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Holland Herald<br />

JANUARY <strong>2012</strong> YOUR COPY TO KEEP<br />

THEUP ISSUE


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Holland Herald<br />

JANUARY <strong>2012</strong> YOUR COPY TO KEEP<br />

THEUP ISSUE<br />

15 The up fi les<br />

Floating furniture, a stairway to the<br />

heavens and a very long neck<br />

24 Facts & fi gures<br />

Up by numbers, factoids, and tiny<br />

nuggets gg of info<br />

4<br />

What W affect does<br />

your y height have on<br />

your y happiness?<br />

58 Plane crazy cr<br />

30<br />

Basel<br />

44 High society<br />

The high fl ying world of classic<br />

aeroplane collectors<br />

The Swiss city of Basel sits at a<br />

crossroads of three nations, mixing<br />

sublime art, architecture and scenery<br />

The up issue<br />

Welcome to the January issue, which carries the theme ‘up’.<br />

This month, the cover was created by Russian pixel artist<br />

Alexey Garkushin, exclusively for Holland Herald. Inspired by<br />

the fairy tale Jack and the Beanstalk (in which a small boy<br />

climbs a beanstalk to steal treasure from a giant ogre), the<br />

image is styled like a video game in which the characters must<br />

race ever upwards. Inside, we hope you’ll fi nd some uplifting<br />

content to inspire you for the year ahead. Enjoy your fl ight.<br />

39<br />

Designers on the up<br />

A selection of the latest talents to<br />

come from Eindhoven’s renowned<br />

Design Academy<br />

48<br />

Rio de Janeiro<br />

Capoeira on the beach all morning,<br />

trekking in the jungle all afternoon,<br />

and then the sun goes down...<br />

CONTENTS<br />

Ski whizz<br />

The oddest and least-known winter<br />

sport resorts, from après ski with<br />

monkeys to exploring by helicopter<br />

08<br />

65<br />

69<br />

81<br />

Frontlines<br />

Little bits of<br />

everything<br />

Updates<br />

What’s on in<br />

The Netherlands<br />

Touchdowns<br />

The best<br />

city guides<br />

Photo competition<br />

Your chance to win<br />

62<br />

Holland Herald 3


CONTENTS<br />

KLM Travellers Check<br />

85 KLM news<br />

Postage stamps of KLM huisjes<br />

87 Flying Blue news<br />

The latest info for frequent fl yers<br />

89 Entertainment<br />

A world of audio, video and games<br />

91 KLM online<br />

KLM’s internet and mobile services<br />

93 People & planet<br />

The future of sustainable air travel<br />

95 Behind the scenes<br />

The fi rst steps to space tourism<br />

111 *<br />

Shopping<br />

Enjoy our wide selection<br />

of tax-free products on<br />

intercontinental and<br />

selected European fl ights<br />

4 Holland Herald<br />

97 Partners<br />

Our companion companies<br />

98 Plane facts<br />

KLM’s fl eet in focus<br />

101 Route maps<br />

The world at your fi ngertips<br />

108 Airport hubs<br />

Amsterdam and Paris<br />

109 Amsterdam map<br />

Around town<br />

110 Fit for fl ying<br />

Tips and exercises<br />

*The Shopping section is not included in Holland Herald on most sshort-haul<br />

fl ights<br />

Holland Herald<br />

holland-herald.com<br />

Volume 47 Number 1<br />

January <strong>2012</strong><br />

Published by Ink, London, UK<br />

Editorial by MediaPartners Group,<br />

Amstelveen, The Netherlands<br />

KLM Media Manager<br />

Lotte Gouverneur<br />

EDITORIAL<br />

Editor-in-Chief Mike Cooper<br />

Editor Matt Farquharson<br />

Travellers Check Editor Kevin Haworth<br />

Art Director Esther Tji<br />

Concept Lava, Amsterdam<br />

Designer Allan Grotjohann<br />

Photo Editor Janine Bekker<br />

Contributors Tatiana Cardeal, Mark Eveleigh,<br />

Pip Farquharson, Pete Gamlen, Alexey<br />

Garushkin, Julia Gorodecky, Annemarie Hoeve,<br />

Tom Jordan, Mark Niederman, Andy Round,<br />

Fulco Smit Roeters, Mark Smith, Sam<br />

Vanallemeersch, Anna Whitehouse<br />

MediaPartners Group<br />

PO Box 2215<br />

1180 EE Amstelveen<br />

The Netherlands<br />

Editorial inquiries +31 20 5473600<br />

mikecooper@mediapartners.nl<br />

PUBLISHER<br />

Chief Executive Jeffrey O’Rourke<br />

Executive Creative Director Michael Keating<br />

Chief Operating Officer Hugh Godsal<br />

Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />

Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />

Production Controller Helen Grimley<br />

Holland Herald is published on behalf<br />

of KLM Royal Dutch Airlines by Ink<br />

141-143 Shoreditch High Street,<br />

London E1 6JE, United Kingdom<br />

Advertising: +44 20 76136947<br />

info@ink-global.com<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

Commercial Director<br />

Kevin Rolfe<br />

+44 20 76138772<br />

Publisher<br />

Anna Szpunar<br />

India representation<br />

Aninda Mondal<br />

Maxposure Media Group<br />

aninda@maxposure.in<br />

+91 98 11422340<br />

Shopping Pages Design and Concept<br />

Eline Gambino-Lebens<br />

Shopping Photography/Production Ink<br />

Lithography by Grafimedia Amsterdam<br />

Printed by Roularta Printing<br />

ISSN 0018-3563<br />

Reproduction without written per mission is prohibited.<br />

The publisher accepts no responsibility for un solicited<br />

material. The publisher has made every effort to arrange<br />

copyright in accordance with existing legislation. Those<br />

who feel that rights may apply to them can, in spite of<br />

this, contact the publisher.


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Engineered for men with a<br />

39.000-mile journey home.<br />

When some of the world’s most hardened<br />

professional yachtsmen set out<br />

with their high-tech craft to sail<br />

almost 40.000 nautical miles around the<br />

world; when they defy howling storms and<br />

monster waves; when they risk collision with<br />

icebergs, broken rudders and having their<br />

sails torn to shreds; when they suffer temperature<br />

fl uctuations from –5 to +40 degrees<br />

Celsius without a word of complaint; when<br />

they don’t mind living off freeze-dried food<br />

for nine months and suffering from constant<br />

sleep deprivation, yet at the end fall deliriously<br />

into each other’s arms, it can only be<br />

about one thing: the legendary Volvo Ocean<br />

Race. Welcome to the world’s toughest<br />

sailing competition.<br />

Not without reason is it regarded as the<br />

Mount Everest of sailing. And any contestant<br />

planning to be up there with the leaders<br />

needs passion, precision and state-of-theart<br />

technology. And these are the qualities<br />

that link the Volvo Ocean Race 2011– <strong>2012</strong><br />

with the new sponsor and Offi cial Timekeeper<br />

of this prestigious competition, the<br />

Swiss watchmaking company, IWC Schaffhausen.<br />

Both brands push the boundaries<br />

of technology and design with authenticity<br />

and adventure at the heart of everything<br />

they do.<br />

As a premium brand in the international luxury<br />

watch segment, IWC Schaffhausen has fully<br />

committed itself to the manufacture of<br />

top-quality products in haute horlogerie.<br />

Exclusive watches like the Portuguese Yacht<br />

IWC Schaffhausen Boutiques: Beverly Hills | Dubai | Geneva | Hong Kong | Shanghai | Zurich www.iwc.com<br />

Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Edition<br />

“Volvo Ocean Race 2011-<strong>2012</strong>”, Reference IW390212<br />

in stainless steel with black rubber strap<br />

Club Chronograph Edition “Volvo Ocean Race<br />

2011– <strong>2012</strong>”, which has all the precision of<br />

nautical instruments in its genes. Powered by<br />

the rugged IWC-manufactured 89361-calibre<br />

movement and water-resistant to 6 bar, the<br />

chronograph demonstrates its sporting qualities<br />

with a fl yback function and an additional<br />

scale with quarter-second calibration for<br />

recording short periods of time. Longer<br />

stopped times can be read off like a second<br />

time on the separate analogue subdial –<br />

which will ensure that during every stage of<br />

the race crews never lose sight of the 24-hour<br />

record. For the destination for each stage as<br />

well as the end of the race, IWC will be presenting<br />

a special prize to the team making the<br />

fastest going over a period of 24 hours.<br />

Nine months of being rocked and shaken<br />

about, 75.000 kilometres of water, wind and<br />

waves – and every minute counts. IWC<br />

Schaffhausen is proud to be on board for<br />

the Volvo Ocean Race 2011– <strong>2012</strong>.<br />

IWC. Engineered for men.


Frontlines<br />

Arts, design, culture,<br />

events and ideas from<br />

across the globe<br />

8 Holland Herald<br />

Words: Annemarie Hoeve<br />

Your own sleep sanctuary<br />

{}<br />

Launched recently<br />

at Moscow Airport,<br />

Sleepbox is an<br />

instant mini-hotel<br />

cabin – complete<br />

with bed and WiFi,<br />

so you squeeze<br />

in some quality<br />

between-fl ight<br />

slumber. See<br />

arch-group.org.<br />

Rubbish art?<br />

Idea ■ Litter box<br />

Artist Justin Gignac is getting people to pay good money<br />

for garbage, demonstrating the power of packaging. Tucked<br />

into neat, transparent cubes, suddenly the city’s rubbish is<br />

transformed into an intriguing interior accessory. No two<br />

cubes are the same, and so far there have been over 1,300<br />

takers in 29 countries. It certainly makes a more authentic<br />

souvenir than the standard Statue of Liberty keychain, and<br />

you’re helping to rid the streets of unsightly refuse.<br />

Photo: Gwon Osang/Arario Gallery<br />

New<br />

Eyecatcher<br />

Apart from<br />

‘regular’ New<br />

York garbage,<br />

you can also buy<br />

limited-edition<br />

rubbish left over<br />

after special<br />

events such as<br />

New Year’s Eve in<br />

Times Square. See<br />

nycgarbage.com.<br />

Art ■ Photo sculptures<br />

Is this photography or<br />

sculpture? Both. South<br />

Korean artist Gwon Osang<br />

fi rst takes pictures of his<br />

subjects from every angle<br />

and then sticks them on<br />

mannequins to create<br />

life-sized sculptures.<br />

Hundreds of photos are<br />

used for each statue<br />

and bizarre poses lend a<br />

sense of the surreal to<br />

the fi nished result.<br />

See osang.net.


TREATS<br />

BOOKS<br />

Colourful and practical,<br />

this bag by Bombata is<br />

designed to carry and<br />

protect your tablet,<br />

notepad or e-reader.<br />

See momastore.org.<br />

Rietveld & Curaçao:<br />

A modern architect<br />

on a Caribbean Island<br />

Dutch designer Gerrit<br />

Rietveld - best known for his<br />

angular Red and Blue Chair -<br />

is celebrated in a new book<br />

about his work on the island<br />

of Curaçao. Between 1949<br />

and 1960, he worked on six<br />

buildings, adapting his work<br />

to fi t the island’s climate,<br />

with rainwatercollecting<br />

roofs,<br />

and shutters<br />

replacing<br />

walls to better<br />

capture c cooling<br />

winds. w Available<br />

in i English<br />

and a Chinese.<br />

Published P by<br />

010 0<br />

Publishers.<br />

Launched L in 1905, only two years<br />

after a the Wright brothers made<br />

their t fi rst fl ight, Aéroplane<br />

eau e de toilette by Parisian perfume<br />

house h Detaille can still lift your<br />

spirits. See detaille.com.<br />

Life itself is the most<br />

wonderful fairytale<br />

Love’em and leave’em<br />

Check it out ■ Museum of Broken Relationships<br />

Subtle Swedish dish<br />

design Mutewatch ewatch<br />

is a touchscreen creen<br />

watch with a digital<br />

display that t lights<br />

up only when en you<br />

want it to. See<br />

mutewatch.com. .com.<br />

FRONTLINES<br />

Stage<br />

The Nightingale and Other Fables<br />

Amsterdam ■ 12-22 January<br />

Canada’s celebrated director Robert Lepage<br />

has reimagined the music and short works<br />

of Stravinsky to create this enchanting<br />

production for De Nederlandse Opera,<br />

currently under the baton of Chinese-<br />

American Xian Zhang. The unique show<br />

features puppetry and shadow theatre,<br />

the orchestra pit is a pond, and the<br />

Hague Philharmonic sits on the stage. See<br />

muziektheater.nl. And for more events in<br />

Amsterdam and the Netherlands, turn to<br />

pages 65 and 67.<br />

Culture<br />

Incorrigible romantics should avoid this<br />

Zagreb museum. On display here are<br />

objects donated by the general public<br />

that symbolise their failed relationships.<br />

Highlights include an axe used by<br />

a man to chop up his ex-girlfriend’s<br />

furniture after being ditched in favour<br />

of a lesbian lover, and a garden gnome<br />

that experienced a violent encounter<br />

with a car windscreen, marking the end<br />

of a 20-year relationship. Last year,<br />

the museum won an award for Most<br />

Innovative Museum in Europe. It started<br />

off as a way for its founders, Olinka<br />

Vištica and Dražen Grubišic, to deal with<br />

their own break-up.<br />

See brokenships.com.<br />

Holland Herald 9


FRONTLINES<br />

Stumped for sound<br />

Gadget ■ Indoor acoustics<br />

These days, just add the<br />

prefi x ‘i’ to anything and<br />

you have yourself a market.<br />

Take the iTree. This is an<br />

iPhone docking station made<br />

out of an entire tree trunk.<br />

Customers can even go on a<br />

forest jaunt in Austria, where<br />

designers KMKG are based,<br />

to select their own tree. The<br />

trunk is then hollowed out<br />

“to produce optimum sound<br />

quality”. This will set you back<br />

about €11,000. Can also be<br />

outfi tted for an iPad or sound<br />

system. See kmkg.org.<br />

Skate seat<br />

Design ■ For the boardroom<br />

Jumps, fl ips, plunging down a half-pipe at top speed;<br />

skateboarding embodies all the wreckless abandon of<br />

having bones young enough to regenerate quickly after<br />

accidents. If you love the lifestyle but have left your days of<br />

swift regeneration behind you, Skate-Home offer a colourful<br />

compromise with furniture designs based on skateboards.<br />

10 Holland Herald<br />

Art for audio-lovers<br />

This chair is<br />

made from four<br />

Canadian Maple<br />

skateboards and<br />

is available in<br />

ten colours. See<br />

skate-home.com.<br />

Handmade in Holland<br />

Wheels ■ Modern heritage<br />

If you like your bike spokes bespoke, check<br />

out the Primarius Artisan. Dutch company<br />

Primarius stands for a century of quality<br />

cycle making. Now, design team Signiatura<br />

has revitalised the brand to create a new,<br />

handmade bicycle that combines top-notch<br />

craftsmanship with modern design and<br />

materials. Only available as a limited edition,<br />

cycle fetishists will have to move fast to get<br />

their hands on one of these highly exclusive<br />

models. Prices around €2,995. See primarius.nl.


King Power Minute Repeater<br />

Chrono Tourbillon. Column-wheel<br />

chronograph with 120-hour power reserve,<br />

Tourbillon and minute repeater with<br />

a cathedral gong. Real carbon fibre case.<br />

Manufactured entirely by Hublot.<br />

20-piece limited edition.


FRONTLINES<br />

Strange but true<br />

Research ■ Ig Nobel Awards<br />

Horticultural notes<br />

Music by cucumber<br />

12 Holland Herald<br />

Computer shoot<br />

Introducing the world’s only<br />

fi rst-person shooter computer<br />

game without guns. Instead,<br />

you explore dangerous<br />

situations armed only with a<br />

camera. It’s called Warco, short<br />

for ‘war correspondent’. The<br />

idea is to ‘shoot’ the story and<br />

edit your footage into a news<br />

story. For budding combat<br />

journalists or pacifi st gamers?<br />

See defi antdev.com.<br />

Science<br />

The Ig Nobel Awards celebrate<br />

the sillier side of science. The<br />

2011 winners include: Japanese<br />

chemists who invented a smoke<br />

alarm for the deaf that releases<br />

wasabi in case of fi re; biologists<br />

who discovered a species<br />

of beetle that mates with a<br />

specifi c beer bottle; and some<br />

doctors who found that “people<br />

make better decisions about<br />

some kinds of things — but<br />

worse decisions about other<br />

kinds of things‚ when they have<br />

a strong urge to urinate”. See<br />

improbable.com.<br />

Hear your garden grow with the help of Dutch<br />

artist Ronald van der Meijs. He has designed a<br />

musical instrument that can be rigged up to a<br />

living cucumber plant. A mechanical ‘fi nger’ set<br />

against a string changes position as the plant<br />

grows, altering the sound. Listen to an excerpt<br />

on ronaldvandermeijs.nl.<br />

NEW<br />

Photo: Anny CK Photography<br />

My beautiful launderette<br />

Concept ■ Arcade washer<br />

Dairy dressing<br />

Forget silk, thanks to a German<br />

fashion designer, milk could<br />

become the next luxury fabric.<br />

Former microbiology student<br />

Anke Domaske developed her<br />

milk-based fabric, QMilch, from<br />

the milk protein casein. It takes<br />

about six litres of milk to make<br />

a dress. And although her styles<br />

may go out of fashion, the<br />

fabric has no sell-by date. See<br />

qmilk.eu.<br />

Fail a level in an arcade game and there are no real-life<br />

repercussions; it’s simply ‘Game Over’. With design student<br />

Lee Wei Chen’s new creation, there could be serious<br />

consequences for your laundry. He combined an arcade game<br />

with a washing machine to try and make mundane household<br />

chores more entertaining. If you’re no good at the game, the<br />

washing machine won’t progress to the next cycle. This design<br />

has the potential to make doing laundry highly addictive. See<br />

kingston.ac.uk.


www.lencoglobalsales.com<br />

iPT-6 iPod/iPhone docking station


THE FILES #01 UP<br />

Pin-up girl<br />

This is the work of German<br />

photographer Ivo Mayr. He<br />

shot local people in Koblenz<br />

as though they were hanging<br />

in mid-air. With some crafty<br />

digital tweaks, he then placed<br />

them against typical<br />

architecture from the city.<br />

“They are just like lost-andfound<br />

objects,” he says, “like<br />

a glove hanging on a fence”.<br />

IVOMAYR.COM<br />

Holland Herald 15


COMPLICATION MOON<br />

20020<br />

MADE IN HOLLAND - Van der Gang Watches - Postbus 102 - 9100 AC Dokkum - T +31(0)519-820220 - E info@vandergangwatches.nl - www.vandergangwatches.nl


THE FILES #02 UP<br />

Lightminded<br />

For this ‘Balloon Bench’,<br />

Japanese designers Satoshi<br />

Itasaka and Takuto Usami<br />

drew inspiration from French<br />

fi l m Le Ballon Rouge. The 1957<br />

fi lm tells the story of a boy<br />

who befriends a red balloon<br />

and roams the streets of Paris<br />

in its company. Despite<br />

appearances, the bench isn’t<br />

suspended in mid air: four<br />

hidden anchors fi rmly attach<br />

it to the ceiling and wall.<br />

SOMEWHERETOKYO.COM<br />

Holland Herald 17<br />

Words: Dolinde van Beek. Photo: Ikunori Yamamoto


THE FILES #03 UP<br />

Lady in green<br />

Where most artists focus on<br />

present or future, Swiss-<br />

Italian born artist Christian<br />

Tagliavini presents us with a<br />

window into art history. His<br />

‘1503’ series, including this<br />

Portrait of a lady in green, is<br />

inspired by the masters of<br />

the Renaissance. Tagliavini<br />

constructs the costumes<br />

himself. The tall neck is a<br />

carefully created optical<br />

illusion, rather than crafty<br />

post production.<br />

SOPHIE-MAREE.COM<br />

Holland Herald 19<br />

Words: Dolinde van Beek


THE FILES #04 UP<br />

Reach for<br />

the sky<br />

‘The Empty Chair’, Chair’, with its<br />

its<br />

ladder back reaching fi ve<br />

metres up, was created by<br />

Dutch designer designer Maarten Maarten Baas<br />

Baas<br />

for Amnesty Amnesty International. It is<br />

meant to to represent represent reaching<br />

for the sky, and the fact that<br />

freedom of expression is<br />

important for all.<br />

MAARTENBAAS.COM<br />

Holland Herald 21<br />

Words: Dolinde van Beek. Photo: Frank Tielemans


MT. KILIMANJARO<br />

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THE FILES #05 UP<br />

Flight club<br />

This unusual matchup is<br />

between a common seagull<br />

and a white-tailed eagle. The<br />

latter is a 5kg, 2m-wingspan,<br />

highly-effi cient predator, but<br />

it’s the former that has the<br />

upper wing. Gulls occasionally<br />

attack larger, predatory birds<br />

when protecting their young,<br />

and have developed a dive<br />

bombing technique that sees<br />

them sneak up behind eagles<br />

to attack, evading their<br />

deadly claws and beak.<br />

Holland Herald 23<br />

Photo: Nature Picture Library


Facts<br />

figures +<br />

Numbers, knowledge<br />

and nuggets of up info<br />

Words: Anna Whitehouse<br />

Illustrations: Sam Vanallemeersch<br />

Fly away success<br />

98% great<br />

Animated Pixar adventure<br />

Up was the best reviewed<br />

release of 2009, according<br />

to film review aggregator<br />

website Rotten Tomatoes.<br />

Some 98% of reviews for<br />

the tale of a grumpy old<br />

man who floats away<br />

by attaching balloons to<br />

his house were positive.<br />

Worldwide the film grossed<br />

a whopping $731 million.<br />

Plane crazy<br />

€3.5 million model<br />

Possibly the most elaborate<br />

model airport in the world,<br />

Knuffingen in Hamburg cost a<br />

whopping €3.5 million to make.<br />

Created by brothers Frederik and<br />

Gerrit Braun, it’s part of city<br />

attraction Miniatur Wunderland.<br />

The model is based on Hamburg<br />

Airport to a 1:87 scale, with<br />

40,000 lights, 15,000 model<br />

people, 500 cars, and 10,000<br />

trees. Some 40 planes and<br />

90 other vehicles move<br />

about at once completely<br />

autonomously, guided only<br />

by highly sophisticated<br />

processors and sensors.<br />

24 Holland Herald<br />

Fat bustard<br />

20kg bird<br />

UP<br />

The plump-breasted kori bustard (ardeotis kori)<br />

of northeast and southern Africa, and the great<br />

bustard (otis tarda) of Europe and Asia are tied<br />

for the record of world’s weightiest flying bird,<br />

each tipping the scales at an average of 18.5kg.<br />

A 20kg male great bustard was recently found<br />

in northeastern China, but the obese avian<br />

couldn’t get off the ground.<br />

“You have enemies? Good. Th at<br />

means you’ve stood up for something,<br />

sometime in your life”<br />

Winston Churchill<br />

Ear piercing<br />

8th octave<br />

Australian opera singer<br />

Adam Lopez holds the<br />

record for the highest<br />

note ever sung by<br />

a male, managing a<br />

half step above the<br />

C in the 8th octave,<br />

or a semitone above<br />

the highest note on<br />

a standard 88-key<br />

grand piano. Before<br />

emitting the ear-<br />

piercing sound live on<br />

national television, he<br />

was asked if he’d had<br />

any accidents as a<br />

child, such as landing<br />

awkwardly on the<br />

crossbar of a bicycle.<br />

He hadn’t.


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Facts<br />

figures +<br />

Float an idea<br />

One tip-toe<br />

The Balducci is a magic trick<br />

where a performer levitates in<br />

front of bewildered audience<br />

members. No one knows how<br />

the trick originated, but it’s<br />

now named after Ed Balducci<br />

who first explained its use.<br />

Rather than some mystic<br />

inspiration, the magician<br />

simply stands on tip-toe on<br />

one foot, but positions his or<br />

her audience at such an angle<br />

that it looks like levitation.<br />

David Blaine made the move<br />

popular on his early TV shows.<br />

Quick climb<br />

16h 42min hike<br />

Austrian climber Christian Stangl is<br />

reckoned to be the world’s foremost<br />

‘skyrunner’ – a mountaineer who<br />

specialises in rapid ascents of super<br />

high peaks. He made the 10km from<br />

advanced base camp to the summit<br />

of Everest in 16h 42min, reckoned to<br />

be the quickest ever, without oxygen.<br />

He reckons such climbs are more<br />

environmentally friendly, as they<br />

leave fewer camps, ropes and other<br />

kit behind.<br />

26 Holland Herald<br />

Setting the bar low<br />

2 backflips<br />

Canadian Cameron Fraser holds the<br />

world record for the most consecutive<br />

backflips on a trampoline while riding<br />

a unicycle. Since 2003, his record has<br />

stood at a less than overwhelming two.<br />

UP<br />

“Th e best way to cheer yourself up is to try<br />

to cheer somebody else up”<br />

Mark Twain<br />

High rise housing<br />

5,220m above the sea<br />

Kungi La in Kashmir,<br />

India, is thought<br />

to be the highest<br />

permanently inhabited<br />

place on earth, sitting<br />

5,220m above sea<br />

level, with a population<br />

of just over 100<br />

hardy souls farming<br />

the surrounding<br />

mountains. The highest<br />

city is reckoned to be<br />

La Rinconada, a small<br />

mining town in Peru,<br />

around 5,000m up, on<br />

a permanently<br />

frozen glacier.


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TRAVEL SWITZERLAND<br />

A VitraHaus in<br />

the hills in<br />

Weil am Rhein,<br />

outside Basel<br />

30 Holland Herald<br />

A taste


of Basel<br />

Head to Basel – a new KLM<br />

destination – to revel in its<br />

artistic peaks and design<br />

contrasts, says Anna Whitehouse<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY: MARK NIEDERMAN<br />

TRAVEL SWITZERLAND<br />

“Will I do this forever?<br />

No. Just until I die.” Th ese are the words<br />

of Basel’s fährimaa (or ferry man),<br />

Jacques Th urneysen, the captain of a<br />

creaking, engine-less boat that schleps<br />

people across the River Rhine on a<br />

rickety pulley system.<br />

A former cabinet-maker who trained<br />

to be a professional gondolier in Venice,<br />

61-year-old Th urneysen epitomises the<br />

hard graft that is synonymous with<br />

Baselites – come rain or shine, he is<br />

there, merrily rebounding off the banks<br />

of Grossbasel and Kleinebasel, the city’s<br />

two opposing sides.<br />

He also wears sandals despite the 10<br />

degree Celsius climes.<br />

A city built around the vast,<br />

meandering Rhine, locals say Basel sits<br />

on the ‘knee’ of the river, although on a<br />

map it looks more like a bulbous nose.<br />

Either way, water is of the essence in this<br />

small hub (167,000 people at the last<br />

count) in the northwest of Switzerland.<br />

Th ere are 173 ornate fountains,<br />

including one depicting a monkey<br />

guzzling wine in Andreasplatz, that<br />

punctuate the city’s winding, cobbled<br />

streets. Th ey each pump out mountainfresh<br />

H 2 0 for all and sundry to glug<br />

back, and the earthy taste is in many<br />

ways superior to the bottled variety (as<br />

is the price).<br />

Holland Herald 31


TRAVEL SWITZERLAND<br />

32 Holland Herald<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM<br />

ABOVE<br />

Jacques<br />

Thurneysen steers<br />

a course across<br />

the Rhine; the<br />

Kunstmuseum<br />

courtyard; a<br />

gargoyle sneers at<br />

the hills<br />

“We are men of tradition,”<br />

beams Herr Stefan Schiesser, a fi ft hgeneration<br />

chocolatier at Confi serie<br />

Schiesser on the town’s heaving<br />

Marktplatz. His 149-year-old shop<br />

overlooks the rustic red façade of the<br />

Town Hall, which houses a bombastic<br />

statue of a scantily-clad Munatius<br />

Plancus, the man who allegedly<br />

founded Basel under Caesar’s rule.<br />

“I tried to introduce chilli chocolate<br />

once,” he continues, “but there was a<br />

mini revolt – the belief is that we have<br />

done a good job in the fi rst place, so<br />

why mess with that?”<br />

Th is may seem blinkered, but aft er a<br />

few days nibbling truffl es from the slew<br />

of confectioners that command the<br />

city’s fi n de siècle buildings, it is easy to<br />

see his point.<br />

Th e chocolate – much like<br />

everything, right down to the bottle<br />

green trams that run with the sort of<br />

effi ciency usually reserved for military<br />

operations – is of such high quality that<br />

it requires no embellishment. Inside his<br />

ornate, sweet-smelling shop, behind the<br />

shelves of intricately-latticed sweets that<br />

look like rows of tiny, hand-decorated<br />

suburban houses, sits 93-year-old Frau<br />

Hesser, reading the Basler Zeitung, the<br />

city’s local rag.<br />

She dunks a läckerli – a honey,<br />

hazelnut, orange peel and Kirsch biscuit<br />

into a rich, frothy hot chocolate with<br />

the kind of gusto usually reserved for<br />

an E-colour-fuelled toddler. Frau<br />

Hesser comes to Schiesser every day at<br />

3.15pm, on the dot. She also knows<br />

fährimaa Jacques Th urneysen well.<br />

Small Basel may be, but its<br />

impressive roster of museums certainly<br />

puts it on the map. Rudolf Suter, a local<br />

tour guide, reckons there are 40<br />

museums. In the centre, near the<br />

imposing Munster Tower in Grossbasel,<br />

there seems to be one every 200 metres.<br />

Whether it is bones at the Natural<br />

History Museum’s suitably-named


The Natural<br />

History Museum<br />

“ Basel may be<br />

small, but its<br />

impressive<br />

roster of<br />

museums have<br />

put it on the<br />

map ”<br />

A traditional<br />

hanami, or place<br />

for viewing<br />

cherry blossom


“ Streamer not def yet! the advice ‘Never<br />

“<br />

loan your parrot’. One of the boys nods<br />

gravely in agreement ”<br />

You can spend days<br />

nibbling truffl es from the slew<br />

of confectioners that<br />

command the city’s fi n<br />

de siècle buildings ”


‘Hard Graft ’ exhibition, which<br />

centres around a pipe-smoking man<br />

called Th eo, whose skeleton was found<br />

in a recent excavation; teddy bears at<br />

the rather eerie Puppenhausmuseum,<br />

where more than 34,000 wide-eyed soft<br />

toys are cuddled up; or knock-out art<br />

(the Max Beckmann exhibition at the<br />

Kunstmuseum, running to 22 January,<br />

has silenced many a visitor), this<br />

hoarding instinct is inherent to the city.<br />

“I know someone who has 10,000<br />

Mickey Mouses,” says Dagmar Vergeat,<br />

curator of her own tiny Hoosesagg (or<br />

LEFT<br />

The chocolate box<br />

perfection of<br />

central Basel<br />

ABOVE<br />

Downhill by trotti<br />

TOP RIGHT<br />

Crossing the Rhine<br />

RIGHT<br />

Young fans of<br />

FC Basel<br />

trouser pocket) museum on Nadelberg,<br />

a narrow, historic street that was once<br />

the home of the city’s spice merchants.<br />

“And another who has a house fi lled<br />

from top to bottom with angels that he<br />

invites everyone to see at Christmas.”<br />

With her own collection of random<br />

items that includes 69 Pez dispensers,<br />

56 cartoon wine stoppers, the fi rst ever<br />

Swatch and 2,134 postcards, Vergeat, it<br />

appears, is cut from the same cloth.<br />

Th e Don of stashing, however, is the<br />

late Ernst Beyeler. A Swiss art collector<br />

with a weakness for Picasso, Monet,<br />

TRAVEL SWITZERLAND<br />

Warhol and Louise Bourgeois, he has<br />

unveiled his entire collection in a rural<br />

spot called the Fondation Beyeler.<br />

Th e building alone, designed by<br />

Italian architect Renzo Piano, is worth<br />

the 15-minute tram ride out of town; a<br />

waterlily pond outside refl ects dappled<br />

sunshine onto Monet’s famous<br />

‘Waterlily Pond’ inside.<br />

It’s the sort of art and design synergy<br />

that has secured Basel the aff ections of<br />

the art world’s elite.<br />

“I am sure I have met Warhol,”<br />

boasts Luciano, a rotund Italian<br />

Holland Herald 35


waiter with a rogueish twinkle in his<br />

eye, who has worked in Chez Donati, for<br />

34 years.<br />

Th ere’s no pomp or ceremony as<br />

Luciano dollops vanilla crème onto a<br />

plate with the panache of a dinner lady<br />

serving up sausages and mash. His silverdomed<br />

dessert tray brimming with<br />

tiramisu, plum tart and chocolate torte,<br />

however, is worthy of exhibition space.<br />

Food here is rustic, hearty and<br />

designed for adventurous folk looking to<br />

scramble up the nearby Wasserfallen, a<br />

hiking spot in the Jura Mountains,<br />

45-minutes out of town. A short cable<br />

36 Holland Herald<br />

HERE<br />

The Nautral History<br />

Museum<br />

TOP RIGHT<br />

Hiking outside the city<br />

car ride up a postcard-perfect<br />

mountainside that looks like a scene<br />

from an intricate Constable painting,<br />

and you’re deposited at the start of this<br />

popular climb.<br />

Th e silence here is only penetrated by<br />

the occasional belch from a post-fondue<br />

climber. “Pardon me,” chortles Andreas<br />

Gilman, a hulking fi gure, swaddled in<br />

high-tech Gortex.<br />

“I ate my lunch too quickly,” he<br />

bellows cheerily before greeting a fellow<br />

walker with a fi rm “Grüezi”, and<br />

pushing on through a leafy thicket,<br />

followed by his slightly more athletic<br />

sheepdog Heinrich.<br />

Grand designs<br />

The birthplace of<br />

architects Jacques Herzog<br />

and Pierre de Meuron –<br />

designers of London’s<br />

Tate Modern and Beijing’s<br />

Olympic Stadium – Basel is<br />

shaping up to be as<br />

signifi cant in modernist<br />

terms as nearby La<br />

Chaux-de-Fonds, Le<br />

Corbusier’s birthplace.<br />

View the Stellwerk signal<br />

box, their most revered<br />

Basel work, from the<br />

Munchensteiner railway<br />

bridge: this shimmering<br />

hulk of a building is<br />

sheathed in horizontal<br />

copper strips, twisted to<br />

allow daylight to<br />

penetrate.<br />

The art and design<br />

themes continue over the<br />

border in Germany. A<br />

20-minute bus journey<br />

towards Weil am Rhein<br />

(make sure to bring your<br />

passport), offers up Vitra<br />

Design Museum, a<br />

veritable Mecca to<br />

furniture design, from<br />

Shaker style through<br />

Rietveld and Charles<br />

Eames to Robert Venturi.


Basel fact fi le<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates two direct daily<br />

fl ights to Basel/Mulhouse<br />

EuroAirport from Amsterdam<br />

Airport Schiphol.<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

The 19th-century Krafft<br />

(hotelkrafft.ch) sits in an<br />

enviable spot on the Rhine.<br />

Chic and contemporary, it<br />

is in a great location for<br />

navigating both Grossbasel<br />

and Kleinbasel and is<br />

where author Hermann<br />

Hesse penned the novel<br />

Steppenwolf. Arty folk should<br />

For everything that goes up, there<br />

must be a way down, and for the last<br />

two years the best way to descend this<br />

grassy monolith is on a green, selfpowered<br />

scooter called a trotti. Red<br />

helmets strapped on, the hordes of<br />

euphoric hikers that take this<br />

unconventional route down resemble<br />

Christmas elves, as their cajoling and<br />

squawking echoes gently around the<br />

try the Teufelhof (teufelhof.<br />

com): a different artist has<br />

decked out each of the nine<br />

rooms, so you might find<br />

yourself sleeping next to a<br />

modernist painting, avante<br />

garde sculpture, or post<br />

modern light installation.<br />

WHAT TO DO<br />

The annual Fasnacht festival<br />

(fasnacht.ch) in February is<br />

one of the city’s biggest pulls.<br />

At 4am at the beginning of<br />

this three-day shindig, all<br />

streetlights are turned out,<br />

hordes of drummers and<br />

piccolo players congregate<br />

and the party begins. For a<br />

more sophisticated night on<br />

Painting: Successió Miró/ProLitteris<br />

N<br />

Europe<br />

Switzerland<br />

Basel<br />

EuroAirport<br />

the tiles, the Kunsthalle art<br />

gallery (kunsthallebasel.ch)<br />

offers up mojitos and arty<br />

merriment. The city’s bright<br />

young things tend to gather<br />

at hot new spot Acqua<br />

(acquabasilea.ch), a bar in a<br />

former waterworks.<br />

TRAVEL SWITZERLAND<br />

moss-covered, rocky ravines. Th e sheer<br />

rush of weaving down a mountain<br />

alongside a babbling river is worth the<br />

hour-long slog up to the peak.<br />

Th e trotti may be a bold new venture<br />

for this traditional province, but with the<br />

wind in your hair and the orange-yellow<br />

glow of the sun setting on the snowcapped<br />

mountains ahead, there’s a chance<br />

even the fährimaa might like it. v<br />

Basel<br />

Rhine<br />

Grossbasel<br />

Basel<br />

Kleinbasel<br />

DON’T FORGET<br />

This magazine is yours to<br />

keep, or you can read the<br />

article at holland-herald.com.<br />

FURTHER INFORMATION<br />

basel.com<br />

myswitzerland.com<br />

Holland Herald 37<br />

Map: Allan Grotjohann


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On the<br />

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Introducing a new<br />

generation of hotshots<br />

from Dutch ‘school of<br />

cool’, Design Academy<br />

Eindhoven<br />

WORDS: ANNEMARIE HOEVE<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY: FULCO SMIT ROETERS<br />

Who: KYRA VAN INEVELD,<br />

THE NETHERLANDS (BA)<br />

What: Tracking ‘the truth’<br />

in Wikipedia<br />

DESIGN UP<br />

“My project is about<br />

the transitory nature of<br />

information. Fifty years<br />

ago, everyone had an<br />

encyclopedia at home.<br />

You didn’t think about<br />

what was ‘true’. With<br />

Wikipedia, the wisdom<br />

of the crowd ensures<br />

that ‘the truth’ changes<br />

every second. We’ve<br />

become continuous<br />

curators of our own<br />

reality. To illustrate this,<br />

I chose the five biggest<br />

topics on Wikipedia<br />

that have changed<br />

the most. I printed<br />

out all of the pages,<br />

including the edits, and<br />

bound them into five<br />

new encyclopedias.<br />

The documents were<br />

so big, my computer<br />

crashed and my printer<br />

was on day and night<br />

for two full weeks.<br />

The topics are: Barack<br />

Obama (2,706 pages),<br />

the Catholic Church<br />

(2,602 pages), the war<br />

in Gaza (2,289 pages),<br />

Global Warming (2,168<br />

pages) and ‘Race and<br />

Intelligence’ (1,876<br />

pages). The contributor<br />

lists alone contain<br />

thousands of names.<br />

I sometimes wish that<br />

we could go back to the<br />

past, when you could<br />

depend on the word of<br />

a handful of ‘experts’.”<br />

Holland Herald 39


Who: JUAN MONTERO<br />

VALDES, UK (MA)<br />

What: Hacking household<br />

appliances<br />

“We have so many highly-engineered machines<br />

in our homes that we use in a monotonous<br />

way. You could get much more out of them<br />

by making them work together. To get people<br />

thinking about this, I made and printed my own<br />

money using only household appliances. I used a<br />

blender and pressure cooker to make paper from<br />

old jeans and sheets. Then I made red ink in a<br />

coffeemaker from food in my kitchen and hooked<br />

it up to my printer. But there are so many other<br />

things you could do, like use the rotary motion of<br />

your washing machine to make thread from lint<br />

collected in your dryer. You just need the right<br />

attitude.” See studioneedsmust.com.<br />

40 Holland Herald<br />

Who: JOOST GEHEM,<br />

THE NETHERLANDS (BA)<br />

What: New furniture from<br />

old interiors<br />

“I use unwanted interiors as a<br />

raw material: the things that<br />

are left over after a divorce<br />

or when someone moves<br />

to a retirement home, or<br />

dies. Instead of condemning<br />

everything to the rubbish<br />

tip, I put it in a shredder, mix<br />

it with epoxy and, using an<br />

old East-German paper press<br />

I converted, I mould it into a<br />

different product – like these<br />

stools. It’s a way of giving<br />

them a new life. Sometimes<br />

people want to hold on to<br />

things that have a personal<br />

value to them, but they don’t<br />

have the space. In this way,<br />

they still have a keepsake. I<br />

like the idea of turning what<br />

might be a negative event<br />

into something positive.”<br />

See joostgehemdesign.com.<br />

“Unlike regular sneakers that<br />

are glued and stitched, these<br />

shoes have been designed to<br />

be disassembled. That means<br />

that when one of the parts<br />

wears out, you can repair it<br />

yourself. I chose traditional<br />

repair techniques like felting,<br />

patching and darning to<br />

reinforce the parts of the<br />

shoe that are easily damaged.<br />

Each design comes with its<br />

own special repair kit. You<br />

can choose the technique<br />

that appeals to you most. My<br />

aim isn’t only to make the<br />

shoes last longer, but also<br />

to get the tools for fixing<br />

things back in the house. Our<br />

grandmothers used to have<br />

all the right gear at home. If<br />

you had a hole in your sock,<br />

you’d repair it. Now you just<br />

throw it away, because often<br />

you don’t even have the right<br />

materials. Once you have the<br />

tools, you can also use them<br />

to fix other things.”<br />

See eumo.it.<br />

Who: EUGENIA MORPURGO,<br />

ITALY (MA)<br />

What: Fix-themyourself<br />

shoes


“ You have no idea what goes on<br />

behind the scenes to keep your feet dry ”<br />

DESIGN UP<br />

Who: GERO ASMUTH,<br />

GERMANY (BA)<br />

What: Water signs<br />

“These signs are to<br />

help make people<br />

more aware of the<br />

work being done to<br />

control water levels<br />

in The Netherlands. I<br />

made a whole series<br />

of graphic icons. For<br />

example, one of them<br />

shows how flood<br />

plains keep cities<br />

dry, another shows<br />

a man lifting up a<br />

river, illustrating how<br />

rivers are re-routed.<br />

The one showing a<br />

man holding back<br />

a wave is actually<br />

going to be used at<br />

several locations in<br />

the Dommel area<br />

of The Netherlands.<br />

Much of the country<br />

is under sea level, but<br />

just by looking at the<br />

landscape, you have<br />

no idea what goes on<br />

behind the scenes to<br />

keep your feet dry.”<br />

Holland Herald 41


DESIGN UP<br />

42 Holland Herald<br />

Who: MASSOUD<br />

HASSANI,<br />

AFGHANISTAN AND<br />

THE NETHERLANDS (BA)<br />

What: Child’s toy becomes<br />

anti-landmine sweeper<br />

“I grew up in<br />

Afghanistan and, as a<br />

child, I used to make<br />

wind-powered toys.<br />

Sometimes they’d be<br />

blown into a minefield<br />

and I wouldn’t be able<br />

to get them. There were<br />

lots of landmines, and<br />

friends around me were<br />

getting hurt daily. This<br />

is like a new version of<br />

one of those early toys.<br />

Each ball is light enough<br />

to be blown by the wind<br />

and has 220 bamboo<br />

legs that can set off<br />

any hidden mines. It’s<br />

estimated that there<br />

are about 10 million<br />

anti-personnel mines<br />

in the border region<br />

between Afghanistan<br />

and Pakistan. But<br />

they’re a problem in<br />

many countries, like<br />

Angola, where there<br />

are believed to be<br />

20 million landmines.<br />

With a population of 12<br />

million, that’s almost<br />

two mines per person.<br />

People can’t use their<br />

own gardens – there’s<br />

so much land that’s<br />

being wasted. I’m<br />

currently testing the<br />

models in the field and<br />

refining my design. One<br />

of my new devices is<br />

cylindrical, so it can<br />

cover more ground.” See<br />

massoudhassani.com.


PSYCHOLOGY UP<br />

The height of<br />

happiness<br />

Whether little or lanky, height can have a<br />

profound effect on our relationship with the world.<br />

Mark Smith cuts a long story short<br />

The third tallest man in Th e Netherlands is resting<br />

his hand on me, and it feels as if someone has strapped an<br />

uncooked 1kg steak to my shoulder. Olivier Richters, 22 years<br />

old and 2 metres 17cm in his socks, has spent the aft ernoon<br />

modelling outsized clothes at the annual conference of the<br />

Klub Lange Mensen (literally, the ‘club for tall people’). Now,<br />

he poses dutifully for photos, spurred on by his father-slashmanager,<br />

a man of average height but intense pride, who is<br />

distributing business cards featuring snaps of a strapping<br />

Olivier, muscles clenched beneath the banner ‘Dutch Giant:<br />

Taller! Bigger! Stronger!’<br />

Olivier – a postgraduate student in Information Sciences<br />

at the University of Utrecht – goes on to confi de, somewhat<br />

bashfully, that he is frequently booked for red carpet<br />

appearances on account of his extravagant stature, which is<br />

extreme even among the Dutch, the tallest people on earth.<br />

Helpfully, Richter senior is on hand to corroborate, with an<br />

extensive photo album. Here’s Olivier towering over the original<br />

cast of Th e A-Team. Here’s Olivier on the set of the national<br />

lottery show, during which contestants were challenged to<br />

guess his height. Here’s Olivier in his capacity as spokesperson<br />

for a chain of muscle-building gyms. Height, it seems, is an<br />

advertising byword for might.<br />

Behind us, a TV interview with a female delegate is in<br />

session. She talks animatedly about the myriad challenges<br />

facing tall people – the perilous, low-hanging street signs, the<br />

hurtful playground jibes, the fact that, even in Th e Netherlands,<br />

44 Holland Herald<br />

“it’s almost impossible to shop at an indoor market without<br />

taking a safety helmet with you” – as well as the benefi ts (“I’ve<br />

never had a bad seat at the theatre,” she off ers). Th e news<br />

station seems to have dispatched the shortest anchor possible,<br />

who cranes his neck for comic comparative eff ect. Th e boom<br />

mic operator is wobbling perilously on a high step.<br />

Like it or not, we’re fascinated by height, and by the<br />

unspoken hierarchy that it may or may not imply. Surely it<br />

can be no coincidence that the heroes of romantic fi ction are<br />

described as ‘tall, dark and handsome’, in that particular order?<br />

Participants in the fi eld of online dating – both male and female<br />

– are known to exaggerate their height at least as much as they<br />

do their salaries. And when it comes to the top job on earth,<br />

the American electorate typically favours the taller presidential<br />

candidate over his shorter competitor. One question remains,<br />

though. Why?<br />

Professor George Maat of the Leiden University Medical<br />

Centre may have some clues as to the answer. A lecturer who’s<br />

travelled extensively, he was struck by the internationally held<br />

perception that Dutch people are on an endless upward vertical<br />

trajectory: “It’s very clear just from looking at families today<br />

that Dutch youths are, on average, taller than their parents, who<br />

are in turn taller than their parents,” he reports.<br />

Keen to establish whether this had always been the case,<br />

Professor Maat set about investigating the height of Dutch<br />

men throughout history, via an unprecedented course of


Illustrations Pete Gamelen for Dutch Uncle


PSYCHOLOGY UP<br />

research that evaluated census data, military conscription<br />

records and even the measurement of exhumed skeletons from<br />

around Th e Netherlands, some of which date back 2,000 years.<br />

“You have to subtract a centimetre or two,” Maats confi des of<br />

his grave-digging escapades, “because muscle tension fails aft er<br />

death, and the S-shape of the spine fl attens out, lengthening the<br />

dead body unnaturally.” Seems I may have to wait for the arrival<br />

of the Reaper before I get my own long hoped-for growth spurt.<br />

To cut a long story short, Maat’s research revealed that, far<br />

from growing exponentially with time, the Dutch populace has<br />

actually been shrinking throughout the majority of its recorded<br />

history – a trend that has only been reversed during the last 180<br />

years or so.<br />

“Even during the fabled Golden Age of economic<br />

expansion,” Maat tells me, “Dutch people were, on the whole,<br />

getting shorter.” Th at’s because, although an increase in height is<br />

generally held to be the result of improved childhood nutrition<br />

and good health, it took the industrial revolution to bring such<br />

advantages to the masses: “Before that point, it was interesting<br />

to see that unusual height was an advantage bestowed<br />

exclusively on the cultural elite such as Amsterdam’s merchant<br />

class.” Medieval monks, for example, recruited mainly from the<br />

Dutch aristocracy, were on average 2cm taller than the rest of<br />

the population: “Th at may not sound like a big deal, but it is,”<br />

says Maat.<br />

46 Holland Herald<br />

In the th developed world at least, the advent of<br />

supermarket sup sustenance and near-universal healthcare means<br />

that, tha post-WWII, height is no longer a reliable indicator of<br />

any one person’s breeding. But our brains don’t seem to have<br />

received rece c the anthropological memo yet.<br />

According A to Vincenzo Carrieri of the University of<br />

Salerno, Sa Sale co-author of the recent study Th e Eff ect of People’s<br />

Height He H i and Relative Height on Well-being, we’re still hardwired<br />

wir to equate loft iness with loveliness, resulting in a<br />

cultural cult consensus that can have a profound eff ect on the<br />

self-esteem self of the individual.<br />

In his native Italy, where a well-known proverb states<br />

that ‘half of a person’s beauty resides in his height’<br />

(altezza mezza bellezza), Carrieri set about monitoring<br />

the ha happiness of individuals of diff erent stature, concluding<br />

that taller t people – young men in particular – were, by and<br />

large,<br />

more satisfi ed in their lives, more likely to report positive<br />

emoti emotions such as enjoyment and happiness, and less likely to<br />

repor report feelings of sadness, anger and stress.<br />

What came as more of a surprise was the discovery that<br />

our sense of height is largely relative: “Much depends on your<br />

immediate surroundings. People care not only about their<br />

actual height, but also about the height of people in their<br />

immediate reference group.”<br />

All of the above has left me wondering how Dutch<br />

society’s shortest members must feel about their place amid the<br />

tallest people on earth. So I call Annalies Harenberg, chairman<br />

of the 300-strong Belangenvereniging van Kleine Mensen or<br />

BvKM (you guessed it, the Dutch ‘club for short people’) to get<br />

her unique perspective.<br />

Harenberg has a genetic condition known achondroplasia –<br />

dwarfi sm, in lay terms – and has endured some pretty miserable<br />

treatment on account of her 153cm frame: “People sometimes<br />

mistake a small body for a small brain; shopkeepers will quite<br />

oft en patronise me, they talk to me as if I’m a young child,” she<br />

says. Her response? “I give as good as I get,” she chuckles. “I can<br />

be quite a bitch when I want to be!”<br />

Regardless of the practical challenges she may face,<br />

Harenberg, 50, has a fulfi lling career as a hospital technician<br />

(“the white coat certainly lends me authority”) and judges horseriding<br />

competitions in her spare time, having only recently<br />

given up the saddle herself. She is happily married to a man she<br />

met online (“I told him early on that I was short; it doesn’t seem<br />

to have made a diff erence”) and enjoys her role at the BvKM,<br />

where she encourages members to take their size in their stride.<br />

“When it comes to self-pity, I think life’s too short,” she<br />

concludes. A sentiment that most would agree with, regardless<br />

of their height. v


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TRAVEL BRAZIL<br />

48 Holland Herald<br />

Grand<br />

From a chic beach to boho back alleys and a jungle<br />

reclaiming the streets, Mark Eveleigh explores remarkable Rio<br />

Rio’s famous<br />

Ipanema Beach<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY: TATIANA CARDEAL/THE WIDE ANGLE


Rio<br />

TRAVEL BRAZIL<br />

Holland Herald 49


TRAVEL BRAZIL<br />

RIGHT<br />

Beachwear for sale;<br />

the serene greenery<br />

of Santa Teresa<br />

“ Januário sells bikinis of all<br />

sizes, from ‘mini-mangoes’ up ”<br />

“Just take your time and fi nd your ginga,”<br />

Wagner Rocha Gonçalves is telling me. Ginga translates as<br />

‘rhythm’ in Portuguese, and is vital to the Brazilian martial art<br />

of capoeira.<br />

Performed well, capoeira is a graceful but potentially lethal<br />

Brazilian backstreet ballet… but I’m not famed for my grace nor<br />

my ginga. Th e traditional single-stringed berimbau is beating<br />

out a hypnotic beat, but there seems to be a terrible breakdown<br />

in communications somewhere between my eardrums and my<br />

erratically scuffi ng feet.<br />

Th e tropical pace of life in Rio de Janeiro has a way of putting<br />

a swagger in your step, but it seems that I am still ill-equipped<br />

for a battle of rhythm with even the clumsiest Carioca, or native<br />

of Rio.<br />

“Capoeira was conceived in Angola,” Wagner had explained<br />

earlier, at the start of training on the beach, “but it grew up on<br />

the slave plantations of Brazil, and is now one of the most widely<br />

exported parts of our culture.”<br />

Wagner himself grew up in the favelas that sprawl up the hills<br />

just a couple of miles west of chic Ipanema. His friendly chatter<br />

and ready smile seem at odds with his fame as an ultimate<br />

fi ghting champion. He works as a physiotherapist, but his fi rst<br />

love is the capoeira that he teaches to his neighbours and, at<br />

times, to clumsy tourists.<br />

50 Holland Herald<br />

“Historically, capoeira was developed as a way for an escaped<br />

slave to protect himself without weapons,” he explained. “It was<br />

outlawed and the slaves tried to camoufl age it as a dance.<br />

Capoeiristas who were arrested were tortured to get the names<br />

of others.”<br />

Th e fi ghters were forced to be cunning, and malícia (malice<br />

or trickery) is still one of the central tenets of the martial art.<br />

I keep my centre of gravity low – still trying to fi nd that<br />

elusive rhythm – and, as instructed, try to swing a kick over<br />

Wagner’s head. But my balance is off and all I manage is a solid<br />

thunk with my heel onto the back of his bowed skull.<br />

Although it wasn’t done with deliberate malícia, I am aware<br />

that this is almost certainly the only time I will ever kick a cagefi<br />

ghting champ in the head.<br />

I decide to quit while I am ahead. Despite his words of praise<br />

as we part, I suspect that Wagner doesn’t see much of a future for<br />

me as a capoeirista.<br />

At a beachside gym on the great scimitar of white sand<br />

that is Ipanema, I meet another capoeirista called Tião. Th e<br />

beach is divided into sections that are known by their coastguard<br />

posts and this is Posto 10. Farther up is Posto 9, where the<br />

beautiful people hang out. It was just one block back from here<br />

that the song Girl from Ipanema was written. Beyond that is


A proliferation<br />

of local artists<br />

has made<br />

Santa Teresa<br />

one of the<br />

city’s coolest<br />

areas<br />

TRAVEL BRAZIL<br />

Holland Herald 51


the gay section near Posto 8, and next to Copacabana Beach,<br />

you fi nd Posto 7, the surfi ng area. “Posto 10 is probably the most<br />

laid back area,” Tião laughs. “Th is is the lazy section.”<br />

Down on the sand, four quick-fi re volleyball games are<br />

underway, and a group of men are playing beach football. Th e<br />

cycle track behind me is thick with cyclists, skaters,<br />

skateboarders, joggers and speed-walkers. Tião smiles as he<br />

reads my thoughts. “Well, they do say that Ipanema’s the<br />

healthiest beach in the world...” he says.<br />

From sunrise to sunset, Ipanema is a permanent procession<br />

of sporty-looking bodies. At times, the promenade here could<br />

almost be a conveyor belt out of some utopian factory dedicated<br />

to the creation of the perfect body.<br />

Apart from people-watching, one of the most spectacular<br />

sports on Ipanema is futevolei (or foot-volley). It was created as a<br />

reaction to a law against soccer on the beach in the early 1960s;<br />

the players would use the ‘camoufl age’ of a volleyball court to<br />

avoid the police.<br />

Players compete in pairs, and the ball is kept in play using<br />

any part of the body apart from the hands and arms. On<br />

Ipanema, you can see both men and women exhibiting a level of<br />

skill that is rarely seen even across town in Rio’s historic<br />

Maracanã stadium.<br />

Of course, there are many who prefer simply to relax. Th ey<br />

rent parasols and buy provisions from barraqueiros, the (oft en<br />

elderly) ‘beach-boys’ who sell traditional Globo biscuits and<br />

refreshing maté tea. Men dressed in Arabic costumes shuffl e<br />

through the sand selling little triangles of meat-stuff ed esfi ha,<br />

similar to somosas. Fift y-three year old Januário sells other<br />

triangles: “Bikinis of all sizes,” he says, “right from minimangoes<br />

up to triple-handful.”<br />

His friend Antonio has spent half his life patrolling Ipanema’s<br />

iconic black-and-white pavements selling his cangas (sarongs).<br />

“So many people come here running and cycling…” he says,<br />

“but I have probably covered more miles of Ipanema than<br />

anyone alive.”<br />

Th ere is very little that happens on the beach that Antonio<br />

and Januário don’t know about. Th e waitresses in the beachside<br />

kiosks, serving caipirinha cocktails round-the-clock, call them<br />

the unoffi cial mayors of Ipanema.<br />

This picture-perfect patch is only eight blocks long, and is<br />

bordered on three sides by water: the sea, the lake and the<br />

adjoining river. On the fourth are the rocks that separate it from<br />

Copacabana. Ipanema might be part of a city that is seven<br />

million strong, but it’s also one of the most privileged villages in<br />

the world.<br />

52 Holland Herald


“ This is almost certainly the only<br />

time I will ever kick a cage-fi ghting<br />

champ in the head ”<br />

CLOCKWISE,<br />

FROM BELOW<br />

Capoeira on the<br />

beach; surfing<br />

the Posto 7 strip;<br />

Rio’s muscle beach;<br />

Santa Teresa<br />

street art<br />

TRAVEL BRAZIL<br />

Holland Herald 53


TRAVEL BRAZIL<br />

Rio’s<br />

highpoints<br />

Portuguese explorer<br />

Gaspar de Lemos was the<br />

fi rst European to feast his<br />

eyes on what has been<br />

called the world’s most<br />

beautiful bay. With<br />

complete lack of<br />

imagination however, he<br />

named it simply ‘January<br />

River’ (later discovering<br />

that it wasn’t even a river).<br />

Few of the hundreds of<br />

thousands of tourists who<br />

ride the cable car up to<br />

Pão de Açúcar or take a<br />

‘pilgrimage’ up to visit<br />

Christ the Redeemer on his<br />

Corcovado mountain<br />

crow’s-nest, would be so<br />

devoid of inspiration. The<br />

skyline of Rio is a sight<br />

you will never forget. The<br />

original inhabitants knew<br />

the bay as Guanabara,<br />

which is often translated<br />

as ‘the bosom of the sea’.<br />

They knew what they<br />

were talking about.<br />

54 Holland Herald<br />

MAIN<br />

The tranquil Santa<br />

Teresa area is a<br />

starting point for<br />

many hikes;<br />

TOP RIGHT<br />

Mountains meet<br />

the city; hiking in<br />

Tijuca


TRAVEL BRAZIL<br />

“ There’s no big city in the world that offers<br />

such wonderful jungle-trekking ”<br />

On the northern corner of Praça General Osório is<br />

Amazônia Soul, a tiny restaurant that specialises in the culinary<br />

delights of the jungle. Th ere is the tangy tacacá soup, fl oating<br />

with globs of ‘tapioca glue,’ and vatapá (fi sh with coconut milk,<br />

prawns and fl our), served with boiled jambo. Th is plant is<br />

famous in Brazil for the bizarre way in which it renders the<br />

mouth numb.<br />

Aft er dinner, Gustavo, Amazônia Soul’s enthusiastic young<br />

manager, might off er a small glass of jambo liqueur. “It’s only<br />

mildly alcoholic,” he says, “but the eff ect is like an orgasm for<br />

your tongue.”<br />

Th e description seems like hyperbole, but when you can<br />

fi nally talk again – eyes glazed and tongue quivering – it<br />

becomes clear there is no better way to describe the experience.<br />

Th e speciality of the house though is açaí, the Amazonian<br />

‘super-fruit’ sought aft er by athletes and bodybuilders that is<br />

usually served as a sweet, chilled puree. It is hard to believe that<br />

something so delicious can be so healthy.<br />

If Rio de Janeiro were a person, then Ipanema would be a<br />

pair of strong, tanned legs and the hilltop quarter of Santa<br />

Teresa, with its lush gardens, would take in the vital organs all<br />

the way from the lungs to the brain.<br />

Th is neighbourhood rises out of the hot-blooded Lapa<br />

quarter (which, with its permanently swaying samba<br />

soundtrack, might well be Rio’s hips).<br />

Santa Teresa is the city’s bohemian and artistic centre and is<br />

the best place to take in Rio’s art scene, whether in formal<br />

galleries or through vibrant street-graffi ti.<br />

On Saturdays, Cariocas from all over the city come here to<br />

eat the delicious feijoada stew – a delicious explosion of pork<br />

and beans. Others come simply to sip caipirinhas made with<br />

cachaça (sugarcane spirit) mixed with limes and guava, mango<br />

or pineapple.<br />

Sobrenatural is a Santa Teresa institution, famed for its<br />

seafood: you might not be tempted by the bizarrely named<br />

punheta de bacalhau (roughly ‘masturbation of cod’), but grilled<br />

surubim fi sh with coconut milk is unforgettable served with<br />

‘Brazilian banana, Brazilian potato and Brazil nuts’.<br />

Rio remains a jungle city, and nowhere is this more evident<br />

than in Santa Teresa, where decadent old colonial mansions<br />

stand as the fi rst barricades in a never-ending battle against<br />

encroaching nature.<br />

Parrots squawk in the treetops, ferns force their shoots<br />

through the cracked walls, and bromeliads send down aerial<br />

roots from the overhead tram cables.<br />

In the garden of the lovely Cafecito Café, you can almost<br />

hear the lush tropical vegetation growing. It’s like the jungle is<br />

waiting to reclaim the cobbled alleys.<br />

And immediately beyond Santa Teresa, the jungle does take<br />

over. Rio is home to the world’s two biggest urban rainforests,<br />

and the phrase ‘concrete jungle’ takes on a new meaning.<br />

Holland Herald 55


TRAVEL BRAZIL<br />

Ipanema<br />

Beach<br />

Tijuca National Park was once coff ee plantations, but<br />

was replanted by slaves in 19th century and is now the world’s<br />

biggest man-made forest. Nature was quick to reclaim these<br />

forests, which are now home to a wonderful variety of birdlife,<br />

monkeys (including the rare white tuft ed-ear marmoset),<br />

ocelot, sloth, anteater, iguana and the raccoon-like coati.<br />

Th e climb to Pico da Tijuca takes just half a day, but off ers<br />

views across the skyline that will haunt you for a lifetime.<br />

Below and to one side are the terraced fl anks of Santa Teresa<br />

and seaward, the sparkling Rodrigo de Freitas lake and<br />

Ipanema. Draped across the hilltops and lining the shaded<br />

valleys are the still extensive forests of Rio.<br />

“Th ere’s no big city in the world that off ers such wonderful<br />

jungle-trekking,” says guide Raf Kiss. “From up here, you can<br />

get a good idea of just how ‘wild’ Rio de Janeiro is even today.”<br />

Saudade is one of the most purely Brazilian words you will<br />

ever hear. It is the soul of the Brazilian instinct for romance,<br />

and is oft en described as a painful, heartfelt longing or<br />

homesickness. It is a word that is notoriously hard to translate.<br />

Just stay in Rio long enough to fall completely in love with it…<br />

aft er you leave, you will understand. v<br />

56 Holland Herald<br />

Rio fact fi le<br />

N<br />

Rio de Janeiro<br />

GETTING THERE<br />

KLM operates three direct<br />

weekly fl ights to Rio<br />

Internacional from Amsterdam<br />

Airport Schiphol.<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

In Ipanema, Mango Tree<br />

Hostel (mangotreehostel.com)<br />

offers comfortable suites and<br />

a welcoming atmosphere just<br />

a block from Ipanema’s Posto<br />

9 epicentre. The gardens are<br />

pleasant communal areas for<br />

breakfast and evening drinks.<br />

In Santa Teresa, the immense<br />

master suite in the sprawling<br />

old hillside townhouse that<br />

is Rio Hostel (riohostel.com)<br />

has views of Santa Teresa,<br />

Lapa and the towers of the<br />

business centre. The poolside<br />

Brazil<br />

South<br />

America<br />

Atlantic Ocean<br />

Rio Interncional<br />

Airport<br />

Ipanema Copacabana<br />

Beach<br />

Rio de Janeiro<br />

bar on the roof is the place<br />

to fi nd what might well be the<br />

best tropical fruit caipirinhas<br />

in all Rio.<br />

WHAT TO DO<br />

Capoeira master Wagner<br />

Rocha Gonçalves teaches<br />

either on the beach or<br />

in his centre in Rocinha<br />

favela. He can be contacted<br />

through the Mango Tree<br />

(mangotreehostel.com).<br />

For trekking, Raf Kiss<br />

(mirantes-mototravel.com)<br />

specialises in motorcycle<br />

tours but, for those who want<br />

to take in the sights at an<br />

infi nitely slower pace, he is a<br />

knowledgeable and amusing<br />

guide for treks through all the<br />

great parks of Rio.<br />

Additional photography: Corbis. Map: Allan Grotjohann


TRAVEL BRAZIL<br />

Ipanema<br />

Beach<br />

Tijuca National Park was once coff ee plantations, but<br />

was replanted by slaves in 19th century and is now the world’s<br />

biggest man-made forest. Nature was quick to reclaim these<br />

forests, which are now home to a wonderful variety of birdlife,<br />

monkeys (including the rare white tuft ed-ear marmoset),<br />

ocelot, sloth, anteater, iguana and the raccoon-like coati.<br />

Th e climb to Pico da Tijuca takes just half a day, but off ers<br />

views across the skyline that will haunt you for a lifetime.<br />

Below and to one side are the terraced fl anks of Santa Teresa<br />

and seaward, the sparkling Rodrigo de Freitas lake and<br />

Ipanema. Draped across the hilltops and lining the shaded<br />

valleys are the still extensive forests of Rio.<br />

“Th ere’s no big city in the world that off ers such wonderful<br />

jungle-trekking,” says guide Raf Kiss. “From up here, you can<br />

get a good idea of just how ‘wild’ Rio de Janeiro is even today.”<br />

Saudade is one of the most purely Brazilian words you will<br />

ever hear. It is the soul of the Brazilian instinct for romance,<br />

and is oft en described as a painful, heartfelt longing or<br />

homesickness. It is a word that is notoriously hard to translate.<br />

Just stay in Rio long enough to fall completely in love with it…<br />

aft er you leave, you will understand. v<br />

56 Holland Herald<br />

Rio fact fi le<br />

N<br />

Rio de Janeiro<br />

GETTING THERE<br />

KLM operates three direct<br />

weekly fl ights to Rio<br />

Internacional from Amsterdam<br />

Airport Schiphol.<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

In Ipanema, Mango Tree<br />

Hostel (mangotreehostel.com)<br />

offers comfortable suites and<br />

a welcoming atmosphere just<br />

a block from Ipanema’s Posto<br />

9 epicentre. The gardens are<br />

pleasant communal areas for<br />

breakfast and evening drinks.<br />

In Santa Teresa, the immense<br />

master suite in the sprawling<br />

old hillside townhouse that<br />

is Rio Hostel (riohostel.com)<br />

has views of Santa Teresa,<br />

Lapa and the towers of the<br />

business centre. The poolside<br />

Brazil<br />

South<br />

America<br />

Atlantic Ocean<br />

Rio Interncional<br />

Airport<br />

Ipanema Copacabana<br />

Beach<br />

Rio de Janeiro<br />

bar on the roof is the place<br />

to fi nd what might well be the<br />

best tropical fruit caipirinhas<br />

in all Rio.<br />

WHAT TO DO<br />

Capoeira master Wagner<br />

Rocha Gonçalves teaches<br />

either on the beach or<br />

in his centre in Rocinha<br />

favela. He can be contacted<br />

through the Mango Tree<br />

(mangotreehostel.com).<br />

For trekking, Raf Kiss<br />

(mirantes-mototravel.com)<br />

specialises in motorcycle<br />

tours but, for those who want<br />

to take in the sights at an<br />

infi nitely slower pace, he is a<br />

knowledgeable and amusing<br />

guide for treks through all the<br />

great parks of Rio.<br />

Additional photography: Corbis. Map: Allan Grotjohann


Sentimental journeys<br />

For aviation enthusiasts, nothing quite beats owning<br />

your very own vintage plane. Andy Round enters a world<br />

of beloved bi-planes and spruced-up Spitfi res<br />

Paul Warren Wilson makes<br />

owning a plane sound like a lot<br />

of fun. “So we loaded up, took<br />

off from England and fl ew down<br />

to South America,” he says. “We<br />

went all over the place.” Where? “Oh,<br />

Bolivia, Barbados… Th ere’s a lot of room in<br />

the Catalina, it was built for long distances<br />

and because it’s amphibian, it has the added<br />

advantage of being able to land on water,<br />

close to beaches.”<br />

Warren Wilson’s Catalina was built for<br />

the Royal Canadian Air Force in 1943 and<br />

used for hunting submarines in World War<br />

II. Aft er being decommissioned, it was<br />

transformed into a ‘water-bombing’<br />

Canadian fi re fi ghter. Warren Wilson and a<br />

few friends then came across the plane in<br />

2002, paid CAN$275,000 (€200,000) for it<br />

and then spent “probably the same again”<br />

on modifi cations.<br />

“It’s a real privilege to fl y such a piece of<br />

aviation history,” says the former<br />

professional pilot. “Th ere are only a handful<br />

left , and we always get an emotional<br />

response from people who come on board<br />

when we go to air shows.”<br />

So what’s it like to fl y this piece of<br />

aviation history? “It’s fun. Especially<br />

landing on or taking off from water. Th ere’s


70 years of history in its fabric. Unlike<br />

modern aircraft , the instruments are in<br />

diff erent positions, the fl ight deck isn’t the<br />

most comfortable, and you can smell the oil<br />

and petrol. Th ere’s a giant piston engine<br />

which you need to get a feel for…”<br />

Of course, all that aircraft comes with<br />

sky-high running charges. Warren Wilson<br />

estimates it costs up to £200,000 (€230,000)<br />

a year, depending on the hours fl own. All<br />

that fuel, insurance, maintenance and<br />

hangar space is paid for by displays, fi lm<br />

work, Catalina Society memberships and<br />

monthly contributions of £150 (€175) from<br />

20 shareholders.<br />

So, how easy is it to buy a vintage<br />

aircraft ? Very, according to Neal Perkins, an<br />

American airline pilot and director of the<br />

Tennessee Museum of Aviation. He sells<br />

aircraft for airplanesusa.com. “What do you<br />

want?” he laughs down the phone. “We have<br />

a MiG-21 fi ghter. You can have it for<br />

US$300,000 (€220,000). It’s been well<br />

maintained and is completely airworthy.”<br />

For the price of a small urban apartment,<br />

it seems, you can have your own fi ghter jet.<br />

“Yes. But it would be a good idea to get some<br />

training fi rst,” warns Perkins. Th ere are<br />

other considerations too, like jet fuel. “It’s an<br />

expensive proposition,” he says.<br />

At Raptor Aviation, also based in the<br />

States, pilot Albert Heidinger sells jets,<br />

helicopters and ‘warbirds’, and carries out<br />

“military contract work”. He says sourcing<br />

planes for sale used to be hugely<br />

entertaining. In the 1990s, for example, as<br />

the USSR broke up, aircraft from Eastern<br />

Bloc countries were cheap and easy to fi nd.<br />

A MiG-17 could be picked up for around<br />

US$35,000 (€25,000).<br />

“Aircraft have to be bought from offi cial<br />

sources today,” says Heidinger. “Moving a<br />

jet around the world needs huge amounts of<br />

paperwork. Th ey have to be demilitarised<br />

and special licences are required to allow<br />

them to fl y. No reputable dealer would get<br />

involved in suspicious deals.”<br />

Auctions can also turn up rare gems. In<br />

2009, Bonhams sold a Mk IX Spitfi re for £1.7<br />

million (€2 million) to the adventurer and<br />

entrepreneur Steve Boultbee Brooks, and in<br />

2010, the auctioneers sold a 1917 Seagull<br />

Flying Boat for US$506,000 (€370,000) to an<br />

unnamed Asian collector.<br />

Occasionally, sourcing a rare aircraft is<br />

more of a challenge. “My favourite story is<br />

about a guy called Peter Vacher who found a<br />

Battle of Britain Hawker Hurricane in the<br />

grounds of a college in India,” Ken Ellis, an<br />

editor of UK aviation magazine Flypast,<br />

explains. “A tree was growing through it,<br />

and it took four years of bureaucracy to get<br />

it back to the UK. It’s fl ying again now, but<br />

cost a fortune to restore.”<br />

So who buys their own aircraft ? “My<br />

clients are people who want to play and are<br />

passionate about aviation,” says Heidinger.<br />

“Th ey loved aircraft when they were children<br />

and then when they become lawyers,<br />

dentists, business owners or whatever, they<br />

discover that a plane is within their reach.<br />

Th ey perhaps fl y only 25 to 50 hours every<br />

year, but they treat their purchase with the<br />

same reverence as someone who loves cars<br />

would treat a vintage Ferrari. Th ey probably<br />

wake up on a Sunday and think, ‘What a<br />

great day for a fl y’.”<br />

It’s a feeling Wolter Portier gets regularly.<br />

Th e engineer, who as a boy used to spend<br />

hours watching planes land while his father<br />

worked in the Dutch Airforce, now co-owns<br />

a Piper L4H that was fl own in Italy during<br />

World War II. “It’s now registered in Th e<br />

Netherlands. I rebuilt it and painted it<br />

AEROPLANES UP<br />

Holland Herald 59


AEROPLANES UP<br />

60 Holland Herald<br />

in the colours of the Royal Netherlands<br />

East Indies Army where my grandfather<br />

once served.”<br />

As a certifi ed aircraft technician who has<br />

been involved in aviation engineering for 30<br />

years and now fl ies around the world<br />

servicing passenger planes, Portier carries<br />

out his own maintenance on the Piper giving<br />

it “all the care and attention” it requires to<br />

keep costs aff ordable.<br />

Portier fl ies around 70 hours a year. “We<br />

fl ew down to the South of France from Th e<br />

Netherlands recently, that was a great trip,<br />

stopping off every few hours to refuel and<br />

practise our French.”<br />

Th e engineer is now restoring a second<br />

Piper and hopes to have it in the air in late<br />

<strong>2012</strong>. And that’s the problem with owning<br />

one plane. Soon you get tempted by a second.<br />

Actor John Travolta owns the Boeing 707-<br />

138B that once belonged to Frank Sinatra, as<br />

well as four other jets. He also has his own<br />

mini-airport terminal, complete with 1.4mile<br />

runway and control tower.<br />

Microsoft multi-billionaire Paul Allen<br />

has a museum full of rare Spitfi res,<br />

Messerschmitts and Mustangs. “I was just<br />

fascinated by making models of aircraft as a<br />

boy,” he writes on his website. Now he<br />

restores the real thing.<br />

But what if your budget doesn’t stretch to<br />

an entire aircraft ? Well, you can always call<br />

Hans Wiesman, the man they call the ‘Dakota<br />

Hunter’. Th e Dutchman scours the globe for<br />

old DC-3 Dakotas that he transforms into<br />

unique furniture for his company AvionArt.<br />

Wing tips from the famous World War II<br />

plane that carried paratroopers during the<br />

liberation of Th e Netherlands make<br />

particularly striking £22,000 (€26,000) desks<br />

once they have been brightly polished, while<br />

Lockheed F-104 Starfi ghter ejection seats can<br />

be transformed into unique desk chairs.<br />

“I have been doing this since 1998, but my<br />

love of the Dakota goes back to my childhood<br />

in Borneo, when we used to always know that<br />

a Dakota would connect us, like a lifeline, to<br />

the world outside,” he says. “Since then, I have<br />

been to sites in Alaska and Th ailand, found<br />

abandoned Dakotas in the jungles of<br />

Columbia, used networks of guys in canoes<br />

on the Amazon and tried unsuccessfully to<br />

make deals for Dakotas in Madagascar.”<br />

At the time of this conversation, Wiesman<br />

was preparing for a trip to Zimbabwe. “Th ere<br />

are not many left ,” he says. “And sometimes<br />

when you fi nd them, they are too rotten to be<br />

used, but occasionally you fi nd exactly what<br />

you want. I think it’s extraordinary.”<br />

And it seems he’s not alone. v<br />

Photos: avionart.co<br />

avionart.com, com, dakat dakatohunter.org<br />

akat ak ohun ohunter. ter. ter.org org o


www.Ardennes-Etape.com<br />

Holiday houses <strong>2012</strong>


ADVENTURE UP<br />

62 Holland Herald<br />

Slopes and<br />

dreams<br />

From starting your run by helicopter to après-ski with animals,<br />

Tom Jordan rounds up some of the best hidden (for now) winter<br />

sport resorts around the world<br />

Sochi, Russia<br />

1<br />

Russia, with gloves<br />

Location: Sochi, Russia<br />

The surprise choice to host the<br />

2014 Winter Olympics, due to a<br />

current lack of high-end ski<br />

facilities at the popular Black Sea<br />

summer spot. But three of the new<br />

Olympic resorts are ready to debut<br />

to the skiing public in the 2011-12<br />

season, so now’s the chance to<br />

be among the fi rst to hit these<br />

soon-to-be-famous slopes.<br />

Price: Week’s pass from €50 at<br />

Gazprom Resort<br />

(ENG.RUS-SOCHI.RU/SKI)<br />

Fly to: Moscow<br />

2<br />

Cold Turkey<br />

Location: Uludag, Turkey<br />

One of Asia’s most westerly ski resorts, Uludag is where Istanbulites head<br />

for winter fun. Facilities are average, but, as in nearby Iran and Lebanon,<br />

the mixture of snowy slopes and near-east culture makes for a memorable<br />

experience. The town of Bursa is packed with Ottoman atmosphere.<br />

Price: Day pass from €12, six-day pass from €37 for resort guests<br />

(ULUDAGSKI.COM)<br />

Fly to: Istanbul<br />

Uludag, Turkey


Photo: Mark Lasseter<br />

4 Over the top<br />

Location: Swiss, Italian and<br />

French Alps<br />

For uncharted off-piste action,<br />

Bond-style, leave the Alp’s hordes<br />

far behind and get dropped off by<br />

helicopter in the remote upper<br />

reaches of the range. Swiss Ski Safari<br />

runs fi ve-day ‘three valleys, three<br />

countries’ trips, airlifting participants<br />

to empty slopes in France, Italy and<br />

Switzerland. Just watch out for<br />

marauding evil henchmen.<br />

Price: From €5,000 for a fi ve-day<br />

itinerary (SWISSKISAFARI.COM)<br />

Fly to: Geneva<br />

Spread photo: Getty Images<br />

Mount Hood, USA<br />

6<br />

Show me the monkeys!<br />

Location: Shiga Kogen, Nagano Prefecture, Japan<br />

After a day sampling some of Shiga Kogen’s 84 fi rstclass<br />

runs, learn how to do après-ski from local<br />

experts: Japanese macaque, aka snow monkeys, who<br />

take the chill off as they bathe in nature’s own hot<br />

tubs at Nagano’s Jigokudani Monkey Park. Homosapien<br />

skiers can follow suit (in their own geothermal pools,<br />

of course).<br />

Price: Five-day pass from €196<br />

(SHIGAKOGEN.GR.JP/ENGLISH)<br />

Fly to: Tokyo<br />

Photo: Corbis<br />

Shiga Kogen, Japan<br />

Las Leñas, Argentina<br />

3<br />

ADVENTURE UP<br />

Andes off to a fl ier<br />

Location: Las Leñas, Argentina<br />

When the powder’s long gone in the<br />

northern hemisphere, dedicated<br />

European skiers up poles and fl y south<br />

for another winter. Argentina has some<br />

great Andean resorts, and the well-todo<br />

from Buenos Aires fl ock to Las<br />

Leñas. International visitors are<br />

beginning to be attracted too by the<br />

challenging slopes and breathtaking<br />

South American scenery.<br />

Price: Seven-day pass from €205<br />

(LASLENASSKI.COM)<br />

Fly to: Buenos Aires<br />

5<br />

Rise and Shining<br />

Location: Mount Hood, Oregon, USA<br />

It’s possible to hit the volcanic slopes<br />

of Oregon’s tallest peak year round<br />

thanks to the Palmer Glacier. Summer<br />

attracts crazy boarders keen to try<br />

out new stunts, but it’s not just the<br />

temperatures that provide a shiver;<br />

one of the resorts, Timberline Lodge,<br />

was used as the hotel exterior in<br />

horror fl ick The Shining.<br />

Price: Daily pass from €41<br />

(SKIHOOD.COM)<br />

Fly to: Portland<br />

Holland Herald 63


Photo: courtesy of IFFR<br />

SOLD-OUT SHOWS AT ROTTERDAM’S TOP FILM EVENT<br />

EVENTS<br />

HOLIDAY ON ICE 4-8 January<br />

The skating stars warm up the<br />

wintry month with Tropicana.<br />

IJsselhal, Rieteweg 4, Zwolle;<br />

holidayonice.nl<br />

HEATING UP THE ICE<br />

Photo: courtesy of Holiday on Ice<br />

AHOY CHRISTMAS CIRCUS<br />

Until 5 January<br />

A traditional circus featuring<br />

clowns, acrobats, elephants,<br />

horses and more.<br />

Ahoy, Ahoyweg 10, Rotterdam;<br />

0900 2352469 (NL only);<br />

kerstcircus.nl<br />

PUUR-BARBAARS<br />

6 January-12 March<br />

Specially created to celebrate<br />

the 50th anniversary of the<br />

Internationaal Danstheater,<br />

Pure-Barbaric is an interplay of<br />

short fragments, group pieces,<br />

traditional folk dance and<br />

contemporary choreography.<br />

Various locations in the<br />

Netherlands; intdanstheater.net<br />

SWAN LAKE Until 11 January<br />

The Ballet of the State Opera of<br />

Tatarstan perform Tchaikovsky’s<br />

classic work.<br />

Various locations;<br />

wereldtheater.com (NL only)<br />

WRITERS UNLIMITED<br />

19-22 January<br />

This year’s international<br />

literature festival, which crosses<br />

cultural and geographical<br />

borders, delves into the theme<br />

‘Keep on Dreaming’.<br />

Various locations in The Hague;<br />

+31 70 3650222; writersunlimited.nl<br />

ART & ANTIQUES FAIR<br />

26-29 January<br />

This exclusive annual event –<br />

held within a church in the<br />

17th-century fortress town of<br />

Naarden – celebrates 50 years.<br />

De Grote Kerk, St Annastraat 5,<br />

Naarden; kunstenantiekweekend.nl<br />

(NL only)<br />

EXHIBITIONS<br />

SIR STANLEY SPENCER:<br />

BETWEEN HEAVEN AND EARTH<br />

Until 15 January<br />

A major overview of the work<br />

of the illustrious 20th-century<br />

British artist. Also here is the<br />

exhibition Mummies! The<br />

Unravelled Secret (until 29 Jan).<br />

Kunsthal, Westzeedijk 341<br />

(Museumpark), Rotterdam;<br />

+31 10 4400301; kunsthal.nl<br />

THE BLOEMAERT EFFECT<br />

Until 5 February<br />

An exhibition of work by the<br />

versatile, lesser-known Dutch<br />

master Abraham Bloemaert<br />

(1566-1651), focusing on colour<br />

and composition in the<br />

Golden Age.<br />

Centraal Museum, Nicolaaskerkhof<br />

10, Utrecht; +31 30 2362362;<br />

centraalmuseum.nl<br />

NEW ENERGY IN DESIGN AND<br />

ART Until 26 February<br />

Artists, designers and<br />

progressive thinkers present<br />

their (alternative) ideas on<br />

‘FORAGERS’ BY DUNNE & RABY<br />

Photo: Jason Evans<br />

HOLLAND UPDATE<br />

Film feast<br />

The acclaimed International Film<br />

Festival Rotterdam (IFFR) devotes<br />

itself to independent, innovative and<br />

experimental cinema from around<br />

the world, complemented by art<br />

exhibitions, debates, talkshows,<br />

parties and premieres galore.<br />

Films are screened in their original<br />

language – usually with English<br />

subtitles – at a variety of venues in<br />

the centre of the city.<br />

INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL<br />

ROTTERDAM; 25 January-5 February;<br />

Various locations in Rotterdam;<br />

fi lmfestivalrotterdam.com<br />

sustainable energy<br />

consumption in this exhibition<br />

of weird and wonderful<br />

objects and sculptures.<br />

Boijmans van Beuningen,<br />

Museumpark 18-20, Rotterdam;<br />

+31 10 4419400; boijmans.nl<br />

CELEBRATING IN THE GOLDEN<br />

AGE Until 6 May<br />

Seventeenth-century<br />

paintings on the theme of<br />

partying: from peasant fairs<br />

and carnival to lavish al fresco<br />

parties, processions and civic<br />

guard banquets.<br />

Frans Hals Museum, Groot Heiligland<br />

62, Haarlem; +31 23 5115775;<br />

franshalsmuseum.nl<br />

GIGS<br />

Intergalactic Lovers 20 Jan<br />

Patronaat (Haarlem)<br />

Bonnie ‘Prince’ Billy 23 Jan<br />

Tivoli (Utrecht)<br />

Red Snapper 24 Jan Bird<br />

(Rotterdam)<br />

Red Snapper 26 Jan Patronaat<br />

(Haarlem)<br />

UB40 26 Jan 013 (Tilburg)<br />

UB40 27 Jan Zeelandhallen<br />

(Goes)<br />

UB40 28 Jan Muziekcentrum<br />

(Enschede)<br />

Info and tickets: livenation.nl<br />

Holland Herald 65


Visit De Nederlandse Opera in Amsterdam!<br />

The<br />

nightingale<br />

and other<br />

fables<br />

Igor Stravinsky<br />

12 — 22 Jan <strong>2012</strong><br />

Nikolay Andreyevich Rimsky-Korsakov<br />

8 — 26 Feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

Experience two impressive<br />

operas in January and February in<br />

Amsterdam<br />

International famous Canadian director<br />

Robert Lepage makes his debut at De<br />

Nederlandse Opera with his enchanting<br />

production of The Nightingale and Other<br />

Fables. Following the huge success in<br />

Toronto, Aix-en-Provence and Lyon this<br />

opera will be performed in January at<br />

The Amsterdam Music Theatre.<br />

The Legend of Kitezh is a rarely<br />

performed Russian opera by Rimsky-<br />

Korsakov in Wagnerian style. In February<br />

this rediscovery will be staged by the<br />

distinguished stage director Dmitri<br />

Tcherniakov.<br />

Box Office<br />

T +31 20 625 5455<br />

www.dno.nl


Acrylic on Linen. Photo: Galerie Mark Peet Visser<br />

NOT A PHOTO — WILLEM VAN VELDHUIZEN’S ‘GUGGENHEIM NYC’<br />

EVENTS<br />

WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS<br />

Until 8 January<br />

Some of the world’s best<br />

circus and animal acts perform<br />

at this grand circus theatre.<br />

Carré, Amstel 115-125; 0900 2525255<br />

(NL only); theatercarre.nl (NL only)<br />

EYE MOVES 2-8 January<br />

A special fi lm programme of<br />

some of the most beautiful<br />

fi lms ever shown at the<br />

Vondelpark Pavilion, home to<br />

EYE (Netherlands Film<br />

Institute) since 1972, before<br />

the institute moves to its new<br />

location in Amsterdam-Noord.<br />

Vondelpark 3, +31 20 5891400;<br />

eyefi lm.nl<br />

PARADISO CHOIR DAYS<br />

14, 15 January<br />

Back-to-back ensembles<br />

perform all day in this former<br />

church turned pop venue.<br />

Paradiso, Weteringschans 6-8; +31<br />

20 6264521; paradiso.nl<br />

JUMPING AMSTERDAM<br />

19-22 January<br />

Top riders from around the<br />

world compete in showjumping<br />

and dressage events.<br />

RAI, Europaplein 22; +31 20 5445720;<br />

jumpingamsterdam.nl<br />

AMSTERDAM INTERNATIONAL<br />

FASHION WEEK 25-29 January<br />

Dutch and international fashion<br />

designers strut their stuff on<br />

the catwalk, complemented by<br />

art exhibitions, launches and<br />

parties around town.<br />

Various locations;<br />

amsterdamfashionweek.com<br />

‘HUMANITY AND EMOTIONS’<br />

Design by Lifu Hsiao of Étranger<br />

EXHIBITIONS<br />

RUBENS, VAN DYCK &<br />

JORDAENS Until 16 February<br />

A stunning selection of work by<br />

these three Flemish masters.<br />

Hermitage, Amstel 51; +31 20<br />

5307488; hermitage.nl<br />

JUDAISM: A WORLD OF<br />

STORIES Until 15 April<br />

3,000 years of Jewish culture<br />

depicted in 500 objects,<br />

including a fi rst-century Dead<br />

Sea Scroll, the oldest complete<br />

Torah, a painting by Chagall,<br />

and Grisha Bruskin’s<br />

monumental Alephbet Tapestry.<br />

De Nieuwe Kerk, Dam; +31 20<br />

6386909; nieuwekerk.nl<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

BAR-ITALIA<br />

An Italian espresso bar,<br />

restaurant and cafe (open until<br />

3am; 4am at weekends) share<br />

this enormous space spanning<br />

main thoroughfare Rokin and<br />

‘theatre street’ Nes. At fi rst<br />

glance, it may look like just<br />

another stylish restaurant, but<br />

its big secret is its open<br />

kitchen from which chefs<br />

create the most imaginatively<br />

fl avoured and exquisitely<br />

presented Italian dishes. You<br />

won’t be disappointed as you<br />

slowly work your way through<br />

the antipasti, primi and<br />

GRAND CAFE<br />

Photo: Bar-Italia<br />

AMSTERDAM UPDATE<br />

The real deal<br />

This annual art fair, showcasing works<br />

from 34 galleries and focusing on<br />

contemporary fi gurative and realistic<br />

art, includes both established and<br />

emerging national and international<br />

artists. Location is inside the massive<br />

Passenger Terminal Amsterdam (PTA),<br />

an architectural tour de force on the<br />

waterfront near Central Station.<br />

REALISME 12; 19-22 January; PTA,<br />

Piet Heinkade 27;<br />

realismeamsterdam.com (NL only)<br />

secondi – nor by the dolci.<br />

Round off your meal with a<br />

Sgroppino Classico whisked<br />

fresh at your table.<br />

Nes 96; +31 20 6202442; bar-italia.nl<br />

GIGS<br />

The Computers 13 Jan<br />

Melkweg<br />

Muchachito Bombo Infi erno<br />

13 Jan Paradiso<br />

Amos Lee 16 & 17 Jan Paradiso<br />

Echo and the Bunnymen<br />

21 Jan Paradiso<br />

The Walkabouts 22 Jan<br />

Paradiso<br />

Boyz II Men 25 Jan Paradiso<br />

K’s Choice 28 Jan Melkweg<br />

WEBSITES<br />

dutchnews.nl<br />

Daily Dutch news in English<br />

specialbite.com<br />

Cool restaurant reviews<br />

eat-amsterdam.com<br />

Food news and dining deals<br />

underwateramsterdam.com<br />

An insider’s city guide<br />

iamsterdam.com<br />

Comprehensive city portal<br />

amsterdam.info<br />

lastminuteticketshop.nl<br />

museumtickets.nl<br />

REMEMBER! This copy of Holland<br />

Herald is yours to take off the plane.<br />

Holland Herald 67


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Photo: F Vrouenraths/Alamy/Imageselect<br />

PATIO DINING WITH A VIEW<br />

COLOURFUL PAST, BRIGHT FUTURE<br />

Modern metropolis<br />

Home to cutting-edge architecture and design, Rotterdam is one of<br />

The Netherlands’ most vibrant cities. An abundance of waterfront restaurants and a<br />

lively club scene and event schedule have put it fi rmly on the travel map.<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

Masters of modern<br />

Rotterdam has an abundance<br />

of modern art and architecture.<br />

Start at the Netherlands<br />

Architecture Institute (nai.nl),<br />

the Cube Houses (see Don’t<br />

Miss) and Euromast (euromast.<br />

nl). And then head over to two<br />

of the country’s most<br />

innovative art museums:<br />

Museum Boijmans Van<br />

Beuningen (boijmans.nl) and<br />

the Witte de With (wdw.nl).<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Eating grand<br />

The city’s grand cafes offer hip<br />

but relaxed dining options; try<br />

Cafe-Restaurant Rotterdam<br />

(cruiseterminalrotterdam.nl), in<br />

an old cruise-ship terminal with<br />

fantastic views, or Grand Cafe-<br />

Restaurant Engels (engels.nl),<br />

with its graceful 1950s style near<br />

Central Station. Michelin-starred<br />

dining is on the menu at<br />

Parkheuvel (parkheuvel.nl). Or<br />

enjoy harbour sightseeing while<br />

eating Dutch pancakes onboard<br />

the Pannenkoekenboot<br />

(pannenkoekenboot.nl).<br />

WHERE TO BOOGIE<br />

Dance trance<br />

Rotterdam rocks to techno,<br />

trance and other fancy sounds.<br />

For the trendy and energetic, .<br />

off_corso (off-corso.nl) offers<br />

techno and electro dance in a<br />

converted cinema. Always willing<br />

to experiment, centrally-located<br />

The Thalia (thaliarotterdam.nl) is<br />

aimed at the sophisticated<br />

over-25 set. Bars range from the<br />

traditional Cafe de Oude Sluis<br />

(Havenstraat 7) at Delfshaven to<br />

modern spots along the river.<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

Dutch Railway (NS) and Thalys<br />

operate several direct trains per<br />

hour to Rotterdam Central Station<br />

from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.<br />

For more information, visit ns.nl.<br />

Tourist information<br />

en.rotterdam.info<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide pages<br />

– and book your fl ight – on<br />

klm.com. Content provided by<br />

Frommer’s Unlimited © <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

TOUCHDOWN ROTTERDAM<br />

Photo: Philippe Turpin/Imageselect<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

Tree houses<br />

A city landmark near the Old<br />

Harbour, the tree-inspired<br />

Cube Houses were designed<br />

by Dutch architect Piet Blom in<br />

the early 1970s. Explore shops<br />

in the oddly upturned<br />

neighbourhood or take a tour<br />

through the Show-Cube, one<br />

of the quirky, lopsided abodes.<br />

kijkkubus.nl<br />

DESIGN ON ITS HEAD<br />

Holland Herald 69


7,107 islands of endless possibilities...<br />

adventure nature culture<br />

www.tourism.gov.ph


Photo: Alan Kraft/Shutterstock.com<br />

A WISTFUL AND MUCH-LOVED LITTLE MERMAID<br />

Pleasing all the senses<br />

Stately tree-lined avenues and vast public parks give Denmark’s capital a relaxed<br />

feel. Its long-standing reputation for stylish design now competes with the ‘world’s<br />

best’ chefs and restaurants as #1 reason to visit this charming city.<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

Fairytale city<br />

Take in the city’s slender spires<br />

and gabled houses on a relaxed<br />

canal boat cruise, or visit the<br />

much-loved Little Mermaid<br />

statue, celebrating local boy<br />

Hans Christian Andersen,<br />

perched at the entrance to the<br />

harbour. See the evolution of<br />

sleek Danish design at the<br />

Museum of Art and Design<br />

(designmuseum.dk).<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Top tastes<br />

Traditional favourites range<br />

from herring and smørrebrød<br />

(open sandwiches) to meatballs.<br />

Award-winning restaurants add<br />

fl air to Danish fl avours – try<br />

Noma (noma.dk) on<br />

Strandgade, or head out of the<br />

city for fi ne dining on the coast at<br />

Den Røde Cottage or little sister<br />

Den Gule Cottage (cottagerne.<br />

dk). Locals enjoy Danish food<br />

and design at Restaurant<br />

Jacobsen (restaurantjacobsen.dk)<br />

in Klampenborg.<br />

WHERE TO SHOP<br />

Danes design<br />

Design is the keyword in<br />

Copenhagen. Wander down<br />

Strøget street in central<br />

Copenhagen K district for<br />

sophisticated Scandinavian<br />

fashion, porcelain from Royal<br />

Copenhagen (going strong since<br />

1775), and the geometric simplicity<br />

of contemporary Danish jewellery.<br />

Locals hunt for bargains at fl ea<br />

markets dotted around the city.<br />

STANDING PROUD<br />

TOUCHDOWN COPENHAGEN<br />

For jewellery, furniture or<br />

knitwear by young designers,<br />

visit Designer Zoo<br />

(designerzoo.dk) in Vesterbro in<br />

Copenhagen V district.<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates multiple direct<br />

daily fl ights to Copenhagen<br />

Airport from Amsterdam<br />

Airport Schiphol.<br />

Tourist information<br />

visitcopenhagen.com<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide pages<br />

– and book your fl ight – on<br />

klm.com. Content provided by<br />

Frommer’s Unlimited © <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

Photo: Eric Nathan/Alamy/Imageselect<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

Star attraction<br />

Completed in 1642, the<br />

Rundetaarn (round tower) is<br />

Europe’s oldest functioning<br />

observatory. Scholars<br />

forsook the tower long ago,<br />

but visitors can still gaze at<br />

the cosmos or enjoy views<br />

of the Latin Quarter below.<br />

Halfway up is the Library Hall,<br />

which serves as gallery and<br />

concert venue.<br />

rundetaarn.dk<br />

LOFTY LOOKOUT<br />

Holland Herald 71


READY<br />

STEADY<br />

MEET!<br />

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Photos: Yuri Nikitin, Robert Matton AB (right), Anna Yu (far right)/Alamy/Imageselect<br />

SWEDISH CHARM<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

Gothic grandeur<br />

Majestic Linköping Cathedral<br />

(see Don’t Miss) dominates the<br />

city with its Gothic tower.<br />

Browse through centuries of<br />

art history at the Östergötland<br />

Museum (ostergotlandslans<br />

museum.se) or revisit the past<br />

in pretty Old Linköping. In the<br />

summer, tour the Göta Canal<br />

(gotakanal.se), by bike or by<br />

boat, to marvel at the Swedish<br />

countryside, or visit Ekanas<br />

Castle (ekenasslott.se) to<br />

travel back to 17th-century<br />

Sweden at its grandest.<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

More than meatballs<br />

There are many restaurants in<br />

Linköping’s city centre. The<br />

traditional Swedish<br />

Restaurant Gula Huset<br />

(Klostergatan 19; +46 13 138838)<br />

serves local fi sh and meat<br />

dishes, while Wasabi Sushi bar<br />

(Storgatan 27; +46 13 128388)<br />

specialises in affordable<br />

Japanese cuisine. Top-end<br />

Stangs Magasin<br />

(stangsmagasin.se) satisfi es<br />

refi ned palates and has beautiful<br />

views over the Stångån River.<br />

WHERE TO BOOGIE<br />

For dancing queens<br />

Ågatan street, in Linköping's<br />

centre, is the place to be as night<br />

falls, with its lively clubs and<br />

friendly bars packed with locals.<br />

Partygoers of all ages gather at<br />

Bar & Kok (Ågatan 47; +46 13<br />

100111) nightclub, and house<br />

music lovers opt for trendy Platå<br />

(Platensgatan 4; +46 13 352121).<br />

A CITY OF YOUNG...<br />

Canals, culture and charm<br />

Packed with museums and home to a soaring Gothic cathedral, this delightful city is<br />

one of Sweden’s main university centres. It offers a smorgasbord of art, theatre,<br />

history, concerts, markets and festivals.<br />

Bars and pubs like Storan (Stora<br />

Torget 9; +46 13 103190) are<br />

found around the main square.<br />

For musical events of all kinds,<br />

head to Arenabolaget<br />

(arenabolaget.se), Linköping's<br />

cultural hub.<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates two direct daily<br />

fl ights to Linköping City Airport<br />

from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.<br />

Tourist information<br />

visitlinkoping.se<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide pages<br />

– and book your fl ight – on klm.<br />

com. Content provided by<br />

Frommer’s Unlimited © <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

TOUCHDOWN LINKÖPING<br />

...AND OLD SCHOLARS<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

Winter<br />

wonders<br />

The 107-metre high tower of<br />

Linköping's Cathedral was<br />

once the tallest building in<br />

Sweden. With parts of the<br />

building dating back to the<br />

13th century, its grand<br />

architecture still dominates<br />

the city’s skyline. The gold<br />

ornaments inside are<br />

particularly impressive.<br />

linkopingsdomkyrka.se<br />

TOWERING OVER THE CITY<br />

Holland Herald 73


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CRUISING THROUGH MANCHESTER'S CANALS<br />

Highlight of the north<br />

A vibrant city in northern England, as famous for its ‘Red Devils’ football team as its<br />

homegrown musical talent. It is little wonder that the ‘capital of the north’ is also<br />

called the ‘rock ‘n’ goal capital of the world’.<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

A city united<br />

The city centre is dotted with<br />

attractions such as the Wheel<br />

of Manchester (Exchange<br />

Square), which offers city views<br />

from 60 metres up, and the<br />

Manchester Art Gallery<br />

(manchestergalleries.org). To<br />

the south is The Manchester<br />

Museum (museum.manchester.<br />

ac.uk). Relive football history<br />

with the Manchester United<br />

Museum and Stadium Tour<br />

(manutd.com) at the Old<br />

Trafford stadium.<br />

WHERE TO SHOP<br />

Vinyl sighting<br />

Upcoming designers show<br />

their stuff at Manchester<br />

Fashion Market (Tib Street),<br />

while Deansgate, King Street<br />

and St Ann’s Square offer more<br />

mainstream retailers. Highstreet<br />

favourites line Market<br />

Street. Head to the Northern<br />

Quarter for unique fashion,<br />

trendy accessories and eclectic<br />

music shops such as Vinyl<br />

Exchange (vinylexchange.co.<br />

uk), or to New Cathedral Street<br />

and Exchange Square for highend<br />

shopping.<br />

WHERE TO BOOGIE<br />

Mad for music<br />

Music is Manchester’s fi rst love.<br />

The city boasts everything from<br />

indie bars and disco nights to<br />

jazz joints and world-class<br />

concerts. Hear original bands in<br />

Night & Day Cafe (nightnday.<br />

org) in the Northern Quarter.<br />

THE UNITED TRINITY<br />

TOUCHDOWN MANCHESTER<br />

City centre haunts include<br />

Knott Bar (374 Deansgate; +44<br />

161 8399229) under the railway<br />

arches, while the MEN Arena<br />

(men-arena.com) hosts bigname<br />

concerts and comedy.<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates fi ve direct daily<br />

fl ights to Manchester Airport<br />

from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.<br />

Tourist information<br />

visitmanchester.com<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide pages<br />

– and book your fl ight – on<br />

klm.com. Content provided by<br />

Frommer’s Unlimited © <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

Photo: Steve Vidler/Imageselect<br />

STATELY MANCHESTER HALL<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

For what<br />

ales you<br />

Suffering from the January<br />

blues? The National Winter<br />

Ales Festival offers respite<br />

and typically northern<br />

refreshment. Dedicated to<br />

promoting real ales and<br />

indigenous beers, the<br />

festival features a surprising<br />

variety of British brews, as<br />

well a fancy-dress party and<br />

live entertainment.<br />

nwaf.org.uk<br />

LOCAL BREWS FOR THE TASTING<br />

Holland Herald 75


Photo: Jerry Sharp/Shutterstock.com<br />

COLONIAL COLOURS IN WILLEMSTAD TROPICAL BEAUTIES<br />

Taking it easy<br />

Colonial charm meets chilled-out Caribbean cool in Curaçao. Enjoy the island’s easy-<br />

going ambiance while taking in fascinating historical monuments, colourful diving and<br />

spicy Creole cooking.<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

Sea history<br />

Dive into Curaçao’s seafaring<br />

history at the Curaçao<br />

Maritime Museum<br />

(curacaomaritime.com) or The<br />

Curaçao Museum (Van<br />

Leeuwenhoekstraat, Willemstad;<br />

+599 9 4623873) in a handsome,<br />

19th-century mansion. Wild and<br />

beautiful Christoffel National<br />

Park (christoffelpark.org) offers<br />

hiking in a landscape of cacti<br />

and orchids, or swimming and<br />

diving in the clear blue sea.<br />

WHERE TO SHOP<br />

Breadwinner<br />

Housed in a distinctive building<br />

near the Queen Wilhelmina<br />

footbridge, stallholders at the<br />

New Market (Punda, Willemstad)<br />

sell woven baskets and palm-fi bre<br />

bags, as well as an array of spices,<br />

fruit and freshly baked bread. Pick<br />

up Curaçao’s signature ceramic<br />

miniature kunuku houses at<br />

specialist potter Keramos (Kaya<br />

Col, Kay Winkel 2, Willemstad;<br />

+599 9 7374676).<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Fusion at its best<br />

On an island where local cuisine<br />

draws on infl uences from over<br />

50 cultures, exploring the local<br />

cuisine is a holiday highlight.<br />

Thursday night is lobster night<br />

at seafood eatery Brakkeput<br />

Mei Mei (brakkeputmeimei.com),<br />

while menus at upmarket Bistro<br />

Le Clochard (bistroleclochard.<br />

com) and Belle Terrace<br />

(avilahotel.com) provide the<br />

perfect excuse for a<br />

gastronomic splurge.<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates several direct<br />

weekly fl ights to Curaçao<br />

International Airport from<br />

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.<br />

Tourist information<br />

curacao.com<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide pages<br />

– and book your fl ight – on<br />

klm.com. Content provided by<br />

Frommer’s Unlimited © <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

TOUCHDOWN CURAÇAO<br />

Photo: Picture Contact/Alamy/Imageselect<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

Hello submarine<br />

KLM is giving away a fantastic<br />

trip to Curaçao. The prize<br />

package includes two roundtrip<br />

tickets, a stay at the<br />

Dolphin Suites Hotel, a swim<br />

with dolphins, a 150m-deep<br />

underwater tour in a minisubmarine<br />

from Substation<br />

Curaçao, and more. The<br />

contest is open until<br />

31 January. Scan the code or<br />

go to the link below for full<br />

details or to enter.<br />

bit.ly/HH_Substation<br />

SCAN FOR A CHANCE TO WIN<br />

Holland Herald 77


PALACE PAGODA CELEBRATING A NEW YEAR<br />

Tradition and high-tech<br />

A dynamic metropolis that never sleeps, Seoul is a city of contrasts, where centuries<br />

of Korean tradition and cutting-edge technology seamlessly merge, and ancient<br />

palaces stand in the shadow of modern high-rise buildings.<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

Centuries of style<br />

North of the Han River, the<br />

Jung-gu and Jongno districts<br />

are the main sightseeing areas.<br />

Gyeongbokgung Palace<br />

(royalpalace.go.kr) and<br />

Changdeokgung Palace (see<br />

Don't Miss) are two of the most<br />

impressive sights. Insadong and<br />

Samcheong-dong are the<br />

present-day cultural centres, with<br />

street vendors and high-end<br />

galleries selling traditional<br />

ceramics and contemporary art.<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Hot and hearty<br />

For relaxed dining, the leafy<br />

streets in Samcheong-dong are<br />

crammed with inviting cafes and<br />

restaurants. In Jung-gu, try<br />

steaming noodles at<br />

Myeongdong Gyoja (24,<br />

Myeong-dong 2-ga; +82 2<br />

7765348) or smokey Korean<br />

barbecue at Chamsutgol (19,<br />

Mugyo-dong; + 82 2 7742100).<br />

WHERE TO SHOP<br />

Around the clock<br />

Insomniacs and bargain hunters<br />

alike can shop 24/7 in the<br />

sprawling Dongdaemun Market<br />

(dongdaemun.com). The bustling<br />

Namdaemun Market (49,<br />

Namchang-dong) keeps more<br />

civilised hours. Fashion lovers<br />

have plenty of opportunities in<br />

Myeong-dong, Idea-ap and<br />

Sinchon (the university district),<br />

Apgujeong's Rodeo Street,<br />

and Gangnam.<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates six direct weekly<br />

fl ights to Seoul Incheon<br />

International Airport from<br />

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.<br />

Tourist information<br />

visitseoul.net<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide pages<br />

— and book your fl ight — on<br />

klm.com. Content provided by<br />

Frommer’s Unlimited © <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

TOUCHDOWN SEOUL<br />

Photo: Gina Smith/Shutterstock.com<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

Peace in the<br />

palace<br />

One of Seoul's most beautiful<br />

royal homes, Changdeokgung<br />

Palace served as the main<br />

seat of power for kings of the<br />

Joseon Dynasty for over 300<br />

years. The peaceful 'Secret<br />

Garden' (Biwon) behind the<br />

main palace building includes<br />

a lake, pavilion and 300-yearold<br />

trees.<br />

english.cha.go.kr<br />

SERENE SURROUNDINGS<br />

Holland Herald 79


STRATTON STREET, LONDON, W1J 8LT<br />

+44 (0)20 7769 4041 THEMAYFAIRHOTEL.CO.UK


CLOSE-UP OF A FROG SLEEPING IN A BANANA LEAF, ON A BEACH IN COSTA RICA. PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN BRAVENBOER.<br />

Inspire us with<br />

your world<br />

Travelling is a great source of inspiration,<br />

and photography is a great way of<br />

capturing those special moments.<br />

Whether it’s landscapes, architecture,<br />

portraits or close-ups, creativity can be<br />

drawn from many sources.<br />

Show us your ‘Journeys of Inspiration’<br />

photos, and you could win two<br />

return tickets to a KLM destination of<br />

your choice!<br />

A goody bag every<br />

three months!<br />

Exact goody bag may differ from those shown<br />

How does it work?<br />

Every three months, there’s a new<br />

theme. At the end of each quarter, we’ll<br />

give away a KLM ‘goody bag’ to three<br />

photographers who, in our opinion, have<br />

sent in the most inspiring photographs<br />

within the theme.<br />

At the end of the year, we’ll choose an<br />

overall winner and two runners-up (see<br />

‘What you can win’ for details) from the<br />

quarterly winners.<br />

The theme<br />

For January, February and March <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

the theme is Close-ups.<br />

Don’t be late…<br />

Entries for Close-ups this quarter must<br />

be received by 1 April <strong>2012</strong>. See our<br />

website holland-herald.com for details.<br />

Get inspired<br />

Visit holland-herald.com for a selection<br />

of beautiful entries from previous years.<br />

PHOTO CONTEST<br />

What you can win<br />

THE GRAND PRIZE<br />

Two intercontinental Economy<br />

Class return tickets on KLM flights.<br />

FIRST RUNNER-UP<br />

A KLM voucher*, value €500, to<br />

be used towards the purchase of<br />

a KLM ticket.<br />

SECOND RUNNER-UP<br />

A KLM voucher*, value €250, to<br />

be used towards the purchase of<br />

a KLM ticket.<br />

*Vouchers can be redeemed at most IATA-accredited travel<br />

agents worldwide. Tickets issued in exchange for vouchers<br />

must bear the same name as that on the voucher.<br />

CONTEST RULES • Photographs can be submitted digitally<br />

(high-res is recommended) or printed (up to 10x15cm) • Photos will<br />

not be returned • Holland Herald, KLM, MediaPartners Group and<br />

the publishers, Ink Publishing, accept no responsibility for lost<br />

material • Copyright clearance and permission of subjects are the<br />

responsibility of the photographers. KLM and Ink Publishing<br />

acquire the rights for future use of the images • The competition is<br />

open to readers of Holland Herald who are 18 years of age or older<br />

on the date of entry and who have flown with KLM during the<br />

entry period • Entrants for the Grand Prize will be notified as soon<br />

as possible after the relevant quarter • Employees of KLM, Ink<br />

Publishing and MediaPartners Group, participating promotional<br />

agencies, contributors to Holland Herald, and the families of any<br />

of the above are not eligible to enter this competition • The<br />

judges’ decisions are final • No prizes can be exchanged for cash.<br />

Holland Herald 81


WWW.KLM.COM<br />

Turn your journeys<br />

into inspiring movies<br />

DOWNLOAD THE FREE KLM<br />

PASSPORT APP FOR IPHONE


Check<br />

NEWS AND INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS<br />

Travellers NEWS AND INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS<br />

Photo: KLM/MAI KLM/MAI<br />

1934<br />

Hoisted by a floating<br />

crane, Douglas DC-2 'Uiver'<br />

is is delivered to Waalhaven<br />

airport airport for final assembly<br />

before its first flight.<br />

contents<br />

KLM news 85<br />

Flying Blue news 87<br />

Jac Goderie column 87<br />

KLM entertainment 89<br />

KLM online 91<br />

People and planet 93<br />

Behind the scenes 95<br />

KLM partners 97<br />

The fleet 98<br />

KLM route maps maps 101<br />

Schiphol, hub gates 108<br />

Amsterdam map 109<br />

Fit Fit for flying 110


WWW.KLM.COM<br />

New.<br />

A la carte<br />

meals<br />

Greater variety in<br />

culinary dishes<br />

Tastes diff er. That’s why<br />

KLM introduces A la carte,<br />

a variety of delightful meals in<br />

Economy Class. For only 12 to<br />

15 euros extra you can enjoy<br />

the meal of your choice on<br />

most intercontinental fl ights<br />

departing from Amsterdam.<br />

Delicious dishes from diff erent<br />

cuisines. Check out our menu<br />

and book your favourite meal<br />

at klm.com


KLM NEWS<br />

“New partners and new ways of enjoying the KLM experience”<br />

Twice as collectible<br />

Photo: Johan Blommaert<br />

The Dutch postal company PostNL<br />

have introduced two new stamps –<br />

one for posting to Europe and another for<br />

posting worldwide – featuring miniature<br />

KLM Delft Blue houses. The Europe stamp<br />

features KLM’s latest miniature house,<br />

#92 which was introduced in October –<br />

the Drie Haringenhuis in Deventer. The<br />

World stamp depicts house #48, the<br />

Rembrandthuis in Amsterdam.<br />

A chameleon logo on the sheet<br />

hints at the fact that the image on<br />

each stamp contains an invisible<br />

code. Scanning the image with the<br />

Chameleon eXplorer app (for iPhone<br />

and Android) reveals an internet<br />

link where one can fi nd background<br />

information on the houses. The stamps<br />

will be available for a limited time at most st<br />

post offi ces in The Netherlands.<br />

Menus from world-class chefs in WBC<br />

CHEF PETER GOOSSENS<br />

À la carte menus<br />

In addition to standard in-fl ight<br />

meals, KLM Economy Class passengers<br />

can choose from fi ve à la carte menus –<br />

Bella Italia, Japanese Delight, Vegetarian<br />

Favourite, Indonesian Rice Dish and an<br />

For the next nine months, passengers<br />

In World Business Class (WBC) can enjoy<br />

menus by chef Peter Goossens. His<br />

culinary achievements at the Hof Van<br />

Cleve restaurant in Belgium have earned<br />

him three Michelin stars and a number 15<br />

ranking among the world’s top 50 chefs.<br />

As part of a new pilot programme, WBC<br />

passengers fl ying from Amsterdam to Cape<br />

Town and Singapore can also choose from<br />

a selection of à la carte menus prepared<br />

by other top chefs.<br />

alternating theme-based meal. The fi fth<br />

option is currently a hearty menu of<br />

wintry Dutch favourites, including two<br />

varieties of stamppot (mashed potatoes<br />

with vegetables) and rookworst (smoked<br />

sausage). The menus are available on<br />

most intercontinental fl ights departing<br />

from Amsterdam and cost between €12 and<br />

€15. They can be ordered a minimum of<br />

48 hours and a maximum of 90 days prior<br />

to departure on klm.com when booking<br />

online or after making a reservation via<br />

‘Manage my Booking’.<br />

Impress and inspire<br />

Share your favourite vacation photos<br />

with friends and family in just minutes,<br />

with the new Passport app from KLM.<br />

Upload your pictures and create fi lms<br />

using the built-in templates. Then share<br />

your inspiring travel stories via e-mail<br />

or Facebook. Get a stamp in your digital<br />

passport for every travelogue you make<br />

in the app. Then, when you want to relive<br />

the fun of the trip, just click on the stamp.<br />

To download the iPhone app, visit the<br />

iTunes app store.<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 85


Yet another reason to join Flying Blue!<br />

ECO-TRAIL PARIS ILE-DE-FRANCE ® ,<br />

a unique cross-country race in urban surroundings<br />

MARSEILLE MARATHON,<br />

through a cosmopolitan city<br />

MILAN MARATHON,<br />

inside the fashion capital<br />

The world is<br />

your playground<br />

If you love running, Flying Blue membership lets you join the Flying Blue Running Club for free,<br />

and take advantage of exceptional benefi ts. Take part in the greatest marathons worldwide,<br />

receive advice from a dedicated coach and access the VIP lounges…<br />

You will also benefi t from preferential fares on all fl ights taking you to your next marathons.<br />

Join Flying Blue at www.klm.com or www.airfrance.com<br />

Discover our club at www.fl yingbluerunning.com


KLM FLYING BLUE NEWS<br />

Awards for any situation<br />

With the introduction of Europe<br />

Classic Awards, KLM and AIR FRANCE<br />

now provide more ways to travel using<br />

Award Miles. Europe Classic Awards are<br />

available on KLM and AIR FRANCE fl ights<br />

within Europe, and are offered at 125% of<br />

the Award Miles usually required for a<br />

classic award ticket. This option is a great<br />

alternative when normal award tickets are<br />

not available, for example when booking<br />

at the last minute or travelling during a<br />

peak season.<br />

AWARDS FOR A EUROPEAN GET-AWAY<br />

The chic way to<br />

earn as you shop<br />

With nine luxury outlet villages in<br />

Europe, Chic Outlet Shopping® offers<br />

shoppers previous season collections<br />

from the world’s leading fashion and<br />

lifestyle brands at greatly discounted prices.<br />

And Flying Blue members can now earn<br />

Award Miles at hundreds of stores in the<br />

nine European villages.<br />

For more information on Chic Outlet<br />

Shopping® and its nine European villages,<br />

visit ChicOutletShopping.com.<br />

Available exclusively online, Promo<br />

Awards@ save you 50% on the Flying Blue<br />

Award Miles usually required for award<br />

tickets with AIR FRANCE KLM. Promo<br />

Awards@ are frequently updated and are<br />

subject to availability. Classic Awards and<br />

Flex Awards offer even more ways of<br />

booking award tickets on KLM and<br />

Flying Blue partner airlines.<br />

For additional information on the full<br />

range of awards available, visit the Flying<br />

Blue page on klm.com or airfrance.com.<br />

How to join Flying Blue<br />

Earn both Level and Award Miles<br />

with Flying Blue, AIR FRANCE KLM’s<br />

loyalty program. Award Miles can<br />

be redeemed for fl ights, products and<br />

services from over 100 partners<br />

worldwide. Level Miles count towards<br />

advancing to a higher membership<br />

level, which provides benefi ts such as<br />

access to airport lounges and extra<br />

baggage allowance. For further details<br />

or to enrol, visit klm.com.<br />

KLM ENTERTAINMENT<br />

The race for<br />

statues is on<br />

It’s that time of the year again. The<br />

deliberations (and betting) have begun:<br />

Who are going to win awards this year?<br />

I can safely say that the actors in a<br />

couple of the movies on board this<br />

month have a very good chance of<br />

walking away with statues in the<br />

upcoming awards season. Ryan Gosling<br />

will certainly be nominated for his quiet,<br />

brooding work in Drive, as will Tilda<br />

Swinton for her role in We Need To Talk<br />

About Kevin. Swinton already has an<br />

Oscar, though, and the ways of the<br />

Academy are inscrutable. But if you’ve<br />

seen the fi lm, you’ll agree. Or will Brad Pitt<br />

fi nally have luck on his side? You should<br />

see Moneyball in any case. Pitt<br />

announced that he’ll stop acting at 50,<br />

and he’s already 48!<br />

I Don’t Know How She Does It<br />

probably won’t be nominated for any<br />

awards, but as a light-hearted comedy, it<br />

works. If a woman wants to have a<br />

brilliant career and still be the perfect<br />

mother and an amazing wife… it really is<br />

possible… well, in this movie at least.<br />

JAC GODERIE<br />

Renowned Dutch movie reviewer and<br />

programmer of KLM Infl ight Entertainment.<br />

RYAN GOSLING IN ‘DRIVE’<br />

For more information on KLM entertainment,<br />

see page 89.<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 87


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The headphones that pioneered<br />

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Since inventing noise cancelling<br />

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has followed a programme of continuous<br />

research. QuietComfort ®<br />

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Flying Blue members can earn Miles<br />

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15<br />

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15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling ®<br />

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reduce more of the unwanted sounds around you. New materials in our<br />

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you’re used to BOSE ®<br />

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For further information visit<br />

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Dutch customers can call 0800 267 34 44<br />

©2010 Bose Corporation. Patent rights issued and/or pending. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Risk free refers to 30-day trial only and does not<br />

include return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. The following countries are participating in the Bose Flying Blue Earning Miles promotion: The Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, Italy,<br />

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MOVIE & TV HIGHLIGHTS MUSIC<br />

BRAD PITT IN ‘MONEYBALL’<br />

LATEST MOVIES<br />

The Debt (Drama, Thriller)<br />

Dolphin Tale (Family Drama)<br />

Drive (Crime, Thriller)<br />

Footloose (Comedy, Drama)<br />

I Don’t Know How She Does It (Comedy)<br />

TELEVISION<br />

People & Planet – GET IT DONE<br />

KLM’s charitable AirCares programme adopts<br />

a new project every three months. From<br />

January through March, GET IT DONE is the<br />

project AirCares is supporting. The movie<br />

Get It Done with KLM tells about the<br />

inspiring work this organisation is getting<br />

done around the world.<br />

See page 95 for more information on<br />

GET IT DONE, AirCares and other KLM<br />

initiatives. The fi lm can be found in the<br />

People & Planet TV category.<br />

HEADED TO SCHOOL WITH GET IT DONE<br />

Moneyball (Drama, Sport)<br />

Real Steel (Action, Sci-fi )<br />

Todo lo que tú quieras (Drama)<br />

Warrior (Action, Drama)<br />

We Need to Talk About Kevin (Drama, Thriller)<br />

JOSH AND SKYE IN A STRANGE NEW WORLD<br />

Drama – Terra Nova<br />

Genesis: parts 1 & 2.<br />

In 2149, the Shannon family joins the Tenth<br />

Pilgrimage of settlers to Terra Nova, the fi rst<br />

colony established on the other side of a<br />

temporal doorway – on Earth 85 million<br />

years in the past. Jim Shannon, a devoted<br />

father with a chequered past, looks after<br />

his family in a world of limitless beauty,<br />

mystery and terror. But before they even<br />

get there, they have a jailbreak to organise.<br />

*All content is offered on wide-body aircraft fl ying intercontinental routes and is updated<br />

around the fi rst of each month.<br />

KLM ENTERTAINMENT*<br />

KLM FM – Showcase<br />

The Grunge Years<br />

Twenty years after the release of<br />

Nirvana’s chartbusting Nevermind album,<br />

Gideon Coe puts on his plaid shirt to<br />

take us on a trip down memory lane. ‘The<br />

Grunge Years’ features music from<br />

Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Soundgarden and<br />

Alice in Chains, as well as bands that<br />

infl uenced and were infl uenced by grunge<br />

– or ‘the Seattle Sound’ – that exploded<br />

onto the world stage in the late 1980s<br />

and early 1990s.<br />

NIRVANA<br />

Getting started<br />

For a complete listing of the more<br />

than 1,000 hours of entertainment<br />

available, check your personal<br />

interactive screen. You can also<br />

check listings on klm.com before<br />

your next fl ight.<br />

CHOOSE WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 89


Papagayo Beachclub staat bekend als de hotspot van<br />

het eiland, geliefd vanwege de internationale stijl en<br />

Caribische sfeer. De internationale keuken en het adembenemende<br />

uitzicht van het restaurant zijn een ervaring<br />

op zich.Vanuit de Beachbar kijkt u uit over het strand en<br />

het gigantische zwembad dat zich uitstrekt tot aan de<br />

horizon en verder... Onze beachclub is de uitgelezen plek<br />

om bij te komen, te ontspannen en uzelf te verzadigen<br />

in het eilandleven. Papagayo beach & lounge resort<br />

Curaçao, feel the spirit & enjoy it!<br />

www.papagayo.nl<br />

Enjoy the new<br />

Caribbean lifestyle!


Travelling with<br />

extra bags?<br />

KLM has a simple solution: arrange extra baggage online and<br />

save 20% on the normal charges you would pay at the airport<br />

check-in desk. With just a few clicks, you can reserve and pay<br />

for extra baggage at klm.com when booking a ticket, via<br />

‘Manage my Booking’ if you already have a ticket or while<br />

checking in online. The option is also available via KLM<br />

smartphone apps and on the mobile website.<br />

More choice in Economy<br />

KLM has some great choices to make<br />

your journey in Economy Class even more<br />

comfortable. The Economy Comfort zone,<br />

in the front of the Economy cabin, offers<br />

seats with substantially more legroom<br />

(10cm more, in fact) than standard seats,<br />

and which recline twice as far. Economy<br />

KLM ONLINE<br />

“Online nline 24/7 to help, inform and amuse”<br />

Comfort and other preferred seats can<br />

easily be arranged while booking a<br />

ticket online or via ‘Manage my<br />

Booking’ on klm.com. See KLM News<br />

on page 85 for more information on the<br />

expanded selection of à la carte meals<br />

in Economy Class.<br />

Where in the world?<br />

Whether you are fl ying, meeting<br />

someone at the airport or just think it’s<br />

cool, you can now track fl ights around the<br />

world in real time. With KLM’s new online<br />

fl ight tracking service, you can fi nd<br />

departure, arrival and status information<br />

for fl ights. You can even see where a fl ight<br />

is on a world map and share this with<br />

friends. To start tracking fl ights, simply click<br />

on the ‘Live arrival and departure times’<br />

link at klm.com.<br />

Stay in touch and<br />

up to date<br />

Send us a message on facebook.com/<br />

klm or hyves.net/klm (for Dutch<br />

customers) or tweet us, and we will be<br />

happy to answer your questions and<br />

provide travel-related assistance. From<br />

rebooking a fl ight to arranging excess<br />

baggage, we are available 24/7. We’ll<br />

answer your message within an hour and<br />

get things taken care of within 24 hours.<br />

Or stay up to date with the latest news,<br />

promotions and fl ight information by<br />

following KLM on our social media pages.<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 91


NATIONAAL AUTOMOBIEL MUSEUM<br />

The first automobile in the Louwman Automobile Museum’s<br />

collection was a 1914 Dodge purchased in 1934. Since that<br />

time, it has grown to 250 different automobiles, and they come<br />

from all over the world.<br />

The collection is laid out in a beautiful airy building designed,<br />

in large part, by American architect Michael Graves, which<br />

allows for ample space to show each car in its best light. All of<br />

the cars in the collection are notable for one reason or another:<br />

innovation, design, uniqueness. Visitors will find cars used in<br />

films (James Bond’s Aston Martin DB5) or owned by the famous<br />

(Elvis Presley’s Cadillac Fleetwood and Prince Bernard’s<br />

Ferrari 500 Superfast Speziale). What is believed to be the oldest<br />

automobile in the world is in the collection as well as some<br />

experiments that were never mass-produced.<br />

Of course the museum isn’t just about automobiles. It’s about<br />

culture and how different cultures have influenced the design of<br />

the automobile. It’s about how values and tastes have changed<br />

over time. Each car has a story to tell and these stories have<br />

been brought together into one cohesive narrative to give the<br />

visitor an overview of how the automobile we know today came<br />

about and the many forces and personalities that influenced it.<br />

Included alongside the cars is an impressive collection of<br />

artwork with an automobile theme. The Louwman Museum’s<br />

collection is the largest privately owned collection of automobiles<br />

in the world, and while it is certainly enjoyable for car enthusiasts,<br />

it is also interesting for history buffs and for anyone<br />

who enjoys beautiful things.<br />

LEIDSESTRAATWEG 57 | 2594 BB DEN HAAG | TEL.: + 31 (0)70 - 304 73 73 | WWW.LOUWMANMUSEUM.NL


Networking<br />

for a better world<br />

The potential of social media seems<br />

limitless. People around the world use it<br />

to keep in touch, corporations tap into it<br />

for business, and now, GET IT DONE is<br />

using it to make the world a better place.<br />

GET IT DONE is a global community<br />

that uses social media to create and<br />

Towards more sustainable air travel<br />

On 26 October in the Passenger<br />

Terminal Amsterdam, 150 representatives<br />

from business, the non-profi t sector and<br />

government took part in the KLM<br />

Dialogue Event for sustainable aviation.<br />

When defi ning the next steps to be<br />

taken, KLM values the opinion of its<br />

stakeholders. So the key question of the<br />

day – “What steps should be taken to<br />

make aviation more sustainable?” – was<br />

addressed in an open space dialogue.<br />

Earlier in the day, KLM and World Wide<br />

Fund for Nature the Netherlands (WWF-<br />

NL) renewed their strategic partnership.<br />

“For seven years running, AIR FRANCE<br />

KLM has been the sector leader in the<br />

Dow Jones Sustainability Index,” said<br />

Camiel Eurlings, Managing Director at KLM.<br />

“Despite the unsure economic climate,<br />

KLM continues to invest in making the<br />

support small-scale development projects<br />

around the world. The organisation<br />

provides a link between grass-roots<br />

projects and individuals worldwide –<br />

creating person-to-person connections<br />

between supporters and project owners.<br />

Since no fees are subtracted from the<br />

aviation sector more sustainable. For<br />

years, KLM has been a leader in the<br />

airline industry in reducing CO2 emissions<br />

and stimulating innovation in the area of<br />

biofuels. We are very committed to our<br />

cooperation with WWF-NL in this area.”<br />

JOHAN VAN DE GRONDEN OF WWF-NL AT THE OPEN SPACE DIALOGUE<br />

KLM PEOPLE & PLANET<br />

donations, all the money received goes<br />

directly to the projects.<br />

How does it work?<br />

Local organisations or individuals team up<br />

with members of the online community to<br />

submit a project to the platform – from a<br />

clean drinking water programme to building<br />

a school. Once the project is approved, the<br />

project owners mobilise their online social<br />

networks to promote the project and raise<br />

funds. And then anyone can get involved,<br />

by donating directly or by promoting the<br />

project to others. One of the ways KLM<br />

supports GET IT DONE is by mobilising its<br />

social community in this way.<br />

For more information on GET IT DONE<br />

and the many projects you can support<br />

around the world, visit getitdone.org or<br />

facebook.com/getitdone.org.<br />

During the event, people around the<br />

world followed the discussions and<br />

contributed ideas via Twitter. For more<br />

information or to read some of the<br />

outcomes of the KLM Dialogue Event,<br />

visit sustainablejourney.nl.<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 93


Up, up and<br />

away<br />

For over 90 years, KLM has been a pioneer and<br />

innovator in the aviation industry and now, in<br />

cooperation with Space Expedition Curaçao (SXC),<br />

KLM is looking to the stars.<br />

In 2014, SXC will begin commercial<br />

fl ights into space, and KLM has<br />

announced its partnership in the<br />

project. A new spaceport is also<br />

planned on the island of Curaçao, in<br />

the Caribbean, to accommodate this<br />

unique space fl ight programme.<br />

Incredible fl ying machine<br />

SXC’s space fl ights will be operated<br />

using Lynx suborbital spacecraft made<br />

by X-COR Aerospace. Chosen for its<br />

remarkable specifi cations, the Lynx is<br />

a special bird indeed. Since it can only<br />

carry two people, every ‘passenger’ will<br />

effectively be a co-pilot. With its huge,<br />

fi ve-square-metre canopy, it will provide<br />

exquisite views of the Earth during the<br />

hour-long fl ight.<br />

Simplicity is one of the Lynx’s most<br />

important design features. Not dependent<br />

on disposable carrier rockets or a mother<br />

ship (for piggy-back take-offs), this<br />

mighty little fl yer is self-propelled self-propelled and<br />

takes off and lands on its own steam.<br />

In contrast to other multi-use spacecraft<br />

(including NASA’s Space Shuttle), the Lynx<br />

can even restart and use its engines during<br />

re-entry and landing.<br />

A lot of time and energy have also<br />

gone into designing and building a<br />

spacecraft that is as environmentally<br />

friendly as possible. Light-weight materials<br />

reduce the amount of fuel needed;<br />

biofuels can be used, and the rocket<br />

is fully reusable. In fact, the engine<br />

is designed to be used for at least<br />

5,000 fl ights.<br />

The experience<br />

The SXC experience begins well before<br />

take-off, as astronauts can choose<br />

from a range of training missions before<br />

getting into the cockpit. In addition to<br />

the mandatory Space Academics Course,<br />

a ride in a G-centrifuge is designed<br />

to prepare participants participants for the 4.5G<br />

experienced during re-entry. Or they<br />

can choose for a fl ight in an<br />

L-39 Albatross fi ghter jet,<br />

KLM BEHIND THE SCENES<br />

which simulates the most important<br />

phases of the space fl ight. And for a<br />

complete training programme, there<br />

are also Altitude Chamber and Zero-G<br />

trainings available.<br />

The fl ight itself will certainly be a oncein-a-lifetime<br />

experience. The powerful<br />

thrust at take-off propels the spacecraft<br />

through the sound barrier within 60<br />

seconds and to Mach 3 (three times the<br />

speed of sound) within three minutes. At<br />

60km up, the pilot switches off the engine,<br />

and the Lynx glides silently to its maximum<br />

altitude of 100km – the frontier of space.<br />

The spaceship returns to earth as a glider,<br />

but at 10km a pull-out manoeuvre to lose<br />

speed means those in the capsule will<br />

experience 4.5Gs for a few seconds.<br />

The fl ight will have lasted almost an<br />

hour, but the memories will last a lifetime.<br />

Why space fl ight?<br />

KLM is dedicated to promoting new<br />

technologies and fi nding ways to make<br />

space accessible in a responsible and<br />

sustainable way. The SXC project fi ts<br />

perfectly into KLM’s tradition of being a<br />

pioneer in the aviation industry.<br />

For more information on<br />

Space Experience Curaçao,<br />

visit spacexc.com.<br />

“The fl ight will last<br />

almost an hour, but the<br />

memories will last a lifetime”<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 95


People from Amsterdam already<br />

know this. If you really want<br />

good food, you may have to<br />

look a bit further for that hidden<br />

treasure. Just like in New York,<br />

London and Paris the connois-<br />

<br />

A place with Michelin stars can<br />

be easily found, but it may be<br />

considered a form of art to enjoy<br />

good food for a good price.<br />

Is there a place where love for<br />

food is obvious?<br />

A real hidden treasure in Looks,<br />

hidden in the old part of Amsterdam.<br />

A lot of famous food<br />

critics already found there way.<br />

They are unanimous. Looks is<br />

delicious!<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Flown in daily from the coast<br />

of Nova Scotia Canada.<br />

Boiled in vegetable broth<br />

with a julienne of fennel,<br />

leek and carrot. Served with<br />

Basmati rice and a white<br />

wine nage.<br />

Reservations<br />

Centre of Amsterdam<br />

<br />

Open Mo through Sat<br />

<br />

info@restaurantlooks.nl<br />

www.restaurantlooks.nl<br />

A new menu every two<br />

weeks.<br />

Starters € 9,50<br />

Mains € 19,50<br />

Desserts € 9,50<br />

How do you make cooking great<br />

and affordable?<br />

Restaurant Manager Hans:<br />

We have chosen to carry a very<br />

sa en sh eat an<br />

veetaran sh hs s hat<br />

e ocs on an e chane ths<br />

en every to ees We coo<br />

th seasona rocts the hoe<br />

year throh r aos entrecote<br />

s the ony thn e aays<br />

serve.<br />

What is your specialty?<br />

Restaurant Manager Hans: Lobster<br />

season s n sn. hey<br />

taste so oo e have the on<br />

the en nt the th o ebrary<br />

. We have the on n ay<br />

ADVERTORIAL<br />

Restaurant manager: Hans Kreeft<br />

Chef: Dianne Sheppard<br />

Looks Amsterdam<br />

resh ro the coast o ova cota<br />

anaa. hat s soethn<br />

How’s the lobster prepared?<br />

Chef Dianne: r tchen sta<br />

ors reay har. t taes a ot<br />

o te to cean the obsters. We<br />

ae sre the obster s eat reay<br />

on yor ate. o no n the<br />

tas or crshn th orce. he<br />

best art s n the cas the<br />

tastesecos the tate<br />

ecacy. Normally prices vary<br />

<br />

<br />

for money.<br />

City Centre Amsterdam<br />

<br />

-Telegraaf:<br />

because they really love food.<br />

Dining there is an experience.<br />

-Parool: (Johannes van Dam)<br />

entrecote<br />

in history, at least my history<br />

-NRC:<br />

too cheap to taste this good!<br />

-Specialbite: Great restaurant<br />

with an equally great<br />

atmosphere!


Our partners, your benefi ts<br />

AIR FRANCE KLM, Europe’s largest airline group, is a<br />

member of SkyTeam, an alliance of 15 airlines.<br />

This offers you a variety of benefi ts such as: 926 global<br />

destinations, access to 490 lounges worldwide, a coordinated<br />

timetable for improved connections, and more opportunities to<br />

earn Flying Blue Level and Award Miles. Award Miles can be<br />

Code-share partners<br />

KLM and its main partners<br />

Other KLM partners<br />

Combined code-share and<br />

Flying Blue partners<br />

KLM PARTNERS<br />

spent on fl ights, or with over 100 non-airline partners, such as<br />

Marriott and Hertz. Level Miles count towards a higher membership<br />

tier, each offering different benefi ts such as access to airport<br />

lounges and extra baggage allowance. Together with our US joint<br />

venture partner, Delta Air Lines, we guarantee you a perfectly<br />

integrated network and superior customer service.<br />

Founded: 1919 / Home base: Amsterdam<br />

Fleet size: 200* / Passengers: 22 million<br />

klm.com<br />

* including KLM Cityhopper, Martinair and transavia.com<br />

Founded: 1933 / Home base: Paris<br />

Fleet size: 380** / Passengers: 52 million<br />

airfrance.com<br />

** including subsidiaries<br />

Founded: 1928 / Home base: Atlanta<br />

Fleet size: 815 / Passengers: 170 million<br />

delta.com<br />

Flying Blue partners<br />

You can earn and/or spend Miles with all SkyTeam alliance members and KLM’s Flying Blue partners; Flying Blue is AIR FRANCE KLM’s loyalty program. For detailed information, visit klm.com or<br />

airfrance.com. A code-share partner means that even though you have booked a KLM fl ight number, you may fi nd yourself travelling on a service operated by that partner.<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 97


Artwork KLM fl eet: Hans Murris, KLM Engineering & Maintenance, SPL/WM<br />

KLM PLANE FACTS HOW BIG, HOW SMALL, HOW FAR…?<br />

1920 17 May: the fi rst KLM fl ight<br />

from London to Amsterdam.<br />

1933 The Fokker F-XVIII Pelican<br />

sets a new record for the fl ight<br />

Amsterdam-Jakarta of four days, four<br />

hours and 35 minutes.<br />

1934 October: the McDonnell<br />

Douglas DC-2 Uiver wins fi rst prize<br />

in the handicap section, and<br />

second prize overall in the<br />

London-Melbourne Air Race.<br />

1946 KLM launches its<br />

scheduled service between<br />

Amsterdam and New York.<br />

1960<br />

KLM introduces the<br />

McDonnell Douglas DC-8 into its<br />

fl eet, marking the beginning of the<br />

‘jet age’.<br />

1971 KLM’s fi rst Boeing<br />

747B heralds the start of the<br />

‘wide-body’ age.<br />

1989 KLM is the fi rst European<br />

airline to introduce the new<br />

generation 747-400s.<br />

2003 KLM introduces the fi rst of<br />

its Boeing 777-200ER aircraft, followed<br />

in 2008 with the 300ER variant.<br />

2005 KLM starts adding the<br />

fi rst of 12 Airbus A330-200 aircraft to<br />

its fl eet.<br />

2008 KLM begins a gradual<br />

introduction of the EMBRAER 190 to its<br />

Cityhopper fl eet, replacing some of its<br />

Fokker 100 aircraft.<br />

2011 KLM becomes the fi rst<br />

airline in the world to operate<br />

commercial fl ights using biofuel.<br />

KLM’s fuel effi ciency performance is one<br />

of the best in Europe thanks, in part, to<br />

its effi cient network and modern fl eet.<br />

The klm.com/csr website provides<br />

more detailed information on KLM’s<br />

corporate social responsibility and<br />

sustainable air transport activities.<br />

98 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK<br />

Boeing 747-400<br />

22 920 11,500 64.44 35,000<br />

(Combi 16) (Combi)<br />

390,100 415 70.67 yes!<br />

(Combi 396,900) (Combi 275)<br />

Boeing 747-400ER Freighter<br />

4 920 11,500 64.44<br />

412,800 112,000 70.67<br />

Boeing 777 777-300ER 300ER<br />

5 900 12,000 64.80<br />

351,543 425 73.86 yes!<br />

Boeing 777-200ER<br />

15 900 11,800 60.90<br />

297,500 318 63.70 yes!


McDonnell Douglas MD-11<br />

Airbus A330-200<br />

Fleet data information valid at magazine publication date<br />

KLM PLANE FACTS<br />

10 880 11,000 51.96<br />

280,300 285 61.21 yes!<br />

11 880 8,800 60.30<br />

230,000 243 58.37 yes!<br />

Boeing 737-900 Boeing 737-800<br />

5 850 4,300 35.80<br />

76,900 189 42.12<br />

Boeing 737-700<br />

18 850 3,500 35.80<br />

64,000 129 33.62<br />

Fokker 70/100<br />

26 743 2,400 28.08<br />

5 740 2,400 28.08<br />

38,000 80 30.91<br />

44,400 100 35.53<br />

23 850 4,100 35.80<br />

73,700 171 39.47<br />

KEY<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG)<br />

WINGSPAN (M)<br />

EMBRAER 190<br />

17 850 3,300 28.72<br />

45,600 100 36.25<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H)<br />

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS<br />

SCALE: 1CM = APPR. 6.3M<br />

TELEPHONE ON BOARD<br />

RANGE (KM)<br />

TOTAL LENGTH (M)<br />

MAX. FREIGHT (KG)<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 99


Welcome to the Netherlands<br />

Connexxion is the biggest passenger transportation company in Holland with<br />

locations nationwide. We can offer you our transportation services all over the<br />

Netherlands: Airport transportation, taxi and wheelchair adapted transportation,<br />

group transportation and business taxi.<br />

Schiphol Taxi<br />

• Situated immediately outside the<br />

Arrivals hall on the official taxistand.<br />

• All major credit cards accepted.<br />

• The cars are also available<br />

for day or other trips.<br />

Website | www.connexxion.nl<br />

E-mail | schipholtaxi@connexxion.nl<br />

Telephone | +31 (0)88 339 47 66<br />

Schiphol Hotel Shuttle<br />

• Direct connection to 110 hotels in Amsterdam.<br />

• Situated immediately outside the Arrivals hall<br />

at platform A7.<br />

• Tickets are available at platform A7 or at the<br />

Connexxion Desk in Arrivals 4 opposite the<br />

Starbucks. Follow the signing ‘Amsterdam<br />

Shuttle Desk’.<br />

free<br />

Website | www.schipholhotelshuttle.nl<br />

E-mail | ahs@connexxion.nl<br />

onboard<br />

Telephone | +31 (0) 88 339 47 41<br />

Address | Cateringweg 12, 1118 AN Schiphol, Holland


!<br />

!<br />

Tenerife<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Trondheim<br />

!<br />

Oslo<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

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!<br />

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!<br />

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!<br />

! Riga<br />

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!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! !<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Minsk<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Warsaw<br />

Cork !<br />

! !<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Lille !<br />

! Kiev<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Caen<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Paris<br />

!<br />

Brno Zilina !<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Vienna ! !<br />

!<br />

! !<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Zurich<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Iasi<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Bacau !<br />

!<br />

Lyon<br />

!<br />

! !<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Milan<br />

! Zagreb<br />

Sibiu<br />

! ! !<br />

! Brive<br />

! Turin<br />

Anapa<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Genoa<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Nice<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Pisa<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Split<br />

!<br />

Pau<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Calvi<br />

Sofia<br />

! !<br />

! Vigo<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! ! Lleida<br />

Rome<br />

!<br />

! Figari<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Bari<br />

!<br />

Reus<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Ibiza<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! !<br />

Bratislava<br />

Bergen<br />

Helsinki<br />

Tallinn<br />

Goteborg<br />

Dundee<br />

Billund<br />

Vilnius<br />

Moscow<br />

Hamburg<br />

Bremen<br />

Berlin<br />

Hannover<br />

Leipzig<br />

Dresden<br />

Brussels Cologne<br />

Krakow<br />

Prague<br />

Ostrava Lviv<br />

Luxemburg<br />

Stuttgart<br />

Kosice<br />

Munich<br />

Suceava<br />

Basel/Mulhouse<br />

Salzburg<br />

Nantes<br />

Budapest<br />

Oradea<br />

Geneva<br />

Verona<br />

Venice<br />

Trieste<br />

Timisoara<br />

Bordeaux<br />

Belgrade<br />

Bologna<br />

Asturias<br />

Biarritz Toulouse<br />

Bilbao<br />

Ancona<br />

Toulon Bastia<br />

Zaragoza<br />

Ajaccio<br />

Skopje<br />

Tirana<br />

Istanbul<br />

Brindisi<br />

Madrid<br />

Menorca<br />

Albacete<br />

Cagliari<br />

Lisbon<br />

Alicante<br />

Palermo<br />

Murcia<br />

Seville<br />

Catania<br />

Antalya<br />

Malaga<br />

Iraklio<br />

Nuremberg<br />

Stavanger<br />

Sandefjord<br />

Stockholm<br />

Kristiansand<br />

Linköping<br />

Aberdeen<br />

Glasgow<br />

Edinburgh<br />

Newcastle<br />

Durham Tees Valley<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Kaliningrad<br />

Manchester<br />

Humberside<br />

Norwich<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Cardiff<br />

London Dusseldorf<br />

Bristol<br />

Karlovy Vary<br />

Frankfurt<br />

Poprad<br />

Brest<br />

Strasbourg<br />

Satu Mare<br />

Baia Mare<br />

Innsbruck<br />

Cluj-Napoca<br />

Ljubljana<br />

Tirgu Mures<br />

Simferopol<br />

Bucharest Constanta Gelendzhik<br />

Montpellier Marseille<br />

Leon<br />

Dubrovnik<br />

Perpignan<br />

Naples<br />

Thessaloniki<br />

Lamezia-Terme<br />

Pantelleria<br />

Leeds<br />

Oslo<br />

St. Petersburg<br />

Aalborg<br />

Riga<br />

Dublin<br />

Liverpool<br />

Minsk<br />

Birmingham<br />

Warsaw<br />

Cork<br />

Lille<br />

Kiev<br />

Caen<br />

Paris<br />

Brno Zilina<br />

Vienna<br />

Rennes<br />

Zurich<br />

Iasi<br />

Bacau Odessa<br />

Lyon<br />

Clermont-Ferrand<br />

Milan<br />

Zagreb<br />

Sibiu<br />

Brive<br />

Turin<br />

Anapa<br />

Genoa<br />

Avignon Nice Florence<br />

Pisa<br />

Split<br />

Pau<br />

Santiago De Compostela<br />

Pamplona<br />

Tivat<br />

Calvi<br />

Sofia<br />

Podgorica<br />

Vigo<br />

Valladolid<br />

Lleida<br />

Rome<br />

Figari<br />

Foggia<br />

Porto<br />

Salamanca<br />

Barcelona<br />

Bari<br />

Reus<br />

Olbia<br />

Ankara<br />

Valencia Palma De Mallorca<br />

Ibiza<br />

Cordoba<br />

Reggio di Calabria Athens<br />

Granada<br />

Almeria<br />

Malta<br />

Lampedusa<br />

Larnaca<br />

Paphos<br />

Bratislava<br />

Bergen<br />

Helsinki<br />

Tallinn<br />

Goteborg<br />

Dundee<br />

Billund<br />

Vilnius<br />

Moscow<br />

Hamburg<br />

Bremen<br />

Berlin<br />

Hannover<br />

Leipzig<br />

Dresden<br />

Brussels Cologne<br />

Krakow<br />

Prague<br />

Ostrava Lviv<br />

Luxemburg<br />

Stuttgart<br />

Kosice<br />

Munich<br />

Suceava<br />

Basel/Mulhouse<br />

Salzburg<br />

Nantes<br />

Budapest<br />

Oradea<br />

Geneva<br />

Verona<br />

Venice<br />

Trieste<br />

Timisoara<br />

Bordeaux<br />

Belgrade<br />

Bologna<br />

Asturias<br />

Biarritz Toulouse<br />

Bilbao<br />

Ancona<br />

Toulon Bastia<br />

Zaragoza<br />

Ajaccio<br />

Skopje<br />

Tirana<br />

Istanbul<br />

Brindisi<br />

Madrid<br />

Menorca<br />

! Ankara<br />

Albacete<br />

Cagliari<br />

Lisbon<br />

Alicante<br />

Palermo<br />

Murcia<br />

Seville<br />

Catania<br />

Antalya<br />

Malaga<br />

Iraklio<br />

Nuremberg<br />

Stavanger<br />

Sandefjord<br />

Stockholm<br />

Kristiansand<br />

Linköping<br />

Aberdeen<br />

Glasgow<br />

Edinburgh<br />

Newcastle<br />

Durham Tees Valley<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Kaliningrad<br />

Manchester<br />

Humberside<br />

Norwich<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Cardiff<br />

London Dusseldorf<br />

Bristol<br />

Karlovy Vary<br />

Frankfurt<br />

Poprad<br />

Brest<br />

Strasbourg<br />

Satu Mare<br />

Baia Mare<br />

Innsbruck<br />

Cluj-Napoca<br />

Ljubljana<br />

Tirgu Mures<br />

Simferopol<br />

Bucharest Constanta Gelendzhik<br />

Montpellier Marseille<br />

Leon<br />

Dubrovnik<br />

Perpignan<br />

Foggia<br />

!<br />

Naples<br />

Thessaloniki<br />

Lamezia-Terme<br />

Pantelleria<br />

Leeds<br />

St. Petersburg<br />

Aalborg<br />

Dublin<br />

Liverpool<br />

Birmingham<br />

Rennes<br />

Odessa<br />

Clermont-Ferrand<br />

Avignon<br />

Florence<br />

Santiago De Compostela<br />

Pamplona<br />

Tivat<br />

Podgorica<br />

Valladolid<br />

Salamanca<br />

Barcelona<br />

Olbia<br />

Valencia Palma De Mallorca<br />

Cordoba<br />

Reggio di Calabria Athens<br />

Granada<br />

Almeria<br />

Malta<br />

Lampedusa<br />

Larnaca<br />

Paphos<br />

Santa Cruz<br />

De La Palma<br />

EUROPE<br />

Lanzarote<br />

Fuerteventura<br />

Gran Canaria<br />

European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share partners<br />

KLM<br />

Aer Lingus<br />

Aeroflot<br />

Air Baltic<br />

Air Europa<br />

Air France<br />

Alitalia<br />

SkyTeam member<br />

KLM MAPS<br />

Belavia<br />

Georgian Airways<br />

Brit Air<br />

Jat Airways<br />

Bulgaria Air<br />

Regional<br />

CAI First (Alitalia Express)<br />

Rossiya<br />

Czech Airlines<br />

Tarom<br />

Cyprus Airways<br />

Estonian Air<br />

transavia.com<br />

Tbilisi Tbilisi<br />

Comments? E-mail maps@mediapartners.nl / Maps: Uitgeverij 12 Provinciën<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 101


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Madrid<br />

Pisa<br />

Nice<br />

Lyon<br />

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Lima<br />

Leon<br />

Kano<br />

Tunis<br />

Rabat<br />

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Paris<br />

Oujda<br />

Natal<br />

Milan<br />

Miami<br />

Lagos<br />

Dakar<br />

Belem<br />

Aruba<br />

Accra<br />

Abuja<br />

Zurich<br />

Vienna<br />

Venice<br />

Roatan<br />

Recife<br />

Prague<br />

Niamey<br />

Munich<br />

Merida<br />

Campeche<br />

Manaus<br />

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Malabo<br />

Maceio<br />

Macapa<br />

Luanda<br />

London<br />

Ilheus<br />

Havana<br />

Dublin<br />

Douala<br />

Djerba<br />

Denver<br />

Dallas<br />

Cuiaba<br />

Goiania<br />

Cancun<br />

Boston<br />

Bogota<br />

Berlin<br />

Bangu<br />

Bamako<br />

Yaounde<br />

Vitoria<br />

Tripoli<br />

Torreon<br />

Toronto<br />

Tijuana<br />

Shannon<br />

Seattle<br />

Raleigh<br />

Phoenix<br />

Orlando<br />

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Memphis<br />

Managua<br />

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Houston<br />

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Detroit<br />

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Conakry<br />

Chicago<br />

Cayenne<br />

Cartago<br />

Caracas<br />

Calgary<br />

Edmonton<br />

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Atlanta<br />

Algiers<br />

Abidjan<br />

Winnipeg<br />

Saskatoon<br />

Veracruz<br />

Valencia<br />

Zaragoza<br />

Teresina<br />

Tenerife<br />

Santiago<br />

Santiago<br />

San Juan<br />

San Jose<br />

San Jose<br />

Salvador<br />

Aracaju<br />

Portland<br />

New York<br />

Ndjamena<br />

Montreal<br />

Monterey<br />

Monrovia<br />

Medellin<br />

Mazatlan<br />

Londrina<br />

Kinshasa<br />

Kingston<br />

to Honolulu<br />

Hartford<br />

Freetown<br />

Curitiba<br />

Culiacan<br />

Budape<br />

Brussels<br />

Brasilia<br />

Acapulco<br />

Vancouver Stuttgart<br />

Stockh<br />

Sao Paolo<br />

Nashville<br />

Milwaukee<br />

Marseille<br />

Marrakesh<br />

Las Vegas<br />

Kisanga<br />

Guayaquil<br />

Guatemala<br />

Frankfurt<br />

Karlovy Vary<br />

Fortaleza<br />

Sao Luiz<br />

Chihuahua<br />

Cape Town<br />

Bu<br />

Bu<br />

Barcelona<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Santa Cruz<br />

Sacramento<br />

Punta Cana<br />

Pittsburgh<br />

Paramaribo<br />

Nouakchott<br />

Navegantes<br />

Manchester<br />

Libreville<br />

Hermosillo<br />

Georgetown<br />

Dusseldorf<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Cincinnati<br />

Casablanca<br />

Bridgetown<br />

Saint Lucia<br />

Saint Kitts<br />

Tegucigalpa<br />

San Antonio<br />

Saint Croix<br />

Porto Velho<br />

Panama City<br />

Ouagadougou<br />

Montego Bay<br />

Minneapolis<br />

Mexico City<br />

Los Angeles<br />

Kali<br />

Joao Pessoa<br />

Guadalajara<br />

Brazzaville<br />

Saint Thomas<br />

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Pointe-Noire<br />

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Indianapolis<br />

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Buenos Aires<br />

Montevideo<br />

Saint Maarten<br />

Santo Domingo<br />

San Francisco<br />

Iguassu Falls<br />

Florianopolis<br />

Ciudad Juarez<br />

Caxias do Sul<br />

San Pedro Sula<br />

Rio de Janeiro<br />

Port-au-Prince Pointe-a-Pitre<br />

Fort-de-France<br />

Salt Lake City<br />

Providenciales<br />

Belo Horizonte<br />

Aguascalientes<br />

Puerto Vallarta<br />

Washington, D.C.<br />

Antigua Guatemala<br />

Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo<br />

Grand Cayman Island<br />

Santiago de Compostela<br />

Ciudad del Carmen<br />

Oaxaca Huatulco<br />

Reynosa<br />

Monterrey<br />

Mexicali<br />

102 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK<br />

WORLD<br />

See p.104<br />

See p.101


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Surgut<br />

Tyumen<br />

Kazan<br />

Moscow<br />

Samara<br />

Orenburg<br />

ague<br />

Vienna<br />

Harbin<br />

Anapa<br />

Urumqi<br />

Akita<br />

Ashgabat<br />

Niigita Sendai<br />

Cheongju<br />

Tehran<br />

Busan<br />

Nagoya<br />

Hiroshima<br />

Nagasaki<br />

Amman<br />

Oita<br />

Lahore<br />

Cairo<br />

Kuwait<br />

Delhi<br />

Taipei<br />

Dubai<br />

Kunming Guilin<br />

Riyadh Doha<br />

Xiamen<br />

Dhaka<br />

Taichung<br />

Muscat<br />

Jeddah<br />

Kaohsiung<br />

Hanoi<br />

Daman<br />

Luang Prabang<br />

Haikou<br />

Mumbai<br />

Chiang Mai<br />

Sanya<br />

Yangon Vientiane<br />

Da Nang<br />

Manila<br />

Cebu<br />

Phuket<br />

Penang<br />

Kota Kinabalu<br />

Jiamusi<br />

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Irkutsk<br />

Almaty<br />

Tbilisi<br />

Aomori<br />

Ankara<br />

Yerevan<br />

Athens<br />

Beirut<br />

li<br />

Chengdu<br />

Dammam<br />

Karachi<br />

Bangui<br />

Colombo<br />

Wuhan<br />

Shijiazhuang<br />

Jinan<br />

Zhengzhou<br />

Xian<br />

Nanjing<br />

Tunxi<br />

Dalian<br />

Nizhenvartovsk<br />

Stockholm<br />

St. Petersburg<br />

Nizjni Novgorod<br />

Yekaterinburg<br />

hagen<br />

Novosibirsk<br />

Krasnojarsk<br />

Chelyabinsk<br />

Kaliningrad<br />

Kemerovo<br />

See p.106<br />

Barnaul<br />

Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky<br />

Volgograd<br />

Khabarovsk<br />

Ulaanbaatar<br />

Budapest<br />

Yuzhno Sakhalinsk<br />

Krasnodar Astrakhan<br />

Simferopol<br />

Gelendzhik<br />

Mudanjiang<br />

Bishkek<br />

Changchun<br />

Bucharest<br />

Mineralnye Vody<br />

Vladivostok Sapporo<br />

Tashkent Shenyeng Yanji<br />

Hakodate<br />

Istanbul<br />

Khudzhand<br />

Beijing<br />

Dushanbe<br />

Taiyuan<br />

Damascus<br />

Islamabad<br />

Tel Aviv<br />

Shanghai Kagoshima<br />

Hangzhou<br />

Lhasa<br />

Chongging Ningbo<br />

Sharm el Sheikh<br />

Kathmandu<br />

Changsha<br />

Hurghada<br />

Bahrain<br />

Guiyang<br />

Abu Dhabi<br />

Nanning Guangzhou<br />

Hong Kong<br />

Khartoum<br />

Bangkok<br />

Siem Reap<br />

Bangalore<br />

jamena<br />

Djibouti<br />

Phnom Penh<br />

Rach Gia Ho Chi Minh City<br />

Addis Ababa<br />

Can Tho<br />

Kuala Lumpur<br />

Kisangani !<br />

Entebbe !<br />

! Kisumu<br />

! Kigali<br />

! Nairobi<br />

Bujumbura !<br />

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Mombasa<br />

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! Moroni<br />

! Ndola<br />

! Lilongwe<br />

! Dzaoudzi<br />

! Lusaka<br />

! Nampula<br />

! Harare<br />

! Gaborone<br />

! ! Maputo<br />

Johannesburg<br />

! Durban<br />

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Port Elizabeth<br />

! Seychelles<br />

! Antananarivo<br />

! Mauritius<br />

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World routes including SkyTeam and KLM<br />

code-share partners<br />

KLM (from Amsterdam)<br />

COPA Airlines<br />

Aeroflot Czech Airlines<br />

Aeromexico<br />

Delta Air Lines<br />

Air Europa<br />

GulfAir<br />

Air France<br />

Kenya Airways<br />

Alaska Airlines<br />

Korean Air<br />

Alitalia<br />

GOL Airlines<br />

Bangkok Airlines<br />

Malaysia Airlines<br />

China Southern<br />

Tarom<br />

Comair Limited<br />

Vietnam Airlines<br />

SkyTeam member<br />

! Singapore<br />

! Jakarta<br />

! Denpasar<br />

! Perth<br />

! Arrabury<br />

! Adelaide<br />

KLM MAPS<br />

Sydney<br />

!<br />

! Melbourne<br />

! Brisbane<br />

to Nadi<br />

to Anaa<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 103<br />

Auckland<br />

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Seattle<br />

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Santa Rosa<br />

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA<br />

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San Francisco<br />

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! ! ! !<br />

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Eugene<br />

Yakima<br />

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Fresno<br />

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Ontario<br />

Boise<br />

Santa Barbara ! Burbank<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Ontario<br />

Los Angeles !<br />

! Palm Springs<br />

Santa Ana<br />

!<br />

Wenatchee<br />

Redmond<br />

Sacramento<br />

Anchorage<br />

Walla Walla<br />

Fairbanks<br />

! Fairbanks<br />

Spokane<br />

Pullman<br />

Lewiston<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

San Diego<br />

104 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK<br />

!<br />

Kalispell<br />

!<br />

Las Vegas<br />

Missoula<br />

Gustavus<br />

!<br />

!<br />

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!<br />

Sitka<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Helena<br />

Great Falls<br />

!<br />

Bozeman<br />

!<br />

Phoenix<br />

!<br />

Tucson<br />

!<br />

Salt Lake City<br />

!<br />

Jackson<br />

Juneau<br />

Ketchikan<br />

Billings<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Hayden<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Montrose<br />

!<br />

Vail<br />

El Paso<br />

!<br />

Denver<br />

!<br />

Albuquerque<br />

!<br />

!<br />

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Bismarck<br />

Rapid City<br />

Colorado Springs<br />

Kauai<br />

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Minot<br />

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Amarillo<br />

Lubbock<br />

Honolulu<br />

Kahului<br />

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Sioux City<br />

Lincoln<br />

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Fargo<br />

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Austin<br />

McAllen<br />

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Killeen<br />

Sioux<br />

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San Antonio<br />

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Thief River Falls<br />

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! Bemidji !<br />

Hibbing<br />

Grand Rapids<br />

!<br />

Duluth<br />

Brainerd<br />

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Marquette<br />

Iron Mountain<br />

!<br />

Sault Ste. Marie<br />

! !<br />

Rhinelander !<br />

!<br />

Escanaba<br />

Pellston<br />

Alpena<br />

!<br />

inneapolis !<br />

! Wau<br />

Green Bay !<br />

! Bangor<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Traverse City<br />

Burlington<br />

Rochester<br />

!<br />

Appleton<br />

! Watertown<br />

!<br />

Sioux Falls<br />

La Crosse<br />

!<br />

Saginaw<br />

Portland<br />

!<br />

Mason City<br />

Milwaukee<br />

Rochester<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Flint<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Madison<br />

Lansing<br />

Syracuse<br />

Manchester<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Fort Dodge<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Waterloo<br />

Grand Rapids<br />

Buffalo<br />

Albany<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Kalamazoo ! Detroit<br />

!<br />

! Erie Ithaca Binghamton<br />

Boston<br />

Cedar Rapids<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Chicago<br />

! South Bend<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Moline<br />

Toledo<br />

Elmira<br />

Hartford<br />

Des Moines<br />

!<br />

Cleveland<br />

Newburgh<br />

Providence<br />

!<br />

! Omaha<br />

Fort Wayne<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Akron<br />

Wilkes Barre<br />

Westchester County<br />

!<br />

State College !<br />

Peoria ! Bloomington<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Pittsburgh Allentown New York<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Champaign<br />

Dayton ! Columbus<br />

Harrisburg<br />

!<br />

Philadelphia<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Indianapolis<br />

!<br />

Baltimore<br />

ansas City !<br />

Columbia<br />

! Cincinnati<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! St. Louis<br />

Washington D.C.<br />

Louisville Huntington<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Charleston<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Charlottesville<br />

hita<br />

Evansville<br />

Lexington<br />

Lynchburg<br />

! Richmond<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Springfield<br />

Roanoke Hampton ! !<br />

Bristol<br />

Norfolk<br />

!<br />

! Tulsa Fayetteville<br />

Nashville<br />

Greensboro<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Knoxville<br />

!<br />

!<br />

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Raleigh<br />

!<br />

Asheville<br />

! Fort Smith Memphis<br />

!<br />

oma City<br />

!<br />

Chattanooga Charlotte Fayetteville<br />

!<br />

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Huntsville<br />

New Bern<br />

!<br />

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Muscle Shoals<br />

!<br />

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Greenville<br />

Jacksonville<br />

Little Rock<br />

Florence<br />

! Tupelo<br />

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Wilmington<br />

!<br />

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Greenville<br />

Birmingham<br />

Columbia<br />

!<br />

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! Atlanta<br />

Myrtle Beach<br />

Columbus<br />

allas<br />

n<br />

io<br />

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Monroe<br />

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Meridian<br />

Columbus<br />

Charleston<br />

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Shreveport<br />

!<br />

Jackson<br />

Montgomery<br />

Hilton Head<br />

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Laurel<br />

Albany<br />

!<br />

Savannah<br />

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Dothan<br />

! Alexandria<br />

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Mobile<br />

Valdosta Brunswick<br />

!<br />

Baton Rouge<br />

! Valparaiso<br />

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Houston<br />

Gulfport Pensacola<br />

Jacksonville<br />

Tallahassee<br />

Lafayette<br />

!<br />

New Orleans Panama City<br />

! Gainesville<br />

! Freeport<br />

!<br />

Daytona Beach<br />

!<br />

Orlando<br />

Tampa !<br />

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Melbourne<br />

Sarasota<br />

!<br />

Ft. Myers<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Key West<br />

West Palm Beach<br />

Fort Lauderdale<br />

Miami<br />

Nassau<br />

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USA routes including SkyTeam<br />

and KLM code-share partners<br />

KLM (from Amsterdam)<br />

Alaska Airlines<br />

Atlantic Southeast<br />

Comair Inc. USA<br />

Delta Air Lines<br />

Freedom<br />

Horizon Air Industries<br />

Mesaba<br />

Pinnacle<br />

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KLM MAPS<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 105


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Oita<br />

Kuqa<br />

Jeju<br />

Hami<br />

Cebu<br />

Aksu<br />

Qiemo<br />

Heihe<br />

Tunxi<br />

Lhasa<br />

Tokyo<br />

Yanji<br />

Wuhan<br />

Seoul<br />

Sanya<br />

Osaka<br />

Linyi<br />

Korla<br />

Jinan<br />

Hotan<br />

Hefei<br />

Hanoi<br />

Enshi<br />

Dhaka<br />

Dalat<br />

Daegu<br />

Busan<br />

Altay<br />

Yangon<br />

Wuzhou<br />

Weihai<br />

Penang<br />

Kuala Lampur<br />

Singapore<br />

Jining<br />

Toyama<br />

Xuzhou<br />

Pleiku<br />

Yantai<br />

Sendai<br />

Hailar<br />

Zhuhai<br />

Yining<br />

Xining<br />

Xiamen<br />

Urumqi<br />

Taipei<br />

Phuket<br />

Ningbo<br />

Nagoya<br />

Manila<br />

Luzhou<br />

Hohhot<br />

Harbin<br />

Handan<br />

Haikou<br />

Guilin<br />

Fuzhou<br />

Dayong<br />

Datong<br />

Daqing<br />

Dalian<br />

Ca Mau<br />

Beihai<br />

Baotou<br />

Aomori<br />

Anshan<br />

Lijiang<br />

Tuy Hoa<br />

Yichang<br />

Tongren<br />

Liuzhou<br />

Wenzhou<br />

Tianjin<br />

Taiyuan<br />

Shantou<br />

Sapporo<br />

Qiqihar<br />

Qingdao<br />

Okayama<br />

Niigata<br />

Nanyang<br />

Nantong<br />

Nanning<br />

Nanjing<br />

Luoyang<br />

Lanzhou<br />

Kunming<br />

Komatsu<br />

Karamay<br />

Jiamusi<br />

Guiyang<br />

Ganzhou<br />

Fukuoka<br />

Dandong<br />

Da Nang<br />

Con Dao<br />

Chifeng<br />

Chengdu<br />

Changde<br />

Can Tho<br />

Beijing<br />

Baoshan<br />

Bangkok<br />

Baishan<br />

Shizuoka<br />

Rach Gia<br />

Qui Nhon<br />

Xiangfan<br />

Mianyang<br />

Mei Xian<br />

Jiujiang<br />

Huangyan<br />

Song Pan<br />

Huai Hua<br />

Yinchuan<br />

Yancheng<br />

Wuyishan<br />

Shenzhen<br />

Shenyang<br />

Shanghai<br />

Phu Quoc<br />

Nanchong<br />

Nanchang<br />

Nagasaki<br />

Jinjiang<br />

Jinghong<br />

Hangzhou<br />

Hakodate<br />

Haiphong<br />

Dunhuang<br />

Dong Hoi<br />

Cheongju<br />

Changzhi<br />

Changsha<br />

Yun Cheng<br />

Kaohsiung<br />

Vientiane<br />

Hiroshima<br />

Nha Trang<br />

Zhanjiang<br />

Siem Reap<br />

Zhengzhou<br />

Sukhothai<br />

Koh Samui<br />

Kathmandu<br />

Kagoshima<br />

Hong Kong<br />

Guangzhou<br />

Dongsheng<br />

Dali City<br />

Chongqing<br />

Changzhou<br />

Changchun<br />

Phnom Penh<br />

Mudanjiang<br />

Chiang Mai<br />

Banmethuot<br />

Liping City<br />

Mohe County<br />

Lianyungang<br />

Tamky-Chulai<br />

Shijiazhuang<br />

Buerjin City<br />

Luang Prabang<br />

Kota Kinabalu<br />

Dien Bien Phu<br />

Ho Chi Minh City<br />

Taichung<br />

Koror<br />

!<br />

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Kuala Lampur<br />

Singapore<br />

Denpasar<br />

Jakarta<br />

KLM MAPS<br />

ASIA<br />

Sichuan Airlines<br />

Korean Air<br />

Malaysia Airlines<br />

Vietnam Airlines<br />

China Southern<br />

Asian routes including SkyTeam<br />

and KLM code-share partners<br />

KLM (from Amsterdam)<br />

Bangkok Airlines<br />

Garuda<br />

SkyTeam member


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AMSTERDAM & PARIS AIRPORT HUB GATES<br />

Amsterdam / Schiphol Airport, The Netherlands<br />

Gates B<br />

Gates C<br />

B35 B31 B27 B23 B17 B15 B13<br />

C16<br />

C15 - C18<br />

C13<br />

C14<br />

C12<br />

Paris / Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2, France<br />

TERMINAL 2E<br />

GATES E51 TO E76<br />

TERMINAL 2G<br />

GATES G21 TO G40<br />

B34 B30 B26 B22 B18<br />

B36 B32 B28 B24 B20 B16 B14 to B1 - B8<br />

C11<br />

Schengen<br />

Gates B-C, D 59-87, M<br />

D24<br />

D26<br />

D28<br />

C9<br />

E51<br />

-<br />

E76<br />

T<br />

C10<br />

D14<br />

D16<br />

D18<br />

D22<br />

D31 D29D27D25D23D21<br />

Gates D<br />

T Transfer desk<br />

T Transfer desk<br />

Self-service transfer<br />

Self-service transfer<br />

KLM Crown Lounge<br />

KLM Crown Lounge<br />

5<br />

4<br />

to C21 - C26<br />

4<br />

C8 C6 C4<br />

4<br />

C7 C5 T3<br />

T2<br />

D12<br />

D68 D10<br />

D66<br />

D42<br />

D44D72<br />

D46D74<br />

D48D76<br />

D52 D78<br />

D54D82<br />

5<br />

D56D84<br />

D47<br />

D86<br />

D49 D77<br />

D51 D79<br />

D53 D81<br />

D55 D83<br />

D57D85<br />

D87<br />

D87<br />

KEY<br />

Lounge<br />

1<br />

F41-F43<br />

F56<br />

F54-F55<br />

F53<br />

TERMINAL 2E<br />

108 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK<br />

F52<br />

D2<br />

D4 D60<br />

D8 D62<br />

D64<br />

3<br />

T5 T4<br />

D3<br />

D5 D59<br />

D7 D61<br />

D63<br />

F51<br />

D41<br />

D71<br />

D43<br />

D73<br />

Check-in<br />

Self-Service Check-in<br />

8<br />

3<br />

Schiphol<br />

World<br />

Avenue<br />

1<br />

12<br />

2<br />

Lounge<br />

2<br />

T<br />

T<br />

T<br />

F44-F45 F36 T<br />

F2 F46<br />

F35<br />

F1<br />

F47<br />

F34<br />

F48<br />

F33<br />

F49<br />

F50<br />

TERMINAL 2F<br />

Schengen<br />

F32<br />

F31<br />

1<br />

E2<br />

E4 E3<br />

E6 E5<br />

E8<br />

Gates E<br />

T6<br />

Schiphol Plaza<br />

E7<br />

E15 E9<br />

E18 E17<br />

E20<br />

E22<br />

E24<br />

Passport control /<br />

Security check<br />

A1 Gate Numbers<br />

4<br />

Baggage Claim<br />

7<br />

Holland Boulevard<br />

E19<br />

5<br />

5<br />

F21-F25<br />

F26<br />

F27<br />

F28<br />

F29<br />

F30<br />

3<br />

KLM<br />

Crown<br />

Lounge<br />

25<br />

Gates D<br />

Walking distance from point to<br />

point (average time in minutes)<br />

F2<br />

2<br />

T8<br />

F4<br />

Thalys/RER/TGV<br />

Railway station<br />

Lounge<br />

4<br />

1<br />

Lounge<br />

3<br />

F3<br />

F6<br />

Gates F<br />

Gates M<br />

3<br />

F8<br />

C88-C89<br />

A48-A49<br />

A46-A47<br />

A44-A45<br />

C90-C91 A50-A51 A42-A43<br />

A40-A41<br />

C86-C87 C84-C85 C82-C83<br />

C80-C81<br />

T<br />

T<br />

D53-D54<br />

M1 H2<br />

3<br />

F5<br />

F9<br />

5<br />

5<br />

T<br />

H1<br />

F7<br />

M6<br />

G2<br />

M7<br />

M4 H5<br />

M3 4 H4<br />

M2 H3<br />

G11-16<br />

3<br />

6<br />

T9<br />

G3<br />

M5 H6<br />

G5<br />

G4<br />

TERMINAL 2C<br />

1<br />

1<br />

H7<br />

D55-D56<br />

D57-D58<br />

D60-D61<br />

D61-D62<br />

3<br />

Gates H<br />

G7<br />

G6<br />

TERMINAL 2D<br />

KLM and Alitalia fl ights arrive at and<br />

depart from Terminal 2F, Gates F21 to F36.<br />

Air France fl ights arrive at and depart from<br />

Terminals 2C, 2D, 2E and 2F.<br />

G9<br />

G8<br />

Gates G<br />

4<br />

D72-D73<br />

D64-D65<br />

D70-D71<br />

D74<br />

D76<br />

4<br />

4 4<br />

T<br />

KLM fl ights arrive at and<br />

depart from gates B, C, D, E, F.<br />

Air France and Alitalia<br />

fl ights arrive at and depart<br />

from gates B and C.<br />

Korean Air fl ights arrive at<br />

and depart from gate G.<br />

Delta fl ights arrive at and<br />

depart from gate E.<br />

Czech Airlines fl ights arrive<br />

at and depart from gate D.<br />

Aerofl ot fl ights arrive at and<br />

depart from gates B and G.<br />

KLM passengers travelling to<br />

Antwerp (Thalys) and<br />

Rotterdam (NS): Please<br />

collect your luggage in<br />

Amsterdam and exchange<br />

your KLM (e-)ticket for a<br />

Thalys or NS ticket at the<br />

Netherlands Railways<br />

(NS ) desk at Schiphol<br />

Plaza (just past immigration).<br />

TERMINAL 2A<br />

1<br />

1<br />

T<br />

B33-34<br />

B21-B22<br />

B31-B32<br />

B23-B24 B26-B27-B28B29-B30<br />

B25<br />

3<br />

3<br />

TERMINAL 2B<br />

Self-service transfer<br />

Landside connection shuttle<br />

to/from Terminal 2G<br />

T Transfer desk 1 Transfer by shuttle 1 outside Customs Area<br />

Air France Lounge<br />

Top Level<br />

Second floor<br />

Transfer by train<br />

KLM Crown Lounge<br />

52<br />

Passengers with access<br />

to KLM’s Crown Lounges<br />

who are arriving on<br />

intercontinental fl ights and<br />

transferring to European<br />

(Schengen) fl ights are<br />

kindly advised to use Crown<br />

Lounge 25, located near the<br />

Schengen gates and behind<br />

passport control.<br />

Delta, AeroMexico, Korean Air and Aerofl ot<br />

fl ights arrive at and depart from Terminal 2E.<br />

Czech Airlines fl ights arrive at and depart<br />

from Terminal 2D.<br />

Transfer by shuttle bus inside Customs Area<br />

Transfer by shuttle bus inside Customs Area,<br />

only between 7:30am and 4:15pm


Hand baggage rules at EU airports<br />

To increase passenger safety, security rules for hand luggage are in place for all fl ights, in accordance with<br />

European Union regulations. When passing through security control, you will be required to present liquids, gels,<br />

pastes, lotions and aerosols separately, in individual containers of not more than 100ml, packaged in a resealable,<br />

transparent plastic bag (maximum volume 1 litre, 1 bag per person).<br />

Airport shopping<br />

in the EU<br />

Within the European Union,<br />

liquids and gels that you purchase<br />

after passing through passport<br />

control or on board the aircraft<br />

will be packaged and sealed for you,<br />

together with the receipt.<br />

The unbroken seal is valid for<br />

24 hours.<br />

Airport shopping<br />

outside the EU<br />

If you buy liquids or gels at a<br />

non-EU airport and change planes at<br />

an EU airport, your purchases will be<br />

confi scated at the EU airport security<br />

check. This can also happen for<br />

purchases you make on board an<br />

aircraft operated by an airline from<br />

a non-EU country. For further<br />

information, visit klm.com.<br />

KLM AMSTERDAM MAP<br />

Animal products<br />

To prevent the spread of animal<br />

diseases, you are prohibited from<br />

entering the EU with meat, meat<br />

products, milk and milk products. Small<br />

quantities for personal use are<br />

permitted on arrival from Andorra, the<br />

Faroe Islands, Greenland, Iceland,<br />

Liechtenstein, Norway, San Marino and<br />

Switzerland. For further information,<br />

visit europa.eu.<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 109


KLM FIT FOR FLYING<br />

Our handy hints can help you to stay feeling great both during and after the<br />

fl ight. Exercises should be performed slowly with steady, even breathing<br />

10 TIMES 15 TIMES 30 TIMES 5 TIMES 10 TIMES 15 TIMES<br />

Feet<br />

With your heels on<br />

the fl oor, stretch your<br />

toes upwards. Then,<br />

keeping your toes on<br />

the fl oor, stretch your<br />

heel upwards.<br />

Relax whilst fl ying<br />

Statistics show that fl ying is much safer<br />

than many situations in our daily lives<br />

The crew in control of the plane are<br />

highly trained and experienced<br />

KLM aircraft are maintained and designed<br />

to withstand all sorts of turbulence<br />

Try to relax — breathe in deeply through<br />

your nose, hold for three seconds and<br />

exhale slowly<br />

KLM partner, VALK Foundation, can<br />

offer support to people with a fear<br />

of fl ying. Visit valk.org or<br />

call +31 71 5273733<br />

HOUSE RULES<br />

Rotate your foot fi rst<br />

in one direction and<br />

then the other.<br />

All electronic devices must<br />

be turned off completely whilst<br />

walking to/from the aircraft, and<br />

during take-off, approach<br />

and landing.<br />

The only electronic devices<br />

which may be used during<br />

the fl ight and ground<br />

stop are:<br />

• Mobile phones, PDAs or<br />

other devices with a ’fl ight’<br />

mode or ‘fl ight safe’ setting.<br />

This must be activated<br />

110 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK<br />

Ankles Knees Shoulders Legs Back and arms<br />

Raise your leg,<br />

tensing the muscles<br />

of your thigh.<br />

During the fl ight<br />

With your hands<br />

on your thighs, rotate<br />

your shoulders in a<br />

circular motion.<br />

Ear pain? Pinch your nose shut,<br />

close your mouth and swallow or<br />

blow out against your closed mouth.<br />

Alternatively, chew gum<br />

Stimulate your circulation by<br />

walking around in the cabin and<br />

stretching<br />

Avoid sitting with your legs crossed<br />

as this restricts circulation<br />

Taking your shoes off might be<br />

more comfortable<br />

Drink plenty of water and not too<br />

much alcohol<br />

before the aircraft<br />

doors are closed.<br />

• Laptops, if the<br />

WLAN/WiFi is<br />

turned off.<br />

• Electronic games,<br />

MP3, DVD and<br />

CD players.<br />

Cabin crew can request all<br />

electronic devices to be switched<br />

off completely if circumstances<br />

so dictate.<br />

Bend forward slightly.<br />

Wrap your hands<br />

around your knee<br />

and raise it to your<br />

chest. Hold for 15<br />

seconds.<br />

Reducing jetlag<br />

Place both feet<br />

fl at on the ground<br />

and hold in your<br />

stomach. Bend<br />

forward, moving<br />

your hands down<br />

your legs.<br />

Start adjusting your body clock<br />

to the time zone of your<br />

destination the night before departure<br />

by going to bed earlier or later<br />

Don’t eat too heavily the night<br />

before you leave, or drink too<br />

much alcohol<br />

Eat protein-rich meals at times<br />

that are normal for your new<br />

time zone<br />

At your destination, take light<br />

exercise, such as a walk<br />

Spend at least 30 minutes in daylight<br />

Drinks are served one at<br />

a time to passengers<br />

occupying their assigned<br />

seats. For safety reasons,<br />

the purser may close the<br />

bar. Passengers are not permitted<br />

to drink alcoholic beverages<br />

brought on board with them.<br />

Smoking, including<br />

artifi cial cigarettes, such as<br />

‘SuperSmokers’, is strictly forbidden<br />

at all times on KLM fl ights.


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