27.06.2013 Views

The Burgundy Briefing - Sarah Marsh Home Page

The Burgundy Briefing - Sarah Marsh Home Page

The Burgundy Briefing - Sarah Marsh Home Page

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Burgundy</strong> <strong>Briefing</strong><br />

news, views and tastings <strong>Sarah</strong> <strong>Marsh</strong> MW<br />

Issue 5, May/June 2006<br />

Market report<br />

a. Production and export of the 2004 vintage<br />

b. Current market in the UK: sales in 2005 (2003s) and the en<br />

primeur market for 2004<br />

c. Review of wines sold auction in the UK and States in 2005<br />

Credits: All production and export figures in this document have been sourced directly from the<br />

BIVB. Matthew Martin Bird has contributed to this market report.<br />

a. Production and export of the 2004 vintage<br />

<strong>The</strong> recent production of <strong>Burgundy</strong> is plotted over the past 21 years in the following graph.<br />

(figures are found in the table below). In the mid 1980s the volume of red wine produced was<br />

not significantly more than white. However since 1984 (with the exception of 1986), the volume<br />

of white wine has steadily increased and now far outstrips the production of red. Although the<br />

quantity of red wine produced has increased from 427,079 hectolitres in 1984, to 507,509<br />

hectolitres in 2005, an increase of approximately 20%, this is small in comparison with the 140%<br />

increase in white wine (417,217 hectares in 1984 to 1,007,283 in 2005). <strong>The</strong> graph highlights the<br />

much reduced crop of 2003 as a sharp drop, immediately followed by the substantial 2004<br />

harvest. <strong>The</strong> 2005 vintage is smaller than 2004, showing a decrease of 2% in red production. In<br />

the last 20 years only 2003, 1997 and 1991 had smaller red vintages. However the picture is<br />

quite different for white. <strong>The</strong> decrease in the production of white wine is 4%, but this represents<br />

the largest vintage, after 2004, of the past 20 years.<br />

Volume<br />

(Hl)<br />

4,000,000<br />

3,000,000<br />

2,000,000<br />

1,000,000<br />

0<br />

Volume of <strong>Burgundy</strong> Harvest 1984-2005<br />

1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005<br />

Year<br />

Total<br />

Whites<br />

Reds


-3%<br />

1,514,792<br />

-4%<br />

1,007,283<br />

-2%<br />

507,509<br />

2005<br />

43%<br />

1,568,974<br />

44%<br />

1,052,955<br />

41%<br />

516,019<br />

2004<br />

-28%<br />

1,098,027<br />

-24%<br />

733,291<br />

-35%<br />

364,736<br />

2003<br />

3%<br />

1,530,439<br />

6%<br />

970,968<br />

-2%<br />

559,471<br />

2002<br />

-4%<br />

1,487,784<br />

-3%<br />

915,866<br />

-6%<br />

571,918<br />

2001<br />

-4%<br />

1,550,706<br />

-1%<br />

943,180<br />

-8%<br />

607,526<br />

2000<br />

14%<br />

1,608,190<br />

9%<br />

950,598<br />

23%<br />

657,592<br />

1999<br />

3%<br />

1,404,868<br />

0%<br />

869,477<br />

8%<br />

535,391<br />

1998<br />

-7%<br />

1,366,193<br />

2%<br />

870,752<br />

-20%<br />

495,441<br />

1997<br />

10%<br />

1,473,630<br />

9%<br />

855,649<br />

11%<br />

617,981<br />

1996<br />

1%<br />

1,336,597<br />

5%<br />

782,144<br />

-4%<br />

554,453<br />

1995<br />

3%<br />

1,321,747<br />

2%<br />

744,089<br />

4%<br />

577,658<br />

1994<br />

-1%<br />

1,287,135<br />

-1%<br />

731,639<br />

-1%<br />

555,496<br />

1993<br />

21%<br />

1,302,797<br />

26%<br />

739,489<br />

16%<br />

563,308<br />

1992<br />

-12%<br />

1,076,339<br />

-8%<br />

589,071<br />

-16%<br />

487,268<br />

1991<br />

8%<br />

1,219,621<br />

11%<br />

639,076<br />

4%<br />

580,545<br />

1990<br />

2%<br />

1,130,193<br />

2%<br />

573,915<br />

2%<br />

556,278<br />

1989<br />

5%<br />

1,110,293<br />

9%<br />

563,514<br />

2%<br />

546,779<br />

1988<br />

-9%<br />

1,052,519<br />

1%<br />

519,019<br />

-16%<br />

533,500<br />

1987<br />

23%<br />

1,151,318<br />

9%<br />

514,685<br />

37%<br />

636,633<br />

1986<br />

11%<br />

936,640<br />

13%<br />

472,836<br />

9%<br />

463,804<br />

1985<br />

N/A<br />

844,296<br />

N/A<br />

417,217<br />

N/A<br />

427,079<br />

1984<br />

% Change<br />

Total<br />

% Change<br />

Whites<br />

% Change<br />

Reds<br />

Year<br />

<strong>The</strong> Evolution of the <strong>Burgundy</strong> Harvest 1984 -2005


However at the top end of the market, from village to grand cru on the Côte d’Or, markedly more<br />

red wine is produced than white, as can be seen in the graph and table which follow. About three<br />

and a half (3.57) times as much red wine has been made from grand cru sites as white – and<br />

2.98 times more at village and premier cru level. However over the last six years, there has been<br />

a slight downward trend in the volume produced of red village and premier cru wines (although<br />

1999 does represent a peak in production).<br />

Volume (in hectolitres) at Various Quality Levels of the Cote d’Or 1999 -2005<br />

Village and 1er Cru Blancs<br />

Village and 1er Cru Reds<br />

Grand Cru Whites<br />

Grand Cru Reds<br />

Volume (hl)<br />

1999<br />

68,188<br />

229,612<br />

4,447<br />

15,330<br />

2000<br />

65,242<br />

196,527<br />

4,191<br />

14,148<br />

2001<br />

62,432<br />

188,586<br />

4,016<br />

14,274<br />

2002<br />

65,371<br />

187,913<br />

4,012<br />

13,561<br />

2003<br />

43,142<br />

125,186<br />

2,884<br />

9,434<br />

Production at Various Quality Levels of the Cote d'Or<br />

250,000<br />

200,000<br />

150,000<br />

100,000<br />

50,000<br />

0<br />

1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005<br />

Year<br />

2004<br />

69,365<br />

172,855<br />

4,012<br />

12,571<br />

Village and 1er Cru<br />

Reds<br />

Village and 1er Cru<br />

Blancs<br />

Grand Cru Reds<br />

Grand Cru W hites<br />

2005<br />

58,817<br />

175,674<br />

3,692<br />

13,214<br />

More detailed figures on the production of red and white in specific villages on the cotes may be<br />

found in tables at the end of this document.<br />

<strong>The</strong> following tables and pie charts have been sourced (as seen) from the BIVB.


Export figures for Wines from <strong>Burgundy</strong> 2004-05 (BIVB)


. Current market: UK sales in 2005 (2003s) and the en-primeur market for 2004<br />

This section takes a look at the UK market over the past year. <strong>The</strong> following merchants were<br />

consulted: Domaine Direct (Hilary Gibbs); Hayes, Hanson and Clarke (Jim Eustace); Lay and<br />

Wheeler (Amanda Skinner); O.W. Loeb (Jason Hayes). <strong>The</strong> general mood of the market is<br />

considered, together with emerging trends in buying habits; sales in 2005/6 and the impact of<br />

price and vintage on them.<br />

<strong>The</strong> merchants were then asked to select domaines which offered decent prices in 2004 and<br />

choose growers who have increased prices very reasonably over the past decade.<br />

Just to round up, the merchants were asked to consider en primeur prices in relation to quality<br />

over the past ten years.<br />

This exercise draws on a tiny sample of UK merchants who have shared their thoughts and<br />

observations. It is only an impression of the market and does not pretend to be a comprehensive<br />

reflection.<br />

Mood:<br />

Amanda Skinner CEO of Lay and Wheeler sets the scene with a positive feeling about <strong>Burgundy</strong><br />

from both consumer and trade customers. “<strong>The</strong> client perception is definitely that <strong>Burgundy</strong><br />

offers better value; that the pricing is more “correct” i.e. better price:quality ratio. <strong>The</strong>re is<br />

definitely a recognition of the great strides in quality that have been made in the region in the<br />

past twenty years and I think that the wine merchants have made more effort to clarify the<br />

<strong>Burgundy</strong> “story” and introduce the growers through literature and tastings/dinners. It has to be<br />

said that this has not totally been done for the love of our friends on the Côtes – the margins<br />

that the merchants can achieve on Bordeaux sales are falling all the time – high(er) pricing at the<br />

outset, cellaring and financing costs waiting for maturity, lack of demand and “out of vogue” and<br />

thus it makes commercial sense to focus more strongly on <strong>Burgundy</strong> where the pricing at the<br />

outset may be more realistic, the cellaring and financing costs do not have to be bourne for such<br />

a long period, the wines are more approachable for amateur tasting and assessment, the<br />

quantities are smaller and thus the consumer is encouraged to buy at an earlier stage etc. and all<br />

this contributes to a better margin.”<br />

Jason Hayes also attributes the high level of interest in <strong>Burgundy</strong> to the increased commentary<br />

and information available, pointing out that buying Bordeaux used to be a much simpler task<br />

than buying <strong>Burgundy</strong>, which was little more complicated than “having to choose between buying<br />

Latour or Lafite. Whereas choosing between half a dozen different appellations from two different<br />

growers (even if they are based in the same village) demands careful consideration and no little<br />

knowledge.”<br />

Hayes is also optimistic. “Overall the general mood for <strong>Burgundy</strong> is positive. It is still very much<br />

an evolving market. As recently as ten years ago many of today's household names had no UK<br />

importer.” He, like Amanda Skinner, links this with quality being higher and more consistent than<br />

it has ever been, “the greater technology (and know how) available to growers allows them to<br />

take risks safe in the knowledge that they can get themselves out of jail if the need arises. <strong>The</strong><br />

minimum quality level among the top growers appears to be much higher than previously and<br />

disaster vintages (touch wood) seem a thing of the past.”


At Domaine Direct Hilary Gibbs, who is among the most experienced people in the UK market for<br />

<strong>Burgundy</strong>, finds the recent market mood quite buoyant, “partly because 2003 was quite small, as<br />

well as atypical, so the 2004s for general and everyday consumption and selling have been<br />

welcomed.”<br />

Jim Eustace a director of Hayes, Hanson and Clarke sounds a note of caution. He has noticed<br />

that the bottom end of the market the mood is a bit gloomy. “<strong>The</strong> prices are low and there is a<br />

lot of wine in the cellars. It’s a bit worrying. However for the vineyards in good sites and for the<br />

well-known growers the mood is very buoyant. <strong>The</strong>re is a good market for <strong>Burgundy</strong> with the<br />

exception of the people who have continually increased prices. <strong>The</strong>se wines are sticking in the<br />

2004 vintage however trendy they are.”<br />

Style and colour<br />

Sales trends:<br />

Hayes Hanson and Clarke report that fewer customers are “prepared to shell out for high prices<br />

often linked with bigger showier style, “ says Eustace. “Certain high profile domaines have made<br />

a reputation for a style based upon full maturity, concentration and richness.” Whereas style and<br />

name will probably buffer high prices in the States, in the UK it is not surprising to find<br />

merchants and consumers with reservations.” <strong>The</strong> wines maybe very attractive in youth, but the<br />

worry is over how they will age. <strong>The</strong>se wines are based on tiny yields, for example 25 hl/ha for<br />

village wines,” says Eustace. When yields are this low, he rightly draws attention to the problem<br />

of alcohol, “This may not be apparent at first often, but comes though later as harshness on the<br />

finish.” Hayes, Hanson and Clarke are sufficiently concerned that more reserved elegant style<br />

might be overlooked for showier wine, to wait until September to hold tasting for their<br />

consumers. “We look for finesse and like domaines such as Chandon de Briailles, who use no<br />

new oak. While we want to offer a range of style, we lean to lighter styles. Why pay £500 IB for<br />

a case of village wine that could easily be made somewhere else.”<br />

In the UK the film Sideways had no effect on the sales of red <strong>Burgundy</strong>. At Lay and Wheeler red<br />

<strong>Burgundy</strong> sales are increasing faster than white, but Amanda skinner attributes this is a bias in<br />

their portfolio, the ABC effect and health factors.<br />

Skinner also considers that the effects of better education is resulting in “consumers definitely<br />

know what they like more and more, and village styles are becoming more common parlance –<br />

there is a discernable trend now amongst consumers of the “I know that I love Volnay, what can<br />

you recommend” type of enquiry.”<br />

Quality level<br />

In terms of growth trends in a specific quality level from generic wines to grand cru, this is very<br />

vintage dependent. At Loeb, Hayes comments, “In a great vintage like 2002 one could buy<br />

confidently across the board and village wines offered terrific value. In 2001 the best vineyards<br />

really showed why they are classified so and it was a vintage to concentrate one's purchases on<br />

the top sites.” However at Lay and Wheeler, sales of entry level wine (Olivier Leflaive’s Côte<br />

Chalonnais and Nicolas Potel’s reds from the Hautes Côtes and Nuits St George Vieilles Vignes)<br />

reveal little movement. <strong>The</strong> growth is coming from 1er Cru and Grand Cru level wines from the<br />

Côtes de Beaune and Côtes de Nuits.


A worrying trend towards investment and cherry picking:<br />

Jason Hayes observes a worrying trend in buying habits. “Those who can afford the top vintages<br />

(in Bordeaux) now tend to buy only the top vintages and this trend appears to be creeping in to<br />

the <strong>Burgundy</strong> market as customers overbuy in the best vintages and under buy in those just<br />

below the top level. For example many of the top red wines in 2001 were on a par or just a<br />

fraction below their 2002 equivalent but sales in 2002 of those wines was between five and<br />

tenfold those of 2001. It seems that demand for 2005 may well outstrip the two other recent top<br />

red <strong>Burgundy</strong> vintages of 2002 and 1999 as this trend gathers pace.”<br />

“Clearly increased information makes it is easier for investors to consider <strong>Burgundy</strong> in place of<br />

Bordeaux, although limited quantities make significant purchases difficult. But these new 'cherry<br />

pickers' are still able to have an impact on the market for the top wines, which are in ever more<br />

demand, although again this tends to be only in the very best vintages. Investors lack the loyalty<br />

and the intellectual interest to buy other vintages.” Hayes worried that “we will see a more roller<br />

coaster range of prices over the next ten years, but hopefully not to the extent of Bordeaux.”<br />

It seems that SIPPS had no effect on sales of <strong>Burgundy</strong>. Cautious merchants who waited to see<br />

how they would work before doing anything about it took the right approach. Some merchant<br />

consider that SIPPS would certainly have had an effect on the secondary market for <strong>Burgundy</strong>,<br />

but all agree that any impact on the en primeur market would have been minimal given the<br />

insufficient volume of wine.<br />

A move from Bordeaux I favour of <strong>Burgundy</strong>?<br />

At Lay and Wheeler <strong>Burgundy</strong> sales are increasing as a percentage of total sales and specifically<br />

against Bordeaux sales outside the en primeur cycle. Although Amanda Skinner comments that<br />

they are unlikely to be able to source enough wine to contribute more than 10% of total sales,<br />

she anticipates selling at least twice as much <strong>Burgundy</strong> as Bordeaux in general sales. At the entry<br />

level Skinner comments that people are more inclined to open a bottle of Hautes Cotes de Nuits<br />

2001, from Nicolas Potel than a 2001 Medoc. “You are likely to get much more satisfaction from a<br />

bottle of negociant level Red <strong>Burgundy</strong> than from a Bordeaux Superieur.”<br />

Prices and Vintage style and their effect on sales in 2005:<br />

Hayes sums up the market: “<strong>The</strong>re is rarely a big hike from one year to the next (unlike in<br />

Bordeaux), although some 2003s were increased too much for the market to withstand. Having<br />

said that it was a very, very small vintage. Almost all growers who increased their prices in 2003<br />

brought them back to the level of 2002 for 2004s and some to just below. Certainly price<br />

increases for some of the 2003s, although logical in terms of achieving an aggregate income,<br />

were hard to justify to collectors who has bought heavily in 2002 and felt no great need to buy<br />

wines that overall were less good and in terms of the whites had very limited ageing potential.<br />

Despite lowering our margins significantly sales of 2003 white <strong>Burgundy</strong> en primeur were<br />

negligible.”<br />

Some producers who increased their prices dramatically in 2003 found their agents decided to<br />

‘pass.’ <strong>The</strong> 2003 vintage was so small hardly mattered, but in 2004, even with decreased prices,<br />

some producers may have found their agents less interested in taking wine than before. When<br />

the momentum of sales vintage on vintage has been interrupted and the relationship between<br />

producer-merchant-customer broken, it can take a while to mend.


In 2003 the tiny volumes opened up opportunities for growers beyond the Côte d’Or to make an<br />

impression on the overseas markets. At Lay and Wheeler they turned to the Maçonnais as a<br />

source of entry level chardonnay. (For more on good quality and reasonable priced wines from<br />

the Maçonnais, see Tasting 3 in this issue).<br />

2003 Reds: “2003 reds were not easy to sell either because of the price,” comments Eustace<br />

and HH&C chose not to buy from some domaines whose prices were “definitely too high. It was<br />

damaging when domaines increased 25%, as customers were not interested in buying.” Eustace<br />

considers that it has to be viewed as a vintage where one was not going to make money and<br />

comments that it was a mistake for growers to set their prices to compensate for low yields.<br />

Those who “took a hit” and priced sensibly included Christophe Roumier and Blain-Gagnard.<br />

Sales of white in 2005:<br />

2003 white: Eustace also reports sales of white <strong>Burgundy</strong> were down in the 2003 vintage.<br />

“People had it in their heads that 2003 whites were not very good, but this is a shame since the<br />

2003 whites are delicious. <strong>The</strong>se are not wines for keeping, but for drinking and enjoying when<br />

young. This is a vintage where the grapes were fully ripe, no rot, absolutely lovely, yet people<br />

are turning their backs on it. Ridiculous!” It seems that wines sold well enough at the bottom to<br />

middle level, but at the top end, sales were sluggish as people, understandably, are not keen to<br />

spend £50 on a wine they cannot keep.<br />

Chablis: Chablis was perhaps less affected. Eustace found sales as normal with the 2003 vintage<br />

(Domaines Raveneau, Christian Moreau and Daniel Dampt). Hayes concurs, remarking that<br />

restaurant sales are very consistent for Chablis across the various levels, but finds collectors tend<br />

to stick to the top vintages. Amanda Skinner confirms this “2003 was undoubtedly a hard sell to<br />

the purists but being quite showy and for earlier drinking, sales were definitely made up amongst<br />

the hotel and restaurant and corporate clientele.”<br />

At Loeb, Hayes comments that Chablis “is often viewed as an alternative to white <strong>Burgundy</strong> when<br />

considering what to pluck from the cellar and therefore tends to have a limited role. Also, its<br />

ageing ability is often overlooked.” This is a pity and I agree wholeheartedly with Amanda<br />

Skinner, who comments “I think that the 2004 Chablis were outstanding personally and but I<br />

suspect that with all the hype over 2005, 2004 will be one of those vintages which is not<br />

recognised for what it offers and is rather overlooked. Happy the people who have bought these<br />

wines – they are getting exceptional value for money and have a great deal of pleasure to look<br />

forward to.” It is not surprising that Hilary Gibbs has discerned some excitement in Domaine<br />

Direct customers (hard core <strong>Burgundy</strong> lovers) with the return in the 2004s of more classical<br />

structured wine.<br />

2004s: This was a vintage that suffered from a bad press early on, particularly reds, which was<br />

a pity as there is plenty of good wine in 2004. However Loeb report that customers who tasted<br />

the wines at their London tasting in January actually bought more reds. <strong>The</strong> merchants felt<br />

growers’ prices were a little too high for the 2004 vintage and would have liked to them come<br />

down more than they did post the 2003 vintage. However most merchants lowered their margins<br />

in 2004 to encourage sales. <strong>The</strong>re was a general feeling that customers didn’t need to buy – a<br />

combination of good recent vintages in several regions and the 2005 on the horizon. 2004 was<br />

always going to be difficult as people are waiting for 2005, although Hilary Gibbs considers the<br />

effect was mainly for reds for cellaring (Domaine Direct chose not to do an offer for 2004). <strong>The</strong>re<br />

are some good buys to be had in 2004 and in the future it may well be considered an under<br />

estimated vintage. (I made a selection of best buys in issue 4 and the merchants give their tips<br />

below). Also it offers the opportunity for new customers to get on the allocation ladder by buying<br />

some 2004, putting them in a preferential position to get hold of 2005.


£$£$£$£$£$£$<br />

Price:<br />

<strong>The</strong> merchants select domaines which have decreased their prices sensibly in 2004<br />

and represent good value.<br />

Eustace selects Blain-Gagnard and Franck Grux’s domaine wine. (He has a point - compare Grux’s<br />

prices versus domain Guy Roulot the domaine where he used to be winemaker. <strong>The</strong> latter has<br />

wonderful, but much more expensive wines.) Domaine Etienne Sauzet offers particularly good<br />

value for a big name in 2004. Blain-Gagnard and Mugneret-Gibourg were also well priced. Hilary<br />

Gibbs cites Lafon’s Héritiers du Comte Lafon as an example of a wine where the grower sensibly<br />

decreased his price in 2004.<br />

Growers who have increased their prices steadily in recent years to show a<br />

reasonable increase over the past 10 years<br />

Domaines Mugneret-Gibourg and Chandon de Briailies “Corton, Le Clos du Roi is an affordable<br />

wines to buy and keep for ten years.” I like Jim Eustace’s comment “both domaines are run by<br />

women with their heads screwed on. Both lovely wines not extracted or over oaked.” Jason<br />

Hayes comments, “Top world renowned domaines such as Ramonet, Niellon, Marquis d'Angerville<br />

and Henri Gouges (amongst others) have all demonstrated an admiral attitude towards pricing<br />

that the top properties in Bordeaux would do well to mimic.” Hilary Gibbs selects Roumier and<br />

Dauvissat (but excludes the 2003 for both).<br />

2005 Price indication<br />

Olivier Leflaive trades very early, which is unusual for <strong>Burgundy</strong>, where it is normal for the trade<br />

to buy in the autumn following the vintage. However prices have already been released at Olivier<br />

Leflaive. At the entry to mid-level they have not increased that much, but with the top vineyards<br />

prices have increased much more dramatically. Note that prices increases will probably be<br />

accentuated by the decreased yields in 2005.<br />

<strong>The</strong> merchants were asked to comment upon and grade en primeur prices in relation<br />

to quality over the past year on a scale of 1=poor to 5 =good price/quality. (stars in<br />

bold)<br />

En primeur release prices have been very fair overall over the past ten years.<br />

Vintage Score Comment<br />

1995 ***** Fair to good<br />

1996 ***** Fair (perhaps a touch high for the reds?)<br />

1997 ***** ’97 saw a general price decrease so the price; quality was about right<br />

1998 ***** <strong>The</strong> general consensus was very fair although Amanda Skinner considers<br />

they could have been less expensive “I think that these wines should<br />

have been priced lower, especially as the 1999s looked so promising.<br />

One of the benefits that the Burgundians have over the Bordelais in<br />

terms of their en primeur is their release dates but one which they could


work a little harder on, for the consumer’s benefit!”<br />

1999 ***** Higher prices, but higher quality. Some dissention here. Some thought<br />

prices were little bit expensive, but Eustace says, “A fabulous vintage<br />

with a big crop and not overpriced.”<br />

2000 ***** Maybe the price was a bit high given the millennium factor<br />

2001 ***** Jim Eustace “Not so expensive, but it needed to be good value and it<br />

wasn’t. <strong>The</strong> thing about en primeur is it has to be good value to<br />

persuade people to buy early. It was a difficult vintage to sell. <strong>The</strong><br />

producers did not want to bring prices down, arguing that it was a good<br />

vintage. <strong>The</strong> problem was that customers already had plenty of the good<br />

1999 vintage in their cellars. In 2000 the market had also been good. It<br />

was so delicious and customers bought it to drink while waiting for the<br />

1999, so 2001 suffered – it was not cheap and not forward – a firm<br />

vintage. It was a bit like 1991, people just did not want to buy it. Yet<br />

now 2001 village wine from Côte de Nuits is coming round and is<br />

delicious.”<br />

2002 *****<br />

2003 *****<br />

Everyone agrees that now it is an underestimated vintage for the Côte<br />

de Nuits and for this area it represents good value<br />

Fair value given the quality. Prices were up, but most thought they were<br />

justified.<br />

Is it overpriced for the quality? “Yes,” says Eustace “for top end white<br />

<strong>Burgundy</strong>. As for the reds it is difficult to say as they might turn out to<br />

be the best bottles ever made. <strong>The</strong>y could be very good value, but we<br />

don’t know how they will evolve.”<br />

2004 ***** A little high. Skinner voices the general opinion, “I think that the<br />

decreases should have been greater, especially given the quality of the<br />

up-coming vintage.”


c. Review of wines sold auction and traded<br />

Soethby’s and Christies commented on the auction market in the United States and the UK in<br />

2005, and Berry Brothers & Rudd’s broking department on the trade in the UK.<br />

<strong>The</strong> auction market for fine <strong>Burgundy</strong> is, of course, small in comparison with Bordeaux. “<strong>The</strong>re is<br />

not enough <strong>Burgundy</strong> to satisfy the demands of a blue chip market,” says Damien Tillson of<br />

Soethby’s, London. Small, but not insignificant according to David Elswood, International head of<br />

Christie’s wine department, who remarks that the demand for fine <strong>Burgundy</strong> is “particularly<br />

strong in the US, as the real rarity of the top wines is becoming apparent.”<br />

Over 2005 the UK and US economies have shown varying levels of growth and consumer<br />

confidence. <strong>The</strong> UK continues its above average growth in Europe, while in the US the widening<br />

trade gap is causing concern. However the auction market in the US seems mostly unaffected by<br />

the wider economic picture with many wines being sold above estimate, sometimes dramatically<br />

exceeding their target price. Total sales in Sotheby’s New York <strong>Burgundy</strong> and Rhône sale in<br />

December 2005 reached $4,677,146, the fourth highest total for this auction house. <strong>The</strong> pre-sale<br />

estimate for the wines was $3.2 million and over fifty records were established, emphasising the<br />

level of interest for fine <strong>Burgundy</strong> at auction and in particularly in Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.<br />

It was billed as the most important collection of DRC wines seen at auction, spanning over three<br />

decades including wine from all seven of their grand cru vineyards. All of the 1,771 bottles of<br />

DRC were sold.<br />

Considering the five-year auction performance of three grand cru from Domaine de la Romanée-<br />

Conti (tables given below), it is evident that prices in the US market fluctuate considerably more<br />

than in the UK. Damian Tillson, of Sotheby’s Wine Department comments. “<strong>The</strong> UK market<br />

consists of a higher percentage of trade both buying and selling at auction. With our auctions<br />

being held on a monthly basis the prices tend to fluctuate less. US auctions are less regular and a<br />

far higher percentage of the buyers and sellers are private (the majority in fact).”<br />

Rarity<br />

<strong>The</strong> combination of fewer auctions and private buyers can lead to unexpectedly high prices for<br />

wines in limited supply, as is the case for fine <strong>Burgundy</strong>. At Sotheby’s New York on 1 st December<br />

2001, seven bottles of Montrachet 1978 from DRC estimated at between $7,000 and $10,000<br />

fetched a spectacular $167,500. Although this was an exceptional result, it illustrates the<br />

possibilities for prices far exceeding estimates. Tillson comments, “1978 DRC does well because<br />

you only see it at auction, but even a poor vintage like 1974, which is unlikely to have matured<br />

well, may do surprisingly well, because of its rarity value.” Large formats are particularly in<br />

demand.<br />

<strong>The</strong> high profile of the Sotheby’s auction in December 2005 (only <strong>The</strong> Millennium Wine Cellar and<br />

the Andrew Lloyd Webber Collection can be compared), fuelled exceptional interest, bidders and<br />

prices. However Robert Sleigh at Sotheby’s, New York, reports that prices have remained at<br />

around that level.<br />

On the trading front Berry Brothers and Rudd use the example of La Tâche to show the strength<br />

of the demand for key wines. 1999 La Tâche was released for £225 per bottle. Its value was<br />

£410 in June 2005 and is currently £600 plus.


Domaines most often traded or auctioned in 2005:<br />

David Elswood, observes that “the major auction activity is limited to the very best wines from<br />

top domains with heavy emphasis on the best vintages,” He identifies the most important<br />

Domaines at auction as Jayer, Meo-Camuzet, Faiveley, Coche-Dury, Dugat-Py, Leroy, Rousseau,<br />

Leflaive, de Vogue, Ramonet and Sauzet (in no particular order) and the top three domaines as<br />

DRC, Coche-Dury and Jayer.<br />

It pays to focus domaines with a track record. Tillson remarks that the auction market for<br />

<strong>Burgundy</strong>, outside the few key domaines, can be fickle. Dominique Laurent wines fetched<br />

surprisingly high prices at Sotheby’s in April 2004. “It seems this was a flash in the pan,” says<br />

Tillson. “<strong>The</strong> have subsequently decreased to half the price.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> list of the most tradable twenty domaines brokered by Berry Brothers and Rudd are DRC,<br />

Vogue, Roumier, Mugnier, Cathiard, Engel, Dujac, Rouget, H. Jayer, Bachelet, Serafin, Rousseau,<br />

Lafarge, Lafon, Coche-Dury, Leflaive, A. Ente, Bonneau du Martray, Niellon and Ramonet with<br />

DRC, de Vogue and Leflaive being the strongest performers. BB&R have seen a move towards<br />

purer and more fruit driven styles and demand for wine from the Côte de Nuit above Côte de<br />

Beaune.<br />

As this piece is mentioning specific domaines, it is worth noting that the Burgundians are very<br />

different to the Bordelais. <strong>The</strong>y do not like to see their wine being auctioned or brokered. Quite<br />

rightly they like to see it going to cellars, like yours and mine, where it will be matured to be<br />

drunk and enjoyed, and not to be used as an investment. DRC and Coche are particularly<br />

unhappy to see their wine at auction.<br />

Best performing vintages:<br />

At auction: Elswood reports the older vintages of 1962, 1969, 1971, 1978 and 1985 are showing<br />

the most growth in value, as well as the more recent vintages of 1990, 1999 and 2002.<br />

Berry Bros identify 1985, 1990, 1999 and 2002 as the vintages in most demand. Recent vintages<br />

showing the most growth are 1990 and 1999 and older vintages (pre 1990) are 1978 and 1985.<br />

Good buys:<br />

Vintages in little demand which are undervalued and represent a decent buy to add to your cellar<br />

for more immediate drinking.<br />

Auction: Elswood recommends 1988, 1993, 1995 or the 2001.<br />

Broking: Berry Brothers suggests 2000 and 2001<br />

Looking forward<br />

David Elswood comments, “Rarest <strong>Burgundy</strong> from top domaines and vintages with (most<br />

important) traceable provenance will continue to increase in price in the foreseeable future.” This<br />

has already been illustrated at Christie’s New York (Finest and Rarest March 2,2006) where the<br />

top lot of the sale was a six-magnum case of 1985 Romanée-Conti. This set a new world record


for a case of wine at auction fetching $170,375, the equivalent of over $14,200 a bottle<br />

confirming Elswood’s observation that “rare wines with provenance have almost no top limit for<br />

determined buyers.”<br />

La Tâche , Domaine Romanée-Conti<br />

Vintage<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

Format<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Methuselah<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Magnums<br />

Methuselah<br />

Quantity<br />

Romanée St Vivant, Domaine Romanée-Conti<br />

Vintage<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

Format<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Magnums<br />

Methuselah<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

6<br />

6<br />

3<br />

12<br />

6<br />

3<br />

6<br />

1<br />

6<br />

1<br />

12<br />

6<br />

6<br />

1<br />

Quantity<br />

6<br />

12<br />

12<br />

6<br />

6<br />

6<br />

6<br />

3<br />

12<br />

6<br />

1<br />

12<br />

12<br />

Date Sold<br />

Jun-00<br />

Nov -00<br />

Jan-01<br />

Mar-01<br />

Jul -01<br />

Oct-01<br />

Feb-02<br />

Nov -02<br />

Jun-03<br />

Sep -03<br />

Sep -03<br />

May -04<br />

Nov -05<br />

Nov -05<br />

Date Sold<br />

Jun -00<br />

Nov -00<br />

Nov -00<br />

May -01<br />

Jul -01<br />

Nov -01<br />

Jun -03<br />

Jun -05<br />

Nov -05<br />

Nov -05<br />

Nov -05<br />

Nov -05<br />

Nov -05<br />

Price<br />

£1,430<br />

$3,680<br />

$1,725<br />

$5,175<br />

£1,595<br />

$1,840<br />

$3,738<br />

$5,875<br />

£1,955<br />

$499<br />

$6,169<br />

£2,760<br />

$21,150<br />

$27,025<br />

Price<br />

£770<br />

$2,875<br />

$2,415<br />

$2,185<br />

£825<br />

$1,380<br />

£1,150<br />

£575<br />

$5,288<br />

$11,750<br />

$15,275<br />

£2,530<br />

£2,300<br />

Price per 75cl<br />

£238<br />

$307<br />

$575<br />

$431<br />

£266<br />

$613<br />

$623<br />

$734<br />

£326<br />

$499<br />

$514<br />

£460<br />

$1,763<br />

$3,378<br />

Price per 75cl<br />

£128<br />

$240<br />

$201<br />

$364<br />

£138<br />

$230<br />

£192<br />

£192<br />

$441<br />

$979<br />

$1909<br />

£211<br />

£192


Romanée-Conti, Domaine Romanée-Conti<br />

Vintage<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

1996<br />

Format<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Normal<br />

Jeroboam<br />

Quantity<br />

3<br />

4<br />

2<br />

3<br />

6<br />

1<br />

1<br />

6<br />

1<br />

Date Sold<br />

Nov -00<br />

Mar-01<br />

May -02<br />

Sep-02<br />

Jun -03<br />

Dec-03<br />

May -04<br />

Nov -04<br />

Nov -05<br />

Price<br />

$4,888<br />

$6,038<br />

$4,112<br />

$7,344<br />

£8,625<br />

£1,380<br />

£1840<br />

$15,275<br />

$24,675<br />

Price per 75cl<br />

$1629<br />

$1,510<br />

$2,056<br />

$2,448<br />

£1,438<br />

£1,380<br />

£1,840<br />

$2,546<br />

$6,169


More detailed figures on the production of red and white wine in specific villages on<br />

the Côtes de Nuits and Beaune<br />

Cote de Nuits Production of Red Wine 2004 -05<br />

Chambolle Musigny<br />

Chambolle Musigny 1er cru<br />

Cote de Nuits Villages<br />

Fixin<br />

Fixin 1er cru<br />

Gevrey Chambertin<br />

Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru<br />

Marsannay<br />

Morey Saint Denis<br />

Morey Saint Denis 1er cru<br />

Nuits Saint Georges<br />

Nuits Saint Georges 1er cru<br />

Vosne Romanee<br />

Vosne Romanee 1er cru<br />

Vougeot<br />

Vougeot 1er cru<br />

Volume<br />

(hectolitres)<br />

Appellations 2004 2005 % Change<br />

4,276<br />

2,348<br />

6,754<br />

3,175<br />

708<br />

14,101<br />

3,434<br />

7,870<br />

2,181<br />

1,611<br />

7,202<br />

5,671<br />

4,309<br />

2,380<br />

74<br />

366<br />

3,841<br />

2,087<br />

6,512<br />

3,104<br />

789<br />

15,252<br />

3,575<br />

7,298<br />

2,113<br />

1,793<br />

7,482<br />

5,691<br />

3,791<br />

2,154<br />

95<br />

338<br />

Cote de Nuits Production of White Wine 2004 -05<br />

Cote de Nuits Villages<br />

Fixin<br />

Fixin 1er cru<br />

Marsannay<br />

Morey Saint Denis<br />

Morey Saint Denis 1er cru<br />

Nuits Saint Georges<br />

Nuits Saint Georges 1er cru<br />

Vougeot<br />

Vougeot 1er cru<br />

334<br />

0<br />

0<br />

1,464<br />

161<br />

74<br />

90<br />

522<br />

25<br />

156<br />

Volume<br />

(hectolitres)<br />

18<br />

1,390<br />

119<br />

50<br />

136<br />

185<br />

27<br />

110<br />

-10%<br />

-11%<br />

-4%<br />

-2%<br />

11%<br />

8%<br />

4%<br />

-7%<br />

-3%<br />

11%<br />

4%<br />

0%<br />

-12%<br />

-9%<br />

28%<br />

-8%<br />

Appellation 2004 2005 % Change<br />

282<br />

125<br />

-16%<br />

N/A<br />

N/A<br />

-5%<br />

-26%<br />

-32%<br />

51%<br />

-65%<br />

8%<br />

-29%


Cote de Beaune Production of Red Wine 2004 -05<br />

Aloxe Corton<br />

Aloxe Corton 1er cru<br />

Auxey Duresses<br />

Auxey Duresses 1er cru<br />

Beaune<br />

Beaune 1er cru<br />

Blagny<br />

Blagny 1er cru<br />

Chassagne Montrachet<br />

Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru<br />

Chorey Les Beaune<br />

Cote de Beaune<br />

Cote de Beaune Villages<br />

Ladoix Serrigny<br />

Ladoix Serrigny 1er cru<br />

Maranges<br />

Maranges 1er cru<br />

Meursault<br />

Meursault 1er cru<br />

Monthelie<br />

Monthelie 1er cru<br />

Pernand Vergelesses<br />

Pernand Vergelesses 1er cru<br />

Pommard<br />

Pommard 1er cru<br />

Puligny Montrachet<br />

Puligny Montrachet 1er cru<br />

Saint Aubin<br />

Saint Aubin 1er cru<br />

Saint Romain<br />

Santenay<br />

Santenay 1er cru<br />

Savigny Les Beaune<br />

Savigny Les Beaune 1er cru<br />

Volnay<br />

Volnay 1er cru<br />

Volume (hectolitres)<br />

Appellations 2004<br />

2005 % Change<br />

3650<br />

1504<br />

3105<br />

1205<br />

3066<br />

9116<br />

29<br />

167<br />

4660<br />

1661<br />

5825<br />

872<br />

22<br />

2875<br />

794<br />

3343<br />

3670<br />

499<br />

27<br />

4069<br />

1241<br />

1752<br />

1712<br />

8060<br />

4110<br />

45<br />

25<br />

797<br />

1634<br />

1684<br />

8178<br />

4845<br />

8131<br />

5393<br />

4027<br />

4602<br />

3842<br />

1537<br />

2845<br />

1181<br />

3496<br />

12285<br />

32<br />

172<br />

3669<br />

1571<br />

6266<br />

950<br />

240<br />

2966<br />

713<br />

3114<br />

3469<br />

513<br />

122<br />

3771<br />

1158<br />

1835<br />

1889<br />

9019<br />

5037<br />

49<br />

24<br />

753<br />

1557<br />

1869<br />

6151<br />

3626<br />

8186<br />

6091<br />

4178<br />

5583<br />

5%<br />

2%<br />

-8%<br />

-2%<br />

14%<br />

35%<br />

10%<br />

3%<br />

-21%<br />

-5%<br />

8%<br />

9%<br />

991%<br />

3%<br />

-10%<br />

-7%<br />

-5%<br />

3%<br />

352%<br />

-7%<br />

-7%<br />

5%<br />

10%<br />

12%<br />

23%<br />

9%<br />

-4%<br />

-6%<br />

-5%<br />

11%<br />

-25%<br />

-25%<br />

1%<br />

13%<br />

4%<br />

21%


Cote de Beaune Production of White Wine 2004 -05<br />

Aloxe Corton<br />

Aloxe Corton 1er cru<br />

Auxey Duresses<br />

Auxey Duresses 1er cru<br />

Beaune<br />

Beaune 1er cru<br />

Chassagne Montrachet<br />

Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru<br />

Chorey Les Beaune<br />

Cote de Beaune<br />

Ladoix Serrigny<br />

Ladoix Serrigny 1er cru<br />

Maranges<br />

Maranges 1er cru<br />

Meursault<br />

Meursault 1er cru<br />

Monthelie<br />

Monthelie 1er cru<br />

Pernand Vergelesses<br />

Pernand Vergelesses 1er cru<br />

Puligny Montrachet<br />

Puligny Montrachet 1er cru<br />

Saint Aubin<br />

Saint Aubin 1er cru<br />

Santenay<br />

Santenay 1er cru<br />

Savigny Les Beaune<br />

Savigny Les Beaune 1er cru<br />

St Romain<br />

Volume (hectolitres)<br />

Appellations 2004<br />

2005 % Change<br />

26<br />

0<br />

1798<br />

106<br />

612<br />

1753<br />

4077<br />

6401<br />

290<br />

51p8<br />

438<br />

473<br />

261<br />

50<br />

16212<br />

5309<br />

582<br />

92<br />

1607<br />

738<br />

6492<br />

5377<br />

1435<br />

4702<br />

1845<br />

912<br />

1415<br />

457<br />

2561<br />

65<br />

0<br />

1648<br />

66<br />

660<br />

1643<br />

3447<br />

4696<br />

288<br />

346<br />

433<br />

479<br />

200<br />

54<br />

13831<br />

4805<br />

509<br />

90<br />

1569<br />

724<br />

5685<br />

4528<br />

1242<br />

4204<br />

310<br />

293<br />

1468<br />

450<br />

2642<br />

150%<br />

0%<br />

-8%<br />

-38%<br />

8%<br />

-6%<br />

-15%<br />

-27%<br />

-1%<br />

-33%<br />

-1%<br />

1%<br />

-23%<br />

8%<br />

-15%<br />

-9%<br />

-13%<br />

-2%<br />

-2%<br />

-2%<br />

-12%<br />

-16%<br />

-13%<br />

-11%<br />

-83%<br />

-68%<br />

4%<br />

-2%<br />

3%

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!