Download Full Tour Report 1202kb - Birdquest

LEADER: MATT DENTON 

THE MANU 

23 JULY – 13 AUGUST 2011 

TOUR REPORT 

The 2011 tour was once again very enjoyable trip with a long list of avian and mammal highlights. A 

chilly friaje hit the Manu lowlands during our visit but thankfully it did not deter too much from our 

birding and the cooler temperatures allowed us to spend full days in the field. Our total list of 666 

bird species included some very lucky finds including a trio of Ornate Tinamou in the highlands; 

both White-throated Tinamou and Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail on night-roosts during our night 

walks; a Black-and-chestnut Eagle fly-by while having lunch at Acjanaco; an adult Ornate Hawk- 

Eagle perched low above the trail; the endemic Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch at a new site; 

Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan spotted on an exposed perch; having 14 Military Macaws fly past as 

we watched a Lanceolated Monklet through the scope; a pair of deafening Blackish Rails seen pointblank; 

an Amazonian Antpitta standing stock-still for all to see; two separate sightings of Long-tailed 

Potoo, and much more. We also did quite well with the specialty bamboo birds of the area seeing 

Rufous-breasted Piculet, Peruvian Recurvebill, Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaner, Ihering’s Antwren, 

Long-crested Pygmy-Tyrant, White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant and others. More highlights included 

Bartlett’s and Cinereous Tinamous, Pale-winged Trumpeter, Agami Heron, Yungas Pygmy-Owl, 

White-browed Hermit, Peruvian Piedtail, Rufous-crested and Festive Coquettes, Black-capped (Rock) 

Parakeet at a forest clay-lick, Banded Antbird, Black-spotted Bare-eye, Black-backed Tody-Flycatcher, 

Hazel-fronted Pygmy-Tyrant (a Birdquest lifer), Unadorned Flycatcher, and Semicollared and Blackstreaked 

Puffbirds. There was the spectacle of the parrot and macaw clay licks including the Blueheaded 

Macaw lick; fabulous nightbirds such as Swallow-tailed and Lyre-tailed Nightjars as well as 

Ocellated Poorwill; Round-tailed Manakins at their lek; a furtive Musician Wren showing to all while 

responding with its incredible song; two duelling Bearded Mountaineers over a flower patch; a Pointtailed 

Palmcreeper trying to claim his place as the best-ever; and the family of Inca Wrens that made 

our visit to Machu Picchu so perfect. Mammal highlights included South American Coati, a large 

herd of White-lipped Peccaries, Common Woolly-Monkey, Peruvian Spider Monkey, Kinkajou and 

even a Jaguarundi for some. 

The Manu is a classic Neotropical destination featuring some of the continent’s best known birding 

lodges. These lodges make travel in this wilderness area a quite enjoyable adventure into the world’s 

most diverse rainforest accessible to birders. The level of comfort on this tour often comes as a 

surprise to participants as they sit back in a comfortable seat under the shaded roof of our longboat 

1 Birdquest: The Manu 20011

watching the rainforest pass by. Some of our lodges featured generator-powered electricity but we 

also enjoyed many candlelight meals of tasty Peruvian cuisine, together with pisco sours and cold 

beer to add to the camaraderie of being in such a special place. Breakfast at the macaw clay-lick, 

catamarans rides on oxbow lakes, amazingly built canopy platforms, and well-maintained trails are 

all part of the Manu experience. Many of the forest birds are quite shy but surprises are always 

around every corner. Manu’s altitudinal transect ranging from the arid highlands down to the steamy 

lowlands around Puerto Maldonado ensured a steady procession of new birds for us as we explored 

the wonders of Peru’s department of Madre de Dios (mother of god). 

The tour began with dinner and a good night’s rest in Miraflores before returning to Lima’s new Jorge 

Chavez International for our flight to Cusco the following morning. Our flight over the Andes went 

smoothly and after picking up our bags we stepped out into the blinding light of Cusco and the air 

was thin and we were just soaking it all in. Once we arrived at nearby Huacarpay Lake, we stopped 

at our first patch of wild tobacco flowers that was not so good but we had our first Sharp-winged Teal 

(split from Speckled) and Yellow-billed Pintail as well as a Plumbeous Rail and a White-browed Chat- 

Tyrant perched on the fence. Then the morning revved up a gear when we found a flowering bush 

with a perched Bearded Mountaineer. Suddenly there were two male mountaineers in a mid-aerial 

clash and perching well enough for us to appreciate their indescribably iridescent beard-like gorgets. 

However, our next spot brought us down to earth with a drawn out battle to see several Rusty-fronted 

Canasteros who would not show at this particular spot. Not to worry as we were soon enjoying them 

dripping from the thorn scrub just around the bend. Here in the arid vegetation we also saw Blackchested 

Buzzard-Eagle, White-crested Elaenia, and Andean Flicker. In the reeds surrounding the lake 

we saw Wren-like Rushbird, Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant, and Yellow-winged Blackbird along with a 

flock of Grassland Yellow-Finches. After our pleasant picnic lunch overlooking the lake we enjoyed 

superb views of a pair of Streak-fronted Thornbirds resting and preening on a low branch. Then 

suddenly a courting pair of Aplomado Falcons appeared overhead to go with our good views of Barefaced 

Ground-Doves, Golden-billed Saltator and Blue-and-yellow Tanager. On and around the lake 

itself there were Andean Lapwings, Andean Gull, Slate-coloured Coots, Puna and Cinnamon Teals, 

Ruddy Duck, White-tufted Grebe and Puna Ibis. Both a Chilean Flamingo and White-cheeked Pintail 

were recorded which are both somewhat uncommon visitors to the lake. Afterwards we stopped in 

briefly at Tipón to have a look for mountain-finches but instead saw lots of Peruvian, Mourning, and 

Ash-breasted Sierra-Finches amidst this splendid Incan site. 

The next morning we left early after breakfast for the highlands taking a different route than usual to 

the Manu road due to road construction. Our journey took us through several Andean towns 

including the famous market town of Pisac. We were going to have to find a new site for the endemic 

Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch as our new route did not pass our usual stake-out. Thankfully our 

first stop in suitable looking habitat yielded a fine result rather quickly with all of us getting a good 

view of the handsome endemic mountain-finch. We continued to work our way up seeing Mountain 

Caracaras, Spot-winged Pigeons, and interesting furnariids such as Slender-billed Miner and Creamwinged 

Cinclodes (split from Bar-winged). However, probably our best sighting was a trio of Ornate 

Tinamous flushed from near the road which provided excellent views. Moving ever closer to Manu, 

we birded a series of isolated inter-Andean valleys where we saw the endemic Creamy-crested 

Spinetail and had our first taste of humid vegetation birds such as Mitred Parakeet and the lovely 

Crimson-mantled Woodpecker as we approached the east slope. Reaching the pass at Acjanaco 

(3560mts), we had lunch at the Sven Ericson monument where we were fortunate to have a Blackand-chestnut 

Eagle pass in close flight for an added bonus. Here we also saw Brown-backed Chat- 

Tyrant before walking the road down through the elfin vegetation. Great Thrush was common and we 

had good views of Hooded and Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers, and Moustached and Blackthroated 

Flowerpiercers. A Puna Thistletail was seen by some of our group and hummers included 

Chestnut-breasted Coronet and Violet-throated Starfrontlet. The most memorable bird of the 

afternoon by far was a very cooperative Yungas Pygmy-Owl which we were able to enjoy at length 


perched near the road. We arrived in the late afternoon at our accommodation at the research station 

of Wayqecha, glad that we did not have to camp as in previous years. 

The next morning we started out pre-dawn with a walk near the station where after a bit of a wait we 

enticed a superb male Swallow-tailed Nightjar to rest on the path for prolonged views. As it got light 

we continued birding along the road where a group of Bolivian (Southern Mountain) Caciques was 

the highlight. After breakfast we continued birding along the station enjoying excellent sightings of 

Long-tailed Sylph, Tyrian Metaltail and Rufous-capped Thornbill. Then we walked down one of the 

station trails where activity was somewhat low due to the hot sun but nevertheless there were some 

quality birds here with Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Black-throated Tody-Tyrant, Rufous-breasted 

Chat-Tyrant, White-winged Black-Tyrant, Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, Golden-browed Chat-Tyrant, 

White-collared Jay and Grass-green Tanager. We did our best to see a Red-and-white Antpitta but 

only a few of us managed to get a good view. It was still only mid-morning as we continued birding 

down the road through the upper temperate forest seeing Chestnut-collared and White-collared 

Swifts, Red-crested Cotinga and Barred Fruiteater. This upper section of the Manu road makes for 

very enjoyable birding as you walk along the road through good forest with trees covered in lots of 

epiphytes and luxurious ground cover fed by the numerous streams and waterfalls in an amazing 

landscape. A bit of cloud began to form which was good for mixed flock activity in which we found 

Pearled Treerunner, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Montane Woodcreeper, Sierran Elaenia, White-banded 

and White-throated Tyrannulets, Streak-necked Flycatcher, Superciliaried Hemispingus and 

Spectacled Redstart. We also had good luck with some star birds such as Grey-breasted Mountain- 

Toucan, Marcapata Spinetail, and Short-billed (Yellow-whiskered) Bush-Tanager. We ended up 

spending nearly the entire day concentrating on the upper temperate forest seeing Masked Trogon, 

Trilling Tapaculo, Inca, Handsome and Cinnamon Flycatchers, Mountain Wren, Glossy-black Thrush, 

Blue-capped, Golden-naped and Blue-and-black Tanagers, Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager, 

Capped Conebill, Masked Flowerpiercer, Black-faced Brush-Finch, and Pale-legged Warbler. Other 

good specialty birds seen well included Fulvous Wren and Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager. One 

of the day’s many highlights was watching a quite large (12 or more) family of South American Coati 

dash across the road. Just when we thought they had all crossed many seconds would pass and 

another would dart across as if each were nervously awaiting to go down in the line of fire. As we 

descended to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge we still continued to pick up new species such as Whitecrowned 

Tapaculo, Gould’s Inca (split from Collared), Highland Motmot and Maroon-chested Chat- 

Tyrant, in what resulted in a very bird-filled day. Some of us had our first taste (or two) of Peru’s 

(Lima’s, actually) famous pisco sour tonight… 

The next morning we started out near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge located at 1600 m/5200 ft elevation at 

the nearby hide which previously overlooked a very active lek of displaying Andean Cock-of-the- 

Rocks. It was obvious that last year’s landslide had taken away a huge swathe of forest here forcing 

the fittest of the males to move house. However, at least one male was still revisiting the original lek 

which allowed us to see just how frantic these guys are to attract a female! The lodge has been 

around since the late 90s when the conservation group that runs it converted their research station 

into the present lodge. The Rio Kosñipata runs just below creating a wide valley that stretches for 

many kilometres through which the road was built. As this area lies outside the park, thanks to the 

Cock-of-the-Rock’s conservation group’s land purchase, nearly the entire Rio Kosñipata valley was 

saved from destruction when it was formally made a private reserve. We spent most of the morning 

birding the lodge trails and garden where the feeders and flowers attracted Green Violetear, Booted 

Racket-tail, Violet-fronted Brilliant and Many-spotted Hummingbird. Highlights from our efforts along 

the trails included Olive Flycatcher, a very cooperative Slaty Gnateater and a likewise obliging 

Yungas Manakin. Other highlights from the Rio Kosñipata valley included Plumbeous Pigeon, 

Versicoloured Barbet, Streaked Xenops, Olive-backed and Montane Woodcreepers, Stripe-chested 

Antwren, Grey-mantled Wren, White-capped Dipper and Black-eared Hemispingus. The tanager 

flocks here are always good as long as it is not too sunny and thankfully we had an overcast day 

which made for regular sightings of Paradise, Orange-eared, Blue-necked, Beryl-spangled, Saffron- 


crowned, Golden and Spotted Tanagers. There was also a good sighting of the uncommon Goldeneared 

Tanager. Other more common birds included Green Honeycreeper, Slate-throated Redstart, 

Three-striped Warbler, Dusky-green Oropendola and Orange-bellied Euphonia. After lunch we drove 

up in elevation to the Rocotal area where we saw some new hummers such as Violet-throated 

Starfrontlet and White-bellied Woodstar and enjoyed some overall good activity which included 

Golden-headed Quetzal and Blue-banded Toucanet and a couple of really exciting tyrant flycatchers, 

namely Unadorned Flycatcher and Hazel-fronted Pygmy-Tyrant. There were other good birds this 

afternoon which included Montane Foliage-gleaner, Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, Slaty Tanager, 

Black-goggled Tanager, Yellow-throated Tanager and Olivaceous Siskin. Earlier in the afternoon we 

had stopped to see a day-roosting female Lyre-tailed Nightjar which was perched on a thatch roof 

near the road. Later that evening we waited until dusk for a spectacular show given by a displaying 

male Lyre-tailed Nightjar which proved to be one of the trip highlights. 

This morning we made a pre-dawn attempt for Rufescent Screech-Owl instead finding a roosting pair 

of Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail balanced on a branch over the road. This was a truly spectacular 

find and totally unexpected. Afterwards we birded the lower part of the valley where we encountered 

a totally new suite of birds which included Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Cabanis’s Spinetail, Buff-fronted 

Foliage-gleaner, Red-billed Scythebill, Chestnut-backed Antshrike, Stripe-chested Antwren, Yellowbreasted 

Antwren, Yellow-breasted Warbling-Antbird, Slaty-capped and Lemon-browed Flycatchers, 

the recently-described Cinnamon-faced Tyrannulet, Olive-striped Flycatcher, Two-banded and 

Golden-bellied Warblers, and Blue-naped Chlorophonia. We also had our first look at some of the 

more common lowland birds such as Turkey Vulture, Double-toothed Kite, Roadside Hawk, Squirrel 

Cuckoo, Smooth-billed Ani, Streaked Flycatcher and Tropical Kingbird. Our struggle with Duskycheeked 

Foliage-gleaner was more than compensated for later in the morning with sightings of 14 

Military Macaws, walk-away views of Lanceolated Monklet, Peruvian Piedtail at a lek, a male 

Yellow-crested Tanager, and very good views of Olive Finch. We were back at the lodge for lunch 

adding Wedge-billed and Speckled Hummingbirds to our list as well as Yellow-bellied Seedeater. 

Then in the afternoon we were back up the road this time seeing the much-wanted Bolivian 

Tyrannulet as well as Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager and Deep-blue 

Flowerpiercer. Sadly, our hoped for Crested Quetzal was heard-only too far out of reach below the 

road. 

Saying goodbye to our hosts at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge we continued down the Manu road starting 

out the day with Scaly-naped Parrot and later we saw more Military Macaws. Soon bamboo became 

prominent along the roadsides where we had good luck in seeing Bamboo Antshrike perched up and 

we did our best to see a restless pair of Ornate Antwrens. Then we walked up a very muddy path up 

into the spiny bamboo where those that persevered had good views of Ruddy Foliage-gleaner. A 

Peruvian Recurvebill suddenly called which drew us further in. Although the recurvebill moved off 

all too quickly, we did have good views of the endemic Black-backed Tody-Flycatcher here as well 

as Pale-tailed Barbthroat. We then managed to get the tody-flycatcher to show superbly a second 

time to the entire group. Shortly after it was pretty much too hot for most birds and we had to content 

ourselves with some of the common roadside birds such as Swallow-tailed Kite, Ruddy Pigeon, Bluecrowned 

Trogon, Magpie Tanager and Russet-backed and Crested Oropendolas. We enjoyed a fairly 

birdy lunch despite the heat with a soaring Black Hawk-Eagle, Fork-tailed Palm-Swift, Dark-breasted 

Spinetail (for some), Montane Foliage-gleaner, Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet and Bran-coloured and 

Short-crested Flycatchers. A migrant Large Elaenia was a nice find and a White-browed Hermit put in 

a brief appearance for some. The highlight though was surely the pair of Blackish Rails that showed at 

such close-quarter, standing and calling loudly in the shade of some overhanging vegetation. After 

lunch and our last bit of shopping in Pilcopata, we made our way down to Atalaya over the fairly 

rough road. On this very warm afternoon we had our first introduction to Amazonian birds with the 

likes of Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Blue-headed Parrot, Chestnut-capped Puffbird, White-browed 

Antbird, Flammulated Pygmy-Tyrant (for some), Johannes’s Tody-Tyrant, Yellow-browed Tody- 

Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Grey-capped and Boat-billed Flycatchers, White-winged Becard, Red- 


eyed Vireo and Purplish Jay. Eventually we got to a stream crossing that our very comfortable city bus 

could not manage but thankfully we had pre-arranged to hitch a ride to Atalaya on an empty tour bus 

that picked us up. Our river transfer to Amazonia Lodge went off without a hitch allowing us to walk 

into the lodge clearing just at dusk as the Hoatzins started jumping. After settling in we all enjoyed a 

pisco sour welcome-drink to go with our checklist session under the electric light powered by the 

lodge’s own hydroelectric supply. 

We enjoyed two full days to bird the trails and garden of Amazonía Lodge. The area around the lodge 

is regenerated floodplain forest after the lodge owners decided to convert their tea plantation into a 

birding lodge. This decision based on the advice of visiting ornithologists from the Field Museum of 

Chicago in 1983. On our first morning we started out in the lodge clearing with Cinnamon-throated 

Woodcreeper before venturing out along the jeep track where we had good luck in seeing Greynecked 

Wood-Rail and both Undulated and Cinereous Tinamous; understorey skulkers like 

Amazonian Antpitta, Rusty-belted Tapaculo and Black-faced Antthrush; and a good collection of 

antbirds that included Plain-winged and Bluish-slate Antshrikes, Chestnut-tailed and Goeldi’s. A rain 

shower sent us back to the clearing for a bit but the gardens are always a pleasurable place to enjoy 

from the mahogany veranda watching the hummers visit the feeders and vervain: White-necked 

Jacobin, Black-throated Mango, Rufous-crested Coquette, Amethyst Woodstar (for some), Blue-tailed 

Emerald, Grey-breasted Sabrewing, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Sapphire-spangled Emerald and 

Golden-tailed Sapphire. A Plain-crowned Spinetail was nesting in one of the vervain hedges and had 

built an incredible stick nest. We soon returned to the forest seeing Dark-billed and Little Cuckoos, 

Slender-footed Tyrannulet, Sepia-and Olive-faced Flycatchers, Fiery-capped and Band-tailed 

Manakins, Violaceous Jay and Hauxwell’s Thrush. After lunch some of us managed to stave off siestatime 

drowsiness to watch the Gould’s Jewelfront visiting the feeder. There was always something 

going on with Speckled Chachalaca, Grey-fronted Dove, Pale-legged Hornero, Red-capped Cardinal 

and Masked Crimson and Blue-great Tanagers always making the rounds. In the afternoon a 

Koepcke’s Hermit was certainly the highlight along with Scarlet Macaw, Cobalt-winged Parakeet, 

Little Cuckoo, Black-tailed Trogon, Black-fronted Nunbird, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Little and 

Crimson-crested Woodpeckers, Plain Softtail and Thrush-like Wren. The next day we walked up into 

the hill forest above the lodge where the activity was pretty slow due to the heat but we still came 

away with some nice birds that included Spix’s Guan, Dusky-billed Parrotlet, Pale-tailed Barbthroat, 

Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner, Rufous-tailed Antwren, Round-tailed Manakin, Tawny-crowned 

Greenlet, Half-collared Gnatwren and White-winged Shrike-Tanager. Up on the tower there was very 

little going on but we did have nice views of Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle as well as Scarlet Macaw, 

Grey-rumped Swift, Opal-rumped and Green-and-gold Tanagers and Black-faced Dacnis. The big 

surprise was when a Plum-throated Cotinga flew onto a nearby perch as this is normally a floodplain 

species. That afternoon we took it easy along the Hoatzin clogged oxbow with Band-tailed and 

Silvered Antbirds and the nearby successional forest where we saw Emerald (Black-throated) 

Toucanet, Slender-billed Xenops, Plain-brown, Wedge-billed and Black-banded Woodcreepers, 

Pygmy Antwren, Long-winged and Grey Antwrens and Ringed Antpipit. 

On our last morning we started out with a Southern Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl that was actually 

perched too close and after striking out with a Common Potoo we went in for breakfast. We were 

relieved to connect with a male Fine-barred Piculet after having struggled the previous two days. 

Nearby we were fortunate to come across an antswarm of sorts attended by the handsome Blackspotted 

Bare-Eye and the lovely Spot-backed Antbird. Back at the river we picked up Mottle-backed 

Elaenia and eventually we were all loaded on the boat and headed down the headwaters of the upper 

Rio Madre de Dios seeing numerous Fasciated Tiger-Herons perched above the stony rapids. During 

the boat journey of nearly three hours we saw Cocoi, Little Blue and Capped Herons, Great and 

Snowy Egrets, Blue-and-yellow Macaw, Ringed and Green Kingfishers, Swallow-wing, Drab Water- 

Tyrant, Bare-necked Fruitcrow and White-banded Swallow and White-winged Swallows. A trio of 

King Vultures feeding on carrion allowed our boat to come incredibly close, a sighting that was truly 

remarkable. We also had our first of many Great Black Hawks along the river edge and our second 


individual of Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle for the trip. The dainty Yellow-billed Tern was also a 

regular sight during the journey. Soon the massive Pantiacolla ridge appeared on the horizon and by 

late morning we had arrived at Pantiacolla Lodge where we would overnight. We wasted little time 

in heading out on the trails both before and after lunch and were well rewarded. The major highlight 

of today was our encounter with a family group of Pale-winged Trumpeters. We also enjoyed 

fabulous sightings of Striolated Puffbird, White-cheeked Tody-Flycatcher and Brown-rumped Foliagegleaner. 

Other highlights from today included Great Tinamou, Broad-billed Motmot, Scarlet-hooded 

Barbet, Rufous-headed Woodpecker (alas, only for some), Striated, Manu and White-lined Antbirds, 

and Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant. 

The next morning started off really well with a first-year Long-tailed Potoo on his call perch. After 

breakfast we visited a nearby clay-lick where we saw several Blue-headed Macaws perched in 

addition to a nice assortment of other parrots that included White-eyed Parakeet. An added bonus 

was our first Little Ground-Tyrant of the trip walking along the sandy river bank. Back on the lodge 

trails we all managed to catch up with a male Scarlet-hooded Barbet as only a few of us saw the one 

yesterday. This near-endemic is one of the more spectacular specialities of southeast Peru. It became 

immediately obvious as the morning progressed that a dreaded cold front or friaje had moved into the 

area dropping both the temperatures and the bird activity. These cold fronts move into the lowlands 

of south-eastern Peru when austral winter storms push north from southern South America. The forest 

was much more quiet today but we still managed to have good sightings of Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, 

Lineated Woodpecker, Cabanis’s Spinetail, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Plain-throated Antwren, and 

Large-headed and Dusky-tailed Flatbills. We also had an exciting (and smelly) encounter with a herd 

of at least 50 tooth-clacking White-lipped Peccary including a few large males. Then by late morning 

we continued downstream on the Rio Madre de Dios towards Boca Manu and the Manu River. The 

friaje made for a cold and wet journey today with most of us bundled up in our cold weather gear, 

not exactly the sort of temperatures you expect in the Amazon basin! We were all glad to reach the 

Manu park guard station by mid-afternoon where we signed in before continuing our journey up the 

Manu River to the newly opened Romero Rainforest Lodge inside Manu National Park. Some of the 

river birds seen during the journey included Horned Screamer, Bat Falcon, Pied Lapwing, Collared 

Plover and Black Skimmer. Everyone was delighted with the accommodation particularly with the 

gas-heated hot showers and we were eager to get into the surrounding forest given we were the first 

birders to ever stay there. Most participants had previously looked forward to birding inside the 

fabled Manu National Park for some time. 

Over the next two days we did a fairly thorough survey of the connecting trails between Romero and 

the Limonal ranger station walking around 8 kilometres each day sometimes more. However this 

distance was manageable thanks to the cool weather of the friaje. We made the most of being in the 

field each day by having our cook Aurelio together with our boat crew bring out a fine picnic lunch 

(hot!) to wherever we happened to be in the forest around midday. The forest was a mix of 

regenerated floodplain with some terra firme and bird diversity appeared to be quite high. One of our 

favourite sightings of the whole trip was from the lodge clearing where a male White-flanked 

Antwren sat on a low perch and shivered his wings in time with his song, marvellous! Further afield 

we saw some goodies in the upland bamboo stands which included Rufous-breasted Piculet, Redbilled 

Scythebill, Ihering’s Antwren, Long-crested Pygmy-Tyrant, White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant and 

Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaner. We tried our best to find the newly described Rufous Twistwing but 

despite our efforts it remains unknown from this particular forest. A Razor-billed Curassow was seen 

out on the river bank early one morning as we set off in our boat, and in general we were able to see 

a nice collection of Amazonian birds during our stay at Romero. Highlights included Bartlett’s 

Tinamou seen on more than one occasion, a superb close-perched Ornate Hawk-Eagle (thanks 

Martine!), a Banded Antbird on his understorey song perch, fairly common Casqued Oropendolas, a 

lovely pair of Scale-backed Antbirds, the oddly wonderful Musician Wren and a very cooperative 

Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner. We looked far and wide along the Romero trails for Black-faced 

Cotinga in suitable habitat but had nary a sniff probably due to the friaje. The cold temperatures of 


the friaje seemed to fluctuate from day to day together with the bird activity but the friaje remained in 

place for our entire stay. It was hard to say whether it helped or hurt the bird activity but thankfully 

we had no rain and despite the strange weather we had some wonderful forest birds that also 

included Spix’s Guan, Amazonian Trogon (split from Violaceous), Cream-coloured and Scalybreasted 

Woodpeckers, Purus Jacamar, Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner, Lineated, Jurua (split from 

Elegant), Amazonian Barred and Long-billed Woodcreepers, Dusky-throated and Spot-winged 

Antshrikes, Grey, Black-faced and Plumbeous Antbird, White-bellied Tody-Tyrant, Golden-crowned 

Spadebill, Dusky-tailed Flatbill, Greyish Mourner, Dull-capped Attila, Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin, Purplethroated 

Fruitcrow and Scaly-breasted Wren. We spent quite a bit of time along the forest edges of 

the extensive oxbow lake habitat, which was a nice break from the small understorey birds (black 

birds in black holes for some!). This allowed us to enjoy birds like Blue-throated Piping-Guan, 

Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Limpkin, Wattled Jacana, Pale-vented Pigeon, Laughing Falcon, Rose-fronted 

Parakeet, White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans, Black-capped Donacobius, Turquoise 

Tanager, Yellow-bellied Dacnis and Purple Honeycreeper. Even on our last morning near the lodge 

we continued to see new forest birds and some good ones too: Rufous-capped and Black-faced 

Antthrushes, Chestnut-shouldered Antwren, Zimmer’s Flycatcher, White-crested Spadebill and 

Greater Schiffornis. Then it was time to take another river journey, this time just about an hour 

downriver to sign out at the park’s Limonal ranger station and then drop off our dear friend and cook 

Aurelio as well as our National Park guide Danny at Boca Manu. Then we made a stop en route to 

Manu Wildlife Centre to try for our first Rufous-fronted Antthrush, the only problem being that the 

locals had built a latrine at our stake-out, which had our eyes watering as we tried to see this shy 

bird. Several of us succeeded in seeing the antthrush despite the stench! Arriving at the Manu 

Wildlife Centre dock is always a great feeling. We started off by a brief respite in the wonderful bar to 

enjoy a cold drink of refreshing passion fruit seeing Rufous-breasted and Reddish Hermits visiting the 

hedge as we received our introduction from the devoted lodge manager Julian. The rest of the 

afternoon was spent up on the lodge tower about 35 metres above the ground on a platform built in 

the crown of a giant kapok tree. The view was splendid but the bird activity was very slow. Still, by 

the end of the day we had seen some nice birds which included White-bearded Hermit, Whitechinned 

Sapphire, Long-billed Starthroat, Festive Coquette, Cinereous Mourner and Masked Tityra. 

Manu Wildlife Centre has been declared by several publications to be the premier wildlife and 

birding lodge in the entire Amazon. The lodge chef creates surprisingly good meals despite the 

remote location. Attractions such as the Blanquillo macaw clay lick, oxbow lakes and two canopy 

towers in the surrounding area are in addition to the excellent forest birding around the lodge. All this 

made for a very pleasant five nights stay. We started off by visiting the Blanquillo macaw clay lick on 

the first day where we enjoyed a really good show provided by around 2000 deafening parrots and 

parakeets attending the lick as we enjoyed our pancake breakfast and coffee. The sight and sound of 

a parrot clay lick is an experience every birder should have. The parrots and parakeets consisted 

mostly of Mealy and Yellow-crowned Amazons, Blue-headed and Orange-cheeked Parrots, and 

Cobalt-winged and Tui Parakeets. Usually the macaws take their time in coming down to the lick 

waiting until the parrots leave but instead we had small groups of up to 50 macaws coming down to 

the lick at regular intervals for over an hour until a couple of raptors, Laughing Falcon and Roadside 

Hawk appeared, sending the macaws back into the trees. In addition to the parrot show we had two 

Pale-rumped Swifts in low flight from the enormous hide and passerines included Barred Antshrike, 

Black-billed and Lesser Seed-Finches, and Chestnut-bellied Seedeater. On the boat journey back 

along the Rio Madre de Dios we spotted what surprisingly was our first pair of Orinoco Goose before 

stopping off along the Antthrush trail where some of us again saw the Rufous-fronted Antthrush and 

we all saw Peruvian Recurvebill with several getting a good view of the bill. Another nice find here in 

the bamboo was a pair of Rufous-capped Nunlets. Back at the lodge we had lunch and a siesta before 

exploring the nearby floodplain forest where right away we had a Pavonine Quetzal in the scope for 

all to see. Not a bad start for our first full-day at the lodge. We also had pretty good luck in seeing 

Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner, Long-tailed Woodcreeper, Peruvian Warbling-Antbird and Whitenecked 

Thrush. 


The next day we visited the nearby oxbow lake of Cocha Camungo where the first activity was to 

climb up one of the most impressive canopy towers in all of Amazonia. The tower itself is rigid 

thanks to its cement foundation which is reassuring as you climb 50 metres up into a truly massive 

kapok tree. We spent a couple of hours here watching the forest wake up. Eastern Sirystes, 

Swainson’s Flycatcher and a White-browed Purpletuft perching in our tree were especially nice as 

were our views of Pale-rumped Swift. We were quite surprised when a pair of Orange-backed 

Troupials arrived in our tree crown and proceeded to attack a colony of Yellow-rumped Caciques. 

The colony nests were quite close to our platform so we could see in detail everything that happened 

including the yolks dripping from the nests as the troupials eventually succeeded in breaking the eggs 

of nearly all the nests in the cacique colony much to their dismay. No doubt the alpha-male cacique 

of the colony had to step down from his position in disgrace, some defender he was! By midmorning 

we descended for a ride around the oxbow on the catamaran thanks to the strong paddling of Elias 

and Justino. Short-tailed Hawk and a Grey-headed Kite in low soaring flight were admired; both 

Rufous-sided and Grey-breasted Crakes were seen (“no, not that crake, the other one!”); and oxbow 

specialties such as Pale-eyed Blackbird and Black-billed Seed-Finch showed well. That afternoon we 

walked out to the lodge’s mammal clay lick hoping to see a tapir as well as any nightbirds we could 

find. Our walk featured such terra firme birds as White-fronted Nunbird, Gilded Barbet, Goldencollared 

Toucanet, Pink-throated Becard and Sooty Antbird. Once at the mammal clay lick we settled 

into our individual mosquito net covered mattresses with several of us drifting off to the sounds of the 

rainforest as night descended. The moon was quite bright this evening which usually deters the tapirs 

from venturing into the clay lick so we eventually called it quits and tried instead to see the calling 

Silky-tailed Nightjar. We gave it a good effort; even going off trail in the dark, but the forest 

understorey was impenetrable, preventing us from approaching the nightjar. However, all was not in 

vain as our torch light settled onto a White-throated Tinamou on its night roost! On the way back we 

saw our second Long-tailed Potoo of the tour, and eventually we got our spotlight on a singing male 

Ocellated Poorwill. We were also successful in calling in a Crested Owl to a high perch to conclude 

an overall successful night walk. 

Over the next two days we mostly concentrated on the forest trails at Manu Wildlife Centre. A return 

visit to the canopy tower was again slow with Turquoise, Opal-crowned and Green-and-gold 

Tanagers providing the most entertainment. Meanwhile Gill and Gwen who had opted out shared an 

intimate encounter with a Pale-winged Trumpeter feeding on fallen figs. In the floodplain forest we 

continued to add new birds with Eastern Woodhaunter, White-throated Antbird, Euler’s and Ruddytailed 

Flycatchers and Screaming Piha (finally seen well). We spent most of our last day in the terra 

firme where we had excellent views of Dusky-billed Parrotlet and Black-capped Parakeet visiting the 

mammal lick. Other good birds included Needle-billed Hermit, Great Jacamar, Semicollared 

Puffbird, a superb group of Curl-crested Aracari, Red-stained and Golden-green Woodpeckers, 

Chestnut-winged Hookbill and Blue-backed Manakin (here of the yellow-crowned regina race). One 

of the tour highlights was our visit to Cocha Blanco where we saw an amazing collection of 

waterbirds in only a couple of hours. One moment we shall not soon forget was seeing Agami Heron, 

Sungrebe and Sunbittern all within a span of about 20 minutes! We had good views of lots of other 

birds we had already seen like Limpkin, Horned Screamer, Green Ibis, White-throated and Channelbilled 

Toucans, Red-capped Cardinal, Lesser Kiskadee and others. The afternoon light on the forest 

was superb particularly when perfectly illuminated White-bellied Parrots arched across our view. All 

too quickly our time in Manu drew to a close as we looked forward to the hustle-and-bustle of 

civilization on the morrow. 

With the high price of gold causing a gold rush in Peru, rich local miners flush with cash occupy 

most charter flights out of the Peruvian rainforest these days, not ecotourists. Thankfully our local 

operator had a well-devised transfer planned for us that began with a three hour boat trip downriver 

to the town of Boca Colorado where we transferred to a caravan of 4x4 taxis which took us to the Rio 

Inambari. There a speedboat took us to the other side where an air-conditioned bus was waiting for 


us. The bus’s cold air certainly felt good as we made our way along the new tarmac of the 

Transoceanic highway which now connects Brazil to the Peruvian coast. By mid-afternoon we had 

arrived in Puerto Maldonado where we stopped to bird some gallery forest quickly connecting with a 

pair of White-throated Jacamars. Here we were also glad to see Ash-coloured Cuckoo and Gilded 

Barbet before retreating to the air-conditioned comfort of our Puerto Maldonado hotel. The next 

morning we returned to the gallery forest seeing Scaled Pigeon, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Great 

and Barred Antshrikes, Black-throated Antbird and Buff-breasted Wren. A short drive away on the 

outskirts of town we saw open country birds such as Southern Caracara, White-tailed Kite, Southern 

Lapwing, Dusky-headed Parakeet, Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet and Red-breasted Blackbird. Probably 

the highlight of the morning was our superb views of a really obliging Point-tailed Palmcreeper that 

sat out for ages on a nearby Mauritius palm. The last new bird of the trip from the lowlands was a 

Striped Cuckoo which perched right above our heads blasting his song out. Then it was time for our 

flight out of the jungle with some of us continuing on to Lima for flights home and with the rest of us 

stopping off for a couple of days in the Sacred Valley in order to visit the incomparable Machu 

Picchu. That afternoon we enjoyed a lovely lunch overlooking Cusco’s picturesque town square with 

its old cathedrals and stone streets. A dance procession with marching band was making its way 

energetically around the square no doubt celebrating a particular saint. Then we drove up into the 

highlands above Cusco before descending along the snow-peaked cordillera into the Sacred Valley to 

the lovely traditional town of Ollantaytambo. Once we arrived at our hotel, we had time for a bit of a 

stroll around the gardens with its view of the old Incan fortress overlooking the town. 

After a breakfast of Andean grains, fruit and fresh yogurt we enjoyed a nice start to the day in the 

gardens of our hotel with Bearded Mountaineers, Giant Hummingbird and White-bellied 

Hummingbird. Here was also Rusty Flowerpiercer, Cinereous Conebill, Hooded Siskin and Spotwinged 

Pigeon. Aboard our early train to Aguas Calientes we saw 25 Torrent Ducks during our 

journey through the spectacular Rio Urubamba canyon. This must be one of the great train rides of 

the world as you pass through Quechua speaking farm villages with snowy peaks looming above 

before descending into the humid cloud forest along the Rio Urubamba. Upon arrival we did some 

birding along the river below the ruins seeing Silvery, Saffron-crowned and Blue-necked Tanagers, 

Mottle-cheeked and Sclater’s Tyrannulets, Streaked Xenops and Slate-throated Redstart. Most of the 

group enjoyed an excellent tour of the ruins with our informative local interpretive guide. 

Meanwhile, those of us who had already visited the ruins on a prior visit walked the steep road up to 

the citadel finding Highland Motmot, White-throated Quail-Dove, the endemic Masked Fruiteater, 

Highland Hepatic Tanager and Yellow-olive Flycatcher. Afterwards we all met up for a luxurious 

buffet lunch at the Sanctuary Hotel located at the entry to Machu Picchu. On our return we stopped 

to do some more birding enjoying excellent views of Inca Wren as well as Ashy-headed Tyrannulet, 

Black-streaked Puffbird, Torrent Tyrannulet, Brown-capped Vireo and Fawn-breasted Tanager. Our 

return train ride back to Ollantaytambo went smoothly and of course there was the requisite fashion 

show en route featuring stylish alpaca fibre clothing and trendy runway pop tunes. 

The next morning we took an early flight to Lima where our driver was waiting to escort us to the 

Lomas de Lachay National Reserve located north of the city. We stopped along the way to look for 

House Sparrow which we dipped (the horror), no actually we stopped for Amazilia Hummingbird 

which we had great views of along with Croaking Ground-Dove. At the reserve we had good luck in 

finding Greyish and Thick-billed Miners along with lots of Band-tailed Sierra-Finch and Collared 

Warbling-Finch, but the Cactus Canasteros were obviously breeding and we had to do a fair bit of 

exploring before we managed to get one bird to show to all of us. Other highlights here included a 

perched Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle and the smart-looking Short-tailed Field-Tyrant. Then we 

moved on to a different habitat type where we had good views of several Least Seedsnipes along with 

Coastal Miner. Suddenly it was time to return to Lima to prepare for our flights home as our 

adventure into the wonders of Peru came to a happy end. 


SYSTEMATIC LIST 

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not 

personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). Species recorded by the leader 

only are indicated by the symbol (LO). 

Conservation threat categories are taken from Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International’s 

excellent book on the status of the world’s declining avifauna, and updates on the BirdLife website: 

http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/index.html 

TINAMIDAE 

Great Tinamou Tinamus major: Our first was seen at Pantiacolla Lodge and at Manu Wildlife Centre 

we had at least three other sightings of probably the same bird. One of the more primitive 

bird families, most tinamou species are polyandrous, a female supplying two or more 

males with eggs, who in a reversed role of the sexes, does all of the incubating and 

rearing of the precocial chicks. 

White-throated Tinamou Tinamus guttatus: We made a fantastic find of a bird on its arboreal night 

roost during our night walk to Manu Wildlife Centre’s mammal clay lick. 

Cinereous Tinamou Crypturellus cinereus: At least three birds were seen quite well on the jeep track 

at Amazonía Lodge. 

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui: One was seen by Peter at Cocha Blanco and we had a couple of 

heard-only records from second-growth forests. 

Brown Tinamou Crypturellus obsoletus (H): One distant heard-only record from Cock-of-the-Rock 

Lodge. 

Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus: Seen each day at Amazonía Lodge. 

Black-capped Tinamou Crypturellus atrocapillus (H): An arresting, loud sound at Pantiacolla and 

Amazonía Lodge. Sadly, much easier heard than seen, restricted to sw Amazonia. 

Variegated Tinamou Crypturellus variegatus (H): One individual was heard from the terra firme forest 

of Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Bartlett’s Tinamou Crypturellus bartletti: Our stealthy trail walking paid off with at least three 

sightings of this forest tinamou in the Manu lowlands. Named after Edward Bartlett, an 

English ornithologist who collected birds in the Amazon basin and Peru from 1865-1869. 

Ornate Tinamou Nothoprocta ornata: A very nice bonus was seeing a trio of this species, which is 

actually a typical number for this genus, with a male usually accompanied by two 

females. 

ANHIMIDAE 

Horned Screamer Anhima cornuta: Superb views of this impressive bird at Cocha Blanco where we 

were able to get incredibly close to foraging birds. A species that has decreased over 

large parts of its range due to disturbance and hunting. Screamers are primitive relatives 

of swans, ducks and geese. Their vocalization ranks them amongst the loudest birds in 

the world. 

ANATIDAE 

Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera: A species we don’t usually see this tour and another writein 

from our alternate route through the Cusco highlands. 

Orinoco Goose Neochen jubata: We had excellent views of birds on two separate days along the 

Rio Madre de Dios. Good spotting Martine & François! Another sensitive species that 

only seems to occur in any numbers in protected or very remote areas, and that has 

disappeared from various parts of its former range (e.g. may now be extinct in Argentina). 

Classified as Near-Threatened. 


Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata: Numerous good looks at both sexes in the Manu lowlands. 

Another species which due to hunting pressures has disappeared from many other areas 

in the Neotropics. The genus name refers to Cairo, in the early mistaken belief that this 

Neotropical species came from Egypt. 

Torrent Duck Merganetta armata: One of the great attractions of the train ride to Aguas Calientes en 

route to Machu Picchu. We saw at least 30 birds in the Río Urubamba. 

Sharp-winged Teal Anas oxyptera: Up to 40 were seen at Huacarpay Lake on the first day and small 

numbers were seen at waterholes in the highlands the following day. 

Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica: Our first sighting included about a dozen at Huacarpay Lake. 

White-cheeked Pintail (Bahama P) Anas bahamensis: A vagrant bird was seen at Huacarpay Lake. 

Puna Teal Anas puna: A very handsome highland duck seen at Huacarpay Lake. 

Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera: Just three birds were seen at Huacarpay Lake. 

Andean Duck (A Ruddy-D) Oxyura ferruginea: Up to five birds were seen at the marsh near Lima. 

The Greek roots oxy and ur translate to sharp-tail. 

CRACIDAE 

Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata: This species was most common around Amazonía Lodge 

where their cacophonous symphony was often on fine display. 

Andean Guan Penelope montagnii: A few pairs showed pretty very well in the cloud forest, here of 

the Peruvian race plumosa. 

Spix’s Guan Penelope jacquacu: First seen at Amazonía Lodge, but our later encounters in the forest 

around Romero Lodge were better sightings. Named after Johann Baptist von Spix, the 

German naturalist who discovered the now sadly extinct (in the wild) Spix’s Macaw 

Cyanopsitta spixii. 

Blue-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cumanensis: We had good views from the cocha clearings around 

Romero Lodge and then fairly conspicuous in the lodge clearing of Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Still numerous in the Manu region, this handsome guan suffers in many other areas from 

habitat destruction and hunting, though it is still much better off than some of its 

congeners such as the endangered Black-fronted Piping-Guan. 

Wattled Guan Aburria aburri (H): This shy species was heard out of reach farther upslope each night 

up in Amazonía’s hill forest. 

Razor-billed Curassow Crax tuberosa: Good looks were had of this terrestrial cracid along the shores 

of the Rio Manu just as we set off on our first morning there. Members of this family 

(cracids) of game birds are often the first to disappear when humans begin to colonize a 

wilderness area. 

ODONTOPHORIDAE 

Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail Odontophorus speciosus: Sort of unbelievable if we had not witnessed 

it ourselves! At Cock-of-the Rock Lodge, after striking out on the screech-owl, did some 

random scans with my owling torch, and then ‘hey what is that lump there above the 

road?’ A pair of wood-quail on their night roost! We enjoyed some really nice views of 

two birds. What a great find! 

Starred Wood-Quail Odontophorus stellatus (LO): One eventually showed at Manu Wildlife Centre 

but sadly the bird came out in an unintended direction. 

PODICIPEDIDAE 

White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland: We saw three on Laguna Huacarpay the first day. 

Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus: This seemed like a bumper year for this species on Cocha 

Blanco where we saw at least 15 including families with young. 

PHALACROCORACIDAE 

Neotropic Cormorant (Olivaceous C) Phalacrocorax brasilianus: A common bird seen in the 

lowlands. 


ANHINGIDAE 

Anhinga (American Darter) Anhinga anhinga: A few sightings of this non-buoyant, snake-necked 

bird. 

ARDEIDAE 

Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum: Two sightings near Romero and a third was seen really 

well at Cocha Camungo. Tiger-herons and bitterns are the only ones in the family that 

don’t breed in colonies. 

Fasciated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma fasciatum: A bird of rushing rivers and streams, with over a dozen 

seen in the rocky headwaters of the upper Rio Madre de Dios around Amazonía and 

Pantiacolla. 

Agami Heron Agamia agami: We enjoyed superb studies of a fishing bird successfully spearing a fish 

on the banks of Cocha Blanco. 

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: A single individual was seen at Huacarpay lake 

near Cusco. A cosmopolitan species, here of the American race hoactli. 

Striated Heron Butorides striatus: Regular sightings, especially along lake edges. 

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Three were seen near Cusco and around Puerto Maldonado we saw small 

numbers. The nominate race of this highly successful species apparently invaded South 

America from Africa in the late 19th century, one of the most spectacular examples of 

avian range expansions in historic times. 

Cocoi Heron (White-necked H) Ardea cocoi: Frequently seen on the Manu and Madre de Dios 

rivers. This species is one of the primary predators of young Black Caimans on oxbow 

lakes, although in recent decades humans have been much more detrimental to this 

endangered crocodilian. 

Great Egret (G White E) Ardea alba: Regular sightings along the Manu and Madre de Dios rivers. 

Formerly often separated in the monotypic genus Casmerodius. 

Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus: We had a couple of excellent sightings of this exquisite river 

heron. The buffy wash on the breast is thought to come from the powder-downs. The 

generic name is entirely derived from ancient Greek: pilos = cap, erodios = heron. 

Snowy Egret Egretta thula: The most abundant heron seen on our river journeys. 

Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea: Five were seen during the trip, during the river journeys but also 

one in the highlands at Huacarpay. Formerly often placed in the genus Florida. 

THRESKIORNITHIDAE 

Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi: Numerous in agricultural fields in the sacred valley and at Huacarpay 

Lake. This bird is named after Robert Ridgway, US ornithologist and author of “The Birds 

of North and Middle America”, 1901. 

Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis: Our afternoon at Cocha Blanco produced good views of four 

of these forest ibis. The name ‘cayennensis’ (as well as similar names such as cayana for 

other species) refers to Cayenne or French Guyana, an epithet that in early ornithology 

usually indicated a species of otherwise unknown provenance. 

CICONIIDAE 

Wood Stork Mycteria americana: A total of 5 birds were seen both foraging and in flight during our 

boat journey to Manu Wildlife Centre. 

CATHARTIDAE 

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus: Ever present near human settlements. 

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura: In the Manu lowlands small numbers were seen along the Madre de 

Dios, but this species is seemingly absent or at best rare along the Manu River, 

undoubtedly due to the absence of open terrain required by this species. Small numbers 

were also seen in cleared areas in the foothills and along the coast. 


Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotus: The most common vulture over primary 

rainforest. 

King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa: Flying birds were seen on several occasions, with a total of 17 

seen. Undoubtedly one of the tour highlights was seeing several birds feeding at a carcass 

along the Rio Madre de Dios. Our boat was able to approach incredibly close to these 

bizarre looking creatures, superb! ‘Papa’ is Latin for bishop, and the name refers to the 

immaculate white plumage of the adult. 

ACCIPITRIDAE 

Grey-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis: We had good views of this bird in flight showing its lovely 

underwing pattern well. 

Swallow-tailed Kite (American S-t K) Elanoides forficatus: Small numbers were seen in the foothills 

near Atalaya and Amazonía and several singles were seen in the Manu lowlands. 

White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus: Two different birds were seen perched and in flight in the Puerto 

Maldonado lowlands. 

Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus: A few birds were seen in the lower foothills of the Manu 

road, Amazonía Lodge and the Manu lowlands. Here the cis-Andean (= E of Andes) 

nominate race, which is rich rufous below. 

Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea: Numerous in the Amazonían lowlands and foothills. On one 

occasion we watched a bird come from quite far to snatch away a large airborne insect. 

Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens: Our first near Manu Wildlife Centre allowed us to approach 

quite close. Later during the journey to Boca Colorado we saw at least 4 more. 

Slate-coloured Hawk Leucopternis schistacea: Sadly only glimpsed from the trail at Cocha Camungo 

for an untickable view. 

Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga: A common sight during our boat journeys often perched 

up on driftwood along the Manu and Madre de Dios rivers. 

Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis: One was spotted by Peter at Cocha Blanco. 

Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus: Small numbers were seen at Huacarpay 

Lake. During the post-tour extension we saw two in the Machu Picchu area and had 

some lovely close-ups of a perched adult at Lomas de Lachay. 

Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris: A common driftwood and beach-combing Buteo in the Manu 

lowlands, a place where roads are few and far between. The Transoceanic highway 

which we travelled on to reach Puerto Maldonado is now all but finished, passing 

through Puerto Maldonado, the capital of the department, and also known as the capital 

of biodiversity for the world record species counts of butterflies, dragonflies and other 

organisms found in the surrounding area. Thankfully, the highway avoids the three 

nearby National Parks, which are some of the largest in the world, Manu, Bahuaja- 

Sonene (formerly Tambopata-Candamo) and Madidi (in neighbouring Bolivia). Although 

the highway passes through areas already disturbed by mining, many conservationists 

worry that the highway will eventually lead to side roads, deforestation and colonization 

in neighbouring areas, and the loss of species potentially new to science. 

Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus: A soaring bird over Cocha Camungo featured during our 

catamaran ride. 

Variable Hawk Buteo polyosoma: Three seen at Huacarpay on the first day and a few were also seen 

during the journey over the highlands to Manu. 

Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle Spizastur melanoleucus: A total of three birds seen with good views 

had by all beginning from Amazonía’s tower, and then singles during the boat journeys to 

Pantiacolla (Rio Madre de Dios) and Manu Wildlife Centre (Rio Manu). 

Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus: A calling bird was seen at our lunch stop near Pilcopata; its 

flight; its flight silhouette distinctive. 

Ornate Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus ornatus: Thanks to Martine for spotting a an adult perched in a low 

tree over the trail at Romero! 


Black-and-chestnut Eagle Spizaetus isidori: Our first at Acjanacu gave us a rather nice fly-by during 

our picnic lunch. Lower down in the San Pedro valley we saw a second bird from the bus 

on more than one occasion. 

FALCONIDAE 

Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans: We enjoyed excellent views of a bird perched at the 

edge of Romero’s cocha and later we saw a second at Blanquillo 

Lined Forest-Falcon Micrastur gilvicollis: A calling bird was as difficult as ever. We all saw it pass in 

lightning flight but only Richard managed to see it on its perch. 

Southern Caracara Caracara plancus: A recent invader following deforestation around Puerto 

Maldonado of which we saw several in the pastures. 

Black Caracara Daptrius ater: Over 20 seen mostly during our river and oxbow lake excursions 

including adults (reddish facial skin) and juveniles (yellow facial skin) of this carrioneating 

bird. The genus is derived from Greek and means ‘to devour’. 

Red-throated Caracara Ibycter americanus: We had quite good views in the scope at Amazonía 

Lodge of these incredibly noisy birds. Sadly this species has undergone a massive decline 

in most of Middle America, but fortunately it seems to have decreased relatively little 

across its vast Amazonían range. 

Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus: A total of 12 were seen in the Cusco highlands. 

American Kestrel Falco sparverius: Most birds were seen at Huacarpay Lake and over the inter- 

Andean valleys, but a few birds were also seen along the coast. 

Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis: At least 5 seen and in flight during our Manu and Madre de Dios River 

boat journeys. 

Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis: Two were seen quite well in flight just after our picnic lunch at 

Huacarpay Lake and Richard had two more the following day in the highlands. One was 

also observed in the Cusco highlands during the extension. 

ARAMIDAE 

Limpkin Aramus guarauna: Three birds were seen from the cocha edges around Romero Lodge and 

later at Cocha Blanco we had good views of 5 birds. 

PSOPHIIDAE 

Pale-winged Trumpeter Psophia leucoptera: At Pantiacolla Lodge we had a rather large family group 

of nearly 10 birds out on the path one evening. Later Gwen and Gil had a lovely close 

encounter with birds feeding under the big strangler fig at Manu Wildlife Centre. This 

species is found south of the Amazon River, and west of the Madeira River (a major 

dispersal barrier, the Madre de Dios River is one of its tributaries). Genetic data indicate 

the Gruidae (cranes) to be the sister family to the trumpeters. 

RALLIDAE 

Grey-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea: We all saw this species at Amazonía Lodge and later at 

Cocha Blanco we had amazing views from the catamaran. 

Uniform Crake Amaurolimnas concolor (H): This species was fairly quiet during our visit and was 

only heard briefly in the evenings. 

Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius: At Cocha Camungo we had a most cooperative bird 

come up onto a visible perch above the grass and sing. 

Grey-breasted Crake Laterallus exilis: Several of us managed quite good views at Cocha Camungo 

just before we saw the previous species. A second bird was seen the next day at Cocha 

Blanco but it was difficult. 

Blackish Rail Pardirallus nigricans: We had great luck in seeing a duetting pair of this species at a 

marsh along the lower Manu road. Superb! 

Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus: This highland rail is always quite easy to see which we 

found to be the case at Huacarpay Lake. 


Common Gallinule (C Moorhen) Gallinula galeata: Small numbers were seen at Huacarpay Lake and 

near Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Slate-coloured Coot (Andean C) Fulica ardesiaca: Nearly 100 were seen on Huacarpay Lake. 

HELIORNITHIDAE 

Sungrebe (American Finfoot) Heliornis fulica: At Cocha Blanco a bird was hard to see at first hiding 

in cover but then it came out for wonderful views. The smallest member in the Finfoot 

family, the New World Sungrebe is unique in males having marsupial-like pouches 

underneath the wings in which they can transport the chicks in flight. This adaptation is 

unique among birds. 

EURYPYGIDAE 

Sunbittern Eurypyga helias: At Cocha Blanco we saw this species within moments of seeing Sungrebe 

as well as Agami Heron! We were fortunate that the bird showed us its incredible upper 

wing pattern. This monotypic species is thought to be a distant relative of the Kagu of 

New Caledonia and their relationship is evidence for the former supercontinent of 

Gondwanaland. 

CHARADRIIDAE 

Pied Lapwing (Pied Plover) Vanellus cayanus: We repeatedly admired this handsome species during 

our boat trips. 

Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis: This recent invader is now well-established in the recently 

deforested pasturelands surrounding Puerto Maldonado. 

Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens: We saw up to 12 around Huacarpay Lake and saw another 

10 the following day in the Cusco highlands. 

Collared Plover Charadrius collaris: Regular on sandbars and river edges of the Rio Manu. 

SCOLOPACIDAE 

Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia: Just one seen during our chilly boat journey between 

Pantiacolla and Romero at the start of the friaje. 

Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes: A brief view of one that appeared to be injured at Huacarpay Lake. 

THINOCORIDAE 

Least Seedsnipe Thinocorus rumicivorus: We enjoyed some lovely views of a few birds at Lomas de 

Lachay, including a displaying male, here of the coastal race cuneicauda. Note that 

Thinocorus, derived from Greek, literally means ‘sand lark’. This species breeds here in 

the Lomas, but leaves the area after breeding. 

JACANIDAE 

Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana: Small numbers were seen in the grassy margins of the oxbow lakes 

and in the few wet spots that remained in the otherwise very dry pastures of the Puerto 

Maldonado area. 

LARIDAE 

Andean Gull Chroicocephalus serranus: Up to 10 along the Rio Urubamba and near Huacarpay 

Lake. 

Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus: A few were seen during our drive along the coast on our last day. Also 

called the Southern Black-backed Gull, and a species that has been on the increase 

throughout its range with the expansion of fisheries and agriculture. 

Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris: Frequent sightings in the Manu lowlands, especially along the 

Rio Manu. 


Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex: Nearly 80 of this spectacular tern were seen during the trip, with 

most of them seen on the Rio Manu, here at its natural density, undisturbed by eggcollecting 

settlers. 

RYNCHOPIDAE 

Black Skimmer Rynchops niger: We had many good views of this species in skimming flight over the 

Rio Manu and Madre de Dios. 

COLUMBIDAE 

Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti: Six were seen in the Puerto Maldonado area. 

Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana: Seen during the extension, our first was seen at a petrol 

station en route to Lomas. This species is seasonally fairly common in the green 

herbaceous ground-cover at Lomas de Lachay where we saw at least 20. 

Bare-faced Ground-Dove Metriopelia ceciliae: We all had very nice views at Lake Huacarpay on the 

first day. 

Black-winged Ground-Dove Metriopelia melanoptera (NL): This species was seen by just a few of us 

at Huacarpay on the first day. 

Rock Pigeon (Feral Pigeon, R Dove) Columba livia: A common sight in Cusco and Lima, and birds 

were also seen in Pilcopata and Puerto Maldonado. 

Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa: This handsome pigeon was seen quite well in the light 

woodland of Puerto Maldonado. 

Spot-winged Pigeon Columba maculosa: Up to 8 were seen in the arid highlands en route to the 

Manu cloud forest. During the Machu Picchu extension we saw two more in the 

highlands. 

Band-tailed Pigeon Columba fasciata: Small numbers were seen in the Pillahuata area. 

Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayennensis: Sometimes fairly numerous especially along rivers and 

oxbow lake margins. 

Ruddy Pigeon Columba subvinacea: Our best sighting was a good scope view of one between Cockof-the-Rock 

Lodge and Atalaya. 

Plumbeous Pigeon Columba plumbea: Another one that was common by voice but with several seen 

in the lowlands, and also regularly heard and seen as high up as the Cock-of-the-Rock 

Lodge. 

Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata: Small numbers were seen in Lima and near Huacarpay Lake, but this 

species was particularly numerous in the Lomas de Lachay with over 20 seen. Here the 

white-tipped (tail) race hypoleuca. 

West Peruvian Dove (Pacific D) Zenaida meloda: A common dove in Lima and along the coast. 

Grey-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla: A characteristic forest sound in lowland Amazonía, and several 

were also seen during the trip. 

Sapphire Quail-Dove Geotrygon saphirina (H): One bird was heard, but it was too far for even an 

off-trail effort. 

White-throated Quail-Dove Geotrygon frenata: One was seen fairly well during the Machu Picchu 

extension. 

Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana: Several birds were flushed from lowland forest trails but 

unfortunately we never had this one on the deck. 

PSITTACIDAE 

Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna: Many spectacular views of this huge parrot in the Manu 

lowlands. 

Military Macaw Ara militaris: This year we saw a total of 16 birds in the Manu foothills with a flock 

of a dozen birds being most memorable. Classified as Vulnerable. 

Scarlet Macaw Ara macao: Many great looks at perched and preening pairs, with a very memorable 

sighting of birds in flight from the Amazonía tower. 


Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloroptera: Seen on a daily basis in the Manu lowlands along with the 

other two large macaws. The Tambo Blanquillo ccollpa (Quechua for clay lick) provided 

us with a great show with nearly 30 descending to the clay wall along with the other 

parrots. This drama is repeated daily throughout the long dry season of southeast Peru as 

parrots and macaws are forced to choose from a diminishing supply of desirable seed 

trees, many of the seeds containing toxic defence compounds to prevent such predation. 

Seeds represent the bulk of a parrot’s diet and all psittacids are referred to as seedpredators. 

This species is also called the Green-winged Macaw. 

Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa: Common in the lowlands, and a few pairs frequented the 

clearing at Amazonía Lodge. 

Blue-headed Macaw Propyrrhura couloni: We had superb views of this species perched up near the 

Pantiacolla macaw-clay lick. A near-endemic with a fairly restricted range and an 

unmistakable call. Classified as Endangered. 

Red-bellied Macaw Orthopsittaca manilata: A total of 20 were seen in flight in the Manu lowlands. 

This species is almost totally dependent on the presence of Moriche Palms (Mauritia 

flexuosa). Moriche palm fruit is packed with beta-carotene and in any given Amazonian 

town it is popular either whole or in juices, ice-cream and cakes. 

Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata: First seen in temperate woodland just before we arrived at the 

Acjanacu pass. We also saw birds in flight in the Machu Picchu area. The genera 

Aratinga and Pyrrhura are also referred to as conures. 

White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus: A dozen birds seen at the Pantiacolla ccollpa (claylick) 

was strangely our only sighting. 

Dusky-headed Parakeet Aratinga weddellii: Numerous fly-bys but not until Puerto Maldonado did we 

all have excellent scope studies of perched birds. This widespread species is named after 

Hugh Algernon Weddell, a physician and botanist specializing in South American flora. 

In 1845 during a solitary journey through Peru and Bolivia, he succeeded in his quest to 

find the enigmatic fever bark tree, Cinchona (the source of quinine, an anti-malarial), and 

went on to describe 15 species in the genus. The seeds that he took to Paris were 

germinated and used to establish Cinchona forests in Java and the East Indies. 

Rose-fronted Parakeet (Red-crowned P) Pyrrhura roseifrons: At Cocha Camungo we enjoyed superb 

scope views of perched birds from the canopy platform. 

Black-capped Parakeet (Rock P) Pyrrhura rupicola: The other Manu Pyrrhura seen extremely well at 

close quarter at the mammal ccollpa of Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Dusky-billed Parrotlet Forpus sclateri: We first saw four perched near a cavity up on Amazonía 

Lodge’s hill, and then enjoyed at least 20 at the mammal ccollpa (quechua for clay lick). 

Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera: Numerous and widespread in the Manu lowlands. 

Tui Parakeet Brotogeris sanctithomae: First seen at Romero Lodge, and we later had good looks at 

small numbers of them at Blanquillo ccollpa and the Cocha Camungo platform. 

White-bellied Parrot Pionites leucogaster: Our patience was rewarded at Cocha Blanco where we 

enjoyed some really lovely flight views across the cocha in the golden tropical light of 

late afternoon. The English name caique is also used for this genus of parrots. 

Orange-cheeked Parrot Pionopsitta barrabandi: Small numbers were seen quite well at the 

Blanquillo ccollpa. 

Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus: At least 1000 were present at the Blanquillo ccollpa, making 

for quite the spectacle of sight and sound. 

Yellow-crowned Parrot (Y-c Amazon) Amazona ochrocephala: First seen at the Pantiacolla ccollpa 

but then very common at the Blanquillo ccollpa with nearly 100 birds seen there. This 

species is more common in Moriche flooded palm forests. 

Scaly-naped Parrot (S-n Amazon) Amazona mercenaria: A group of 15 of these large Amazonas were 

seen quite well in flight below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Mealy Parrot (M Amazon) Amazona farinosa: Around 300 were present this year at the Blanquillo 

ccollpa, and otherwise we found them to be fairly common in the Manu lowlands. 


OPISTHOCOMIDAE 

Hoatzin Opisthocomus hoazin: A social nesting bird, we observed groups of breeding birds at 

Amazonía Lodge and later we found them to be common at Cocha Camungo and Cocha 

Blanco. One of the very few birds that almost entirely subsist on a diet of leaves, this odd 

species has some peculiar attributes, including microbial foregut fermentation to convert 

plant cellulose in consumed foliage into simple sugars, and a highly modified skeleton to 

accommodate its large crop. Once thought to be the lost link to the feathered dinosaur 

Archaeopteryx because of the chick’s clawed wings, these claws are now considered a 

recent secondary adaptation to the chicks having to clamber up vegetation if they are 

forced to evacuate the nest due to a threat. The placement of this order is still 

controversial, with the most comprehensive genetic data set to date unable to resolve its 

relationships, there being no evidence for a close relationship to any order within the 

Neoaves. 

CUCULIDAE 

Little Cuckoo Coccycua minuta: Most of us saw the bird at Amazonía Lodge that perched briefly out 

of the thick cocha vegetation. 

Ash-coloured Cuckoo Coccycua cinerea: This austral migrant was very much a surprise sighting on 

the outskirts of Puerto Maldonado. It appears to have been present here for at least a 

week as a group of visiting birders saw it a few days later at the same spot. 

Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana: Common from the lowlands into the Cosñipata valley near Cock-ofthe-Rock 

Lodge. 

Dark-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus melacoryphus: One at Amazonía Lodge was seen along the jeep 

track. 

Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani: This species was most abundant in the deforested plains above 

Pilcopata and around Puerto Maldonado. 

Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia: A very obliging individual was admired at close-range through the 

scope near Puerto Maldonado. The last new lowland bird of the trip! 

STRIGIDAE 

Rufescent Screech-Owl Megascops ingens (H): Strangely, this one refused to respond after initially 

responding during my pre-dawn scouting. 

Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl Megascops watsonii: At Amazonía we were surprised when, upon 

switching on the torch, an individual was perched much closer than we had thought. 

Moments later we saw the same bird again perched in the lower branch of a mango tree. 

Crested Owl Lophostrix cristata: We saw a perched bird high in the canopy at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Band-bellied Owl Pulsatrix melanota (H): One bird was heard near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Mottled Owl Ciccaba virgata (H): One heard-only record pre-dawn from Amazonía Lodge. 

Black-banded Owl Ciccaba huhula (H): We attempted to see a calling bird at Amazonía Lodge but it 

remained distant. 

Rufous-banded Owl Ciccaba albitarsis (H): A very distant heard-only from the Wayquecha station. 

Yungas Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium bolivianum: We had superb views of a close-perched bird on our 

first day in the Manu cloudforest. 

Amazonían Pygmy-Owl (Hardy’s P-O) Glaucidium hardyi: Several were recorded in the Manu 

lowlands of which some of us saw two of the birds in flight but it was not for lack of 

trying as our sore necks were testament. Named after J.W. Hardy, who’s published a 

series of audio tapes on Neotropical bird families. 

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum: A singing bird at Pantiacolla was seen well in 

second-growth forest. 

Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia: Three different birds were seen along the Rio Madre de Dios and 

as many as five birds were seen at Lomas de Lachay. 


NYCTIBIIDAE 

Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis (H): Heard calling one morning pre-dawn at Amazonía. 

Long-tailed Potoo Nyctibius maculosus: Amazingly we saw this much-desired species not once but 

twice. Our first was a first year bird at Pantiacolla Lodge which still roosts on the same 

perch on which it hatched. Our second at Manu Wildlife Centre was more spontaneous 

with a calling bird perched low over the trail one evening. 

Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus (H): A calling bird on the other side of Amazonía’s creek had us 

marching out to see it but somehow it remained hidden! 

CAPRIMULGIDAE 

Rufous-bellied Nighthawk Lurocalis rufiventris: A calling bird swooped low over our heads just at 

dawn one morning at San Pedro (Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge). It pays to be first-in-the-field! 

Sand-coloured Nighthawk Chordeiles rupestris: A nightly spectacle along the Rio Manu, with 

excellent views of both roosting and flying birds. 

Pauraque (Common P) Nyctidromus albicollis: A few birds were seen in the lodge clearings and 

otherwise flushed from their roosts by day. 

Ocellated Poorwill Nyctiphrynus ocellatus: We all had quite good views of a calling male on his 

song perch at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Silky-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus sericocaudatus (LO): At Romero a bird flushed from near the trail 

but a subsequent effort failed to turn it up. Then later during our birding in the Manu 

lowlands, we tried hard to see a calling bird, even going off trail in the dark into what 

proved to be an impenetrable understorey. 

Swallow-tailed Nightjar Uropsalis segmentata: A superb close showing by a male resting on the trail 

had us all enthralled at Wayqecha. 

Lyre-tailed Nightjar Uropsalis lyra: The other spectacular nightjar with which we had great luck, first 

seeing a roosting female by day and then we saw an incredible male make multiple 

display flights over the cloud forest road one evening. 

APODIDAE 

Chestnut-collared Swift Streptoprocne rutila: Frequent encounters along the cloud forest road. Often 

placed in the genus Cypseloides. Both genera form the distinctive subfamily 

Cypseloidinae. They all show a distinct affinity for water and waterfalls as an essential 

component of their nesting/roosting ecology. 

White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris: Regular sightings of this large swift, with a few large 

flocks seen in the foothills. 

Grey-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris: Several groups were seen in the lowlands and foothills. 

Pale-rumped Swift Chaetura egregia: Two were seen along with the previous species during our claylick 

session at Blanquillo and three more were seen the next day from the Cocha 

Camungo tower. 

Fork-tailed Palm-Swift (Neotropical Palm-Swift) Tachornis squamata: Small groups were seen several 

times with our first sighting above Pilcopata along the lower Manu road. A species tied to 

Mauritia palms, formerly placed in the genus Reinarda. The Latin root squam (scale) refers 

to the pale-edged feathers on the back giving a slight scaly appearance. 

TROCHILIDAE 

White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora: Both male and female plumaged birds were seen both in 

clearings and forest at Amazonía and Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Rufous-breasted Hermit (Hairy H) Glaucis hirsuta: Seen once visiting the feeder at Manu Wildlife 

Centre, and then a second showed well on the outskirts of Puerto Maldonado. 

Pale-tailed Barbthroat Threnetes leucurus: First seen along the muddy-Ruddy Foliage-gleaner track 

along the Manu road, and thankfully we all caught up with a second at Amazonía Lodge. 

Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber: First seen at Romero and then very easy to see this year on the 

Stachytarpeta hedge at Manu Wildlife Centre. 


White-browed Hermit Phaethornis stuarti: This speciality was first seen near Pilcopata by Richard 

and the leader with a second seen by others at Amazonía Lodge. 

White-bearded Hermit Phaethornis hispidus: Seen well on several occasions, this species was a 

regular at the Manu Wildlife Centre feeders. 

Koepcke’s Hermit Phaethornis koepckeae: Great views near the clearing at Amazonía Lodge. A 

Peruvian endemic, classified as Near-Threatened, and named after Maria Koepcke, who 

wrote the Dept. of Lima field guide and died in a plane crash along with 92 others in 

1971. One of the sole survivors was her 17-year old daughter brought back in the rescue 

mission. An enthusiastic explorer and ornithological curator for the Lima museum, one of 

Koepcke’s most important discoveries was a new species, endemic to Peru from the 

highland forests of Zarate, the White-cheeked Cotinga, Zaratornis stresemanni. From Peru 

she described three species of birds new to science and 13 new subspecies. In addition to 

the hermit bearing her name, the endemic Selva Cacique, Cacicus koepckeae and the 

Peruvian subspecies of Horned Curassow, Pauxi unicornis koepckeae were named in her 

honour. A bat, Mimon koepckeae and a lizard, Tropidurus occipitalis koepckeorum, are 

also named after her. 

Needle-billed Hermit Phaethornis philippii: One showed briefly to us in hovering flight at Manu 

Wildlife Centre. 

Wedge-billed Hermit Schistes geoffroyi: We eventually all had good views of this species in the 

garden at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Green Violetear Colibri thalassinus: Three were seen in the Manu cloud forest and at least two more 

were seen in the Aguas Calientes area during the extension. 

Sparkling Violetear Colibri coruscans: At least three were regularly visiting the feeders in the cloud 

forest. 

Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis: One showed nicely at Amazonía Lodge. 

Amethyst-throated Sunangel Heliangelus amethysticollis: We had excellent views of this 

hummingbird along the trail below Waqanki station. 

Rufous-crested Coquette Lophornis delattrei: We had brilliant close-ups of female plumaged birds at 

Amazonía, but no sign of the males during our visit. 

Festive Coquette Lophornis chalybeus: This species is now fairly regular visiting the vervain at Manu 

Wildlife Centre where we saw first a female followed the next day with a cracking male. 

Peruvian Piedtail Phlogophilus harterti: In the lower cloud forest we all had excellent views of male 

birds at their lek. 

Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys: Somewhat common around Cock-of-the-Rock 

Lodge, this cloud forest hummingbird is reminiscent of a hermit hummingbird in 

appearance. 

Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi: Several sightings of both male and female birds. Named after 

Rear Admiral Philip Parker King (1791-1856), British marine surveyor, collector and 

traveller in the American tropics. 

Green-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia nuna: We had just one good sighting in the arid scrub around 

Huacarpay Lake. 

Bearded Mountaineer Oreonympha nobilis: A restricted-range, Peruvian endemic who performed 

wonderfully in an area of Nicotiana sp. (‘tree tobacco’). Our sighting of two duelling 

males and their iridescent beards was really special! ‘Restricted-range’ is defined by 

Birdlife International as a species confined to an area of less than 50,000 square 

kilometres. Peru has the highest number of restricted-range species in the Neotropics and 

is second in the world only to Indonesia. 

Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina: Both males and females were seen well foraging in the area of 

Pillahuata, here of the deep blue-tailed race smaragdinicollis. 

Gould’s Inca Coeligena inca: We had just one decent sighting on our second day in the Manu cloud 

forest. 

Violet-throated Starfrontlet Coeligena violifer: In all we saw three of this large hummer in the Manu 

cloud forest. 


Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii: Just one seen on our first day in the upper 

Manu cloud forest. 

Booted Racket-Tail Ocreatus underwoodii: We had brilliant close-ups of this species at Cock-of-the- 

Rock Lodge. Here the buff-booted race annae. 

Gould’s Jewelfront Heliodoxa aurescens: One of the favourite hummers of the trip for a few of us 

who saw it quite well at Amazonía after a patient wait. Named after John Gould, the 

famous English 19th century naturalist. 

Violet-fronted Brilliant Heliodoxa leadbeateri: Excellent studies of both males and females at Cock-ofthe-Rock 

Lodge. 

Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas: At least three seen in the Sacred Valley during the Machu 

Picchu extension. The planet’s largest hummer, here of the race peruviana. 

Long-billed Starthroat Heliomaster longirostris: A fairly regular visitor to the clearing of Manu 


White-bellied Woodstar Chaetocercus mulsant: Three individuals were seen perched during our 

cloud forest birding. 

Amethyst Woodstar Calliphlox amethystina: A male was visiting Amazonía’s vervain flowers but only 

a few of us saw him after a patient wait. 

Blue-tailed Emerald Chlorostilbon mellisugus: Both sexes showed well at Amazonía’s vervain 

flowers. 

Grey-breasted Sabrewing Campylopterus largipennis: A regular visitor to the feeders at Amazonía. 

Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata: We had some nice views of the male’s incredible 

iridescence. 

Many-spotted Hummingbird Taphrospilus hypostictus: We had repeated good views of this species 

at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

White-bellied Hummingbird Amazilia chionogaster: At least three individuals were seen well at our 

Sacred Valley hotel during the extension. 

Green-and-white Hummingbird Amazilia viridicauda: Five individuals of this endemic species were 

seen at Aguas Calientes. 

Amazilia Hummingbird Amazilia amazilia: We had a really good look at this handsome species at 

the start of our Lomas de Lachay outing during the extension. 

Sapphire-spangled Emerald Amazilia lactea: At least three birds were visiting the vervain shrubs at 

Amazonía Lodge and later we saw one at Puerto Maldonado. 

Golden-tailed Sapphire Chrysuronia oenone: The common humming visiting the vervain and 

clearing at Amazonía Lodge. Here the race josephinae, in which males have a green 

throat (not an entirely blue hood like the nominate birds some of you may have seen in 

Ecuador). 

White-chinned Sapphire Hylocharis cyanus: We enjoyed excellent views on several occasions of this 

forest hummer feeding at the vervain of Manu Wildlife Centre. 

TROGONIDAE 

Pavonine Quetzal Pharomachrus pavoninus: On our first day at Manu Wildlife Centre we were 

fortunate to all have great scope views of this species in the near subcanopy. This species 

is the rarest of the New World quetzals. 

Golden-headed Quetzal Pharomachrus auriceps (H): Seemingly scarce this year along the cloud 

forest road with only one heard-only record. 

Crested Quetzal Pharomachrus antisianus (H): Sadly, this quetzal was only heard far below the cloud 

forest road. 

Black-tailed Trogon Trogon melanurus: We saw up to a dozen and more in tall forest in the 

lowlands. 

Amazonian Trogon Trogon ramonianus: Just the one male seen at Romero Lodge, and others heard. 

This form and Gartered Trogon T. caligatus (Central America and northwest South 

America) were until recently lumped in Guianan Trogon T. violaceus. 


Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui: Seen or heard fairly regularly between Amazonía Lodge and 

Manu National Park 

Collared Trogon Trogon collaris: Two birds were seen well at Amazonía Lodge (nominate race). 

Masked Trogon Trogon personatus: We had good luck with this species in the Manu cloud forest 

seeing a total six. 

ALCEDINIDAE 

Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata: At least four of these impressive birds were seen along the Manu 

and Madre de Dios Rivers as well as at Cocha Blanco. 

Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona: This species is usually more numerous than Ringed 

Kingfisher in the Manu lowlands. We totalled up to 10 individuals during the trip. 

Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana: A handful of sightings from the Manu lowlands from both 

rivers and oxbows. 

Green-and-rufous Kingfisher Chloroceryle inda (LO): A bird along the creek at Manu Wildlife Centre 

was sadly a leader-only sighting shooting off its perch. 

MOMOTIDAE 

Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum: Good spotting by Gwen and others at Pantiacolla 

Lodge to find this bird in the subcanopy. 

Rufous Motmot Barypthengus martii (H): Heard on a few occasions in the Manu lowlands. 

Whooping Motmot Momotus ignobilis (H): Somewhat vocal during our stay at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Highland Motmot Momotus aequatorialis: We had great luck in seeing an individual that came down 

to pause on the road! Then during the extension we saw three additional birds during our 

train rides to and from Machu Picchu. A bigger and higher-elevation replacement of the 

previous. 

GALBULIDAE 

Purus Jacamar (Chestnut J) Galbalcyrhynchus purusianus: We first saw this species from one of the 

trails at Romero and we later saw more at Cocha Camungo. It is named after the Purús 

River, a tributary of the Amazon, which together with the Manu River form a large, 

roadless wilderness area home to two uncontacted indigenous groups, termed the 

Mashco and the Curanjeño, both living in voluntary isolation. In 1894 the Peruvian 

rubber baron Carlos Fitzcarrald left the Ucayali-Urubamba watershed and crossed an 

overland isthmus (now known as the Fitzcarrald Arch) into what he thought was the 

Purús River, but which was actually the Manu River. He eventually brought a steam-ship 

(having to disassemble it) from Iquitos over the 10 kilometre long isthmus, terrorizing 

Indians along the Rio Manu as he went, an exploit dramatized, although inaccurately, by 

the German producer Werner Herzog's bizarre film “Fitzcarraldo.” 

White-throated Jacamar Brachygalba albogularis: This localised species remains in the Puerto 

Maldonado area where we enjoyed good views of a pair. 

Bluish-fronted Jacamar Galbula cyanescens: Another elegant member of this showy family, granting 

many good views. 

BUCCONIDAE 

White-necked Puffbird Notharcus hyperrhynchus (H): Our canopy birding was fairly slow and we 

were otherwise able to see calling birds. 

Chestnut-capped Puffbird Bucco macrodactylus: Our first along the Atalaya ridge was seen by most 

of us. Then we all caught up with a very obliging bird over the trail near Manu Wildlife 

Centre. Note that Handbook of the Birds of the World resurrects the monospecific genus 

Argicus for this species (among other distinguishing features, the Chestnut-capped 

Puffbird lacks the ‘bifid’ bill of other species of the subfamily Bucconinae). 

Collared Puffbird Bucco capensis (LO): If it were not for a tree fall, we all might have seen this one 

that unfortunately flushed upon our approach. 


Striolated Puffbird Nystalus striolatus: Coming upon a pair of this much-wanted species on an 

exposed perch was one of the highlights of our Pantiacolla birding. 

Semicollared Puffbird Malacoptila semicincta: It took some perseverance and an awesome spot by 

Martine, but we came away with superb studies of this high-quality understorey puffbird 

at Manu Wildlife Centre. A restricted-range species of south-western Amazonía. 

Lanceolated Monklet Micromonacha lanceolata: Another great stroke of puffbird luck when we got a 

vocal individual in the scope and followed it up with a fly-by of a dozen Military 

Macaws! 

Rufous-capped Nunlet Nonnula ruficapilla: We had excellent views of this unobtrusive little puffbird 

in the bamboo. 

Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons: Near-daily in the Manu lowlands. 

White-fronted Nunbird Monasa morphoeus: A species which replaces the former in terra-firme 

forests. 

Swallow-wing Puffbird (Swallow-winged Puffbird) Chelidoptera tenebrosa: A common sight in 

riverside treetops. The most aberrant puffbird, highly adapted for aerial activity. 

CAPITONIDAE 

Gilded Barbet Capito auratus: We had many good looks at this far-sounding and colourful barbet on 

several occasions in the Manu lowlands. A species that still shows a very complex pattern 

of geographic variation, birds in Manu belonging to the orange-throated race insperatus. 

Lemon-throated Barbet Eubucco richardsoni (H): Somehow we were not able to get one to show for 

us this trip, here the race aurantiicollis. 

Scarlet-hooded Barbet Eubucco tucinkae: A superb near-endemic, showing well in Cecropiadominated 

second growth at Pantiacolla Lodge. 

Versicoloured Barbet Eubucco versicolor: Two sightings of this montane barbet near the Cock-of-the- 

Rock Lodge of both sexes. Here the southernmost, nominate subspecies, in which the 

male shows a bright blue malar and lower throat. 

RAMPHASTIDAE 

Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus: We first had good views of calling birds in the Romero 

area, this is Western Amazonía’s ‘croaker’, perfectly mimicking its larger, ‘yelping’ 

cousin. 

White-throated Toucan (Red-billed T) Ramphastos tucanus: Always impressive, but sometimes (when 

silent) tricky to tell apart from the previous species. 

Black-throated Toucanet Aulacorhynchus atrogularis: After hearing several we eventual had good 

views at Amazonía Lodge. 

Blue-banded Toucanet Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis: A most handsome cloudforest speciality, 

granting excellent scope views . 

Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan Andigena hypoglauca: An opportune spot by Richard allowed us all 

to enjoy a rather good view of a bird perched out above the canopy. Classified as Near- 

Threatened. 

Golden-collared Toucanet Selenidera reinwardtii: A male through the scope perched in close 

proximity was one of the more amazing moments we enjoyed at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Ivory-billed Aracari Pteroglossus azara: We had good views of a party from the Manu Wildlife Centre 

tower and later had a second sighting near Puerto Maldonado. 

Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis: Seen well on a number of occasions, especially from 

the clearing of Amazonía and also in the Manu lowlands. 

Curl-crested Aracari Pteroglossus beauharnaesii: Surely the oddest plumaged of the aracaris with 

their waxy curls, a feature that we could actually see through the scope! 

PICIDAE 

Rufous-breasted Piculet Picumnus rufiventris: A pair of this handsome piculet obliged very well in 

the bamboo of Romero Lodge. 


Fine-barred Piculet (Marcapata P) Picumnus subtilis: We had to wait, but eventually we were 

rewarded with good views of a male at Amazonía Lodge. 

Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus: Oddly just two sightings of this red-bellied 

species, the only representative of the genus in the Amazon basin. 

Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus: One sighting from secondary woodland at Amazonía 

Lodge. 

Red-stained Woodpecker Veniliornis affinis: We enjoyed excellent scope views of a bird 

accompanying a mixed flock at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

White-throated Woodpecker Piculus leucolaemus (H): Heard twice in the Manu lowlands but always 

unresponsive. 

Golden-green Woodpecker Piculus chrysochloros: One individual was seen pretty well in the same 

flock as the previous species at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus: We had a good sighting of a pair from the Cosñipata 

valley near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Colaptes rivolii: We were treated to a really nice view of this 

handsome woodpecker en route to the Acjanacu pass on our second day. 

Spot-breasted Woodpecker (S-b Flicker) Colaptes punctigula: A real crowd-pleaser as soon as we 

stepped off the bus to bird the Puerto Maldonado environs. 

Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola: We first saw two individuals at Laguna Huacarpay and two more 

were seen during the journey to Pillahuata. This woodpecker is restricted to the arid puna 

zone from Northern Peru to Northern Chile and northwest Argentina. Here we saw the 

race puno. 

Scale-breasted Woodpecker (Scaly-b W) Celeus grammicus: Two separate sightings, the first from 

one of our full days at Romero Lodge and we later saw two on the Manu Wildlife Centre 

trails. 

Cream-coloured Woodpecker Celeus flavus: One of the most distinctive of the genus, a male was 

seen well during one of our walks to the Romero Lodge. 

Rufous-headed Woodpecker Celeus spectabilis: At Pantiacolla a bird perched out at the edge of the 

trail giving a few of us brilliant views whilst others did not fare so well. 

Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus: Several sightings from Amazonía, Romero and the Cocha 

Camungo tower. A relative of the Pileated Woodpecker D. pileatus of North America, 

and the Black Woodpecker D. martius in Europe. 

Red-necked Woodpecker Campephilus rubricollis: A single was first seen briefly at Romero but we 

followed this up with a really good sighting at the Antthrush trail on our last day at Manu. 

Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucus: A total of 8 seen. In southeast Peru, most 

often found in riverine forest and floodplain forest bordering oxbow lakes. 

FURNARIIDAE 

Black-tailed Leaftosser (B-t Leafscraper) Sclerurus caudacutus (H): At Manu Wildlife Centre we had a 

bird call from quite close one evening but strangely it gave no response. 

Coastal Miner Geositta peruviana: Excellent views of this endemic in the desert north of Lima. 

Miners are so called because of their habit of nesting in holes dug in the ground (like 

earthcreepers). A bit reminiscent of a small lark and filling a comparable niche. 

Slender-billed Miner Geositta tenuirostris: We had excellent views of a vocalising bird in the Cusco 

highlands en route to Manu. 

Greyish Miner Geositta maritima: At Lomas de Lachay we saw several singles and then a group of at 

least 4 foraging together on the barren, stony slopes. 

Thick-billed Miner Geositta crassirostris: We had very good scope views of this speciality at Lomas 

de Lachay, a restricted-range Peruvian endemic. 

Cream-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes albiventris: Good studies of two birds during our journey 

through the highlands on the second day. The albiventris group of Peru, Bolivia, northern 

Chile and northwest Argentina as well as the albidiventris group (Chestnut-winged 

Cinclodes) of the northern Andes were recently given full species status by the SACC. 


White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis: We had nice studies of this cinclodes near a stream 

during our journey through the Cusco highlands. 

Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus: Great looks at this charismatic bird, here of the race tricolor 

of the nominate group. Horneros build domed, earthen nests resembling primitive clay 

ovens from which the family takes its vernacular name (horno in Spanish). 

Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops: We had good views of two birds at Huacarpay Lake on 

our first day. 

Puna Thistletail Schizoeaca helleri: A bit of a mixed bag with some seeing the bird quite well but 

with many of us struggling to see a skulking bird. A near-endemic that barely creeps into 

Bolivia. 

Azara’s Spinetail Synallaxis azarae: A common cloud forest edge bird which we saw incredibly well 

along the Manu road, here of the race urubambae, named after the river running through 

the Sacred Valley and below Machu Picchu. Birds in this genus are typically skulkers of 

brushy edges, shrubby areas and/or forest understorey. 

Dark-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albigularis: Another skulking spinetail which only around half of us 

were able to see along the lower Manu road. 

Cabanis’s Spinetail Synallaxis cabanisi: Seen on two separate occasions in lowland and foothill 

Guadua bamboo. This species is mostly confined to Peru and western Bolivia. 

Plain-crowned Spinetail Synallaxis gujanensis: Great views of a pair which had a large stick nest in 

the lodge clearing at Amazonía Lodge. Here of the race canipileus, more than one 

species probably being involved. 

Marcapata Spinetail Cranioleuca albicapilla: This attractive endemic was seen extremely well at 

Pillahuata. Unlike Synallaxis spinetails, members of this genus are typically arboreal. 

Creamy-crested Spinetail Cranioleuca albicapilla: A handsome endemic of southern Peru’s arid intermontane 

valleys, seen beautifully above Paucartambo. Classified as Vulnerable. 

Plain Softtail Phacellodomus fusciceps: A pair of this vine-loving furnariid obliged very well at 

Amazonía Lodge. 

Rusty-fronted Canastero Asthenes ottonis: After some vocal exchange with a first pair we had 

brilliant views of a second pair of this restricted-range, Peruvian endemic in the xeric 

scrub around Huacarpay Lake. 

Cactus Canastero Asthenes cactorum: A Peruvian endemic discovered and described by Maria 

Koepcke which saw at Reserva Nacional Lomas de Lachay. 

Streak-fronted Thornbird Phacellodomus striaticeps: This sneaky species performed beautifully for us 

perched incredibly close preening in a small tree for ages at Huacarpay Lake. 

Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger: A most handsome cloudforest denizen, seen a few times 

in mixed flocks at higher elevations. 

Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii: Seen well on two separate occasions in the 


Point-tailed Palmcreeper Berlepschia rikeri: This Moriche palm specialist was another great 

performer sitting out for ages in its favoured palm near Puerto Maldonado. 

Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis: This buffy spectacled furnariid was common in 

cloud forest mixed flocks. 

Peruvian Recurvebill Simoxenops ucayalae: Several in our group had great success with this species 

whilst others did not see the bill. Named after the Ucayali River, one of the major 

tributaries of the Amazon and an important dispersal barrier. Classified as Near- 

Threatened. 

Chestnut-winged Hookbill Ancistrops strigilatus: A calling bird at Manu Wildlife Centre showed well 

with a mixed-flock. 

Eastern Woodhaunter Hyloctistes subulatus: We were pleased to see one individual rather well at 

Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner Philydor ruficaudatum: Two separate birds showed really well during 

our walks to Romero. 


Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner Philydor erythrocercum: Excellent views of two separate birds even 

through the scope during our birding at Romero in Manu National Park. 

Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner Philydor erythropterus: A mixed flock species that we all saw in the 

subcanopy flock on the grid at Manu Wildlife Centre and later seen brilliantly from the 

canopy. 

Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufum: Two were first seen along the lower Manu road and 

later we saw a third in its favoured riverine habitat along the Rio Manu. 

Dusky-cheeked Foliage-gleaner (Bamboo F-g) Anabazenops dorsalis: One along the Manu was 

difficult, never really giving us tickable views. 

Black-billed Treehunter Thripadectes melanorhynchus: Another difficult furnariid we encountered 

along the Manu road giving rather poor perched and flight views. 

Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner Automolus ochrolaemus (H): Several were heard in the Manu 

lowlands. 

Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner Automolus infuscatus: We had good luck in seeing one bird rather 

well at Pantiacolla Lodge. 

Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaner Automolus melanopezus: An uncommon species which we had 

surprisingly good views of at Pantiacolla. 

Ruddy Foliage-gleaner Automolus rubiginosus: A shy bird that was seen fairly well by those who 

persevered in the muddy off-trail effort into the bamboo patch. 

Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner Automolus rufipileatus: A few encounters with birds who were 

unwilling to show well. 

Slender-billed Xenops Xenops tenuirostris: This floodplain species was seen well by all at Amazonía 

Lodge. 

Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans: One showed well near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge and during the 

extension we had good views below Machu Picchu. 

Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa (H): One was seen well at an antswarm at 

Amazonía and a second was seen at Cocha Camungo. 

Long-tailed Woodcreeper Deconychura longicauda: A distinctively shaped Woodcreeper seen twice 

at Manu Wildlife Centre, here the race pallida. Watch for a future split in this one! 

Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus: Several sightings from the Manu lowlands, here 

of the race amazonus. Within this widespread species complex there are thought to be 

five subspecies groups that possibly deserve separate species status. 

Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus: Several sightings from the lowlands of this 

cosmopolitan woodcreeper. 

Long-billed Woodcreeper Nasica longirostris: Some fairly good looks at this species during our first 

walk from Romero Lodge inside Manu National Park. 

Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper Dendrexetastes rufigula: The bird that gets the dawn chorus 

cranking at Amazonía Lodge where we saw them in the garden daily. 

Amazonian Barred-Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes certhia: We all had good views of this species on 

our second day birding on the trail near Romero Rainforest Lodge in Manu National Park. 

Black-banded Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes picumnus: Two excellent sightings at Amazonía Lodge 

including one visiting an antswarm. 

Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus: We first saw this species en route to Romero Lodge 

and a second was seen in the Puerto Maldonado area. 

Juruá Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus juruanus: We had nice close-ups of two different birds whilst 

birding near Romero Rainforest Lodge inside Manu National Park. Four of the largest 

rivers in the Amazon basin start as streams in the low foothills of the Fitzcarrald Arch in 

south-eastern Peru- the Madeira, Ucayali, Juruá and Ucayali. 

Lafresnaye’s Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatoides: We saw this species on a number of 

occasions and heard it even more frequently. 

Olive-backed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus triangularis: We saw three birds during our cloud forest 

birding along the Manu road. 


Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger: As usual this species was more common than the 

previous species in the upper cloud forests. 

Lineated Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes albolineatus: We were fortunate to see our only bird from the 

ground at Romero as this normally canopy loving species was not seen again. 

Red-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus trochilirostris: We had good luck with this species both 

along the Manu road and later on the trails from Romero Lodge. In southern Peru, this 

species is found mostly in bamboo, here likely the race devius. 

THAMNOPHILIDAE 

Fasciated Antshrike Cymbilaimus lineatus (H): One heard-only record from Romero from which we 

didn’t get much of a response. 

Bamboo Antshrike Cymbilaimus sanctaemariae: We had good views of a pair of this specialist from 

the Manu road and a third was seen at Pantiacolla. A southwest Amazonían endemic, it 

was originally described as an obscure subspecies of the previous, until ‘Fasciated 

Antshrikes’ with a totally different song were found in dense bamboo stands in se Peru, 

within walking distance of regularly sounding Fasciated Antshrikes in their typical tree 

fall/vine habitat! 

Great Antshrike Taraba major: A half-dozen sightings of this spectacular antshrike, here of the upper 

Amazonían subspecies melanurus. 

Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus: We first enjoyed this versatile species from the Blanquillo 

hide and later we had good views in second-growth near Puerto Maldonado. 

Chestnut-backed Antshrike Thamnophilus palliatus: A pair at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge made quite an 

impression. 

Plain-winged Antshrike (Black-capped A) Thamnophilus schistaceus: A common species by voice 

and one that we had good views of at Amazonía Lodge. The new name is preferable over 

the old one since over large portions of its range males do not have any black in the 

crown at all, including those in Manu, which are of the nominate race. 

Dusky-throated Antshrike Thamnomanes ardesiacus: Several encounters in mixed understorey flocks 

at Romero, though not as numerous as the next species. Here the nominate race, where 

the male’s black on the throat is often absent, making it visually identical to the next 

species. However voice and female plumage are very distinct. 

Bluish-slate Antshrike Thamnomanes schistogynus: Regular sightings. The notorious leader of the 

roving understorey flocks of the Amazonían lowlands, and a geographic replacement of 

the closely related Cinereous Antshrike, which is the flock leader at e.g. Ecuador’s La 

Selva. 

Spot-winged Antshrike Pygiptila stellaris: The only canopy antshrike in the lowlands, seen on at least 

two occasions at Romero and Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Stipple-throated Antwren Epinecrophylla haematonota (H): At Manu Wildlife Centre we had an aural 

encounter at a known territory but oddly it would not come in. 

Ornate Antwren Epinecrophylla ornata: Up to 3 birds were seen in the bamboo below Cock-of-the- 

Rock Lodge with most of us eventually getting a good view. 

Rufous-tailed Antwren Epinecrophylla erythrura: This attractive antwren was seen rather well in 

mixed flocks up in Amazonía’s hill forest. 

Pygmy Antwren Myrmotherula brachyura: This almost-tailless, subcanopy antwren was first seen 

well at Amazonía and was later seen several times in the Manu lowlands. Differs from the 

following species in its foraging height (Pygmy always lower) and its white throat. 

Sclater’s Antwren Myrmotherula sclateri: We had somewhat distant views of one bird in the canopy 

at Romero. One of several birds named after Philip Sclater, an English zoologist who set 

up the six zoogeographical regions (Palaearctic, Nearctic, etc.) still in use today and 

whose publications include Argentine Ornithology (1888-89). 

Amazonían Streaked-Antwren Myrmotherula multostriata (H): This species was only heard in its 

preferred oxbow lake tangles. Botanists are now learning that the oxbow lake flora is 

actually a very specialized plant community with many species found nowhere else. 


Stripe-chested Antwren Myrmotherula longicauda: A foothill relative of the previous, seen nicely 

below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Plain-throated Antwren Myrmotherula hauxwelli: Small numbers of this distinctive antwren were 

seen and heard. Of all the Amazonian antwrens, the one that lives closest to the ground. 

White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris: At Romero this common member of mixed flocks 

proved to be one of the birds-of-the-trip with a wing-pumping call display that left us all 

very impressed! 

Long-winged Antwren Myrmotherula longipennis: Very responsive and excellent views at Amazonía 

and elsewhere. A species exhibiting a fair bit of geographic variation, as so often more so 

in female than in male plumage. Here the race garbei. 

Ihering’s Antwren Myrmotherula iheringi: We all had excellent views of this localized antwren in the 

Manu lowlands. 

Grey Antwren Myrmotherula menetriesii: We had at least 8 sightings of this drab but common 

antwren of mid-levels. Here the nominate race, in males usually showing a variable black 

throat patch (unlike e.g. Ecuadorian birds which have no black on the throat). 

Banded Antbird (B Antwren) Dichrozona cincta: Another tour highlight was seeing this delicate 

understorey antwren perched up on a log at Romero. 

Yellow-breasted Antwren Herpsilochmus axillaris: Several of us saw a vocalizing bird in a mixed 

flock below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Dot-winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis: One of the prettier antwrens, named after the Rio 

Quijos in Ecuador. Also this one shows a fair amount of geographical variation, birds in 

the Manu region being of the race albicauda. 

Striated Antbird Drymophila devillei: A cooperative and very elegant bamboo denizen. 

Peruvian Warbling-Antbird Hypocnemis peruviana: This was the white-breasted form seen by most 

of us in the forest interior of Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Yellow-breasted Warbling-Antbird Hypocnemis subflava: We saw this yellow-bellied species on 

several occasions in the Manu lowlands, always in bamboo. 

Chestnut-shouldered Antwren Terenura humeralis: Difficult but identifiable canopy views for some 

of us at Romero. 

Yellow-rumped Antwren Terenura sharpei: Another difficult sighting of a canopy bird only just seen 

by a few of us out during siesta time at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Grey Antbird Cercomacra cinerascens: A bird of mid-storey vine tangles, eventually surrendering at 

Romero but only for some. Here the race sclateri, with prominent white wing-covert 

spotting. 

Riparian Antbird Cercomacra fuscicauda (H): We heard this lowland form on the bamboo trail of 

Manu Wildlife Centre; it is often lumped with vocally distinct Andean foothill forms as 

Blackish Antbird C. nigrescens. 

Black Antbird Cercomacra serva (H): Heard in thickets along the Manu road. 

Manu Antbird Cercomacra manu: Good views of this bamboo specialist, a species only recently 

described from this area, but now found locally in bamboo in Bolivia and Brazil. This 

antbird is one of the 6 obligate bamboo users in southeast Peru, where in total there are 

19 species of birds considered to be bamboo-specialists, all varying in their dependence 

on bamboo. Many of these have sister taxa in southeast Brazil which are also bamboo 

specialists, suggesting that this specialization may have evolved when the two areas were 

connected by bamboo during the Miocene. Through satellite imagery we know that in 

southeast Peru, bamboo forests cover more than 180,000 sq. km., an area three times the 

size of Costa Rica. 

White-backed Fire-eye Pyriglena leuconota: We all eventually saw this understorey skulker below 

Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Here of the race marcapatensis, in the maura subspecies group, 

more than one species may be involved. 

White-browed Antbird Myrmoborus leucophrys: We all had great looks at this stunning antbird from 

the Manu road. Their staccato like song was heard daily in the Manu lowlands. 


Black-faced Antbird Myrmoborus myotherinus: This species was very confiding this year, with 

superb looks at a pair in the forests of Manu National Park. Another geographically 

variable species, with more than one species possibly being involved; here the nominate 

race. 

Band-tailed Antbird Hypocnemoides maculicauda: A welcome sighting at Amazonía Lodge of a 

responsive bird. An antbird that rarely strays from humid areas and bodies of water. 

Silvered Antbird Sclateria naevia: A calling male at Amazonía Lodge was difficult to see yet strangely 

was the only sighting this year. This antbird occupies low hanging branches and 

vegetation at oxbow-lake margins and is rarely found away from the edge of water. 

White-lined Antbird Percnostola lophotes: Good looks at both sexes of this restricted-range, 

southeast Peru near-endemic. Until just a few decades ago the female of this species was 

known as the Rufous-crested Antbird P. macrolopha, a nice illustration of how Peruvian 

ornithology emerged out of the dark ages in the seventies and eighties. A SE Peru nearendemic. 

Chestnut-tailed Antbird (Southern Chestnut-tailed A) Myrmeciza hemimelaena: We did fairly well 

with this skulker on our first attempt at Amazonía Lodge. 

Black-throated Antbird Myrmeciza atrothorax: Not until Puerto Maldonado did we all eventually 

catch up with this species thanks to a very cooperative bird in gallery forest. 

Goeldi’s Antbird Myrmeciza goeldii: We had good views of a male at Amazonía Lodge followed by 

two more sightings in the Manu lowlands. In this restricted-range species both song and 

male plumage are quite similar to that of the White-shouldered Antbirds (M. 

melanoceps), which it replaces southward. Females differ dramatically though. 

Plumbeous Antbird Myrmeciza hyperythra: We had little trouble seeing this handsome antbird in the 

Manu lowlands with three pairs seen. 

Sooty Antbird Myrmeciza fortis: Three birds were seen in all at Manu Wildlife Centre with most folks 

having success with the third bird. 

White-throated Antbird Gymnopithys salvini: We had repeated good looks at a pair of this species at 

Manu Wildlife Centre. Named after the 19th century ornithologist, Osbert Salvin of the 

British Museum. 

Spot-backed Antbird Hylophylax naevia: This antbird came rather easily to us near an antswarm at 


Scale-backed Antbird Hylophylax poecilonota: A pair showed brilliantly for us in the understorey of 

Manu National Park. 

Black-spotted Bare-eye Phlegopsis nigromaculata: A regular attendee at army-ant swarms seen rather 

well near Amazonía Lodge. 

FORMICARIIDAE 

Rufous-capped Antthrush Formicarius colma: A very obliging bird at Romero walked across an open 

gap in the forest for lovely views. Genetic data shows that Formicarius and Chamaeza 

antthrushes are in fact more closely related to furnariids and tapaculos than to the 

antbirds! 

Black-faced Antthrush Formicarius analis: The most abundant of the lowland antthrush species with a 

total of 5 birds seen. More than one species may be involved. 

Rufous-fronted Antthrush Formicarius rufifrons: Several of us had quite good views of one of the two 

birds which showed fairly well walking on the forest floor albeit in cover. This Peruvian 

near-endemic is restricted-range species and classified as Near-Threatened. First 

described in 1957 and only discovered in life by the late Ted Parker 25 years later. 

Known only from a handful of localities, this species inhabits Heliconia dominated river 

edges and will usually leave an area once this successional habitat ages. 

Rufous-breasted Antthrush Formicarius rufipectus (H): At least three distant heard encounters in the 


Barred Antthrush Chamaeza mollissima (H): We gave it a good effort climbing far up a treacherous, 

slippery stream to find a calling bird only to have it fall silent. 


GRALLARIIDAE 

Scaled Antpitta Grallaria guatimalensis (H): Always too distant for even a lucky break. Genetic data 

call for Grallaria to be placed in its own family, separate from Formicarius and 

Chamaeza. 

White-throated Antpitta Grallaria albigula (H): One bird was heard-only in rank undergrowth at 

middle elevations in the cloud forest. 

Red-and-white Antpitta Grallaria erythroleuca: A good sighting for Richard and also seen by Michael 

but the rest struggled to see this bird in the bamboo. 

Rufous Antpitta Grallaria rufula (H): We heard one in deep cover which proved impossible to see, 

here the race occabambae. 

Amazonian Antpitta Hylopezus berlepschi: This species eventually showed quite well at Amazonía 

Lodge on our first morning there. We all had to do a bit of body-contorting but amazingly 

the bird just stood there for the longest time which we were very grateful for. Named for 

Hans Hermann Carl Ludwig Von Berlepsch (1850-1915), a German ornithologist who 

sponsored several expeditions to South America. 

Thrush-like Antpitta Myrmothera campanisona (H): At Amazonía Lodge this one was always too far 

or too deep! 

CONOPOPHAGIDAE 

Slaty Gnateater Conopophaga ardesiaca: We saw a pair of this skulker very well in the cloud forest 

understory. 

RHINOCRYPTIDAE 

Rusty-belted Tapaculo Liosceles thoracicus: One individual was fairly obliging for most of us at 


Trilling Tapaculo (Grey T) Scytalopus parvirostris: Most of us had at least some sort of tickable view 

in the upper Manu cloud forest. 

White-crowned Tapaculo (Northern White-crowned T) Scytalopus atratus: One sighting above Cockof-the-Rock 

Lodge which most of us managed to see. Recent analysis has shown that 

Manu birds are more closely allied to the Northern White-crowned rather than Bolivian 

(Southern White-crowned T) birds, S. bolivianus, which occur north only to Puno. 

However, look for the northern birds to be further split once their relationships are better 

understood (a real taxonomic conundrum). 

TYRANNIDAE 

Sclater's Tyrannulet Phyllomyias sclateri: Good views of up to six individuals in the forest below 

Machu Picchu during the extension. 

Ashy-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias cinereiceps: We did quite well with this species towards the 

end of our birding at Aguas Calientes. 

Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet Tyrannulus elatus: A few sightings at Amazonía Lodge and the Manu 

lowlands. 

Forest Elaenia Myiopagis gaimardii: Common by voice, with at least 4 sightings between Romero and 


Large Elaenia Elaenia spectabilis: We all had good views in the scope of this austral migrant at our 

lunch stop en route to Amazonía. 

White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps: Several were seen well at Huacarpay Lake, here either the 

coastal modesta or the more local urubambensis. 

Mottle-backed Elaenia Elaenia gigas: Good views of one bird on the shores of the upper Madre de 

Dios. 

Highland Elaenia Elaenia obscura: One individual of this species was seen in the Manu temperate 

forest where it is a rather uncommon bird. 

Sierran Elaenia Elaenia pallatangae: Fairly common at upper elevations, here the race intensa. 


White-lored Tyrannulet Ornithion inerme: We all had excellent views of this species at Amazonía 

Lodge. 

White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus: Regular with mixed flocks in the temperate 

zone, here of the race taeniopterus. 

White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys: Frequent encounters at higher elevations, of 

the subspecies brunneomarginatus. 

Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea: Two were seen along the Río Urubamba during the 

extension. 

Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina: One in the open country outside of Puerto 

Maldonado was seen near the bus. 

Hazel-fronted Pygmy-Tyrant Pseudotriccus simplex: This difficult bird performed rather well along 

the Manu road. A Birdquest lifer! 

Ringed Antpipit Corythopis torquata: We had a few good sightings of this weird, terrestrial flycatcher 

in the Manu lowlands. 

Bolivian Tyrannulet Zimmerius bolivianus: We had a very good sighting of this restricted-range 

species in the Manu cloud forest. A rather drab cloud forest bird, whose Middle 

American congener is named the Paltry Tyrannulet. A genus named in honour of John 

Zimmer (1889-1957), an American ornithologist who undertook some intrepid 

expeditions into unexplored regions of Peru and on which he based his monumental 

“Studies of Peruvian Birds” (1931). 

Slender-footed Tyrannulet Zimmerius gracilipes: Two good sightings of this forest bird at Amazonía 

Lodge. 

Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant Phylloscartes ophthalmicus: Seen on several different days in the cloud 

forest near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, here of the rather distinct subspecies ottonis. 

Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet Phylloscartes ventralis: We found this species to be fairly common below 

Machu Picchu. 

Cinnamon-faced Tyrannulet Phylloscartes parkeri: Two different birds were seen near Cock-of-the- 

Rock Lodge. Only described about twelve years ago, the type specimen was collected 

from the hill forest behind Amazonía Lodge. This canopy species is confined to the 

forested foothills of southeast Peru and immediately adjacent Bolivia. 

Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis: A common sight in the cloud forest, this genus of 

frugivorous flycatchers forms loose lek displays consisting of nervous wing-twitches and 

monotonous songs. 

Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus: Just one seen in the Manu foothills. 

Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleaginous (LO): One leader-only sighting at Manu Wildlife 

Centre. 

McConnell’s Flycatcher Mionectes macconnelli (NL): One bird was seen well by Richard at 


Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus: An often hard to see understorey flycatcher 

which we saw at Amazonía as well as Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris: Good views near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, here of 

the southernmost and distinctive race albidiventer. More than one species may be 

involved. 

Inca Flycatcher Leptopogon taczanowskii: Another restricted-range endemic which we saw very well 

in the cloud forest as a core member of a mixed flock above Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Members of this genus build a fibrous hanging nest lined with a thick layer of balsa or 

ceiba (kapok) cotton. This one named after Wladyslaw Taczanowski, a renowned Polish 

zoologist and author of Ornithology of Peru 1884-1886. 

Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus (H): A distant calling bird in the Manu foothills stayed distant. 

Many-coloured Rush Tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra: We all saw this stunning bird at Huacarpay Lake. 

Not all New World flycatchers are drab jobs! 


Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis ecaudatus: Two at Pantiacolla Lodge seen on separate days were 

fairly obliging. The world’s smallest passerine, together with the closely related Blackcapped 

Pygmy-tyrant M. atricapillus. 

Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus: A handful of sightings near Cock-of-the-Rock 

Lodge, here of the race hypochlorus. 

Long-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus eulophotes: Two individuals were seen quite well at 

separate territories on separate days in Manu National Park. 

Flammulated Pygmy-Tyrant (F Bamboo-T) Hemitriccus flammulatus: Only a few of us managed to 

see the devilish ‘flam-bam’ along the Manu road. 

White-bellied Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus griseipectus: It took us a bit to spot it but eventually we all 

had good scope views of one in the subcanopy of Manu National Park. 

Johannes’s Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus iohannis: This handsome little flycatcher made an early but 

welcome appearance along the Manu road. Named after a certain John, an otherwise 

unknown collector on the Museum Goeldi expedition to the Rio Purús region of Brazil in 

1904. 

Black-throated Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus granadensis: This diminutive cloud forest flycatcher 

responded very well to playback allowing us all to have good views at Wayqecha. 

White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant Poecilotriccus albifacies: A great result this tour for everyone, with a 

total of three birds of this bamboo speciality showing well. 

Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus plumbeiceps: This delightful cloud forest bird was one 

of the highlights at Rocotal. 

Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus latirostre (H): Heard-only from the Manu lowlands. 

Black-backed Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus pulchellus: We were able to see two different birds in 

the Manu lowlands allowing everyone a very nice view of this endemic, restricted-range 

bird. 

Spotted Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum maculatum: Two were first seen along the Rio Manu and two 

more were seen during our walk to Blanquillo. 

Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum chrysocrotaphum: A regularly heard but hard to see 

canopy dweller, we had good views of one on a low perch during our lunch stop en 

route to Amazonía Lodge. Here the subspecies neglectum, solid yellow below without 

any black streaking. 

Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens: Seen by just a couple of us along the road below 

Machu Picchu . 

Zimmer’s Flycatcher Tolmomyias assimilis: This forest canopy species was seen by a few of us 

straining our necks at Romero in Manu National Park. 

Grey-crowned Flycatcher (G-c Flatbill) Tolmomyias poliocephalus: Quite a few individuals inhabit 

the second growth woodland around Amazonía Lodge. 

Olive-faced Flycatcher (O-f Flatbill) Tolmomyias viridiceps: A vocal individual showed quite well 

during the journey down to Amazonía Lodge. 

Golden-crowned Spadebill Platyrinchus coronatus: This odd little flycatcher was seen a couple of 

times in Manu National Park. 

White-crested Spadebill Platyrinchus platyrhynchos: It played hard to get for a fair bit but eventually 

we all caught up with this smart looking understorey denizen at Romero Lodge. 

Amazonian Royal Flycatcher Onychorhynchus coronatus (H): One was heard at Amazonía Lodge 

not far from the lodge clearing, a first record for me of this species at the lodge. 

Unadorned Flycatcher Myiophobus inornatus: This sometimes tricky Manu speciality gave us some 

superb looks in the Manu cloud forest. 

Handsome Flycatcher Myiophobus pulcher: One was seen well with Inca Flycatcher in a cloud 

forest mixed flock (from the bridge), here of the widely disjunct southern race oblitus. 

Bran-coloured Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus: We had good views of this open country bird 

during our lunch stop en route to Amazonía Lodge. 

Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher Terenotriccus erythrurus: An opportune sighting enjoyed by all at Manu 



Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea: A ubiquitous cloud forest flycatcher, of the 

nominate race. 

Euler’s Flycatcher Lathrotriccus euleri: We all had excellent views of this austral migrant in the 

floodplain forest of Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Fuscous Flycatcher Cnemotriccus fuscatus (H): At least two heard during our Manu Wildlife Centre 

bamboo efforts, here of the race fuscatior. 

Olive Flycatcher (O-tufted F, O Tufted-F) Mitrephanes olivaceus: We had good scope studies of a 

bird inside the forest at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans: Several pairs were seen in river beds at middle elevations. 

Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus: At least a dozen were seen in the Manu lowlands. Birds 

here are all austral migrants, i.e. birds breeding in southern South America. 

White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus: A female was seen in the Manu temperate forest 

and a male at Machu Picchu, here of the race anthracinus. 

Drab Water-Tyrant Ochthornis littoralis: An abundant flycatcher along the lowland rivers. 

Little Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola fluviatilis: This much requested bird was seen well at the 

Pantiacolla macaw clay lick and more were seen at Blanquillo. 

Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola maculirostris: Two were seen well during our travel day 

through the Cusco highlands to the Manu. 

Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes striaticollis: One was scoped for fairly good views at 

Wayqecha. 

Rufous-webbed Bush-Tyrant Polioxolmis rufipennis: This rather smart looking tyrant was a nice 

addition from the Cusco highlands en route to Manu. 

Golden-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca pulchella: This species was a highlight of our Wayqecha 

cloud forest birding. 

Maroon-chested Chat-Tyrant (M-belted C-T, Chestnut-b C-T) Ochthoeca thoracica: Magnificent 

close-ups of a very obliging bird in the cloud forest. 

Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis: One was seen by all on our walk below 

Wayqecha. This chat-tyrant is usually more common along the upper Manu road, where 

of the race tectricialis. 

Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor: A few birds were seen near below the Acjanaco 

pass. Here the southernmost, white-browed and grey-crowned race berlepschi. 

White-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys: Up to 6 at Huacarpay. 

Short-tailed Field-Tyrant Muscigralla brevicauda: We had a good view of one at Lomas de Lachay 

during the extension. 

Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis: Numerous in the lowlands and lower foothills. 

Grey-capped Flycatcher Myiozetetes granadensis: A fairly common bird at Amazonía Lodge and also 

seen out in the Manu lowlands. 

Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus: This cosmopolitan species was seen often along the river 

margins. 

Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor lictor: This bird of lake and (to a lesser extent) river edges was easily seen 

at Cocha Camungo and Cocha Blanco. Formerly in the genus Pitangus, this species was 

enjoyed a short period in its own monotypic genus Philohydor, based on its different 

syrinx and its cup-shaped nest, the latter very different from the Great Kiskadee’s large 

globular nest with a side entrance. However, once again it has been placed back in 

Pitangus by the SACC awaiting molecular analysis. 

Lemon-browed Flycatcher Conopias cinchoneti: We had good scope views of this noisy upper 

foothill speciality thanks to Gwen’s good spotting. 

Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus (LO): Just one brief leader-only sighting 

from Manu and otherwise heard below Machu Picchu. 

Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus: Several sightings, ranging from as high as Cock-of-the- 

Rock Lodge down into the Manu lowlands. 

Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua: Heard and seen at several sites ranging from the lower 

Manu Road, Amazonía Lodge and Puerto Maldonado. 


Crowned Slaty-Flycatcher Empidonomus aurantioatrocristatus: One was spotted by the group at 

Cocha Blanco for good views of this austral migrant. 

Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus: Numerous. 

Greyish Mourner Rhytipterna simplex: Good looks at this miniature replica of the Screaming Piha 

during our trail birding at Romero. 

Eastern Sirystes Sirystes sibilator: A friendly bird in the Cocha Camungo canopy tree was with us for 

nearly our entire session there. 

Swainson’s Flycatcher Myiarchus swainsoni: An austral migrant that gave us super views in the 

canopy at Cocha Camungo. Named for William Swainson (1789-1855), an English artist 

who was the first to use lithography in bird book illustration and whose works include A 

Selection of the Birds of Brazil and Mexico (1841). 

Short-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus ferox: Just one sighting, from Amazonía Lodge. 

Large-headed Flatbill Ramphotrigon megacephala: Good views of this species from Pantiacolla’s 

bamboo. 

Rufous-tailed Flatbill Ramphotrigon ruficauda: We had a particularly good look at this species at 


Dusky-tailed Flatbill Ramphotrigon fuscicauda: We had good luck with this one year, with decent 

views at Pantiacolla and improved looks in Manu National Park. 

Dull-capped Attila (White-eyed A) Attila bolivianus: Very conspicuous by voice (heard almost daily 

in the Manu lowlands), this smart attila showed very well at the Moriche palm grove we 

visited near Puerto Maldonado. 

Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus: A single sighting for the group from Manu Wildlife Centre. 

COTINGIDAE 

Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristatus: Several good looks at around 6 of this species at upper 

elevation in the cloud forest. 

Barred Fruiteater Pipreola arcuata: Three birds were seen quite well on separate days in the area of 

Pillahuata. 

Masked Fruiteater Pipreola pulchra: A bird that was seen by myself and Richard at Machu Picchu. 

Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruviana: At Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, the landslide from last 

year’s heavy rains had forced the lek to move from its very convenient roadside location 

to a new site nearby located in the forest. A single male came in to the old lek to show 

his stuff and then went back and forth between the leks to show he was the boss (or not?). 

Hopefully the lodge will relocate the hide to view the new lek site. 

Plum-throated Cotinga Cotinga maynana: Brilliant views of a male from the Amazonía Lodge tower. 

Screaming Piha Lipaugus vociferans: Eventually we caught up with an obliging bird blasting its 

decibels from a display perch at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Bare-necked Fruitcrow Gymnoderus foetidus: An odd cotinga that we saw on five different days in 

the Manu lowlands. 

Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata: We saw the throat colour nicely on calling males on 

our first morning out inside Manu National Park. 

PIPRIDAE 

Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin Tyranneutes stolzmanni: Good views of this species through the scope in 

Manu National Park, sometimes difficult to see, but very common by voice. Named after 

Jean Stanislaus Stolzmann (1854-1928), a Polish ornithologist. In 1871 he travelled to 

Peru on behalf of the zoological museum of Warsaw University. 

Fiery-capped Manakin Machaeropterus pyrocephalus: A phantom-like little bird we all saw at . 

Blue-backed Manakin Chiroxiphia pareola: It took a bit of effort but we all eventually saw this 

species along the terra firme trail at Manu Wildlife Centre. Here the yellow-crowned race 

regina. 

Yungas Manakin Chiroxiphia boliviana: This restricted-range species was surprisingly obliging below 

Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge this year. 


Band-tailed Manakin Pipra fasciicauda: We saw a gorgeous male at Amazonía Lodge. Very nice. 

Round-tailed Manakin Pipra chloromeros: We had several good views of lekking males at Amazonía 

Lodge and also Manu Wildlife Centre. 

TITYRIDAE 

Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor: A pair of this often uncommon bird was seen at Manu 


Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana: Both males and females were numerous in the Manu lowlands, 

here the nominate race. 

Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata: Several sightings from the Manu lowlands. 

Greater Schiffornis (Varzea Schiffornis, V Mourner) Schiffornis major: We all had an excellent look at 

this species near Romero Lodge. This genus was formerly placed with the manakins, but 

morphological and genetic data place it in a group with tityras and becards. 

Amazonian Schiffornis Schiffornis amazona (H): A bird called just once from the terra-firme but then 

stayed quiet. 

Cinereous Mourner Laniocera hypopyrra: One at Manu Wildlife Centre was fairly cooperative 

showing well in the scope. 

White-browed Purpletuft Iodopleura isabellae: Two birds were seen very well in our Cocha 

Camungo canopy tree. 

Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor: A male of this species appeared and then disappeared in a 

busy flock during our Pillahuata cloud forest birding. 

White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus: A few encounters with the Amazonían race 

nigriventris, the males of which are nearly all black, apart from the white on the wings. 

Pink-throated Becard Pachyramphus minor: Both sexes were seen well including the smart-looking 

male from the rich floodplain forest of Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Wing-barred Piprites (Wing-b Manakin) Piprites chloris (H): At Manu Wildlife Centre we heard two 

birds but never succeeded in finding its perch. 

VIREONIDAE 

Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys: Three were seen along the road below Machu Picchu. 

Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus: Somewhat common at Amazonía Lodge and below Machu Picchu. 

Dusky-capped Greenlet Hylophilus hypoxanthus (H): A nuclear species of lowland canopy flocks, 

but unfortunately we encountered very little flock activity from the towers. 

Tawny-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus ochraceiceps: A retiring species, heard regularly, and seen on 

two occasions in the mixed flock in Amazonía’s hill forest and at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

CORVIDAE 

White-collared Jay Cyanolyca viridicyanus: We had some really great views of this beautiful cloud 

forest jay in the upper elevations of Manu. Note the correct spelling of the specific name. 

Violaceous Jay Cyanocorax violaceus: This species was commonly observed at Amazonía Lodge as 

well as the Alto Rio Madre de Dios. 

Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas: Good numbers (up to 25 on one day) were seen during our 

boat travels on the Rio Alto Madre de Dios. Southeast Peru is the only place where the 

ranges of this and the previous species overlap. 

Inca Jay Cyanocorax yncas (H): Strangely we never had this species close enough to the road at 

Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

HIRUNDINIDAE 

Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca: Several groups seen in the cloud forest as well as 

around 100 along the coast. 

Brown-bellied Swallow Orochelidon murina: We had around 18 at various stops during the journey 

up to Paucartambo. Note that the SACC recently resurrected Orochelidon. 


White-banded Swallow Atticora fasciata: An elegant looking swallow that we enjoyed regularly in 

the lowlands. 

Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis: Small numbers were seen fairly regularly 

in the lowlands. 

Brown-chested Martin Phaeoprogne tapera: Numerous during our boat journeys on the Rio Manu 

and the Madre de Dios. 

Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea: Small numbers seen on the Rio Madre de Dios. 

White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer: Numerous over rivers and oxbow lakes. 

TROGLODYTIDAE 

Scaly-breasted Wren (Southern Nightingale-Wren) Microcerculus marginatus: Most of us succeeded 

in seeing this ear-splitting forest floor phantom in Manu National Park. 

Grey-mantled Wren Odontorchilus branickii: We had two separate sightings in the Kosñipata valley. 

Southern House Wren Troglodytes musculus: Scattered sightings in the highlands and lowlands. 

Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis: Three sightings of birds accompanying mixed flocks in the 

cloud forest. Two races intergrade in the area, the Peruvian macrourus and the Bolivian 

frater. 

Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus: A group of three birds was seen quite readily at 

Pantiacolla Lodge. 

Inca Wren Thryothorus eisenmanni: A pair showed extremely well near the road below Machu 

Picchu. A restricted-range endemic. Named for Eugene Eisennmann (1906-1981), who 

made a tremendous contribution to Neotropical ornithology as a life-long research 

associate of the American Museum of Natural History. 

Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis: Heard often but finally this skulker showed well in the 

bamboo near Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Buff-breasted Wren Thryothorus leucotis: We had good views of this species on the outskirts of 

Puerto Maldonado. 

Fulvous Wren Cinnycerthia fulva: We caught up with this specialty wren in the Manu cloud forest 

with a bit of perseverance. 

Grey-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys: Good views of at least two birds in the cloud 

forest. Here the nominate race, more than one species likely being involved. 

Chestnut-breasted Wren Cyphorhinus thoracicus: This one proved as difficult as ever with only a few 

of us glimpsing one bird below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Musician Wren Cyphorhinus arada: Eventually we all had good looks at this sometimes shy species 

in Manu National Park. 

POLIOPTILIDAE 

Half-collared Gnatwren Microbates cinereiventris: A family group at Amazonía Lodge showed fairly 

well but as usual they moved quite quickly through the understorey. 

DONACOBIIDAE 

Black-capped Donacobius (B-c Mockingthrush) Donacobius atricapillus: Good views of this 

charismatic bird at Amazonía Lodge, Romero and Cocha Camungo. Formerly included 

with the wrens, recent genetic data link it with the old world Sylvioidea, its closest 

relative family being the Megaluridae (grassbirds, etc). 

CINCLIDAE 

White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus: Three sightings in total from the Manu cloud forest and 

four additional birds were seen along the Urubamba River during the extension. 

TURDIDAE 

Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides (H): We heard several birds but never managed to find one on 

its perch. 


White-eared Solitaire Entomodestes leucotis (H): Likewise this secretive bird did not cooperate. 

Hauxwell’s Thrush Turdus hauxwelli: We all had good views of this species at Amazonía Lodge. 

Named after John Hauxwell, an English ornithologist and collector who married an 

indigenous woman with whom he raised a family in the Amazon. His collection of avian 

specimens from the Ucayali and Huallaga River basins between 1850-1870 is highly 

regarded. 

Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis: A commonly observed thrush in clearings and edges in Manu. 

Great Thrush Turdus fuscater: Common at higher elevations in temperate cloud forest, here of the 

darker race ockendeni. 

Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco: Especially numerous in the drier valleys east of Cuzco, here 

the race conradi. 

Glossy-black Thrush Turdus serranus: We all had good views of a bird perched out at the forest edge 

along the Manu road. 

White-necked Thrush Turdus albicollis: One showed briefly on our first afternoon at Manu Wildlife 

Centre. 

MOTACILLIDAE 

Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens: Three birds showed well in display at Lomas de Lachay. 

THRAUPIDAE 

Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis: Repeated encounters with this handsome edge-growth 

dweller. Traditionally Paroaria was placed in Emberizidae next to the cardinal grosbeaks, 

which in the new taxonomy means they would actually be placed in the Cardinalidae. 

Recent genetic data indicate however they are tanagers! 

Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana: A total of 15 birds seen over several days mostly in the Manu 

foothills in open, disturbed habitats. 

Slaty Tanager Creurgops dentata: One of the specialty tanagers of the Manu road. We saw a pair 

well at middle elevations. 

Parodi’s Hemispingus Hemispingus parodii (NL): A rare bird on the Manu road that was seen well by 

Richard. 

Superciliaried Hemispingus Hemispingus superciliaris: Several encounters, here with the yellowbellied 

race urubambae. 

Black-eared Hemispingus Hemispingus melanotis: A smart hemispingus showing well in the cloud 

forests. A highly variable species, here of the subspecies berlepschi. 

Rust-and-yellow Tanager Thlypopsis ruficeps (NL): A lovely little tanager that showed to the group as 

we first approached the humid forest near Acjanaco pass. 

Black-goggled Tanager Thrichothraupis melanops: A typically slow moving bird gave us good views 

at Rocotal. 

Tachyphonus cristatus: The smart male was seen by a few of us during an optional siesta-time outing 

at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Yellow-crested Tanager Tachyphonus rufiventer: A handsome speciality of south-western Amazonia, 

first seen from the Manu road and later seen again at Amazonía Lodge. 

White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus: Several males and females seen in the lowlands. 

White-winged Shrike-Tanager Lanio versicolor: A persistent flock leader, easy to see as it perched in 

the subcanopy of Amazonía Lodge’s hill forest. 

Masked Crimson Tanager Ramphocelus nigrogularis: Several encounters with this species and best of 

all feeding on bananas at Amazonía Lodge. 

Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo: Common throughout the lowlands, all the way up the 

Kosñipata valley to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Blue-grey Tanager Thraupis episcopus: Common. 

Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum: Regularly seen in the lowlands and foothills. 

Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala: Several sightings in the cloud forest of this large 

tanager. 


Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis: Six birds were seen in the dry habitat surrounding 

Huacarpay Lake. 

Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis montana: The largest mountain-tanager in the area, showing 

beautifully. 

Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris: A total of 15 of this stunner seen in the 

Manu cloud forest above Pillahuata. 

Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus: We had good views of a pair in a mixed 

flock near the mirador where we also heard the far-carrying song, here of the southern 

subspecies. 

Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii: Two birds were seen brilliantly at Wayqecha. 

Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager Delothraupis castaneoventris: We caught up with this specialty 

tanager at Pillahuata enjoying good views. 

Yellow-throated Tanager Iridosornis analis: A very handsome cloud forest tanager spotted by 

François. 

Golden-collared Tanager Iridosornis jelskii: Wow! A pair posed at close range in the Manu cloud 

forest. This one’s named after Konstanty Jelski, 19th century Polish zoologist and curator 

of the Lima museum. 

Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota: A single bird seen below Machu Picchu during the 

extension was our only sighting. A monotypic genus, the name of which literally means 

‘having the form of a manakin’. This refers to this species’ bill, which was considered to 

be manakin-like. 

Orange-eared Tanager Chlorochrysa calliparaea: What a stunner! Here the race fulgentissima, with 

breast and belly mostly deep cobalt blue. 

Golden-naped Tanager Tangara ruficervix: Two birds made a short appearance with a cloud forest 

flock. 

Silvery Tanager (Silver-backed T) Tangara viridicollis: A total of 6 birds showed well near Aguas 

Calientes. 

Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis: Many superb views of this colourful foothill species. 

Spotted Tanager Tangara punctata: Nearly 15 were seen in the vicinity of Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii: Three birds were seen in the Manu temperate forest. Many 

often comment how different the birds in southern Peru of the southern race atrocoerulea 

seem from birds in Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador. 

Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis: Quite a few, around 30, were seen with mixed flocks in 

the cloudforest, of the southern race berlepschi. 

Turquoise Tanager Tangara mexicana: Several sightings of this handsome tanager. A scientific 

misnomer, since this species is not found in Mexico and not even anywhere in Central 

America! To those of you who have been to SE Brazil, note that birds there are sometimes 

split off as a separate species, White-bellied Tanager T. brasiliensis. 

Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis: Delightfully numerous, here of the entirely red-rumped nominate 

race. Another silly scientific name, since this species doesn’t occur anywhere near Chile. 

Opal-rumped Tanager Tangara velia: Our only sighting of the tour was from Amazonía Lodge’s 

canopy tower. 

Opal-crowned Tanager Tangara callophrys: Two obliged for wonderful close-ups at the Manu 

Wildlife Centre tower. 

Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola: Two sightings in the lower cloud forest and Amazonía Lodge. 

Golden-eared Tanager Tangara chrysotis: Two birds perched out for nice views near Cock-of-the- 

Rock Lodge. 

Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala: Another superb montane tanager, here of the 

southern race lamprotis, with orange crown and yellow sides to the head. 

Green-and-gold Tanager Tangara schrankii: Another regularly seen canopy gem. 

Golden Tanager Tangara arthus: Just six of this amazing species were seen around Cock-of-the-Rock 

Lodge. 


Swallow Tanager Tersina viridis (LO): Two seen in flight at the Moriche palm forest on the outskirts 

of Puerto Maldonado. 

Black-faced Dacnis Dacnis lineata: Three sightings in the lower cloud forest and Amazonía Lodge. 

Yellow-bellied Dacnis Dacnis flaviventer: First seen by François en route to Amazonía Lodge and 

also seen at Romero and Manu Wildlife Centre tower. 

Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana: Scattered sightings in the Manu foothills, Amazonía Lodge, Pantiacolla 

and also the Puerto Maldonado area. 

Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza: First seen in the San Pedro area with a few other sightings 

from the Manu lowlands. 

Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus: A female seen through the scope from the Romero trails 

was our only sighting. 

Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum: Our first birds were seen in the arid country near Cusco 

(nominate) and the sacred valley, and small numbers were then found in the Lomas de 

Lachay (littorale). Both races are very grey and quite different-looking from the brownish 

birds in Ecuador (fraseri). 

Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons: Multiple encounters, here of the blue-crowned (in males) 

race sordidum. 

White-browed Conebill Conirostrum ferrugineiventre: One with a mixed flock in the upper Manu 

temperate forest was seen well by all. 

Rusty Flowerpiercer Diglossa sittoides: Two were seen at our Ollantaytambo hotel. 

Moustached Flowerpiercer Diglossa mystacalis: Fairly common at the highest elevations in the 

cloudforest. One of the prettiest in the genus, here of the se Peruvian race albilinea, with 

buffy white moustache and no pectoral band. 

Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris: Common in the inter-Andean valleys above 

Paucartambo. 

Deep-blue Flowerpiercer Diglossa glauca: Two birds seen at middle elevations along the Manu road. 

Masked Flower-piercer Diglossopis cyanea: Up to 18 individuals were seen in the upper elevations. 

INCERTAE SEDIS 

Bananaquit Coereba flaveola: Three birds were seen along the lower Manu road and some of you 

even added it to your property list for Amazonía Lodge. 

Slate-coloured Grosbeak Saltator grossus (H): One at Amazonía Lodge. 

Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus: A regular visitor to the bananas of Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge 

and common around Manu Wildlife Centre. Genetic data indicates that Saltator is not a 

cardinal grosbeak but may in fact belong with the thraupid tanagers. 

Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens: In Manu we saw two birds in secondary habitats such as 

Blanquillo from the hide and also Cocha Camungo. 

Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris: At least 10 seen between Huacarpay and during our 

travels in the Cusco highlands. More were seen in arid country around Cusco and the 

Sacred Valley during the extension. 

EMBERIZIDAE 

Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis: Conspicuous in open areas at higher elevations, but 

also numerous in the Lomas de Lachay. 

Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons: Numerous along river margins and also a few were 

seen around Puerto Maldonado. 

Peruvian Sierra-Finch (Olive-backed S-F) Phrygilus punensis: We all had some good looks at this 

species in the highlands on our first day and on the following day above Cusco. Named 

for the arid puna grasslands that dominate the altiplano region of the southern Andes. 

Mourning Sierra-Finch Phrygilus fruticeti: Several were seen between Huacarpay and on our r 

through the highlands to Manu, here of the race peruvianus. 

Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus: Nearly 100 were seen between Huacarpay Lake and 

the arid valleys en route to Paucartambo. 


Band-tailed Sierra-Finch Phrygilus alaudinus: Numerous in the Lomas de Lachay, where in full song, 

and even song flights were observed several times. 

Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch Poospiza caesar: Three of this restricted-range Peruvian endemic 

obliged very well this year at a new site en route to Manu. 

Collared Warbling-Finch Poospiza hispaniolensis: Up to 25 were seen at Lachay this year. The sexes 

have dimorphic plumage. 

Greenish Yellow-Finch Sicalis olivascens: At least 1 seen during our highland birding en route to 

Manu on our second day. 

Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola: This species has now established itself in the Puerto Maldonado area 

where we saw a handful of birds perched on electric cables. These birds were brought in 

from the north by a caged bird trader who released them in order to avoid imminent 

arrest by wildlife authorities. 

Grassland Yellow-Finch Sicalis luteola: A flock of at least 10 birds was seen at Huacarpay Lake. 

Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina: Just one seen along the coast on the very last day. 

Black-and-white Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa: We saw around a male looking very much at home 

in the Amazonía Lodge clearing. Four more were seen near Puerto Maldonado. 

Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis: Six birds were seen along the Manu road. 

Chestnut-bellied Seedeater Sporophila castaneiventris: One seen along the Manu Road in the open 

country en route to Amazonía Lodge, and a few more were seen near Puerto Maldonado. 

Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch (Lesser S-F) Oryzoborus angolensis: : One seen along the Manu Road in 

the open country en route to Amazonía Lodge and a second was seen in the grass at 

Blanquillo. 

Black-billed Seed-Finch Oryzoborus atrirostris: At least 4 were seen quite well at Blanquillo. 

Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis: The most abundant seedeater in the dry scrub of the high 

elevations. 

Pectoral Sparrow Arremon taciturnus: Mostly just heard but Richard had good views at Amazonía 

Lodge. 

Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Arremon brunneinucha (H): Heard-only in the bamboo below Machu 

Picchu. 

Olive Finch Arremon castaneiceps: Quite nice views for those of us that went off the road to see this 

sometimes shy understorey bird. 

Black-faced Brush-Finch (Dark-f B-F) Atlapetes melanolaemus: Numerous in the cloudforest, 

occupying quite a broad altitudinal range, doubtless due to the lack of other Atlapetes 

species. 

Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus: A common bird at mid-elevations. This wideranging 

species exhibits complex geographic variation, birds here belonging to the race 

peruvianus, with pale iris but no white postocular spot. They were very vocal during our 

visit, and the song differs dramatically from that of e.g. Ecuadorian birds. Genetic data 

indicate Chlorospingus to be in fact an emberizid (sparrows), with the AOU recently 

accepting this change. 

Short-billed Bush-Tanager (Yellow-whiskered B-T) Chlorospingus parvirostris: Wonderful views of 

close birds in the upper Manu cloud forest. 

Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus flavigularis: Numerous in mixed flocks at lower 

elevations. 

CARDINALIDAE 

Highland Hepatic Tanager Piranga lutea: Another bird seen by those of us that did not do the ruins 

tour below Machu Picchu. 

Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica: Nice views of the race peruviana, females of which look 

quite different from those of other subspecies. We first encountered this species in Manu 

National Park, but it seemed more numerous at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Olive Tanager Chlorothraupis frenata: Two seen briefly in Amazonía’s hill forest as they mostly 

stayed out of sight. 


Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris: One was seen fairly well at our Ollantaytambo 

hotel. 

PARULIDAE 

Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi: Four were seen foraging over the road near Aguas Calientes. 

Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia: Surely the most bizarre record of the trip was an individual of 

what appeared to be the aestiva group of this species seen in an area of roadside second 

growth on the outskirts of Puerto Maldonado. 

Slate-throated Redstart (S-t Whitestart) Myioborus miniatus: Numerous on the Manu road and below 

Machu Picchu. 

Spectacled Redstart (S Whitestart) Myioborus melanocephalus: Replacing the previous species at 

higher elevations. Here the southernmost race bolivianus, with a solid black crown. 

Two-banded Warbler Basileuterus bivittatus: Singing birds showed well along the road below Cockof-the-Rock 

Lodge, here of the nominate race. 

Golden-bellied Warbler Basileuterus chrysogaster: A near-endemic that was seen well at lower 

elevations on the Manu road. 

Pale-legged Warbler Basileuterus signatus: A typical warbler of the upper subtropical and lower 

temperate zones; we saw four quite well along the Manu road. 

Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus: This species was heard along the Manu road but 

was not seen until the Machu Picchu area. 

Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus: Small groups of these energetic warblers were seen on 

two separate days in the Manu cloud forest. 

Buff-rumped Warbler Basileuterus fulvicauda: One showed well at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

ICTERIDAE 

Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons: The most commonly seen oropendola, here of 

the yellowish-billed race alfredi. 

Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens: A middle-elevation oropendola that nests in small 

colonies; we saw it best at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus: Regular sightings. ‘Decumanus’ is Latin for a 

legionnaire of the tenth legion; this name refers to the dagger- or sword-like bill and the 

shield-like casque of this species. 

Olive Oropendola (Amazonían O) Gymnostinops yuracares: A handsome large oropendola we 

admired at a nesting colony up on the terra firme trail of Manu Wildlife Centre. Named 

after the Yuracarés, an Indian tribe in Bolivia. 

Casqued Oropendola Psarocolius oseryi: Fairly common around both Romero and also Manu 

Wildlife Centre this year. 

Southern Mountain-Cacique (Bolivian C) Cacicus chrysonotus: A group of at least 4 were seen above 

Wayqecha. 

Solitary Black Cacique (Solitary C) Cacicus solitarius: (H): Many heard records this tour but we could 

not get any to show from the Heliconia thickets despite a good effort. 

Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela: Ubiquitous at lower elevations, here of the nominate race. 

Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus: We watched a pair at Cocha Camungo succeed in 

breaking the eggs of an entire colony of the previous species, probably in order to usurp 

their well-constructed nests. 

Pale-eyed Blackbird Agelaius xanthophthalmus: A total of three birds were seen very well at Cocha 

Camungo. A species still only known from less than a dozen scattered localities in 

Amazonían Ecuador and Peru. 

Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelasticus thilius: A total of 20 seen in the marsh at Huacarpay near 

Cusco. 

Giant Cowbird Scaphidura oryzivora: Most numerous along the riverbanks. 

Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis: Five seen on the outskirts of Puerto Maldonado. 

Red-breasted Meadowlark Sturnella militaris: Two seen near Puerto Maldonado. 


FRINGILLIDAE 

Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica: Nearly 100 seen between Huacarpay and Paucartambo and a 

few more seen at Lomas de Lachay. 

Olivaceous Siskin Carduelis olivacea: A few good looks at this siskin in humid habitats at lower and 

middle elevations of the Manu Road. 

White-lored Euphonia (Golden-bellied E) Euphonia chrysopasta: A pair showed well from the 

canopy tower at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster: Most numerous at lower elevations along the 

Manu road. Here the race brunneifrons, males of which have a rufous crown, and a fairly 

ochraceous tinge below. 

Rufous-bellied Euphonia Euphonia rufiventris: Excellent close-ups in the garden of Manu Wildlife 

Centre. 

Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea: Near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge we enjoyed two 

good sightings of roadside bird. 

MAMMALS 

Saddleback Tamarin Saguinus fuscicollis: A few encounters with this small, nervous primate, The 

subfamily of tamarins and marmosets differ from the cebid new-world monkeys 

(capuchins, spiders, etc.) by giving birth to twins, having female-dominant family groups, 

and by their specialized feeding habits. 

White-fronted Capuchin Monkey (Brown Pale-f C) Cebus albifrons: This species travels in larger 

groups than the following species. We had good views of a large troop at Manu Wildlife 

Centre On average, they forage in taller trees than the Brown Capuchin and also differ in 

that one dominant male does not govern them as in that species. 

Brown Capuchin Monkey (Black-capped C) Cebus apella: Widespread in South America and highly 

intelligent. In northeast Brazil I was the first to confirm tool-use in a family group of this 

species that actually used large round stones in a Schwarzenegger dead lift to break open 

Attalea palm nuts. Photographs by Peter Oxford of this same family of monkeys were 

recently featured in the January 2003 issue of BBC Wildlife. 

Black-headed Night Monkey Aotus nigriceps (H): Their owl-like hoots were heard on our night walk 

at Manu Wildlife Centre. 

Brown Titi (Dusky T-Monkey) Callicebus brunneus: Five seen at Pantiacolla and two more seen at 

Romero. 

Common Squirrel Monkey Saimira sciureus: An active insectivore that moves in large groups and 

cover huge territories, some days up to five kilometres. These large troops are governed 

by groups of females who make alliances and dominate the males! 

Red Howler Monkey (Red H) Alouatta seniculus: Entertaining moments watching these mostly 

folivorous primates. 

Peruvian Spider Monkey Ateles chamek: Several sightings of this hefty (over 25 lbs (12 kilos)) 

arboreal acrobat foraging in the floodplain forest around Romero and Manu Wildlife 

Centre. Spider monkey taxonomy is quite complex; this form of southwest Amazonía 

(including Manu) is now considered a separate species. A Red List species classified as 

Least Concern. 

Common Woolly Monkey Lagothrix lagothricha: First spotted by Martine and François along the 

Manu road. We also had an exciting encounter with these debris-throwing, muscular 

frugivores in the terra firme at Amazonía Lodge. 

South American Coati Nasua nasua: One of our best mammal sightings was watching a family group 

cross the Manu road below Pillahuata. 

Kinkajou Potos flavus: We had good daytime views of this normally nocturnal critter feeding in 

cecropias above Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 


Tayra Eira barbara: A marauding individual was regularly seen lurking around the banana feeder at 

Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Jaguarundi Puma yagouaroundi: A lucky sighting for Gill as the rest of us were beating the bush for 

an antthrush in Manu Wildife Centre’s terra firme. 

White-lipped Peccary Tayassu pecari: A group of about 50 provided some exhilarating moments as 

we quietly watched these high-strung beasts cross the trail at Pantiacolla Lodge. 

White-tailed Deer Odocoileus virginianus: A nice surprise at Huacarpay on our first day. 

Bolivian Squirrel Sciurus ignitus: These were the banana thieves at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. 

Southern Amazon Red Squirrel Sciurus spadiceus: A few of this impressive looking large squirrel at 

Amazonía and Romero. 

Capybara Hydrochaerus hydrochaeris: One during the journey from Romero to Manu Wildlife 

Centre. 

Brown Agouti Dasyprocta variegata: Seen in the lowlands, this is the only mammal in the rainforest 

capable of opening the thick coconut like outer shell of Brazil-nut fruits. 

Amazon Bamboo Rat Dactylomys dactylinus (H): An ominous nocturnal sound we heard at a few of 

the lodges. 

REPTILES 

Yellow-spotted Side-neck Turtle Podocnemis unifilis: We saw numerous sunning groups on exposed 

trunks in the Manu and Madre de Dios Rivers, an uncommon sight elsewhere in the 

Amazon. Although this is the only member of this genus, it has two local names: taricaya 

and charapa. They are heavily persecuted for their eggs, a veritable delicacy. 

Black Caiman Melanosuchus niger: Manu is one of the few places where healthy populations of 

Black Caiman still exist. We saw several during our catamaran rides on the oxbows. They 

are listed as “endangered” by CITES, after having been hunted to near extinction for their 

relatively soft hides. 

Spectacled Caiman Caiman crocodilus: Several sightings of individuals attempting to warm 

themselves on the banks of the Rio Manu during the friaje. 

Amazon Race Runner Ameiva ameiva: Females and males have reversed coloration. Commonly seen 

in the lodge clearings. 

Teid Lizard Tupinambis nigropunctatus: The large lizards we saw sunning at the edge of the lodge 

clearings. 


(clockwise) We visited two separate macaw licks this 

year including a Blue-headed Macaw lick. Hummers 

featured at several lodges including Amazonia Lodge 

and its famous Rufous-crested Coquette, and Cock-ofthe-Rock 

Lodge where Booted Racket-tail was a regular 

visitor. This year we had two separate sightings of 

Long-tailed Potoo. This pair of Orange-backed Troupial 

succeeded in destroying all of the eggs from a Yellowrumped 

Cacique colony right before our very eyes!

More oxbow lake birds included 

Sungrebe, Pale-eyed 

Blackbird (a Manu speciality) 

and Wattled Jacana (top 

row). Red Howler Monkey 

was one of nine species of 

primates seen (above). Forest 

birds were diverse and 

included Pavonine Quetzal 

(middle), White-browed 

Purpletuft and Semicollared 

Puffbird (bottom row).

The Manu has immense diversity with an 

amazing number of habitats. Starting in the arid 

Cusco highlands with this Ornate Tinamou (top 

right) which is very much at odds with oxbow 

lake and riverine birds such as Agami Heron 

(top left), Hoatzin (above), Horned Screamer 

(middle right) and Crane Hawk (lower right).

Download Full Tour Report 1202kb - Birdquest

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?