Seam concept men's jacket - Gütermann AG
Seam concept men's jacket - Gütermann AG
Seam concept men's jacket - Gütermann AG
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
GÜTERMANN GmbH<br />
Landstraße 1<br />
D - 79261 Gutach-Breisgau, Germany<br />
Work plan / Plan de travail / Arbeitsplan /<br />
Piano di lavoro / Proceso de trabajo<br />
Designation / Désignation /<br />
Bezeichnung /<br />
Denominazione /<br />
Denominación<br />
Concept / Conception /<br />
Konzeption / Concetto /<br />
Concepción<br />
Description / Description /<br />
Beschreibung / Descrizione<br />
/ Descripción<br />
1<br />
Date / Date / Datum / Data<br />
/ Fecha<br />
No. / N°<br />
/ Nr. /<br />
N° / N°<br />
13.03.2012<br />
10.04.2012<br />
Jacket (men)<br />
(01) Mara120 / Mara70 / Mara30 / Mara220 / Skala360<br />
/ Tera180<br />
Currency / Monnaie /<br />
Währung / Valuta /<br />
Moneda<br />
EUR<br />
<strong>Seam</strong> position / Position de la couture /<br />
Nahtposition / Posizione di cucitura /<br />
Posición costura<br />
Costs / Coût / Kosten / Costi /<br />
Costes<br />
Stitch type / Type<br />
de point / Stichtyp<br />
/ Tipo di punto /<br />
Tipo de puntada<br />
Lining 1x<br />
<strong>Seam</strong> length / Long.<br />
d. couture / Nahtlng.<br />
/ Lung. cucitura /<br />
Long. de la costura<br />
Consumption / Consommation /<br />
Verbrauch / Consumo /<br />
Consumo<br />
186,54 m<br />
Stitches / Points<br />
/ Stiche / Punti /<br />
Puntadas<br />
Article / Article /<br />
Artikel / Articolo /<br />
artículo<br />
Shade /<br />
Coloris /<br />
Farbe /<br />
Colore / Color<br />
Quantity /<br />
Quantité / Menge<br />
/ Quantità /<br />
Cantidad<br />
SS / RC /<br />
NQF / RCU /<br />
RC<br />
1.1 Close side seam 301 2x 50,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,28 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,28 m<br />
1.2 Close centre back seam 301 1x 78,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,97 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,97 m<br />
1.3 Close front side 301 2x 52,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
1.4<br />
Close wrist and elbow<br />
seam 401 2x 115,00 cm<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,66 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,66 m<br />
4 /cm 31 daN<br />
Needle thread Mara 120 000 3,12 m<br />
Hook thread Mara 120 000 7,80 m<br />
1.5 Close shoulder seam 301 2x 19,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,52 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,52 m<br />
1.6 Sew lining to facing 301 2x 84,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 2,32 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 2,32 m<br />
1.7 Egde stitch 100 P 101 2x 80,00 cm 1 /cm 8 daN<br />
1.8<br />
1.9<br />
Blindstitch lining to<br />
sleeve hem 318 2x 30,00 cm<br />
Attach lining to outer<br />
fabric (sleeve side) 301 2x 15,00 cm<br />
Needle thread Mara 120 000 5,84 m<br />
2 /cm 10 daN<br />
Top thread Tera 180 000 0,78 m<br />
Under thread Tera 180 000 1,24 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,46 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,46 m<br />
Generated with <strong>Gütermann</strong> NOP 2000 ©<br />
<strong>Gütermann</strong> <strong>AG</strong>, Landstraße 1, D-79261 Gutach, Telefon 07681/21-0, Telefax 07681/21-449, http://www.guetermann.com<br />
1
GÜTERMANN GmbH<br />
Landstraße 1<br />
D - 79261 Gutach-Breisgau, Germany<br />
No. / N°<br />
/ Nr. /<br />
N° / N°<br />
<strong>Seam</strong> position / Position de la couture /<br />
Nahtposition / Posizione di cucitura /<br />
Posición costura<br />
Stitch type / Type<br />
de point / Stichtyp<br />
/ Tipo di punto /<br />
Tipo de puntada<br />
<strong>Seam</strong> length / Long.<br />
d. couture / Nahtlng.<br />
/ Lung. cucitura /<br />
Long. de la costura<br />
Stitches / Points<br />
/ Stiche / Punti /<br />
Puntadas<br />
Article / Article /<br />
Artikel / Articolo /<br />
artículo<br />
Shade /<br />
Coloris /<br />
Farbe /<br />
Colore / Color<br />
Quantity /<br />
Quantité / Menge<br />
/ Quantità /<br />
Cantidad<br />
SS / RC /<br />
NQF / RCU /<br />
RC<br />
1.10 Sew lining to seam 313 1x 124,00 cm 4 /cm 20 daN<br />
1.11<br />
2<br />
Topstitch sleeve lining at<br />
sleeve hole 301 2x 60,00 cm<br />
Construction of inside pockets 1x<br />
Top thread Tera 180 000 10,32 m<br />
Under thread Tera 180 000 11,72 m<br />
3 /cm 19 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,48 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,48 m<br />
2.1 Sew inside pocket piping 301 4x 14,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
2.2<br />
2.3<br />
Sew inside pocket piping<br />
( pen pocket) 301 2x 4,00 cm<br />
Sew inside pocket piping<br />
( cigarette pocket) 301 2x 8,00 cm<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,84 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,84 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,16 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,16 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,26 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,26 m<br />
2.4 Sew pockets to piping 301 2x 40,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
2.5<br />
Stitch and sew inside<br />
pocket welt 301 2x 16,00 cm<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,12 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,12 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,48 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,48 m<br />
2.6 Bartack pockets 301 8x 2,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,48 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,48 m<br />
2.7 Close pocket pouch 301 4x 40,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
2.8<br />
Make inside pocket<br />
buttonholes 404 1x 2,00 cm<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 2,04 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 2,04 m<br />
12 /cm 160 daN<br />
Needle thread Mara 70 000 0,13 m<br />
Hook thread Mara 70 000 0,28 m<br />
2.9 Sew on buttons 107 1x 1,00 cm 0 /cm 0 daN<br />
3<br />
Breast pocket 1x<br />
Needle thread Mara 70 000 0,18 m<br />
3.1 Stitch breast pocket 301 1x 11,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
3.2<br />
3.3<br />
Egde stitch (breast<br />
pocket) 209 1x 15,00 cm<br />
Sew pocket pouch lining<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,18 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,18 m<br />
2 /cm 0 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,23 m<br />
Generated with <strong>Gütermann</strong> NOP 2000 ©<br />
<strong>Gütermann</strong> <strong>AG</strong>, Landstraße 1, D-79261 Gutach, Telefon 07681/21-0, Telefax 07681/21-449, http://www.guetermann.com<br />
2
GÜTERMANN GmbH<br />
Landstraße 1<br />
D - 79261 Gutach-Breisgau, Germany<br />
No. / N°<br />
/ Nr. /<br />
N° / N°<br />
<strong>Seam</strong> position / Position de la couture /<br />
Nahtposition / Posizione di cucitura /<br />
Posición costura<br />
Stitch type / Type<br />
de point / Stichtyp<br />
/ Tipo di punto /<br />
Tipo de puntada<br />
<strong>Seam</strong> length / Long.<br />
d. couture / Nahtlng.<br />
/ Lung. cucitura /<br />
Long. de la costura<br />
Stitches / Points<br />
/ Stiche / Punti /<br />
Puntadas<br />
Article / Article /<br />
Artikel / Articolo /<br />
artículo<br />
Shade /<br />
Coloris /<br />
Farbe /<br />
Colore / Color<br />
Quantity /<br />
Quantité / Menge<br />
/ Quantità /<br />
Cantidad<br />
SS / RC /<br />
NQF / RCU /<br />
RC<br />
to welt 301 1x 22,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,32 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,32 m<br />
3.4 Close breast welt pocket 301 1x 34,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,48 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,48 m<br />
3.5 Bartack welt egdes 304 2x 4,00 cm 4 /cm 10 daN<br />
4<br />
Pocket construction 1x<br />
Top thread Skala 360 000 0,26 m<br />
Under thread Skala 360 000 0,26 m<br />
4.1 Stitch pocket flaps 301 2x 28,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,90 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,90 m<br />
4.2 Egde stitch (flaps) 209 2x 24,00 cm 2 /cm 0 daN<br />
4.3<br />
4.4<br />
Sew in pocket welt with<br />
flap 301 4x 16,00 cm<br />
Sew piping to poke<br />
pouch 301 4x 16,00 cm<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,70 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,24 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,24 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,96 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,96 m<br />
4.5 Close pocket pouch 301 4x 2,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
4.6<br />
5<br />
Bartack front pocket<br />
piping 301 2x 40,00 cm<br />
Sleeve construction 1x<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,24 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,24 m<br />
3 /cm 19 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,08 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,08 m<br />
5.1 Sew sleeve buttonholes 107 8x 2,00 cm 0 /cm 0 daN<br />
5.2<br />
5.3<br />
5.4<br />
Close wrist seam in<br />
outer fabric 301 2x 45,00 cm<br />
Sew sleeve slit in the<br />
outer fabric (corners) 301 2x 8,00 cm<br />
Close elbow seam in the<br />
outer fabric 301 2x 55,00 cm<br />
Needle thread Mara 70 000 5,68 m<br />
3 /cm 19 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,28 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,28 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,30 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,30 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,66 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,66 m<br />
5.5 Sew sleeve hem 103 2x 25,00 cm 1 /cm 3 daN<br />
Generated with <strong>Gütermann</strong> NOP 2000 ©<br />
<strong>Gütermann</strong> <strong>AG</strong>, Landstraße 1, D-79261 Gutach, Telefon 07681/21-0, Telefax 07681/21-449, http://www.guetermann.com<br />
3
GÜTERMANN GmbH<br />
Landstraße 1<br />
D - 79261 Gutach-Breisgau, Germany<br />
No. / N°<br />
/ Nr. /<br />
N° / N°<br />
<strong>Seam</strong> position / Position de la couture /<br />
Nahtposition / Posizione di cucitura /<br />
Posición costura<br />
Stitch type / Type<br />
de point / Stichtyp<br />
/ Tipo di punto /<br />
Tipo de puntada<br />
<strong>Seam</strong> length / Long.<br />
d. couture / Nahtlng.<br />
/ Lung. cucitura /<br />
Long. de la costura<br />
Stitches / Points<br />
/ Stiche / Punti /<br />
Puntadas<br />
Article / Article /<br />
Artikel / Articolo /<br />
artículo<br />
Shade /<br />
Coloris /<br />
Farbe /<br />
Colore / Color<br />
Quantity /<br />
Quantité / Menge<br />
/ Quantità /<br />
Cantidad<br />
SS / RC /<br />
NQF / RCU /<br />
RC<br />
Needle thread Skala 360 000 2,40 m<br />
5.6 Sew on leeve buttons 107 8x 1,00 cm 0 /cm 0 daN<br />
Needle thread Mara 70 000 3,28 m<br />
5.7 Sew in sleeve 301 2x 60,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
6<br />
6.1<br />
6.2<br />
6.3<br />
Processing of collar 1x<br />
Join undercollar and<br />
colar interlining 301 1x 80,00 cm<br />
Sew upper and<br />
undercollar together 304 1x 44,00 cm<br />
Close corners (collar<br />
gorge seam) 301 2x 4,00 cm<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,80 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,80 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,19 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,19 m<br />
3 /cm 19 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,02 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,02 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,18 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,18 m<br />
6.4 Sew in collar binding 301 1x 18,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,29 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,29 m<br />
6.5 Baste undercollar 301 2x 5,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,20 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,20 m<br />
6.6 Topstitch undercollar 304 1x 50,00 cm 3 /cm 19 daN<br />
7<br />
Interstage processing 1x<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,15 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,15 m<br />
7.1 Close chest dart 301 2x 25,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
7.2<br />
Attach sleeve hole<br />
interfacing 301 2x 20,00 cm<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,78 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,78 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,64 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,64 m<br />
7.3 Blindstitch binding 103 2x 105,00 cm 2 /cm 6 daN<br />
Needle thread Skala 360 000 16,70 m<br />
7.4 Stitch edges (binding) 301 2x 80,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 2,38 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 2,38 m<br />
7.5 Topstitch binding 103 2x 75,00 cm 2 /cm 6 daN<br />
Needle thread Skala 360 000 12,44 m<br />
Generated with <strong>Gütermann</strong> NOP 2000 ©<br />
<strong>Gütermann</strong> <strong>AG</strong>, Landstraße 1, D-79261 Gutach, Telefon 07681/21-0, Telefax 07681/21-449, http://www.guetermann.com<br />
4
GÜTERMANN GmbH<br />
Landstraße 1<br />
D - 79261 Gutach-Breisgau, Germany<br />
8<br />
No. / N°<br />
/ Nr. /<br />
N° / N°<br />
8.1<br />
<strong>Seam</strong> position / Position de la couture /<br />
Nahtposition / Posizione di cucitura /<br />
Posición costura<br />
Stitch type / Type<br />
de point / Stichtyp<br />
/ Tipo di punto /<br />
Tipo de puntada<br />
Assembly 1x<br />
<strong>Seam</strong> length / Long.<br />
d. couture / Nahtlng.<br />
/ Lung. cucitura /<br />
Long. de la costura<br />
Close centre back seam<br />
(outer fabric) 301 1x 84,00 cm<br />
Stitches / Points<br />
/ Stiche / Punti /<br />
Puntadas<br />
Article / Article /<br />
Artikel / Articolo /<br />
artículo<br />
Shade /<br />
Coloris /<br />
Farbe /<br />
Colore / Color<br />
Quantity /<br />
Quantité / Menge<br />
/ Quantità /<br />
Cantidad<br />
SS / RC /<br />
NQF / RCU /<br />
RC<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,25 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,25 m<br />
8.2 Close front side seam 301 2x 54,00 cm 4 /cm 26 daN<br />
8.3<br />
8.4<br />
9<br />
9.1<br />
Close side seam (outer<br />
fabric) 301 2x 60,00 cm<br />
Close shoulder seam<br />
(outer fabric) 301 2x 19,00 cm<br />
Final stage of construction 1x<br />
Sew shoulder flap to<br />
outer fabric 301 2x 21,00 cm<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,62 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,62 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 1,80 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 1,80 m<br />
4 /cm 26 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,62 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,62 m<br />
1 /cm 6 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 0,56 m<br />
Under thread Mara 120 000 0,56 m<br />
9.2 Baste <strong>jacket</strong> 101 2x 117,00 cm 1 /cm 3 daN<br />
Needle thread Mara 220 000 8,24 m<br />
9.3 Stitch seam 103 1x 124,00 cm 2 /cm 6 daN<br />
9.4<br />
9.5<br />
Edge stitch (front<br />
section) 209 1x 241,00 cm<br />
Button holes (front<br />
section) 404 2x 2,50 cm<br />
Needle thread Skala 360 000 10,10 m<br />
2 /cm 0 daN<br />
Top thread Mara 120 000 3,23 m<br />
14 /cm 0 daN<br />
Needle thread Mara 70 000 1,70 m<br />
Hook thread Mara 70 000 0,58 m<br />
Gimpe Mara 30 000 0,42 m<br />
9.6 Lapel buttonholes 404 1x 2,20 cm 14 /cm 0 daN<br />
Needle thread Mara 70 000 0,76 m<br />
Hook thread Mara 70 000 0,27 m<br />
Gimpe Mara 30 000 0,20 m<br />
9.7 Bartack buttonholes 304 4x 1,00 cm 4 /cm 45 daN<br />
9.8<br />
Sew on buttons (front<br />
section) 107 2x 1,00 cm<br />
Top thread Mara 70 000 0,24 m<br />
Under thread Mara 70 000 0,24 m<br />
0 /cm 0 daN<br />
Needle thread Mara 70 000 0,82 m<br />
Generated with <strong>Gütermann</strong> NOP 2000 ©<br />
<strong>Gütermann</strong> <strong>AG</strong>, Landstraße 1, D-79261 Gutach, Telefon 07681/21-0, Telefax 07681/21-449, http://www.guetermann.com<br />
5
GÜTERMANN GmbH<br />
Landstraße 1<br />
D - 79261 Gutach-Breisgau, Germany<br />
Parts List / Liste de pièces / Stückliste /<br />
Lista pezzi / Lista de componentes<br />
Designation / Désignation /<br />
Bezeichnung /<br />
Denominazione /<br />
Denominación<br />
Concept / Conception /<br />
Konzeption / Concetto /<br />
Concepción<br />
Description / Description /<br />
Beschreibung / Descrizione<br />
/ Descripción<br />
Date / Date / Datum / Data<br />
/ Fecha<br />
No. / N° /<br />
Nr. / N° /<br />
N°<br />
13.03.2012<br />
10.04.2012<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
4<br />
5<br />
6<br />
Jacket (men)<br />
(01) Mara120 / Mara70 / Mara30 / Mara220 / Skala360<br />
/ Tera180<br />
Currency / Monnaie /<br />
Währung / Valuta /<br />
Moneda<br />
EUR<br />
Article Code / Code article /<br />
Artikel-Bezeichnung / Descripzione<br />
articolo / Descripción del articulo<br />
Costs / Coût / Kosten / Costi /<br />
Costes<br />
Sales unit / UV / VE /<br />
Unità di vendita /<br />
Unidad de venta<br />
Shade / Coloris /<br />
Farbe / Colore /<br />
Color<br />
Consumption / Consommation /<br />
Verbrauch / Consumo /<br />
Consumo<br />
186,54 m<br />
Quantity / Quantité /<br />
Menge / Quantità /<br />
Cantidad<br />
Price per / Prix par / Preis pro<br />
/ Prezzo per / Precio por<br />
1000 m<br />
Total costs / Coût total /<br />
Gesamtkosten / Costi totali<br />
/ Costes totales<br />
Mara 120 700207 000 97,30 m 0,000000 0,000000<br />
Mara 70 702170 000 14,16 m 0,000000 0,000000<br />
Mara 30 702404 000 0,62 m 0,000000 0,000000<br />
Mara 220 772607 000 8,24 m 0,000000 0,000000<br />
Skala 360 749591 000 42,16 m 0,000000 0,000000<br />
Tera 180 704172 000 24,06 m 0,000000 0,000000<br />
Generated with <strong>Gütermann</strong> NOP 2000 ©<br />
<strong>Gütermann</strong> <strong>AG</strong>, Landstraße 1, D-79261 Gutach, Telefon 07681/21-0, Telefax 07681/21-449, http://www.guetermann.com<br />
1
GÜTERMANN GmbH<br />
Landstraße 1<br />
D - 79261 Gutach-Breisgau, Germany<br />
Concept / Conception / Konzeption /<br />
Concetto / Concepción<br />
Designation / Désignation /<br />
Bezeichnung /<br />
Denominazione /<br />
Denominación<br />
Description / Description /<br />
Beschreibung / Descrizione /<br />
Descripción<br />
Jacket (men)<br />
Mara 30 702404 000 0,62<br />
Mara 70 702170 000 14,16<br />
Mara 120 700207 000 97,30<br />
Mara 220 772607 000 8,24<br />
Skala 360 749591 000 42,16<br />
Tera 180 704172 000 24,06<br />
Sum 186,54<br />
Date / Date / Datum / Data<br />
/ Fecha<br />
13.03.2012<br />
10.04.2012<br />
Length in / Longeur de /<br />
Länge in / Lunghezza a /<br />
Longitud n<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9<br />
Generated with <strong>Gütermann</strong> NOP 2000 ©<br />
<strong>Gütermann</strong> <strong>AG</strong>, Landstraße 1, D-79261 Gutach, Telefon 07681/21-0, Telefax 07681/21-449, http://www.guetermann.com<br />
m<br />
1
Change language