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Holland Herald<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2012</strong> YOUR COPY TO KEEP<br />

THE<br />

home<br />

ISSUE


Craftsmanship for over 60 years<br />

Gassan Diamonds<br />

Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173 - 175<br />

1011 LN Amsterdam<br />

T: +31 (0)20 622 5333<br />

Gassan Dam Square<br />

Rokin 1-5 (Dam)<br />

1012 KK Amsterdam<br />

T: +31 (0)20 624 5787<br />

www.gassan.com<br />

Gassan Schiphol<br />

Dep. Lounges 1,2,3,4 & Arrival hall 3<br />

1118 AV Schiphol The Netherlands<br />

T. +31(0)20 4059920


Engineered for men who<br />

know that the best things<br />

in life are complicated.<br />

Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5023: You don’t need to walk on the surface of the moon to succumb to its fascination; after<br />

all, its effects are omnipresent here on earth. Its gravitational pull causes the rise and fall of the tides. Its appearance and disappearance<br />

mark the end and the beginning of each day. And wonders of all kinds have been ascribed to the full moon for as long as anyone can<br />

remember. These qualities were the inspiration for the master watchmakers at IWC who developed the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar.<br />

The 18-carat red gold case houses an impressive automatic movement with a perpetual calendar and perpetual moon phase display,<br />

countdown to the next full moon and a Pellaton automatic winding system, to mention only the most sophisticated of its complications.<br />

Needless to say, it runs with the same unerring precision as the moon in its orbit around our planet. IWC. Engineered for men.<br />

IWC Schaffhausen Boutiques: Paris I Vienna I Madrid I Moscow I New York I Shanghai I Dubai I Hong Kong I Geneva I Zurich www.iwc.com<br />

For more information please call +31 20 5246 777.


TOPAS – HANDMADE MEETS HIGH-TECH. Since its introduction in the 1950s, we have continued to further develop<br />

the legendary aluminium case. Its fundamental formula has remained the same: highest quality down to the very last detail.<br />

That is why we still conduct many of the assembly stages, in which TOPAS, TOPAS TITANIUM and TOPAS STEALTH<br />

are created, by hand.<br />

www.rimowa.com<br />

TOPAS Multiwheel ®


Cover illustration: Helen Musselwhite/Handsome Frank. Photo above: Helen Musselwhite<br />

17 The home fi les<br />

Some quirky homes for birds, biking<br />

through a living room, and a very<br />

small tree house<br />

24 Facts & fi gures<br />

Home by numbers, factoids and tiny<br />

nuggets of info<br />

40 Dutch interiors<br />

The calm charm of homes in The<br />

Netherlands<br />

54 Become a butler<br />

The Dutch academy training butlers<br />

for the super-rich<br />

Amsterdam<br />

28<br />

As the canals of the Dutch capital<br />

turn 400 years old, it’s time to<br />

explore the city’s waterways<br />

The home issue<br />

36<br />

Photography<br />

Images from Jeroen Toirkens, and his<br />

project following nomadic tribes<br />

across the world<br />

CONTENTS<br />

Welcome to the December issue. The theme this month is ‘home’, as<br />

illustrated by the exclusive artwork on the front cover. This cosy winter<br />

scene was created by Helen Musselwhite. Working with paper and<br />

scalpel, she creates 3D scenes that are placed in a lightbox (see left) and<br />

photographed. The scene here was partly infl uenced by the Dutch<br />

countryside, with a warm glow coming from a traditional Dutch house,<br />

and children skating along a frozen canal. Enjoy your fl ight.<br />

Zimbabwe<br />

48<br />

The troubled nation is opening its<br />

doors again, revealing a warm<br />

welcome and astonishing nature<br />

44<br />

Living on Mars<br />

Dutch Nobel Prize winner Gerard<br />

‘t Hooft on how to get humans living<br />

on Mars by 2023<br />

10<br />

61<br />

65<br />

77<br />

Frontlines<br />

Little bits of everything<br />

Updates<br />

What’s on in<br />

The Netherlands<br />

Touchdowns<br />

The best<br />

city guides<br />

Photo competition<br />

Your chance to<br />

inspire us and win<br />

Holland Herald 7


CONTENTS<br />

KLM Travellers Check<br />

83 Hartman Quarterly<br />

KLM CEO Peter Hartman<br />

84 Products & services<br />

Economy Comfort and a staff award<br />

87 Flying Blue news<br />

The latest info for frequent fl yers<br />

89 Entertainment<br />

A world of audio and video<br />

91 KLM takes care<br />

Catering with a conscience<br />

93 SkyTeam news<br />

The latest from SkyTeam<br />

119 *<br />

Shopping<br />

8 Holland Herald<br />

inflight<br />

boutique<br />

95 KLM partners<br />

KLM’s extensive partner network<br />

97 KLM fl eet<br />

The plane facts<br />

99 Route maps<br />

The world at your fi ngertips<br />

107 Airport hubs<br />

Amsterdam and Paris<br />

109 Amsterdam map<br />

Around town<br />

110 Fit for fl ying<br />

Tips and exercises<br />

Enjoy our wide selection of<br />

tax-free products on intercontinental<br />

and selected European fl ights<br />

TAX-FREE SHOPPING IN THE AIR<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER <strong>2012</strong><br />

82 PAGES<br />

Best deals<br />

& exclusive<br />

gift ideas<br />

BEAUTY > WATCHES WWATCHES<br />

> JEWELLERY > GADGETS > AND MORE...<br />

*The Shopping section n is not included in Holland Herald on most short-haul fl ights<br />

Holland Herald<br />

holland-herald.com<br />

Volume 47 Number 12<br />

December <strong>2012</strong><br />

Published by Ink, London, UK<br />

Editorial by MediaPartners Group,<br />

Amstelveen, The Netherlands<br />

KLM Media Manager<br />

Lotte Gouverneur<br />

EDITORIAL<br />

Editor-in-Chief Mike Cooper<br />

Editor Matt Farquharson<br />

Travellers Check Editor Kevin Haworth<br />

Art Director Esther Tji<br />

Concept Lava, Amsterdam<br />

Designer Allan Grotjohann<br />

Photo Editor Janine Bekker<br />

Contributors Mark Eveleigh, Julia Gorodecky,<br />

Annemarie Hoeve, Rene van der Hulst, Cecily<br />

Layzell, Lectrr, Fulco Smit Roeters, Mark Smith,<br />

Jane Szita, Sam Vanallemeersch, Anna<br />

Whitehouse<br />

MediaPartners Group<br />

PO Box 2215<br />

1180 EE Amstelveen<br />

The Netherlands<br />

Editorial inquiries +31 20 5473600<br />

mikecooper@mediapartners.nl<br />

PUBLISHER<br />

Chief Executive Jeffrey O’Rourke<br />

Executive Creative Director Michael Keating<br />

Chief Operating Officer Hugh Godsal<br />

Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />

Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />

Production Controller Helen Hind<br />

Holland Herald is published on behalf<br />

of KLM Royal Dutch Airlines by Ink<br />

141-143 Shoreditch High Street,<br />

London E1 6JE, United Kingdom<br />

Advertising: +44 20 76136947<br />

info@ink-global.com<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

Commercial Director<br />

Kevin Rolfe<br />

+44 20 76138772<br />

Publisher<br />

Martin Brackenbury<br />

Benelux and Middle East representation<br />

Giovanni Angiolini<br />

Gio Media<br />

giovanni@gio-media.nl<br />

+971 4 4466158<br />

+31 6 22238420<br />

Shopping S Pages Design and Concept<br />

Eline E Gambino-Lebens<br />

Shopping S Photography/Production Ink<br />

Lithography L<br />

by Grafimedia Amsterdam<br />

Printed P by Roularta Printing<br />

ISSN I 0018-3563<br />

Reproduction R<br />

without written per mission is prohibited.<br />

The T publisher accepts no responsibility for un solicited<br />

mmaterial.<br />

The publisher has made every effort to arrange<br />

copyright c in accordance with existing legislation. Those<br />

wwho<br />

feel that rights may apply to them can, in spite of<br />

tthis,<br />

contact the publisher.


Create content easily using S Pen<br />

Ultra-fast with 1.4GHz Quad Core processor<br />

Work efficiently using Multi Screen<br />

Flexible memory options (MicroSD, 50GB Dropbox)<br />

facebook.com/SamsungMobileNL


Frontlines<br />

Arts, design,<br />

culture, events<br />

and ideas from<br />

across the globe<br />

{}<br />

Keep your friends<br />

close and your<br />

enemies closer, with<br />

the Godfather edition<br />

of Monopoly. It marks<br />

the 40th anniversary<br />

of the cult trilogy.<br />

Travel the board<br />

with themed tokens<br />

including a horse<br />

head, cannoli, Genco<br />

Olive Oil tin, dead fi sh<br />

or tommy gun. See<br />

usaopoly.com.<br />

10 Holland Herald<br />

Words: Annemarie Hoeve<br />

Don Corleone takes<br />

over Park Place<br />

TRAVEL<br />

New<br />

Photo: Hillandaubrey.com, model: Tom Nelson<br />

Aurora and ice<br />

Photography ■ Iceland winter tour<br />

Two tours are<br />

scheduled in<br />

January. Or for<br />

warm-blooded<br />

photo buffs,<br />

there is a summer<br />

adventure tour<br />

departing in late<br />

June/early July.<br />

See arcticphoto.is.<br />

With ice caves, frozen waterfalls, glacier lagoons and the eerie<br />

aurora borealis, Iceland in winter is heaven for landscape<br />

photographers. But, have you ever tried photographing icebergs<br />

in the pre-dawn twilight? Getting that perfect shot is more<br />

complicated than just pressing a button. Local mountaineer and<br />

pro photographer Örvar Thorgeirsson shows serious enthusiasts<br />

the ropes on this exclusive fi ve-day tour.<br />

Handsome coat<br />

Fashion ■ Winter warmer<br />

Designer Desig Chan Si proves that<br />

the young y and good-looking<br />

can look l cool in anything.<br />

Yet, Yet, hher<br />

Hug Me coat is more<br />

about abou warmth than fashion.<br />

On th the one hand, the puffy<br />

lining lining keeps winter weather<br />

at bay, ba while on the other<br />

hand, hand or in this case hands,<br />

it incorporates inc<br />

multiple<br />

cuddles cudd to “make people feel<br />

warm and hugged”.<br />

The jacket is part of<br />

Chan’s graduation<br />

collection for the<br />

London College<br />

of Fashion. See<br />

showtime.arts.<br />

ac.uk/chansiieong.


TREATS<br />

ART<br />

Be chic hic with a clear conscience,<br />

with these handbags from Dutch<br />

designer Omar Munie - made from<br />

old, recycled KLM uniforms. See<br />

omarmunie.com, or the short fi lm on<br />

your in-fl ight entertainment.<br />

Kindle rekindled<br />

New ■ Paper e-book<br />

These days, anything can be art - even broken<br />

gadgets. Inspired by the oddly intriguing images to<br />

be seen on broken e-reader screens, Sebastian<br />

Schmieg and Silvio Lorusso collected their favourite<br />

examples in a print-on-demand picture book entitled<br />

56 Broken Kindles. Coming soon to Kindle? Available<br />

at lulu.com.<br />

WWhy<br />

do most air fresheners<br />

ssmell<br />

like fl owers? Archer<br />

pproduces<br />

an ultra-masculine<br />

vversion<br />

in three scents:<br />

EEuropean<br />

sports car, distillery<br />

oor<br />

hunting lodge. See<br />

aarchermen.com.<br />

Don’t miss<br />

The art circuit<br />

Design ■ Tube map radio<br />

FRONTLINES<br />

Colour-code the<br />

tree this year with<br />

Pantone Christmas<br />

ornaments. Play it<br />

safe with Pantone<br />

186 (red) or go to<br />

town with the<br />

whole palette. See<br />

seletti.it.<br />

When Harry Beck created his iconic map of the London<br />

underground in 1931, people compared its sleek lines<br />

to diagrams of electrical circuits. Now, the Tube map<br />

has come full circle with Yuri Suzuki’s latest creation.<br />

During his residency at London’s Design Museum, Suzuki<br />

recreated the Tube map in a circuit board that actually<br />

works as a radio. It’s all part of his quest to demystify<br />

electronics. On show at the Design Museum until 13<br />

January, 2013. See yurisuzuki.com.<br />

BOOKS<br />

Great to Cool<br />

‘Brain agent’ René C.W.<br />

Boender promises to<br />

enhance your ‘business<br />

happiness’ in his book<br />

Great to Cool. Using wellknown<br />

quotes from writers, ,<br />

thinkers and business<br />

people through the ages,<br />

he provides a series<br />

of motivational nuggets<br />

(or ‘brain candies’)<br />

for the modern business<br />

person. Published by<br />

Bertram and De Leeuw.<br />

See bertramendeleeuw.nl<br />

for more.<br />

Holland Herald 11


FRONTLINES<br />

MUSIC<br />

State-X New Forms<br />

Festival ■ 14-15 December<br />

Idiosyncratic American director David Lynch composed all the<br />

music for the recent album, This Train, featuring his long-term<br />

collaborator and sultry muse Chrysta Bell. She will be one<br />

of the guests at this annual festival, which pays homage to<br />

avant-garde rock, cutting-edge electronics and nu-art. Also<br />

on the bill are Fantastic Mr Fox (UK), Tall Ships (UK), and Boris<br />

(Japan). For more see state-xnewforms.nl. And for more events<br />

in Amsterdam and The Netherlands, turn to pages 61 and 63.<br />

12 Holland Herald<br />

ARCHITECTURE<br />

DIY Le Corbusier<br />

Hype ■ LEGO tribute<br />

Villa Savoye, a late 1920s building on the<br />

outskirts of Paris, placed architect Le<br />

Corbusier fi rmly among the 20th-century<br />

greats. Now, as a tribute to the modernist<br />

master, LEGO has released a DIY set to build<br />

your own model. It’s the latest in a series<br />

of architectural sets including the Sydney<br />

Opera House and Dubai’s Burj Khalifa. See<br />

architecture.lego.com.<br />

Design pitch<br />

Play ■ Foosball coffee table<br />

Furniture<br />

Three Italian passions come together in<br />

this unusual piece of furniture: coffee,<br />

football and design. This is the Intervallo<br />

glass foosball coffee table. The result of<br />

a product brainstorm after one too many<br />

espressos? The Italian makers, Teckell, have<br />

a more poetic take on it: “Life is a game<br />

and we are its players.” Also available in a<br />

full-scale version. See teckell.com.


FRONTLINES<br />

INTERNET<br />

14 Holland Herald<br />

Instant art critic<br />

Online ■ Expert opinion<br />

Biggest jellyfish<br />

“As an advocate of the Big<br />

Mac Aesthetic, I feel that<br />

the internal dynamic of the<br />

negative space spatially<br />

undermines the distinctive<br />

formal juxtapositions.” If this<br />

sentence baffl es you, don’t<br />

worry. It’s meant to. In the<br />

same way that art criticism<br />

can seem entirely geared<br />

towards confusing rather<br />

than clarifying, the sentence<br />

comes from an online ‘instant<br />

art phrase generator’. Type<br />

in any random number and<br />

enjoy the arty mumbo-jumbo.<br />

See pixmaven.com/phrase_<br />

generator.html.<br />

The lion’s mane jellyfi sh is<br />

the biggest known species<br />

of jellyfi sh, with a body of up<br />

to 70 centimetres across and<br />

tentacles of 15 metres. Russian<br />

marine biologist Alexander<br />

Semenov recently managed to<br />

capture the aquatic giant on<br />

camera in the icy waters of the<br />

Russian White Sea. Home to the<br />

White Sea Biological Station,<br />

this northern sea is twice the<br />

size of Denmark. Photo: Stan Honda/AFP/ANP<br />

Illustration: Allan Grotjohann<br />

Machine<br />

Cheers!<br />

Serious gear ■ Home microbrewery<br />

Authentic fake<br />

Swiss scientist Francis W. M.<br />

R. Schwarze has found two<br />

types of tree fungus that can<br />

reproduce the rare, highly<br />

dense wood used by Antonio<br />

Stradivari over 300 years ago to<br />

make his world-famous violins.<br />

In a blind test, listeners could<br />

not tell the difference between<br />

a modern instrument made<br />

of the treated wood and an<br />

authentic 1711 Stradivarius.<br />

Spare room in the basement? Perhaps this automated brewing<br />

system by Hammacher Schlemmer can fi ll the void (and free<br />

up the bathtub). It’s the same type used in professional<br />

microbreweries, but has been scaled down to a size more suitable<br />

for home use. Electronic sensors do all of the work. Just enter the<br />

recipe (a lager, Hefeweizen wheat beer or stout) on the touch<br />

screen and pour in the ingredients. Comes complete with beer<br />

steins. See hammacher.com.


Altijd een oplossing. Linksom of rechtsom.<br />

Rabobank. De grootste exportfinancier van Nederland.<br />

Als het gaat om de exportmarkt kun je de Rabobank wel de ‘linking pin’ noemen. We kennen de markten. We kennen de exportstromen.<br />

We kennen de wereld. En we kennen de partijen die er toe doen bij een financieringsvraag. Een vraag die we overigens zelden met ‘nee’<br />

beantwoorden. Want met onze coöperatieve achtergrond vinden we altijd een oplossing. Linksom of rechtsom. We doen het nu eenmaal<br />

op onze eigen manier. De manier waarop we wereldspeler zijn geworden.<br />

www.rabobank.nl/wholesale<br />

Een wereldspeler die zichzelf<br />

blijft. Dat is het idee.<br />

Rabobank. Een bank met ideeën.


THE FILES #01 HOME<br />

Open kitchen<br />

Photographer Erik Klein<br />

Wolterink has spent a lot of<br />

time in Dutch kitchens, gently<br />

persuading the owners to<br />

remove doors and hinges.<br />

With his project, Kitchen<br />

Portraits, he shoots the<br />

contents of individual<br />

cupboards, drawers and<br />

ovens, then assembles the<br />

results into one tight shot.<br />

He’s particularly interested in<br />

how different cultures live<br />

and eat. This particular<br />

kitchen belongs to some<br />

Amsterdammers from<br />

Ghana.<br />

ERIKKLEINWOLTERINK.NL<br />

Holland Herald 17


The New Dutch Masterpiece<br />

There is no better way to see Amsterdam than<br />

through the eyes of the Clefs d’Or Concierge of<br />

one of the city’s finest hotels. Drawing on years of<br />

experience, the talented concierge team of<br />

De L’Europe expertly create unique experiences to<br />

unveil Amsterdam’s little gems.<br />

Since the opening in 1896, De<br />

L’Europe has been favoured by<br />

Amsterdam’s elite and the hotel<br />

continues to attract the world’s<br />

most celebrated names. A concierge<br />

breathing the credo “the<br />

answer is yes, what is your question?”,<br />

is what comes in handy<br />

in a world where everything is<br />

expected to be possible.<br />

Although embracing the magic<br />

of this winter’s festive season<br />

is topping most travel wish-lists<br />

–getting 2013 off the ground is<br />

really what the concierges of this<br />

Leading Hotel of the World are<br />

looking forward to. A promising<br />

year, filled with cultural highlights.<br />

With the recent opening of the<br />

“Stedelijk Museum” & the 400th<br />

anniversary of Amsterdam’s<br />

canals, the concierges are all eagerly<br />

awaiting the re-opening of<br />

the world-famous “Rijksmuseum”.<br />

Tickets are stored behind their<br />

luxurious concierge desk padded<br />

with hand-painted delfts-blue<br />

tiles, ready for their guests to go<br />

and admire the original pieces<br />

of the meticulously replicated<br />

Dutch Master paintings their<br />

rooms are decorated with.<br />

Rembrandt van Rijn, Johannes<br />

Vermeer, Frans Hals, all the<br />

Dutch Masters have a room here.<br />

What about you?<br />

Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-14 , 1012 CP Amsterdam, The Netherlands<br />

T: +31 (0)20 531 17 77 E: hotel@leurope.nl, www.leurope.nl<br />

The Concierge recommends…<br />

1. Visit. The well-hidden Begijnhof, a scenic inner court and an oases of<br />

calm in the heart of Amsterdam’s buzzing city centre. Entrance free of<br />

charge, Spui, Amsterdam.<br />

2. Restaurant. Bord’Eau for a culinary masterpiece, savour French cuisine<br />

and scenic river views. Tempo Doeloe for the Indonesian Rice Table<br />

Amsterdam is famous for. Bord’Eau, De L’Europe,<br />

Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-14. Tempo Doeloe, Utrechtsestraat 75.<br />

3. Canals. Enjoy the UNESCO world heritage canals in style from the<br />

private hotel Salon Boat. De L’Europe, Daily Salon Boat at 10.30 am,<br />

€ 38 p.p, hotel guests only.<br />

4. Local beer. Visit Freddy’s Bar and enjoy a local beer at Alfred “Freddy”<br />

Heineken’s favourite bar. Famed for its Bloody Mary’s and selected as<br />

Netherlands best cocktail bar. Order a draft beer and the “bitterballen”,<br />

and they will respect you as a true local. Freddy’s, De L’Europe, Nieuwe<br />

Doelenstraat 2.<br />

The De L’Europe Concierges would be delighted to custom make your<br />

ultimate Amsterdam experience. Hotel guests exclusive.


THE FILES #02 HOME<br />

Carpet cruise<br />

This young biker carving up<br />

the living room was shot by<br />

photographer Tim<br />

Macpherson, with just a few<br />

household objects and a lot<br />

of imagination. It was<br />

recently used as part of an<br />

ad campaign for Mother’s<br />

Pride schools in India.<br />

TIMMACPHERSON.COM<br />

Holland Herald 19


THE FILES #03 HOME<br />

Bijou living<br />

In a construction that may be<br />

the world smallest but most<br />

intricately built tree house,<br />

Takanori Aiba has created a<br />

tiny dwelling in a bonsai tree.<br />

It’s about ’the beauty of<br />

spiritual accordance between<br />

human and nature in<br />

miniature’, apparently.<br />

TOKYOGOODIDEA.COM<br />

Holland Herald 21


THE FILES #04 HOME<br />

Nest in show<br />

These bird abodes are the<br />

work of Californian artist Jeff<br />

Canham. Hang them for any<br />

world-weary avian visitors to<br />

your garden.<br />

JEFFCANHAM.COM<br />

Holland Herald 23


Facts<br />

figures +<br />

Numbers, knowledge<br />

and nuggets of home info<br />

Words: Anna Whitehouse<br />

Illustrations: Sam Vanallemeersch<br />

Fishy tale<br />

26 hours<br />

An Alaskan fisherman was recently<br />

found miles away from home, floating<br />

in a plastic fish crate. After his boat<br />

sank, Ryan Harris, 19, spent more than<br />

26 hours bobbing about until the local<br />

coastguard spotted him. He told the<br />

local emergency services that he sang<br />

songs like Row, Row, Row Your Boat<br />

and Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer<br />

to keep his spirits up and stayed alive<br />

in the freezing climes by giving himself<br />

a pep talk, saying for hours on end:<br />

“I’m Ryan Hunter Harris and I’m not<br />

going to die here.”<br />

24 Holland Herald<br />

Room service<br />

€50,000 per night<br />

As a home from home goes,<br />

the Royal Penthouse Suite at<br />

the Hotel President Wilson in<br />

Geneva is just the ticket. Not<br />

only does it have bulletproof<br />

doors and windows, it has<br />

a private elevator to whisk<br />

guests to the 12-room<br />

apartment, which has a<br />

Steinway grand piano, billiard<br />

room and personal library. All<br />

for €50,000 per night.<br />

Ghost story<br />

3 ghosts<br />

High and<br />

mighty<br />

$1 billion<br />

HOME<br />

Located in Mumbai,<br />

Antilla challenges<br />

pretty much every<br />

archeological and<br />

financial possibility in<br />

a home. The 27-storey<br />

house has six floors<br />

of parking, a health<br />

level with jacuzzi,<br />

gym and ‘ice room’, a<br />

ballroom level, several<br />

floors of bedrooms<br />

and bathrooms<br />

and a four-storey<br />

garden. The $1 billion<br />

structure is based on<br />

an Indian tradition<br />

called Vastu Shastra,<br />

which is supposed<br />

to be conducive to<br />

movement.<br />

Everyone has heard of haunted houses, but the most<br />

famous of them all is the White House. The most<br />

commonly seen ghost is Abigail Adams, the wife of US<br />

president John Adams. Some claim they have seen her<br />

hanging laundry in the East Room, where she used to<br />

spend a lot of time when she was alive. And Winston<br />

Churchill claimed to have spotted Abraham Lincoln.<br />

“Home life is no more natural to us than<br />

a cage is natural to a cockatoo”<br />

George Bernard Shaw


Facts+<br />

figures<br />

Snakes ’n’ shudders<br />

5m python<br />

A couple visiting Kruger National Park<br />

in South Africa had a bit of a<br />

fright when a 5m python slithered into<br />

their car. The pair lifted the bonnet of<br />

the vehicle to reveal the mammoth<br />

reptile had made itself at home. It was<br />

eventually removed by a park ranger<br />

with a big stick. “That doesn’t happen<br />

every day, eh?” the ranger said to<br />

console the duo.<br />

Not on your nelly<br />

200 metres<br />

Two elephants from a travelling<br />

circus recently escaped into<br />

Copenhagen and found themselves<br />

strolling along a road packed with<br />

rush hour traffic. Sonia and Vana<br />

Mana made a 200-metre dash<br />

through the busy streets until their<br />

owner caught up with them. Police<br />

blocked the road so the humongous<br />

mammals could return home unhurt.<br />

“They were walking past the<br />

morning traffic trunk-to-tail,” said<br />

one policeman.<br />

26 Holland Herald<br />

“Human beings are<br />

the only creatures on earth that allow<br />

their children to come back home”<br />

Gangster paradise<br />

50m pile<br />

Former convict Nikolai Sutyagin began building<br />

his wooden skyscraper in Arkhangelsk, Russia,<br />

with the intention of it being only a two-storey<br />

building. The abode grew after he saw pictures<br />

of wooden houses in Japan and Norway.<br />

“First I added three floors but then the house<br />

looked ungainly, like a mushroom,” he said.<br />

“So I added another and it still didn’t<br />

look right so I kept going. What you<br />

see today is a happy accident,” he<br />

said of the 13-storey, 50m tall home.<br />

Bog standards<br />

420sqm toilet<br />

Bill Cosby<br />

HOME<br />

Korean Sim Jae-Duck was born in a lavatory.<br />

He has gone on to form the World Toilet<br />

Association, a campaign for more sanitary<br />

restrooms worldwide. He even lives in a 420sqm,<br />

$1.6 million toilet-shaped house in Suwon,<br />

south of Seoul, built with a ‘showcase loo’ that<br />

produces mist to make users feel more secure.


© <strong>2012</strong> HILTON WORLDWIDE<br />

We think the<br />

wor ld of you<br />

Amste rdam<br />

Float through the canals of Amsterdam and settle in with us.<br />

Th ere, as in all of our more than 300 hotels in 23 countries,<br />

we give you the sweetest of welcomes. Our warm chocolate<br />

chip cookie is a symbol of our promise to turn every<br />

little detail of your stay into a delight. And that’s just the<br />

beginning of all we have waiting for you.<br />

Where the little things mean everything. TM<br />

DoubleTree.com<br />

For reservations call: 00800 2222 8733<br />

BULGARIA NETHERLANDS PERU COSTA RICA GREECE INDIA ITALY RUSSIA MALAYSIA<br />

MEXICO CHINA PANAMA PUERTO RICO LUXEMBOURG USA TURKEY UNITED KINGDOM


28 Holland Herald<br />

Go with<br />

Water forged the Dutch capital. Annemarie Hoeve<br />

explores its lesser-known aquatic sights<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY: FULCO SMIT ROETERS


the fl owBoats on<br />

Prinsengracht.<br />

Next year marks<br />

the 400th<br />

anniversary<br />

of Amsterdam’s<br />

canal district<br />

TRAVEL AMSTERDAM<br />

Being on the water<br />

changes everything. Passing boaty types<br />

acknowledge your presence with a nod<br />

indicating that yes, you’re now part of the<br />

clan. Jealous looks descend from<br />

bystanders on arched bridges, and best of<br />

all, you can sneak some decent peeks into<br />

the living rooms of houseboats. But that’s<br />

not what we’re here for now…<br />

“Are you ready to stand up?” says<br />

Morene Dekker.<br />

Th is is a kind prod, meaning that it’s<br />

time to forego all fears of falling into the<br />

Amstel River, grab the paddle and follow.<br />

Morene teaches a new sport that is not,<br />

unfortunately, called Sit Down and<br />

Paddle. It’s called SUP and it’s the S and<br />

U part of the acronym that are proving<br />

diffi cult now.<br />

Standing up, tall and relaxed on her<br />

surfb oard, her strokes are strong and<br />

steady as she makes her way across the<br />

rippled surface. She is the reigning Dutch<br />

champion and seems to be happiest on or<br />

near the water.<br />

“I live along a canal and can step<br />

straight from my bedroom onto my<br />

board and paddle off ,” she says. She does<br />

that three times a week, for stretches of<br />

ten kilometres. She is a keen advocate of<br />

the sport, which is a relatively recent<br />

Holland Herald 29


addition to the city’s waterways.<br />

Once a month, she organises a SUP<br />

expedition through Amsterdam’s inner<br />

circle of canals for all who want to give it<br />

a try. Th is year will be the fi rst time she<br />

does it all through winter.<br />

“Amsterdam is so beautiful from the<br />

water. It’s the best way to see the<br />

highlights. It’s sightseeing and a workout<br />

in one,” she says. You can’t help but<br />

wonder what people would have made of<br />

this back in the 17th century, when the<br />

canals were fi rst built.<br />

Th ese alluring waterways were<br />

originally used to transport goods from<br />

ships in the harbour to merchant<br />

warehouses. Nowadays, the second the<br />

sun appears, locals and their dogs,<br />

children, bikes and barbecues pile into<br />

anything that fl oats, for a spontaneous<br />

aquatic parade.<br />

Or, in cold winters when the canals<br />

freeze up, this UNESCO World Heritage<br />

Site is transformed into an instant urban<br />

ice rink, as everyone takes to their skates.<br />

And there are always a determined<br />

30 Holland Herald<br />

ABOVE<br />

Marina in IJburg<br />

LEFT<br />

Cycling along<br />

Prins<br />

Hendrikkade,<br />

next to the water<br />

by Centraal<br />

Station<br />

few who try to ride their bikes across the<br />

slippery ice.<br />

Amsterdammers live, work and play<br />

on the water. Th at is hardly surprising,<br />

given that it covers 25% of the city. In<br />

fact, with 100 kilometres of canals, plus<br />

the harbour, it is the most water-rich city<br />

in the world.<br />

And where there’s water, there are<br />

boats. Lots and lots of them, in all shapes<br />

and sizes. In addition to some 2,500<br />

houseboats, there are barges solely<br />

intended for parking bicycles, boats fi tted<br />

with swings for kids, there is a fl oating<br />

shelter for stray cats, plus a motley fl otilla<br />

of 8,000 recreational sloops.<br />

Th e humid climate, however, is hard<br />

on boats without the most vigilant of<br />

owners. Towards the end of winter, some<br />

canals are lined with rather sorry<br />

waterlogged vessels in various phases of<br />

slowly sinking.<br />

But Amsterdam native Daan Dijkstra<br />

and partner Marcel van Wees have a<br />

solution. Th ey rescue boats from an<br />

undignifi ed end on the scrap heap. Once<br />

sawn in half, the boats get a new,<br />

sedentary life on land in the form of<br />

outdoor benches.<br />

“Th ese boats are a forgotten<br />

monument of Amsterdam. Th ey sink to<br />

the bottom of the canals and rust away<br />

there. With these boat benches, we put<br />

them in the picture again,” says Daan.<br />

Th e two have a workshop on the north<br />

bank of the city, across the IJ<br />

(pronounced ‘the aii’) waterway, where<br />

something of a cultural and architectural<br />

boom is underway.<br />

Th e Overhoeks and Tolhuistuin site<br />

was previously owned by oil company<br />

Shell. Situated along the waterfront,<br />

facing south, this former industrial area<br />

has become prime real estate.<br />

Th ere is no shortage of things to do for<br />

the new residents and visitors. A largescale<br />

conversion is underway to turn the<br />

old Shell staff canteen into a new cultural<br />

hub, with everything from concert<br />

venues to exhibition spaces, a cafe and<br />

hip hop school.


TRAVEL AMSTERDAM<br />

“Th ese boats are a<br />

forgotten monument<br />

of Amsterdam ”<br />

Daan Dijkstra<br />

and Marcel van<br />

Wees, with one<br />

of their benches<br />

made from an<br />

old boat<br />

Holland Herald 31


Morene Dekker<br />

takes her paddle<br />

board down the<br />

Amstel<br />

32 Holland Herald<br />

“What would<br />

17th-century<br />

Amsterdammers<br />

have made of<br />

stand up paddle<br />

boarding?”


RIGHT<br />

The flea market<br />

at NDSM Wharf<br />

With its renowned collection of<br />

37,000 fi lms, the new EYE Film Institute<br />

nearby has already become a huge<br />

success, enticing masses of fi lm fans<br />

across the water. Designed by architects<br />

Delugan Meissl, all eyes are drawn to this<br />

stunning building defi ning the skyline.<br />

Perched atop the embankment, it’s stark<br />

futuristic angles and white exterior evoke<br />

the sense that a visiting alien spaceship<br />

has come to admire the view.<br />

A sturdy fl eet of blue-and white ferries<br />

shuttles 40,000 people per day across the<br />

water here. Trying to maintain their<br />

course between the criss-crossing ferries,<br />

is a constant stream of cargo ships,<br />

sailboats, canal cruises and enormous<br />

cruise ships.<br />

Th e organised chaos is endlessly<br />

entertaining, as all must share the same<br />

narrow ribbon of water.<br />

This stretch has always seen heavy<br />

traffi c. In the mid-17th century, during<br />

the Dutch Golden Age, the port of<br />

Amsterdam was the most important and<br />

largest shipping centre in the world.<br />

Today it remains a working waterway for<br />

cargo vessels.<br />

Goliath freighters and oil tankers were<br />

still being built at the NDSM Wharf, a<br />

little further along the north bank, until<br />

the late 1970s. Abandoned for decades,<br />

now the old shipyard is once again a hive<br />

of industry, albeit of a diff erent kind.<br />

Some 250 artists have set up their<br />

studios inside an enormous hangar,<br />

making this one of Europe’s biggest<br />

hotbeds of artistic talent. Inside, the<br />

industrial nature of the building is still<br />

intact, complete with giant steel hooks<br />

dangling from long chains and a yellow<br />

crane-operator’s cabin.<br />

Within this setting, multiple studios<br />

have been built alongside and on top of<br />

each other in a series of homemade<br />

streets and levels dubbed ‘Art City’.<br />

Marcia Nolte settled in a year-and-ahalf<br />

ago. “It’s like a neat favela – everyone<br />

has made something diff erent of their<br />

own place. Th ere are artists, architects,<br />

furniture-makers, designers,<br />

photographers – all jumbled together,”<br />

she says. She wouldn’t want to work<br />

anywhere else.<br />

“I love taking the ferry to my studio<br />

every day. In the winter, you get such<br />

gorgeous mornings, when the whole city<br />

disappears in mist. Th e only thing<br />

TRAVEL AMSTERDAM<br />

400 years<br />

Today, Amsterdam’s<br />

17th-century canals are a<br />

top attraction, with three<br />

million people opting for a<br />

canal tour every year.<br />

Listed as a UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site since 2010,<br />

the canals have not<br />

always been appreciated.<br />

When Napoleon’s brother<br />

Louis became king of<br />

Holland in 1806, he<br />

wanted to turn the former<br />

town hall on the Dam into<br />

his private palace.<br />

According to local legend,<br />

the stench of the<br />

neighbouring canal was<br />

such that his wife could<br />

not sleep. Louis had the<br />

canal fi lled up and it has<br />

remained so ever since.<br />

Nowadays, the canals are<br />

very clean, however, with<br />

fresh water fl ushed<br />

through city sluices three<br />

times per week. Next year,<br />

the city will mark the<br />

400th anniversary of the<br />

canal ring with a series of<br />

events that form part of<br />

the Amsterdam 2013<br />

celebrations (of which<br />

KLM is the offi cial carrier).<br />

For more on these, see<br />

Updates on p63.<br />

Holland Herald 33


TOP<br />

Tourists pose<br />

with the<br />

iAmsterdam sign<br />

HERE<br />

Cycling along<br />

NDSM Wharf,<br />

with a former<br />

Russian<br />

submarine in the<br />

background (left<br />

of the cyclist)<br />

34 Holland Herald


you see are the cranes. It looks really<br />

mysterious,” Marcia says.<br />

A graduate of Design Academy<br />

Eindhoven, she appreciates the site’s<br />

industrial past and is inspired by having<br />

all of the diff erent disciplines under the<br />

same roof. Just as the building itself has<br />

been repurposed, in her work she also<br />

places existing objects in a new context.<br />

As a member of creative collective We<br />

Make Carpets, she uses the most<br />

commonplace of items, from paperclips<br />

and plastic cups to plasters and pasta, to<br />

make large patterned fl oor installations.<br />

Following in the wake of such creative<br />

enterprise is a battalion of offb eat<br />

initiatives, from galleries, festivals and an<br />

indoor skate park, to a monthly vintage<br />

market.<br />

Amsterdam fact fi le<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

For grandeur by the water in<br />

the city centre, try Sofi tel the<br />

Grand. The fi ve-star former<br />

convent has a peaceful<br />

courtyard, and overlooks<br />

Oudezijds Voorburgwal.<br />

See sofi tel.com. To sleep in<br />

the old engine room of a<br />

19th-century steamship, try<br />

B&B Volle Maan. There are<br />

excellent water views. See<br />

houseboatbedandbreakfast.<br />

com.<br />

MTV Europe chose this site for its<br />

headquarters and there are plans to turn<br />

the old shipping crane outside into a<br />

boutique hotel with three luxury suites.<br />

Th e view from the crane at a height of<br />

30 to 50 metres must be worth the<br />

vertigo. Th e renovation is due to start<br />

later this year.<br />

At the foot of the weather-beaten<br />

steel survivor, the wind ricochets<br />

between the rusty girders, carrying the<br />

squall of seagulls in search of fi sh. Over<br />

by the jetty, a neat queue of cyclists and<br />

scooters awaits the next ferry. A surge of<br />

water hits the black, 1950s Soviet<br />

submarine moored nearby in a series of<br />

wet slaps.<br />

Hidden along the opposite bank is<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Once a ferry, Pont 13 is now<br />

a fl oating restaurant in the<br />

Western Docklands. Delicious<br />

fare in a unique setting.<br />

See pont13.nl. REM Island<br />

(pictured; remeiland.com) was<br />

a former pirate radio platform.<br />

GETTING AROUND<br />

See the sights from a<br />

surfboard with a Stand Up<br />

and Paddle (SUP) session with<br />

national champion Morene<br />

Dekker. She knows what she’s<br />

doing and it’s easier than it<br />

looks. See mm-sup.com.<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

Innovative architecture and<br />

classic fi lm make EYE Film<br />

Institute on the north bank<br />

of the IJ worthy of a visit.<br />

Stay all day and fi nish off with<br />

The Netherlands<br />

N<br />

Anne Frank<br />

House<br />

Schiphol<br />

Airport<br />

Europe<br />

TRAVEL AMSTERDAM<br />

another member of the blue-and-white<br />

ferry fl eet, but it’s impossible to fi nd<br />

unless you know that it is there. Where<br />

the average ferry ride takes between ten<br />

to 20 minutes at the most, you can stay<br />

on this one for as long as you like, as it’s<br />

not going anywhere. Taken out of action<br />

in the 1990s, the old ferry dating from<br />

1927 is now a popular restaurant called<br />

Pont 13.<br />

Inside, everything has a slight tilt to it,<br />

unrelated to any alcohol consumption.<br />

Th e angle is just enough to make you<br />

aware that you are fl oating. A rugged iron<br />

furnace in the middle smiles a warm<br />

welcome, its mouth aglow with fresh logs.<br />

Th rough the porthole, the harbour<br />

outside is a perfect circle of water and<br />

shimmering lights.<br />

Amsterdam<br />

EYE Film<br />

Institute<br />

Het IJ<br />

Royal Palace<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Amstel<br />

Central<br />

Station<br />

dinner. See eyefi lm.nl.<br />

highlights on Amsterdam’s<br />

Although the offi cial opening north side with local guide<br />

of Tolhuistuin is yet to come, Elly Goossens. From history<br />

it’s worth keeping tabs on to culture to architecture, Elly<br />

events being held at the covers plenty of ground. See<br />

former Shell staff canteen.<br />

See tolhuistuin.nl.<br />

rondhetij.nl.<br />

MORE INFO<br />

LOCAL EXPERT<br />

For more on Amsterdam 2013:<br />

Discover the hidden waterfront klm.com/amsterdam2013<br />

Holland Herald 35<br />

Map: Allan Grotjohann


PHOTOGRAPHY HOME<br />

No place like home<br />

Jeroen Toirkens has been documenting<br />

nomadic lives since 1999. Here, we present a small<br />

selection of his work<br />

36 Holland Herald<br />

Dukha: Mongolia, Khövsgöl Aimag, 2007<br />

A child’s swing. Some 40 nomadic<br />

families moved back to the forested<br />

taiga after the fall of communism.<br />

Khalkh: Mongolia, Gobi desert, 2007<br />

Some 80% of Mongolians are Khalkh.<br />

Many remain nomadic, but more than<br />

half have moved to cities, where they<br />

often live in giant areas of gers (felt<br />

tents).<br />

Sami: Russia, Oblast Murmansk, 2006<br />

The Sami are Europe’s most northern<br />

and only offi cially recognised<br />

indigenous people. They live in Sápmi<br />

(Lapland), northern Scandinavia.


Holland Herald 37


Khalkh: Mongolia,<br />

Töv Aimag, 2007<br />

A woman sets up camp.<br />

Kazakh: Mongolia,<br />

Bayan Olgii Aimag, 2007<br />

Hanging meats. The Kazakh<br />

are a Turkish people who live<br />

in the northern parts of Central<br />

Asia. After the collapse of<br />

the Soviet Union, many<br />

Mongolian Kazakh returned<br />

to Kazakhstan.<br />

(Facing page) Nenets: Russia,<br />

Nenets Autonomous Okrug, 2005<br />

Nenets reindeer shepherds<br />

have followed the migration<br />

routes of the reindeer in<br />

the high north of Russia<br />

for centuries.<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY HOME<br />

Th e photographer<br />

Jeroen Toirkens is a Dutch<br />

photographer. A graduate of<br />

Royal Academy for the Visual Arts<br />

in The Hague, he began the<br />

Nomadslife project, in which he<br />

plans to document the lives of<br />

the last nomadic peoples on the<br />

Northern Hemisphere, in 1999.<br />

For more information, see<br />

nomadslife.com. His book,<br />

Nomad is published by Belgian<br />

publisher Lannoo.<br />

Holland Herald 39


Big windows,<br />

with no curtains<br />

The Dutch<br />

Light colours and bare wood<br />

Elaborate ceiling stuccos<br />

Clever use<br />

of space


Modern Dutch interior style is<br />

playful, chic and calm. Jane Szita<br />

fi nds it was hundreds of years<br />

in the making<br />

“The typical Dutch home?”<br />

Design agent Rini van Beek is sitting in<br />

her light, white, sparsely furnished living<br />

room, and gazing at the view through a<br />

fl oor-to-ceiling expanse of immaculately<br />

polished glass.<br />

“I think the most characteristic<br />

style is more or less minimalistic,” she<br />

says. “Carefully chosen design pieces,<br />

a calm space, with nothing excessive<br />

or unnecessary. It’s all about reducing<br />

everything you need to the minimum,<br />

and limiting not just the number of pieces<br />

of furniture, but also the materials. Using<br />

few materials gives a quiet feeling.”<br />

As Van Beek is a design professional,<br />

it’s not surprising that her own home fi ts<br />

the description perfectly – the type of<br />

simple but stylish Dutch dwelling seen<br />

on blogs like Bloesem and in the pages of<br />

international interiors magazines.<br />

Spend some time in Th e Netherlands,<br />

and you’ll see any number of houses<br />

that match this ideal. Chances are you<br />

won’t even have to step foot inside them,<br />

thanks to the national habit of leaving<br />

the curtains open at night, putting the<br />

illuminated interior of just about every<br />

home on show.<br />

Framed by tall, wide windows, those<br />

clutter-free rooms with snowy walls,<br />

large wooden tables, fl eamarket fi nds and<br />

quirky lamps do show well. Are Dutch<br />

homes designed to be seen this way?<br />

“Th ere is an element of showing<br />

off your taste,” says interior designer<br />

Maurice van Berkel at his light-fi lled<br />

studio – a sleek but sculptural space –<br />

on the Weteringschans in Amsterdam.<br />

“Duch homes are always open to the<br />

world in this way. It’s as if we want to<br />

stay in contact with the street. Th ere’s a<br />

theory that the open curtains are down to<br />

“ Th e most<br />

characteristic<br />

style is more<br />

or less<br />

minimalism”<br />

INTERIORS HOME<br />

Calvinism – wanting the world to see that<br />

you’re not up to anything ungodly – but I<br />

prefer to think that it refl ects our society’s<br />

traditional openness to other cultures.<br />

It’s something you don’t see in other<br />

countries.”<br />

Whatever the cultural reasons for<br />

these large, literal windows onto Dutch<br />

lives, their architectural origins can be<br />

traced back to the 17th century. House<br />

frontages were taxed according to width,<br />

and builders responded by erecting<br />

tall, narrow homes, which needed big<br />

windows at the front, to maximise<br />

daylight and allow goods in and out<br />

without negotiating the steep stairs.<br />

Big windows also reduced the weight<br />

of the brick structures – an important<br />

consideration in a country where<br />

everything was built on wooden piles<br />

driven into the sand.<br />

Th e elegant results of these practical<br />

provisions were the calling card of a<br />

fl edgling nation. Th e Dutch Republic<br />

was busily reinventing itself as a society<br />

run not by church or aristocrats, but by a<br />

prosperous, urban merchant class.<br />

Holland Herald 41


Th e republic lived by trade, and<br />

the new economic order encouraged<br />

individualism and the rise of the nuclear<br />

family. Th e home became simultaneously<br />

a private place and an arena for public<br />

virtues that embodied the values of the<br />

republic: thrift , hard work, strict morality<br />

and democracy – as well as a quiet<br />

showcase for wealth.<br />

It’s a paradox that endures today.<br />

“Dutch people don’t open their homes<br />

readily to strangers,” admits Irene<br />

Hoofs, who set up the Bloesem blog<br />

to celebrate Dutch domestic design.<br />

Having the curtains perpetually open<br />

does not equate to keeping open house.<br />

In his book, Home: A Short History of<br />

an Idea, architect Witold Rybczynski<br />

characterises 17th-century Dutch life<br />

as based on “family, intimacy and a<br />

devotion to the home” – and those three<br />

factors were largely inseparable.<br />

Home was a hideaway and a haven,<br />

and even today, says interior architect<br />

Evelyne Merckx of Merckx and Girod,<br />

home for the average Dutch person<br />

simply stands for ‘safety’.<br />

42 Holland Herald<br />

“ Big windows<br />

maximised<br />

light and<br />

allowed goods<br />

in and out”<br />

It also stood for cleanliness.<br />

Historian Simon Schama, in his book<br />

Th e Embarassment of Riches, suggests<br />

the national ‘cleanliness fetish’ was the<br />

manifestation of the moral purity that the<br />

republic hoped would sustain its trading<br />

empire and independence.<br />

Other commentators have pointed<br />

to the large dairy industry, immensely<br />

productive for the time, which relied on<br />

rigorous hygiene.<br />

“What was invented in the 17th<br />

century,” sums up historian Heidi de<br />

Mare, “was clean running water, warm<br />

but not smoky rooms, working toilets,<br />

suffi cient daylight in every room – things<br />

Light that floods<br />

through big windows<br />

from front to back of<br />

narrow buildings<br />

that over the subsequent centuries<br />

became normal in a home.”<br />

As well as being avid cleaners, Golden<br />

Age householders were determined<br />

consumers. Being the richest nation<br />

in Europe meant that even humble<br />

tradesmen could indulge in the trappings<br />

of modern décor, and whole industries<br />

sprang up to feed the demand. Many of<br />

Amsterdam’s grand 17th-century homes<br />

now open to the public as part of the<br />

Amsterdam Heritage Days.<br />

Blue-and-white Delft pottery<br />

(imitating Chinese porcelein), Flemish<br />

carpets (copying Oriental ones), pots of<br />

tulips and even oil paintings, which were<br />

sold at prices to suit all pockets, found<br />

their way into even modest homes, to the<br />

consternation of foreign visitors.<br />

Having invented modern domestic<br />

comfort, the Dutch carried it with them<br />

to Britain, where William of Orange<br />

became monarch alongside Mary II in<br />

1689, and to America (New York was<br />

originally a Dutch colony).<br />

But as time passed and the republic<br />

declined, Dutch homemakers became


Tin y, well-<br />

used<br />

balconies<br />

imitators themselves. Forgetting the bare<br />

glass windows painted by Vermeer and<br />

others, 19th-century Holland adopted<br />

elaborate curtains, and kept them closed.<br />

It wasn’t until modern times that the<br />

national sensibility reasserted itself.<br />

Th e modern Dutch home was<br />

reinvented by Gerrit Rietveld and his<br />

client Truus Schröder in 1924, when they<br />

unveiled a new home for Schröder and<br />

her children on the outskirts of Utrecht.<br />

Schröder wanted a complete break<br />

from stuff y 19th-century houses, instead<br />

asking for maximum simplicity and<br />

fl exibility – something she later called<br />

‘the luxury of frugality’, a phrase any of<br />

Classic, simple wooden dining<br />

table, read y to bear scuffs and<br />

scratches<br />

Traditional<br />

flourishes<br />

her Golden Age ancestors would have<br />

easily understood.<br />

Rietveld obliged with a simple but<br />

sophisticated interior, in which sliding<br />

doors transform the space in a variety<br />

of ways and windows can open up<br />

completely, seeming to disappear and<br />

leave the residents in the open air.<br />

Today, most of Th e Netherlands’<br />

registered 1,700 interior architects, plus<br />

its interior designers, acknowledge a debt<br />

to the Schröder House.<br />

“It all started with Rietveld,” says<br />

Maurice van Bakel. “He looked at the real<br />

needs of real people. It’s a very human<br />

approach.”<br />

“Rietveld was a furniture maker fi rst<br />

of all, and so his house has a lot of detail,<br />

as well as a great spatial quality,” says<br />

Kees Spanjer, curator of 2013’s World<br />

Interiors Event, which will celebrate<br />

the Dutch contribution to interiors of<br />

every kind. Rietveld’s combination –<br />

an architectural impression of space<br />

together with an attention to fi ne details<br />

– seems to have been chanelled by Dutch<br />

INTERIORS HOME<br />

homemakers, amateur and professional,<br />

ever since.<br />

Early in the 20th century, the<br />

Amsterdam School of architecture,<br />

headed by Michel de Klerk, also<br />

brought creative buildings and fresh,<br />

modern interiors to the city’s working<br />

population. Amsterdam School social<br />

housing developments, celebrated for<br />

their combination of practical utility and<br />

sculptural beauty, extended the idea of<br />

comfortable living to every social class.<br />

Later, architects like Aldo Bakker and<br />

Herman Hertzberger continued the<br />

Amsterdam School’s eff orts to humanise<br />

buildlings inside and out.<br />

In his groundbreaking Central<br />

Beheer offi ce (1972), Hertzberger<br />

incorportated the qualities of home,<br />

encouraging workers to mould their own<br />

space and add their own private objects.<br />

“Th e idea of wellbeing has crossed from<br />

the private home and into the public<br />

domain in Holland,” says Kees Spanjer.<br />

“I think that’s the result of our social<br />

system, and our great awareness of<br />

styling and design, although who knows<br />

where these qualities came from.”<br />

They are qualities that<br />

continue today. Recent high-density<br />

developments in Amsterdam’s Eastern<br />

Islands include the now famous<br />

Scheepstimmermanstraat on Borneo<br />

Island, where tightly packed but highly Leeuw,<br />

de<br />

individual homes recall the varied<br />

harmony of the canal-house rows of the Anna<br />

Golden Age.<br />

Eisma,<br />

On the outside, each tall, skinny,<br />

compact home refl ects a conformity<br />

Hotze<br />

to strict requirements – established to<br />

create a certain uniformity – but each Leeuwen,<br />

one adapts them in a fresh way. Facades Dana<br />

of metal, wood, concrete and glass create<br />

a rhythmic play when the windows<br />

Zeegers,<br />

are illuminated at night, and, looking Hans<br />

through them, of course there’s plenty<br />

Duch domestic comfort still on show. Photos:<br />

Holland Herald 43<br />

Marjon Hoogervorst, all Taverne-Agency


Life on<br />

Mars?<br />

Professor Gerard<br />

’t Hooft in the<br />

botanical gardens<br />

of the University<br />

of Utrecht


Millions of kilometres away,<br />

automated rovers scour Mars for signs of<br />

past life. While this is an amazing feat,<br />

it remains just a small step towards a<br />

potentially bigger triumph.<br />

Ever since that fi rst tantalising moon<br />

walk 43 years ago, we have had our sights<br />

on putting man on Mars. Yet that requires<br />

a giant leap in technology and know-how.<br />

Or does it?<br />

Some believe that putting someone<br />

on Mars is possible as early as 2023;<br />

people like Gerard ’t Hooft , professor in<br />

theoretical physics at Utrecht University.<br />

“In principle, it’s technologically<br />

possible,” says ’t Hooft . “We know that we<br />

can get people there and that we can land.”<br />

Th ere is one hitch. Such a mission<br />

would involve a one-way ticket only. Aft er<br />

landing, there would be no way back.<br />

For those fi rst pioneers on Mars, the Red<br />

Planet would become their permanent<br />

home. Th ey would not only have to build<br />

living quarters, but a whole new life.<br />

“When people went to the moon, they<br />

could leave again relatively easily. Mars<br />

is a diff erent story. Landing there isn’t<br />

much harder, but lift ing off is. Mars has a<br />

PROFILE HOME<br />

Nobel-Prize-winning Dutch scientist<br />

Gerard ’t Hooft thinks people could<br />

be living on Mars in ten years’ time.<br />

Annemarie Hoeve meets him<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY: FULCO SMIT ROETERS<br />

higher level of gravity than the moon so<br />

you need large amounts of fuel, as well as a<br />

launching platform. Th at makes any return<br />

mission enormously costly and timeconsuming,”<br />

he says.<br />

Daring to skip the last leg – the journey<br />

home – is what can suddenly bring an<br />

otherwise distant dream of a manned<br />

mission to Mars so much closer. But<br />

realistically, how can we even think of<br />

successfully living on Mars in 11 years,<br />

when we’re still grappling with the basic<br />

requirements of human survival in space?<br />

What about food, fuel and housing,<br />

“Such a mission would be a oneway<br />

ticket. Aft er landing,<br />

there would be no way back”<br />

Holland Herald 45<br />

Photo: Mars One


TOP<br />

A rendering of what a Mars<br />

One colony might look like<br />

ABOVE AND RIGHT<br />

The professor’s office<br />

Photo: Mars One


not to mention water and oxygen?<br />

Th ese are not minor details that need<br />

refi ning, they are colossal hurdles.<br />

But there are solutions, as ’t Hooft<br />

explains. Solar panels could generate<br />

energy, water can be gleaned from<br />

Martian permafrost and CO 2 in the<br />

atmosphere used as a source of oxygen.<br />

Plants grown in greenhouses would<br />

provide food and the astronauts would<br />

build their own prefab modular capsules.<br />

“While the fi rst colonists would have to be<br />

vegetarian, cultivating chicken and fi sh could<br />

be done at a later stage,” he adds.<br />

But then there’s the problem<br />

of radiation. In his Utrecht offi ce,<br />

surrounded by bookshelves packed with<br />

titles such as Gravitation and Quantum<br />

Fields, he talks of periodic solar storms.<br />

Th is sounds somewhat less comfortable<br />

than the ‘chicken or fi sh’ dilemma.<br />

“Th e amount of radiation astronauts<br />

will receive during the trip there and on<br />

Mars itself is not free of danger. Yet it<br />

looks like the radiation can be reduced to<br />

acceptable levels,” he says.<br />

One way to limit radiation on the<br />

planet would be for astronauts to bury<br />

their new abodes in 1.5 metres of sand<br />

as insulation. It would mean they would<br />

have to live in the dark, with only artifi cial<br />

light, but when the alternative is radiation<br />

exposure, natural light is a luxury easily<br />

done without.<br />

But perhaps the biggest hurdle won’t<br />

even come from space. It may arise from<br />

Earthly objections to the ethics of a one-way<br />

trip. “Some are comparing the mission to<br />

a life sentence. Th ere could be serious legal<br />

problems. What if people say that they are<br />

fi ne about staying on Mars permanently, but<br />

change their mind when they get there?” ’t<br />

Hooft says. Th at’s an astronomical waiver<br />

that will need signing.<br />

So why not wait until we have the<br />

technology and means to be able to<br />

bring people back? “Scientists don’t need<br />

“Th ere could<br />

easily be<br />

tremendous<br />

complications”<br />

humans on Mars. We can do our science<br />

better and more cheaply with just rovers,”<br />

’t Hooft says. So why go? “To see if it’s<br />

really possible to start a human colony in<br />

space and expand it. It’s not rational. Mars<br />

has always been there, luring us as a place<br />

where people want to go and we want to<br />

see things happen now,” he says.<br />

It was a childhood fantasy of<br />

colonising space that fi rst drew the<br />

professor to a career in science. “When I<br />

was a kid I dreamed of being an astronaut.<br />

I wanted to invent new spaceships to get<br />

there. I realised that I needed to learn<br />

physics to do that. Th en I found out that<br />

I needed maths to understand physics. I<br />

ended up doing theoretical physics and<br />

investigating sub-nuclear particles.”<br />

It didn’t result in a spaceship but<br />

it did earn him a Nobel Prize in 1999<br />

for clarifying the quantum structure<br />

of electroweak interactions between<br />

particles. Th e Nobel Prize is the apex of a<br />

collection of prestigious accolades for his<br />

groundbreaking work.<br />

Nevertheless, his passion for space<br />

remains: “I still love dreaming of the idea<br />

of humans escaping Earth to fi nd a place<br />

to live in space,” he says. For ’t Hooft ,<br />

a manned mission to Mars is just the<br />

beginning: “Once we have human colonies<br />

in space, there’s no limit; we can reach<br />

other stars, asteroids or planets. It will take<br />

millions of years, but we can start now.”<br />

Th is is why he has become an enthusiastic<br />

ambassador for Mars One. Th e Dutch<br />

private company is the driving force behind<br />

PROFILE HOME<br />

plans for a 2023 manned Mars mission.<br />

In addition to the company’s radical<br />

one-way approach, another bold move is<br />

their proposed method of funding. To raise<br />

the required $6 billion, Mars One aims<br />

to turn the whole mission into a gigantic<br />

media event. Everything will be televised,<br />

including the selection of the astronauts.<br />

Th ink of TV shows Big Brother or Th e<br />

Voice (also Dutch inventions) mixed with<br />

the fi rst moon landing. Considering that<br />

the 1969 event was watched by a global<br />

audience of 500 million, the reality TV<br />

approach to funding a Mars mission<br />

might not be as crazy as it fi rst seems.<br />

Although ’t Hooft is excited about<br />

Mars One, he also retains a healthy<br />

scepticism: “My fi rst reaction was that<br />

they’re underestimating the cost and<br />

timescale by a factor of ten. It may all be<br />

possible if there are no catches, but there<br />

could easily be tremendous complications<br />

in all terrains: technological, fi nancial, or<br />

political.”<br />

Indeed, the 2023 plan sounds more like<br />

science fi ction than reality. But, as ’t Hooft<br />

explains: “Perhaps this project is more<br />

about something to aim for. If you assume<br />

that it’s unrealistic from the beginning,<br />

you’ll get nowhere.”<br />

So, will the Nobel laureate himself<br />

be signing up for the upcoming Martian<br />

adventure? “I’m too old, and I couldn’t<br />

leave my family, but there will always be<br />

people who want to try a new life in a new<br />

place,” he says.<br />

Besides, there is still plenty of new<br />

terrain for the professor to investigate on<br />

our home planet: “Th e universe of subatomic<br />

particles is very big. You can make<br />

many interesting journeys there.”<br />

Meanwhile, a number of potential<br />

candidates have already applied to Mars<br />

One, so it looks like we really might be at<br />

the dawn of a new space race. Whether it<br />

becomes a sprint or a marathon remains<br />

to be seen. v v<br />

Holland Herald 47


TRAVEL ZIMBABWE<br />

Spectacular Victoria<br />

Falls in North<br />

Matabeleland,<br />

Zimbabwe<br />

Miles of<br />

Overland through Zimbabwe,<br />

Mark Eveleigh fi nds that the<br />

country is learning how to<br />

smile again


smiles<br />

TRAVEL ZIMBABWE<br />

With its covered pavements and timberfronted<br />

stores, Harare feels like a sun-blessed and laid-back<br />

European country town. Th e Zimbabwean capital is a city of<br />

about two million, yet you are continually surprised that people<br />

seem to smile in passing, as if they all know each other.<br />

It’s rare to fi nd a place where strangers bid each other “good<br />

morning” as they pass. Aft er a particularly troubled recent past,<br />

many are surprised to fi nd that the Zimbabwean smile and<br />

friendly attitude is still alive and well.<br />

Th e optimistically named African Unity Square is the heart<br />

of Harare, but it has the atmosphere of a sleepy rural<br />

marketplace. Th e pavement along one edge of the square is<br />

spattered with all the pastel hues of a Monet masterpiece from<br />

the displays of fl ower vendors. Another edge is racked like a<br />

museum exhibit with endless lines of soapstone sculptures.<br />

Little statues of African beauties contorted into pretzel-esque<br />

yoga poses stand next to elegant carvings of elephants, giraff es<br />

and rhinos.<br />

Holland Herald 49


On the rooftop garden of Meikles Hotel, the<br />

breakfast crowd is gathering. Plates are heaped with a mindboggling<br />

selection of local fruits shuttled in from all corners of<br />

what was traditionally Africa’s most productive country. Th e<br />

smell of Zimbabwean coff ee (some of Africa’s best) and hot,<br />

home-baked bread waft s through a hubbub of cheery discussion<br />

in English, Shona, Ndebele, Hindi, Afrikaans…<br />

“I’m very happy to say that everything on the menu is<br />

available today,” says the white-starched waiter as he hands over<br />

the menu. To somebody unacquainted with the recent<br />

economic history of Zimbabwe, the phrase is unusual, but the<br />

waiter seems genuinely proud that so many of the staples upon<br />

which his country built its reputation are available again.<br />

He’s too young to remember the days of milk and honey<br />

50 Holland Herald<br />

ABOVE<br />

Canoeing down Mana Pools,<br />

Zambezi River. Canoe safaris bring<br />

you closer to wildlife than many<br />

of their land-based equivalents<br />

LEFT<br />

Kopjes, often homes to<br />

snakes, baboons or leopards,<br />

near Bulawayo<br />

that followed independence, when Zimbabwe was still known<br />

as ‘the breadbasket of Africa’. Th e waiter grew up through years<br />

when the agricultural and transport infrastructure had<br />

collapsed to the point where Harare’s supermarkets were almost<br />

completely empty. He has been a multi-millionaire for most of<br />

his working life, since the once-healthy Zimbabwean dollar fell<br />

to several trillion to its US equivalent.<br />

But since the US dollar was adopted as the national<br />

currency, many things are changing for the better. Th e<br />

traditional welcome is perhaps more heartfelt now than ever.<br />

Don’t be surprised when an old man, selling maps on the street,<br />

grasps your hand to look you straight in the eye and say,<br />

“Welcome to Zimbabwe.”<br />

In many countries, this would be a stock tourism phrase. In


BELOW<br />

A hippo wallows<br />

in Mana Pools,<br />

Zambezi River<br />

“Th is is a place where strangers<br />

bid each other “good morning”<br />

as they pass”<br />

some, it’s said so oft en that it’s leached of all meaning. In<br />

Zimbabwe, however, people are genuinely happy to see every<br />

small sign of an overdue change for the better. Th ey appreciate<br />

every visible sign that things are fi nally on the mend.<br />

That old man’s maps – with brightly shaded provinces<br />

designed to revive drowsing school-kids – show a wonderfully<br />

wild and diverse country. Zimbabwe is ten times the size of Th e<br />

Netherlands, but with substantially fewer people.<br />

Th e central highlands around Harare have always been the<br />

most densely populated part of the country. Th ese are rich<br />

farmlands where fruit, vegetables and fl owers thrived. But drive<br />

south and you reach a hauntingly beautiful African wilderness<br />

that is liberally crowned with great soaring boulders. Th ese<br />

TRAVEL ZIMBABWE<br />

Go wild<br />

At nearly 15,000sqkm,<br />

Hwange National Park<br />

(zimparks.org) is<br />

Zimbabwe’s largest and<br />

worth a detour from<br />

Victoria Falls or Bulawayo.<br />

It is home to over 400 bird<br />

species and more than 100<br />

types of mammals. Large<br />

prides of lions and one of<br />

the healthiest populations<br />

of endangered African wild<br />

dogs hunt on the savannah<br />

where great herds of<br />

antelope, zebra and<br />

elephant graze.<br />

Mana Pools National Park<br />

(wildzambezi.com) is<br />

famous for the<br />

concentrations of wildlife<br />

that gather in the<br />

woodlands along the<br />

Zambezi River during the<br />

dry season. Elephant, lion,<br />

wild dog and leopard are<br />

frequently seen, along with<br />

large herds of buffalo,<br />

eland and smaller antelope.<br />

High-quality safari<br />

experiences are on offer<br />

here, with some of Africa’s<br />

top professional guides.<br />

hillocks, known as kopjes, could be Zimbabwean icons. Th ey’re<br />

one of the most enchanting geological formations in Africa and<br />

change colour dramatically with the setting sun.<br />

In the cool hours of the morning, however, they are like a<br />

siren song that tempts you to stop and explore. Keep in mind,<br />

though, that they’re the favoured habitat of snakes, rock hyrax<br />

(they look like 5kg guinea pigs) and baboons – and of the<br />

leopards that prey on them.<br />

Th is wild part of southern Zimbabwe once held a capital<br />

city that ruled one of Africa’s greatest empires. When Rhodesia<br />

won its hard-earned independence, it adopted a new name from<br />

the ruins of the greatest medieval city in sub-Saharan Africa.<br />

Th e word Zimbabwe literally means ‘great stone houses’ in the<br />

local Shona language.<br />

Holland Herald 51


Th ere are very few stone ruins anywhere in southern Africa,<br />

and the eight-metre fortress at Great Zimbabwe rank among the<br />

most impressive historical gems on the continent.<br />

It’s easy to appreciate the power that this place held for<br />

almost a millennium and Zimbabweans of all races are quick to<br />

show the patriotic pride that their national monument inspires.<br />

“We’ve had so much trouble running this country,” a guide<br />

says as he leads visitors to the witch doctor’s platform above the<br />

royal compound. “700 years ago our forefathers successfully<br />

governed an empire that stretched from Mozambique all the<br />

way to Botswana and down to South Africa.”<br />

On 1 June 1894, Dr Leander Starr Jameson stood in front of<br />

a small crowd outside Bulawayo’s Maxim Hotel, in southwest<br />

Zimbabwe, and declared the town open. “I don’t think we want<br />

too much talk about it,” he said. “Th ere’s plenty of whisky<br />

inside, so come on in.”<br />

It was possibly the most humane political speech in the<br />

history of the country, and a characteristically laid-back way to<br />

launch what would become Zimbabwe’s second city.<br />

Bulawayo is one of those poetic names – like Kuala Lumpur<br />

or Timbuktu – that sound as if they have been invented by<br />

writers like Kipling or Rider Haggard.<br />

52 Holland Herald<br />

ABOVE<br />

Writer Mark<br />

Eveleigh meets<br />

the local<br />

wildlife<br />

RIGHT<br />

Matobo<br />

National Park, a<br />

UNESCO World<br />

Heritage site<br />

since 2003<br />

And Bulawayo seems to fi t any romantically preconceived<br />

images. With charming colonial architecture and wide avenues,<br />

it is reminiscent of the well-equipped high-veld retreat that its<br />

founders wanted. Main Street probably qualifi es as one of the<br />

widest urban roads in the world; it was designed to allow a sixspan<br />

oxen cart to make a U-turn, and makes New York’s<br />

Broadway and London’s Oxford Street look like alleyways.<br />

Just south of Bulawayo is another hypnotic region of kopjes.<br />

Matobo National Park was named aft er a Ndebele phrase that<br />

means ‘bald heads’, and the kopjes do at times resemble groups<br />

of old men, heads bowed, together in deep discussion.<br />

Dating back two billion years, this region with 3,000 rock<br />

art paintings, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Th e most<br />

widely visited spot is World’s View. Cecil Rhodes, who knew<br />

southern Africa about as well as any man of his time, called it<br />

the most beautiful place in the world and was buried here.<br />

Sitting on the smooth, sun-warmed boulders, watching a<br />

scarlet sun set into the dust of the Kalahari, there are few who<br />

would say that he was exaggerating.<br />

Perhaps the most evocative way to move onward from<br />

Bulawayo is with the old Victoria Falls Express.<br />

Th is laid-back old locomotive is anything but an ‘express’,


ut take time to relax with a gin and tonic in the evocative old<br />

art-deco dining carriage and you soon begin to feel that the<br />

delays are actually a benefi t. Th ere are many who say that the<br />

14-hour overnight journey is not quite long enough.<br />

So enjoy the rest. You’ll need it, because your last<br />

Zimbabwean destination is Victoria Falls, the country’s number<br />

one tourist draw and a Wonder of the World.<br />

Th e falls themselves were traditionally known as Mosi-oa-<br />

Tunya – the smoke that thunders – and this Zambezi River<br />

playground is now also (in)famous as one of the world capitals<br />

of extreme sports.<br />

You might not feel the urge to throw yourself off the<br />

Zambezi Bridge into 111 metres of ‘Big African Air’ with just an<br />

elastic rope around your ankles, or to take a leap of faith on the<br />

so-called Death Swing that sends you catapulting across the<br />

gorge towards neighbouring Zambia. But aft er a short stay, Vic<br />

Falls has a way of urging you towards ‘the edge’. Extreme sports<br />

afi cionados claim that it has a way of getting into the blood –<br />

once tempted you might never get enough.<br />

A roadtrip through Zimbabwe has the same eff ect on many<br />

people. Take the trip once and you will fi nd that this beautiful<br />

and hospitable country has a way of calling you back over and<br />

over again.<br />

Zimbabwe fact fi le<br />

N<br />

Victori<br />

Victoria Falls<br />

Hwange<br />

National Park<br />

GETTING THERE<br />

KLM operates three nonstop<br />

weekly fl ights to Harare<br />

International Airport from<br />

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.<br />

WHEN TO GO<br />

Dry season (May-October) is<br />

the best time to be on safari in<br />

Zimbabwe.<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

Harare: Meikles Hotel is Harare’s<br />

most famous and historical<br />

hotel (meikles.com; +263 4<br />

251705/707721).<br />

TRAVEL ZIMBABWE<br />

Zimbabwe<br />

Bulawayo<br />

Matobo<br />

National Park<br />

Harare<br />

Harare<br />

International<br />

Airport<br />

Africa<br />

Matobo Hills: Camp Amalinda<br />

has nine suites all individually<br />

embraced by the granite<br />

rocks of Matobo. Relax by the<br />

infi nity pool and spa or go<br />

rhino tracking and explore the<br />

caves and bushman paintings<br />

(campamalinda.com; +263<br />

964868/9).<br />

Victoria Falls: Victoria Falls<br />

Safari Lodge is a luxury lodge<br />

on a high plateau overlooking<br />

a waterhole that attracts vast<br />

quantities of wildlife (victoriafalls-safari-lodge.com;<br />

+27<br />

216859324).<br />

Holland Herald 53<br />

Zimbabwe<br />

Map: Allan Grotjohann. Photos: Emilie Chaix/Hollandse Hoogte, Axiom Photographi/Masterfi le, IQ Images,<br />

David Fettes/Image Source/Corbis, Christopher Scott/Getty Images, Mark Eveleigh, Masterfi le<br />

The


The waiting<br />

Students stand<br />

ready to serve<br />

RIGHT<br />

Kasteel Oost


game<br />

In the south of The Netherlands, a school for butlers<br />

teaches students how to serve the world’s fi lthy rich.<br />

Mark Smith brushes up on his home comforts<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY: RENE VAN DER HULST<br />

My silver tray loaded with<br />

champagne fl utes, I’m striding across<br />

the creaking attic of an ancient castle,<br />

struggling to remain upright as a man in a<br />

suit throws giant yellow tennis balls at my<br />

head while yelling “Faster! Faster!”<br />

I last about fi ve seconds before I<br />

lose my balance, sending four glasses<br />

smashing disastrously to the ground. My<br />

cheeks redden. I have failed.<br />

Th is task isn’t part of some wacky<br />

reality TV show. It’s one of the expertly<br />

devised drills at the International Butler<br />

Academy, designed to put students<br />

through their paces and teach them how<br />

to deal with the situations they might fi nd<br />

during a day’s service.<br />

“Th is exercise simulates what it might<br />

be like to serve drinks at a party where the<br />

guests are a little, well, excitable,” explains<br />

BUTLERS HOME<br />

Senior House Management Instructor<br />

Frank Fortgens (the ball thrower). By<br />

which I think he means ‘drunk’.<br />

With its lush, leafy grounds, sweeping<br />

gravel driveway and slate-fl oored<br />

pantries, Kasteel Oost, home of the<br />

International Butler Academy, looks<br />

and feels frightfully British. Th e pupils<br />

dress in coat tails and gloves, they carry<br />

gleaming pocket watches and polished<br />

briefcases, address each other formally<br />

and have spent hours learning how to eat<br />

garden peas using only the back of their<br />

fork. Evenings are spent in the drawing<br />

room, learning how to speak eloquently<br />

about random topics (“No one wants an<br />

uninformed butler,” confi des one trainee).<br />

But the school isn’t in the Home<br />

Counties of England or the Highlands<br />

of Scotland; it’s 20 minutes outside<br />

Maastricht, in the Dutch town of<br />

Valkenburg.<br />

His immaculate students may<br />

look as if they’re auditioning for a role<br />

in the next series of Downton Abbey,<br />

but International Butler Academy<br />

chairman, Robert Wennekes, maintains<br />

that butlering is a thoroughly modern<br />

career now that globalisation has led to a<br />

deepening gulf between the haves and the<br />

have-yachts.<br />

“Never in history have there<br />

Holland Herald 55


een so many very rich people on the<br />

planet, and when you’re very rich, there’s<br />

nothing nicer than having someone<br />

manage your property portfolio and the<br />

smooth running of other assets,” says the<br />

straight-talking Dutchman.<br />

Wennekes is a former butler himself<br />

(“I worked for an American billionaire<br />

for six years”), and set up the school in<br />

1999 with money invested by his former<br />

employer. He works alongside his wife,<br />

from a trader-style bank of computer<br />

monitors in an oval offi ce overlooking<br />

extensive gardens.<br />

Attended to at all hours by a rotating<br />

roster of personal butlers, Mr and Mrs<br />

Wennekes exude a sense of entitlement –<br />

they are, eff ectively lord and lady of this<br />

castle – which may be an elaborate act<br />

designed to keep the students on their<br />

well shod toes.<br />

Each of the Wennekes has their own<br />

personal lavatory on the fi rst fl oor of the<br />

castle and, when I am taken on a tour of<br />

the building by trainee butler Steven Gray<br />

– a likeable former fi tness instructor with<br />

the British Army – he is concerned to note<br />

that Mr Wennekes’ toilet roll has not been<br />

folded into a point.<br />

“You learn to notice the tiniest<br />

details about a scenario,” says Gray. “A<br />

smudge on a vase, the distance between a<br />

tablecloth and the fl oor. I wonder whether<br />

I’ll ever take pleasure in eating out again,”<br />

he jokes. International Butler Academy’s<br />

current intake of 16 students has each<br />

56 Holland Herald<br />

Students<br />

polishing the<br />

silver behind the<br />

scenes<br />

LEFT<br />

Some gentle<br />

motivation<br />

paid in the region of €14,000 to be<br />

schooled in the rigours of a profession that<br />

requires them to be discreet, all-seeing<br />

and unfl appable (hence the giant tennis<br />

balls). Th ere are ten men and six women;<br />

the youngest is 18 and one student has just<br />

celebrated his 60th birthday.<br />

Wennekes insists that there’s no<br />

typical candidate in terms of background<br />

or professional training, “but what they all<br />

share is a service-orientated personality<br />

and the ability to put the needs of<br />

someone else before themselves. Th at’s<br />

increasingly rare in today’s society, where<br />

people are increasingly focussed on their<br />

own gratifi cation.”<br />

Th ey hail from countries as diverse<br />

as Turkey and China and, according to<br />

Wennekes, the really good ones stand to<br />

make anything up to €100,000 per year<br />

working for the super-rich.<br />

Once in place, they will facilitate<br />

– and share in – the lavish lifestyles


of Russian oligarchs, globe-trotting<br />

investment bankers, even rap megastars.<br />

Th ey’re as likely to be preparing fi nancial<br />

budgets on a spreadsheet as ironing<br />

newspapers, and the training takes in all<br />

possible facets of estate management, both<br />

old-school and new-fangled.<br />

Wennekes and his team are constantly<br />

assessing the pupils with a view to<br />

recommending the best to prospective<br />

employers. “I don’t make money from<br />

the school itself,” says Wennekes, “it’s the<br />

ABOVE<br />

Serving<br />

Champagne<br />

under fire<br />

LEFT AND HERE<br />

Laying tables<br />

for a formal<br />

dinner<br />

“ A man in a suit throws giant<br />

yellow tennis balls at my head<br />

while yelling ‘Faster! Faster!’”<br />

recruitment arm that pays. We recently<br />

placed a butler on a super yacht, heading<br />

up a team of 80 staff ,” he continues.<br />

Hardly a life of drudgery.<br />

Trainee butler Ferry Jansen, 45, was a<br />

marketing director for a huge Dutch bank<br />

before redundancy led him to re-evaluate<br />

his career. “My fi rst thought was to work<br />

in the hospitality business, but the salaries<br />

were so low,” he says.<br />

“I think people assume that you must<br />

BUTLERS HOME<br />

be very humble to want to be a butler,<br />

but it’s not that at all. I take pleasure in<br />

that feeling of satisfaction when everyone<br />

comes together to do a really excellent<br />

job,” he says.<br />

Th ere seems to be a real sense of<br />

camaraderie among the trainees, who<br />

take it in turns to be head butler and<br />

assistant head butler, apparently without<br />

the power struggles that the likes of<br />

Agatha Christie might lead us to expect.<br />

An idea that crops up repeatedly is<br />

‘excellence’ – they just want things to run<br />

really well, down to the smallest detail.<br />

Most of the butlers, young and<br />

mature, seem to relish the thought that<br />

their new job might take them somewhere<br />

new and unexpected, but 23-year-old<br />

Rainbow Wu, from the Chinese gambling<br />

and trade hub of Macau, foresees plenty of<br />

work on her own doorstep.<br />

“Th e new rich in China like the idea<br />

of having a European-trained butler,<br />

because they are learning the customs<br />

that come with a certain level of society –<br />

which knife to use, that kind of thing. In a<br />

funny way, as a butler, it can be like you’re<br />

educating your employer.”<br />

The academy is hosting a corporate<br />

function tonight, so back in the dining<br />

room, the students have lined up (in<br />

descending height order) to be briefed<br />

by Fortgens on the event’s exacting<br />

requirements.<br />

Th ere follows a full-scale dressrehearsal,<br />

where a fl otilla of butlers fi les in<br />

to the room, silver dinnerware gleaming,<br />

before revealing imaginary delicacies in<br />

perfect timing.<br />

At one point, Fortgens refers to<br />

“the ballet of service” and, from this<br />

meticulous and graceful display, it’s not<br />

hard to understand the analogy. Not long<br />

now till curtain-up.<br />

Holland Herald 57


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Photo: courtesy of Salk Institute for Biological Studies<br />

THE SALK INSTITUTE IN LA JOLLA, CALIFORNIA, DESIGNED BY THE FIRM OF LOUIS KAHN<br />

EVENTS<br />

WINTERPARADE AROUND<br />

THE TABLE<br />

14 December-5 January 2013<br />

The table is the stage for a<br />

unique evening of theatre,<br />

music and dance – while you<br />

enjoy dinner.<br />

Various locations in The<br />

Netherlands; winterparade.nl<br />

BOLSHOI BALLET 16 December<br />

The world-famous Russian<br />

ballet company’s performance<br />

of The Nutcracker is beamed<br />

live into 11 cinemas across<br />

The Netherlands.<br />

pathe.nl<br />

THE LIVING SEA<br />

17 December-9 February 2013<br />

This 1995 Oscar-nominated<br />

IMAX documentary by Greg<br />

MacGillivray – a survey of the<br />

THE LIVING SEA (1995)<br />

Photo: Ardito<br />

world’s oceans – is narrated by<br />

Meryl Streep and features<br />

music by Sting.<br />

Omniversum, President<br />

Kennedylaan 5, The Hague; 0900<br />

6664837 (NL only); omniversum.nl<br />

JEFF WAYNE’S THE WAR OF<br />

THE WORLDS 19 December<br />

Jeff Wayne’s revived musical<br />

version of HG Well’s sci-fi novel<br />

The War of the Worlds, starring<br />

Liam Neeson (in 3D<br />

holography), Kaiser Chiefs<br />

frontman Ricky Wilson and<br />

Wicked’s Kerry Ellis.<br />

Ahoy, Ahoyweg 10, Rotterdam;<br />

0900 3001250 (NL only); ahoy.nl<br />

ANDRÉ RIEU 22 December<br />

The highly-entertaining ‘King<br />

of Waltz’ with his awardwinning<br />

60-piece Johann<br />

Strauss Orchestra.<br />

Ahoy, Ahoyweg 10, Rotterdam;<br />

0900 9000500 (NL only);<br />

andrerieu.com<br />

CHRISTMAS GALA<br />

26-29 December<br />

Both Introdans and the<br />

Introdans Ensemble for Youth<br />

stage works from their<br />

impressive repertoire in<br />

Arnhem and Apeldoorn.<br />

introdans.nl<br />

INTERNATIONAL CHAMBER<br />

MUSIC FESTIVAL<br />

26-30 December<br />

An absolutely charming event<br />

held at various beautiful and<br />

historic locations in Utrecht.<br />

kamermuziekfestival.nl<br />

THE PEKING ACROBATS<br />

Until 5 January 2013<br />

Extraordinary acrobatics rooted<br />

in Chinese folk-art traditions.<br />

Various locations in<br />

The Netherlands;<br />

impactentertainment.nl<br />

AMAZING FEATS OF BALANCE<br />

Photo: Niels Goedee<br />

HANS KLOK: THE HOUDINI<br />

EXPERIENCE<br />

Until 3 February 2013<br />

The world-famous Dutch<br />

illusionist brings his Houdini<br />

tribute show to his homeland.<br />

Various locations in The<br />

Netherlands; stardustcircus.com<br />

HOLLAND UPDATE<br />

Building blocks<br />

Drawings, sketches, photographs,<br />

watercolours, fi lm material and scale<br />

models provide a fascinating glimpse<br />

into the world of Louis Kahn (1901-<br />

1974), regarded as one of the greatest<br />

and most infl uential architects of the<br />

20th century.<br />

LOUIS KAHN: THE POWER OF<br />

ARCHITECTURE; Until 6 January 2013;<br />

NAi, Museumpark 25, Rotterdam;<br />

+31 10 4401200; nai.nl<br />

EXHIBITIONS<br />

CORNELIS VAN HAARLEM<br />

Until 20 January 2013<br />

An exhibition devoted to the<br />

17th-century ‘Dutch<br />

Michelangelo’.<br />

Frans Hals Museum, Groot<br />

Heiligland 62, Haarlem;<br />

+31 23 5115775; franshalsmuseum.nl<br />

THE ROAD TO VAN EYCK<br />

Until 10 February 2013<br />

Extremely fragile and valuable<br />

works by Jan van Eyck – one of<br />

Europe’s most brilliant painters<br />

and the ‘father of oil painting’ –<br />

are exhibited alongside works<br />

by his contemporaries.<br />

Boijmans van Beuningen,<br />

Museumpark 18-20, Rotterdam;<br />

+31 10 4419400; boijmans.nl<br />

GIGS<br />

Seal 6 Dec Vredenburg (Utrecht)<br />

The Raveonettes 9 Dec<br />

Tivoli (Utrecht)<br />

John Mayall 12 Dec Mezz<br />

(Breda)<br />

John Mayall 14 Dec ECI<br />

Cultuurfabriek (Roermond)<br />

The Kyteman Orchestra<br />

21 Dec Oosterpoort (Groningen)<br />

Vive la Fête 23 Dec Effenaar<br />

(Eindhoven)<br />

Info and tickets: livenation.nl<br />

Holland Herald 61


ands<br />

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you could<br />

possibly desire<br />

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in Amsterdam. This luxury department store<br />

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A FLEET OF EDAM SHIPS, BY JAN MOLENAAR, COURTESY OF THE EDAM MUSEUM<br />

EVENTS<br />

BRILLIANT CORNERS<br />

3 December<br />

Israeli choreographer Emanuel<br />

Gat’s work for ten dancers,<br />

inspired by Thelonious Monk’s<br />

1957 jazz album Brilliant Corners.<br />

Stadsschouwburg, Leidseplein 26;<br />

+31 20 6242311; ssba.nl<br />

BRILLIANTLY INSPIRED<br />

Photo: Emanuel Gat Dance, Brilliant Corners<br />

CINDERELLA<br />

13 December-1 January 2013<br />

English choreographer<br />

Christopher Wheeldon’s<br />

enchanting interpretation of<br />

this classic fairy tale<br />

beautifully staged by Het<br />

Nationale Ballet.<br />

Het Muziektheater,<br />

Waterlooplein 22; +31 20 6255455;<br />

het-muziektheater.nl<br />

WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS<br />

21 December-6 January 2013<br />

A traditional Christmas event, VINCENT<br />

GIGS<br />

including live animal acts, at Until 25 April 2013<br />

Marilyn Manson &<br />

the historic theatre Carré. Some 75 paintings, selected Rob Zombie 3 Dec Heineken<br />

Carré, Amstel 115-125;<br />

letters, objects and works on Music Hall<br />

0900 2525255 (NL only);<br />

papers by Vincent van Gogh. Deep Purple 4 Dec Heineken<br />

theatercarre.nl<br />

Hermitage, Amstel 51;<br />

Music Hall<br />

+31 20 5307488; hermitage.nl Martha Wainwright<br />

TANGOMAGIA<br />

26-30 December<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

9 Dec Paradiso<br />

The Cat Empire 12 Dec Paradiso<br />

All manner of events<br />

BAUT<br />

John Mayall 12 & 13 Dec<br />

celebrate the Argentine tango ‘Temporary’ is the theme of Melkweg<br />

during this annual festival. this restaurant, which closes Muse 17 Dec Ziggo Dome<br />

Various locations; +31 20 6751440;<br />

tangomagia.com<br />

on 31 December 2014. Baut<br />

serves exquisitely presented, WEBSITES<br />

EXHIBITIONS<br />

delicious food in a raw, arty,<br />

industrial setting. Diners are<br />

holland.com<br />

iamsterdam.com<br />

DIANE ARBUS<br />

invited to choose two or specialbite.com<br />

Until 13 January 2013<br />

three dishes from a particular eat-amsterdam.com<br />

An intriguing retrospective of world cuisine, for example dutchnews.nl<br />

the legendary American Dutch, Italian or Asian.<br />

hollandtrade.com<br />

photographer Diane Arbus. Wibautstraat 125; +31 20 4659260; lastminuteticketshop.nl<br />

bautamsterdam.nl<br />

museumtickets.nl<br />

Foam, Keizersgracht 609;<br />

+31 20 5516500; foam.nl<br />

WOMAN WITH A VEIL ON<br />

FIFTH AVENUE, NYC (1968)<br />

Copyright: The Estate of Diane Arbus<br />

AMSTERDAM UPDATE<br />

Pure gold<br />

The story of the Dutch Golden Age<br />

– an era of world trade, economic<br />

growth, wealth, cultural and<br />

religious diversity – vividly brought<br />

to life via historical masterpieces<br />

and multimedia presentations.<br />

THE GOLDEN AGE: LABORATORY<br />

OF OUR WORLD; Until 31 August<br />

2013; Amsterdam Museum,<br />

Kalverstraat 92; +31 20 5231822;<br />

amsterdammuseum.nl<br />

Amsterdam 2013<br />

The city celebrates a number of historical milestones in 2013:<br />

the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum reopen after<br />

renovations, and important anniversaries include the Canal<br />

Ring (400 years) and the Concertgebouw and Royal<br />

Concertgebouw Orchestra (125 years). To celebrate,<br />

Amsterdam 2013, sponsored by<br />

KLM, has organised a year of<br />

cultural events around the city.<br />

First up, the Amsterdam Light<br />

Festival: 7 December-20 January.<br />

klm.com/amsterdam2013<br />

Holland Herald 63


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A JEWEL IN FRANCE'S CROWN<br />

A RIOT OF COLOURS & FLAVOURS<br />

French connection<br />

With its palm-lined seaside promenades, beautiful coastline, perfumed fl ower markets,<br />

and museums bursting with modern art, it’s no wonder this gem on France's<br />

Mediterranean coast has been crowned Queen of the Côte d'Azur.<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

Pleasure domes<br />

Admire 20th-century artworks<br />

by Matisse (musee-matissenice.org)<br />

and Chagall (museesnationaux-alpesmaritimes.fr/<br />

Chagall) in Cimiez, and by<br />

Andy Warhol and Roy<br />

Lichtenstein at the Museum of<br />

Modern and Contemporary<br />

Art (mamac-nice.org). Find four<br />

centuries of European Art at<br />

the Beaux-Arts Museum<br />

(musee-beaux-arts-nice.org).<br />

Parc Phoenix, Place Masséna<br />

and the Promenade des<br />

Anglais are perfect for a stroll.<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Salad? What salad?<br />

Old Nice offers Niçoise and<br />

Mediterranean cuisine, while<br />

Central Nice offers everything<br />

from Japanese to Lebanese<br />

restaurants. Try fl amboyant<br />

Niçoise cusine at La Petite<br />

Maison (lapetitemaison-nice.<br />

com), head to the Promenade<br />

des Anglais for the Michelinstarred<br />

Le Chantecler (hotelnegresco-nice.com),<br />

or choose<br />

La Zucca Magica<br />

(lazuccamagica.com) for the<br />

Riviera's best vegetarian food.<br />

WHERE TO SHOP<br />

Aroma therapy<br />

Nice’s picture-postcard markets<br />

on Cours Saleya bring a riot of<br />

colour to the Old Town. Browse<br />

artfully arrayed chocolates and<br />

candied fruit under the jaunty<br />

striped umbrellas, while scents of<br />

lavender and thyme waft across<br />

its Flower Market. Nice Port is<br />

famed for its antique shops,<br />

while the Flea Market (Les<br />

Puces) on Quai Papacino is<br />

another alternative.<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates several nonstop<br />

fl ights a day to Nice Côte<br />

D’Azur Airport from Amsterdam<br />

Airport Schiphol.<br />

Tourist information<br />

nicetourisme.com<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide pages<br />

– and book your fl ight – on<br />

klm.com. Content provided by<br />

Frommer’s Unlimited © <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

TOUCHDOWN NICE<br />

Photo: Glowimages/Hollandse Hoogte<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

From the heart<br />

No trip to Nice would be<br />

complete without visiting the<br />

heart of the Old Town, Cours<br />

Saleya, and its renowned<br />

Flower Market. Dine on<br />

Niçoise cuisine as you soak<br />

up the atmosphere in this<br />

restaurant-lined<br />

pedestrian area.<br />

NICE DAY AT THE MARKET<br />

Holland Herald 65


SKYSCRAPERS AND URBAN OASES<br />

Cowboys and aliens<br />

Texas's largest city is a stimulating destination that offers up everything from space<br />

simulators and custom-made cowboy boots to succulent steak dinners.<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

State of the art<br />

Houston’s cultural heart, the<br />

Museum District is home to the<br />

Museum of Fine Arts (mfah.<br />

org), the Contemporary Arts<br />

Museum (camh.org), and the<br />

thought-provoking Holocaust<br />

Museum Houston (hmh.org).<br />

The city's frontier spirit is<br />

mirrored at the engaging<br />

Space Center Houston<br />

(spacecenter.org), which<br />

includes tours of NASA's<br />

Mission Control for manned<br />

space fl ights.<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Tex-Mex<br />

Small family-run Mexican<br />

restaurants cluster on<br />

Navigation Boulevard in the<br />

East End, while El Tiempo<br />

(eltiempocantina.com) takes<br />

Mexican food upscale. Don't<br />

leave Houston without trying<br />

fresh stone crabs at Truluck's<br />

(trulucks.com), and tasting a<br />

Texan barbecue at Pappas Bar-<br />

B-Q (pappasbbq.com).<br />

WHERE TO SHOP<br />

Bargains to boot<br />

Houston is home to plenty of<br />

shopping malls and The Galleria<br />

(simon.com) in Uptown is the<br />

fi nest of them all, with upmarket<br />

shops, restaurants and an ice<br />

skating rink. Don't leave town<br />

without a piece of cowboy<br />

paraphernalia from Pinto Ranch<br />

(pintoranch.com) or some<br />

custom-made cowboy boots<br />

from Tejas Custom Boots<br />

STREETCARS & COWGIRL SMILES<br />

(tejascustomboots.com). Serious<br />

bargains can be found at the<br />

weekend Traders Village<br />

(tradersvillage.com).<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates one non-stop<br />

daily fl ight to George Bush<br />

Intercontinental Airport<br />

Houston from Amsterdam<br />

Airport Schiphol.<br />

Tourist information<br />

visithoustontexas.com<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide pages<br />

– and book your fl ight – on<br />

klm.com. Content provided by<br />

Frommer’s Unlimited © <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

TOUCHDOWN HOUSTON<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

Culture trail<br />

Splash about in a boat,<br />

explore a Japanese garden, or<br />

get lost at the Houston Zoo in<br />

Hermann Park. The historic<br />

445-acre urban park is also<br />

home to the Bayou Parkland<br />

and cultural institutions such<br />

as the Miller Outdoor Theatre<br />

and Houston Museum of<br />

Natural Science.<br />

hermannpark.org<br />

EXPLORING WITH AN EAGLE EYE<br />

Holland Herald 67


The master bedroom.<br />

CuraçaoXL is part of Aan Zee Holiday Homes, the leading travel organization in holiday housing from Holland.<br />

Curaçao’s finest villa rentals .com<br />

SILVER ARROWS 1934-1939<br />

11th OCTOBER <strong>2012</strong> - 6th JANUARY 2013<br />

www.visitsilverarrows.nl


SITTING ON THE DOCK BY THE BAY<br />

California-cation<br />

This California city is renowned for its cable cars, hilly terrain, fi ne museums, cultural<br />

diversity, landmark attractions and destination neighbourhoods.<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

Cells, sea & science<br />

Fisherman's Wharf, a walk<br />

across Golden Gate Bridge and<br />

a trip to Alcatraz Island are a<br />

must. Combat the city’s steep<br />

hillsides in a cable car ride to<br />

Union Square. For an art fi x,<br />

head to the San Francisco<br />

Museum of Modern Art<br />

(sfmoma.org) or de Young<br />

Museum (deyoung.famsf.org).<br />

Kids will love the sea lions on<br />

Pier 39 (Fisherman’s Wharf),<br />

Zeum (zeum.org) and<br />

Exploratorium (exploratorium.<br />

edu).<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Chowder trip<br />

For the classic San Francisco<br />

experience, it has to be seafood<br />

and sourdough bread at<br />

Fisherman's Wharf. Try Boudin at<br />

the Wharf (boudinbakery.com), or<br />

old-school classics like Swan<br />

Oyster Depot (1517 Polk Street; +1<br />

415 6731101) in Russian Hill. The<br />

Mission District offers plenty of<br />

budget ethnic eateries, while dim<br />

sum isn't just found in Chinatown;<br />

Downtown's Yank Sing<br />

(yanksing.com) is among the best.<br />

WHERE TO SHOP<br />

Beat books and<br />

bohemian chic<br />

Photo in the middle: Ty Milford/Aurora Open/Hollandse Hoogte<br />

Union Square is the heart of San<br />

Francisco's shopping scene, but<br />

for inexpensive gifts, Chinatown<br />

is best. For vintage fashion and<br />

rare CDs, Haight Street's La Rosa<br />

(1171 Haight Street; +1 415 6683744)<br />

and Amoeba Records (amoeba.<br />

com) are the places to go. In<br />

North Beach, browse the shelves<br />

TOUCHDOWN SAN FRANCISCO<br />

ATOP THE GOLDEN GATE<br />

of the literary landmark City<br />

Lights Books (citylights.com),<br />

while foodies should head to<br />

the Embarcadero's Ferry<br />

Building Marketplace<br />

(ferrybuildingmarketplace.com).<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates fi ve non-stop<br />

fl ights a week to San Francisco<br />

International Airport from<br />

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.<br />

Tourist information<br />

sanfrancisco.travel<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide<br />

pages – and book your fl ight –<br />

on klm.com. Content provided<br />

by Frommer’s Unlimited ©<br />

<strong>2012</strong>, Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

STREETCAR NAMED FUN<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

Bird’s eye view<br />

Located atop Telegraph Hill,<br />

Coit Tower offers the best<br />

panoramic views of the city.<br />

Inside the 64m tower is a<br />

rotunda with several murals<br />

of California. Take the<br />

elevator to the top fl oor<br />

observation area for even<br />

better views. Open daily from<br />

10am-6pm.<br />

1 Telegraph Hill;<br />

+1 415 3620808<br />

VIEWS ACROSS THE CITY<br />

Holland Herald 69<br />

Photo: S. Borisov/Shutterstock


A SMILE GOES A LONG WAY TRADITIONS AND TECHNOLOGY<br />

Jostling Jozi<br />

Ditch demure. Fondly known as Jozi or Joburg, the largest city in sub-Saharan Africa<br />

is a one that embraces life to the full.<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

Square deal<br />

Nelson Mandela Square in<br />

Sandton stages art<br />

performances and shows<br />

around the bronze statue<br />

of Mandela. Top of Africa in<br />

the Central Business District<br />

has great city views<br />

(150 Commissioner Street;<br />

+27 11 3081331).<br />

WHERE TO BOOGIE<br />

Feel the bass<br />

In Newtown, Bassline<br />

(bassline.co.za) specialises in<br />

jazz, blues and African rap,<br />

while Sunninghill's Movida<br />

(movida.co.za) is a Moulin<br />

Rouge-style club and theatre<br />

rolled into one. Inspired by<br />

Japanese pop culture, Tokyo<br />

Sky (Shop 32, Fourways View,<br />

Corner of Cedar Rd & Witkoppen<br />

Rd; +27 11 4650704) attracts a<br />

sophisticated crowd with its<br />

dance music, R&B and hiphop,<br />

as well as its Japanese anime<br />

exhibits. Mellow Melville offers<br />

24-hour fun at Catz Pyjamas<br />

(catzpyjamas.co.za) and reggae<br />

at Cool Runnings (27, 4th<br />

Avenue; +27 11 4824786).<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Spice of life<br />

Top-notch international<br />

restaurants, including the<br />

authentic Indian Bukhara<br />

(bukhara.com), crowd the classy<br />

suburb of Sandton. Head to<br />

Newtown to try melktert (milk<br />

tart) or full-fl avoured babotie<br />

(spiced mince casserole) at<br />

TOUCHDOWN JOHANNESBURG<br />

internationally acclaimed,<br />

historic Gramadoelas<br />

(gramadoelas.co.za), or sample<br />

it in Soweto for a more<br />

authentic experience.<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates one non-stop<br />

daily fl ight to Johannesburg O.R.<br />

Tambo International Airport from<br />

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.<br />

Tourist information<br />

joburgtourism.com<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide pages<br />

– and book your fl ight – on klm.<br />

com. Content provided by<br />

Frommer’s Unlimited © <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

The bold<br />

and beautiful<br />

For an excursion out of the<br />

city and into another world,<br />

consider the 160 kilometre<br />

drive to Sun City. With its own<br />

water park, crocodile<br />

sanctuary, golf course, lake<br />

and cultural village, it may not<br />

be understated, but it will<br />

certainly entertain.<br />

sun-city-south-africa.com<br />

FUN IN THE SUN<br />

Holland Herald 71


BEACH BUGGIES WITH A DIFFERENCE<br />

The sky’s the limit<br />

Dubai, in the United Arab Emirates, is synonymous with luxury. Lavish shopping malls,<br />

sumptuous suites and magnifi cent entertainment sit alongside spot-lit mosques and<br />

aromatic souks. Get ready to spoil yourself silly.<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

Thrills and chills<br />

Whiz around at the Dubai<br />

Autodrome (dubaiautodrome.<br />

com) or chill out at the indoor<br />

ski slope at Ski Dubai (skidxb.<br />

com). Visits to the Dubai<br />

Museum (Al Fahidi Fort, Bur<br />

Dubai), the Bastakia District<br />

(Bur Dubai), and Jumeirah<br />

Mosque (Jumeirah Beach<br />

Road), give an insight into<br />

Dubai’s history and culture. An<br />

evening stroll at the busy<br />

Dhow Wharfrage shows off<br />

Dubai’s diverse charm.<br />

WHERE TO SHOP<br />

Arabian lights<br />

High-street brands and<br />

designer labels can be found<br />

at Mall of the Emirates<br />

(malloftheemirates.com), while<br />

Wafi Mall (wafi .com) has an<br />

artisan’s market and unique<br />

boutiques. With a decor based<br />

on the travels of the famous<br />

Arabic explorer, the Ibn<br />

Battuta Mall (ibnbattutamall.<br />

com) has high-street brands,<br />

local boutiques, restaurants<br />

and an IMAX theatre.<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Supreme cuisine<br />

Savour cuisine from a celebrity<br />

chef at Gordon Ramsay’s Verre<br />

(hilton.co.uk/dubaicreek).<br />

Mediterranean dishes are served<br />

200 metres above sea level at<br />

Al Muntaha in the seven-star<br />

Burj Al Arab hotel (jumeirah.com)<br />

GLASSY SHOPPING<br />

or venture out to the desert to<br />

sample traditional Arabic fare<br />

under the stars at Al<br />

Hadheerah (jumeirah.com).<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates ten non-stop<br />

fl ights a week to Dubai<br />

International Airport from<br />

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.<br />

Tourist information<br />

dubaitourism.ae<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide pages<br />

– and book your fl ight – on klm.<br />

com. Content provided by<br />

Frommer’s Unlimited © <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

TOUCHDOWN DUBAI<br />

Photo: Elina/Shutterstock<br />

WATERSIDE TOURING<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

Crane<br />

your neck<br />

This is one landmark that<br />

shouldn’t be too hard to spot.<br />

The world’s tallest building,<br />

the Burj Khalifa is over 800<br />

metres high and might leave<br />

you feeling on top of the<br />

world. Start your upward<br />

journey from The Dubai Mall.<br />

But don’t worry; the only<br />

energy you will expend will<br />

be in summoning the high<br />

speed elevator.<br />

burjkhalifa.ae<br />

ON TOP OF THE WORLD<br />

Photo: Rahhal/Shutterstock<br />

Holland Herald 73


CARIBBEAN COLOUR<br />

DON’T MISS<br />

Small wonders<br />

The tiny nature reserve of<br />

Shete Boka National Park<br />

offers views of Curaçao's<br />

rugged north coast, 2km from<br />

Christoffel National Park.<br />

Explore a scenic network of<br />

walking trails to limestone<br />

grottoes and fossilised caves<br />

where sea turtles breed in<br />

the protected waters below.<br />

carmabi.org<br />

WALKS OF LIFE<br />

Photo: Gail Mooney/Masterfi le TOUCHDOWN CURAÇAO<br />

74 Holland Herald<br />

EASY COME, EASY GO<br />

The big easy<br />

Mangrove forests, coral reefs, endless beaches and colonial Willemstad,<br />

with its UNESCO World Heritage architecture, make this charming Caribbean gem the<br />

ideal destination for a chilled-out island get-away.<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

Sights to sea<br />

Dive into the island’s seafaring<br />

history at the Curaçao<br />

Maritime Museum<br />

(curacaomaritime.com) or The<br />

Curaçao Museum (Van<br />

Leeuwenhoekstraat,<br />

Willemstad; +599 9 4623873),<br />

housed in a handsome<br />

19th-century mansion. Wild<br />

and beautiful Christoffel<br />

National Park (christoffelpark.<br />

org) offers hiking through a<br />

landscape of cacti and orchids<br />

or swimming and diving in the<br />

clear blue sea.<br />

WHERE TO SHOP<br />

Ceramic and spice<br />

Housed in a distinctive<br />

Photo: Superstock/Hollandse Hoogte<br />

CHILD'S PLAY<br />

building near the Queen<br />

Wilhelmina footbridge,<br />

stallholders at the New Market<br />

(Punda, Willemstad) sell woven<br />

baskets, palm-fi bre bags, an<br />

array of spices and freshly<br />

baked bread. Pick up Curaçao’s<br />

signature ceramic miniature<br />

kunuku houses at specialist<br />

potter Keramos (Kaya Col, Kay<br />

Winkel 2, Willemstad; +599 9<br />

7374676).<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Culture food<br />

Thursday is lobster night at<br />

seafood eatery Brakkeput Mei<br />

Mei (brakkeputmeimei.com). The<br />

menu at upmarket Bistro La<br />

Clochard (bistroleclochard.com)<br />

warrants a gastronomic splurge,<br />

and Brazilian steakhouse<br />

l’Aldea (laldeacur.com) is a<br />

genuine churrascaria<br />

meat feast.<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

KLM operates eight direct<br />

fl ights a week to Curaçao Hato<br />

Airport from Amsterdam<br />

Airport Schiphol.<br />

Tourist information<br />

curacao.com<br />

Looking for handy, up-to-date<br />

travel information? Check out<br />

KLM’s Destination Guide pages<br />

– and book your fl ight – on<br />

klm.com. Content provided by<br />

Frommer’s Unlimited © <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

Whatsonwhen Limited.<br />

Photo: Hoogervorst/Hollandse Hoogte


Call home from the Netherlands with the FREE €1 call credit<br />

to let your friends and family know you have arrived<br />

Welcome WWWWWWWWWWWWeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllllllcccccccccccooooooooooommmmmmmmmmmmeeeeeeeeeeee<br />

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Netherlands<br />

NNNNNNNNNNNNethhhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrlllllllllllaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnddddddddddsssssssssss<br />

International calls<br />

from<br />

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from<br />

For information on our call rates or for general terms<br />

and conditions please visit www.lycamobile.nl<br />

Belhuizen<br />

Exchange the voucher for your FREE SIM<br />

with inclusive call credit at the<br />

Lycamobile stall in Schiphol Airport<br />

Arrivals 4<br />

Arrivals 3<br />

*For all phone calls made with the Lycamobile prepaid SIM a setup fee of 19 cent is applicable (except mentioned otherwise). All offers and<br />

prices can be adapted or stopped by Lycamobile Distribution Limited at any time. All prices shown are per minute and can be modified at any<br />

time; you need at least 20 cents credit on your Lycamobile SIM card to benefit from all Lycamobile offers<br />

Schiphol Plaza<br />

Arrivals 2<br />

Arrivals 1<br />

Lycamobile stall<br />

If the voucher for your SIM is missing, please quote the following code<br />

HH12<strong>2012</strong> at the Lycamobile stall in Schipol Airport<br />

R


BAGS<br />

Hartenstraat 37<br />

1016 CA Amsterdam<br />

SHOES<br />

Hartenstraat 1<br />

1016 BZ Amsterdam<br />

SPECIALS<br />

Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 32<br />

1017 DG Amsterdam<br />

tel: +31 20 6269212<br />

info@hestervaneeghen.com<br />

www.hestervaneeghen.com


JUMPING A STREAM IN THE WAKHAN CORRIDOR, AFGHANISTAN. PHOTOGRAPHED BY JAN BAKKER<br />

Inspire us with<br />

your world<br />

Travelling is a great source of inspiration,<br />

and photography is a great way of<br />

capturing those special moments.<br />

Whether it’s landscapes, architecture,<br />

portraits or close-ups, creativity can be<br />

drawn from many sources.<br />

Show us your ‘Journeys of Inspiration’<br />

photos, and you could win two<br />

return tickets to a KLM destination of<br />

your choice!<br />

A goody bag every<br />

three months!<br />

Exact goody bag may differ from those shown<br />

How does it work?<br />

Every three months, there’s a new<br />

theme. At the end of each quarter, we’ll<br />

give away a KLM ‘goody bag’ to three<br />

photographers who, in our opinion, have<br />

sent in the most inspiring photographs<br />

within the theme.<br />

At the end of the year, we’ll choose an<br />

overall winner and two runners-up (see<br />

‘What you can win’ for details) from the<br />

quarterly winners.<br />

The theme<br />

For October, November and December<br />

<strong>2012</strong>, the theme is Movement.<br />

Don’t be late…<br />

Entries for Movement this quarter must<br />

be received by 1 January 2013. See the<br />

holland-herald.com website for details.<br />

Get inspired<br />

Visit holland-herald.com for a selection<br />

of beautiful entries from previous years.<br />

PHOTO CONTEST<br />

What you can win<br />

THE GRAND PRIZE<br />

Two intercontinental Economy<br />

Class return tickets on KLM flights.<br />

FIRST RUNNER-UP<br />

A KLM voucher*, value €500, to<br />

be used towards the purchase of<br />

a KLM ticket.<br />

SECOND RUNNER-UP<br />

A KLM voucher*, value €250, to<br />

be used towards the purchase of<br />

a KLM ticket.<br />

*Vouchers can be redeemed at most IATA-accredited travel<br />

agents worldwide. Tickets issued in exchange for vouchers<br />

must bear the same name as that on the voucher.<br />

CONTEST RULES • Photographs can be submitted digitally<br />

(high-res is recommended) or printed (up to 10x15cm) • Photos will<br />

not be returned • Holland Herald, KLM, MediaPartners Group and<br />

the publishers, Ink Publishing, accept no responsibility for lost<br />

material • Copyright clearance and permission of subjects are the<br />

responsibility of the photographers • KLM and Ink Publishing<br />

acquire the rights for future use of the images • The competition is<br />

open to readers of Holland Herald who are 18 years of age or older<br />

on the date of entry and who have flown with KLM during the<br />

entry period • Entrants for the Grand Prize will be notified as soon<br />

as possible after the relevant quarter • Employees of KLM, Ink<br />

Publishing and MediaPartners Group, participating promotional<br />

agencies, contributors to Holland Herald, and the families of any<br />

of the above are not eligible to enter this competition • The<br />

judges’ decisions are final • No prizes can be exchanged for cash.<br />

Holland Herald 77


The country is blessed with an incredible array<br />

of rich natural resources and mineral deposits<br />

in mineable quantities, as well as over 40% of<br />

the Earth’s black loam soil.<br />

In addition, Ukraine is also favourably positioned<br />

at the crossroads of four of the world’s<br />

major trading regions: Europe, Russia, the<br />

Middle East and Asia. Once a stop on the silk<br />

routes to India, Persia and China, the country is<br />

currently re-establishing itself as one of Eastern<br />

Europe’s foremost trade hubs.<br />

ADVERTORIAL<br />

UKRAINE<br />

THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN EUROPE<br />

Rich in resources, enviably located and investing heavily in its<br />

future development, Ukraine is Europe’s best-kept secret<br />

T<br />

here is an old Slavic folk story<br />

that says that when God<br />

created the world, he flew around<br />

it, holding all of its treasures in his<br />

hands. He would drop these one by<br />

one, but when he was over Ukraine,<br />

he sneezed and dropped them all.SLOVENIA<br />

GERMANY<br />

CCZECH REPUBLIC<br />

AUSTRIA<br />

CROAT CR CROATIA<br />

POLAND<br />

SLO LOVAKIA<br />

Central<br />

Europe<br />

HUNNGARY<br />

BOSNIA<br />

AND NN<br />

HERZEGOVINAAA<br />

SEERBIA<br />

Nothern<br />

Europe<br />

LITHUANIA<br />

ESTONIA<br />

Baltics<br />

Scandinavia<br />

LATVIA<br />

LATGALE<br />

BELARUS<br />

Southern Europe<br />

Middle East<br />

Africa<br />

BULGARIA<br />

Kyiv<br />

Middle East,<br />

Trans Caucasus<br />

Central Asia<br />

CIS nations<br />

RUSSIAN FEDERATION<br />

Black Sea<br />

CIS nations<br />

Central Asia<br />

China<br />

Far East<br />

GEORGIA


UNLOCKING UKRAINE’S TREASURE<br />

ADVERTORIAL<br />

Although now a member of the World Trade Organization, Ukraine is<br />

still in transition from a centrally controlled command economy to a<br />

<br />

changing business environment. Consequently, The State Agency for<br />

Investment and National Projects of Ukraine has overseen the creation<br />

of a ‘One-Stop Shop’ to provide professional support to foreign investors,<br />

and to help them navigate their way through the country’s maze of<br />

legislative and regulatory systems.<br />

Since its inception, the Agency has adopted a pivotal role in a series of<br />

projects that address key areas of national development, with the hope<br />

of establishing a new economic stability, a better quality of life and<br />

a stronger welfare system, and to address some of the most pressing<br />

environmental issues of our time.These projects include:<br />

The construction of an LNG import terminal<br />

<br />

A project to guarantee high quality drinking<br />

water for all<br />

A project to build 10 new solid-waste processing<br />

plants<br />

The creation of a 4G national information<br />

and communication network, accessible to<br />

over 20,000 schools<br />

The construction of a high-speed rail link<br />

<br />

International Airport, as well as a ring road<br />

around the city<br />

A series of projects promoting the development<br />

of Ukraine’s manufacturing industries<br />

A project to improve tourism and sports<br />

facilities in the Carpathian Mountain region,<br />

with a view to bidding for the 2022 Winter<br />

Olympic Games.<br />

“Ukraine is an ancient<br />

nation that once<br />

served as one of the<br />

three original pillars<br />

of Christendom; it<br />

was the bastion in<br />

the east that saved<br />

the continent from<br />

the Mongol hordes;<br />

its Cossacks wrote the very first constitution<br />

in Europe; it has endured some of the worst<br />

conflicts and inhumanities of the 20th century.<br />

Nevertheless, the Ukrainian people have<br />

survived and prospered. Our nation has a great<br />

deal to learn from and a great deal to offer to the<br />

rest of the world. Our resources are vast and our<br />

intellectual capacity overwhelming.<br />

The State Agency for Investment and National<br />

Projects under the aegis of the President is a<br />

worthy attempt to break the stranglehold of the<br />

past and demonstrate that Ukraine can,<br />

TAX INCENTIVES FOR BUSINESS<br />

Gradual reduction of corporate income tax:<br />

21% until 31 December, <strong>2012</strong><br />

19% from 1 January, 2013<br />

16% from 1 January, 2014<br />

Reduced corporate income<br />

tax for software companies:<br />

5% starting 1 January, 2013<br />

0% corporate income<br />

tax until 2022 for<br />

certain industries<br />

Tax incentives for investment projects, to<br />

stimulate new jobs creation, starting 1 January,<br />

2013<br />

Various tax breaks for projects in energy<br />

efficiency and renewable energy<br />

More information is availible at<br />

www.investukraine.com<br />

or by e-mail<br />

info@ukrproject.gov.ua


Merry<br />

Christmas<br />

Take it easy this Christmas and<br />

indulge yourself with some last<br />

minute surprises. Coca-Cola and KLM<br />

are giving you the opportunity to spend<br />

Christmas with your loved ones, to share<br />

the Christmas happiness together.<br />

Make sure to register no later than December 11, <strong>2012</strong><br />

http://ifly.to/christmas-family-break<br />

© <strong>2012</strong> The Coca-Cola Company. “Coca-Cola”, the “Coca-Cola Red Disc” icon and the design of<br />

the “Coca-Cola Contour bottle” are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company.


Travellers Check<br />

KLM PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS<br />

Photo: KLM/MAI<br />

1953<br />

Elephant and chicken in a<br />

DC-4. The chicken got to tag<br />

along because she helped<br />

the elephant feel at home,<br />

reducing travel stress.<br />

Contents<br />

Hartman Quarterly 83<br />

Products & services 84<br />

Flying Blue news 87<br />

Jac Goderie column 87<br />

KLM entertainment 89<br />

KLM takes care 91<br />

SkyTeam news 93<br />

KLM partners 95<br />

The fleet 97<br />

KLM route maps 99<br />

Schiphol, hub gates 107<br />

Amsterdam map 109<br />

Fit for flying 110<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 81


Originals wanted.<br />

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www.chronoswiss.com


Photo: Steven Puetzer/Getty Images<br />

Homeward bound<br />

This time of year is<br />

traditionally when<br />

people around the world<br />

travel to visit friends<br />

and family.<br />

The many and varied holidays, in<br />

cultures across the globe, draw so<br />

many of us home. Home could be nearby,<br />

but in many cases, could also be on the<br />

other side of the world.<br />

Some of these journeys will involve<br />

stepping aboard a plane. And, of course,<br />

for KLM it’s great if that plane happens<br />

to be one of ours. From the moment<br />

they board, we want our passengers to<br />

feel truly welcome and at home. Anyone<br />

who spends a few hours in one of our<br />

aeroplanes will experience the whole<br />

KLM package. This not only includes our<br />

catering and in-fl ight entertainment, but<br />

also the service of our employees. Our<br />

cabin crew focus on providing a warm<br />

welcome, to ensure that all our passengers<br />

feel at ease and enjoy their time on board.<br />

A positive experience will, hopefully, result<br />

in their choosing to fl y with KLM again in<br />

the future - be it for business, a weekend<br />

getaway or to visit family and friends<br />

around the world.<br />

“When on board, we<br />

want our passengers<br />

to feel at home”<br />

KLM HARTMAN HARTM QUARTERLY<br />

It is KLM’s mission to help people<br />

connect, to bring them together. On the<br />

business side of things, we ensure that<br />

economies are mutually connected and<br />

that trade can be driven. Aviation is, after<br />

all, one of the drivers of economic activity<br />

and we’re happy to contribute to that.<br />

Those who live far from home, due to<br />

work for example, don’t always have the<br />

opportunity to pop back home. They often<br />

have to wait for holidays or special events<br />

to see their families. We want to be sure<br />

that whoever is returning home already<br />

feels at home the moment they come<br />

aboard one of our planes. For 93 years,<br />

KLM has worked to provide that sense of<br />

home, and we hope to continue to do so<br />

for many years to come.<br />

PETER F. HARTMAN,<br />

PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER,<br />

KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 83


Reserve your seat as you book<br />

Passengers on both European and intercontinental<br />

fl ights can now reserve where they sit while booking their<br />

tickets online. Whether you are looking for a window, aisle<br />

or an extra comfortable seat – such as those with additional<br />

legroom or in Economy Comfort – you can rest assured you<br />

have secured your favourite seat in good time.<br />

For those who haven’t booked online or need more time<br />

to decide, seats can also be booked at any time via KLM’s<br />

‘My Trip’ service (formerly ‘Manage my Booking’) on klm.com.<br />

What’s more, KLM has redesigned its cabin plans, giving<br />

passengers a better impression of the plane’s layout.<br />

KLM wins award for Best Staff Service<br />

SERVICE WITH AWARD-WINNING SMILES<br />

AIR FRANCE KLM partners<br />

with Etihad Airways<br />

The AIR FRANCE-KLM Group and<br />

Etihad Airways have joined forces<br />

to create a new commercial partnership.<br />

As of October <strong>2012</strong>, passengers on<br />

all three airlines can fl y to many more<br />

destinations thanks to the mutual<br />

code-share agreements between KLM,<br />

AIR FRANCE and Etihad Airways.<br />

Code-share routes include fi ve<br />

destinations for KLM passengers in<br />

84 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK<br />

This year, KLM won the World Airline<br />

Award for ‘Best Airline Staff Service<br />

in Europe’. This award is based on a<br />

worldwide survey carried out by Skytrax,<br />

the world’s leading airline and airport<br />

review site. Over a period of ten months,<br />

18 million passengers on 200 airlines<br />

were asked about their experiences with<br />

airlines, both on the ground and in the air.<br />

“KLM personnel play a crucial part<br />

in the service KLM offers,” says KLM<br />

President & CEO, Peter Hartman. “The<br />

personal contact they provide is truly<br />

appreciated by passengers in these<br />

diffi cult times, and it has a positive impact<br />

on their journey. Winning this award<br />

shows how motivated KLM personnel<br />

are in providing a service that so satisfi es<br />

our passengers.”<br />

Asian and Australian markets and<br />

fi ve European destinations for Etihad<br />

passengers on KLM. Etihad Airways<br />

customers can fl y on the KLM-operated<br />

Amsterdam-to-Abu Dhabi route fi ve<br />

times per week. KLM passengers can<br />

connect in Abu Dhabi for fl ights to<br />

Colombo in Sri Lanka, Islamabad and<br />

Lahore in Pakistan, and Melbourne and<br />

Sydney in Australia.<br />

‘My Trip’<br />

online service<br />

KLM’s ‘My Trip’ replaces the former<br />

‘Manage my Booking’ service, and is<br />

available to passengers on klm.com.<br />

‘My Trip’ offers you a one-stop-shop<br />

solution to view, change, upgrade and<br />

complete your trip at any time on any<br />

device (desktop, mobile, tablet etc). It<br />

also provides a more personal approach,<br />

with relevant offers and trip-specifi c<br />

information such as health advice, visa<br />

details and so on. Visit<br />

‘My Trip’ on klm.com<br />

for more details.<br />

NEW ROUTE TO SYDNEY VIA ABU DHABI


More comfort in<br />

Economy<br />

Seats in the Economy Comfort zone have substantially more legroom than<br />

regular seats and recline twice as far. Economy Comfort seats can be purchased<br />

when buying a ticket online or via ‘My Trip’ (the former ‘Manage my Booking’) on<br />

klm.com, at a kiosk at the airport, or on board (depending on availability). Flying<br />

Blue members can also use Miles to purchase Economy Comfort seats via ‘My Trip’.<br />

Economy Comfort seats are also now available on selected European fl ights.<br />

World-class dining<br />

Passengers in World Business Class<br />

can now enjoy menus created by<br />

the internationally renowned Dutch<br />

chef, Richard Ekkebus. His culinary<br />

achievements at the Amber restaurant<br />

in The Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hong<br />

Kong, where he is culinary director,<br />

have already earned him two Michelin<br />

stars. Having built his reputation on a<br />

solid foundation of traditional French<br />

cooking techniques, Ekkebus is known<br />

for his focus on superior produce and<br />

innovative presentation, creating Frenchstyle<br />

haute cuisine with a contemporary<br />

and light feel.<br />

KLM PRODUCTS & SERVICES<br />

KLM<br />

to go<br />

Five smartphone<br />

apps bring KLM’s<br />

products and<br />

services to your<br />

fi ngertips, no matter<br />

where you are<br />

KLM APP<br />

With the KLM App, you can book a<br />

fl ight, check in, select a seat, store<br />

your boarding pass, follow the status of KLM<br />

fl ights, view your Flying Blue Miles balance or<br />

ask KLM a question via Facebook or Twitter.<br />

Pay for your booking using PayPal or credit<br />

card. Available in ten languages.<br />

KLM TRIPSHAKE<br />

Looking for travel inspiration? Select<br />

a continent and travel dates – or<br />

leave it all up to chance – and shake your<br />

phone. You can book a fl ight directly via the<br />

app. Available in Dutch, English and German.<br />

KLM PASSPORT<br />

Share your travel memories in a<br />

fun and inspiring way. Pick a theme<br />

and add your travel photos; the app creates a<br />

unique, personal holiday movie for you. Winner<br />

of the Lovie award for best app, it adds a<br />

stamp in your digital passport for every movie<br />

you make.<br />

KLM MOVIES & MORE<br />

Provides a complete listing of all<br />

the programming on board KLM’s<br />

intercontinental fl ights. Movies, TV, Music and<br />

Kids listings are included, with full synopses and<br />

trailers for features in Latest Movies.<br />

KLM HOUSES<br />

Images and descriptions of all 93<br />

KLM Delft Blue houses are included<br />

in this handy app. Locate the original houses<br />

on Google Maps and keep track of the ones<br />

you have with the built-in checklist.<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 85


An impulse fl ight<br />

Two nights’ sweet dreams<br />

Simple to join, so much to experience.<br />

Enrol at klm.com or airfrance.com<br />

A scenic drive<br />

An escape<br />

for two<br />

Because travelling continues beyond the airport, the frequent traveller programme Flying Blue accompanies you at each step of<br />

your journey and throughout your stay. The more you fl y with KLM, AIR FRANCE and our SkyTeam airline partners, the more Miles<br />

you’ll earn and benefi ts you’ll enjoy. And when it comes to spending your Miles, our network of airline and non-airline partners<br />

offers you the opportunity to create experiences to suit your taste and your mood. Let Flying Blue take you further.<br />

- Magnus Winter/Bransch


KLM FLYING BLUE NEWS<br />

New Flying Blue benefi ts<br />

Flying Blue offers hundreds of opportunities to earn and spend Award Miles,<br />

and members can now enjoy a range of new benefi ts. An increase in the availability of<br />

award tickets within Europe means you have more possibilities to treat yourself to a<br />

holiday. What’s more, award tickets are now available against an all-inclusive Award<br />

Miles rate; with these, the carrier surcharge is now included for European, Israeli and<br />

North African destinations. When it comes to spending your Award Miles, the easy-touse<br />

Flying Blue Store offers speed and convenience; transactions are completed<br />

online and your reservations are sent directly to you. You can also earn Award Miles<br />

while you shop online. For more information, visit fl yingbluenews.com.<br />

Award yourself<br />

Available exclusively online, Promo<br />

Awards@ save you up to 50% on the Award<br />

Miles usually required for award tickets with<br />

KLM, AIR FRANCE and Air Europa. Please<br />

note that Promo Awards@ are frequently<br />

updated and are subject to availability. For<br />

details on this and other promotions, visit<br />

fl yingbluenews.com.<br />

How to join Flying Blue<br />

Earn both Level and Award Miles<br />

with Flying Blue, AIR FRANCE KLM’s<br />

loyalty programme. Award Miles can<br />

be spent on fl ights and products and<br />

services from over 100 partners<br />

worldwide. Level Miles count towards<br />

advancing to a higher membership tier,<br />

which provides benefi ts such as<br />

access to airport lounges and extra<br />

baggage allowance. For further details<br />

or to enrol, visit klm.com.<br />

Andaz Amsterdam<br />

Prinsengracht<br />

Refl ecting the mood of the city, the new<br />

fi ve-star Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht<br />

offers guests personal and down-to-earth<br />

service in a relaxed atmosphere. The<br />

hotel’s inspiring interior was created by the<br />

renowned Dutch designer Marcel Wanders,<br />

who has also worked closely with KLM on<br />

designs for Business Class tableware. Flying<br />

Blue Members can earn Award Miles when<br />

staying at the Andaz Amsterdam. For more<br />

information, visit amsterdam.<br />

prinsengracht.andaz.hyatt.com.<br />

KLM ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Family values<br />

In 2007, The Netherlands was pleasantly<br />

surprised by a high-quality, homegrown<br />

fi lm called Alles is Liefde (Love is All). And<br />

with more than 1.3 million viewers having<br />

enjoyed the fi lm, a successor could not<br />

be avoided. Alles is Familie is made by<br />

the same producers, the same director,<br />

Joram Lürsen, and the same scriptwriter,<br />

Kim van Kooten.<br />

All in all, Alles is Liefde was cheerful,<br />

funny, and a tad emotional – not<br />

surprising since the subject of the fi lm<br />

was love. But when you take a topic such<br />

as family, there’s so much more to explore<br />

and deal with; after all, you don’t get to<br />

choose your family. The dramatic highs<br />

and lows that make up the roller coaster<br />

of life are played out in this fi lm, from<br />

divorce, relationship ruts, mis-matches,<br />

infertility, adultery and death to ecstatic<br />

happiness, success and ultimately, a deep<br />

satisfaction with everyday life and, of<br />

course, family!<br />

JAC GODERIE<br />

Renowned Dutch movie reviewer and<br />

programmer of KLM Infl ight Entertainment.<br />

ALLES IS FAMILIE<br />

For more information on KLM entertainment,<br />

see page 89.<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 87


Book yourself<br />

a quiet seat QuietComfort<br />

With the best-ever noise reducing<br />

headphones from Bose<br />

Control for your<br />

Apple products*<br />

30-day risk-free<br />

home audition<br />

®<br />

15<br />

Acoustic Noise<br />

Cancelling ®<br />

headphones<br />

Bose ®<br />

QuietComfort ®<br />

15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling ®<br />

headphones<br />

Next time you fly, take a train or need to escape from the<br />

bustle of a busy office, put on a pair of QuietComfort ®<br />

15<br />

Acoustic Noise Cancelling ®<br />

headphones. In an instant you’ll<br />

hear less noise than ever before and more of your music and<br />

movies. With the quality sound you expect from Bose and a<br />

fit that stays comfortable for hours the QC ®<br />

15 headphones<br />

from Bose set a new standard<br />

unmatched in the industry.<br />

The headphones that pioneered<br />

an industry are now even better.<br />

Since inventing noise cancelling<br />

headphones over 20 years ago<br />

Bose has followed a programme<br />

of continuous research.<br />

QuietComfort ®<br />

15 headphones<br />

now use microphones both inside<br />

and outside each ear cup to sense and reduce more of the<br />

For further information visit<br />

www.boseqc.eu<br />

Dutch customers can call 0800 267 34 44<br />

unwanted sounds around you. New materials in our proprietarydesigned<br />

ear cushions establish a critical acoustical seal - helping<br />

to reduce noise further while providing a comfortable fit.<br />

Even if you’re used to Bose ®<br />

Acoustic Noise Cancelling ®<br />

headphones<br />

you’ll hear the difference immediately. And if you’re not<br />

used to them, nothing you’ve ever heard will prepare you for<br />

the experience.<br />

Upgrade to the QuietComfort ®<br />

15<br />

Acoustic Noise Cancelling ®<br />

headphones.<br />

We don’t think there’s another headphone or headset that<br />

can match the capabilities of the QC ®<br />

15 – and invite you to<br />

judge their performance for yourself. Order your pair of QC ®<br />

15<br />

headphones today and have 30 days to try them out. Enjoy<br />

the peace, quiet and comfort they offer, enjoy your music with<br />

a clarity, detail and richness of sound you might never have<br />

experienced before. Book yourself a quiet seat – with the<br />

best-ever noise reducing headphones from Bose.<br />

Flying Blue members can earn Miles ordering QuietComfort ®<br />

15<br />

headphones. Visit www.bosefl yingblue.com<br />

©<strong>2012</strong> Bose Corporation. Patent rights issued and/or pending. *Available for select Apple products; the remote and mic are supported only by iPod nano (4th generation and later), iPod classic (120GB, 160GB only), iPod touch (2nd generation and later), iPhone 3GS, iPhone 4, iPad and 2009 models<br />

or later of MacBook and MacBook Pro. The remote is supported by iPod shuffle (3rd generation and later). Audio is supported by all iPod models. Apple, iPhone, iPod, iPod touch, iPod nano, iPod shuffle, iPod classic, MacBook and iPad are trademarks of Apple inc., registered in the U.S. and other<br />

countries. „Made for iPod/iPhone/iPad” means that an electronic accessory has been designed to connect specifically to iPod/iPhone/iPad and has been certified by the developer to meet Apple performance standards. Apple is not responsible for the operation of this device or its compliance<br />

with safety and regulatory standards. The following countries are participating in the Bose Flying Blue Earning Miles promotion: The Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, Italy, United Kingdom, Ireland, Austria, France, Switzerland, Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Finland, Spain, USA and Canada.


HIGHLIGHTS<br />

ROBOT & FRANK<br />

LATEST MOVIES<br />

Alles is Familie (Drama)<br />

Bachelorette (Comedy)<br />

Bellicher: Cel (Action)<br />

The Bourne Legacy (Action)<br />

The Campaign (Comedy)<br />

TELEVISION<br />

A Matter of Time<br />

People & Planet: Through the wormhole<br />

with Morgan Freeman<br />

When you’re having fun, time fl ies. But<br />

when you’re sitting in a traffi c jam, it<br />

doesn’t. The fact that we perceive time is<br />

clear, but is it really there, or is it<br />

something we invented? This fascinating<br />

documentary questions the nature of time<br />

and will challenge your most basic<br />

perceptions about reality.<br />

MOBILE APP<br />

The Expendables 2 (Action, Thriller)<br />

Frankenweenie (Animation, Comedy)<br />

Hope Springs (Comedy, Drama)<br />

Robot & Frank (Comedy, Sci-fi )<br />

Ruby Sparks (Comedy, Romance)<br />

*All content is offered on wide-body aircraft fl ying intercontinental routes and is updated<br />

around the fi rst of each month.<br />

KLM ENTERTAINMENT*<br />

RADIO<br />

KLM FM - Spotlight<br />

André Rieu<br />

The spotlight this month is on The<br />

Netherland’s most successful international<br />

artiste, King of the Waltz André Rieu. He<br />

talks exclusively to KLM about his world<br />

tour, his million-dollar 1667 Stradivarius, and<br />

tells the stories behind his hits, including<br />

And the Waltz Goes On by Anthony<br />

Hopkins. His stage show will be coming to<br />

The Netherlands on 22 December. See<br />

andrerieu.com for a full concert schedule.<br />

ANTHONY HOPKINS AND ANDRÉ RIEU<br />

Getting started<br />

For a complete listing of the more<br />

than 1,000 hours of entertainment<br />

available, check your personal<br />

interactive screen. You can also<br />

check listings on klm.com before<br />

your next fl ight.<br />

KLM K Movies & More app<br />

Now N available on a smartphone near you…<br />

KLM K Movies & More. With so much<br />

entertainment e<br />

to choose from on board,<br />

why w not check out the options before you<br />

fl y? The KLM Movies & More app will give<br />

you y a sneak peek at all the movies, TV,<br />

music m and stuff for kids available on your<br />

next n fl ight. The app is available for Apple<br />

iP iPhones and Android mobile devices.<br />

CHOOSE WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 89


The Creativity<br />

of the Thirties revives with our<br />

New Collection Art Deco furniture<br />

Knibbelweg 8a - 2761 JD - Zevenhuizen - Z H - Tel: +31(0)180 632 259 - email: info@janfrantzen.nl - web: www.janfrantzen.nl


KLM TAKES CARE<br />

Catering with a conscience<br />

Strengthening its position as a leader in<br />

sustainability in the airline industry, KLM<br />

now offers passengers in World Business<br />

Class and European Business Class chicken<br />

that meets the standards of the Dutch Beter<br />

Leven kenmerk-1 star (Better Life<br />

quality seal).<br />

At present, KLM regularly serves<br />

passengers fi sh with the MSC label – which<br />

guarantees that the fi sh have been caught<br />

sustainably – and was the fi rst airline to do<br />

so. Our passengers also enjoy 100%<br />

sustainable UTZ Certifi ed coffee. One of the<br />

world’s largest sustainable programmes for<br />

coffee, tea and cocoa production, UTZ<br />

Certifi ed ensures that farmers who produce<br />

coffee beans under this label receive a fair<br />

“KLM is committed to<br />

offering more<br />

sustainable catering”<br />

“Serving more responsible cuisine on board”<br />

Illustration: studio ANNABEL<br />

price for their product and benefi t from better<br />

working conditions.<br />

Furthermore, KLM also offers organically<br />

produced milk, Caring Dairy cheese, and Beter<br />

Leven-certifi ed cold cuts. On fl ights out of<br />

Amsterdam, we serve Beter Leven-certifi ed<br />

veal (if on the menu), and on fl ights out of<br />

the United States, we serve omelettes made<br />

from ‘cage-free’ eggs. By the end of 2013,<br />

Beter Leven-certifi ed chicken will be offered<br />

to all passengers on fl ights out of Amsterdam.<br />

KLM is committed to offering passengers<br />

more sustainable on-board catering. Our<br />

environmental policy aims to ensure<br />

biodiversity and animal welfare, and we work<br />

closely with organisations such as the World<br />

Wide Fund for Nature The Netherlands<br />

(WWF-NL) and the Dutch Dierenbescherming<br />

(Animal Protection Society) to achieve our<br />

aims. Initiated by Dierenbescherming, the<br />

Beter Leven kenmerk encourages farmers to<br />

give their animals, such as those in the<br />

poultry industry, a better life.<br />

Interactive<br />

CSR platform<br />

KLM Takes Care brings together<br />

all of KLM’s corporate social<br />

responsibility (CSR) activities<br />

under a single brand. The new<br />

brand and logo make it easier for<br />

customers to identify areas where<br />

KLM is working on social and<br />

environmental issues. Visit<br />

klmtakescare.com for<br />

more information.<br />

KLM & WWF-NL<br />

Together with the World Wide<br />

Fund for Nature – The<br />

Netherlands (WWF-NL), KLM is<br />

focusing on creating an<br />

international market for sustainable<br />

biofuels, reducing CO 2 emissions<br />

and improving fuel effi ciency. KLM<br />

also supports WWF-NL’s nature<br />

conservation work – such as its<br />

Coral Triangle projects in Indonesia.<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 91


NEW WINTER<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Fashionable silver si silv lver jewelry jew ewel elry ry to match ma m tc tch your gorgeous gorge geous s look! lo look ok!<br />

See our new collection at www.zınzı.com


“Red carpet service in over 800 airports”<br />

The SkyTeam network<br />

KLM is a member of SkyTeam, an<br />

alliance of 19 airlines that spans the<br />

globe. The alliance provides benefi ts<br />

to customers that include 1,000 global<br />

destinations, access to 525 lounges<br />

worldwide, more coordinated timetables<br />

for convenient connections, enhanced<br />

Destinations<br />

1,000<br />

Countries<br />

187<br />

check-in procedures and fast and<br />

smooth transfers for you and your<br />

baggage. SkyTeam hubs help to make this<br />

coordination possible.<br />

With SkyTeam’s extensive network,<br />

itineraries with connecting fl ights are<br />

easy to arrange. The combined fl ight<br />

KLM SKYTEAM NEWS<br />

Alliance-wide<br />

priority programme<br />

In <strong>2012</strong>, SkyTeam launched SkyPriority,<br />

the only alliance-wide red carpet service<br />

for premium passengers in the airline<br />

industry. This exclusive range of services<br />

– which includes priority check-in,<br />

baggage drop-off, boarding and baggage<br />

pick-up – is offered to Elite Plus, First<br />

and Business Class customers of the<br />

19 SkyTeam member airlines. SkyPriority<br />

was developed to ensure a common and<br />

consistent quality standard for priority<br />

airport services across the alliance.<br />

Passengers will know if they are eligible<br />

for SkyPriority as it will be displayed<br />

on the top of their (printed or mobile)<br />

boarding card.<br />

The SkyPriority programme was fi rst<br />

introduced at Taipei Taoyuan International<br />

Daily departures<br />

15,465<br />

Annual passengers<br />

552 million<br />

schedules give you more choices and<br />

make connections faster and easier.<br />

Passengers on any SkyTeam airline can go<br />

to any of the partners for assistance with<br />

reservations or while travelling.<br />

For more information on the SkyTeam<br />

alliance and network, visit skyteam.com.<br />

Year of formation<br />

2000<br />

Lounges<br />

525<br />

Airport in March <strong>2012</strong>, and was then rolled<br />

out to most of SkyTeam’s hubs, including<br />

Amsterdam, Atlanta, Beijing, Guangzhou,<br />

Nairobi, Paris, Rome and Seoul. More than<br />

800 airports in the SkyTeam network will<br />

offer the SkyPriority programme by the<br />

end of this year, a fi gure that will rise to<br />

over 1,000 airports in 2013.<br />

SkyTeam members continually focus<br />

on and are committed to ensuring<br />

that they deliver a consistent level<br />

of outstanding service. During <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

hundreds of thousands of passengers<br />

experienced integrated and stress-free<br />

travels with SkyPriority. Many more<br />

passengers will enjoy these benefi ts in<br />

2013 as the programme is implemented<br />

throughout the network.<br />

Headquarters<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Website<br />

skyteam.com<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 93


on-the-map deepwater anchorhandling<br />

comfortable working conditions<br />

focus on safe operations<br />

<br />

and, of course:<br />

200 t bollard pull,<br />

400 t winch pull and<br />

20,000 m wire capacity<br />

“<br />

THE NEW DAMEN AHTS 200<br />

DEDICATED HORSEPOWER<br />

After months of research, feedback and adaptation, I can safely say<br />

that our newly designed deepwater Anchor Handling Tug Supply<br />

Vessel is a versatile and state of the art offshore workhorse.<br />

It features 200 t Bollard Pull and a comprehensive winch package for<br />

subsea operations up to and over 3,000 m water depth.<br />

Along with numerous innovations, its outfitting meets the highest<br />

standards and facilitates the demands of modern contractors and<br />

the harsh environment they work in.<br />

JAN VAN OS DIRECTOR DAMEN OFFSHORE<br />

www.damen.com/markets/anchor-handling-tug-supplier | jvo@damen.nl | +31 (0)183 63 99 11<br />


Our partners, your benefi ts<br />

With a world of partners, KLM<br />

guarantees a perfectly integrated<br />

network and superior customer service. In<br />

May 2004, KLM and AIR FRANCE joined<br />

forces to become Europe’s largest airline<br />

group, operating 578 aircraft, fl ying 2,100<br />

fl ights a day and carrying more than<br />

75 million passengers a year. In the same<br />

year, KLM joined SkyTeam, a worldwide<br />

alliance of 19 airlines (see p101).<br />

KLM and its main partners<br />

Founded: 1919<br />

Home base: Amsterdam<br />

Fleet size: 204*<br />

Passengers: 25.2 million<br />

klm.com<br />

Founded: 1987<br />

Home base: Guangzhou<br />

Fleet size: 450<br />

Passengers: 80.7 million<br />

csair.com<br />

* including KLM Cityhopper, Martinair Cargo and transavia.com<br />

Code-share partners<br />

Within SkyTeam, KLM and AIR FRANCE<br />

have set up joint venture agreements<br />

with four main partners: Delta, China<br />

Southern, Alitalia and Kenya Airways.<br />

These agreements make increased<br />

alignment of schedules possible – which<br />

means that passengers have more<br />

fl ights to more destinations, more<br />

fl exible travel options, better fares and<br />

more choice in fares.<br />

Founded: 1933<br />

Home base: Paris<br />

Fleet size: 374**<br />

Passengers: 51 million<br />

airfrance.com<br />

Founded: 2009<br />

Home base: Rome<br />

Fleet size: 147**<br />

Passengers: 25 million<br />

alitalia.com<br />

Other KLM partners<br />

Combined code-share and<br />

Flying Blue partners<br />

KLM PARTNERS<br />

KLM’s code-share and Flying Blue<br />

partnerships extend beyond SkyTeam<br />

to include both airline and non-airline<br />

partners. This all adds up to more<br />

opportunities to earn and spend Flying<br />

Blue Miles. Award Miles can be spent on<br />

fl ights or with over 100 non-airline<br />

partners, such as Marriott, Hertz and<br />

Sony. (See p95 for information regarding<br />

Flying Blue membership and benefi ts.)<br />

Founded: 1928<br />

Home base: Atlanta<br />

Fleet size: 717<br />

Passengers: 160 million<br />

delta.com<br />

Founded: 1977<br />

Home base: Nairobi<br />

Fleet size: 45**<br />

Passengers: 3.6 million<br />

kenya-airways.com<br />

**includes mainline and affi liate<br />

Flying Blue partners<br />

You can earn and/or spend Miles with all SkyTeam alliance members and KLM’s Flying Blue partners; Flying Blue is AIR FRANCE KLM’s loyalty programme. For detailed information, visit klm.com or<br />

airfrance.com. A code-share partner means that even though you have booked a KLM fl ight number, you may fi nd yourself travelling on a service operated by that partner.<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 95


ADVERTISEMENT<br />

ROTTERDAM<br />

EVENT CITY<br />

CITY OF CULTURE<br />

Just a stone’s throw from the sea, Rotterdam offers an<br />

adventurous home to Europe’s biggest port. Every cargo that<br />

arrives and departs links the city to millions of people all over<br />

the world, spanning vast oceans. In such a hyperconnected<br />

port city, it’s no wonder that Rotterdam is a highly<br />

international city of culture. The city hosts a wealth<br />

of cultural festivals throughout the year in the city’s theatres,<br />

concert halls, cinemas, museums and galleries. For several<br />

days in early February, Rotterdam is transformed into the<br />

epicentre of art & design during Art Rotterdam, where<br />

70 international galleries present their most challenging<br />

artists. The Raw Art Fair and Warehouse Art Fair & Festival<br />

will also be held in parallel to this event. Just a month later,<br />

Rotterdam’s art galleries and museums will be opening their<br />

doors to the public until 2 a.m. to celebrate an inspiring<br />

Museum Night.<br />

INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL ROTTERDAM<br />

The biggest cultural crowd-pleaser is in January: the widely<br />

celebrated International Film Festival Rotterdam (IFFR),<br />

filling twelve days of winter with innovative, independent<br />

world cinema and cinematic visual arts. Rotterdam has been<br />

hosting the IFFR for 42 years now. Attracting thousands of<br />

visitors from the Netherlands and beyond, as well as more<br />

than 2500 national and international film professionals,<br />

the IFFR is a magnificent cultural festival, the biggest of its<br />

kind world-wide. The festival offers a varied and fascinating<br />

assortment of films for audiences of all ages, from cuttingedge<br />

arthouse to trendy entertainment.<br />

ROTTERDAM<br />

WELCOMES YOU<br />

IFFR 2013<br />

23 JAN - 3 FEB<br />

WWW.ROTTERDAM.INFO<br />

© Architectenbureau ZUS


Artwork KLM fl eet: Hans Murris, KLM Engineering & Maintenance, SPL/WM<br />

SCALE: 1CM = APPROX. 8.56M<br />

Boeing 747-400 Passenger/Combi<br />

McDonnell Douglas MD-11<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 7<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 880<br />

RANGE (KM) 11,000<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 280,300<br />

Airbus A330-200/300<br />

Boeing 737-700<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 18<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 850<br />

RANGE (KM) 3,500<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 64,000<br />

Embraer 190<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 22<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 850<br />

RANGE (KM) 3,300<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 45,600<br />

KLM FLEET<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 7/15<br />

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 415/275<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 920<br />

TOTAL LENGTH (M) 70.67<br />

RANGE (KM) 11,500<br />

WINGSPAN (M) 64.44<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 390,100/396,900 PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT<br />

MAX. FREIGHT (KG) 35,000<br />

Boeing 747-400ER Freighter MAX. FREIGHT (KG) 112,000<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 4<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 920<br />

RANGE (KM) 11,500<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 412,800<br />

Boeing 777-300ER<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 7<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 920<br />

RANGE (KM) 12,000<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 351,543<br />

Boeing 777-200ER<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 15<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 900<br />

RANGE (KM) 11,800<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 297,500<br />

TOTAL LENGTH (M) 70.67<br />

WINGSPAN (M) 64.44<br />

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 425<br />

TOTAL LENGTH (M) 73.86<br />

WINGSPAN (M) 64.80<br />

PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT<br />

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 318<br />

TOTAL LENGTH (M) 63.80<br />

WINGSPAN (M) 60.90<br />

PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT<br />

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 285<br />

TOTAL LENGTH (M) 61.21<br />

WINGSPAN (M) 51.96<br />

PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 11/3<br />

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 243/292<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 880/880 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 58.37/63.69<br />

RANGE (KM) 8,800/8,200 WINGSPAN (M) 60.30/60.30<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 230,000/233,000 PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Boeing 737-900<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 5<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 850<br />

RANGE (KM) 4,300<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 76,900<br />

Boeing 737-800<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 23<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 850<br />

RANGE (KM) 4,200<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 73,700<br />

Fokker 70/100<br />

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 26/1<br />

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 743/740<br />

RANGE (KM) 2,400/2,400<br />

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 38,000/44,400<br />

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 189<br />

TOTAL LENGTH (M) 42.12<br />

WINGSPAN (M) 35.80<br />

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 174<br />

TOTAL LENGTH (M) 39.47<br />

WINGSPAN (M) 35.80<br />

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 132<br />

TOTAL LENGTH (M) 33.62<br />

WINGSPAN (M) 35.80<br />

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 100<br />

TOTAL LENGTH (M) 36.25<br />

WINGSPAN (M) 28.72<br />

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 80/100<br />

TOTAL LENGTH (M) 30.91/35.53<br />

WINGSPAN (M) 28.08/28.08<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 97


ADVERTORIAL


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Dundee<br />

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Newcastle<br />

Durham Tees Valley<br />

Billund Copenhagen<br />

Kaliningrad Vilnius<br />

Moscow<br />

Manchester<br />

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London<br />

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Budapest<br />

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Innsbruck<br />

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Geneva<br />

Ljubljana<br />

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Verona<br />

Venice<br />

Trieste<br />

Timisoara<br />

Simferopol<br />

Bordeaux<br />

Belgrade<br />

Bologna<br />

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Bucharest Constanta Gelendzhik<br />

Bilbao<br />

Montpellier<br />

Marseille<br />

Ancona<br />

Toulon Bastia<br />

Dubrovnik<br />

Perpignan<br />

Zaragoza<br />

Ajaccio<br />

Skopje<br />

Tirana<br />

Istanbul<br />

Naples<br />

Brindisi Thessaloniki<br />

Madrid<br />

Menorca<br />

Albacete<br />

Cagliari<br />

Lamezia-Terme<br />

Lisbon<br />

Alicante<br />

Palermo<br />

Murcia<br />

Trapani<br />

Seville<br />

Catania<br />

Faro<br />

Pantelleria<br />

Antalya<br />

Malaga<br />

Rhodes<br />

Iraklio<br />

Leeds<br />

Oslo<br />

St. Petersburg<br />

Aalborg<br />

Riga<br />

Minsk<br />

Dublin<br />

Liverpool<br />

Birmingham<br />

Warsaw<br />

Cork<br />

Lille<br />

Kiev<br />

Caen Paris<br />

Brno Zilina<br />

Dnipropetrovsk<br />

Vienna<br />

Rennes<br />

Zurich<br />

Donetsk<br />

Iasi<br />

Bacau Odessa<br />

Clermont-Ferrand<br />

Milan<br />

Zagreb<br />

Sibiu<br />

Lyon<br />

Brive<br />

Anapa<br />

Turin<br />

Genoa<br />

Avignon<br />

Nice Florence<br />

Pisa<br />

Split<br />

Santiago De Compostela<br />

Pau<br />

Leon<br />

Logroño<br />

Tivat<br />

Pamplona<br />

Calvi<br />

Sofia<br />

Podgorica<br />

Vigo<br />

Valladolid<br />

Lleida<br />

Rome<br />

Figari<br />

Foggia<br />

Porto<br />

Barcelona<br />

Bari<br />

Salamanca<br />

Reus<br />

Olbia<br />

Valencia Palma De Mallorca<br />

Ibiza<br />

Cordoba<br />

Reggio di Calabria Athens<br />

Granada<br />

Almeria<br />

Malta<br />

Lampedusa<br />

Larnaca<br />

Paphos<br />

Bratislava<br />

Bergen<br />

Helsinki<br />

Stavanger<br />

Sandefjord<br />

Stockholm Tallinn<br />

Kristiansand<br />

Linköping<br />

Goteborg<br />

Aberdeen<br />

Dundee<br />

Glasgow<br />

Edinburgh<br />

Newcastle<br />

Durham Tees Valley<br />

Billund Copenhagen<br />

Kaliningrad Vilnius<br />

Moscow<br />

Manchester<br />

Humberside<br />

Hamburg<br />

Norwich<br />

Bremen<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Berlin<br />

Hannover<br />

Cardiff<br />

London<br />

Leipzig<br />

Dusseldorf<br />

Bristol<br />

Brussels<br />

Dresden<br />

Cologne Karlovy Vary<br />

Prague Krakow<br />

Luxemburg Frankfurt<br />

Ostrava<br />

Nuremberg<br />

Lviv<br />

Stuttgart<br />

Poprad<br />

Strasbourg<br />

Kosice<br />

Brest<br />

Munich<br />

Satu Mare Suceava<br />

Salzburg<br />

Nantes<br />

Basel/Mulhouse<br />

Budapest<br />

Baia Mare<br />

Innsbruck<br />

Oradea Cluj-Napoca<br />

Geneva<br />

Ljubljana<br />

Tirgu Mures<br />

Verona<br />

Venice<br />

Trieste<br />

Timisoara<br />

Simferopol<br />

Bordeaux<br />

Belgrade<br />

Bologna<br />

Asturias Biarritz Toulouse<br />

Bucharest Constanta Gelendzhik<br />

Bilbao<br />

Montpellier<br />

Marseille<br />

Ancona<br />

Toulon Bastia<br />

Dubrovnik<br />

Perpignan<br />

Zaragoza<br />

Ajaccio<br />

Skopje<br />

Foggia<br />

!<br />

Tirana<br />

Istanbul<br />

Naples<br />

Brindisi Thessaloniki<br />

Madrid<br />

Menorca<br />

Albacete<br />

Cagliari<br />

Lamezia-Terme<br />

Lisbon<br />

Alicante<br />

Palermo<br />

Murcia<br />

Trapani<br />

Seville<br />

Catania<br />

Faro<br />

Pantelleria<br />

Antalya<br />

Malaga<br />

Rhodes<br />

Iraklio<br />

Leeds<br />

St. Petersburg<br />

Aalborg<br />

Dublin<br />

Liverpool<br />

Birmingham<br />

Rennes<br />

Odessa<br />

Clermont-Ferrand<br />

Avignon<br />

Florence<br />

Santiago De Compostela<br />

Leon<br />

Logroño<br />

Tivat<br />

Pamplona<br />

Podgorica<br />

Valladolid<br />

Barcelona<br />

Salamanca<br />

Olbia<br />

Valencia Palma De Mallorca<br />

Cordoba<br />

Reggio di Calabria Athens<br />

Granada<br />

Almeria<br />

Malta<br />

Lampedusa<br />

Larnaca<br />

Paphos<br />

Santa Cruz<br />

De La Palma<br />

EUROPE<br />

Lanzarote<br />

Fuerteventura<br />

Gran Canaria<br />

European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share partners<br />

KLM<br />

Aer Lingus<br />

Aeroflot<br />

Air Baltic<br />

Air Europa<br />

Air France<br />

Alitalia<br />

SkyTeam member<br />

KLM MAPS<br />

Belavia<br />

Georgian Airways<br />

Brit Air<br />

Jat Airways<br />

Bulgaria Air<br />

Regional<br />

CAI First (Alitalia Express)<br />

Rossiya<br />

Czech Airlines<br />

Tarom<br />

Cyprus Airways transavia.com<br />

Estonian Air<br />

Ukrainian International<br />

Comments? E-mail maps@mediapartners.nl / Maps: Uitgeverij 12 Provinciën<br />

to to Tbilisi Tbilisi<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 99


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!<br />

Rome<br />

Madrid<br />

Pisa<br />

Nice<br />

Lyon<br />

Lome<br />

Lima<br />

Leon<br />

Kano<br />

Tunis<br />

Rabat<br />

Quito<br />

Paris<br />

Oujda<br />

Natal<br />

Milan<br />

Miami<br />

Lagos<br />

Dakar<br />

Belem<br />

Aruba<br />

Accra<br />

Port Harcourt<br />

Abuja<br />

Zurich<br />

Vienna<br />

Venice<br />

Roatan<br />

Recife<br />

Campina Grande<br />

Prague<br />

Niamey<br />

Munich<br />

Merida<br />

Campeche<br />

Manaus<br />

Malaga<br />

Malabo<br />

Maceio<br />

Macapa<br />

L<br />

Luanda<br />

London<br />

Ilheus<br />

Havana<br />

Dublin<br />

Douala<br />

Djerba<br />

Denver<br />

Dallas<br />

Goiania<br />

Cancun<br />

Boston<br />

Bogota<br />

Berlin<br />

Bangu<br />

Bamako<br />

Yaounde<br />

Vitoria<br />

Tripoli<br />

Torreon<br />

Toronto<br />

Tijuana<br />

Shannon<br />

Seattle<br />

Raleigh<br />

Phoenix<br />

Orlando<br />

Morelia<br />

Memphis<br />

Managua<br />

Liberia<br />

Houston<br />

Grenada<br />

Detroit<br />

Curacao<br />

Cozumel<br />

Cotonou<br />

Conakry<br />

Chicago<br />

Cayenne<br />

Cartagena<br />

Caracas<br />

Calgary<br />

Edmonton<br />

Bonaire<br />

Bermuda<br />

Atlanta<br />

Algiers<br />

Abidjan<br />

Winnipeg<br />

Saskatoon<br />

Veracruz<br />

Valencia<br />

Teresina<br />

Tenerife<br />

Santiago<br />

San Juan<br />

San Jose<br />

San Jose<br />

Salvador<br />

Aracaju<br />

Portland<br />

New York<br />

Ndjamena<br />

Montreal<br />

Monterey<br />

Monrovia<br />

Mazatlan<br />

Durango<br />

Londrina<br />

Kinshasa<br />

to Honolulu<br />

Gaboro<br />

Freetown<br />

Curitiba<br />

Culiacan<br />

Budap<br />

Brussels<br />

Brasilia<br />

Acapulco<br />

Vancouver Stuttgart<br />

Stockho<br />

Sao Paolo<br />

Nashville<br />

Milwaukee<br />

Marseille<br />

Toulouse<br />

Marrakesh<br />

Las Vegas<br />

Kisanga<br />

Guayaquil<br />

Frankfurt<br />

Karlovy Vary<br />

Fortaleza<br />

Sao Luiz<br />

Chihuahua<br />

Cape Town<br />

Bu<br />

Buc<br />

Barcelona<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Santa Cruz<br />

Sacramento<br />

Punta Cana<br />

Pittsburgh<br />

Paramaribo<br />

Nouakchott<br />

Navegantes<br />

Manchester<br />

Lubumb<br />

Libreville<br />

Hermosillo<br />

Georgetown<br />

Dusseldorf<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Cincinnati<br />

Casablanca<br />

Bridgetown<br />

Saint Lucia<br />

Saint Kitts<br />

Tegucigalpa<br />

San Antonio<br />

Saint<br />

Croix<br />

Panama City<br />

Ouagadougou<br />

Montego<br />

Bay<br />

Minneapolis<br />

Mexico City<br />

Los Angeles<br />

Joao Pessoa<br />

Guadalajara<br />

Brazzaville<br />

Saint Thomas<br />

Villahermosa<br />

San Salvador<br />

Puerto Plata<br />

Porto Seguro<br />

Porto Alegre<br />

Pointe-Noire<br />

Philadelphia<br />

Johanne<br />

Indianapolis<br />

Campo Grande<br />

Buenos Aires<br />

Montevideo<br />

Saint Maarten<br />

Santo Domingo<br />

San Francisco<br />

Iguassu Falls<br />

Florianopolis<br />

Ciudad Juarez<br />

Caxias do Sul<br />

San Pedro Sula<br />

Rio de Janeiro<br />

Port-au-Prince<br />

Pointe-a-Pitre<br />

Fort-de-France<br />

Salt Lake City<br />

Providenciales<br />

Belo Horizonte<br />

Querétaro<br />

Puerto Vallarta<br />

Washington, D.C.<br />

Guatemala<br />

Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo<br />

Grand<br />

Cayman<br />

Santiago de Compostela<br />

Cd del Carmen<br />

Oaxaca<br />

Huatulco<br />

Tapachula<br />

Reynosa<br />

Monterrey<br />

Mexicali<br />

100 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK<br />

WORLD<br />

See p.102<br />

See p.99


Surgut !<br />

! Nizhenvartovsk<br />

! Stockholm<br />

agen<br />

! St. Petersburg<br />

Nizjni Novgorod<br />

!<br />

Kazan<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Moscow Nizhnekamsk<br />

Perm<br />

!<br />

Tyumen<br />

!<br />

Tomsk<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Yekaterinburg<br />

!<br />

Novosibirsk<br />

Krasnojarsk<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Ufa<br />

Chelyabinsk Omsk<br />

Kemerovo<br />

n<br />

y Vary<br />

ague Kiev !<br />

! Kharkiv<br />

!<br />

Samara<br />

! Orenburg<br />

!<br />

Barnaul<br />

! Volgograd<br />

ienna<br />

! Donetsk<br />

!<br />

Budapest<br />

Krasnodar ! Astrakhan<br />

Simferopol<br />

! ! !<br />

! Gelendzhik<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Anapa !<br />

Bucharest<br />

!<br />

Sochi Mineralnye Vody<br />

Bishkek Almaty<br />

!<br />

e<br />

! Tbilisi<br />

Tashkent<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Istanbul<br />

Osh<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Baku<br />

! !<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Samarkand !<br />

Yerevan<br />

Khudzhand<br />

!<br />

! Athens<br />

Ashgabat ! Dushanbe<br />

! Urumqi<br />

li<br />

jamena<br />

! Bangui<br />

! Beirut ! Damascus<br />

! !<br />

Tel Aviv Amman<br />

Cairo ! ! Ovda<br />

! Kuwait<br />

! Sharm el Sheikh<br />

Hurghada !<br />

Dammam ! Bahrain<br />

!<br />

! ! Dubai<br />

Riyadh ! Doha !<br />

!<br />

Abu Dhabi Muscat<br />

! Addis Ababa<br />

Kisangani ! Entebbe<br />

! Kisumu<br />

!<br />

! Kigali<br />

! Nairobi<br />

Bujumbura !<br />

!<br />

!<br />

zzaville<br />

Kilimanjaro<br />

Mombasa<br />

hasa<br />

! Zanzibar<br />

!<br />

Dar es Salaam<br />

Lubumbashi !<br />

! Ndola<br />

Gaborone !<br />

!<br />

e Town<br />

Lusaka !<br />

Harare !<br />

Johannesburg !<br />

! Khartoum<br />

! Juba<br />

Lilongwe<br />

!<br />

! Maputo<br />

! Durban<br />

! Port Elizabeth<br />

! Jeddah<br />

!<br />

Nampula<br />

! Djibouti<br />

! Tehran<br />

! Seychelles<br />

!<br />

Antananarivo<br />

! Mauritius<br />

!<br />

Saint-Denis<br />

! Karachi<br />

Male !<br />

! Islamabad<br />

! Lahore<br />

! Goa<br />

! Delhi<br />

! Mumbai<br />

! Bangalore<br />

! Colombo<br />

Chengdu ! Wuhan !<br />

Bangkok !<br />

Phuket !<br />

Kuala Lumpur !<br />

World routes including SkyTeam and KLM<br />

code-share partners<br />

KLM<br />

Aeroflot<br />

Delta Air Lines<br />

Aeromexico<br />

Etihad Airways<br />

Air Europa<br />

GulfAir<br />

Air France<br />

Kenya Airways<br />

Alaska Airlines<br />

Korean Air<br />

Alitalia<br />

GOL Airlines<br />

China Southern<br />

Malaysia Airlines<br />

Comair Limited<br />

Tarom<br />

COPA Airlines<br />

transavia.com<br />

Czech Airlines<br />

Vietnam Airlines<br />

SkyTeam member<br />

! Irkutsk<br />

Hanoi !<br />

!<br />

Jakarta !<br />

! Ulaanbaatar<br />

Beijing !<br />

! Denpasar<br />

Busan !<br />

! Shanghai<br />

!<br />

Hangzhou<br />

!<br />

Xiamen Taipei<br />

!<br />

! Guangzhou<br />

!<br />

Hong Kong<br />

! Manila<br />

Phnom Penh<br />

! Ho Chi Minh City<br />

! Singapore<br />

! Kota Kinabalu<br />

! Perth<br />

Harbin<br />

!<br />

! Seoul<br />

! Khabarovsk<br />

! Yuzhno Sakhalinsk<br />

! Vladivostok<br />

!<br />

Osaka Tokyo<br />

!<br />

! ! Nagoya<br />

Hiroshima<br />

! Koror<br />

Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky !<br />

! Adelaide<br />

KLM MAPS<br />

See p.104<br />

! Guam<br />

Sydney<br />

!<br />

! Melbourne<br />

to Nadi<br />

! Brisbane<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 101<br />

Auckland<br />

!


Seattle<br />

Eugene<br />

!<br />

Medford<br />

!<br />

Santa Rosa<br />

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA<br />

Portland<br />

!<br />

!<br />

San Francisco<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! ! ! !<br />

!<br />

San Jose<br />

Bellingham<br />

Yakima<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Oakland<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Pasco !<br />

Walla Walla<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Reno<br />

Fresno<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Boise<br />

Santa Barbara ! Burbank<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Ontario<br />

Los Angeles !<br />

! Palm Springs<br />

Santa Ana<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Wenatchee<br />

Redmond<br />

Sacramento<br />

Anchorage<br />

Ontario<br />

Fairbanks<br />

! Fairbanks<br />

!<br />

Spokane<br />

Pullman<br />

Lewiston<br />

Las Vegas<br />

!<br />

San Diego<br />

102 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK<br />

!<br />

Kalispell<br />

!<br />

Missoula<br />

Gustavus<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Phoenix<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Sitka<br />

!<br />

Helena<br />

!<br />

Tucson<br />

!<br />

Great Falls<br />

Bozeman<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Salt Lake City<br />

!<br />

Jackson<br />

Juneau<br />

Ketchikan<br />

Billings<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Hayden<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Montrose<br />

Albuquerque<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Vail<br />

El Paso<br />

Rapid City<br />

!<br />

Denver<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Amarillo<br />

Lubbock<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Bismarck<br />

Colorado Springs<br />

Kauai<br />

!<br />

Minot<br />

!<br />

Honolulu<br />

Kahului<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Devils Lake Thie<br />

! e<br />

!<br />

Grand Forks<br />

!<br />

!<br />

San Antonio<br />

!Kona Kona<br />

!<br />

Jamestown<br />

!<br />

Austin<br />

!<br />

McAllen<br />

Sioux Falls<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

n<br />

MinnM<br />

!<br />

Sioux City<br />

!<br />

y<br />

For<br />

a<br />

!<br />

Kansas K<br />

!<br />

Fargo<br />

!<br />

Omaha<br />

Lincoln !<br />

Wichita<br />

Oklahoma City<br />

Aberdeen<br />

Dallas<br />

Tulsa<br />

!<br />

!<br />

u<br />

Fort S<br />

Sh<br />

Houstono<br />

Freeport r


!<br />

International Falls<br />

Thief River Falls<br />

!<br />

Forks<br />

argo !<br />

! Bemidji !<br />

Hibbing<br />

Grand Rapids<br />

!<br />

Duluth<br />

Brainerd<br />

!<br />

! Marquette<br />

Iron Mountain<br />

!<br />

Sault Ste. Marie<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Rhinelander !<br />

!<br />

Escanaba<br />

Pellston<br />

Alpena<br />

!<br />

inneapolis !<br />

Wau !<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Green Bay<br />

Bangor<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Traverse City<br />

Burlington<br />

Rochester !<br />

Appleton<br />

! Watertown<br />

! La Crosse<br />

!<br />

Saginaw<br />

Portland<br />

!<br />

Milwaukee<br />

Rochester<br />

Mason City !<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Madison<br />

Flint<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Syracuse<br />

! Manchester<br />

!<br />

Grand Rapids<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Buffalo<br />

Albany<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Lansing<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Fort Dodge Waterloo<br />

Kalamazoo !<br />

! Detroit<br />

! Erie Ithaca Binghamton<br />

Boston<br />

!<br />

!<br />

! Cedar Rapids<br />

! South Bend<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Elmira<br />

Hartford<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

ha<br />

Moline<br />

Chicago<br />

Newburgh<br />

Providence<br />

Toledo Cleveland<br />

! Des Moines<br />

Wilkes Barre!<br />

!<br />

Westchester County<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Akron<br />

!<br />

Peoria ! Bloomington Fort Wayne<br />

State College<br />

Allentown !<br />

!<br />

New York<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Champaign<br />

Dayton ! Columbus Pittsburgh Harrisburg<br />

!<br />

Philadelphia<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Indianapolis<br />

!<br />

Baltimore<br />

ansas City ! Columbia<br />

! Cincinnati<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Washington D.C.<br />

!<br />

!<br />

St. Louis<br />

Louisville Huntington<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Charleston<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Charlottesville<br />

Evansville<br />

Lexington<br />

Lynchburg<br />

!<br />

Richmond<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Springfield<br />

Roanoke<br />

Newport News<br />

! !<br />

!<br />

Nashville<br />

Bristol<br />

Norfolk<br />

!<br />

!<br />

lsa<br />

Fayetteville<br />

Greensboro<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Knoxville !<br />

Asheville<br />

!<br />

Raleigh<br />

!<br />

Fort Smith !<br />

Memphis<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Chattanooga Charlotte Fayetteville<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Huntsville<br />

New Bern<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Little Rock<br />

Muscle Shoals<br />

Greenville<br />

Jacksonville<br />

Greenville !<br />

! Tupelo<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Columbus Birmingham<br />

!<br />

Atlanta<br />

!<br />

Columbia<br />

!<br />

Wilmington<br />

!<br />

Myrtle Beach<br />

!<br />

Monroe<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Shreveport<br />

Meridian<br />

Columbus<br />

Charleston<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Jackson Montgomery<br />

!<br />

Albany<br />

Savannah<br />

! Laurel<br />

!<br />

Alexandria !<br />

Dothan !<br />

!<br />

Valdosta Brunswick<br />

Mobile<br />

!<br />

Baton Rouge<br />

!<br />

Valparaiso<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Lafayette !<br />

!<br />

!<br />

uston<br />

Gulfport Pensacola<br />

Jacksonville<br />

Tallahassee<br />

!<br />

New Orleans<br />

Panama City<br />

!<br />

Gainesville<br />

!<br />

Daytona Beach<br />

eeport !<br />

! Orlando<br />

!<br />

Tampa !<br />

Melbourne<br />

Sarasota<br />

!<br />

Ft. Myers<br />

Key West<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

West Palm Beach<br />

Fort Lauderdale<br />

Miami<br />

Nassau<br />

!<br />

Delta Air Lines<br />

and Delta Connection<br />

Horizon Air Industries<br />

SkyTeam member<br />

KLM MAPS<br />

USA routes including SkyTeam<br />

and KLM code-share partners<br />

KLM (from Amsterdam)<br />

Alaska Airlines<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 103


!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

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!<br />

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!<br />

Taichung<br />

Hue<br />

Vinh<br />

Wuxi<br />

Yiwu<br />

Trat<br />

Xian<br />

Oita<br />

Kuqa<br />

Jeju<br />

Hami<br />

Cebu<br />

Aksu<br />

Qiemo<br />

Heihe<br />

Tunxi<br />

Lhasa<br />

Tokyo<br />

Yanji<br />

Wuhan<br />

Seoul<br />

Sanya<br />

Osaka<br />

Linyi<br />

Korla<br />

Jinan<br />

Hotan<br />

Hefei<br />

Hanoi<br />

Enshi<br />

Dhaka<br />

Dalat<br />

Daegu<br />

Busan<br />

Altay<br />

Yangon<br />

Wuzhou<br />

Weihai<br />

Penang<br />

Langkawi<br />

Kuala Lampur<br />

Singapore<br />

Jining<br />

Toyama<br />

Xuzhou<br />

Pleiku<br />

Yantai<br />

Sendai<br />

Hailar<br />

Zhuhai<br />

Yining<br />

Xining<br />

Xiamen<br />

Urumqi<br />

Taipei<br />

Phuket<br />

Ningbo<br />

Nagoya<br />

Manila<br />

Luzhou<br />

Hohhot<br />

Harbin<br />

Handan<br />

Haikou<br />

Guilin<br />

Fuzhou<br />

Dayong<br />

Datong<br />

Daqing<br />

Dalian<br />

Ca Mau<br />

Beihai<br />

Baotou<br />

Aomori<br />

Anshan<br />

Lijiang<br />

Tuy Hoa<br />

Yichang<br />

Tongren<br />

Liuzhou<br />

Wenzhou<br />

Tianjin<br />

Taiyuan<br />

Shantou<br />

Sapporo<br />

Qiqihar<br />

Qingdao<br />

Okayama<br />

Niigata<br />

Nanyang<br />

Nantong<br />

Nanning<br />

Nanjing<br />

Luoyang<br />

Lanzhou<br />

Kunming<br />

Komatsu<br />

Karamay<br />

Jiamusi<br />

Guiyang<br />

Ganzhou<br />

Fukuoka<br />

Dandong<br />

Da Nang<br />

Con Dao<br />

Chifeng<br />

Chengdu<br />

Changde<br />

Can Tho<br />

Beijing<br />

Baoshan<br />

Bangkok<br />

Baishan<br />

Shizuoka<br />

Rach Gia<br />

Qui Nhon<br />

Xiangfan<br />

Mianyang<br />

Mei Xian<br />

Jiujiang<br />

Huangyan<br />

Song Pan<br />

Huai Hua<br />

Yinchuan<br />

Yancheng<br />

Wuyishan<br />

Shenzhen<br />

Shenyang<br />

Shanghai<br />

Phu Quoc<br />

Nanchong<br />

Nanchang<br />

Nagasaki<br />

Jinjiang<br />

Jinghong<br />

Hangzhou<br />

Hakodate<br />

Haiphong<br />

Dunhuang<br />

Dong Hoi<br />

Cheongju<br />

Changzhi<br />

Changsha<br />

Yun Cheng<br />

Kaohsiung<br />

Vientiane<br />

Hiroshima<br />

Nha Trang<br />

Zhanjiang<br />

Siem Reap<br />

Zhengzhou<br />

Sukhothai<br />

Koh Samui<br />

Kathmandu<br />

Kagoshima<br />

Hong Kong<br />

Guangzhou<br />

Dongsheng<br />

Dali City<br />

Chongqing<br />

Changzhou<br />

Changchun<br />

Phnom Penh<br />

Mudanjiang<br />

Chiang Mai<br />

Banmethuot<br />

Liping City<br />

Mohe County<br />

Lianyungang<br />

Tamky-Chulai<br />

Shijiazhuang<br />

Luang Prabang<br />

Kota Kinabalu<br />

Dien Bien Phu<br />

Ho Chi Minh City<br />

Taichung<br />

Koror<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

!<br />

Kuala Lampur<br />

Singapore<br />

Denpasar<br />

Jakarta<br />

KLM MAPS<br />

ASIA<br />

Sichuan Airlines<br />

Korean Air<br />

Malaysia Airlines<br />

Vietnam Airlines<br />

China Southern<br />

Asian routes including SkyTeam<br />

and KLM code-share partners<br />

KLM (from Amsterdam)<br />

Bangkok Airlines<br />

Garuda<br />

SkyTeam member


Amsterdam / Schiphol Airport, The Netherlands<br />

Gates B<br />

Gates C<br />

B34 B30 B26 B22 B18<br />

B36 B32 B28 B24 B20 B16 B14 to B1 - B8<br />

B35 B31 B27 B23 B17 B15 B13<br />

Gates D<br />

Paris / Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2, France<br />

Terminal 2G<br />

Gates G21 - G40<br />

D42<br />

D44D72<br />

D46D74<br />

D48D76<br />

D52 D78<br />

D54D82<br />

5<br />

D56D84<br />

D47<br />

D86<br />

D49 D77<br />

D51 D79<br />

D53 D81<br />

D55 D83<br />

D57D85<br />

D87<br />

Gates<br />

M21 - M50<br />

D41<br />

D71<br />

D43<br />

D73<br />

Gates<br />

L21 - L53<br />

Lounge<br />

2<br />

E2<br />

Gates E<br />

E4 E3<br />

E6 E5<br />

E8<br />

E7<br />

E15 E9<br />

E18 E17<br />

E20<br />

E22<br />

E24<br />

E19<br />

Terminal 2E / Gates K21 - K51<br />

Terminal 2F<br />

Gates F21 - F56<br />

Holland Boulevard<br />

F4<br />

F3<br />

F6<br />

Gates F<br />

Gates M<br />

C14<br />

C16<br />

C12<br />

C10<br />

C8 C6 C4<br />

C7 C5<br />

D14 D12<br />

D16 D68<br />

D18<br />

D22<br />

D24<br />

D26<br />

D28<br />

D31<br />

D10<br />

D66<br />

D4<br />

D8 D62<br />

D64<br />

D3<br />

D5 D59<br />

D7 D61<br />

D63<br />

D29D27D25D23D21<br />

M4 H5<br />

C15 - C18<br />

to C21 - C26<br />

4<br />

4<br />

M3<br />

M2<br />

4 H4<br />

H3<br />

C13<br />

C11<br />

C9<br />

T3<br />

T2<br />

Schiphol Plaza<br />

M1 H2<br />

H1<br />

Lounge<br />

1<br />

8<br />

3<br />

Lounge<br />

3<br />

4<br />

G11-16<br />

6<br />

G3<br />

T9<br />

5<br />

D2<br />

D60<br />

3<br />

T5 T4<br />

12<br />

2<br />

1<br />

3<br />

F2<br />

2<br />

1<br />

Lounge<br />

3<br />

3<br />

G2<br />

G5<br />

3<br />

G4<br />

Schengen<br />

Gates B-C, D 59-87, M<br />

T Transfer desk<br />

T Transfer desk<br />

Self-service transfer<br />

Self-service transfer<br />

KLM Crown Lounge<br />

KLM Crown Lounge<br />

4<br />

D87<br />

Shuttle buses<br />

inside customs<br />

Shuttle buses<br />

outside customs<br />

T6<br />

Flights operated by KLM, Air<br />

France and other members<br />

of the SkyTeam alliance<br />

arrive and depart from the<br />

following locations within<br />

Terminal 2.<br />

7<br />

Walking route<br />

inside customs<br />

Walking route<br />

outside customs<br />

AMSTERDAM & PARIS AIRPORT HUB GATES<br />

KLM<br />

Crown<br />

Lounge<br />

25<br />

Gates D<br />

2C: Aerofl ot, Kenyan<br />

Airways, MEA & Saudia<br />

2D: Air Europa & Czech<br />

Airlines<br />

2E: Aeromexico, Air France<br />

(non-Shengen fl ights),<br />

P X<br />

P R<br />

3<br />

F8<br />

Train station<br />

Thalys/RER/TGV<br />

F5<br />

F9<br />

Automatic shuttles<br />

Parking<br />

F7<br />

M6<br />

M7<br />

M5 H6<br />

Top Level<br />

Second floor<br />

H7<br />

Gates H<br />

G7<br />

G6<br />

Terminal 2C<br />

Gates C80 - C91<br />

G9<br />

Terminal 2D<br />

Gates D53 - D78<br />

G8<br />

Gates G<br />

KLM Crown Lounge<br />

52<br />

China Eastern, China<br />

Southern, Delta, Korean<br />

Air, Tarom & Vietnam<br />

Airlines<br />

2F: Air France (Shengen<br />

fl ights), Alitalia & KLM<br />

KLM fl ights arrive at and<br />

depart from gates B, C, D, E, F.<br />

Air France and Alitalia<br />

fl ights arrive at and depart<br />

from gates B and C.<br />

Korean Air fl ights arrive at<br />

and depart from gate G.<br />

Delta fl ights arrive at and<br />

depart from gate E.<br />

Czech Airlines fl ights arrive<br />

at and depart from gate D.<br />

Aerofl ot fl ights arrive at and<br />

depart from gates B and G.<br />

KLM passengers travelling to<br />

Antwerp (Thalys) and<br />

Rotterdam (NS): Please<br />

collect your luggage in<br />

Amsterdam and exchange<br />

your KLM (e-)ticket for a<br />

Thalys or NS ticket at the<br />

Netherlands Railways<br />

(NS ) desk at Schiphol<br />

Plaza (just past immigration).<br />

Passengers with access<br />

to KLM’s Crown Lounges<br />

who are arriving on<br />

intercontinental fl ights and<br />

transferring to European<br />

(Schengen) fl ights are<br />

kindly advised to use Crown<br />

Lounge 25, located near the<br />

Schengen gates and behind<br />

passport control.<br />

2G: Air France (Shengen<br />

commuter fl ights)<br />

Please consult onscreen<br />

information in the terminals<br />

for the most up-to-date<br />

gate information.<br />

Terminal 2A<br />

Gates A37 - A51<br />

Terminal 2B<br />

Gates B21 - B33<br />

PX Terminal 3 PR Terminal 1<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 107


Hand baggage rules at EU airports<br />

To increase passenger safety, security rules for hand luggage are in place for all fl ights, in accordance with<br />

European Union regulations. When passing through security control, you will be required to present liquids, gels,<br />

pastes, lotions and aerosols separately, in individual containers of not more than 100ml, packaged in a resealable,<br />

transparent plastic bag (maximum volume 1 litre, 1 bag per person).<br />

Airport shopping<br />

in the EU<br />

Within the European Union, liquids<br />

and gels that you purchase after<br />

passing through passport control<br />

or on board the aircraft will be<br />

packaged and sealed for you,<br />

together with the receipt. The<br />

unbroken seal is valid for 24 hours.<br />

Airport shopping<br />

outside the EU<br />

If you buy liquids or gels at a<br />

non-EU airport and change planes at<br />

an EU airport, your purchases will be<br />

confi scated at the EU airport security<br />

check. This can also happen for<br />

purchases you make on board an<br />

aircraft operated by an airline from<br />

a non-EU country. For further<br />

information, visit klm.com.<br />

KLM AMSTERDAM MAP<br />

Animal products<br />

To prevent the spread of animal<br />

diseases, you are prohibited from<br />

entering the EU with meat, meat<br />

products, milk and milk products. Small<br />

quantities for personal use are<br />

permitted on arrival from Andorra, the<br />

Faroe Islands, Greenland, Iceland,<br />

Liechtenstein, Norway, San Marino and<br />

Switzerland. For further information,<br />

visit europa.eu.<br />

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 109


KLM FIT FOR FLYING<br />

Our handy hints can help you to stay feeling great both during and after the<br />

fl ight. Exercises should be performed slowly with steady, even breathing<br />

10 TIMES 15 TIMES 30 TIMES 5 TIMES 10 TIMES 15 TIMES<br />

Feet<br />

With your heels on<br />

the fl oor, stretch your<br />

toes upwards. Then,<br />

keeping your toes on<br />

the fl oor, stretch your<br />

heel upwards.<br />

Relax whilst fl ying<br />

Statistics show that fl ying is much safer<br />

than many situations in our daily lives<br />

The crew in control of the plane are<br />

highly trained and experienced<br />

KLM aircraft are maintained and designed<br />

to withstand all sorts of turbulence<br />

Try to relax — breathe in deeply through<br />

your nose, hold for three seconds and<br />

exhale slowly<br />

KLM partner, VALK Foundation, can<br />

offer support to people with a fear<br />

of fl ying. Visit valk.org or<br />

call +31 71 5273733<br />

HOUSE RULES<br />

Rotate your foot fi rst<br />

in one direction and<br />

then the other.<br />

All electronic devices must<br />

be turned off completely whilst<br />

walking to/from the aircraft, and<br />

during taxiing, take-off<br />

and landing.<br />

The only electronic devices<br />

which may be used during<br />

the fl ight and ground<br />

stop are:<br />

• Mobile phones, PDAs or<br />

other devices with a ’fl ight’<br />

mode or ‘fl ight safe’ setting.<br />

This must be activated<br />

110 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK<br />

Ankles Knees Shoulders Legs Back and arms<br />

Raise your leg,<br />

tensing the muscles<br />

of your thigh.<br />

During the fl ight<br />

With your hands<br />

on your thighs, rotate<br />

your shoulders in a<br />

circular motion.<br />

Ear pain? Pinch your nose shut,<br />

close your mouth and swallow or<br />

blow out against your closed mouth.<br />

Alternatively, chew gum<br />

Stimulate your circulation by<br />

walking around in the cabin<br />

and stretching<br />

Avoid sitting with your legs crossed<br />

as this restricts circulation<br />

Taking your shoes off might be<br />

more comfortable<br />

Drink plenty of water and not too<br />

much alcohol<br />

before the aircraft<br />

doors are closed.<br />

• Laptops, if the<br />

WLAN/WiFi is<br />

turned off.<br />

• Electronic games,<br />

MP3, DVD and<br />

CD players.<br />

Cabin crew can request all<br />

electronic devices to be switched<br />

off completely if circumstances<br />

so dictate.<br />

Bend forward slightly.<br />

Wrap your hands<br />

around your knee<br />

and raise it to your<br />

chest. Hold for 15<br />

seconds.<br />

Reducing jetlag<br />

Place both feet<br />

fl at on the ground<br />

and hold in your<br />

stomach. Bend<br />

forward, moving<br />

your hands down<br />

your legs.<br />

Start adjusting your body clock<br />

to the time zone of your<br />

destination the night before departure<br />

by going to bed earlier or later<br />

Don’t eat too heavily the night<br />

before you leave, or drink too<br />

much alcohol<br />

Eat protein-rich meals at times<br />

that are normal for your new<br />

time zone<br />

At your destination, take light<br />

exercise, such as a walk<br />

Spend at least 30 minutes in daylight<br />

Drinks are served one<br />

at a time to passengers<br />

occupying their assigned<br />

seats. For safety reasons,<br />

the purser may close the bar.<br />

Passengers are not permitted to<br />

drink alcoholic beverages brought<br />

on board with them or<br />

purchased on board.<br />

Smoking, including<br />

artifi cial cigarettes, such as<br />

‘SuperSmokers’, is strictly forbidden<br />

at all times on KLM fl ights.


Plaats 26, 2513 AE The Hague,<br />

Tel. (070) 346 96 01, Fax (070) 356 33 54,<br />

E-mail: juwelier@steltman.nl, www.steltman.nl<br />

Thanks to your purchase Steltman - in cooperation with<br />

African Parks - helps maintain nature reserves.<br />

TAX FREE SHOPPING<br />

Non-EU residents enjoy a VAT refund on purchases made at Steltman.<br />

Please ask for the conditions.<br />

www.safaribysteltman.com<br />

Noordeinde 15, 2514 GB The Hague,<br />

Tel. (070) 365 94 33, Fax (070) 365 86 08,<br />

E-mail: watches@steltman.nl, www.steltman.nl


TISSOT LE LOCLE<br />

AUTOMATIC<br />

SWISS WATCHES TO DREAM OF SINCE 1853<br />

Get in touch at www.tissot.ch

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