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<strong>The</strong> <strong>Burgundy</strong> <strong>Briefing</strong><br />
news, views and tastings <strong>Sarah</strong> <strong>Marsh</strong> MW<br />
Issue 5, May/June 2006<br />
Market report<br />
a. Production and export of the 2004 vintage<br />
b. Current market in the UK: sales in 2005 (2003s) and the en<br />
primeur market for 2004<br />
c. Review of wines sold auction in the UK and States in 2005<br />
Credits: All production and export figures in this document have been sourced directly from the<br />
BIVB. Matthew Martin Bird has contributed to this market report.<br />
a. Production and export of the 2004 vintage<br />
<strong>The</strong> recent production of <strong>Burgundy</strong> is plotted over the past 21 years in the following graph.<br />
(figures are found in the table below). In the mid 1980s the volume of red wine produced was<br />
not significantly more than white. However since 1984 (with the exception of 1986), the volume<br />
of white wine has steadily increased and now far outstrips the production of red. Although the<br />
quantity of red wine produced has increased from 427,079 hectolitres in 1984, to 507,509<br />
hectolitres in 2005, an increase of approximately 20%, this is small in comparison with the 140%<br />
increase in white wine (417,217 hectares in 1984 to 1,007,283 in 2005). <strong>The</strong> graph highlights the<br />
much reduced crop of 2003 as a sharp drop, immediately followed by the substantial 2004<br />
harvest. <strong>The</strong> 2005 vintage is smaller than 2004, showing a decrease of 2% in red production. In<br />
the last 20 years only 2003, 1997 and 1991 had smaller red vintages. However the picture is<br />
quite different for white. <strong>The</strong> decrease in the production of white wine is 4%, but this represents<br />
the largest vintage, after 2004, of the past 20 years.<br />
Volume<br />
(Hl)<br />
4,000,000<br />
3,000,000<br />
2,000,000<br />
1,000,000<br />
0<br />
Volume of <strong>Burgundy</strong> Harvest 1984-2005<br />
1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005<br />
Year<br />
Total<br />
Whites<br />
Reds
-3%<br />
1,514,792<br />
-4%<br />
1,007,283<br />
-2%<br />
507,509<br />
2005<br />
43%<br />
1,568,974<br />
44%<br />
1,052,955<br />
41%<br />
516,019<br />
2004<br />
-28%<br />
1,098,027<br />
-24%<br />
733,291<br />
-35%<br />
364,736<br />
2003<br />
3%<br />
1,530,439<br />
6%<br />
970,968<br />
-2%<br />
559,471<br />
2002<br />
-4%<br />
1,487,784<br />
-3%<br />
915,866<br />
-6%<br />
571,918<br />
2001<br />
-4%<br />
1,550,706<br />
-1%<br />
943,180<br />
-8%<br />
607,526<br />
2000<br />
14%<br />
1,608,190<br />
9%<br />
950,598<br />
23%<br />
657,592<br />
1999<br />
3%<br />
1,404,868<br />
0%<br />
869,477<br />
8%<br />
535,391<br />
1998<br />
-7%<br />
1,366,193<br />
2%<br />
870,752<br />
-20%<br />
495,441<br />
1997<br />
10%<br />
1,473,630<br />
9%<br />
855,649<br />
11%<br />
617,981<br />
1996<br />
1%<br />
1,336,597<br />
5%<br />
782,144<br />
-4%<br />
554,453<br />
1995<br />
3%<br />
1,321,747<br />
2%<br />
744,089<br />
4%<br />
577,658<br />
1994<br />
-1%<br />
1,287,135<br />
-1%<br />
731,639<br />
-1%<br />
555,496<br />
1993<br />
21%<br />
1,302,797<br />
26%<br />
739,489<br />
16%<br />
563,308<br />
1992<br />
-12%<br />
1,076,339<br />
-8%<br />
589,071<br />
-16%<br />
487,268<br />
1991<br />
8%<br />
1,219,621<br />
11%<br />
639,076<br />
4%<br />
580,545<br />
1990<br />
2%<br />
1,130,193<br />
2%<br />
573,915<br />
2%<br />
556,278<br />
1989<br />
5%<br />
1,110,293<br />
9%<br />
563,514<br />
2%<br />
546,779<br />
1988<br />
-9%<br />
1,052,519<br />
1%<br />
519,019<br />
-16%<br />
533,500<br />
1987<br />
23%<br />
1,151,318<br />
9%<br />
514,685<br />
37%<br />
636,633<br />
1986<br />
11%<br />
936,640<br />
13%<br />
472,836<br />
9%<br />
463,804<br />
1985<br />
N/A<br />
844,296<br />
N/A<br />
417,217<br />
N/A<br />
427,079<br />
1984<br />
% Change<br />
Total<br />
% Change<br />
Whites<br />
% Change<br />
Reds<br />
Year<br />
<strong>The</strong> Evolution of the <strong>Burgundy</strong> Harvest 1984 -2005
However at the top end of the market, from village to grand cru on the Côte d’Or, markedly more<br />
red wine is produced than white, as can be seen in the graph and table which follow. About three<br />
and a half (3.57) times as much red wine has been made from grand cru sites as white – and<br />
2.98 times more at village and premier cru level. However over the last six years, there has been<br />
a slight downward trend in the volume produced of red village and premier cru wines (although<br />
1999 does represent a peak in production).<br />
Volume (in hectolitres) at Various Quality Levels of the Cote d’Or 1999 -2005<br />
Village and 1er Cru Blancs<br />
Village and 1er Cru Reds<br />
Grand Cru Whites<br />
Grand Cru Reds<br />
Volume (hl)<br />
1999<br />
68,188<br />
229,612<br />
4,447<br />
15,330<br />
2000<br />
65,242<br />
196,527<br />
4,191<br />
14,148<br />
2001<br />
62,432<br />
188,586<br />
4,016<br />
14,274<br />
2002<br />
65,371<br />
187,913<br />
4,012<br />
13,561<br />
2003<br />
43,142<br />
125,186<br />
2,884<br />
9,434<br />
Production at Various Quality Levels of the Cote d'Or<br />
250,000<br />
200,000<br />
150,000<br />
100,000<br />
50,000<br />
0<br />
1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005<br />
Year<br />
2004<br />
69,365<br />
172,855<br />
4,012<br />
12,571<br />
Village and 1er Cru<br />
Reds<br />
Village and 1er Cru<br />
Blancs<br />
Grand Cru Reds<br />
Grand Cru W hites<br />
2005<br />
58,817<br />
175,674<br />
3,692<br />
13,214<br />
More detailed figures on the production of red and white in specific villages on the cotes may be<br />
found in tables at the end of this document.<br />
<strong>The</strong> following tables and pie charts have been sourced (as seen) from the BIVB.
Export figures for Wines from <strong>Burgundy</strong> 2004-05 (BIVB)
. Current market: UK sales in 2005 (2003s) and the en-primeur market for 2004<br />
This section takes a look at the UK market over the past year. <strong>The</strong> following merchants were<br />
consulted: Domaine Direct (Hilary Gibbs); Hayes, Hanson and Clarke (Jim Eustace); Lay and<br />
Wheeler (Amanda Skinner); O.W. Loeb (Jason Hayes). <strong>The</strong> general mood of the market is<br />
considered, together with emerging trends in buying habits; sales in 2005/6 and the impact of<br />
price and vintage on them.<br />
<strong>The</strong> merchants were then asked to select domaines which offered decent prices in 2004 and<br />
choose growers who have increased prices very reasonably over the past decade.<br />
Just to round up, the merchants were asked to consider en primeur prices in relation to quality<br />
over the past ten years.<br />
This exercise draws on a tiny sample of UK merchants who have shared their thoughts and<br />
observations. It is only an impression of the market and does not pretend to be a comprehensive<br />
reflection.<br />
Mood:<br />
Amanda Skinner CEO of Lay and Wheeler sets the scene with a positive feeling about <strong>Burgundy</strong><br />
from both consumer and trade customers. “<strong>The</strong> client perception is definitely that <strong>Burgundy</strong><br />
offers better value; that the pricing is more “correct” i.e. better price:quality ratio. <strong>The</strong>re is<br />
definitely a recognition of the great strides in quality that have been made in the region in the<br />
past twenty years and I think that the wine merchants have made more effort to clarify the<br />
<strong>Burgundy</strong> “story” and introduce the growers through literature and tastings/dinners. It has to be<br />
said that this has not totally been done for the love of our friends on the Côtes – the margins<br />
that the merchants can achieve on Bordeaux sales are falling all the time – high(er) pricing at the<br />
outset, cellaring and financing costs waiting for maturity, lack of demand and “out of vogue” and<br />
thus it makes commercial sense to focus more strongly on <strong>Burgundy</strong> where the pricing at the<br />
outset may be more realistic, the cellaring and financing costs do not have to be bourne for such<br />
a long period, the wines are more approachable for amateur tasting and assessment, the<br />
quantities are smaller and thus the consumer is encouraged to buy at an earlier stage etc. and all<br />
this contributes to a better margin.”<br />
Jason Hayes also attributes the high level of interest in <strong>Burgundy</strong> to the increased commentary<br />
and information available, pointing out that buying Bordeaux used to be a much simpler task<br />
than buying <strong>Burgundy</strong>, which was little more complicated than “having to choose between buying<br />
Latour or Lafite. Whereas choosing between half a dozen different appellations from two different<br />
growers (even if they are based in the same village) demands careful consideration and no little<br />
knowledge.”<br />
Hayes is also optimistic. “Overall the general mood for <strong>Burgundy</strong> is positive. It is still very much<br />
an evolving market. As recently as ten years ago many of today's household names had no UK<br />
importer.” He, like Amanda Skinner, links this with quality being higher and more consistent than<br />
it has ever been, “the greater technology (and know how) available to growers allows them to<br />
take risks safe in the knowledge that they can get themselves out of jail if the need arises. <strong>The</strong><br />
minimum quality level among the top growers appears to be much higher than previously and<br />
disaster vintages (touch wood) seem a thing of the past.”
At Domaine Direct Hilary Gibbs, who is among the most experienced people in the UK market for<br />
<strong>Burgundy</strong>, finds the recent market mood quite buoyant, “partly because 2003 was quite small, as<br />
well as atypical, so the 2004s for general and everyday consumption and selling have been<br />
welcomed.”<br />
Jim Eustace a director of Hayes, Hanson and Clarke sounds a note of caution. He has noticed<br />
that the bottom end of the market the mood is a bit gloomy. “<strong>The</strong> prices are low and there is a<br />
lot of wine in the cellars. It’s a bit worrying. However for the vineyards in good sites and for the<br />
well-known growers the mood is very buoyant. <strong>The</strong>re is a good market for <strong>Burgundy</strong> with the<br />
exception of the people who have continually increased prices. <strong>The</strong>se wines are sticking in the<br />
2004 vintage however trendy they are.”<br />
Style and colour<br />
Sales trends:<br />
Hayes Hanson and Clarke report that fewer customers are “prepared to shell out for high prices<br />
often linked with bigger showier style, “ says Eustace. “Certain high profile domaines have made<br />
a reputation for a style based upon full maturity, concentration and richness.” Whereas style and<br />
name will probably buffer high prices in the States, in the UK it is not surprising to find<br />
merchants and consumers with reservations.” <strong>The</strong> wines maybe very attractive in youth, but the<br />
worry is over how they will age. <strong>The</strong>se wines are based on tiny yields, for example 25 hl/ha for<br />
village wines,” says Eustace. When yields are this low, he rightly draws attention to the problem<br />
of alcohol, “This may not be apparent at first often, but comes though later as harshness on the<br />
finish.” Hayes, Hanson and Clarke are sufficiently concerned that more reserved elegant style<br />
might be overlooked for showier wine, to wait until September to hold tasting for their<br />
consumers. “We look for finesse and like domaines such as Chandon de Briailles, who use no<br />
new oak. While we want to offer a range of style, we lean to lighter styles. Why pay £500 IB for<br />
a case of village wine that could easily be made somewhere else.”<br />
In the UK the film Sideways had no effect on the sales of red <strong>Burgundy</strong>. At Lay and Wheeler red<br />
<strong>Burgundy</strong> sales are increasing faster than white, but Amanda skinner attributes this is a bias in<br />
their portfolio, the ABC effect and health factors.<br />
Skinner also considers that the effects of better education is resulting in “consumers definitely<br />
know what they like more and more, and village styles are becoming more common parlance –<br />
there is a discernable trend now amongst consumers of the “I know that I love Volnay, what can<br />
you recommend” type of enquiry.”<br />
Quality level<br />
In terms of growth trends in a specific quality level from generic wines to grand cru, this is very<br />
vintage dependent. At Loeb, Hayes comments, “In a great vintage like 2002 one could buy<br />
confidently across the board and village wines offered terrific value. In 2001 the best vineyards<br />
really showed why they are classified so and it was a vintage to concentrate one's purchases on<br />
the top sites.” However at Lay and Wheeler, sales of entry level wine (Olivier Leflaive’s Côte<br />
Chalonnais and Nicolas Potel’s reds from the Hautes Côtes and Nuits St George Vieilles Vignes)<br />
reveal little movement. <strong>The</strong> growth is coming from 1er Cru and Grand Cru level wines from the<br />
Côtes de Beaune and Côtes de Nuits.
A worrying trend towards investment and cherry picking:<br />
Jason Hayes observes a worrying trend in buying habits. “Those who can afford the top vintages<br />
(in Bordeaux) now tend to buy only the top vintages and this trend appears to be creeping in to<br />
the <strong>Burgundy</strong> market as customers overbuy in the best vintages and under buy in those just<br />
below the top level. For example many of the top red wines in 2001 were on a par or just a<br />
fraction below their 2002 equivalent but sales in 2002 of those wines was between five and<br />
tenfold those of 2001. It seems that demand for 2005 may well outstrip the two other recent top<br />
red <strong>Burgundy</strong> vintages of 2002 and 1999 as this trend gathers pace.”<br />
“Clearly increased information makes it is easier for investors to consider <strong>Burgundy</strong> in place of<br />
Bordeaux, although limited quantities make significant purchases difficult. But these new 'cherry<br />
pickers' are still able to have an impact on the market for the top wines, which are in ever more<br />
demand, although again this tends to be only in the very best vintages. Investors lack the loyalty<br />
and the intellectual interest to buy other vintages.” Hayes worried that “we will see a more roller<br />
coaster range of prices over the next ten years, but hopefully not to the extent of Bordeaux.”<br />
It seems that SIPPS had no effect on sales of <strong>Burgundy</strong>. Cautious merchants who waited to see<br />
how they would work before doing anything about it took the right approach. Some merchant<br />
consider that SIPPS would certainly have had an effect on the secondary market for <strong>Burgundy</strong>,<br />
but all agree that any impact on the en primeur market would have been minimal given the<br />
insufficient volume of wine.<br />
A move from Bordeaux I favour of <strong>Burgundy</strong>?<br />
At Lay and Wheeler <strong>Burgundy</strong> sales are increasing as a percentage of total sales and specifically<br />
against Bordeaux sales outside the en primeur cycle. Although Amanda Skinner comments that<br />
they are unlikely to be able to source enough wine to contribute more than 10% of total sales,<br />
she anticipates selling at least twice as much <strong>Burgundy</strong> as Bordeaux in general sales. At the entry<br />
level Skinner comments that people are more inclined to open a bottle of Hautes Cotes de Nuits<br />
2001, from Nicolas Potel than a 2001 Medoc. “You are likely to get much more satisfaction from a<br />
bottle of negociant level Red <strong>Burgundy</strong> than from a Bordeaux Superieur.”<br />
Prices and Vintage style and their effect on sales in 2005:<br />
Hayes sums up the market: “<strong>The</strong>re is rarely a big hike from one year to the next (unlike in<br />
Bordeaux), although some 2003s were increased too much for the market to withstand. Having<br />
said that it was a very, very small vintage. Almost all growers who increased their prices in 2003<br />
brought them back to the level of 2002 for 2004s and some to just below. Certainly price<br />
increases for some of the 2003s, although logical in terms of achieving an aggregate income,<br />
were hard to justify to collectors who has bought heavily in 2002 and felt no great need to buy<br />
wines that overall were less good and in terms of the whites had very limited ageing potential.<br />
Despite lowering our margins significantly sales of 2003 white <strong>Burgundy</strong> en primeur were<br />
negligible.”<br />
Some producers who increased their prices dramatically in 2003 found their agents decided to<br />
‘pass.’ <strong>The</strong> 2003 vintage was so small hardly mattered, but in 2004, even with decreased prices,<br />
some producers may have found their agents less interested in taking wine than before. When<br />
the momentum of sales vintage on vintage has been interrupted and the relationship between<br />
producer-merchant-customer broken, it can take a while to mend.
In 2003 the tiny volumes opened up opportunities for growers beyond the Côte d’Or to make an<br />
impression on the overseas markets. At Lay and Wheeler they turned to the Maçonnais as a<br />
source of entry level chardonnay. (For more on good quality and reasonable priced wines from<br />
the Maçonnais, see Tasting 3 in this issue).<br />
2003 Reds: “2003 reds were not easy to sell either because of the price,” comments Eustace<br />
and HH&C chose not to buy from some domaines whose prices were “definitely too high. It was<br />
damaging when domaines increased 25%, as customers were not interested in buying.” Eustace<br />
considers that it has to be viewed as a vintage where one was not going to make money and<br />
comments that it was a mistake for growers to set their prices to compensate for low yields.<br />
Those who “took a hit” and priced sensibly included Christophe Roumier and Blain-Gagnard.<br />
Sales of white in 2005:<br />
2003 white: Eustace also reports sales of white <strong>Burgundy</strong> were down in the 2003 vintage.<br />
“People had it in their heads that 2003 whites were not very good, but this is a shame since the<br />
2003 whites are delicious. <strong>The</strong>se are not wines for keeping, but for drinking and enjoying when<br />
young. This is a vintage where the grapes were fully ripe, no rot, absolutely lovely, yet people<br />
are turning their backs on it. Ridiculous!” It seems that wines sold well enough at the bottom to<br />
middle level, but at the top end, sales were sluggish as people, understandably, are not keen to<br />
spend £50 on a wine they cannot keep.<br />
Chablis: Chablis was perhaps less affected. Eustace found sales as normal with the 2003 vintage<br />
(Domaines Raveneau, Christian Moreau and Daniel Dampt). Hayes concurs, remarking that<br />
restaurant sales are very consistent for Chablis across the various levels, but finds collectors tend<br />
to stick to the top vintages. Amanda Skinner confirms this “2003 was undoubtedly a hard sell to<br />
the purists but being quite showy and for earlier drinking, sales were definitely made up amongst<br />
the hotel and restaurant and corporate clientele.”<br />
At Loeb, Hayes comments that Chablis “is often viewed as an alternative to white <strong>Burgundy</strong> when<br />
considering what to pluck from the cellar and therefore tends to have a limited role. Also, its<br />
ageing ability is often overlooked.” This is a pity and I agree wholeheartedly with Amanda<br />
Skinner, who comments “I think that the 2004 Chablis were outstanding personally and but I<br />
suspect that with all the hype over 2005, 2004 will be one of those vintages which is not<br />
recognised for what it offers and is rather overlooked. Happy the people who have bought these<br />
wines – they are getting exceptional value for money and have a great deal of pleasure to look<br />
forward to.” It is not surprising that Hilary Gibbs has discerned some excitement in Domaine<br />
Direct customers (hard core <strong>Burgundy</strong> lovers) with the return in the 2004s of more classical<br />
structured wine.<br />
2004s: This was a vintage that suffered from a bad press early on, particularly reds, which was<br />
a pity as there is plenty of good wine in 2004. However Loeb report that customers who tasted<br />
the wines at their London tasting in January actually bought more reds. <strong>The</strong> merchants felt<br />
growers’ prices were a little too high for the 2004 vintage and would have liked to them come<br />
down more than they did post the 2003 vintage. However most merchants lowered their margins<br />
in 2004 to encourage sales. <strong>The</strong>re was a general feeling that customers didn’t need to buy – a<br />
combination of good recent vintages in several regions and the 2005 on the horizon. 2004 was<br />
always going to be difficult as people are waiting for 2005, although Hilary Gibbs considers the<br />
effect was mainly for reds for cellaring (Domaine Direct chose not to do an offer for 2004). <strong>The</strong>re<br />
are some good buys to be had in 2004 and in the future it may well be considered an under<br />
estimated vintage. (I made a selection of best buys in issue 4 and the merchants give their tips<br />
below). Also it offers the opportunity for new customers to get on the allocation ladder by buying<br />
some 2004, putting them in a preferential position to get hold of 2005.
£$£$£$£$£$£$<br />
Price:<br />
<strong>The</strong> merchants select domaines which have decreased their prices sensibly in 2004<br />
and represent good value.<br />
Eustace selects Blain-Gagnard and Franck Grux’s domaine wine. (He has a point - compare Grux’s<br />
prices versus domain Guy Roulot the domaine where he used to be winemaker. <strong>The</strong> latter has<br />
wonderful, but much more expensive wines.) Domaine Etienne Sauzet offers particularly good<br />
value for a big name in 2004. Blain-Gagnard and Mugneret-Gibourg were also well priced. Hilary<br />
Gibbs cites Lafon’s Héritiers du Comte Lafon as an example of a wine where the grower sensibly<br />
decreased his price in 2004.<br />
Growers who have increased their prices steadily in recent years to show a<br />
reasonable increase over the past 10 years<br />
Domaines Mugneret-Gibourg and Chandon de Briailies “Corton, Le Clos du Roi is an affordable<br />
wines to buy and keep for ten years.” I like Jim Eustace’s comment “both domaines are run by<br />
women with their heads screwed on. Both lovely wines not extracted or over oaked.” Jason<br />
Hayes comments, “Top world renowned domaines such as Ramonet, Niellon, Marquis d'Angerville<br />
and Henri Gouges (amongst others) have all demonstrated an admiral attitude towards pricing<br />
that the top properties in Bordeaux would do well to mimic.” Hilary Gibbs selects Roumier and<br />
Dauvissat (but excludes the 2003 for both).<br />
2005 Price indication<br />
Olivier Leflaive trades very early, which is unusual for <strong>Burgundy</strong>, where it is normal for the trade<br />
to buy in the autumn following the vintage. However prices have already been released at Olivier<br />
Leflaive. At the entry to mid-level they have not increased that much, but with the top vineyards<br />
prices have increased much more dramatically. Note that prices increases will probably be<br />
accentuated by the decreased yields in 2005.<br />
<strong>The</strong> merchants were asked to comment upon and grade en primeur prices in relation<br />
to quality over the past year on a scale of 1=poor to 5 =good price/quality. (stars in<br />
bold)<br />
En primeur release prices have been very fair overall over the past ten years.<br />
Vintage Score Comment<br />
1995 ***** Fair to good<br />
1996 ***** Fair (perhaps a touch high for the reds?)<br />
1997 ***** ’97 saw a general price decrease so the price; quality was about right<br />
1998 ***** <strong>The</strong> general consensus was very fair although Amanda Skinner considers<br />
they could have been less expensive “I think that these wines should<br />
have been priced lower, especially as the 1999s looked so promising.<br />
One of the benefits that the Burgundians have over the Bordelais in<br />
terms of their en primeur is their release dates but one which they could
work a little harder on, for the consumer’s benefit!”<br />
1999 ***** Higher prices, but higher quality. Some dissention here. Some thought<br />
prices were little bit expensive, but Eustace says, “A fabulous vintage<br />
with a big crop and not overpriced.”<br />
2000 ***** Maybe the price was a bit high given the millennium factor<br />
2001 ***** Jim Eustace “Not so expensive, but it needed to be good value and it<br />
wasn’t. <strong>The</strong> thing about en primeur is it has to be good value to<br />
persuade people to buy early. It was a difficult vintage to sell. <strong>The</strong><br />
producers did not want to bring prices down, arguing that it was a good<br />
vintage. <strong>The</strong> problem was that customers already had plenty of the good<br />
1999 vintage in their cellars. In 2000 the market had also been good. It<br />
was so delicious and customers bought it to drink while waiting for the<br />
1999, so 2001 suffered – it was not cheap and not forward – a firm<br />
vintage. It was a bit like 1991, people just did not want to buy it. Yet<br />
now 2001 village wine from Côte de Nuits is coming round and is<br />
delicious.”<br />
2002 *****<br />
2003 *****<br />
Everyone agrees that now it is an underestimated vintage for the Côte<br />
de Nuits and for this area it represents good value<br />
Fair value given the quality. Prices were up, but most thought they were<br />
justified.<br />
Is it overpriced for the quality? “Yes,” says Eustace “for top end white<br />
<strong>Burgundy</strong>. As for the reds it is difficult to say as they might turn out to<br />
be the best bottles ever made. <strong>The</strong>y could be very good value, but we<br />
don’t know how they will evolve.”<br />
2004 ***** A little high. Skinner voices the general opinion, “I think that the<br />
decreases should have been greater, especially given the quality of the<br />
up-coming vintage.”
c. Review of wines sold auction and traded<br />
Soethby’s and Christies commented on the auction market in the United States and the UK in<br />
2005, and Berry Brothers & Rudd’s broking department on the trade in the UK.<br />
<strong>The</strong> auction market for fine <strong>Burgundy</strong> is, of course, small in comparison with Bordeaux. “<strong>The</strong>re is<br />
not enough <strong>Burgundy</strong> to satisfy the demands of a blue chip market,” says Damien Tillson of<br />
Soethby’s, London. Small, but not insignificant according to David Elswood, International head of<br />
Christie’s wine department, who remarks that the demand for fine <strong>Burgundy</strong> is “particularly<br />
strong in the US, as the real rarity of the top wines is becoming apparent.”<br />
Over 2005 the UK and US economies have shown varying levels of growth and consumer<br />
confidence. <strong>The</strong> UK continues its above average growth in Europe, while in the US the widening<br />
trade gap is causing concern. However the auction market in the US seems mostly unaffected by<br />
the wider economic picture with many wines being sold above estimate, sometimes dramatically<br />
exceeding their target price. Total sales in Sotheby’s New York <strong>Burgundy</strong> and Rhône sale in<br />
December 2005 reached $4,677,146, the fourth highest total for this auction house. <strong>The</strong> pre-sale<br />
estimate for the wines was $3.2 million and over fifty records were established, emphasising the<br />
level of interest for fine <strong>Burgundy</strong> at auction and in particularly in Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.<br />
It was billed as the most important collection of DRC wines seen at auction, spanning over three<br />
decades including wine from all seven of their grand cru vineyards. All of the 1,771 bottles of<br />
DRC were sold.<br />
Considering the five-year auction performance of three grand cru from Domaine de la Romanée-<br />
Conti (tables given below), it is evident that prices in the US market fluctuate considerably more<br />
than in the UK. Damian Tillson, of Sotheby’s Wine Department comments. “<strong>The</strong> UK market<br />
consists of a higher percentage of trade both buying and selling at auction. With our auctions<br />
being held on a monthly basis the prices tend to fluctuate less. US auctions are less regular and a<br />
far higher percentage of the buyers and sellers are private (the majority in fact).”<br />
Rarity<br />
<strong>The</strong> combination of fewer auctions and private buyers can lead to unexpectedly high prices for<br />
wines in limited supply, as is the case for fine <strong>Burgundy</strong>. At Sotheby’s New York on 1 st December<br />
2001, seven bottles of Montrachet 1978 from DRC estimated at between $7,000 and $10,000<br />
fetched a spectacular $167,500. Although this was an exceptional result, it illustrates the<br />
possibilities for prices far exceeding estimates. Tillson comments, “1978 DRC does well because<br />
you only see it at auction, but even a poor vintage like 1974, which is unlikely to have matured<br />
well, may do surprisingly well, because of its rarity value.” Large formats are particularly in<br />
demand.<br />
<strong>The</strong> high profile of the Sotheby’s auction in December 2005 (only <strong>The</strong> Millennium Wine Cellar and<br />
the Andrew Lloyd Webber Collection can be compared), fuelled exceptional interest, bidders and<br />
prices. However Robert Sleigh at Sotheby’s, New York, reports that prices have remained at<br />
around that level.<br />
On the trading front Berry Brothers and Rudd use the example of La Tâche to show the strength<br />
of the demand for key wines. 1999 La Tâche was released for £225 per bottle. Its value was<br />
£410 in June 2005 and is currently £600 plus.
Domaines most often traded or auctioned in 2005:<br />
David Elswood, observes that “the major auction activity is limited to the very best wines from<br />
top domains with heavy emphasis on the best vintages,” He identifies the most important<br />
Domaines at auction as Jayer, Meo-Camuzet, Faiveley, Coche-Dury, Dugat-Py, Leroy, Rousseau,<br />
Leflaive, de Vogue, Ramonet and Sauzet (in no particular order) and the top three domaines as<br />
DRC, Coche-Dury and Jayer.<br />
It pays to focus domaines with a track record. Tillson remarks that the auction market for<br />
<strong>Burgundy</strong>, outside the few key domaines, can be fickle. Dominique Laurent wines fetched<br />
surprisingly high prices at Sotheby’s in April 2004. “It seems this was a flash in the pan,” says<br />
Tillson. “<strong>The</strong> have subsequently decreased to half the price.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> list of the most tradable twenty domaines brokered by Berry Brothers and Rudd are DRC,<br />
Vogue, Roumier, Mugnier, Cathiard, Engel, Dujac, Rouget, H. Jayer, Bachelet, Serafin, Rousseau,<br />
Lafarge, Lafon, Coche-Dury, Leflaive, A. Ente, Bonneau du Martray, Niellon and Ramonet with<br />
DRC, de Vogue and Leflaive being the strongest performers. BB&R have seen a move towards<br />
purer and more fruit driven styles and demand for wine from the Côte de Nuit above Côte de<br />
Beaune.<br />
As this piece is mentioning specific domaines, it is worth noting that the Burgundians are very<br />
different to the Bordelais. <strong>The</strong>y do not like to see their wine being auctioned or brokered. Quite<br />
rightly they like to see it going to cellars, like yours and mine, where it will be matured to be<br />
drunk and enjoyed, and not to be used as an investment. DRC and Coche are particularly<br />
unhappy to see their wine at auction.<br />
Best performing vintages:<br />
At auction: Elswood reports the older vintages of 1962, 1969, 1971, 1978 and 1985 are showing<br />
the most growth in value, as well as the more recent vintages of 1990, 1999 and 2002.<br />
Berry Bros identify 1985, 1990, 1999 and 2002 as the vintages in most demand. Recent vintages<br />
showing the most growth are 1990 and 1999 and older vintages (pre 1990) are 1978 and 1985.<br />
Good buys:<br />
Vintages in little demand which are undervalued and represent a decent buy to add to your cellar<br />
for more immediate drinking.<br />
Auction: Elswood recommends 1988, 1993, 1995 or the 2001.<br />
Broking: Berry Brothers suggests 2000 and 2001<br />
Looking forward<br />
David Elswood comments, “Rarest <strong>Burgundy</strong> from top domaines and vintages with (most<br />
important) traceable provenance will continue to increase in price in the foreseeable future.” This<br />
has already been illustrated at Christie’s New York (Finest and Rarest March 2,2006) where the<br />
top lot of the sale was a six-magnum case of 1985 Romanée-Conti. This set a new world record
for a case of wine at auction fetching $170,375, the equivalent of over $14,200 a bottle<br />
confirming Elswood’s observation that “rare wines with provenance have almost no top limit for<br />
determined buyers.”<br />
La Tâche , Domaine Romanée-Conti<br />
Vintage<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
Format<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Methuselah<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Magnums<br />
Methuselah<br />
Quantity<br />
Romanée St Vivant, Domaine Romanée-Conti<br />
Vintage<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
Format<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Magnums<br />
Methuselah<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
6<br />
6<br />
3<br />
12<br />
6<br />
3<br />
6<br />
1<br />
6<br />
1<br />
12<br />
6<br />
6<br />
1<br />
Quantity<br />
6<br />
12<br />
12<br />
6<br />
6<br />
6<br />
6<br />
3<br />
12<br />
6<br />
1<br />
12<br />
12<br />
Date Sold<br />
Jun-00<br />
Nov -00<br />
Jan-01<br />
Mar-01<br />
Jul -01<br />
Oct-01<br />
Feb-02<br />
Nov -02<br />
Jun-03<br />
Sep -03<br />
Sep -03<br />
May -04<br />
Nov -05<br />
Nov -05<br />
Date Sold<br />
Jun -00<br />
Nov -00<br />
Nov -00<br />
May -01<br />
Jul -01<br />
Nov -01<br />
Jun -03<br />
Jun -05<br />
Nov -05<br />
Nov -05<br />
Nov -05<br />
Nov -05<br />
Nov -05<br />
Price<br />
£1,430<br />
$3,680<br />
$1,725<br />
$5,175<br />
£1,595<br />
$1,840<br />
$3,738<br />
$5,875<br />
£1,955<br />
$499<br />
$6,169<br />
£2,760<br />
$21,150<br />
$27,025<br />
Price<br />
£770<br />
$2,875<br />
$2,415<br />
$2,185<br />
£825<br />
$1,380<br />
£1,150<br />
£575<br />
$5,288<br />
$11,750<br />
$15,275<br />
£2,530<br />
£2,300<br />
Price per 75cl<br />
£238<br />
$307<br />
$575<br />
$431<br />
£266<br />
$613<br />
$623<br />
$734<br />
£326<br />
$499<br />
$514<br />
£460<br />
$1,763<br />
$3,378<br />
Price per 75cl<br />
£128<br />
$240<br />
$201<br />
$364<br />
£138<br />
$230<br />
£192<br />
£192<br />
$441<br />
$979<br />
$1909<br />
£211<br />
£192
Romanée-Conti, Domaine Romanée-Conti<br />
Vintage<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
1996<br />
Format<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Normal<br />
Jeroboam<br />
Quantity<br />
3<br />
4<br />
2<br />
3<br />
6<br />
1<br />
1<br />
6<br />
1<br />
Date Sold<br />
Nov -00<br />
Mar-01<br />
May -02<br />
Sep-02<br />
Jun -03<br />
Dec-03<br />
May -04<br />
Nov -04<br />
Nov -05<br />
Price<br />
$4,888<br />
$6,038<br />
$4,112<br />
$7,344<br />
£8,625<br />
£1,380<br />
£1840<br />
$15,275<br />
$24,675<br />
Price per 75cl<br />
$1629<br />
$1,510<br />
$2,056<br />
$2,448<br />
£1,438<br />
£1,380<br />
£1,840<br />
$2,546<br />
$6,169
More detailed figures on the production of red and white wine in specific villages on<br />
the Côtes de Nuits and Beaune<br />
Cote de Nuits Production of Red Wine 2004 -05<br />
Chambolle Musigny<br />
Chambolle Musigny 1er cru<br />
Cote de Nuits Villages<br />
Fixin<br />
Fixin 1er cru<br />
Gevrey Chambertin<br />
Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru<br />
Marsannay<br />
Morey Saint Denis<br />
Morey Saint Denis 1er cru<br />
Nuits Saint Georges<br />
Nuits Saint Georges 1er cru<br />
Vosne Romanee<br />
Vosne Romanee 1er cru<br />
Vougeot<br />
Vougeot 1er cru<br />
Volume<br />
(hectolitres)<br />
Appellations 2004 2005 % Change<br />
4,276<br />
2,348<br />
6,754<br />
3,175<br />
708<br />
14,101<br />
3,434<br />
7,870<br />
2,181<br />
1,611<br />
7,202<br />
5,671<br />
4,309<br />
2,380<br />
74<br />
366<br />
3,841<br />
2,087<br />
6,512<br />
3,104<br />
789<br />
15,252<br />
3,575<br />
7,298<br />
2,113<br />
1,793<br />
7,482<br />
5,691<br />
3,791<br />
2,154<br />
95<br />
338<br />
Cote de Nuits Production of White Wine 2004 -05<br />
Cote de Nuits Villages<br />
Fixin<br />
Fixin 1er cru<br />
Marsannay<br />
Morey Saint Denis<br />
Morey Saint Denis 1er cru<br />
Nuits Saint Georges<br />
Nuits Saint Georges 1er cru<br />
Vougeot<br />
Vougeot 1er cru<br />
334<br />
0<br />
0<br />
1,464<br />
161<br />
74<br />
90<br />
522<br />
25<br />
156<br />
Volume<br />
(hectolitres)<br />
18<br />
1,390<br />
119<br />
50<br />
136<br />
185<br />
27<br />
110<br />
-10%<br />
-11%<br />
-4%<br />
-2%<br />
11%<br />
8%<br />
4%<br />
-7%<br />
-3%<br />
11%<br />
4%<br />
0%<br />
-12%<br />
-9%<br />
28%<br />
-8%<br />
Appellation 2004 2005 % Change<br />
282<br />
125<br />
-16%<br />
N/A<br />
N/A<br />
-5%<br />
-26%<br />
-32%<br />
51%<br />
-65%<br />
8%<br />
-29%
Cote de Beaune Production of Red Wine 2004 -05<br />
Aloxe Corton<br />
Aloxe Corton 1er cru<br />
Auxey Duresses<br />
Auxey Duresses 1er cru<br />
Beaune<br />
Beaune 1er cru<br />
Blagny<br />
Blagny 1er cru<br />
Chassagne Montrachet<br />
Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru<br />
Chorey Les Beaune<br />
Cote de Beaune<br />
Cote de Beaune Villages<br />
Ladoix Serrigny<br />
Ladoix Serrigny 1er cru<br />
Maranges<br />
Maranges 1er cru<br />
Meursault<br />
Meursault 1er cru<br />
Monthelie<br />
Monthelie 1er cru<br />
Pernand Vergelesses<br />
Pernand Vergelesses 1er cru<br />
Pommard<br />
Pommard 1er cru<br />
Puligny Montrachet<br />
Puligny Montrachet 1er cru<br />
Saint Aubin<br />
Saint Aubin 1er cru<br />
Saint Romain<br />
Santenay<br />
Santenay 1er cru<br />
Savigny Les Beaune<br />
Savigny Les Beaune 1er cru<br />
Volnay<br />
Volnay 1er cru<br />
Volume (hectolitres)<br />
Appellations 2004<br />
2005 % Change<br />
3650<br />
1504<br />
3105<br />
1205<br />
3066<br />
9116<br />
29<br />
167<br />
4660<br />
1661<br />
5825<br />
872<br />
22<br />
2875<br />
794<br />
3343<br />
3670<br />
499<br />
27<br />
4069<br />
1241<br />
1752<br />
1712<br />
8060<br />
4110<br />
45<br />
25<br />
797<br />
1634<br />
1684<br />
8178<br />
4845<br />
8131<br />
5393<br />
4027<br />
4602<br />
3842<br />
1537<br />
2845<br />
1181<br />
3496<br />
12285<br />
32<br />
172<br />
3669<br />
1571<br />
6266<br />
950<br />
240<br />
2966<br />
713<br />
3114<br />
3469<br />
513<br />
122<br />
3771<br />
1158<br />
1835<br />
1889<br />
9019<br />
5037<br />
49<br />
24<br />
753<br />
1557<br />
1869<br />
6151<br />
3626<br />
8186<br />
6091<br />
4178<br />
5583<br />
5%<br />
2%<br />
-8%<br />
-2%<br />
14%<br />
35%<br />
10%<br />
3%<br />
-21%<br />
-5%<br />
8%<br />
9%<br />
991%<br />
3%<br />
-10%<br />
-7%<br />
-5%<br />
3%<br />
352%<br />
-7%<br />
-7%<br />
5%<br />
10%<br />
12%<br />
23%<br />
9%<br />
-4%<br />
-6%<br />
-5%<br />
11%<br />
-25%<br />
-25%<br />
1%<br />
13%<br />
4%<br />
21%
Cote de Beaune Production of White Wine 2004 -05<br />
Aloxe Corton<br />
Aloxe Corton 1er cru<br />
Auxey Duresses<br />
Auxey Duresses 1er cru<br />
Beaune<br />
Beaune 1er cru<br />
Chassagne Montrachet<br />
Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru<br />
Chorey Les Beaune<br />
Cote de Beaune<br />
Ladoix Serrigny<br />
Ladoix Serrigny 1er cru<br />
Maranges<br />
Maranges 1er cru<br />
Meursault<br />
Meursault 1er cru<br />
Monthelie<br />
Monthelie 1er cru<br />
Pernand Vergelesses<br />
Pernand Vergelesses 1er cru<br />
Puligny Montrachet<br />
Puligny Montrachet 1er cru<br />
Saint Aubin<br />
Saint Aubin 1er cru<br />
Santenay<br />
Santenay 1er cru<br />
Savigny Les Beaune<br />
Savigny Les Beaune 1er cru<br />
St Romain<br />
Volume (hectolitres)<br />
Appellations 2004<br />
2005 % Change<br />
26<br />
0<br />
1798<br />
106<br />
612<br />
1753<br />
4077<br />
6401<br />
290<br />
51p8<br />
438<br />
473<br />
261<br />
50<br />
16212<br />
5309<br />
582<br />
92<br />
1607<br />
738<br />
6492<br />
5377<br />
1435<br />
4702<br />
1845<br />
912<br />
1415<br />
457<br />
2561<br />
65<br />
0<br />
1648<br />
66<br />
660<br />
1643<br />
3447<br />
4696<br />
288<br />
346<br />
433<br />
479<br />
200<br />
54<br />
13831<br />
4805<br />
509<br />
90<br />
1569<br />
724<br />
5685<br />
4528<br />
1242<br />
4204<br />
310<br />
293<br />
1468<br />
450<br />
2642<br />
150%<br />
0%<br />
-8%<br />
-38%<br />
8%<br />
-6%<br />
-15%<br />
-27%<br />
-1%<br />
-33%<br />
-1%<br />
1%<br />
-23%<br />
8%<br />
-15%<br />
-9%<br />
-13%<br />
-2%<br />
-2%<br />
-2%<br />
-12%<br />
-16%<br />
-13%<br />
-11%<br />
-83%<br />
-68%<br />
4%<br />
-2%<br />
3%