INDONESIA (REMOTE EASTERN) REP 10 - Birdquest

looked. The only real ‘moment’ was in the middle, when one moved from one bamboo pole to the
other. An ill-advised glance down revealed the gushing river and gave the illusion that one was being
swept away. It was heartening having done this, to see that even the porters were having some
problems – though they were carrying our heavy bags at the time! Once across, we managed to
persuade the porters to carry our bags for a few kilometres more, before we set up another simple
camp on the logging road itself. The nearby mountain stream had a small waterfall and pool, giving
us a welcome shower to wash in! After dark, a couple of our crew-members were dispatched to walk
the 30-40km back along Wamlana Logging Road in order to bring back our vehicles a day early.
We set off early on foot, deciding that we should head for the higher elevation stretches back along
the road as quickly as possible. The days tended to heat-up very quickly on Buru. As we ascended
we started to get a few more birds, with our first of several endemic Streak-breasted Jungle-flycatchers
being a welcome early bonus. Before lunch though, we were met by our vehicles and drove up to
the top of the ridge for lunch, after which we walked to the highest point at just over 1300m. In this
area we notched-up a pair of Buru Cuckoo-shrikes, Buru Leaf-warbler (split from Island), and Wakolo
Myzomela, as well as our first White-bibbed Fruit-doves. At dusk, we drove back down to Waspait
Resort Buru, with its very welcome luxuries.
Basing ourselves at Waspait, we spent the next day and a half birding along the Wamlana Logging
Road as far as KM20 and also along a side-road that was being newly constructed. Buru Bushwarbler
was seen better, and we had many singing Tawny-backed Fantails, another upland endemic,
along the new road. A singing male Cinnamon-chested Flycatcher was also seen well at the latter
location. Other sightings during these last days included plenty of Buru Mountain-pigeons, large
numbers of Buru Racket-tails, more Buru Cuckoo-shrikes, numerous Pale Cicadabird, and more Buru
Leaf-warblers, Streak-breasted Jungle-flycatchers, Wakolo Myzomelas and Buru White-eyes.
Unfortunately, our plans to spend some time in the lowland forests near Bara, to the west of Waspait
were cut short due to hiccup in the Ambon ferry departure programme, which meant that we were
forced to leave two days earlier than planned. Before catching the ferry we tried seawatching from
the coast north of Namlea, but only managed a couple of very distant Bulwer’s Petrels.
Ever resourceful, we used the additional time on Ambon to look at as many sites as possible. Three
different forest patches were visited, and we found the endemic Ambon White-eye at all of them.
They were even tame enough to get a few photos. Other nice birds included Variable Goshawk, a
surprisingly responsive pair of calling Rufous-tailed Bush-hens, Brown Cuckoo-dove, Emerald Dove,
Superb and Claret-breasted Fruit-doves, Seram Imperial Pigeon (split from Buru), Australian Koel,
Uniform Swiftlet, Lazuli Kingfishers, Seram Golden Bulbul (another split from Southern Golden),
Spectacled Monarch, Slaty Flycatcher, the very distinctive local form of Northern Fantail, Common
Golden Whistler, Drab Honeyeater, and many Ashy Flowerpeckers. Very early on one morning, we
were up at 0230 and speeding across the sea to the neighbouring island of Haruku. Here, at Kailolo,
we visited perhaps the largest Moluccan Scrubfowl breeding area in the world. The birds fly down at
night from the surrounding hills (even from south Seram apparently) to lay their eggs in sandy
openings amongst the coastal vegetation – and the adjacent graveyard! The eggs are incubated by the
warmth of the sun and from there, the fully independent young hatch. Thankfully, it was a full moon
and we found at least 30 birds – though there were clearly many more. Many of the eggs are dug up
by local people for food, but the colony seemed to be well-managed. Before it got light, we were also
fortunate enough to get great spotlight views of Moluccan Scops-owl.
On the way back to Ambon, we stopped to bird Pulau Pombo, a tiny and seldom visited coralline
island. In the forest were a handful of Island Monarchs, and some Gray’s Grasshopper-warblers.
4 Birdquest: Remote Eastern Indonesia 2010