Rescue - Petzl

ROCK CLIMBING
Installing an equalized anchor on a multi-pitch route
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Contents
50 %
58 %
50 % 58 %
71 %
< 8°
100 %
< 8°
© Lafouche
71 % 100 %
50 %
60°
58 %
90° 120°
50 % 58 %
71 %
71 % 100 %
100 %
The anchor is the rallying point on the rope, from which
climbers should be able to hang with confidence and
belay their partner on a solid base. The key points
concerning the belay anchor: have a minimum of two
anchor points linked together and anticipate the possibility
of failure of one of the points. With less reliable anchors or
in dubious rock, triangulation allows the load to be shared
between the anchors.
Semi-directional anchor
The master point of the equalization is mobile.
Advantage: the load is always evenly distributed on the two
higher points, even during lateral tension (if the belayer moves
over to see the climber, or if there is a traverse at the end of the
climb...).
Disadvantage: if one of the anchor points fails, the master
point slides to the end of the sling, shock loading the remaining
anchor.
A knot on the sling reduces the impact of a failed anchor point.
It must be made on the side of the weakest anchor, or on both
sides.
• Anchor with one sling, one
knot and a twist in the sling
Note: If the piton hole is already overly used or if its position
cross-loads the carabiner, the sling can be girth-hitched on one
or two anchor points. In this case, check that the piton edges
are not sharp enough to cut the sling.
100 %
100 %
60°
100 % 90° 100 %
120°
100 % 100 % 100 %
• Anchor with one sling, two
knots and a twist in the sling
100 %
Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.