SUN AND SIGHTS IN LISBON

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Sun and Sights in Lisbon Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Practical information • Praça do Império • Map B6 • 21 362 00 34 • Open 10am–6pm (4:30pm Oct–Apr) Tue–Sun; closed 25 Dec, 1 Jan, 1 May, Easter Sun • Adm €4.50 (concessions €2.25; under-14s free; free before 2pm on Sun & public holidays) • www.mosteirojeronimos.pt Top tips • This is one of the most visited sites in Lisbon. Think twice before going at weekends, on mid-mornings or on mid-afternoons (the latter two are favoured by tour groups). Hit it at lunchtime, or just before it closes, when the stone turns honey-coloured. • One of the most serene places for a drink in Belém is the terrace café at the CCB , overlooking the river from a minimalist garden. Stone surprises Spend some time studying the carvings on the pillars in the nave, and you may come across expressions of the mason’s boredom: sudden appearances of pigs’ or devils’ heads in a repetitive pattern of milder faces. What better way to remind posterity that all this beauty was hewn by human hands, belonging to individuals who occasionally got fed up? traveldk.com 6 Must See Sights
Sun and Sights in Lisbon Sé Catedral Lisbon’s cathedral was built shortly after Dom Afonso Henriques had taken Lisbon from the Moors in 1147, and stands on on the site once occupied by the city’s main mosque. The crenellated Romanesque building we see today is a restoration and reconstruction, because the cathedral suffered damage from earthquakes and was rebuilt in various architectural fashions. The Sé is also an important archeological site, with new finds made regularly beneath the cloister – originally excavated to reinforce the building’s foundations. The Sé is a very dark church, and enlightenment seems a distant prospect. Much of interest in the chapels is literally obscured. Head for the lighter cloister, and go in the afternoon, when the low light enters the façade’s rose window. A great place for a relaxed drink in the neighbourhood is Pois, Café , whose Austrian owners are helping to keep Alfama cosmopolitan. For more Lisbon places of worship See Churches and Monasteries Top 10 Features Villalobos. traveldk.com 1 Rose Window Reconstructed using parts of the original, the rose window softens the façade’s rather severe aspect, but unfortunately lets in only a limited amount of light. 2 Belltowers These stocky towers – defining features of the Sé – echo those of Coimbra’s cathedral, built a few years earlier by the same master builder, Frei Roberto. A taller third tower over the crossing collapsed in the 1755 earthquake (see Sé Catedral ). 3 Romanesque Nave Little remains of the original cathedral beyond the renovated nave. It gives onto a chancel enclosed by an ambulatory, a 14th-century addition. 4 Gothic Ambulatory Chapels The Chapel of São Cosme and São Damião is one of nine on the ambulatory. Look out for the tombs of nobleman Lopo Fernandes Pacheco and his wife, Maria Capela de Bartolomeu Joanes This Gothic side chapel was sponsored by a wealthy Lisbon merchant in 1324. In addition to the founder’s sculpted tomb, it contains a later eight-panel retable and a detailed nativity scene from 1766, by Machado de Castro. 6 St Anthony’s Font Tradition has it that Fernando Martins Bulhões (later St Anthony) was baptized in this font – which now bears a tile panel of the saint preaching to the fishes. He is also said to have had his early education at the cathedral school. 5 7 Cloister The Gothic cloister, reached through one of the ambulatory’s chapels, was an early addition to the Sé. Some of its decoration anticipates the Manueline style. 8 13th-century Iron Railing One of the cloister’s chapels retains its original 13th-century iron railing, the only one of its kind to survive in Portugal. 9 Archeological Finds Remains left by Moors, Visigoths, Romans and Phoenicians have been found in the excavation of the cloister. 7 Must See Sights
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2009 2009 Wanderlust Travel Awards
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SUN AND SIGHTS IN LISBON

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