SUN AND SIGHTS IN LISBON

Sun and Sights in Lisbon
not, stroll down to the riverside row of converted
warehouses at Santa Apolónia for another kind of
shopping experience.
To the Gulbenkian and Beyond
Morning
Begin at the Pombal roundabout. An underpass leads
to the statue, where you can study its various
representations of tidal waves and destruction, as well
as of the enlightened despot’s many reforms. Cross back
to the bottom of Parque Eduardo VII and set out for the
summit; in summertime it’s best not to leave it too late
in the morning, as the walk is unshaded and it gets hot
early. If you need a break, dive into the cool of the Estufa
Fria and Quente greenhouses. At the top, ponder the
symbolism of João Cutileiro’s Monument to 25 April –
not one of his most communicative works – and its
contrast with Keil do Amaral’s twin columns. Then climb
the last bit of the hill to Linha d’Água; lunch here, or at
the adjacent Eleven, whose Michelin star is deserved.
Afternoon
After lunch, continue past El Corte Inglés and on to the
side entrance of the Gulbenkian Museum, at the north
end of Avenida António Augusto de Aguiar. Expect to
spend most of the afternoon in the museum – or else
give it a quick browse and decide what to come back
for. Stroll through the park and exit it on Rua Marquês
de Sá Bandeira, then take Avenida Miguel Bombarda for
a taste of the Avenidas Novas. Turn left on to Avda da
República and walk a few blocks north to Campo
Pequeno and its Neo-Moorish bullring. Even if you
disapprove of bull-fighting you can enjoy a drink in the
park surrounding the whimsical arena.
A Sintra Drive
Morning
Starting out from Cascais, drive along the Guincho coast
towards Cabo da Roca (road N247). After Guincho beach,
the road begins to climb. Follow the main road past the
turning to Malveira da Serra. Turn off to the left for Cabo
da Roca or, a tiny bit farther on, to the right for Peninha
and Convento dos Capuchos. The latter choice offers
opportunities for walks in the woods and views across
the Serra; the former an invigorating lungful of sea air
and the possibility of a drink at the O Moinho bar. Back
on the main road, carry on towards Colares and stop
there for lunch, taking the time to explore the village.
Afternoon
From Colares take the smaller road (N375 heading inland)
towards Sintra, which will lead you past Eugaria and to
Monserrate. Make an extended stop at Monserrate,
giving yourself time to enjoy the gardens. The area above
the parking lot outside the entrance is a popular picnic
spot. Carry on along the lovely road that tunnels through
the woods until you reach stately Seteais, where tea
might be in order. A short distance further on you will
come to Quinta da Regaleira – worth visiting for its
gardens and esoterica – before you enter Sintra proper.
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Follow the road up, until you find parking above the main
town, then walk down and do the sights or head straight
to Lawrence’s for dinner. You can return to Cascais
(and Lisbon) via the faster N9.
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