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SUN AND SIGHTS IN LISBON

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Sun and Sights in Lisbon<br />

Shopping Districts<br />

modern chains.<br />

➤ Map M4–5<br />

1 Baixa<br />

The charm of the Baixa<br />

lies with its courteous<br />

shopkeepers, who still stand<br />

behind wooden counters and<br />

do sums on bits of paper. For<br />

all that, the pedestrianized<br />

Rua Augusta is lined with<br />

2 Chiado<br />

Traditionally the quarter<br />

with Lisbon’s most elegant<br />

shops, the Chiado is now the<br />

city’s most varied and<br />

rewarding shopping district.<br />

It mixes quiet streets with<br />

lively squares and sheet-music suppliers with street-cred<br />

fashion boutiques.<br />

➤ Map L4<br />

3<br />

Guerra Junqueiro/Roma<br />

Head uptown to Avda Guerra Junqueiro and<br />

adjacent Avda Roma for good clothes shops and cafés<br />

– and a visit to tia territory. Tia means “aunt”, but also<br />

signifies a deeply tanned, jewellery-laden woman who<br />

takes her shopping seriously.<br />

➤ Map G1<br />

Campo de<br />

Ourique/Amoreiras<br />

Gentrification proceeds at a<br />

genteel pace in Campo de<br />

Ourique. The grid street plan<br />

makes for lots of corner<br />

bakeries, cafés and small<br />

shops. The nearby Amoreiras<br />

Towers was Lisbon’s first shopping centre. Brash and<br />

in a more trafficky location, they nevertheless provide<br />

plenty to tempt the shopper.<br />

➤ Map E3<br />

5<br />

Fresh Food Markets<br />

Prices at Lisbon’s food markets may not be lower<br />

than at supermarkets, but the produce is often fresher<br />

and the experience has an added flavour. Among the<br />

best are Mercado da Ribeira, opposite Cais do Sodré<br />

station; Mercado de Campo de Ourique, in west Lisbon;<br />

and Mercado 31 de Janeiro, behind the Saldanha<br />

Residence building on Avenida Fontes Pereira de Melo.<br />

➤ Map K6, E3, F2<br />

Bairro Alto<br />

Bairro Alto competes<br />

with the big shopping<br />

centres by also offering<br />

night-time shopping – in a<br />

much cooler setting, and<br />

with the possibility of sipping<br />

on a drink as you shop. Some shops here may seem<br />

ineffably trendy, but Bairro Alto is a proven nursery for<br />

Portuguese fashion and design.<br />

traveldk.com<br />

4<br />

6<br />

➤ Map K3–4<br />

7<br />

Rua de São Bento/Rua da Escola Politécnica<br />

Rua de São Bento is a mini-district for antiques and<br />

secondhand shops, among others. It’s a short hop to<br />

pleasant Praça das Flores, for a coffee under the trees,<br />

and then an uphill walk to Rua da Escola Politécnica,<br />

where some more expensive antiques shops are<br />

clustered.<br />

➤ Map F4<br />

8<br />

Santa Apolónia<br />

Although just a row of converted warehouses, this<br />

small shopping area opposite Santa Apolónia station has<br />

some of Lisbon’s most interesting shops – for music,<br />

food and design. They are spiritually presided over by<br />

the Bica do Sapato restaurant and the adjacent Lux<br />

nightclub.<br />

➤ Map R3<br />

that are the thing.<br />

9<br />

Feira da Ladra<br />

Lisbon’s Thieves’<br />

Market sells items like<br />

beautiful brass taps that<br />

won’t fit any known<br />

plumbing. As with most flea<br />

markets, it’s the sights,<br />

sounds, people and haggling<br />

➤ Campo de Santa Clara • Map R2 • Tue, Sat<br />

10<br />

Avenida da Liberdade<br />

It could be greener and wider, but Lisbon’s grand<br />

avenue remains torn between its roles as road and<br />

promenade. Several international designers are not put<br />

off and have their main Lisbon shops here, alongside<br />

some venerable local merchants.<br />

➤ Map F3<br />

Shops<br />

2<br />

1<br />

Luvaria Ulisses<br />

This small gem of a<br />

shop is the only one in<br />

Portugal selling just gloves.<br />

Hand sewn, they have a<br />

lifetime guarantee for<br />

repairs.<br />

➤ Rua do Carmo 87A • Map<br />

L4<br />

Viúva Lamego<br />

The country’s top maker of quality tiles has a small<br />

showroom in the Chiado. The choice is reproduction,<br />

contemporary or made-to-order designs, all hand painted.<br />

Orders can be shipped.<br />

➤ Calçada do Sacramento 29 • Map L4<br />

34<br />

Shopping in Lisbon

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