february-2011

Photos: Photolibrary (above left); Lonely Planet Images (above right)
Local artists such as Thanat
Sompongphanich have embraced the area,
creating eclectic spaces such as Romanee@9,
an art gallery doubling as a cosy bar with a
guesthouse upstairs. Across the way you’ll
fi nd Glastnöst, an eclectic tea house and bar
which appears to have been furnished with the
contents of an eccentric explorer’s trunk.
Bookhemian serves icy-cold fruit frappés in
an art space where the items for sale resemble
a funky art installation. Keen photographers
will appreciate the collection of vintage
cameras and associated memorabilia; it’s also
a good spot to stock up on arty postcards.
When hunger strikes, head to China Inn and
dine on authentic Thai cuisine surrounded
by antiquities.
Old Phuket is still evolving which makes it
an especially exciting place to visit. “Upstairs
bars in the shophouses are the latest thing,”
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT: Have
Pansea Beach to
yourself; wander in
old Phuket; braiding
on Kamala Beach;
mementos from
Bookhemian
explains Li Ann Loo, who works at the nearby
Westin and lives in Old Phuket near Soi
Romanee. Late in the evening, soft lights
and cool jazz add a touch of romance to this
historic area, where the mood changes yet
again after the sun goes down.
Many local favourites around Phuket
remain relatively unknown to visitors, such
as laid-back Nai Han Beach, where you’ll
generally fi nd more Thais than tourists.
During winter, the calm waters are ideal for
swimming, particularly for children, although
it’s a diff erent story during the monsoon when
monster waves pound the shore. It’s wise
to pre-book a room as accommodation in
this area is limited and top spots such as the
cheerful, well-priced All Seasons fi ll up fast.
Ten minutes from Nai Han is Rawai Beach,
another local haunt where people fl ock to eat
rather than swim. Surrounded by Thai fi shing
Three Times
the Romance
ANANTARA
PHUKET
VILLAS
Located on
the untouched
northwest coast
near Sirinath
National Park, each
villa comes with
a plunge pool and
massive outdoor
tub sprinkled
with orchids
and fragrant frangipani. King-sized daybeds
surround the main pool, and peaceful Mai
Khao Beach, the longest stretch of sand in
Phuket, is just a few steps away. Check in on
a Friday to experience Bond on the Beach, an
intimate movie experience which comes with
complimentary popcorn and a soundtrack
enhanced by the sound of crashing waves.
OUT ON THE WATER
Charter a private yacht or longtail and head
south, far away from the popular day-trip
destinations. Anchor in one of the secluded
bays off a tiny island like rugged Racha Noi
and you’ll likely have the place to yourself for
most of the day (and night if you want to stay
and watch the sun rise).
PANSEA BEACH
Hard to fi nd and even harder to leave, Pansea
Beach is right next to bustling Surin Beach,
but few people know it exists. Pansea looks
like something from a picture postcard, a
white sandy crescent bookended by boulderstrewn
headlands with water so clear you
can see the fi sh. Th is exquisite spot feels like
yours alone and most of the time it is as the
only access is via a private road belonging to a
couple of resorts: the pricey Amanpuri and far
more aff ordable Surin Phuket. Do whatever
it takes to treat yourself to a night here, book
the cheapest room if you have to. Trust me,
you’ll spend all your time at the beach.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2011 55