faced Munia Lonchura molucca: Reasonable numbers on Buru and the Kai Is. (vagans). 

Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata: Occasional on Yamdena (nisoria), including a pair nestbuilding. 

Five-coloured Munia Lonchura quinticolor: This striking munia was locally common on Yamdena. A 

Lesser Sundas endemic. 

Chestnut Munia Lonchura atricapilla: Nearly 60 on Buru, and 35 on Ambon. The species does not 

appear to have previously recorded from Buru, so the race is unclear (though presumably 

brunniceps or jagori). On Ambon the race is brunniceps according to Restall (1996), 

Munias and Mannikins. 

MAMMALS 

Common Spotted Cuscus Spilocuscus maculatus: Seen well in the daytime on Kai Kecil, at the 

escarpment forest near Ohoililur Beach. 

Northern Common Cuscus Phalanger orientalis: One was seen well in the daytime on Seram, in the 

Sawai lowlands. 

Brown Rat Rattus norvegicus: A few on Ambon. 

Black-bearded Flying Fox Pteropus melanopogon: Frequently seen on Buru, the Kai Is and Seram. 

According to the best available reference, it is the only flying fox like this on the Kai Is, 

whereas on the other islands, Moluccan Flying Fox P. chrysoproctus is another option. 

Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphin Tursiops aduncus: Relatively small numbers when seawatching 

off Buru, between Ambon and Haruku, and during the crossing from Seram to Ambon. 

REPTILES 

Pacific Blue-tailed Skink Emoia caeruleocauda: This widespread species was photographed on Kai 

Besar. 

Tockay Gecko Gekko gecko: Heard on Yamdena. 

Lined Gecko Gekko vittatus: A couple of these stripe-backed large geckos were photographed on the 

old wooden building at the lower edge of Manusela NP, Seram. 

‘Buru’ Gliding-lizard Draco bourouniensis: One along the Wamlana Logging Road, Buru. A recent 

split in the Draco lineatus complex, which is endemic to Buru, and perhaps also Ambon 

and Seram. 


BUTTERFLIES 

Common Bluebottle (Blue Triangle) Graphium sarpedon: Seen on Buru, Ambon and Seram 

(arthedon), and the Kai Is (choredon). 

Ulysses Swallowtail Papilio ulysses ulysses: The amazing large brilliant blue butterfly that we saw on 

Ambon and Seram. 

Buru Opalescent Birdwing Troides prattorum: A spectacular black and yellow birdwing seen on 

Buru – to which it is endemic. 

Common Green Birdwing Ornithoptera priamus: The green birdwing on the Kai Is. Females are 

mainly black and white. 

Blue Albatross Appias celestina barea: Kai Kecil. 

Psyche Leptosia nina: Kai Kecil. 

Banded Evening Brown Melanitis amabilis kajelana: Wamlana Logging Road, Buru. 

Orange Bush-brown Mycalesis terminus remulia: Common on Seram. 

Palmfly Elymnias agondas melane: Kai Dullah. 

‘Urania’ Owl Taenaris urania hollandi: Buru. 

Red Lacewing Cethosia cydippe: Buru (iphigenia) and Kai Dullah (insulata). 

Cruiser Vindula arsinoe arsinoe: Several on Seram. 

Blue-banded Eggfly Hypolimnas alimena heteromorpha: Kai Kecil. 

Clipper Parthenos sylvia: Kai Kecil (tualensis) and Seram (brunnea). 

Chocolate Argus (C Soldier, Brown S) Junonia hedonia: Kai Kecil (zelima). 

Orange-banded Plane Lexias aeropa helvidius: Buru. 

Striped Tiger (Orange Tiger) Danaus genutia: Yamdena (laratensis). 

Black-and-white Tiger (Swamp T) Danaus affinis tualana: Kai Besar. 

Climena Crow Euploea climena eurypon: Kai Kecil. 

Rice Paper Butterfly (‘Moluccan’ Tree Nymph) Idea idea idea: This beauty was seen on Ambon and 

Seram. 

Tit sp. Hypolycaena sipylus sipylus: Seram. 

Brownie sp. Miletus leos: Seram. 

Pied Blue Pithecops dionisius: While trekking on Buru. 

‘Aru’ Cerulean Jamides aruensis: Kai Kecil. 

Pale Cerulean Jamides cyta madara: Kai Kecil. 

MOTHS 

Uraniid moth sp. Alcides orontes: An amazing blue day-flying moth seen on Buru, that looked like a 

huge swallowtail butterfly. Had me fooled! 

Jade Hawkmoth Daphnis hypothous: Seen while trying to hike up a hill near Lemampoli, Buru. A 

widespread large hawkmoth. 

DRAGONFLIES 

White-backed Wisp (Variable W) Agriocnemis femina: Ambon, Seram etc. 

Pale-spotted Emperor Anax guttatus: This amazingly widespread species was seen on the Kai Is and 

Seram, with several attracted to lights at our Sawai accommodation. 

Blue Dasher Brachydiplax chalybea: Seram. 

Scarlet Dwarf (S Pygmy) Nannophya pygmea: Common on Buru, Ambon and the Kai Is. 

Ramburi Red Parasol (Red Pondhawk) Neurothemis ramburii: Widespread. 

Spotted Grasshawk Neurothemis oligonura: What was thought to be this species was photographed 

on Kai Kecil. 


Slender Skimmer (Variegated Green S) Orthetrum sabina: Recorded throughout. Another species 

with a massive range. 

Common Redbolt Rhodothemis rufa: By the garden pond at Baguala Bay Resort, Ambon. 

Yellow-striped Flutterer (Yellow-barred F) Rhyothemis phyllis: In the garden of Baguala Bay Resort, 

Ambon. 


The inaccessible higher montane forests of 

Buru 

Wamlana Logging Road, Buru; gateway to the 

interior 

The beautiful Wakolo Myzomela (Heidi 

Doman) 

25 Birdquest: Remote Eastern Indonesia 2010 

Endemics that we saw included Buru Rackettail, 

treetop-dwelling Buru Cuckoo-shrikes, 

Buru Golden Bulbul,

the rather subtle Buru Oriole, 

and the little-known Buru Jungle-flycatcher 

On Ambon we found the endemic Ambon 

White-eye, 


and more widespread birds like Ashy 

Flowerpecker, 

and Lazuli Kingfisher 

On Yamdena, Tanimbar endemics included 

the corella

this Tanimbar Boobook that we saw in 

daytime, 

as well as Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon (H. 

Doman), 

and Pied Bronze Cuckoo 


The endemic Great Kai White-eye on Kai 

Besar 

Sunrise over Kai Besar 

A Red-flanked Lorikeet that we released on Kai 

Besar

In highland Seram we saw Seram Mountainpigeon, 

the rare Purple-naped Lory (Keith Riding), 

the weird Moluccan King-parrot (Heidi 

Doman), 

Seram Oriole (Heidi Doman), 

Long-crested Myna, 


and Seram Honeyeater (Heidi Doman)

Pulau Sawai; one of the secluded small islands off north Seram (Heidi Doman) 

Chinese Crested Tern on Pulau Lusaolate, north Seram; the first record of a wintering bird in nearly 

70 years!

INDONESIA (REMOTE EASTERN) REP 10 - Birdquest

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