january-2010

Holland Herald 

JANUARY 2010 YOUR COPY TO KEEP 

THE wild ISSUE

WWW.VIKTOR-ROLF.COM

www.ey.nl 

WHO CAN TURN 

SILVER INTO GOLD? 

You won’t see him at the starting line but he plays a key role 

in determining the result. An Olympic coach ensures that 

athletes perform to the best of their ability. Pushing the athlete 

to his limits time after time. Using expertise and technique to 

maximize potential. Ernst & Young knows how very important 

that is. Although their work might go unnoticed, the role of 

coach is of inestimable value. 

The coach deserves a medal too

Cover: Superstock/Exotic Landscape With Monkeys And A Parrot (1908) by Henri Rousseau (1844-1910) Private Collection. 

This page: Stuart Westmorland/Corbis 


wild 

Self-taught artist Henri 

Rousseau, whose painting 

Exotic Landscape With Monkeys 

And A Parrot (1908) is shown 

on this month’s cover, never 

actually travelled to the jungle 

like the one featured on this 

page. His paintings, which were 

in the naïve style, were purely 

a work of his vivid imagination. 

And in this issue, we hope to 

get your imagination fired up 

with the Wild Files, a trip to 

China’s Western Sichuan region, 

along with some luxury hotels 

from around the globe that have 

wilderness ready and waiting 

on their doorstep.

Chilling out 

60 

32 

Dutch photographer Jan Vermeer 

captures some of the world’s 

harshest and most beautiful 

landscapes in his new book 

Breaking Ice. Take a look at a 

preview of his latest work 

The urban jungle 

Cities have always been magnets for 

people, but now it seems that wildlife 

is starting to make its way into them. 

Annemarie Hoeve investigates 

Facts and fi gures 

Bite-sized info 

Gadgets 

All the coolest kit 

The wild fi les 

Art and fashion gone wild 

Scene stealers 

Hotels with stunning surrounds 

THE WILD ISSUE Contents 

44 

Sichuan highlights 

Daniel Allen takes us on a journey through 

the Western Sichuan region of China, from 

the cities of Chengdu and Kangding, into 

the wild and wonderful countryside that 

surrounds them 

11 

17 

21 

28 

40 

65 

69 

80 

56 

Christiane calling 

For more than 20 years, CNN’s Christiane 

Amanpour has reported from some of 

the world’s most troubled spots. She 

talks about her adventures and her 

plans for the future 

Carry on camping 

A John Burnett adventure 

Updates 

What’s on in The Netherlands 

Touchdowns 

The best city guides 

Photo competition 

Enter your travel photos 

WILD Holland Herald 7

Contents THE WILD ISSUE 

KLM Travellers Check 

87 

88 

91 

93 

94 

95 

96 

Destination Nature 

Climate control in the Arctic 

KLM news 

All the latest information 

People & planet 

Embracing biodiversity 

Flying Blue news + 

entertainment 

Frequent fl yers and what’s on 

KLM.com 

KLM’s Internet services 

Partners 

Our companion companies 

Plane facts 

KLM’s fl eet in focus 

Shopping 

Enjoy our wide selection 

of tax-free products, 107* 

on intercontinental and 

selected European fl ights 

8 Holland Herald WILD 

98 

104 

105 

106 

Route maps 

The world at your fi ngertips 

Airport hubs 

Finding your way 

Fit for fl ying 

Tips and exercises 

Amsterdam map 

Around town 

*The Shopping section is not included in Holland Herald on most short-haul fl ights 


www.hollandherald.nl 

Volume 46 Number 1 

January 2010 

Published by Ink, London, UK 

Editorial by MediaPartners Group, 

Amstelveen, The Netherlands 

EDITORIAL 

Editor-in-Chief Mike Cooper 

Project Editor Ruth Lindsay 

Art Director Esther Tji 

Desk Editor Brian Jones 

Concept Lava, Amsterdam 

Designer Allan Grotjohann 

Photo Editor Sandra de Cocq 

Contributors Daniel Allen, John Burnett, Matt 

Farquharson, Pip Farquharson, Annemarie 

Hoeve, Jane Szita, Jan Vermeer 

MediaPartners Group 

PO Box 2215 

1180EE Amstelveen 

The Netherlands 

Editorial inquiries +31(0)20 5473600 

mike.cooper@mediapartners.nl 

PUBLISHER 

Chief Executive Jeffrey O’Rourke 

Executive Creative Director Michael Keating 

Chief Operating Officer Hugh Godsal 

Publishing Director Simon Leslie 

Production Manager Antonia Ferraro 

Production Controller Helen Grimley 

Holland Herald is published on behalf of 

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines by Ink Publishing 

141-143 Shoreditch High Street, 

London E1 6JE, United Kingdom 

Advertising: +44(0)20 7613 6947 

Info@ink-publishing.com 

ADVERTISING 

Publisher Kevin Rolfe 

+44(0)20 7613 8772 

European sales team 

David Levy, Edward Sullivan-Pond, 

Mark Austen, Robert Fulwell. 

Benelux territories Giovanni Angiolini 

+31(0)6 2223 8420 (The Netherlands) 

Shopping Pages Design and Concept 

Eline Gambino-Lebens 

Shopping Photography/Production Lukkien 

KLM COORDINATION 

Frederic van Nierop 

Lithography by Grafimedia Amsterdam 

Printed by Roularta Printing 

ISSN 0018-3563 

Reproduction without written per mission is prohibited. 

The publisher accepts no responsibility for un solicited 

material. The publisher has made every effort to arrange 

copyright in accordance with existing legislation. Those 

who feel that rights may apply to them can, in spite of 

this, contact the publisher. 

SCS-COC-00812

JEWELLERY 

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specialist. The stunning collection of handmade jewellery, 

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Tel. (070) 346 96 01, Fax (070) 356 33 54, 

E-mail: juwelier@steltman.nl, www.steltman.nl 

Experience Steltman 

 

 

 

 

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high-end watches. As the offi cial dealer for the most famous 

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136 kilos of love 

Celebrities are known for their eccentric habits, and this also 

applies to their taste in pets. Boxer Mike Tyson had a pet tiger, 

actor George Clooney shared his home for 18 years with a 

136-kilogram, pot-bellied pig called Max, and Paris Hilton had a 

pet kinkajou (a type of rainforest raccoon). 

1.7billion 

banked 

Seeds of 24,200 plant 

species are being stored 

as part of the Millennium 

Seed Bank Partnership at 

London’s Kew Gardens. 

With around 300,000 

species on the planet, 

the collection represents 

almost 10% of the world’s 

wild plants. The 1.7 

billion seeds are kept in 

underground vaults at -20°C 

for possible future use. 

Wild facts & figures 

80% original 

Madagascar is famous for its wildlife. Over 80% of its fl ora and 

fauna is unique to the island. It is home to giant jumping rats, fossas 

(which look like a cross between a dog and a cat), over 72 types 

of lemurs, including Madame Berthe’s mouse lemur, which is the 

world’s smallest primate and weighs in at only 30 grams. 

ON THE 

MOVE 

1.5MILLION 

Every year, 1.5 million wildebeest 

migrate across 1,500 kilometres 

of the African plains in search 

of greener pastures. It is 

considered one of the most 

astounding wildlife spectacles 

on the planet. 

14,000 ANIMALS 

The Zoologischer Garten in Berlin is home to one of the 

most comprehensive collections of animals in the world. 

The zoo has 14,000 animals and receives around three 

million visitors each year. 

WILD Holland Herald 11 

Words: Annemarie Hoeve. Photos: Hollandse Hoogte/Nature Picture Library


No 1. wild man 

In a recent Rhythm magazine 


#1MOST 

DANGEROUS 

1,450 KPH WINDS 

poll, readers were invited to 

vote for the wildest drummer 

in rock history. Top of the 

list was Keith Moon, former 

drummer with The Who, 

and who died in 1978. John 

Bonham of Led Zeppelin, 

Tommy Lee of Motley Crue, 

Bill Ward of Black Sabbath 

and Ringo Starr of The 

Beatles were all in the top 10. 

Wild animals such as lions 

and sharks may top the 

list of animals we fear, but 

the mosquito is the world’s 

most dangerous creature. 

This tiny killer is responsible 

for some two million deaths 

per year by transmitting 

diseases such as malaria. 

Neptune is the pla planet with the wildest weather in our solar 

system, with winds of almost 1,450 kilometres per hour raging 

across across its equator equator. When NASA’s Voyager 2 probe passed by 

in 1989, it registered registere a storm system as big as the Earth. 

113 

The secret to 

In July 2009, Henry Allingham, 

the oldest surviving veteran 

of the First World War, died 

aged 113. He was also briefl y 

the world’s oldest man. When 

asked about the secret 

to a long life, he replied: 

“Cigarettes, whisky and 

wild, wild women”. 

12 days in 

the bush 

Last summer, British 

backpacker Jamie Neale 

got lost while hiking in 

Australia’s Blue Mountains. 

Despite setting off with just 

two bread rolls and a bottle 

of water, he survived for 12 

days. This was partly due to 

his fi nal pre-trek feast, which 

had included several pizzas. 

Photos: Getty Images


400,000 

COUPLES 

500 

best 

songs 

14 Ho Hol Holland ol ollan lan la lan la lan la lan la an a an d dH d Herald H HHera 

era er era er era er era eera er era er era e eera e era eerald ra r a ld WILD WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WI WIL WILD I IL I IL I IL I IL I 

Scientists can now fi nd 

emperor penguin colonies 

from space, by locating the 

stains where they relieved 

themselves. Researchers for 

the British Antarctic Survey 

have counted 38 colonies this 

way, believed to amount to up 

to 400,000 breeding pairs. 

100,000 going for gold 

American writer Jack London’s 1903 novel Call Of The 

Wild is written from the perspective of a sled 

dog during the Klondike Gold Rush. At the 

height of the stampede, over 100,000 00 

prospectors went to the frozen 

Canadian wilderness in search of gold. d. 

Biker anthem Born to be Wild 

by Steppenwolf ranks among 

Rolling Stone magazine’s top 

500 songs ever. Heavy metal 

rocker Ozzy Osbourne covered 

it in a duet with Miss Piggy 

for the Kermit Unplugged 

album in 1994. 

100% bare 

German campsite manager, Heinz Ludwig, is trying to establish 

Germany’s fi rst offi cial rambler’s footpath for nudists. The 

proposed 18-kilometre track, complete with nudist warning 

sign, is due to open next spring in the Harz mountain range. 

46 

still pristine 

Excluding Exclu urban centres, 

wilderness wilde areas cover 46% of 

the EEarth’s 

land surface, but 

are o 

occupied by just 2.4% of 

the population, p 

according to 

a Conservation Co 

International 

study. study The Amazon rainforest 

is one on of the world’s largest 

areas of wilderness, covering 

over 

one billion acres. 

19 MILLION AND COUNTING 

First ppublished 

in 1963, Maurice Sendak’s Where the Wild Things 

Are features fe in the Publishers Weekly top 100 list of best-selling 

children’s childr books of all time. The book has sold over 19 million copies 

worldwide world as of 2008. In 2009, it was also adapted for the big screen 

in a fi 

lm directed by Spike Jonze. See our Wild Gadgets (page 17) for 

details detail of where to get action fi gures of the characters. 

Photos: Hollandse Hoogte/Rex

JACOB JENSEN is a trademark of JACOB JENSEN HOLDING ApS and is used under license by JACOB JENSEN BRAND ApS. 

The Sapphire Series. 

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of the processed surfaces of 

a jewel and the refl ection of 

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1 

2 

4 

Wild gadgets 

1 Giorgio Armani Attitude This enticing fragrance is designed to be elegant, masculine and sensual. €50* 2 Where the Wild Things 

Are These cool action fi gures are based on characters from the book and recently released fi lm version of Where the Wild Things Are, and 

should keep both adults and kids happy. €65 www.colette.fr 3 Surfanic Afro Jacket The seams on this funky jacket are fully sealed and 

the material is waterproof and breathable, so you’ll be ready to hit the slopes in style. From €145 www.surfanic.com 4 2010 Confederate 

Fighter Combat This superb piece of motorcycle engineering should help satisfy your road trip fantasies. €51,000 www.confederate.com 

*Giorgio Armani Attitude is available on board (selected fl ights). See the Infl ight Boutique at the back of the magazine for details. 

3 


Wild gadgets 

1 

1 Britto Luggage Collection Designed by Brazilian pop culture artist Romero Rome me mero ro Bri BBritto, tto , t tthis 

this his lu lugga luggage gga ge wil will il l e eensu 

ensure nsu nsure su re yo you st s st stand an and an a out ou out from the 

crowd crowd. 

From m €350 www.heysusa.com 2 Daryl van Wouw Leggings Make a statement stat ateme eme em nt n with wit w hD h hD h Dutch D utc utch h designer desi d esi esign gn gne gner Daryl Dary ryl l van v van 

Wouw’s colourful leggings. leggin 

From m €35 www.darylvanwouw.com 3 Phyto-Purifi cation Bathroom This is sonly only o a concept, but b designers Alban Alb lb lban le Henry, Olivier Olivierr 

Pigasse, Pigas 

Vincent cent Vandenbrouck and Jun Yasumoto plan to use a natural fi ltering principle called phyto-purifi cation, so so that that your your bathroom bathroom beco becomes 

a mini-ecosystem by recycling and regenerating waste water. Not yet for sale www.junyasumoto.com 4 Anthony Roussel Wood 

Jewellery This intricate, sculptural jewellery is inspired by the epic sweep of the British coastline and the designer’s passion for modern 

architecture. From €200 www.anthonyroussel.com 


3 

2 

4 

Photography for Phyto-Purifi cation Bathroom: www.junyasumoto.comm

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Royal Class 444 

Royal Class, 

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ROYAL CLASS COLLECTION BY SWISS SENSE 

Royal Class 555 

The Royal Class box spring is close to nature. 

This luxurious box spring is made exclusively 

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Almelo Almere Amersfoort Amstelveen Amsterdam (Villa Arena) Apeldoorn Arnhem Beverwijk Breda Cruquius Delft Den Bosch 

Den Haag Deurne Doetinchem Enschede Geleen Groningen Hazerswoude-Rijndijk Heerhugowaard Heerlen Leeuwarden Maastricht 

Middelburg Nijmegen Oisterwijk Rotterdam (Alexandrium) Sliedrecht Son (Ekkersrijt) Spijkenisse Uden Utrecht Veenendaal Venlo 

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THE WILD FILES #01 

Animal magic 

These simple, graphic images 

are vector illustrations 

by 24-year-old Argentinian 

designer/artist Nacho Gil. 

They are created by only 

using triangles and two 

colour gradients, yet their 

impact is stunning. Along 

with the zebra, white tiger 

and leopard shown here, 

other animals in the series 

are a bear and a giraffe, 

with more fauna to come. 

Gil studied Communications 

at UCA in Buenos Aires 

and has also completed 

a course in Fine Arts at 

London’s Central Saint 

Martins College of Art 

& Design. 

WWW.NACHO-GIL.COM 


Contact: hello@nacho-gil.com

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Spot the 

difference 

Yayoi Kusama started to paint 

using polka dots at the age 

of ten. The Japanase avantgarde 

sculptor, painter, 

novelist and fi lm maker 

headed to New York in 1957, 

and was heavily involved in 

the city’s thriving art scene 

throughout the 1960s. She 

organised ‘happenings’ such 

as body painting festivals, 

fashion shows and anti-war 

demonstrations. Kusama 

returned to Tokyo in 1973, 

where she has continued to 

create her wild, spotted art. 

This piece, entitled Ascension 

Of Polka Dots On The Trees 

was an installation for the 

Singapore Biennale, while her 

latest project is a limitededtion 

mobile phone range. 

WWW.YAYOI-KUSAMA.JP 


Photos: Yayoi Kusama Studio

Feng Shui Collection - Info + 32(0)9 2800 666 - www.hulchibelluni.com


Going green 

This is part of a four-piece 

series by Dutch artist 

Levi van Veluw called 

Landscapes. A combination 

of the romantic landscape 

and self-portrait genres, 

the images are designed to 

reinterpret the traditional 

landscape painting, by 

removing plots of grass, 

clusters of trees and 

babbling brooks from their 

2D formats and transposing 

them onto the 3D contours 

of the artist’s own face. Van 

Veluw will be exhibiting at Art 

Rotterdam, February 4-7, 2010. 

WWW.LEVIVANVELUW.NL 


Photos: Levi van Veluw. Landscape 1, 2008 is courtesy of the Ron Mandos Gallery

Tahiti Collection - Info + 32(0)9 2800 666 - www.hulchibelluni.com


Project 

catwalk 

Fashion designer Alexander 

McQueen is well known for 

his lavish, unconventional 

runway shows and his 

recent Spring/Summer 2010 

collection was defi nitely an 

attention-grabber. Entitled 

Plato’s Atlantis, it featured 

alien-like platform shoes and 

intricately moulded and 

shaped reptile-print dresses. 

The inspiration for the show 

came from sources as diverse 

as Darwin and the natural 

world, to underwater aliens 

and technology. Broadcast 

live on the Internet, it was a 

show for everyone and not 

just the fashion elite. 

WWW.ALEXANDERMCQUEEN.COM 


Photos: Peter Stigter

WYOMING, USA 

Amangani 

You can spend your days skiing, 

snowmobiling, snowshoeing 

(to track winter wildlife) or 

even dog-sledding at the 

Amangani resort in Jackson Hole. 

And if none of those winter 

wonderland adventures appeal 

to you, you can always just stay 

indoors and enjoy the views of 

the snow-capped peaks around 

the Grand Teton National Park. 

WWW.AMANRESORTS.COM 

Natural

wonders 

A wild escape doesn’t have to mean 

roughing it. These luxury hotels all have 

wildlife on their doorsteps 

WORDS RUTH LINDSAY 

MADHYA PRADESH, INDIA 

Banjaar Tola 

Situated on the edge of the Banjaar River, overlooking the Kanha 

National Park, the two Banjaar Tola camps are made up of just 

nine tented suites each. The luxury tents feature bamboo fl oors 

with canvas roofs and walls, and their own bath and shower. The 

national park is one of India’s largest, and the hotel’s safaris give 

you a chance to encounter a range of wildlife. Just some of the 

animals you might spot are tigers, deers, porcupines, monkeys 

and leopards. The park is also a paradise for bird lovers – they can 

spot 300 different varieties. 

WWW.TAJSAFARIS.COM 

Giraffe Manor 

If you don’t fancy stepping outside to see the 

wildlife, then let the wildlife come to you. At Nairobi’s 

Giraffe Manor, the resident giraffe herd quite often 

make an appearance at the breakfast table poking 

their heads in through open windows. The hotel is 

also home to a stunning range of birds and a large 

family of warthogs. It’s just outside the Kenyan 

capital and is surrounded by 140 acres of indigenous 

forest. WWW.GIRAFFEMANOR.COM 

WILD LUXURY 

NAIROBI, KENYA 


WILD LUXURY 

Longitude 131° 

There are just 15 private tents at 

Longitude 131˚, so you only have 

to share your view of the sunrise 

over Uluru (Ayers Rock) with a 

few other guests. This awardwinning 

resort is situated on the 

edge of the World Heritagelisted 

wilderness sites of Uluru 

and the Kata Tjuta National 

Park in Australia’s red centre, 

and offers you the chance to 

explore the outback in style. 

WWW.LONGITUDE131.COM.AU 

VALLDAL, NORWAY 


Juvet Landscape 

NORTHERN TERRITORY, AUSTRALIA 

Lying on the edge of Norway’s western fjord region on an old farm 

site – that dates back to the 16th century – the Juvet Landscape 

hotel truly immerses you in nature. As well as the main farmhouse 

buildings, there are ten detached, cube-style hotel rooms, which let 

you stare straight into the surrounding wilderness. During your stay, 

you’ll be offered the chance to go on ski trips, guided walks, rock 

climbing or rafting adventures. WWW.JUVET.COM

Introductory 

rates from 

$165 

per night 

incl. tax. 

Offer valid for travel April 12 thru December 23, 2010. Reservations must be confirmed by February 28, 2010. 

Offer is subject to availability and may be discontinued at any time. See www.diviresorts.com/hollandherald for details.

Puffin in snowstorm, Hornøya, Norway 

“In early spring, seabirds return in their 

thousands to breed on the high cliffs of 

Hornøya, a small island not far from Vardø, 

Norway. The puffins arrived and just at 

that moment it started snowing. I was 

delighted, as it’s very unusual to see 

puffins flying in snowflakes.” 

32 Holland Herald WILD

Antarctica 

“Eye to eye is the 

best way to make 

great pictures of 

RIGHT: birds and Shanghai animals. 

Tang For just is one a moment of 

China’s I am part of their 

first lives. home-grown 

I always feel 

luxury very privileged brands to 

FAR have RIGHT: witnessed In the 

store, these things get your with 

hands my own on eyes. some These of 

the animals latest don’t fashion have 

accessories 

any fear of humans.” 

Keeping 

it cool 

Dutch photographer Jan Vermeer 

captures nature at its wildest, 

in some of the world’s most 

inhospitable environments 

NATURE PHOTOGRAPHY 

It’s hard to imagine 

the patience and perfect timing involved 

in the creation of Jan Vermeer’s 

photographs. He must endure frozen 

hands and feet along with temperamental 

camera batteries when capturing nature 

in the harsh conditions of the Arctic and 

Antarctica. However, Vermeer is drawn 

to these frozen landscapes. 

He says: “I think it is the combination 

of it being a pure, endless world and the 

serene atmosphere. When snow and ice 

cover the landscape it makes it more 

peaceful. The other thing is that, in these 

cold regions, the problems with melting 

ice are extremely visual. I believe the 

best way to tell this story is to reach 

out to people with beautiful pictures 

of penguins and polar bears, rather 

than with harsh news images.” 

On the next few pages, we bring you 

some of Jan’s favourite images from his 

latest book Breaking Ice. 



Walruses, Phipps 

Island, Spitsbergen 

“Walruses are curious 

creatures and I 

captured this shot 

when I was standing 

on the beach on the 

coast of Spitsbergen. 

These huge animals 

came extremely close 

to me. I like the 

composition of this 

photo, with the 

animals and the 

beautiful landscape in 

the background. I also 

think it’s nice to show 

the animals in their 

own environment and 

not just a headshot 

of them.” 

“These 

animals don’t 

have any 

fear of 

humans” 


Emperor penguins, 

Snow Hill Island, 

Antarctica 

“With a height of 

115 centimetres, 

emperors are the 

largest penguins. 

They are also the 

only penguin 

species that breeds 

on the ice.”


Muskox, 

Kangerlussuaq, 

Greenland 

“It was -35°C when I 

took this picture. 

This impressive, 

prehistoric-looking 

animal lives in the 

tundra fields of 

Greenland.” 

An iceberg, Snow 

Hill Island, 

Antarctica 

“Normally, I try to 

keep people out 

of my images, but 

sometimes it’s 

necessary to 

include them for a 

sense of scale. In 

this image, without 

the people in front 

of the giant iceberg 

it would be harder 

to get an idea of 

just how big it is.” 


19 December 2009 - 9 May 2010 

Judith Leyster (1609 – 1660) is the most famous female 

painter of the Dutch Golden Age. Competing with 

Frans Hals, she ventured into ambitious figure-based 

projects. Like her choice of subject, her brushwork 

was bold: loose, but poignant. To commemorate the 

400th anniversary of the birth of Judith Leyster, a small 

selection of her best works is being shown. 

Judith 

Leyster 

The first woman to 

become a master painter 

FRANS HALS


Polar bears with 

a bearded seal kill, 

Spitsbergen, Svalbard 

“Polar bears are very 

good hunters, especially 

when it come to 

catching bearded seals, 

which can weigh up 

to 400 kilograms. This 

looks bloody, but the 

laws of nature are not 

always friendly. The 

polar bear cubs have 

to eat to be strong 

enough for the coming 

winter period.” 

Paradise Bay, Antarctica 

“The name of this place 

says it all.” 



For more of these stunning 

images, check out photographer 

Jan Vermeer’s new 192-page 

book Breaking Ice, €29.95. 

ISBN: 978 90 78964 50 6. 

It’s available from bookstores 

in The Netherlands or on www. 

bol.com or www.amazon.com 

www.janvermeer.nl 

Het brekende ijs, de krijsende vogels en het gegrom van ijsberen | Breaking Ice, screaming birds and roaring bears 

jan vermeer 


Steller’s sea eagle, 

Hokkaido, Japan 

“Steller’s sea eagles 

mainly breed in 

Kamchatka in eastern 

Russia and spend 

their winters around 

Hokkaido. I have seen 

more then 100 of these 

birds gathered on an 

ice floe at one time.” 

The Kapitan Khlebnikov 

icebreaker, Scotia Sea, 

Antarctica 

“This is a rare shot from 

the top of the ship. I 

looked down and saw 

one of the passengers 

taking photographs of 

the ice. The icebreaker 

is showing what it 

is capable of.”

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Midnight 

madness 

Exclusively written for Holland Herald by John S. Burnett 

The back road off the highway fed into a 

dirt track that wound deeper into Belgium’s 

Ardennes region. In our second week of 

biking through the continent, camping in 

the wild avoiding campgrounds and hotels, 

we were searching for the perfect isolated 

spot to pitch our tent for the night... 


We were heading in the general direction of Bastogne and were 

now in the region where the American 101st Airborne Division withstood the German assault in 

the Battle of the Bulge. The forest was thick with history – occasionally a forgotten cement 

fortifi cation poked through the fallen leaves. 

The path wound around a rocky outcropping and ended abruptly at a stone cottage with a tin 

roof and smoke curling out of the chimney. A small dark fi gure sat on a wooden bench against the 

house, bent over a bucket; she continued whatever it was she was doing without looking up. A 

mangy dog slept curled at her feet. He raised his eyes, barked indifferently, then returned to sleep. 

Instinctively, and not wanting to intrude, we turned our bikes away and back down the path. Her 

shrill voice cut through the silence like the squeak of a rusty gate. 

“You!” 

She looked up and beckoned us with arthritically rigid fi ngers. Jackie and I looked at each 

other and we silently agreed to return. It had been a hot day and we were short of water. 

We tried not to show our hesitation as we pushed our bikes toward the house. The old woman, 

dressed in black, stared at us impassively as we approached. Thin, wrinkly face, corvine nose, 

puckered mouth without apparent teeth, and snow white hair. She cut an almost witch-like fi gure. 

“You want water?” she asked in French. 

She rose from the bench and following her stooped fi gure, we went into her home. Inside the 

gloomy room, illuminated only by the sun streaming through the windows, a covered pot 

simmered on a wood-burning stove and a pair of cats slept together on a rocking chair. 

A chicken scurried under the rough-hewn table as we entered. 

Grabbing a plastic jug, she led us through 

the house to the back and the water pump outside. 

A mud-caked pig sidled up to us, squealing as it 

rubbed against my leg. 

“Best water,” she said, as she pumped the 

handle. “What are you doing here?” 

“Camping au sauvage,” I said. 

“You be careful – very dangerous,” she said, leading us back to the house. 

The single, low-ceiling room was panelled on one side with grey, weathered wood. 

ADVENTURE TRAVEL 

“She looked up and 

beckoned us with arthritically 

rigid fi ngers” 

A few framed photos were tacked to the wall, one of them a portrait of a large, well-dressed 

family ranging from the elderly to the infants. 

“My family,” she said. “In Charleroi – all university!” The pride in her voice was evident. 

Her husband, she explained, had been a coal miner and had passed away fi ve years before. 

She sometimes went to Charleroi to visit the family, she said. “But I do not like the city.” 

“They come to see you?” I asked. 

She closed her grey eyes and shook her head. It was not a question I should have asked. 

“What is dangerous – out there?” Jackie asked. I detected the nervousness in her voice. 

“Boar, wild pigs – very unpredictable.” 

I looked at her for more information. “In the fall, it is breeding season,” I think I 

understood her to say. 

Outside, she nodded to her bucket. It was fi lled with wild mushrooms. “Pigs love 

mushrooms,” she said simply. 




I pulled out a map of the area and asked where we were exactly. Her vision seemed to cloud 

and hesitantly she pointed to a spot far away. I realised then that she could not read. 

We pushed our heavily-laden bikes down the path, which continued around her house and 

deeper into the woods. It was getting late and in the forest dark was not far off. 

Finding a small clearing under the pines and hardwoods, we began to rig the tent on a soft 

bed of leaves. We laid out a plastic sheet and broke out a baguette, cheese and a bottle of wine. 

In the quiet of the forest, we spoke in muted tones of our plans for the next day. Suddenly a 

throaty, guttural bark, clear and sharp broke the silence and startled us. We stopped talking. That 

animal noise was close. The creature barked again, more insistently. It was not just a random cry 

in the wild but a warning to the interlopers. Aliens in a darkening forest in a strange land, had we 

been children we would have fl ed in terror. 

“Oh God, what it is it – is it what the woman was warning about?” Jackie whispered. As if 

preparing for battle, she corked the bottle and slipped the remaining bread and cheese into the 

fold of the tent. I had no more experience in the Ardennes than she had. 

Emboldened by our cowering silence, the animal barked his threat again, this time 

much closer. The throaty animal noises sounded big and in our imagination the challenge to us 

was coming from a critter of some considerable size. I withdrew my machete from its scabbard. It 

is a wide-blade long knife that is probably far more effective at cutting sugar cane in some parts of 

the world than protecting a couple of itinerant bicyclists. 

The animal barked again – he couldn’t be any more than a few metres in front of us – perhaps 

just behind that deadfall of rotting trees. Close enough to hear rustling leaves under hoof. Knife in 

hand, I stood ready for combat – if it were to come to that. 

“What are you going to do? Careful!” 

The boar emerged slowly from the dark of the forest. It was about the size of a very large, 

muscular dog, about a metre long and solid. Two small tusks curved out of its mouth. In the dim 

light and in the distance, it was a nervous shuffl ing shadow on four feet. It pawed the forest fl oor 

like a bull ready to charge, its small dark eyes fi xed 

on me as if sizing me up. It lowered its snout and 

“In the dim light and in the 

distance, it was a nervous 

shuffl ing shadow on four feet” 

began to root through the leaves and dirt, 

apparently not sure whether to hunt for food or 

attack the intruders. 

Without any indication of what was 

to come, he raised his head and began to rumble 

uncertainly toward me. Fleeing was not an 

option. With Jackie not far away and knowing that I could not outrun it, I raised my knife, 

wondering whether to poke it or slash it. About ten metres away, it pulled up short, snorting 

heavily through its snout. I was hoping he was as afraid of me as I was of him. It stood its 

ground and barked in anger. 

I slammed the fl at blade of the machete against a tree and tried to bark in return. It was more 

of a pathetic croak. But the explosive metallic report of the blade against the tree rang through the 

forest and the pig turned and lumbered back into the forest.

I began to think I had scared it away. My relief was short-lived. Seconds later, it emerged 

cautiously out of the shadows. The row of bristles on its back were raised in challenge. I banged 

the tree quickly and desperately, convinced that if I didn’t frighten him off this time, he would 

attack. He stood his ground and then turned away. With a parthian volley of frustrated snorts, it 

disappeared into the underbrush, churning 

through the leaves with its snout as if it had better 

things to do anyway. 

It took a while for us to fall asleep in the tent 

that night. Inside the fl imsy nylon cocoon, one 

adopts a false sense of security; usually, the night 

sounds in the forest are soothing, if not a little 

mysterious. Nevertheless, I slept with the machete 

at my side. 

“Both of us were now 

sitting with our knees 

up, waiting” 

I awoke with a start, opened my eyes into the darkness and held my breath. Something had 

woken me. A noise, a sensation, something. There it was again, laboured heavy breathing and it 

was right at my ear. Outside on the other side of the tent, inches away, the raspy wheeze mingled 

with a soft grunt. 

“Is that the pig?” she whispered. 

“Think so.” 

“What’s it doing?” 

“Breathing into my ear – I don’t know!” I had a death grip on the handle of the knife. If he 

started tearing at the tent, I would go out. The snorting grew louder turning into a impatient bark. 

The animal was challenging me to come out for a fi ght. After some minutes there was silence. And 

we waited, tense and frightened. Eventually we dozed off – only to be awakened sometime later by 

the beast that was now pawing the ground outside, hoofi ng from one side of the tent to the other. 

The boar hit a guy line that held up the tent and the tent began to sag. I slipped out of the 

sleeping bag and sat up, trying to determine the best way to drive it away. If he charged fi rst, we 

would be trapped in nylon, guy wires, and sleeping bags. Inside, we were helpless, trapped and we 

could not fi ght back or escape. Both of us were now sitting with our knees up, waiting. Waiting for 

what we were not sure, a sign, a signal that it had decided to attack. The noises from the animal 

seemed now to come from the tent fl y, the opening. Scuffi ng and digging, it occasionally brushed 

against the guy lines. The tent felt like it was about to collapse with us inside. And then, 

unexpectedly, it was quiet, and I thought I heard the snorting receding into the distance. 

Sometime during the siege, we fell asleep leaning against each other in exhaustion, the long 

knife in my lap. 

The next morning, we listened. There was nothing except the songs of the early morning 

birds. I cautiously opened the fl ap of the tent, expecting the boar to be waiting for us, poised for 

the attack. The area was clear, puffy clouds played over the canopy of trees. I looked down, and 

just in front of the tent the boar had left his mark – a still steaming reminder that this was his 

territory and that we were lucky to get away untouched. 

John Burnett is operations manager for Maritime & Underwater Security Consultants, London, and 

is author of Dangerous Waters, Modern Piracy and Terror on the High Seas. 



Over the hills 

Villagers returning 

home on the 

Tagong grassland 


TRAVEL CHINA 

and far away 

Towering Himalayan peaks, whitewater rapids 

and stunning grasslands offer intrepid travellers 

rich rewards in Western Sichuan. Daniel Allen 

gets adventurous 

Bent double under 50 kilograms of dried 

chilli peppers, Kunsang stops to shift the unwieldy burden 

lashed to her back. Thirty feet below, under the rudimentary 

suspension bridge of wire and thin wooden boards that 

support her, the mighty Dadu River churns past, drenching 

the air with heavy spray. Constrained by steep canyon walls, 

the noise is deafening. 

Kunsang and her family will brave the frothing waters 

of the Dadu several more times today as they transport 

their fi ery harvest to the opposite bank. Despite the toil 

and obvious danger, everyone is in good spirits. “We got 

a fair price from the local merchant,” explains Jamyang, 

Kunsang’s father, between long drags on his pipe. “Maybe 

there’ll even be some spare money to fi x up the bridge,” 

he adds mischievously. 


Photography: Daniel Allen

TRAVEL CHINA 


“It’s hard to get here, but once you arrive, 

you won’t want to leave” 

In a landscape that can be as unforgiving as it is 

dramatic, the people of Kunsang’s village seem accustomed 

to taking a little extra risk. Row upon row of quaint, red-andwhite 

stone houses sit at the base of a gigantic, overhanging rock 

face, tempting gravity or seismic forces to do their worst. Still, 

as visitors soon discover, Western Sichuan has never been a 

place for the faint of heart. 

Stretching north to Gansu, south to Yunnan and west to 

Tibet, Sichuan’s western highlands rear up from the tableland 

around Chengdu, capital of Sichuan, and boast some of Asia’s 

most thrilling scenery. Remote valleys dotted with shaggy yaks, 

delicate fl owers and golden-roofed temples sit below snowy 

mountain ranges, all set against an azure sky. 

“We often sing of the beauty of our surroundings,” says 

Kunsang, a richly decorated hair braid encircling the weathered 

contours of her face. “Some people say this land is like a fortress 

paradise. It’s hard to get here, but once you arrive, you won’t 

want to leave.” If James Hilton’s Shangri-La does exist, it could 

well be in this wondrously wild corner of south-west China. 

These days, Western Sichuan is easily accessed by 

road from Chengdu, where the majority of tourists see the 

sights and stock up on creature comforts before heading out. 

Independent travel in the region is certainly possible, but 

unless you speak Mandarin Chinese and are a fan of long, 

BELOW: Corn 

cobs outside a 

traditional 

farmhouse 

ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: 

Freshly brewed 

green tea; 

A local takes 

a break beside 

the Dadu River, 

near Danba; 

Moxi, near Mount 

Gongga

Drying out 

chilli peppers 

at Mount 

Mengding

LEFT TO RIGHT: A 

game of Chinese 

chess in Chengdu; 

All smiles in 

Tagong; 

Returning from 

the market 

in Kangding 

uncomfortable bus journeys, it’s best to join a tour, or 

at least hire your own vehicle and driver. 

“Western Sichuan is a land ripe for exploration,” says 

Roland Zeidler, a German national who co-runs Western 

Sichuan Tours out of Chengdu. “There are still many areas 

where tourists have never been to, and peaks which are only 

now being attempted by climbing expeditions. With its vibrant 

culture and stunning landscapes, this is one part of China I 

never tire of visiting.” 

While the chilli peppers of Kunsang’s village are now widely 

cultivated in Western Sichuan, another crop of a more soothing 

nature has had far greater infl uence on the region. Ya’an’s 

Hengduan Mountain Range boasts some of the richest green-tea 

producing slopes in the world, and a love of leaves from this area 

led to the establishment of the Tea Horse Road between 

imperial China and Tibet. 

“After tea from Sichuan was introduced into Tibet, it 

quickly became part of the Tibetan diet,” explains local 

historian-cum-tour guide Li Qiang, cautiously sipping his own 

fl ask of steaming hot beverage. “From around 600 AD, right 

through to the early 20th century, tea caravans crossed Western 

Sichuan into Tibet, where bags of leaves were bartered for 

thoroughbred Tibetan horses for the emperor’s armies.” 

Although the Tea Horse Road has long been rendered 

obsolete by modern highways, the centuries of cultural 

TRAVEL CHINA 

“It is a land ripe for exploration. There are still 

many areas where tourists have never been to” 

exchange and regional commerce it promoted are evident across 

much of Western Sichuan. On the verdant slopes of Mount 

Mengding just outside Ya’an, serried ranks of tea bushes still 

blanket the ground like gently rippled corduroy. 

“Mengding tea is some of the best in China,” says long-time 

local farmer Chen Yusheng, who also grows corn and tobacco 

on his elevated terrace. “In the old days, coolies would carry 

bricks of tea from here across rivers, over mountains and 

through deep valleys to Kangding and beyond. Trucks take my 

tea away now of course, but it still tastes as good as ever, and I 

still get to wake up to this beautiful view every morning.” 

Most of Chen Yusheng’s tea now ends up in Kangding, 

administrative capital of western Sichuan. With its fascinating 

mix of Han and Tibetan cultures, many visitors to the region 

choose to base themselves here for a few days, soaking up the 

scenery and acclimatising to the increased altitude. Kangding’s 

recently opened airport – the second highest in the world – 

means Chengdu is now only 40 minutes way, although fl ights 

are sometimes cancelled due to bad weather. 

Kangding is a surprisingly dense metropolis squeezed 

between high valley walls. Arriving today, it’s hard to imagine 

the place as it was half a century ago. A rabbit warren of 

ramshackle wooden houses, Kangding was then a rustic 

outpost – a frontier town in a wild landscape. Caravans 


“Western Sichuan is not all mountains, 

forests and rivers” 

would arrive from the west, exchanging their horses, yak 

hides and herbs for tea and silk. 

Kangding’s Tibetan population adds a sizeable splash of 

colour to the neighbourhoods. These are the Khampa, 

renowned as much for their warrior tradition as religious 

devotion. Nowadays, however, the silver daggers are 

ornamental, and the biggest battle is all about the longest hair 

braids and most extravagant headgear. 

Living close to Kangding, Tenzin, a Khampa farmer, 

makes weekly pilgrimages into town to sell wild mushrooms 

and dairy products at the local market. Beside the raging 

Zheduo River that bisects the main street, his makeshift stall is 

overloaded with giant wheels of creamy yellow butter, much of it 

wrapped in protective yak hide. 

Tenzin often invites passers-by to share a cup of freshly 

brewed yak butter tea. “Foreigners generally don’t like the taste 

of it,” he says. “I take the tea leaves and soak them in hot water 

for a few hours. Then I add a chunk of butter, a few spoonfuls of 

salt, a cup of milk and mix the whole concoction together. 

You’d appreciate it a little more if you were a couple of thousand 

metres higher up and it was 30˚C colder.” 

One place close to Kangding that may be perfect for yak 

butter tea appreciation is Mount Gongga. Soaring high above 

Western Sichuan’s jagged topography, this elegant pyramid of 

TRAVEL CHINA 

LEFT: Chengdu’s 

leafy backstreets 

granite, snow and ice peaks out at over 7,500 meters, and was 

once thought to be higher than Everest. 

Mount Gongga’s splendour belies its treacherous nature. 

Until 1999, more people had died climbing it than conquered its 

summit. These days, most visitors opt for a cable car ride up to a 

3,600-metre platform beside the Hailuogou Glacier, one of four 

frozen rivers that creep down the mountain’s plunging fl anks. 

As temperate forest wreathed in mist gives way to Hailuogou’s 

fi ssured tongue of blue-white ice and rock, this is a breathtaking 

ascent in more ways than one. 

“On a clear day, you can see the mountain all the way to 

Chengdu,” explains Tang Lei, a high-altitude vendor hawking 

boiled water and fried dough balls next to the cable car terminal. 

Leaving Kangding and the mighty Mount Gongga 

behind, the road twists and turns as it fi ghts the gradient. An 

endless succession of switchbacks offers ever more stunning 

views over pine forests and craggy mountain ranges. Giant 

boulders stained with bright ferrous deposits lie discarded beside 

meltwater streams, while overhead gossamer strands of lichen 

decorate branches in a primeval spider’s web of vegetation. 

Western Sichuan is not all mountains, forests and rivers, 

though. From the town of Tagong, 100 kilometres north-west 

of Kangding, a high altitude sea of grass stretches toward the 

horizon. Ringed by a necklace of snowy peaks, this lush 


TRAVEL CHINA 

tapestry of undulating meadows and hills is a pristine 

environment where Khampa horsemen once honed their 

fi ghting skills. 

“People usually end up staying in Tagong longer than they 

plan,” says Sally Norbu, Khampa co-owner of the perennially 

popular Sally’s Kham Restaurant. “We have a very vibrant and 

special community here.” 

The sprawling grasslands of Western Sichuan have long 

been associated with horses, both as beasts of burden and battle, 

and as commodities for bargaining. The tea caravans and 

warriors have long since disappeared, but the horse remains one 

of the best ways to get around, for locals and visitors. 

“For Khampa men, riding horses has always been a glorious 

thing,” explains Sally. “As they gallop across the grassland with 

the wind in their face, yelling at the tops of their voices, 

Khampas have a great sense of togetherness and honour. In 

Tagong we have a popular song that says: ‘A good steed is like a 

swift bird, a golden saddle is like its feathers. When the bird and 

its feathers are together, then the highlands are easily crossed.’ 

Khampas don’t make so many great journeys as before, but 

there are plenty of horse festivals around here where the local 

men can prove their strength and ability.” 

One of Tagong’s most popular day trips is a cross-country 

horse ride. The trail wends its way through a carpet of grass 


LEFT TO RIGHT: 

Colourful roadside 

scenery outside 

Kangding; 

A butterfly near 

Mount Mengding; 

A yak grazes in 

the shadow of 

Mount Haizi 

“One of the best things about riding round 

here is meeting the nomads” 

and vivid blue fl owers. Semi-wild horses roam free here, their 

bellies fat from grazing, while restless herds of yak search out 

the lushest pastures. Vultures soar effortlessly above, casting 

shadows over the picturesque topography. 

Most Khampa in Western Sichuan now live in wood or 

stone houses with brilliantly carved windows, eschewing the 

mud-brick dwellings and yak-hair tents of the past. Around 

Tagong, however, the nomadic way of life is still much in 

evidence, with sporadic groups of tents pitched under the big 

blue sky. Many are patrolled by huge mastiffs, the traditional 

guard dog of the grassland. 

“One of the best things about riding round here, apart 

from the scenery, is meeting the local nomads,” says Sally. “If 

you’re invited to join them don’t worry about the dogs, which 

are usually tied up. People on the grassland are very friendly. 

Even if they don’t have much they usually still offer visitors a 

cup of yak butter tea.” 

Today, Western Sichuan remains a land of great 

contrast. The terrain may be inhospitable, but the warmth 

of the local welcome is deep and sincere. Materially, they 

may be poor, but the Khampa inhabit a land rich in culture 

and endowed with great natural beauty. For a little less than 

all the tea in China, the walls of their fortress paradise are 

surely worth scaling.

Villagers cross 

the mighty 

Dadu River, 

near Danba

TRAVEL CHINA 

Sichuan fact fi le 

HOW TO GET THERE 

KLM operates two direct 

fl ights per week (Sundays and 

Wednesdays) to Chengdu 

Airport from Amsterdam 

Airport Schiphol. 

TOURS AND TRANSPORT 

Travelling solo is possible, 

but it’s easier to join a tour or 

at least hire your own vehicle 

and driver. Many parts of 

Western Sichuan are very high, 

so altitude sickness medication 

is recommended, and ensure 

you become acclimatised to 

changes in elevation gradually. 


Qinhai 

Danba 

Tagong 

Yunnan 

Western Sichuan Tours 

This small, multinational outfi t 

runs eco-tours across Western 

Sichuan. Tours can be tailored 

to the group’s requirements 

(mountaineering, trekking, 

general sightseeing) 

and include a guide, 

accommodation and transport. 

Gaoshengqiao, Luofu 

Shijia 4-1-104, Chengdu; 

+86 139 80035421 

www.wstourix.com 

Sam’s Guesthouse & Tours 

This low-end but comfortable 

guesthouse also runs tours in 

Sichuan 

Gansu 

Chengdu 

Kangding 

Guizhou 

Chengdu and across Western 

Sichuan. The tour offi ce 

can hook up small parties 

with transport (jeep, minivan) 

and competent drivers (who 

will also recommend places 

to sleep and eat). 

130 Shanxi Street, Chengdu; 

+86 28 8611 8322 

www.hostelchengdu.com 

WHERE TO EAT 

Sally’s Kham 

Restaurant & Bar 

You’ll fi ne a range of very 

reasonable Western, Chinese 

and Tibetan food – check out 

Russia 

India 

China 

the yak and potato stew 

(pictured below left). Also 

has special tea for relieving 

altitude sickness. 

Tagong (next to Snowland 

Guesthouse) 

Grandma’s Kitchen 

Here you will be treated to 

an array of tasty Western 

dishes (along with great 

breakfasts) and an extensive 

drinks list. There is free 

WiFi available and the staff 

speak English. 

22 Renmin South Road 

(Nan Lu), Chengdu; 

+86 28 8555 3856 

WHERE TO SLEEP 

Jya Drolma and 

Gayla’s Guesthouse 

Large, comfortable 

guesthouse which is 

decorated in a Tibetan 

style. Can also arrange horse 

riding and local tours. 

Tagong (close to Tagong 

Temple on the main square); 

+86 836 2866056

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INTERVIEW CHRISTIANE AMANPOUR 


Question 

Journalist Christiane Amanpour has had 

her fair share of wild adventures while on the 

road. She talks to Jane Szita about her journey 

so far and what lies ahead 

In her 20 years on the road, 

Christiane Amanpour has become one 

of the world’s best-known foreign 

correspondents, reliably keeping her 

cool in hot spots all over the globe, 

including Bosnia, Rwanda, Iraq, Gaza 

and Afghanistan. Along the way, she has 

interviewed everyone who is anyone in 

world affairs. Now, though, she has given 

up dodging bullets for a desk job in New 

York, fronting her own studio interview 

programme, called Amanpour, for CNN. 

Why take this new direction with a 

studio-based programme? 

“The idea grew very much out of my two 

decades as a foreign correspondent, when 

I was covering wars, crises and other 

events on the ground. When people 

see these reports, they want to know 

more – they want more context, more 

understanding of the background. And 

paradoxically, although technology is 

providing us with more and more 

information, we’re getting less and less 

understanding. So with this show, I want 

to provide a focus on the big issues and 

look at topics in depth. And it’s a chance 

to look at the world from different points 

of view – through the eyes of artists and 

sports people too.” 

Does that mean you’ll no longer 

be a roving reporter? 

“Not at all, I’ll still be roving and 

reporting – and I want to take the show 

on the road, to Afghanistan, for example. 

I want to tap into local voices. And being 

a foreign correspondent is in my blood. 

I’m still dedicated to what that means.” 

So what does it mean? 

“Foreign correspondants are the eyes and 

ears of the people who cannot be there 

where things are happening. They have a 

massive responsibility to get at the reality 

of the situation, to fi nd the truth. That can 

only be done on the spot if you want to get 

a really well-rounded view of what’s 

happening, to transmit the stories of real 

people. I really believe that journalists and 

good journalism can make a difference.” 

In your 20 years, has the job 

become more diffi cult? 

“Yes, it has. For one thing, it’s increasingly 

dangerous – journalists don’t just get 

caught in the crossfi re anymore, often 

they become targets themselves. I have 

been fortunate enough to not get hurt; 

other people I’ve known in the job 

have not been so lucky. There is more 

obstruction. As we get more and more

time 

Christiane 

Amanpour 

in Afghanistan 

while filming 

the CNN 

special In The 

Footsteps Of 

Bin Laden 

TRAVEL SICHUAN 

“It’s intense, 

extreme and 

often very 

difficult” 


INTERVIEW CHRISTIANE AMANPOUR 

TOP: Reporting from 

Northern Israel 

during the conflict 

in the Middle East 

between Israel and 

the Hezbollah 

ABOVE: Talking 

with local children 

while filming 

CNN Presents: 

Generation Islam 

in Afghanistan 


“I believed in what I 

wanted to do and in the 

power of journalism” 

information around the world, more 

and more leaders, militias and entities 

don’t want the truth getting out. Another 

problem for foreign correspondents is 

cutbacks – media companies are less likely 

to have the budgets to send you out there.” 

somehow managed to get into American 

journalism. When I started, 26 years ago, 

there were no dark-haired women on 

television in America, and there were no 

people with a different accent. But I didn’t 

take no for an answer. I joined CNN out of 

college, and I set my sights, and worked 

very hard. I believed in what I wanted to do 

and in the power of journalism.” 

What’s the longest assignment 

you’ve ever had? 

“The length of time you spend on a story 

varies a lot, but I literally spent years 

covering the Bosnian war, between 

1991 and 1996.” 

Are there places you haven’t been to? 

“Actually, more than you might think. I’ve 

yet to visit many parts of Europe, or the farfl 

ung regions of Russia. I haven’t been to 

Japan, Australia or New Zealand, and there 

is a lot of Latin America I still have to see. 

The places I’d love to go to are Bhutan, 

Burma, the Arctic and the Antarctic.” 

How do you cope with the stress of 

working in crisis areas? 

“Of course it’s intense, extreme and often 

very diffi cult. You get through it by 

getting to know people well, and sharing 

experiences with colleagues. And 

although the circumstances might be Have you got a top travel tip? 

terrible, you also experience so much that “Pack carefully – that’s my number one tip. 

is positive about the human spirit, even in I’m a very careful packer. I have a uniform 

dire situations – peoples’ resilience, their that I wear for travelling so I don’t have to 

sense of humour, their powers of recovery. think about what to wear, and I never over- 

There is an uplifting side to it. And you pack. I take only one thing that’s a luxury – 

can even have an enormous amount of a good book, or something to remind me 

fun; you end up having these madcap 

adventures along the way.” 

of my family.” 

What do you never leave home 

Your own background is very without? 

international. Did that infl uence “I never travel without my laptop, my 

your choice of job? 

work bag, my earpiece that connects me 

I think it did. I had an Iranian father and to the live broadcast, and my notebook – 

an English mother and I grew up in both even though I’m a television journalist. 

countries. Then I studied in the USA and Sometimes, though, I do forget my 

I got my fi rst job there, with CNN. I’ve 

always had a love of travel and moving 

washbag.” 

between different cultures comes What is your ideal holiday? 

naturally to me. 

“For me, it’s all about getting away – but 

that doesn’t necessarily mean doing 

Early on, your success at CNN was nothing. I’ve enjoyed going to Bali and 

unexpected, wasn’t it? 

Costa Rica, I love visiting the rainforest and 

“I was an Iranian who came to America an African safari is always something I 

at the height of the hostage crisis, when adore doing. I like a good beach holiday, but 

relations between the United States and I relish a trip that’s an adventure, too. It’s a 

Iran were at their worst, and yet I busman’s holiday I know, but I love it.” 

Photos: CNN

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Illustrations: Moker Ontwerp (www.mokerontwerp.nl) The 

Gone are the days when 

the urban jungle was solely the domain of 

people. Increasingly, wildlife is also fl ocking 

to our concrete citadels and discovering 

the joys of the modern metropolis. Cities 

around the world are home to more wildlife 

than you might think. In the United States, 

wild pigs have been spotted in Tuscon, bears 

are Seattle regulars and urban coyotes have 

taken a liking to Californian swimming 

pools. There are koalas in southern Sydney, 

Tokyo is teeming with jungle crows, 

and, mistaking skyscrapers for craggy 

mountains, peregrine falcons circle the 

skies above London and Amsterdam. 

Perhaps no example is more 

famous than the pair of red-tailed hawks, 

known as Pale Male and Lola, who made 

headlines in 2004 when they claimed their 

own chunk of the Big Apple by building 

their nest in a cornice outside a swanky 5th 

Avenue penthouse. When the building’s 

owners got rid of the nest, New Yorkers 

got in a fl ap, initiating a vigil to demand 

URBAN TALES 

call of 

the jungle 

The bright lights of the city have always 

been a people magnet but, as Annemarie 

Hoeve discovers, the animal kingdom also 

thrives in urban environments 

its return. The nest was reinstated and 

the hawks still live there. Pale Male has 

gone on to attain celebrity status, with 

his own website and feature-length 

documentary: The Legend of Pale Male. 

It won Best of Festival at the 2009 

International Wildlife Film Festival. 

The popularity of these cosmopolitan 

lovebirds reveals a surprising passion for 

wildlife among people who have chosen 

an environment that could not be further 

removed from nature. Evidently, urbanites 

embrace sporadic encounters with 

animals; at least in controlled, 

unthreatening doses. In fact, we love our 

wildlife. “Surveys reveal that 60 million 

Americans enjoy watching wildlife and 

46 million are birdwatchers,” says John 

Hadidian, director of the US Humane 

Society’s urban wildlife programme. “If 

someone sees a fox in their yard, they get 

very excited. There is something basic 

about our attraction to nature and wild 

animals. I fear we will lose this if we 


URBAN TALES 

“Cities offer good shelter, lots of food, 

and have few threats for animals” 

Wild Amsterdam 

Q&A with the city’s 

own urban ecologist 

Remco Daalder: 

What types of wildlife 

live in Amsterdam? 

“The city is up to 8°C hotter 

than its surroundings, so 

Amsterdam is a nice, warm 

snackbar for all sorts of 

animals. There are foxes, 

swifts, peregrine falcons, 40 

breeding pairs of kingfi shers 

and 3,000 ringed parakeets.” 

Which species are you 

most likely to spot? 

“The grey heron. They’re 

almost one metre tall and are 

quite rare elsewhere.” 

What makes Amsterdam 

so ecologically diverse? 

“We have always been a 

trade city, so exotic animals, 

plants and insects have 

come via ships for hundreds 

of years.” 

Does urban wildlife differ 

from its country cousins? 

“Urban blackbirds have thinner 

beaks to better reach food 

stuck in paving. They also sing 

at a higher pitch to be heard 

above the hum of traffi c.” 


create cities that are completely 

inhospitable to wildlife,” he says. 

The feeling is mutual, it seems. 

Animals love us, or at least the cities 

we live in. Surprisingly, Hadidian points 

out that recent US studies have revealed 

that, in urban areas across the USA, 

common wildlife species are actually 

more numerous in cities than in the 

countryside. He says: “Cities offer good 

shelter, lots of food and have few threats 

for animals like raccoons, deer and foxes.” 

Even more surprising is that these days 

the wilderness is simply too wild for some 

animals. He tells of a New England moose 

that recently gave birth on someone’s 

front lawn. “Moose are starting to move 

to the safety of the city to give birth before 

going back in the wild with their 

offspring. We think this is a trend.” 

While on the one hand animals are 

increasingly fi nding their way into cities of 

their own accord, at the same time there is 

another trend which sees people actively 

cultivating pockets of wilderness in towns. 

Think of ‘vertical greenery’. Mere bricks 

and mortar no longer suffi ce. These days, 

any self-respecting urban wall needs to 

be carpeted with lush layers of plants. 

These living, breathing verdant façades 

are mushrooming up all over the place. 

Cities are recognising they’re 

not ecological deserts; they have 

their own unique habitats. To 

celebrate New York’s biodiversity, 

the Safari 7 project maps out 

which animals can be found 

where in a podcast tour along 

the city’s No. 7 subway route, 

which runs from Times Square 

to Flushing. It cuts across the 

city’s most diverse range of 

ecosystems, featuring everything 

from cormorants, to fi sh and 

chickens. In a similar vein, London city 

council has launched a website, Wildweb 

(wildweb.london.gov.uk). They have 

identifi ed 140 important biodiversity 

sites featuring rare fl ora and fauna. 

Artist Fritz Haeg takes the idea of 

the city as a wildlife sanctuary one step 

further. The former architect designs 

and builds dwellings for animals, called 

‘Animal Estates’ and sees animals as 

his ‘clients’. “Just like with people, you 

need to fi nd out how they want to live 

and try and fulfi ll their needs,” he says. 

For the Whitney Museum’s 2008 biennial 

exhibition in New York, he created 

homes for 12 species that would have 

originally been found at the museum’s 

location 400 years ago, when the Dutch 

fi rst landed. He built a beaver dam, an 

enormous eagle’s nest and a bobcat den. 

“We have a resposibility to the animals 

that were already there, and we need to 

welcome them back into the city instead 

of drawing strict boundaries around our 

cities between us and them,” Haeg says. 

He has already created wildlife 

homes in eight cities. In Portland, he built a 

multi-fl oored tower to provide shared 

lodgings for seven species, including bats, 

snakes and bumble-bees. Last year he was 

invited to the Dutch city of Utrecht to 

create a home for the red admiral butterfl y 

and the common swift, among others. He 

stresses that anyone can build homes 

to welcome animals back and there 

are links on his website (www. 

fritzhaeg.com) explaining how 

to build them. And so, the call 

of nature rings clear for 

cosmopolitan types eager to 

explore their wilder side; if you 

want to see the urban jungle 

untamed, you can start in 

your own backyard.

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Red Storm: Conversation by Li Songsong (1973), Rijksmuseum Twenthe, on loan from No Hero Foundation. 

Judith Leyster: Self-portrait (c. 1632-33). National Gallery of Art, Washington. Gift of Mr and Mrs Robert Woods Bliss 

Holland UPDATE 

‘KAMUI’ BY JAPANESE FILM MAKER SAI YOCHI 

Screen scene 

Rotterdam’s superb annual fi lm fest devotes itself to independent, 

innovative and experimental movies from around the world – the majority of 

which will première here. Films are screened in their original language, with 

English subtitles, and are shown in 24 venues in the centre of the city. 

Complementing the celluloid are art exhibitions, debates, talkshows and 

parties. The festival programme will be online on January 21 and tickets will 

also be available from the website on January 23. 

INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL ROTTERDAM January 27-February 7; Box Offi ce: De 

Doelen, Kruisstraat 2, Rotterdam; www.fi lmfestivalrotterdam.com 

EVENTS 

FAULTY TOWERS... THE DINING 

EXPERIENCE January 7 to April 25 

An interactive show 

performed by three 

Australian actors, based 

on the 1970s’ BBC series 

Fawlty Towers. 

Various locations in The Netherlands; 

www.ruuddegraaf.nl 

WINTERNACHTEN January 14-17 

This year’s international literature festival 

takes ‘Rules’ as its theme. 

Various locations in The Hague; +31 70 3650222; 

www.winternachten.nl 

THE NUTCRACKER Until January 27 

The classic Tchaikovsky ballet, imbued 

with a unique 21st-century twist by Scapino 

Ballet Rotterdam choreographer, Marco 

Goecke. 


www.scapinoballet.nl 

ART & ANTIQUES FAIR January 28-31 

An exclusive annual fair held within a 

church in the 17th-century fortress town 

of Naarden. 

De Grote Kerk, St Annastraat 5, Naarden; 

www.kunstenantiekweekend.nl 

BALLET OF THE STATE OPERA OF 

TATARSTAN Until January 31 

This superb company stage 

Bayadère (until January 26), 

Swan Lake (until January 30) 

and The Nutcracker (until 

January 31). 


www.vdbtheater.com 

STAMPING SILENCE Until June 6 

The International Dance Theater perform 

this ‘ode to love’ in a variety of world 

dance styles and music, played by a live 

orchestra. 

Various locations in The Netherlands; +31 20 

6239112; www.intdanstheater.nl 

EXHIBITIONS 

RED STORM Until February 14 

The latest developments in 

Chinese contemporary art. 

Rijksmuseum Twenthe, 

Lasondersingel 129-131, 

Twenthe; +31 53 4358675; 

www.rijksmuseumtwenthe.nl 

CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’ Until January 31 

American ceramics from the Funk and West 

Coast Ceramics movements, including work 

by David Gilhooly, Kenneth Price, Adrian Saxe 

and Peter Voulkos. 

SM’s, Magistratenlaan 100, ’s-Hertogenbosch; 

+31 73 6273680; www.sm-s.nl 

THE SECRET LIFE OF SYRIAN LINGERIE 

Until March 7 

Middle Eastern design, 

fashion and sexuality 

converge in this 

extraordinary exhibition 

which focuses on a little-known side of Syria 

as producer of some of the the world’s most 

exuberant lingerie. Also at the Kunsthal until 

January 17: Modern Life: Edward Hopper And 

His Time. 

Kunsthal, Westzeedijk 341 (Museumpark), 

Rotterdam; +31 10 4400300; www.kunsthal.nl 

JUDITH LEYSTER Until May 9 

An exhibition of work by the 

most famous female artist of 

the Dutch Golden Age, 

Judith Leyster (1609-1660). 

Frans Hals Museum, Groot 

Heligland 62, Haarlem; +31 23 5115775; 

www.franshalsmuseum.nl 

GIGS 

Nils Fischer & Timbazo January 9 

De Doelen (Rotterdam) 

Francien van Tuinen & Jesse van Ruller 

January 22 De Doelen (Rotterdam) 

Golden Earring January 20 

Concertgebouw de Vereeniging (Nijmegen) 

Tanguarda January 23 De Doelen 

(Rotterdam) 

Francien van Tuinen & Jesse van Ruller 

January 26 Oosterpoort (Groningen) 

Info and tickets: www.livenation.nl 


Miniature city Madurodam, all of Holland in just one city! 

The world-famous miniature city Madurodam, which is located within a stone’s throw of Amsterdam, is an excellent 

place to familiarise with all the surprising features the Netherlands has to offer. The Alkmaar cheese market, 

the Peace Palace of The Hague, the Royal Palace on the Amsterdam Dam Square, the Cathedral Tower of Utrecht, 

the canal houses of Amsterdam, and parts of the Delta works, everything Holland is famous for can be found 

replicated to the smallest detail on a scale of 1:25. 

Open year round. 

www.madurodam.nl George Maduroplein 1 | 2584 RZ The Hague | T +31 (0)70 416 24 00

Hendrick Avercamp: Detail from Winter Landscape with Skaters (c. 1608). Rodchenko: Lily Brik. Knigi 

poster (1924). © A. Rodchenko, V. Stepanova, Archive Moscow House of Photography Museum 

Light on their 

toes 

On its fi rst visit to The Netherlands, 

the National Ballet of China 

performs this tragic tale of love and 

rivalry, based on the eponymous 

fi lm by director Zhang Yimou. 

RAISE THE RED LANTERN January 4, 6, 7, 

10; Muziektheater, Amstel 3; +31 20 

6255455; www.muziektheater.nl 

EVENTS 

REALISME 07 January 14-17 

This art fair focuses on contemporary 

fi gurative and realistic art by Dutch and 

international artists. 

PTA (Passenger Terminal Amsterdam), Piet 

Heinkade 27; +31 20 6264020; 

www.realismeamsterdam.com 

JUMPING AMSTERDAM 

January 21-24 

Some of the world’s top riders compete in 

show jumping and dressage events. 

RAI, Europaplein 22; +31 20 5445720; 

www.jumpingamsterdam.nl 

PARADISO KORENDAGEN 

January 23, 24 

The annual ‘Choir Days’ weekend sees a 

plethora of amateur choirs perform within a 

former church building. 

Paradiso, Weteringschans 6-8; +31 20 6264521; 

www.paradiso.nl 

MAKING A POINT 

AMSTERDAM INTERNATIONAL FASHION 

WEEK January 27-31 

Dutch and international fashion take to 

catwalks across the city. 

Various locations; 

www.amsterdamfashionweek.com 

EXHIBITIONS 

NIET NORMAAL (NOT NORMAL) 

Until March 7 

Art and science come together to confront 

the question: what is normal? 

Beurs van Berlage, Beursplein 1; 

www.nietnormaal.nl 

HENDRICK AVERCAMP: THE LITTLE ICE 

AGE Until February 15 

Fascinating, historic 

17th-century winter 

landscapes by this 

Amsterdam-born painter. 

Rijksmuseum, Jan Luykenstraat 1; 

+31 20 674700; www.rijksmuseum.nl 

Amsterdam UPDATE 

ALEXANDER RODCHENKO: REVOLUTION 

IN PHOTOGRAPHY Until March 17 

More than 200 vintage 

photographs provide a 

unique overview of the 

world-famous Russian 

avant-garde artist 

Rodchenko (1891-1956). 

Foam, Keizersgracht 609; +31 20 5516500; 

www.foam.nl 

OMAN Until April 18 

Around 300 top pieces from various museum 

collections. The exhibition dwells on Oman’s 

role as a seafaring nation and its central 

location on international trade routes, such 

as those of the Dutch East India Company. 

De Nieuwe Kerk, Dam; +31 20 6386909; 

www.nieuwekerk.nl 

RESTAURANT 

ABYSSINIA 

Spacious and relaxed, this African restaurant 

specialises in authentic Ethiopian and 

Eritrean (Abyssinian) dishes. Forego the 

cutlery and use an enjera (pancake) to pick 

up the chef’s spicy delights, such as doro 

wot (chicken stew). Complement the meal 

with honey wine or a selection of Mongozo 

beers. 

Jan Pieter Heijestraat 190; +31 20 6830792; 

www.abyssinia.nl 

GIGS 

Heavy Trash January 17, Melkweg 

Dropkick Murphys January 31, Heineken 

Music Hall 

Ian Brown January 31, Paradiso 

WEBSITES 

www.dutchnews.nl 

Daily Dutch news in English 

www.specialbite.com 

Cool and comprehensive restaurant reviews 

www.underwateramsterdam.com 

Events and info galore 

www.amsterdam.info 

Useful tourist information 

www.lastminuteticketshop.nl 

Half-price tickets to events 

REMEMBER! This copy of Holland Herald is 

yours to take off the plane. 


ARUBABARBADOSBONAIRECAYMAN BRACST. CROIXST. MAARTEN 

DIVI FLAMINGO 

Beach Resort in BONAIRE 

Colorful and fun, the Divi Flamingo is the perfect base for your 

next Caribbean adventure. Enjoy oceanfront and garden hotel 

rooms, studio suites, 2 freshwater swimming pools, open-air 

dining, and our own PADI gold palm dive center. Enjoy evenings 

at the lively Balashi Beach Bar, or take an easy stroll to the capital 

city Kralendijk. Dive and snorkel by day—Divi Dive Flamingo 

features an experienced multi-lingual dive crew, custom dive 

boats, dive instruction, and house reef for shore diving. 

Divi Caribbean Resorts. 

Some call it paradise. We call it home. 

 

 

 

 

Reserve by 

February 28, 2010 

for travel thru 

December 18, 2010 

 

diviresorts.com/hollandherald 

or call 

800-367-3484 

Offer valid for travel thru 12/18/10. 

Offer subject to availability.

DIVE INTO BONAIRE 

WHAT TO SEE 

Island feel 

Explore the cactus-hemmed 

trails in Rooi Lamoenchi 

Reserve (www.webpagecur. 

com/rooilamoenchi), with its 

aloe vera fi elds. For Bonaire’s 

past, visit Fort Oranje in 

Kralendijk, or the slave huts from 

the island’s pre-emancipation 

era, a chastening reminder of the 

island’s salt trade. 

WHERE TO EAT 

Net gains 

Seafood is an island speciality, 

cooked in a variety of zingy 

sauces, and drawn from more 

than 70 different cultures. 

International menus dominate 

Bonaire’s restaurants, although 

kuminda Krioyo (traditional 

Creole cooking), can still be 

found. Head to Salsa (www. 

salsabonaire.com) for stylish 

fusion dishes, or It Rains Fishes 

(www:itrainsfi shesbonaire.com) 

for the catch of the day. China 

Nobo (www.chinanobobonaire. 

com) serves award-winning 

noodles. 

WHERE TO BOOGIE 

Chill hot spots 

As befi ts a laid-back Caribbean 

island, Bonaire’s nightlife is casual 

and fuss-free. Join a sun-kissed 

surfer crowd at the Jibe City 

Beach Bar (www.jibecity.com), 

or party at Karel’s Beach Bar 

(www.karelsbeachbar.com) till 

dawn. Sophisticated night-owls 

will revel in Little Havana’s 

WAY TO GO... 

Coral reefs and silver sands 

This idyllic island in the southern Caribbean offers underwater attractions against a 

backdrop of mango groves and palm-lined silver sands. It has played a pioneering role 

in the preservation of the marine environment, and is famed for its excellent scuba 

diving, snorkelling, and windsurfi ng. 

Photo: iStockphoto 

(www.littlehavanabonaire.com) 

mellow jazz. 


KLM Royal Dutch Airlines 

operates fi ve direct weekly 

fl ights to Bonaire Flamingo 

International Airport from 

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. 

Tourist information 

www.tourismbonaire.com 

Looking for handy, up-to-date 

travel information? Check out 

KLM’s Destination Guide pages 

– and book your fl ight – on 

www.klm.com. Content 

provided by Frommer’s 

Unlimited © 2010, 

Whatsonwhen Limited. 

TOUCHDOWN Bonaire 

DON’T MISS 

Watch the 

birdie 

Dive into the crystal-clear, 

fi sh-fi lled warm waters and 

protected coral reefs in the 

Washington Slagbaai 

National Park, where 

pastel-coloured sponge 

gardens meet powdery sand. 

At sunset, head over to the 

park’s Goto Lake to watch 

thousands of fl amingos feed. 

www.washingtonparkbonaire. 

org 

IN THE PINK 


Photo: iStockhoto 

Photo: iStockphoto

Nairobi TOUCHDOWN 

THE BUSTLING CENTRE 

DON’T MISS 

Go wild 

Safari favourites, such as lion, 

rhino, buffalo and hippo, 

roam the Nairobi National 

Park, an untamed tract of 

savannah in Langata. Despite 

its suburban location, the 

park has an unfenced 

southern boundary, crossed 

seasonally by migratory 

herds of wildebeest, zebra 

and gazelle. 

Langata Road; +254 20 

602121; www.kws.org 

SEEN AND HERD 



Into Africa 

East Africa’s most vital metropolis, Nairobi is also Kenya’s holiday capital and the home 

of safari. Full of boundless energy, the city is a place of great contrasts, where race and 

tribe combine in a unique ‘Nairobi character’. 

WHAT TO SEE 

Heads up 

The AFEW Giraffe Centre 

(www.giraffecenter.org) lets 

visitors get up close to these 

lofty creatures, while orphaned 

rhino and elephant are nursed 

at the David Sheldrick 

Wildlife Trust (www. 

sheldrickwildlifetrust.org). 

Bomas of Kenya (www. 

bomasofkenya.co.ke) 

showcases Kenya’s rich cultural 

mosaic, while the Nairobi 

National Museum (www. 

museums.or.ke), in Westlands, 

portrays the country’s natural 

and ethnic history. 

WHERE TO SHOP 

Crafty bargaining 

For most visitors, African 


A CITY OF CONTRASTS 

handicrafts are a priority. Head 

to Embakasi Market (Mombasa 

Road), or a similar venue, and 

prepare to bargain. For other 

shopping, the malls in Westlands, 

including the Sarit Centre 

(www.saritcentre.com), are more 

relaxed than in central Nairobi. 

WHERE TO EAT 

Traditional tastes 

The local staple of ugali (maize 

porridge) and stew is widely 

available, and many menus 

incorporate elements of spicy 

coastal Swahili cooking. 

Westlands has dozens of 

reasonable eateries, including 

the Indian Haandi Restaurant 

(+254 20 4448294), as does 

Hurlingham, home to the Blue 

Nile Ethiopian Restaurant 

(+254 20 2728709). 


KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, 

together with Kenya Airways, 

operates two direct daily fl ights 

to Nairobi International Airport 

from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. 


www.magicalkenya.com 









Photo: Hollandse Hoogte

Istanbul TOUCHDOWN 

DON’T MISS 

Rooms with a 

view 

Istanbul’s Archaeology 

Museum houses over one 

million objects, representing 

almost all the world’s eras 

and civilizations. The 

collection is so vast, it has to 

be divided between three 

buildings, in the grounds of 

the Topkapi Palace in 

Sultanahmet. 

Osman Hamdi Bey Yokosu, 

Sultanahmet; +90 212 

5207740/41 

ACRES OF ANTIQUITY 


BARTER AT A BAZAAR 

WHAT TO SEE 

Give it a whirl 

Discover Ottoman history at the 

breathtakingly beautiful Topkapi 

Palace (www.topkapisarayi.gov. 

tr) and under the huge domes 

of Hagia Sophia (www. 

hagiasophia.com). For more 

contemporary culture, visit the 

Istanbul Modern (www. 

istanbulmodern.org) art gallery. 

Go to busy Beyoglu for the 

Pera Museum (www. 

peramuzesi.org.tr) and Galata 

Mevlevihanesi Dervish Centre 

(15 Galip Dede Cadessi, Tunel; 

+90 212 2454141). 

WHERE TO SHOP 

Bazaars and 

boutiques 

Haggle for carpets at the 


THE DOMED GLORY OF HAGIA SOPHIA 

Rich mix 

As befi ts this year’s European Capital of Culture, Istanbul mixes its rich and varied 

history with an energy that’s exciting and intensely alive. Ottoman palaces and 

monumental mosques sit comfortably next to designer shops, chic restaurants 

and swanky bars. 

centuries-old Grand Bazaar 

(www.kapalicarsi.org.tr) and 

spices at the Egyptian Market. 

Nisantasi is fi lled with boutiques 

like Bahar Korcan (19/3 Isparta 

Palas, Abdi Ipekci Caddesi; +90 212 

2969276), while Istiklal Cadessi is 

the place for high-street fashion. 

WHERE TO EAT 

Here’s the buzz 

Beyoglu buzzes with eateries 

from trendy rooftop restaurants, 

such as 360Istanbul (www. 

360istanbul.com) and Leb-i 

Derya Richmond (www. 

lebiderya.com), to fresh-fi sh 

meyhane (taverns). In the old 

town, kebab dinners are the order 

of the day, including Hamdi 

Restaurant (www.hamdirestorant. 

com.tr) and Sultanahmet 

Koftecisi (12a Divan Yolu; 

+90 212 5131438). 



operates two direct daily fl ights to 

Istanbul Ataturk Airport from 



www.tourismturkey.org 









Photo: iStockphoto

Cool new resort.The Caribbean’s hottest island. 

The Dutch Caribbean’s finest luxury residential resort community 

featuring the Hyatt Regency Curaçao Resort & Spa, Pete Dye’s Old Quarry 

golf course and the Seru Boca Marina. For more information 

call Jan-Peter Klijn at +599 9 767-3405 or mobile +599 9 670-4270. 

www.santabarbaraplantation.com

MELLOW MUSCAT 

Best of both worlds 

Although steeped in history and tradition, Oman’s mellow capital city refl ects both 

past and present. The twisting alleyways of the old town, and the souks of Muttrah, 

contrast with the buzzing, fast-developing areas of Ruwi and Qurm. 

WHAT TO SEE 

Top views 

A climb up to Mirani Fort (Qasr 

Al Alam Street) offers views 

over Muscat old town’s harbour. 

Muttrah’s souks and harbour 

are perfect to explore on foot, 

while discreet dress is required 

to visit the huge Sultan 

Qaboos Grand Mosque in 

Ruwi, which showcases creative 

contemporary Islamic 

architecture. 

WHERE TO SHOP 

Seek the souks 

Join the crowds who fl ock to 

Oman’s famous Muttrah souk, 

or barter at the fi sh market. 

MCC (Muscat City Centre) and 

the malls of the Qurm district 

are the designer shopper’s 

destination of choice. Souvenir 

hunters head to the galleries in 

Muscat old town’s winding 

streets or the Omani 

Heritage Gallery (www. 

omaniheritage.com). 

WHERE TO EAT 

Currying fl avour 

International restaurants reside in 

Muscat’s smart hotels, including 

seafood specialist The Beach 

Restaurant, at the Chedi Hotel 

(www.ghmhotels.com). The spicy 

Indian cuisine of Muttrah’s 

Mumtaz Mahal (www.akgc.net/ 

mumtaz.php) leads the way 

among the city’s many curry 

houses. Affordable restaurants 

Photo: www.visitoman.nl 

IN TOUCH WITH TRADITION 

producing Omani kebabs, cluster 

in Al Khuwair. 



operates fi ve fl ights a week to 

Muscat Seeb International Airport 

from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol 


www.omantourism.gov.om 









TOUCHDOWN Muscat 

DON’T MISS 

Village life 

Standing within a full-scale, 

replica Omani village, Bait al 

Zubair is a traditional 

whitewashed Muscat 

dwelling, displaying 

household implements, 

embroidered costumes and 

silver khanjars (daggers) 

from a single family 

collection. A souk and 

irrigation system are also 

located in the grounds. 

As-Saidiya Street, Old 

Muscat; +968 24 736688 

HOUSE VISIT 


Photo: www.visitoman.nl

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HEAD FOR RED SQUARE 

Magnifi cent metropolis 

A trip to Moscow is a visit to a dynamic capital. Shop for designer labels in Kuznetsky 

Most, discover hip new clubs in Kitai Gorod, and eat at plush restaurants along 

Tverskaya. And don’t be shy of venturing further afi eld on the city’s superb metro 

system. 

WHAT TO SEE 

Fair square 

Moscow’s main sites – including 

the Kremlin (www.kreml.ru) and 

the Pushkin Museum of Fine 

Arts (www.museum.ru) – lie 

within a mile of Red Square. The 

fi nal resting places of 

Khrushchev, Chekhov and 

Prokofi ev can be found at the 

Novodevichy Cemetery (2 

Luzhnetski Proezd), while 

Prospect Mira is home to the 

Stalinist architecture of the All- 

Russia Exhibition Centre 

(www.vvcentre.ru). 

WHERE TO SHOP 

Versace and 

vodka 

Kuznetsky Most and 

Stoleshnikov Pereulok offer 

designer labels, with 

international fashion chains 

clustered along Tverskaya. The 

Izmailovsky Market (www. 

moscow-vernisage.com) and its 

souvenirs are east of the city. 

Vodka, caviar and other gifts 

can also be found at the prerevolutionary 

Eliseyevsky 

Magazin (www.eliseevskiy.ru). 


Clubbing together 

Moscow’s renowned nightlife can 

be found everywhere in the city, 

from alternative venues in 

Kurskaya to cool clubs on 

Savvinskaya Naberezhnaya – 

home of current hotspot Soho 

Rooms (www.sohorooms.com). 

Clubs don’t really get going until 


ALL DOLLED UP 

the early hours, and many pubs 

and bars open round the clock. 


KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, 

together with Aerofl ot, operates 

four direct daily fl ights to Moscow 

Sheremetyevo Airport from 



www.visitrussia.org.uk 









TOUCHDOWN Moscow 

DON’T MISS 

Tomb tribute 

Lenin’s Mausoleum, on Red 

Square, houses its famous 

corpse within a 1930s’ 

Constructivist masterpiece. 

Visitors include more tourists 

than die-hard Bolsheviks 

these days, but the whole 

place is a pretty impressive 

reminder of how things 

used to be. 

www.aha.ru/~mausoleu 

HERE LIES LENIN 


Photo: iStockhoto 

Photo: iStockphoto

Photo: Jim Simandl 

Johannesburg TOUCHDOWN 

DON’T MISS 

Performance 

piazza 

Nelson Mandela Square in 

Sandton stages art 

performances and shows 

around a symbolic bronze 

statue of Mandela, erected 

to commemorate the birth of 

the Rainbow Nation. Trendy 

cafés, restaurants and shops 

frame the space. www. 

nelsonmandelasquare.com 

THE FULL NELSON 


Photo: Solly van Staden 

CRAFTWORK IN ROSEBANK 

WHAT TO SEE 

Great prospects 

Top of Africa, in the Central 

Business District, has great city 

views (Commissioner Street 

150; +27 11 3081331). Go 

prospecting at Gold Reef City 

(www.goldreefcity.co.za) or 

jump to the beginning of 

evolution at the Origins 

Centre (Yale Road 1; +27 11 

7174700). 

WHERE TO SHOP 

Fashion and 

fabrics 

Sandton’s shopping malls 

appeal to the label-conscious, 

while Oriental Plaza in 

Fordsburg has precious Indian 

fabrics. Rosebank’s daily 

African Craft Market sells 

original pieces to the sound of 

bongo beats. Thrupps (www. 

Photo: iWalter Knirr 

TRY YOUR LUCK AT THE GOLD REEF CITY CASINO 

Malls, meals and music 

Affectionately known as Jozi, the largest city in sub-Saharan Africa is a place of 

super-mall shopping, great restaurants and a buzzing nightlife. You can travel back 

in time at the Origins Centre, or get up close to the wildlife at nearby game reserves 

(and at the city’s great zoo). 

thrupps.co.za) is Johannesburg’s 

oldest food and wine shop. 

WHERE TO EAT 

Touch of class 

Top-notch international 

restaurants, including the 

authentic Indian Bukhara 

(www.bukhara.com), crowd the 

classy suburb of Sandton, 

which is also home to the fi vestar 

Auberge Michel (www. 

aubergemichel.co.za). Head to 

Melrose Arch and Newtown 

for the full-fl avoured babotie 

(mince casserole), or sample 

it in Soweto for a more 

authentic experience. 


Frills – or chill 

Dressing up is your ticket to 

Jozi’s club scene, particularly in 

Rosebank and Sandton. 

Sunninghill’s Movida (www. 

movida.co.za) is club and 

theatre in one. 



operates one daily direct fl ight 

to Johannesburg O. R. Tambo 

International Airport from 



www.joburg.org.za 








Whatsonwhen Limited.

Photo contest 

HOT AIR BALLOONS OVER CAPPADOCIA, TURKEY, PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID HONL 

See the world! 

How does it work? 

There’s a new theme every three months. 

At the end of the fourth quarter (March 

2010), KLM will award the Grand Prize to 

the overall winner. 

What theme? 

For January, February and March 2010, 

the theme is Landscapes. 


Don’t be late… 

Entries for the Landscapes category must 

be received by April 6, 2010. See our 

website below for submission details. 

Feeling inspired? 

Check out other beautiful shots from 

previous winners at: 

www.hollandherald.nl 

BAOBAB TREES, MADAGASCAR, PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDRES HAALAND AANO 

If you provide 

the year’s best 

shot, you’ll be 

globetrotting before 

you can say “where 

did I put my 

passport?” 

What can you win? 

THE GRAND PRIZE 

A round-the-world ticket for the 

annual, overall winner 

CONTEST RULES • Photographs larger than 10x15cm cannot 

be accepted • Photographs will not be returned • Holland Herald, 

KLM and the publishers, MediaPartners Group, accept no responsibility 

for lost material • Copyright clearance and permission of subjects 

are the responsibility of the photographers. KLM and 

MediaPartners Group acquire the rights for future use of the images. 

• The competition is open to readers of Holland Herald who 

are 18 years of age or older on the date of entry, and who have 

flown with KLM during the same period as the theme category • 

Entrants for the Grand Prize will be notified as soon as possible 

after the closing date of the theme category • Employees of KLM 

and MediaPartners Group, participating promotional agencies, 

contributors to Holland Herald, and the families of any of the 

above are not eligible to enter this competition • The judges’ decisions 

are final • The Grand Prize cannot be exchanged for cash.

AGRO-INDUSTRY 

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Prices subject to change without notice - only 35 ownerships remain. 

ADVERTISING FEATURE 

Siat is an agro-industrial group of companies 

specialized in the establishment and 

management of industrial as well as 

smallholders’ plantations, allied processing 

and downstream industries. The main focus of the 

tree crops rests on oil palm and rubber. The group 

recently diversified its activities into cattle ranching. 

Currently the Group owns 45.000 ha of palm oil 

plantations, 15.000 ha of rubber trees and a cattle 

ranch with 6.000 animals. The Group achieves 

a yearly turnover of 114 million euro and carries 

out its corporate responsibility by taking a long 

term approach to strategic decision-making that 

recognizes the interests of its staff, shareholders, 

business partners, consumers, and the world-wide 

economies in which it operates. 

Spread over its subsidiaries in Nigeria, Ghana, 

Gabon and Ivory Coast, Siat employs over 8.000 

people. The head office is located in Brussels. 

The Group strongly believes in an environmentally 

responsible management and firmly cares about 

its social responsibilities. For example, all factory 

waste of the oil mills is recycled into the plantation 

or used as fuel to generate “green process” 

steam and electricity. The company also assists 

communities with education and social infrastructure 

development such as roads, potable water, 

electricity, dispensaries and the like. These actions 

aim at creating commitment and stability, which in 

turn provides security for the Group’s investments. 

Siat is constantly looking for new opportunities 

and for dynamic, motivated people to join its team. 

For more information and our current vacancies 

please visit our website www.siat.be or contact us 

on the following e-mail address: jobs@siat.be

QL Hotels 

Quality with distinction 

Villa Ruimzicht 

Doetinchem, the Netherlands 

Hotel Villa Ruimzicht is situated in a historical 

building that dates back to 1853. The building 

had previously been in long-term use as a 

theological education centre. It has since been 

extensively renovated and is now a 4 star hotel 

and restaurant, near the German border. Hotel 

Villa Ruimzicht’s historical ambience combines 

wonderfully with its contemporary interior. The 

premises are surrounded by a beautiful arboretum. 

42 guest rooms, fine dining and cookery studio 

www.hotelvillaruimzicht.nl 

Win a superb stay at 

- Librije’s Hotel - 

the hotel of three star Michelin chef Jonnie Boer 

Hotel Estate Het Roode Koper 

Leuvenum, the Netherlands 

When Count van Limburg Stirum, former governor 

of Dutch Indonesia, founded the Roode Koper 

estate, he couldn’t have picked a better location. 

Leuvenum, with its extensive woodlands and 

babbling brook, proved to be the ideal setting for 

a country house, its outhouses and English style 

garden. It has become a valued retreat for guests 

seeking solitude and nature as well as for those who 

enjoy life to the full. Large terrace with garden view. 

30 guest rooms, fine dining, outdoor swimming 

pool and tennis court 

www.roodekoper.nl 

Surf to www.qlhotels.com/fly-to-quality to enter the competition 

Hotel Stempels 

Haarlem, the Netherlands 

At Stempels you are welcome to eat, drink and 

sleep at the premises of the former Johan Enschedé 

complex, where for many years the Dutch banknotes 

and postage stamps for numerous different 

countries were printed. In other words, a place 

with a rich history, renovated and converted into 

a modern hotel-restaurant, bursting with cosy 

atmosphere, right in the monumental city centre 

of Haarlem. 

17 guest rooms, fine dining 

www.stempelsinhaarlem.nl

Hotel De Zon 

Ommen, the Netherlands 

a unique combination of wining, 

dining and overnight stays 

Hotel De Zon in Ommen is splendidly situated 

on the bank of the river Vecht. Not only is the 

location unique, but because the building dates 

back to 1893, it has its own special ambience. This 

is enhanced by the old, spacious rooms, which are 

still modern and well-appointed. With a collection 

of paintings by famous Dutch contemporary artists. 

The terrace, on the banks of the river Vecht, is 

divine. Winner Dutch Hotel Award 2009. 


www.hoteldezon.nl 

www.qlhotels.com 

Hotel Le Val d’Amblève 

Stavelot, Belgium 

Le Val d‘Amblève is situated in the very heart 

of the beautiful Ardennes area near Liège. It is 

surrounded by a magnificent park, tucked away 

behind majestic trees. The villa, built from local 

Ardennes stone, has recently been renovated 

and modernised. The recently opened annex is of 

contemporary design. Val d’Amblève offers you a 

relaxing stay and refined culinary delights. 


www.levaldambleve.be 

La Pura Vista 

Bonaire, Dutch Antilles 

Life on Bonaire is relaxed. The friendly atmosphere, 

the tempting climate and the beautiful scenery 

attract many people who come here to dive, 

snorkel, swim or read. To unwind, really. The 

charming La Pura Vista Hotel is situated in a 

pleasant residential area near the island’s capital, 

Kralendijk. The hotel offers stunning views across 

the island and the Caribbean sea. 

5 guest rooms, breakfast at the pool with sea view, 

fine dining nearby 

www.lapuravista.com 

Quality Lodgings is the exclusive collection of 

small-scale authentic hotels of outstanding quality 

in the Netherlands, Belgium and Dutch Antilles 

www.qlhotels.com

Travellers Check 

NEWS AND INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS 

contents 

Destination nature 87 

KLM news 88 

People & planet 91 

Flying Blue news 93 

KLM entertainment 93 

1953 

Smoothing a bumpy flight: 

while his fine-feathered 

friend acts as a calming 

influence, an elephant 

packs his trunk on board 

a KLM DC-4 aircraft. 

www.klm.com 94 

The fleet 96 

KLM route maps 98 

Schiphol, hub gates 104 

Fit for flying 105 

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 85 

Photo: KLM / MAI

ADVERTISEMENT 

Hotel Seven One Seven 

Hotel Seven One Seven offers the discerning business and leisure 

traveller all the grandeur of a classical 19th century guesthouse 

with all the modern conveniences to which one is entitled. Each 

guest is welcomed in an atmosphere of cordiality and full respect 

for complete privacy and comfort in this unique boutique hotel 

along the canal. 

Our package includes: 

- Breakfast 

- Afternoon tea 

- Refreshments cabinet 

- House wines 

- Wifi internet 

Nearby: 

- Vondel park 

- Restaurants 

- Museums 

Corporate contract 

possible 

Please contact the hotel 

for the best rates. 

info@717hotel.nl 

+31 20 42 70 717 

www.717hotel.nl 

The magnifi cent facade of 

the house – a listed historical 

building with dark green 

shutters – merely provides 

a hint of the beauty of the 

interior. The front of the 

Seven One Seven opens to 

an old marble hallway, from 

which an oak stairway leads 

to two splendid grand suites 

overlooking the 17th century 

Prinsengracht canal in front of 

the house, and to six spacious 

suites and rooms at the back 

overlooking the patio.

Paws for thought 

POLAR BEARS FORAGE FURTHER FOR FOOD 

KLM’s daily workplace is a world full of 

natural beauty, and rich in diversity. To 

help sustain and protect the (sometimes 

fragile) biodiversity in the destinations 

to which it fl ies, the airline has set up a 

programme called Destination Nature 

to support and actively encourage the 

conservation objectives of projects and 

environmental organisations, such as 

the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF). 

Through WWF’s Dutch branch (Wereld 

Natuur Fonds, or WNF), KLM endorses and 

promotes WWF ventures worldwide, from 

marine reserve protection in Kenya to river 

basin revitalisation in China. 

Pole position 

The Arctic is among the regions where the 

WWF is active. It is also where the effects 

of climate change are felt more keenly 

than anywhere else on earth. Of particular 

concern is the rate at which sea ice is 

melting and how this is affecting the daily 

life cycle, and ultimate survival, of one of 

the region’s indigenous inhabitants – the 

polar bear. 

Sea ice is the polar bear’s natural 

habitat. It is where they hunt for food – 

mainly seals. Any reduction in the ice 

has serious knock-on effects for the 

animal’s daily round. Because sea ice is 

now thawing sooner and freezing later 

in the year, polar bears have to forage 

further for food, and have less time to build 

up valuable energy and stored fats for 

themselves and their cubs. 

Monitoring by the WWF has also 

indicated other noticeable behavioural 

shifts, including lower reproductive and 

ARCTIC TEMPERATURES ARE RISING 

KLM DESTINATION NATURE 

growth rates, lower adult survival, altered 

movement and den areas, increased bearhuman 

interactions, and a reduction in 

population size. 

In the fi eld 

As well as deploying fi eld workers to 

collect data and information in the Arctic 

region, WWF supports long-term research 

by organisations such as the Norwegian 

Polar Institute into the effects of climate 

change on polar bears and sea ice in 

Spitsbergen and Svalbard. This includes 

‘tracking’ polar bears using GPS transmitters 

– an activity which everyone can follow on 

the WWF website www.panda.org. 

“Higher temperatures are having a 

direct effect not only on polar bears in 

Hudson Bay, but on populations across 

the Arctic,” says Geoff York, Polar Bear 

“Any reduction in the 

ice has serious 

knock-on effects” 

Conservation Coordinator for WWF’s 

International Arctic Programme. “It is 

important people realise that it is not too 

late to reverse these trends.” 

For more information on WWF’s activities 

in the Arctic, and elsewhere, visit 

www.panda.org. Details about KLM’s 

Destination Nature programme can be 

found on www.klm.com/csr – scroll down 

under ‘The Community’. 

See also ‘Keeping it cool’, pages 32-38, 

for some stunning photography by 

Jan Vermeer, taken in both Arctic and 

Antarctic regions. 

Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 87

KLM NEWS 

Back to Bali 

KLM has resumed its service between 

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol and 

Denpasar Ngura Rai Airport Bali. 

There are three fl ights a week, with an 

intermediate landing in Singapore. In 

addition, KLM’s SkyTeam partner Alitalia 

has begun a direct service between Turin 

and Amsterdam. Currently, fl ights operate 

on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursday and 

Fridays. From January 17, another fl ight on 

Tuesdays will be added. 

88 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 

“Choose Economy Comfort for more legroom and recline" 

Sitting pretty 

Choose for more comfort on all KLM 

long-haul fl ights! Starting this month, 

Economy Comfort is a dedicated zone in 

Economy Class offering seating with up to 

ten centimetres more legroom, and back 

supports that recline twice as far. 

Depending on the duration of your 

fl ight, the price of seats in the zone is 

A FISH DISH FROM MARGOT 

between €80 and €150 for a single 

journey leg. Flying Blue Gold members 

can benefi t from a 50% discount while 

Silver members can save 25%. 

You can buy or reserve seats in 

Economy Comfort from 30 hours up to 30 

minutes before departure through 

Internet check-in at www.klm.com, or at 

self-service kiosks, transfer kiosks, or 

ticket offi ces. 

Seats booked through ‘Manage My 

Booking’ at www.klm.com, or via the 

KLM Service Centre or KLM Telephone 

Reservations, are available from 90 days 

up to 48 hours before departure. 

For Flying Blue Platinum members and 

passengers travelling on a fully fl exible 

Economy Class fare (X, S or B booking 

classes), Economy Comfort is free of 

charge. These travellers can also make 

their reservation via a travel agent, from 

90 days up to 30 minutes before fl ight 

departure. 

For more information on Economy 

Comfort, please visit www.klm.com 

Top tastes 

Renowned Dutch chef Margot Janse 

has built up a considerable reputation 

at Le Quartier Français restaurant in 

Franschhoek, South Africa. Now KLM’s 

World Business Class passengers can also 

sample her culinary skills on board most 

long-haul fl ights. Drawing her inspiration 

from classic French cooking techniques, 

Margot has created some delicious dishes 

to savour, served with fl avoursome South 

African wines. Eet smakelijk!

Spirit

Treat your biz to a bonus. 

Enrol on klm.com/bluebiz and earn free flights. 

BlueBiz is KLM’s company loyalty programme. 

Sign up now and your business will be given Blue Credits on every trip. On top of your Flying Blue Miles. 

You can redeem your Blue Credits for free flights, for business or leisure, for anyone in your company. 

Not enrolled? You should be. For more information visit www.klm.com/bluebiz.

Bridging the 

digital divide 

Every year, millions of 

passengers board KLM fl ights 

with a burning desire to discover 

new lands. Unfortunately, these 

countries can also be home to 

children in need – a need outlined in 

the UN Millennium Development 

Goals. KLM AirCares offers 

promotional, logistical and fi nancial 

support to NGOs to help them 

achieve these goals. 

Access to IT technology and the 

transfer of knowledge is another 

identifi ed goal. To this end, KLM 

supports Close the Gap, an 

MAKE IT CLICK WITH CLOSE THE GAP 

international, non-profi t organisation 

which offers cost-effi cient, highquality, 

used IT equipment to projects 

in developing countries. 

Schools, universities, hospitals and 

other institutions wishing to improve 

their educational and information 

facilities can ask for support from 

Close the Gap. As well as donating 

computers, KLM helps Close the Gap 

transport IT equipment to several 

destinations worldwide. 

To donate money and/or Flying 

Blue Miles to this or any other 

AirCares charity, please visit www. 

aircares.nl or make a donation during 

this fl ight (see the last page of our 

shopping section in this issue). For 

more information on Close the Gap, 

visit www.close-the-gap.org 

Loss of biodiversity is one of the 

biggest threats facing our planet. 

Reason enough for the United Nations to 

designate 2010 as ‘International Year of 

Biodiversity’, which is aiming to halt 

biodiversity decrease (currently, up to 100 

times greater than the natural rate of 

extinction) and to increase awareness of 

its importance for our own well-being. 

Governments throughout the world 

have committed themselves to 

substantially reducing the rate at which 

biodiversity loss is occurring. In addition, 

individual corporations and companies are 

calling for a fi rm ‘climate policy’, in which 

forest preservation can act as an effective 

weapon in the battle against climate 

change. Last year, over 500 company 

CEOs worldwide signed the Copenhagen 

Communiqué on Climate Change, drawn up 

by the Prince of Wales’s Corporate Leaders 

Group on Climate Change and Cambridge 

University in the UK. Needless to say, KLM 

also signed this declaration. 

Change in Copenhagen 

The communiqué called for a decisive 

agreement at the UN Climate Change 

Conference in Copenhagen last December 

that will result in tough guidelines for CO 2 

reduction, fossil fuel replacement, and 

deforestation decrease. According to the 

International Union for the Conservation 

of Nature (IUCN) in The Netherlands, the 

KLM PEOPLE & PLANET 

Fauna and 

fl ora thrive on 

biodiversity 

Making a difference 

latter is especially essential in combating 

climate change and its effects. The loss 

and degradation of forest land caused by 

human intervention is (indirectly) 

responsible for 20% of carbon dioxide 

emissions. 

KLM’s input in combating climate 

change rests mainly in CO 2 reduction. With 

its young, modern fl eet, a successful fueleffi 

ciency policy and the compensation 

service CO 2 ZERO for passengers, the 

airline occupies a leading position in this 

sector. 

Destination Nature 

In addition, KLM also delivers a positive 

contribution to sustaining biodiversity 

through its Destination Nature 

programme, which incorporates a number 

of projects supported by the World Wide 

“KLM delivers a 

positive contribution 

to sustaining 

biodiversity” 

Fund for Nature (WWF). The programme 

provides fi nancial help and valuable 

publicity for specifi c nature conservation 

ventures. For example, WWF’s Climate 

Control Project at the North Pole, which 

you can read about on page 87. 


Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles... 

Exceptional moments for valued customers. 

Whether you’re traveling to discover new places, 

enjoy family weekends or on business, it’s essential 

to make the most of every second. With the benefits 

that the Flying Blue frequent flyer programme offers, 

you become a privileged customer, recognized by 

AIR FRANCE and KLM and every SkyTeam alliance 

airline. 

Thanks to our network of over 900 destinations, every 

trip is a new opportunity to earn Miles. With over 

100 partners worldwide, there are lots of ways to 

enjoy your Miles. Whether it’s a flight to a destination 

You can sign up online at 

klm.com or airfrance.com 

you’ve always wanted to explore, a stay in a luxury hotel, 

or countless other ways to spend your Miles, the choice 

is yours. 

As you travel more and more with us, we reward your 

loyalty by multiplying the services you can enjoy, 

to make every trip a moment that stands apart. 

Photo Credits: Steen Sundland.

KLM ENTERTAINMENT 

Look at this! 

State-of-the-art entertainment is 

available on all intercontinental KLM 

fl ights.* Just a few clicks will bring you 

to a virtual world of... 

Watching 

Instant access to over 85 movies, available 

in various languages. 

Listening 

Compile your own playlist or select a 

specifi c CD. 

Interaction 

Text or e-mail messages via the IFE 

system a mile above the Atlantic! 

Stimulation 

Games and information galore - or learn a 

language. 

THE LEGEND LIVES ON IN ‘THIS IS IT’ 

THE LATEST INFLIGHT MOVIES 

Away We Go (Comedy) 

Cloudy With A Chance Of Meatballs 

(Comedy) 

District 9 (Sci-Fi/Fantasy) 

Fame (Musical/Performing Arts) 

Inglourious Basterds (Action/Adventure) 

Komt Een Vrouw Bij De Dokter (Drama) 

Love Happens (Drama) 

Motherhood (Drama) 

The Informant! (Comedy) 

This Is It (Musical/Performing Arts) 

Too much choice? 

Check out our online movie guide 

before your next fl ight at www.klm.com 

(select: Travel Information; On Board; 

Entertainment). 

* With the exception of Economy Class on 

Boeing 747-400s, where phased retrofi tting is 

currently in progress. 

How to join Flying Blue 

Earn both Level and Award Miles 

with AIR FRANCE KLM’s loyalty 

programme, Flying Blue. Award Miles 

can be redeemed for fl ights and 

products from over 130 partners 

worldwide. Level Miles count towards a 

higher membership tier, each offering 

benefi ts such as access to airport 

lounges and extra baggage allowance. 

For further details or to enrol, simply 

visit www.klm.com 

KLM FLYING BLUE NEWS 

A great treat 

BENEFIT FROM EXTRA AWARD MILES 

Just a few Award Miles short of booking your dream holiday? You can now buy the 

extra Award Miles you need in increments of 2,000 up to a maximum of 40,000 Miles per 

purchase, per calendar year. It’s also a great gift for a special someone! Just send us his 

or her e-mail address or Flying Blue card number, and we’ll make sure your gift is credited 

to the correct account. For details, visit the Flying Blue section at www.klm.com 

Go Global 

Visiting the Winter Olympics? Lazing on 

a beach in Malaysia? Whatever your 

desination, the Global Hotel Alliance 

offers great accommodation. Flying Blue 

members can earn double Miles at any Pan 

Pacifi c or Parkroyal hotel or resort within 

the alliance from January 1 to February 28. 

For reservations and more information, visit 

www.gha.com 

Room(s) for more 

Increase your pleasure in cities like 

Brussels, Hamburg, Lisbon, Milan, Rome or 

Vienna by booking accommodation within 

the NH Hoteles group. From January 1 until 

February 28, Flying Blue members can earn 

double Miles! In addition, new NH Hoteles 

awards are now available. Check the Flying 

Blue pages at www.klm.com for details, or 

visit www.nh-hotels.com 

NH NHOW MILANO, ITALY 


WWW.KLM.COM 

Bags of time 

Comfort choice 

KLM now have some great choices to 

make your journey in Economy Class 

even more comfortable! 

To arrive rested for that important 

meeting, why not try the new Economy 

Comfort zone, in the front of the 

Economy Class cabin? It offers seats with 

12% more legroom than standard seating, 

and which recline twice as far! 

Or you can also choose more 

comfort by opting for an extra legroom 

MAGNIFICENT MEXICO 


“A website you can rely on for all your travel needs” 

Extra baggage no longer means extra 

time and hassle at the airport. KLM 

has introduced a simple solution: with 

just a few clicks you can reserve and pay 

for extra baggage when you check in 

online at www.klm.com 

By arranging this online, you not only 

save time at the airport, you also save 

up to 30% on the normal charges levied 

at the airport check-in desk. 

seat or a seat in a row of just two. 

These preferred seats are very easy 

to arrange: when checking in online, or 

at one of the kiosks at Amsterdam 

Airport Schiphol, they can be reserved 

for a nominal fee. 

Seats in the Economy Comfort zone 

can also be arranged via ‘Manage My 

Booking’ on www.klm.com: simply 

reserve up to 90 days before departure, 

and your comfort is assured!. 

Destinations uncovered 

Whether you’re looking for inspiration or 

you’re ready to book, our handy online 

Destination Guide offers up-to-date, outof-the-ordinary 

information and practical 

advice for over 100 countries. 

Covering restaurants, shopping, nightlife, 

events and things to do, the guide also 

has practical tips about transport, 

currencies, visa requirements and current 

weather forecasts. 

Destination Guide can be accessed via 

‘Travel Information’ at www.klm.com 

One-stop shop 

www.klm.com offers much more than 

just fl ight tickets. You’ll fi nd everything 

you need to get from home to your hotel 

and everything in between, including car 

rental, airport parking, and transport to and 

from a number of airports. 

We’ve made sure our prices are never 

higher than bookings made directly with 

our partners. Check out ‘klm.com - hotels, 

cars and more’ by scanning the special QR 

code above. 

MANY TRANSPORT OPTIONS AT WWW.KLM.COM 

KLM e-services make your 

travel planning faster, easier 

and more rewarding than ever. 

For example, you can tell us your 

travel experiences with a direct, 

easy-to-use link to KLM 

Customer Support via the Contact 

us button on the web site. Your 

communication can usually be 

handled within fi ve days. KLM offers 

a full range of services via its 

website www.klm.com

Our partners, your benefi ts 

AIR FRANCE KLM, Europe’s largest 

airline group, is a member of 

SkyTeam, an alliance of nine 

airlines and two associate airlines. 

This offers you a variety of benefi ts such 

as: 905 global destinations; access to 

more lounges worldwide; a coordinated 

timetable for improved connections; 

and more opportunities to earn Flying 

Blue Level and Award Miles. Award 

Miles can be spent on fl ights, or with 

Combined code-share and 

Flying Blue partners 

over 100 non-airline partners, such as 

Marriott and Hertz. Level Miles count 

towards a higher membership tier, 

each offering different benefi ts such as 

access to airport lounges and extra 

KLM and its main partners 

Other KLM partners 

Flying Blue partners 

KLM PARTNERS 

baggage allowance. Together with 

our new US joint venture partner, Delta 

Air Lines, we guarantee you a perfectly 

integrated network and superior 

customer service. 

Founded: 1933 / Home base: Paris 

Fleet size: 427** / Passengers: 52 million 

WWW.AIRFRANCE.COM 

** including Régional, Britair, Cityjet and VLM Airlines 

Founded: 1928 / Home base: Atlanta 

Fleet size: 1,015 / Passengers: 170 million 

WWW.DELTA.COM 

Founded: 1919 / Home base: Amsterdam 

Fleet size: 210* / Passengers: 22 million 

WWW.KLM.COM 

* including KLM Cityhopper, Martinair and transavia.com 

Code-share partners 

You can earn and/or spend Miles with all SkyTeam alliance members and KLM’s Flying Blue partners in Flying Blue, AIR FRANCE KLM’s loyalty program. For detailed information visit www.klm.com or 

www.airfrance.com. A code-share partner means that even though you have booked a KLM fl ight number, you may fi nd yourself travelling on a service operated by that partner. 


Artwork KLM fl eet: Hans Murris, KLM Engineering & Maintenance, SPL/WM 

KLM PLANE FACTS 

1920 May 17: the fi rst KLM fl ight 

from London to Amsterdam. 

1933 The Fokker F-XVIII Pelican 

sets a new record for the fl ight 

Amsterdam-Jakarta of four days, four 

hours and 35 minutes. 

1934 October: the McDonnell 

Douglas DC-2 Uiver wins fi rst prize 

in the handicap section, and 

second prize overall in the 

London-Melbourne Air Race. 

1946 KLM launches its 

scheduled service between 

Amsterdam and New York. 

1960 

KLM introduces the 

McDonnell Douglas DC-8 into its fl eet, 

marking the beginning of the ‘jet age’. 

1971 KLM’s fi rst Boeing 

747B heralds the start of the 

‘wide-body’ age. 

1989 KLM is the fi rst European 

airline to introduce the new 

generation 747-400s. 

2001 KLM is the fi rst European 

airline to introduce the next 

generation of 737-900s. 

2003-2004 KLM embarks 

on an extensive fl eet renewal 

programme. 

2005 KLM starts adding the 

fi rst of 12 Airbus A330-200 aircraft to 

its fl eet. 

2008 KLM’s fi rst two (out of 

a total of six) Boeing 777-300ERs are 

put into operation. 

Thanks to its effi cient network, 

its modern fl eet and many economical 

measures, KLM’s performance 

regarding fuel effi ciency is one of the 

best in Europe. The website www. 

klm.com/csr gives full information 

on KLM’s corporate social 

responsibilty and sustainable air 

transport activities. 


Boeing 747-400 

22 920 12,900 64.44 35,000 

(Combi 16) (Combi) 

390,100 415 70.67 yes! 

(Combi 396,900) (Combi 275) 

Boeing 747-400ER Freighter 

4 920 12,900 64.44 

412,800 112,000 70.67 

Boeing 777-300ER 

4 900 14,200 64.80 

351,543 425 73.86 yes! 

Boeing 777-200ER 

15 900 13,400 60.90 

297,500 318 63.70 yes!

How big, how small, how far…? 

McDonnell Douglas MD-11 

Airbus A330-200 

10 880 10,700 60.30 

233,000 243 58.37 yes! 

Boeing 737-700 

5 850 3,600 35.80 

65,300 129 33.60 

Fokker 50 

Fleet data information valid at magazine publication date 

KLM PLANE FACTS 

10 880 11,400 51.96 

280,300 285 61.21 yes! 

Boeing 737-900/800 

Boeing 737-400/300 

9 800 3,600 28.88 

7 800 2,850 28.88 

62,800 147 36.45 

56,900 127 33.40 

EMBRAER 190 Fokker 100/70 

10 850 4,500 28.72 

45,700 100 36.25 

6 505 2,200 29 

20,800 50 25.25 

5 850 4,600 35.80 

21 850 4,200 35.80 

76,900 189 41.91 

73,700 171 39.47 

6 740 2,400 28.08 

26 743 2,400 28.08 

44,400 103 35.53 

38,000 80 30.91 

KEY 

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 

WINGSPAN (M) 

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 

SCALE: 1 CM = 6.3 M 

TELEPHONE ON BOARD 

MAX. RANGE (KM) 

LENGTH (M) 

MAX. FREIGHT (KG) 


S 

ch 

LM KLM NEWS MAPS 

tsky 

Nadi 

WORLD 

North 

Island 

Auckland 

NEW 

ZEALAND 

Fiji 

Western 

Samoa 

Tonga 

American 

Samoa 

ALASKA 

Hawaiian 

Islands 

(USA) 

Kauai 

Oahu 

Maui 

Tabuaeran 

Kiritimati 

Kodiak 

Island 

Afognak I. 

Tahiti 

Tahiti 

8 Holland 98 Holland Herald Herald TRAVELLERS TRAVELLERS CHECK CHECK 

Chicagof 

Island 

Baranof 

Island 

Prince of Wales 

Island 

Dall Island 

Queen 

Charlotte 

Islands 

Marquesas Is. 

Prince 

Patrick 

Island 

Banks 

Island 

Parry Islands 

Melville Island 

Victoria 

Island 

Bathurst Island 

Prince 

of 

Wales 

Island 

C A N A D A 

Cornwallis 

Island 

Somerset 

Island 

Galapagos 

Devon Island 

Southampton 

Island 

Coats I. 

Mansel I. 

Belcher 

Islands 

Prince 

Charles I. 

C H I L E 

Resolution 

Island 

Akpatok 

Island 

Ketchikan 

Edmonton 

Saskatoon 

Akimski I. 

Calgary 

Regina 

Vancouver 

Vancouver 

Island 

Seattle 

Anticosti 

Island 

Portland 

Minneapolis/St. Paul 

Milwaukee 

UNITED STATES Chicago 

Salt Lake City 

Denver 

Indianapolis 

OF AMERICA 

Ottawa 

Detroit Toronto 

Pittsburgh 

Cincinnati 

Charlottetown 

Montreal 

Halifax 

Boston 

Hartford 

New York (LaGuardia) 

New York (JFK) 

San Francisco 

Las Vegas 

Memphis Nashville 

New York (Newark) 

Philadelphia 

Los Angeles 

Tijuana 

Dallas/Ft. Worth 

Atlanta 

Washington 

(Dulles) 

Raleigh 

Bermuda 

Houston 

Orlando 

Grand 

MEXICO 

Bahama 

I. Gt. Abaco I. 

Monterrey 

Eleuthera I. 

The Bahamas 

Miami 

Cat I. 

Andros I. 

Durango 

Long I. 

San José del Cabo Mazatlan 

Havana 

Crooked I. 

Cancun 

CUBA 

Leon 

Cancun 

Providenciales 

Gt. 

Isla de Isla de la 

Inagua I. 

Puerto Vallarta 

Cozumel Juventud 

Mexico City Cozumel Montego 

Guadalajara 

Cozumel 

Grand Bay 

Cayman I. 

Manzanillo 

Puebla 

Grand 

BELIZE 

Morelia 

Cayman 

Port-Au-Prince 

Santo Domingo 

Punta Cana 

Aguadilla 

St, St. Croix 

St. St. Maarten 

Thomas 

San Juan 

St. Thomas Thomas 

Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo 

Acapulco 

GUATEMALA 

HONDURAS 

Pointe-a-Pitre 

Fort-de-France 

EL SALVADOR NICARAGUA 

Bridgetown 

HAITI 

Virgin 

JAMAICA 

COSTA RICA 

PANAMA 

Is. Anguilla 

DOMINICAN St. Barbuda 

REPUBLIC 

PUERTO 

Croix St. Kitts 

RICO 

Antigua 

Guadeloupe Antigua 

Dominica 

Martinique 

St. Lucia 

St. Vincent Barbados 

Aruba 

Curaçao 

Bonaire 

Grenada 

Curacao 

Bonaire 

Margarita I. 

Tortuga I. 

Tobago 

Trinidad 

Caracas 

COLOMBIA 

Quito 

ECUADOR 

Guayaquil 

PERU 

VENEZUELA 

GUYANA 

FR. 

GUIANA 

SURINAME 

BOLIVIA 

B R A Z I L 

P A R A G U A Y 

Santiago 

Buenos Aires 

ARGENTINA 

URUGUAY 

GREENLAND 

12:00 AM 

1:00 AM 

2:00 AM 

3:00 AM 

4:00 am 

5:00 am 

6:00 AM 

7:00 AM 

8:00 AM 

9:00 AM 

10:00 

Lihue 

Honolulu 

Los Angeles 

Anchorage 

Kahului (Maui) 

Hawaii Kona 

San Diego 

Tijuana 

Papeete 

Ontario 

Fairbanks 

Las Vegas 

Hermasillo 

Loreto 

Phoenix 

La Paz 

UNITED STATES 

OF AMERICA 

Memphis 

Ciudad Juarez 

Chihuahua 

MEXICO 

Torreon 

Reynosa 

Culiacan 

Durango 

Monterrey 

New Orleans 

Houston 

Atlanta 

Orlando 

San José del Cabo Mazatlan 

Aguascalientes 

Leon 

Queretaro 

Puerto Vallarta 

Mexico 

Guadalajara 

City City 

Morelia 

Cancun 

Mérida 

Cozumel 

Grand 

Cayman 

Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo 

Cuernavaca 

Acapulco 

Puebla 

Villahermosa 

Belize City 

Oaxaca 

BELIZE 

Roatan 

GUATEMALA 

San Pedro Sula 

Guatemala City 

HONDURAS 

San Salvador 

Tegucigalpa 

EL SALVADOR 

NICARAGUA 

Managua 

Liberia 

COSTA RICA 

San José 

CUBA 

Panamá City 

PANAMA 

San José 

Ft. Lauderdale 

Freeport 

Miami 

Nassau 

Panamá 

City 

Montego 

Bay 

Port- 

HAITI 

Au-Prince 

JAMAICA 

Kingston 

Medellin 

Bogotá 

Lima 

Port of Spain 

Georgetown 

Paramaribo 

Cayenne 

Manaus 

São Paulo 

Fortaleza 

Recife 

Salvador 

Rio de Janeiro 

Azo 

(Portu 

Ca

ELAND 

Faerøerne 

(Denmark) 

Edgeøya 

MOLDOVA 

UGANDA 

M A L A W I 

M O Z A M B I Q U E 

S O M A L I R E P . 

M A D A G A S C A R 

R U S S I A N F E D E R A T I O N 

Shetland 

Islands 

NORWAY 

Åland 

Is. St. Petersburg 

Nizhnevartovsk 

Orkney 

Stockholm 

Islands 

Hiiumaa 

Saaremaa ESTONIA 

Gotland 

Perm 

Gothenburg 

Rostov 

Perm 

LATVIA 

Ekaterinburg Tyumen 

UNITED 

DENMARK 

Öland 

Edinburgh 

KINGDOM 

Copenhagen 

LITHUANIA 

Bornholm 

Moscow 

Novosibirsk 

Krasnojarsk 

Moscow 

R.S.F.S.R. 

Omsk 

Kemerovo 

Ufa 

Chelyabinsk 

Novosibirsk 

Krasnojarsk 

Omsk 

Kemerovo 

Ufa 

Chelyabinsk 

Dublin 

Manchester 

Amsterdam 

BELARUS 

Samara 

Barnaul 

Shannon 

Samara 

Berlin 

POLAND 

REP. OF 

GERMANY 

Irkutsk 

NETHERLANDS 

London Dusseldorf 

IRELAND 

BELGIUM 

Brussels 

Kiev 

LUX. 

CZECH REPUBLIC 

Frankfurt Prague 

Kiev 

Frankfurt Prague 

UKRAINE 

SLOVAKIA 

Paris Stuttgart Munich 

Vienna 

Volgograd 

K A Z A K H S T A N 

Ulan Bator 

Khabarovsk 

AUSTRIA 

FRANCE Zurich 

SWITZ. 

HUNGARY Budapest 

M O N G O L I A 

Yuzhno Sakhalinsk 

Astrakhan 

SLOVENIA 

CROATIA ROMANIA 

Harbin 

Lyon 

Venice 

Harbin 

Lyon 

Venice 

Anapa Krasnodar 

Milan 

Anapa 

Mudanjiang 

BOSNIA 

Hokkaido 

Mineralnye Vody 

Yining 

SERBIA 

Urumqi 

Changchun 

ITALY Pisa 

Urumqi 

Changchun 

Nice Pisa 

MONTENEGRO 

BULGARIA 

Bishkek Almaty 

Elba 

Yanji 

Vladivostok 

GEORGIA 

Corsica 

MACEDONIA 

SPAIN 

KYRGYZSTAN 

Madrid Barcelona Rome 

Tbilist 

Korla 

Shenyang 

Madrid Barcelona Rome 

Tbilisi 

N. KOREA 

ALBANIA 

Istanbul 

Tashkent 

Aksu 

Korla 

Shenyang 

Sardinia 

ARMENIA AZERBAIJAN 

Yerevan 

Baku 

Hotan Kucha Dunhuang 

Beijing 

Valencia 

TURKMENISTAN 

Kashi 

Beijing 

Balearics 

T U R K E Y 

(Spain) 

GREECE 

Dushanbe TAJIKISTAN 

Yinchuan 

Dalian Honshu 

Athens 

Qiemo 

Niigata S 

Xining 

Seoul 

Yantai 

Weihai 

Niigata S 

Xining 

Seoul 

Yantai 

Weihai 

Sicily 

Malaga 

S. KOREA 

J 

Malta 

Kríti 

Tehran 

Lanzhou 

Jinan TsingTao Taegu 

(Crete) 

CYPRUS 

Zhengzhou 

SYRIA 

Busan Busan 

To 

TUNISIA 

Xian 

Nagoya 

Madeira 

LEBANON Damascus 

AFGHANISTAN Islamabad 

Xian 

Cheju 

Nagoya 

(Portugal) 

MOROCCO 

Shikoku 

ISRAEL 

Tel Aviv 

IRAQ I R A N 

C H I N A 

Osaka 

Amman 

Nanjing 

Osaka 

Kyushu 

JORDAN 

Chengdu 

Shanghai 

Canary Is. 

Cairo 

Wuhan Shanghai 

(Spain) Lanzarote 

PAKISTAN 

Tenerife 

A L G E R I A 

Kuwait 

Delhi 

Lhasa 

Chongqing 

Tunxi Hangzhou Fukuoka Hiroshima 

KUWAIT 

a Palma 

Fuerteventura 

NEPAL 

Las Palmas 

L I B Y A 

Gran 

Kathmandu 

Changsha 

BHUTAN 

Canaria 

Bahrain 

Okinawa 

WESTERN 

EGYPT 

Dammam QATAR Dubai 

Guiyang 

Guilin 

SAHARA 

Xiamen 

Doha 

BANGLADESH 

Taipei 

Riyadh 

TAIWAN 

U.A.E 

S A U D I Abu Muscat 

Kunming 

Guangzhou 

Shenzen 

(Formosa) 

Dhabi 

I N D I A 

Nanning 

Shantou 

A R A B I A OMAN 

MYANMAR 

VIETNAM 

Nouakchott 

Jeddah 

Zhuhai 

Nouakchott 

Jeddah 

Zhuhai 

Hong 

(BURMA) Hanoi 

Hong 

LAOS 

Haikou Kong 

MAURITANIA 

Hainan 

M A L I 

Mumbai 

Chang Mai 

Sanya 

N I G E R 

Luzón 

C H A D Khartoum 

ERITREA 

akar 

akar 

YEMEN 

SENEGAL 

THE 

S U D A N 

GAMBIA 

Niamey 

Bamako 

Ouagadougou 

GUINEA 

BURKINA 

Kano 

N’Djamena 

DJIBOUTI 

BISSAU 

Djibouti 

GUINEA 

NIGERIA 

Conakry 

Conakry 

COTE 

Freetown SIERRA 

D’IVOIRE GHANA 

Abuja 

Addis Ababa 

Freetown 

LEONE 

CENTRAL 

ETHIOPIA 

Monrovia 

AFRICAN REP. 

LIBERIA Abidjan 

Port Harcourt 

CAMEROON 

Yaounde 

Bangui 

Malabo Malabo Bioko Douala 

EQ. 

Accra 

Accra 

GUINEA 

KENYA 

Lome 

Lome 

Sao Tomé Libreville 

Libreville 

CONGO Entabbe/Kampala 

Kisumu 

GABON 

DEMOCRATIC 

RWANDA 

Cotonou 

Cotonou 

REPUBLIC Kigali 

Nairobi 

OF THE 

Lagos 

Lagos 

BURUNDI 

Brazzaville 

Kilimanjaro 

CONGO Bujumbura 

Kilimanjaro 

(ZAIRE) 

Mombasa 

CABINDA 

Pemba 

Pointe Pointe Noire 

Noire 

Kinshasa 

TANZANIA 

Zanzibar 

Dar Mafia es Salaam 

I. 

Luanda 

Luanda 

Comoros 

Lubumbashi 

Is. 

A N G O L A 

Moroni 

Dzaoudzi 

ZAMBIA Lilongwe 

Socotra 

(Yemen) 

Seychelles 

Mahe Island 

Bangalore 

Chennai 

SRI LANKA 

Maldives 

THAILAND 

S 

Manila 

Andaman Is. Bangkok 

CAMBODIA 

(India) 

Siem Reap/Angkor Wat Mindoro PHILIPPINES 

Samar 

Phnom Penh 

Panay 

Ho Chi Minh City 

Leyte 

Palawan 

Cebu 

Negros 

Mindanao 

Nicobar Is. Phuket 

(India) Langkawi 

Kota Kinabalu 

Penang 

Natuna BRUNEI 

besar 

Kuala Lumpur Lumpur M A L A Y S I A 

Morotai 

Pulau Singapore SINGAPORE 

Halmahera 

Nias 

BORNEO 

Banga 

Pulau 

Siberut 

Sulawesi 

IRIAN 

Buru Seram 

JAYA 

P 

Kai Is. 

Jakarta 

I N D O N E S I A Aru Is. 

G 

Bali Sumbawa Flores 

Tanimbar 

JAVA 

Is. 

Denpasar Lombok 

EAST TIMOR 

(Bali) Sumba 

Timor 

Melville I. 

Groote 

Eylandt 

Lusaka 

Blantyre 

Harare 

ZIMBABWE 

Antananarivo 

Mauritius 

Mauritus 

NAMIBIA 

BOTSWANA 

St. Denis 

Réunion 

PORTUGAL 

TOGO 

BENIN 

SVALBARD 

(Norway) 

SWEDEN 

FINLAND 

Franz Josef Land 

(Russia) 

Bear Island 

(Norway) 

11:00 AM 12:00 PM 1:00 PM 2:00 PM 3:00 PM 4:00 PM 5:00 PM 6:00 PM 

7:00 PM 8:00 PM 9:00 PM 

Johannesburg Maputo 

SWAZILAND 

REPUBLIC 

OF 

LESOTHO Durban 

Cape Town 

SOUTH AFRICA 

Pt. Elizabeth 

1 2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 00 

U Z B E K I S T A N 

Global Route Systems 

KLM 

Aeroflot Russian Airlines 

Aeromexico 

Air France 

Alaska Airlines/ 

Horizon Air 

Air Europa 

Alitalia 

China Southern 

Comair (South Africa) 

CSA Czech Airlines 

Delta Air Lines/ 

Delta Connection 

Kenya Airways 

Korean Air 

Malaysia Airlines 

TAM 

Kerguelen 

SkyTeam Member 

KLM Codeshare 

SkyTeam Associate 

S U M A T R A 

Perth 

A U S T R A L 

Adelaide 

Kangaroo I. 

Holland Holland Herald Herald TRAVELLERS TRAVELLERS CHECK CHECK 99 

99 

K 

TASM

RAVEL ZANZIBAR 

KLM MAPS 

NORTH AMERICA 

British Columbia A l b e r t a 

S a s k a t c h e w a n M a n i t o b a 

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West Palm Beach 

 

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WESTERN 

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12:00 pm 1:00 pm 2:00 pm 1:00 pm 

3:00 pm 

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Are you interested in advertising to 

MAURITANIA those MALI who elect NIGER to fly with CHAD KLM each month? SUDAN 

 

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on +31 858880377 

M O L D O V A 

SYR

KLM MAPS 

THE NETHERLANDS 

DELTA WORKS 

MAURITSHUIS 

DE KEUKENHOF 

MADURODAM 

KUNSTHAL 

CHEESE MARKET 

FLOWER AUCTION 

• 

ZUIDERZEEMUSEUM 

AVIODROME AVIATION MUSEUM 

EFTELING, KAATSHEUVEL 

WALIBI WORLD, BIDDINGHUIZEN 

DOLFINARIUM, HARDERWIJK 

NATIONAL PARK DE HOGE VELUWE 

KRÖLLER-MÜLLER MUSEUM 

BONNEFANTEN MUSEUM 

TRAVEL ZANZIBAR 

GRONINGER MUSEUM 

KEY 

MOTORWAY 

RAILWAY 

PROVINCIAL BOUNDARY 

FERRY 

AIRPORT 

ZOO 

GENERAL ATTRACTION 

MUSEUM 

FLOWER EXHIBITION 

AMUSEMENT PARK 

NOORDERDIERENPARK

SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES 

Amsterdam / Schiphol Airport, The Netherlands 

Gates B 

Gates C 

Paris / Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2, France 

TERMINAL 2E 

GATES E51 TO E76 

TERMINAL 2G 

GATES G21 TO G40 

B34 B30 B26 B22 B18 

B36 B32 B28 B24 B20 B16 B14 to B1 - B8 

4 

B35 B31 B27 B23 B17 B15 B13 

C16 

C15 - C18 

C13 

C14 

C11 

Schengen 

Gates B-C, D 59-87, M 

C12 

D24 

D26 

D28 

C9 

E51 

- 

E76 

T 

C10 

D14 

D16 

D18 

D22 

D31 D29D27D25D23D21 

Gates D 

T Transfer desk 

Self-service transfer 

KLM Crown Lounge 

5 

D12 

D68 D10 

D66 

D42 

D44D72 

D46D74 

D48D76 

D52 D78 

D54D82 

5 

D56D84 

D47 

D86 

D49 D77 

D51 D79 

D53 D81 

D55 D83 

D57D85 

D87 D87 

KEY 

to C21 - C26 

4 

C8 C6 C4 

4 

C7 C5 T3 

T2 

F41-F43 

F56 

F54-F55 

F53 

Lounge 

1 

TERMINAL 2E 


F52 

F51 

D2 

D4 D60 

D8 D62 

D64 

3 

T5 T4 

D3 

D5 D59 

D7 D61 

D63 

D41 

D71 

D43 

D73 

Check-in 

Self-Service Check-in 

8 

3 

Schiphol 

World 

Avenue 

1 

12 

2 

Lounge 

2 

T 

T 

T 

F44-F45 F36 T 

F2 F46 

F35 

F1 

F47 

F34 

F48 

F33 

F49 

F50 

TERMINAL 2F 

Schengen 

F32 

F31 

1 

E2 

E4 E3 

E6 E5 

E8 

Gates E 

T6 

Schiphol Plaza 

E7 

E15 E9 

E18 E17 

E20 

E22 

E24 

Passport control / 

Security check 

A1 Gate Numbers 

4 

Baggage Claim 

7 

Holland Boulevard 

E19 

5 

5 

KLM 

Crown 

Lounge 

25 

F21-F25 

F26 

F27 

F28 

F29 

F30 

Gates D 

Walking distance from point to 

point (average time in minutes) 

3 

F2 

2 

T8 

F4 

Thalys/RER/TGV 

Railway station 

M7 

M6 H7 

M5 H6 

Gates M M4 H5 Gates H 

M3 4 H4 

M2 H3 

M1 H2 

H1 

G11-16 

Lounge 

3 

4 

6 

T9 

G3 

1 

Lounge 

3 

F3 

F6 

Gates F 

3 

F8 

C88-C89 

A48-A49 

A46-A47 

A44-A45 

C90-C91 A50-A51 A42-A43 

A40-A41 

C86-C87 C84-C85 C82-C83 

C80-C81 

T 

T 

D53-D54 

3 

F5 

F9 

Top Level 

Second floor 

5 

5 

T 

F7 

G2 

G5 

KLM Crown Lounge 

52 

TERMINAL 2C 

1 

1 

G4 

D55-D56 

D57-D58 

D60-D61 

D61-D62 

3 

G7 

G6 

TERMINAL 2D 

KLM and Alitalia fl ights arrive at / depart 

from Terminal 2F, Gates F21 to F36. 

Air France fl ights arrive at / depart from 

Terminals 2C, 2D, 2E and 2F. 

G9 

G8 

Gates G 

4 

D72-D73 

D64-D65 

D70-D71 

D74 

D76 

4 

4 4 

T 

KLM fl ights arrive at / depart 

from gates B, C, D, E, F. 

Air France and Alitalia 

fl ights arrive at / depart from 

gates B and C. 

Korean Air fl ights arrive 

at / depart from gate G. 

Delta fl ights arrive at / 

depart from gate E. 

Czech Airlines fl ights arrive 

at / depart from gate D. 

For KLM passengers travelling 

to Antwerp (Thalys) 

and Rotterdam (NS): Please 

ensure you collect your 

luggage in Amsterdam and 

change your KLM (e-) ticket 

for a Thalys/NS ticket at the 

Netherlands Railways 

(NS ) desk at Schiphol 

Plaza (just past immigration). 

Passengers with access 

to KLM’s Crown Lounges 

and who are transferring to 

European (Schengen) fl ights 

are kindly advised to use 

Crown Lounge 25, located 

near the Schengen gates 

behind passport control, 

when arriving on 

inter continental fl ights. 

TERMINAL 2A 

1 

1 

T 

B33-34 

B21-B22 

B31-B32 

B23-B24 B26-B27-B28B29-B30 

B25 

3 

3 

TERMINAL 2B 

Self-service transfer 

Landside connection shuttle 

to/from Terminal 2G 

T Transfer desk 1 Transfer by shuttle 1 outside Customs Area 

Air France Lounge 

Transfer by train 

Delta, AeroMexico and Korean Air fl ights 

arrive at / depart from Terminal 2E. 

Czech Airlines fl ights arrive at / depart 

from Terminal 2D. 

Transfer by shuttle bus inside Customs Area 

Transfer by shuttle bus inside Customs Area, 

only between 7:30am and 4:15pm

Our handy hints can help you to stay feeling great both during and after the 

fl ight. Exercises should be performed slowly with steady, even breathing 

10 TIMES 15 TIMES 30 TIMES 5 TIMES 10 TIMES 15 TIMES 

Feet 

With your heels on 

the fl oor, stretch your 

toes upwards. Then, 

keeping your toes on 

the fl oor, stretch your 

heel upwards. 

Relax whilst fl ying 

Statistics show that fl ying is much safer 

than many situations in our daily lives 

The crew in control of the plane are 

highly trained and experienced 

KLM aircraft are maintained and designed 

to withstand all sorts of turbulence 

Try to relax – breathe in deeply through 

your nose, hold for three seconds and 

exhale slowly 

KLM partner, VALK Foundation, can 

offer support to people with a fear 

of fl ying. Visit www.valk.org or 

call +31 71 5273733 

HOUSE RULES 

Rotate your foot fi rst 

in one direction and 

then the other. 

All electronic devices must 

be turned off completely whilst 

walking to/from the aircraft, and 

during take-off, approach 

and landing. 

Mobile phones may 

be used on board the 

aircraft as long as 

the aircraft doors are 

open (subject to local 

regulations). 

Ankles Knees Shoulders Legs Back and arms 

Raise your leg, 

tensing the muscles 

of your thigh. 

During the fl ight 

With your hands 

on your thighs, rotate 

your shoulders in a 

circular motion. 

Ear pain? Pinch your nose shut, 

close your mouth and swallow or 

blow out against your closed mouth. 

Alternatively, chew gum 

Stimulate your circulation by 

walking around in the cabin and 

stretching 

Avoid sitting with your legs crossed 

as this restricts circulation 

Taking your shoes off might be 

more comfortable 

Drink plenty of water and not too 

much alcohol, tea or coffee 

The only electronic devices which 

may be used during the fl ight 

and ground stop are: 

• Those with a ‘fl ight mode’ or 

‘fl ight safe’ setting. This must be 

activated before the aircraft doors 

are closed. 

• Laptops, if the WLAN/ 

WiFi is turned off. 

• Electronic games, 

MP3, DVD and 

CD players. 

KLM FIT FOR FLYING 

Bend forward slightly. 

Wrap your hands 

around your knee 

and raise it to your 

chest. 

Hold for 15 seconds. 

Reducing jetlag 

Place both feet 

fl at on the ground 

and hold in your 

stomach. Bend 

forward, moving your 

hands down your 

legs. 

Start adjusting your body clock 

to the time zone of your 

destination the night before departure 

by going to bed earlier or later 

Don’t eat too heavily the night 

before you leave, or drink too much 

coffee or alcohol 

Eat protein-rich meals at times 

that are normal for your new 

time zone 

At your destination, take light 

exercise, such as a walk 

Spend at least 30 minutes in daylight 

Drinks are served 

one at a time to 

passengers occupying 

their assigned seats. 

For safety reasons, 

the purser may close 

the bar. Passengers 

are not permitted to drink 

alcoholic beverages brought on 

board with them. 

Smoking on KLM fl ights 

is strictly forbidden at all times. 


KLM AMSTERDAM MAP 

FILMMUSEUM 

CONCERTGEBOUW 

WESTERKERK 

STADSSCHOUWBURG 

Hand baggage rules at EU airports 

To increase passenger safety, security rules for hand luggage are in place for all fl ights, in accordance with 

European Union regulations. When passing through security control, you will be required to present liquids, gels, 

pastes, lotions and aerosols separately, in individual containers of not more than 100ml, packaged in a re-sealable, 

transparent plastic bag (maximum volume 1 litre, 1 bag per person). 

Airport shopping 

in the EU 

RIJKSMUSEUM 

VAN GOGH MUSEUM 

Within the European Union, 

liquids and gels that you purchase 

after passing through passport 

control, or on board the aircraft 

will be packaged and sealed for you, 

together with the receipt. 

The unbroken seal is valid for 

24 hours. 

ANNE FRANK HOUSE 

ROYAL PALACE 

THE NIEUWE KERK 

AMSTERDAM HISTORICAL MUSEUM 

FLOWER MARKET 

BEURS VAN BERLAGE 

VAN PAMPUS 

DIAMOND CENTER 

Airport shopping 

outside the EU 

CENTRAL STATION 

VVV AMSTERDAM TOURIST OFFICE 

NIEUWMARKT 

If you buy liquids or gels at a 

non-EU airport and change planes at 

an EU airport, your purchases will be 

confi scated at the EU airport security 

check. This can also happen for 

purchases you make on board an 

aircraft operated by an airline from 

a non-EU country. For further 

information visit www.klm.com 

NEMO MUSEUM 

MARITIME MUSEUM 

Animal products 

To prevent the spread of animal 

diseases, you are prohibited from 

entering the EU with meat, meat 

products, milk and milk products. Small 

quantities for personal use are 

permitted on arrival from Andorra, the 

Faroe Islands, Greenland, Iceland, 

Liechtenstein, Norway, San Marino and 

Switzerland. For further information 

visit http://europa.eu.int. 

_airhubs-A.indd 76 10-08-2007 16:12:22 


ZUIDERKERK 

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JORDAAN 

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Deeply committed to the culture of writing, Montblanc is cooperating with UNICEF for 

the third time. Since 2004 more than US$1 million has been raised to support UNICEF education 

programmes worldwide. Part of the proceeds* from this Meisterstück special edition will again be 

donated to UNICEF and its literacy projects, with a minimum amount of US$1.5 million 

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– The Meisterstück Signature for Good edition has been handcrafted by our master craftsmen in 

the customary tradition of every Meisterstück since 1924. It features a precious blue sapphire and 

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*For every item in the Signature for Good collection sold in the US and UK between 1 June 2009 and 31 May 2010, Montblanc will donate 10 per cent of the 

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*

H E I N E N D E L F T W A R E 

T R A D I T I O N A L D U T C H C E R A M I C S

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signature for good. The ability to read and write is a fundamental human 

right and the most important asset for children. It is essential for the development of the individual 

and of society, helping pave the way for a successful and self-determined life. 

Deeply committed to the culture of writing, Montblanc is cooperating with UNICEF for 

the third time. Since 2004 more than US$1 million has been raised to support UNICEF education 

programmes worldwide. Part of the proceeds* from this Meisterstück special edition will again be 

donated to UNICEF and its literacy projects, with a minimum amount of US$1.5 million 

being guaranteed by Montblanc. 

– The Meisterstück Signature for Good edition has been handcrafted by our master craftsmen in 

the customary tradition of every Meisterstück since 1924. It features a precious blue sapphire and 

gold-plated wreath on the cap. 

*For every item in the Signature for Good collection sold in the US and UK between 1 June 2009 and 31 May 2010, Montblanc will donate 10 per cent of the 

retail price to support UNICEF education programmes. UNICEF does not endorse any brand or product. No portion of the purchase price is tax-deductible.

january-2010

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