Martin - Float fishing and spinning in the Nottingham
Martin - Float fishing and spinning in the Nottingham
Martin - Float fishing and spinning in the Nottingham
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22 BOTTOM FISHING IN THE NOTTINGHAM STYLE.<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are open to strong objections, although I am aware that<br />
<strong>the</strong>re is a lot more profit to be made out of a mach<strong>in</strong>e-made<br />
rod than out of one that is made by h<strong>and</strong>. (Let it be dist<strong>in</strong>ctly<br />
understood by my readers that I am now writ<strong>in</strong>g as a<br />
practical angler, <strong>and</strong> not as a rod <strong>and</strong> tackle maker.) I have<br />
known <strong>the</strong> butts of mach<strong>in</strong>e-made rods to snap short off close<br />
under <strong>the</strong> ferrule (ow<strong>in</strong>g, no doubt, to <strong>the</strong> tool <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> la<strong>the</strong><br />
slipp<strong>in</strong>g or nick<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> wood a trifle just <strong>the</strong>re), so I should<br />
say, for practical purposes, have a good h<strong>and</strong>-made rod, even<br />
if it is not so perfectly true or got up so smartly as a mach<strong>in</strong>emade<br />
one. A good float-<strong>fish<strong>in</strong>g</strong> rod should be made with<br />
plenty of timber <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> butt, <strong>and</strong> tapered evenly <strong>and</strong> truly<br />
right up to <strong>the</strong> po<strong>in</strong>t, so that it will strike a fish directly<br />
from <strong>the</strong> po<strong>in</strong>t, <strong>and</strong> hook him <strong>in</strong> an <strong>in</strong>stant, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>n bend<br />
to <strong>the</strong> weight of him <strong>in</strong> a perfectly true curve. Sometimes<br />
<strong>the</strong> socket jo<strong>in</strong>ts or ferrules of a rod split at <strong>the</strong> ends, <strong>and</strong><br />
to prevent this some makers have <strong>the</strong>ir ferrules r<strong>in</strong>ged, that<br />
is, double at each end. Now <strong>the</strong>se double-ended ferrules are<br />
to be objected to, <strong>and</strong> really are not required. I have found<br />
that <strong>in</strong> n<strong>in</strong>e cases out of ten, when <strong>the</strong> ferrule splits it is<br />
because it is a tapered one, from end to end, with <strong>the</strong> smallest<br />
end at top. Now <strong>the</strong> socket or counter that fits <strong>in</strong>to this<br />
tapered ferrule is straight, <strong>and</strong> fits tightly at one end, while<br />
at <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r end it is a little less, <strong>and</strong> consequently does not<br />
fit close up. This, of course, fl<strong>in</strong>gs all <strong>the</strong> weight on <strong>the</strong><br />
extreme end of <strong>the</strong> ferrule, <strong>and</strong> when a little extra stra<strong>in</strong> has<br />
to be put on, <strong>the</strong> ferrule is liable to split. The best plan is<br />
to have your ferrules perfectly straight, with <strong>the</strong> counters<br />
fitt<strong>in</strong>g exactly from end to end, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>n just open or bell<br />
out a trifle that end of <strong>the</strong> ferrule that grips <strong>the</strong> wood ; <strong>and</strong><br />
I might just add that <strong>the</strong> wood should not be shouldered<br />
down to take <strong>the</strong> ferrule, so as to make wood <strong>and</strong> ferrule<br />
quite level with each o<strong>the</strong>r, but it should, as it were, fit well<br />
over, <strong>and</strong> tightly grip <strong>the</strong> wood. And ano<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>in</strong>g I have<br />
seen <strong>in</strong> rods that must be objected to, <strong>and</strong> that is <strong>the</strong> pegs<br />
that are on <strong>the</strong> bottom of <strong>the</strong> jo<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>the</strong>re is a hole bored<br />
;<br />
down <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> jo<strong>in</strong>t to take this peg, <strong>and</strong> I have seen<br />
this latter so very long <strong>and</strong> thick, that <strong>the</strong> hole has to be<br />
bored down past <strong>the</strong> ferrule bottom on purpose to be of <strong>the</strong>