En primeur tasting - Burgundy Briefing

The Burgundy Briefing
news, views and tastings
Sarah Marsh MW
Issue 3, January/February 2006
En Primeur Tasting
2004 Red
A quick summary of assessments
Bourgogne
Village
Premier cru/
grand cru
Assuming it is correctly made with no faults and meets basic
expectations, it could range from sound, very sound, pleasant,
very pleasant, attractive to very attractive.
From sound (although this would be disappointing at this level)
Pleasant up to attractive (correct and a bit more interesting)
Good, very good
Particularly good (top quality village)
Pleasant, attractive (damned by faint praise)
Good, very good (A basic rating at this level ie a sound to
attractive premier cru which meets all minimum expectations
in a premium village. This might be really quite good in a
village where expectations are not so high, such as Santenay,
St Aubin etc)
Particularly good (a good premier/grand cru – wine with
merit)
Fine (premium wine with flair)
Very fine (excellent)
Outstanding (excellent with x factor)
From Gevrey-Chambertin to Volnay
Domaine Claude Dugat, Gevrey-Chambertin
“I think 2004 respects Pinot Noir very well, good acidity and firm tannins, less ripe
fruit than 2003,” comments Claude Dugat. This domaine has very pure fruit; the
distilled essence of Pinot Noir, deliciously translated this year. These wines are
classic, pure and vigorous.

Bourgogne
Perfumed and quite intense. Lovely fruit-driven palate, really concentrated for
Bourgogne with vibrancy and raciness. A very even wine. Top notch quality and
among the most attractive Bourgogne I tasted on this trip. From 2006.
Gevrey-Chambertin
Again really lovely red, crunchy fruit of excellent intensity. Full and rich attack, but
not at all fat, very vibrant and racy with lively acidity and deliciously fresh fruit right
though to the finish. A well defined wine with a firm and direct core. A very good
village wine. Very to particularly good. From 2008
Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru
This is not as forward, but shows contained vigour on the palate. Dark, intense and
juicy fruit, slightly astringent tannins. Long and focused. Very good+ From 2009
Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques
Mineral, slightly smoky and rather reserved. Full, generous palate, dense with smooth
substantial tannins, deeply fruity, but also elegant and composed with a thread of
minerality through to a well sustained finish. Fine. From 2010.
Charmes-Chambertin
Very expressive, pure and vibrant red fruit, delicious.
equilibrium. Fine. From 2009.
Very good intensity and
Griotte-Chambertin
Rather more exotic and lifted dark red fruit - very clear and succulent. Medium-full
with greater density and a finely compact middle palate, concentrated and
sophisticated. Very fine+. From 2010
Chapelle-Chambertin
Very aromatic, black and spicy with nuances of orange and ground cardamom.
Seductive at first and then clamps down to a more austere structure, rugged, much
more masculine than the Griotte, dense tight and grainy tannins. Broad shoulders to
this wine. Brooding with a long powerful dark finish. Very fine. From 2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Enotria Winecellars; Howard Ripley.
Robert Kacher Selections.
Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin
This is Bernard Dugat-Py’s 30 th vintage, so it is something of a milestone. He
describes it as an “interesting vintage.” It hailed 3 times. He picked at an average of
28hl/ha. No chaptalisation and no acidification. The acidity is good and perhaps a
little higher than normal, but he doesn’t make an analysis. The fermentation lasts 15-
30 days. “I want to respect the vintage as much as possible and to have as little
intervention as possible.” The malolactic fermentation had just finished in late

November. Dugat-Py likes the long malolactic. He considers that it makes the wine
sweeter and more rounded, while a short malolactic makes a drier wine.
Supremely concentrated and elegant style at this domaine with consistent quality
across the range. The vaulted cellar in which we tasted was a fittingly impressive
setting for this aromatic, intense and sophisticated set of wines.
We started with three very good village wines. All show great typicité.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes
30-50 year old vines
Rich, full aroma of ripe dark summer fruits, which are reflected on the palate.
Rounded and ripe, attractively robust with sturdy tannins with slight, not
unattractive astringency. Good extract for village wine and a punchy finish. Good to
very good. From 2008
Vosne-Romanée, Vielles Vignes
A 0.32 parcel with vines over 60 years old.
Softer and subtle aroma. This is a floral and aromatic wine with sleek tannins,
raspberry fruit and a creamy texture. It is medium bodied, very juicy and gently, but
well structured and balanced with good substance for village wine. Delicious. Very
good to particularly good. From 2008
Pommard, Vieilles Vignes
The vines are More than 70 years old
Much more assertive and blacker aroma. A masculine and rich wine, but also
vigorous. Meaty and slightly tarry tannins and vibrant acidity. Good firm middle
palate and a really good finish here. Also very to particularly good. From 2009
Gevrey-Chambertin, Coeur du Roi
The vines are 50-95 years old. They yielded just 22 hl/ha in 2004
Reduced on the nose. Good impact on the palate. Thick, muscular tannins with an
edge of astringency, lively acidity, black spicy and slightly tarry fruit. Full bodied,
dense and firmly structured masculine wine. These three wines are all very
consistent in quality. Particularly good. From 2010.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Petite Chapelle
A lovely aroma, very floral and spicy - just delicious. Seductive attack leads onto
sweet fruit balanced by lively acidity, rounded medium body and smoothly fluid
tannins. Very harmonious, long and even across the palate. Not the most powerful
Gevrey, but well mannered. Nudging into fine. From 2010
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux
60 year old vines
Much more wood evident on the nose here and on the palate. The palate is narrower,
focused and direct, slightly sinewy with dense and tarry fruit and juicy acidity.
Medium-bodied with a distinct minerality. Particularly good+. From 2010
Charmes-Chambertin
Full, intense, with a somewhat spicy and mulberry aroma. Sweet entry to the palate.
A supple textured, very harmonious and luscious wine. A palate that flows like a river
of velvet with a strong core beneath. Subtly structured and persistent. Very
composed. A fine+ Charmes-Chambertin. From 2012

Mazoyères-Chambertin
This couldn’t be more different from the Charmes despite the proximity. Upright
aroma, black, direct and stony. Stony on the palate too and a touch mineral, taut
wine, deep and tightly grained, firm, masculine with rich fruit. Very well structured
wine, architectural, with a very long and spicy finish. Fine to very fine. From 2012/14
Mazis-Chambertin
Dark blue fruit a touch of gunpowder. More generously fruity than the Mazoyères, but
not as perfumed as the Charmes. Deep blueberry fruit carries right through to the
back palate. The tannins are smooth, but more structural, not as velvety as Charmes.
This wine has excellent intensity, backbone and pace and is rather more discreet and
restrained then its predecessors. Very fine. From 2012
Chambertin
More than 85 year old vines. No destemming, whole bunch.
Dense, black and inky aroma. Impenetrable palate, brooding, deeply concentrated,
burly, solid tannins and compact middle with architectural framework and a seriously
long finish. Firm 2012/14. Very fine to outstanding.
Stockists
UK: Lea & Sandeman; Tanners; Thorman Hunt.
USA: Weygandt Metzler Importing Ltd.
Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Denis Mortet comments on the amount of work necessary in 2004 to open up the vine
to avoid oidium. Unusually he had to use preventative treatments, because the risk
was high. He points out he used no chaptalisation as the grapes reached 13-14
potential alcohol naturally. He did a selection both in the vines and on the sorting
table. The grapes are bigger than in 2001 and 2003, so in some parcels he did two
green harvests, others not at all. Mortet describes it as a good to very good vintage,
like 2001 but softer and better (phenolic) maturity than in 2001. “Very equilibrium
with good acidity. Good maturity and good definition of the terroir.”
Very accomplished in a modern, sleek style.
Bourgogne
Full fruity attack. Firm, slightly astringent tannins, bullish with lots of grip. A good
Bourgogne, but not among my favourites. From 2007/8
Marsannay, Les Longerois
Smoky aroma. Very firm, austere structure, quite spicy and reasonably compact. Taut
tannins, firm acidity, tense and vibrant with good structure and an assertive finish.
Good+ Marsannay. From 2008
Fixin

This is a new wine for Mortet. The vines are 40 years old.
Lifted, bright and pure aroma. Very straight, pure, linear wine with vibrant intensity.
Red crunchy fruit, medium body and plenty of lively energy. It is an upright wine.
Good+. From 2008
Gevrey-Chambertin
From the 2004 vintage the 6 individual village wines have been made into one cuvée,
so the village wine is now a blend of 5 different terroir.
Lots of impact here. A substantial village wine, dense, full-bodied with structural
tannins well balanced with firm acidity. Creamy wood, in keeping with the wine. It’s
dark and muscular with an intense finish. Top notch and stylish village wine with
good ageing potential. Particularly good. From 2009
Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru
A blend of parcels from Petite Chapelle, Cherbaudes, Bel Air and Champonnets.
Dense and coiled with even more generously luscious fruit. It’s spherical and svelte,
much more compact in the middle, firm and meaty. A glossy wine with very good
substance for a straight premier cru and a sumptuous finish. Particularly good++.
From 2010
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux
65 year old vines
Mineral aroma, rather haughty. Austere, direct and more masculine palate medium
weight. Tense, reserved energy with tight tannins, and a stony, compact palate. Fine
grained, good grip and layered in the middle palate with a mineral finish. Not quite
the substance or length of the straight premier cru, which I prefer. Particularly good.
From 2010
Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques
Very perfumed and lifted with a slightly exotic note on the nose. Sweetness on the
first impression, supple with more feminine, glossy tannins and then it battens down
to a taut, very prolonged finish. The middle palate has bite and a certain chalkiness. A
big step up in quality, more intense and complex with a textural sheen. Fine, probably
very fine. From 2012/14
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Beaux Bruns
An explosion of ripe strawberry fruit, warm and heady and rich. Soft first impression,
supple texture, thick tannins and creamy oak. It is a richly sensual wine, on the full
and opulent side for Chambolle, but very much in the glossy Mortet style. Particularly
good++ From 2009
Clos De Vougeot
Not a great deal on the nose, quite quiet, a little bit powdery and floral. Flowing on
the attack, to a slippery, silky palate. It’s a very even wine with a character that
evolves slowly, but grows to a good lovely rounded volume with good intensity depth
and persistence. However it doesn’t have quite the impact and distinction of the
Gevreys. Fine. From 2010
Le Chambertin
Very reserved on the nose with nuances of coffee, smoke and violets - just a hint.
Inscrutable, layered, seriously compact and structural, full-bodied with polished
tannins. This is a firmly architectural wine, fleshed out with inky black fruit with
exotic notes and a powerfully long finish. This needs time. Very fine. From 2014

Stockists
UK:
USA:
Georges Barbier of London; Berry Bross & Rudd; Bibendum; Domaine Direct;
Genesis Wine Ltd.; Goedhuis & Co.; Justerini & Brooks; Michael Morgan Ltd.;
La Réserve; Laytons Wine Merchants; Richards, Walford; Tanners Wines Ltd.;
The Wine Society.
Martine’s Wines Inc.
Domaine Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin
There is no sorting table at Domaine Rousseau where they prefer to select in the
vineyard berry by berry. Eric Rousseau oversees things at the end of the rows. In
2004 the focus was on deselecting berries damaged by hail. Cases of 25-30 kilos are
used. The bunches are totally destemmed and then a small percentage of stems are
added back. Just 1 or 2 cases of stems per 250 cases of fruit. The handling is gentle
to preserve some whole berries.
In 2005 Eric Rousseau was joined by Anne Schusser-Naudin (see the News section).
She admits that at Rousseau brilliant wine is made by turning the theory of
winemaking on its head. For instance one might suppose that the stems would be put
in the bottom of the tank to help draining, but not so.
In terms of fermentation, a cool maceration at about 15 degrees takes place for 4 to
7 days until the grapes start fermenting naturally. The temperature might reach a
peak of 35 degrees. In 2005 the highest it went was 33 degrees. The whole ferment
lasts from between 15 to 18 days, so there is very little post ferment. The press and
free run are put together. Gravity is used here. Eric Rousseau is pursuing a later and
longer malolactic. Whereas Charles Rousseau used to like it earlier to avoid volatile
acidity, these days this is no longer an issue. Bottling takes place after 18 months
Gevrey-Chambertin
Perfumed. Silky soft palate, rounded palate, floral with subtle tannins. Lovely acidity,
fluid and delicate. Very to particularly good. From 2007
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers
Very crunchy, vibrant and lifted. Violets and strawberries. Subtle, but strong and
delicately intense, fine powdery tannins and a long fine finish. Restrained and lucid.
Medium-bodied. Tightens up to an impressively long finish. Fine. From 2010
Mazis-Chambertin
Floral, fragrant with blueberry aromas, refined. Fleshy fruit, warm strawberries and
liquorish, rounded, intense with subtly firm tannins. Charming, but the structure was
a little disappointing. Particularly good to fine. From 2009
Clos De La Roche
No new wood, one year old only.
Forceful, rich and intense, but with the domaine’s elegant style. Lovely fruit on the
attack. A straight core, powerful but very restrained, nothing overt - very descreet.

The strict structure is fleshed out with deep fruit. Coiled energy, fine acidity and a
long, long firm finish. Very fine++. From 2014
Ruchottes-Chambertin
No new wood here only one year old barrels.
Heady, rich and open aroma. Full and forward on the palate. Spherical fruit. It is
meaty and succulent and more than a touch sauvage. Tannins are big, broad and rich.
This has a rugged burly profile and a powerful liquorish and mineral finish. It’s a
dramatic wine needing a lot of time to integrate. Masses of potential though. Very
fine. From 2014
Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques
In contrast this has 80% new oak.
Full, glossy aroma. Exotic entry. Forward, supple and seductively elegant,
underpinned with firm, smooth and subtly strong tannins. The fruit is succulent with
a luscious breadth combined with power and the finish is long, pure and
distinguished. Fine to very fine. From 2010
Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos De Bèze
100% new oak here
This is very classic. Pure deep red cherry fruit with lovely intensity. It is not a big
wine, rather it is medium bodied and lifted with lucid fruit, supple and svelte. It has
harmony, taut acidity and a racy core. The tannins are very finely grained and firm,
forming a strict, but not severe backbone. It has slightly more depth than the Clos
Saint-Jacques and will require more time. Feminine and disciplined and wonderfully
long. Wonderful wine. Outstanding. From 2012
Chambertin
All new oak
Elegantly austere and complete. Again it’s not massive, but medium-full and
restrained. It is beautifully architectural and is composed of fine, strong elements,
pure and soaring lines. It combines great intensity with fabulous lucidity. The finish is
penetrating. Outstanding. From 2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Bibendum Wine Ltd.; Fields & Morris; Heyman, Barwell Jones Ltd; Justerini &
Brooks Ltd.; Lay & Wheeler Ltd.; O.W. Loeb & Co.; Rare Fine Wines & Co. Ltd.;
Howard Ripley; Tanners Wines Ltd.; The Wine Society.
Frederick Wildman & Sons.
Domaine Dujac, Morey-Saint-Denis

The responsibilities at this estate are now shared between Jacques, sons Jeremy and
Alec and daughter-in-law Diana née Snowden The samples were lined up in the bright
new laboratory created for Diana who is responsible for the analysis of the wine.
Jacques Seysses has a reputation in his family for being excessively optimistic.
On the 25 th August, although the general mood in Burgundy was poor after the bad
summer, he maintained that he had never seen a bad June, July, August and
September. He fully anticipated a good final month and he was right. “It really saved
the crop.” He tells me that they gambled a bit by starting late on the 27 th September,
(the ban de Vendange was on the 21 st ).
They had a little hail in August and did a green harvest immediately afterwards.
Jacques used to have a sorting table, but today at the domaine they prefer to select
in the field. Jeremy likes to be out in the midst of the harvest keeping a very close
eye on the picking at ‘ground level’.
The malolactic stated in March and finished very late in August and then it stayed on
lees. The aim is for total So2 at bottling of no more than 40ppm. Jacques Seysses
likes to keep a decent level of C02 in the wine, in order to decrease the need for
sulphur and to preserve and enhance “the fruit and freshness” at bottling. This care
with sulphur, work with lees and other changes, from the vineyard upwards including
pruning, grassing and hoeing, have all increased the colour and added more gras to
the wine in recent years. The wines will be bottled on the 12 th December.
First in the tasting are the négoce wines. Dujac Fils et Père. The négoce venture
started in 2000. The vineyards are run along lutte raisonée lines with no herbicides.
The Seysses’s look for “well located parcels which are already in good shape,”
explains Alec.
Maison Dujac Fils & Père, Morey-Saint-Denis
White Wines
Meursault
Full, fruity aroma. Broad, ripe and richly rounded with lovely fresh acidity to balance.
Reasonably well sustained palate. Attractive. From 2007
Puligny-Montrachet
This is much more distinctive. The aroma is a bit quiet, but the palate has pace and
depth, a firm stony middle, vibrant acidity. It is dense and rich and has good intensity
for village wine. Very good. From 2008

Red Wines
Morey-Saint-Denis
Decent intensity, quite meaty and full. A well balance, medium bodied wine, nicely
rich and a tad exotic; quite dense and thickly textured with grainy tannins. Good.
From 2007/8
Gevrey-Chambertin
Rather lifted and elegant. A touch floral with relatively fine tannins, lightly grained. It
is quite strictly structured, has ripe fruit and reasonable powerful and a good finish.
Good+. From 2008
Chambolle-Musigny
Floral and bright. Very sweet first impression and a seductive and softly tannic
structure, rounded and quite plump in the middle with decent concentration. Really
very attractive. From 2007
Domaine Dujac, Morey-Saint-Denis
White Wines
Morey-Saint-Denis
Slight stone and citrus on the nose. The palate is reserved and savoury with lively
acidity a firm structure. It is surprisingly powerful and dense in the middle palate.
The balance is good as is the finish. Very good+. From
Red Wines
Morey-Saint-Denis
This wine had been put back in cask and will be bottled at the beginning of this year.
Dark aroma. Medium-full with quite chunky tannins and a meatiness. Rich and
slightly exotic. A little four square, but good+. From 2007
Chambolle-Musigny
Bright raspberry fruit aroma. Crunchy and red on the palate. Medium bodied, rather
more tannins than expected, firmly structured, lively character and the follow
through is good. Good to very good. From 2007
Morey-Saint-Denis, Premier Cru
Still in cask in November. It will be bottled before the village.
Smoother palate with ripe fruit and a rounded body. Quite full with moderate grainy
tannins and a reasonable finish. Perfectly well made, but I expected more. Should be
reviewed. Good+. From 2008
Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaumonts

The domaine has acquired a new parcel of Les Beaumonts taking the landholding to
0.75 hectares. The vines are over 50 years old. Alec comments that the location is
good and he expects to get the new parcel into shape in two years.
Full, rich dark cherry fruit with good intensity on the attack. This has an appealing
supple texture, with ripe muscular tannins, a compact and layered middle palate with
luscious and pure fruit, plump rounded body and, interestingly, a slight crunchiness.
Very stylish. Particularly good to fine. From 2009
Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Combottes
Lifted, juicy black cherry fruit with a floral edge. A silky attack builds to a well-toned
palate with intense fruit and hints of coffee. Velvety texture, but a firm core and good
breadth. This wine has plenty of flair and complexity and a long stylish finish. A
particularly good Combottes. Fine. From 2010
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Gruenchers
Rich, smoky and rather exotic. Very full on the nose and full-bodied on the palate for
Chambolle. Plenty of gras and meaty tannins. It’s dense, ripe and forceful with good
energy, if not the most elegant of wines. Particularly good++. From 2010
Charmes-Chambertin
Forceful aroma with fruit, coffee and spice. A surprisingly powerful attack, firmly
structured tannins, concentrated, rich and full bodied. Quite a rigid structure, fleshed
out with dense fruit. It has a full, long and assertive finish. Fine+. From 2012
Echezeaux
Rather perfumed and open on the nose. Silky-soft first impression opening to a
broad, sweeping palate with some good grip. Even and harmonious, it is a very
composed wine, but a little lacking among the others in this line up. Fine. From 2009
Clos Saint-Denis
A much more interesting wine with lots going on. Opulent red fruit, nuances of spice
and coffee and savoury characters. The tannins are tight and finely grained. The
palate is ripe, but restrained. An imposing wine which hums with the impression of
unleashed energy and potential. An excellent long finish. Very fine. From 2012/14
Clos De La Roche
Seductive, almost silky on the aroma. A generously fruity attack leads into a flowing,
velvety palate. Gras is underpinned with a mineral bite and sophisticated firm
structure. It has excellent intensity balance and harmony and a very long slightly
stony finish. Very fine+. From 2012
Bonnes Mares
This is rich and profound, concentrated and full-bodied - carried off with panache. A
very layered and deep palate combines muscular, burly power with elegance. This is
rounded off with a long, long velvety finish. Very fine. From 2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Lay & Wheeler; Morris & Verdin; O.W. Loeb; House of Townend; Howard
Ripley.
Chambers & Chambers; Wilson Daniels.

Domaine Des Lambrays, Morey-Saint-Denis
“In 2004 we come back to a classic vintage,” remarks Thierry Brouin. “Well balanced..
especially in the Morey. I like the black fruit.” Brouhin made a “big” green harvest to
bring the yields in at 35hl/ha for village, and 32hl/ha for premier cru. He began the
harvest 2 days earlier than the Ban de Vendange. Brouin prefers to harvest earlier
and make a thorough selection on the table.
They do not destem at all here. Brouhin aims for a temperature peak of 36 degrees
and a two week period for the fermentation and maceration.
White Wines
Puligny-Montrachet, Folatières
This spends 9 months in wood. 50% of which is new. Bottled at the end of June.
A really lovely nose, mineral and elegant with white peaches which are also present
on the palate. Citrusy attack, firm acidity and intensity and a dash of gunpowder.
Very good balance and a sweet vibrant finish.
Fine. From 2008
Puligny-Montrachet, Clos Des Caillerets
Peachy fruit, beautifully ripe just a touch exotic. Full attack, forward and richly full
bodied with lovely acidity and stony structure. The wood is in well attuned. Fine to
very fine. From 2009.
Red Wines
Morey-Saint-Denis
The red wines also receive 50% new oak
Lifted and vibrant aroma. Medium bodied, quite toasty. Energetic with lively fruit,
moderate tannins and a slightly sappy finish. Attractive, but I expected more. From
2007
Morey-Saint-Denis, Premier Cru
Slightly smoky, more intense, very bright and lively. Much sweeter, richer, fullerbodied
and more concentrated on the palate, rounded tannins, creamy texture and a
long supple finish. Particularly good+. From 2008
Clos Des Lambrays
Vines are more than 30 years old
Spicy, very aromatic and elegant aroma. Attack firm, but ripe with generous notes of
warm strawberries, cherries and black pepper. Really very appealing. Velvety tannins,
then the wine tightens up an upright elegance. Good pace and a very well balanced
and layered palate which exhibits a lot of finesse. Very fine. From 2010

Stockists
UK:
USA:
Berry Bros & Rudd Ltd.; O.W. Loeb; Lay and Wheeler: howard Ripley, Hayes
Hanson and Clarke and Goedhuis.
Weygandt-Metzler Importing Inc. PA
Domaine Ponsot, Morey-Saint-Denis
In the summer of 2004 Laurent Ponsot was on his Harley Davison in foreign parts
(did he say California), with the wind flowing through his new and trendy longer
haircut, so he missed the anxiety of the vigneron at home in Burgundy. When he
tasted the 2004s in May ’05 he thought like they bore some likeness to the 2002s,
and comments, “It seemed like a real terroir vintage.”
If you believed everything Laurent Ponsot told you I am sure one could be seriously
led astray. He has a wicked sense of humour. For a start you would think he just
came into the cellar after vintage and the wine had miraculously made itself while he
was playing with his latest sporty motor. Ask him a technical question and he looks at
you in horror and exclaims, “Wine is like a baby…I cannot explain it technically. We
are a tiny element of the process. There is no word in French for winemaker. We are
necessary part of the chain, but we do not MAKE the wine.” Of course he is
meticulous vigneron…you only have to look about the immaculate winery. As for the
technical side, I drew his attention to the excellent and detailed work he and his
father carried out on clonal selection (he was very helpful in the research for my MW
dissertation on Pinot Noir clones), at which point he smiled ruefully and answered a
few questions before launching off on a tangent with some bizarre anecdotes.
Ponsot hates new oak. “If you take Chardonnay and new oak, you end up with a
beverage like Cocoa Cola,” he tells me with a shudder of disgust.
I was under serious time pressure at this domaine, so sadly we didn’t get though all
the wine.
White
Morey-Saint-Denis, Les Monts Luisants Blanc
A 2.5 hectare monopole
This is a medium to full-bodied wine, firm, savoury, broad and quite sturdy (very
much a food wine). It is well balanced with fresh acidity and has surprisingly good
length. I like this a lot. Very good. From 2007/8
A Ponsot anecdote: Monks, he points out, first planted Aligoté in this vineyard. He
tells me that before phylloxera Aligoté was planted on the slopes with Chardonnay at
the foot. When the vineyards in Burgundy were replanted with vines grafted onto
rootstock, Chardonnay was used because it gave quicker results. Aligoté needed 10

years to show the terroir. Hence, says Ponsot, Aligoté was relegated to the lower and
more fertile areas where it over cropped and acquired its reputation for poor quality.
Red
Bourgogne, Cuvée Du Pinson
One parcel Chambolle Musigny and one generic parcel.
Perfumed, ripe fruit and smooth tannins. It is vibrant with plenty of stuffing.
Attractive Bourgogne. From 2006
Chambolle-Musigny, Cuvée de Cigale
Rather a dark aroma. Fruity attack with good energy. Quite a linear wine with some
bite, but perhaps a bit bony and a little lean on the finish. Not typical Chambolle.
From 2007
Morey-Saint-Denis, Cuvée Des Grives
This cuvée is named after a thrush. It dates back to when Ponsot’s father blended the
‘60 and ‘61 for a non-vintage cuvée at which time there was a good supply of
thrushes to shoot. The name stuck.
Fragrant with attractive ripe fruit, violet high notes, slightly sinewy, medium bodied
and rounded with decent intensity. A lightly masculine profile. Honest village. Very
attractive to good. From 2007
Gevrey-Chambertin, Cuvée De L’Abeille
More weight here, slightly stewy. It is very savoury. There is a bigger structure and
certainly more substance and grip, although I actually prefer the simpler Cuvée des
Grives. Good. From 2007
Morey-Saint-Denis, Cuvée Des Alouettes
This comes from the same ground as Les Monts Luisants Blanc.
Lovely fragrance, lifted and violety. Firmly structured palate with finely grained, but
muscular tannins, ripe richly purple, plumy fruit and good extract. Medium-full with
good energy and focus to a very decent finish. Particularly good. From 2008
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Charmes
Full and expressive on the nose. Firm lively backbone and high-toned purple fruit. It
is very direct and perhaps a bit lean, lacking fat in the middle palate to balance this
structure. However it does have good intensity and length. Have to see how this
develops, so a conservative very good. From 2009
Griotte-Chambertin
Dark and intense aroma. Gamey with intense black fruit. Fuller-bodied with a very
tight, densely packed core and strong, rugged tannins. This has depth and dimension,
although it is a bit wild at the moment. Fine. From 2010
Clos Saint-Denis, Veilles Vignes
Ponsot says these vines are 99 years old and only 10% of the vines are missing.
This is has a lovely long, elegant and direct profile. Decent breadth, but not rounded.
The old vines provide sleek and deep black fruit to embellish the firm framework. It
has a somewhat exotic fragrance, firm grip and excellent drive, combining power
with finesse. This is my favourite of the line up. Fine to very fine. From 2010/12

Clos De La Roche
Average age of the vines between 58 and 60 years old 3.4 hectares.
This is very pure. It has a classic paired down structure. Excellent intensity, grip,
drive and length. The tannins are fine, lean and toned. The texture and profile silky
and streamlined. Fine to very fine. From 2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
John Armit; Ballantynes of Cowbridge; Goedhuis & Co.; Paul Kurs & Co.; Lay &
Wheeler; Morris & Verdin; The Rare & Fine Wine Co.
Vineyard Brands.
Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny
Ghislaine Barthod aims to respect the terroir, but tells me that her approach differs
from that of her parents. When they were making wine 20 years ago, they considered
Chambolle a purely feminine wine, she tells me, not a wine with substance. She does
more pigeage than her father used to. (Everything is totally destemmed). She begins
with pigeage, just twice, then switches to remontage. “I want to keep the finesse,
but with structure…more than my parents…but the most important thing is to have
balance.” She is very careful with new oak to preserve the aromatics. Twenty-five to
thirty percent of new oak is used on the premier cru.
These wines are a delight. They are charming, fragrant and finely balanced.
Bourgogne
Crunchy red cherry aroma. Zesty fruit, lively acidity, light bodied and very refreshing.
Simple and unassuming with plenty of energy. A pretty and attractive Bourogone.
From 2006
Chambolle-Musigny
A blend of 10 parcels.
A somewhat deeper red fruit aroma with correspondingly greater depth and intensity
on the palate. Bright, zesty, pacy Chambolle, light to medium-bodied, crunchy with
light, slightly sappy tannins and balanced acidity. Very charming. Top notch village.
Very good + From 2007/8
Chambolle-Musigny, Aux Combottes
Intense, heady raspberry aroma. Really pure and bright fruit. Lifted and peppery
palate with a lovely silky texture and ripe tannins. Seductive and vivacious.
Particularly good to fine. From 2008/9
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Chatelots
40 year old vines. A deeper top soil here of 30cm.
Rich, darker and a bit more spicy. A very good texture with a sumptuousness to the
black fruit. It’s direct and more streamlined but not quite as charming the Combottes,
although it certainly finishes well. Particularly good. From 2008/9

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Baudes
Thinner 20 cm top soil, on a slight slope
Heady aromatics and delicious fruit – like a warm field of ripe strawberries.
Generous and open with notes of white pepper. Very velvety entry, followed by firm
but delicate tannins. Opulent, broader and more forceful with a full, long and fruit
driven finish. Somewhat more grip and plenty of vigour. Very nicely balanced. Fine.
From 2010
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Beaux Bruns
Deeper, blacker perfume. Dense, fleshy concentrated fruit. Fullish with thicker
tannins. Generally a broader wine. Good intensity, well balanced, just perhaps a tad
four square and brooding for Chambolle. Particularly good. From 2009
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Charmes
2 parcels. The lower section is rockier, while the top has deeper soil.
Succulent, full aromatics. Essence of raspberry with wonderful intensity. Sweet
tannins as well. Very even, composed wine, a little reserved. Supple textured, amply
rounded and subtly structured with a very long and elegant finish. Fine+. 2010
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuées
Slightly darker fruit, purple and floral on the nose with a touch of liquorish on the
palate. More pronounced tannic structure, more bite, but elegantly streamlined.
Vigorous energy carries through to a long and rather mineral finish. Stylish and
contained. Fine. From 2011
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Véroilles
Poor and rocky terroir. 36 ares. In 1987 Ghislaine’s father lobbied the INAO to have it
reclassified to premier cru.
Scented and intense blue fruit, vibrant, very focused, even more streamlined and
nervous with a coiled energy. Tight, tense, dense and deep. Very fine tannins, firm
acidity and a persistent tight finish. A wine poised on knife edge. Fine to very fine.
From 2012
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras
Deliciously fragrant and sensual, but so refined. Svelte and firmly, but subtly
structured. Marvellous balance, vibrant acidity and deeply red fruit coupled with a
stony character and firm minerality. This combines focus and raciness with richness
and breadth. Pure, complex and layered with a very pronounced finish. Very fine.
From 2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Richards, Walford & Co – pinciapl agent.; A & B Vintners Ltd.; Berry Bros &
Rudd Ltd.; Bibendum; Ben Ellis Wines; Goedhuis & Co.; House of Townend;
Justerini & Brooks;
Planet Wine Ltd.; Raeburn Fine Wines; La Réserve; Secford Wines Ltd.; Stone,
Vine & Sun; Tanners Wines, Raeburn fine Wines; Lay and Wheeler, Ltd.; The
Wine Treasury.
Rosenthal Wine Merchant, NY.

Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Chambolle-Musigny
Mugnier comments that this was a vintage requiring a great deal of work and one in
which growers were very anxious about disease. Very careful yield control was
paramount, in addition to attention to spraying at the right time and creation of an
open canopy.
The vines in Nuits-Saint-Georges La Maréchale tend to be very vigorous. Maison
Joseph Faiveley attempted to control yields with short pruning, concentrating vigour
on a small number of buds. Now Mugnier has repossessed the property, he has
reversed the approach to one of long pruning together with removing every second
bud from the cane at bud break. Now the buds are well spaced out. “It’s more work,
but it’s worth it.”
He comments on the 2004s. “I like the fruit. It is very intense and fresh. The wines
are full and complete and remind me of 2002, but with more structure and tannins.
When the grapes are ripe and healthy the wine will always age well. We broke the
ripeness levels in one parcel of Maréchale. It was higher than in 2003. September
was perfect. The closer we get to the time of harvest the more important the climate.
A great vintage can be ruined, but the reverse is also true when it is sunny, bright and
dry and there are enough water reserves in the soil.”
Mugnier reports a sugar increase of 1.5 degree a week (0.2 a day), and attributes this
to the quality of the light. It was sunny, but quite cool. He compares it with 2003
when the hot sun and excessive temperatures caused the vine to shut down, to block
photosynthesis and dehydrate the fruit.
Comparable vintages? Mugnier considers there were some similarities with
1993…cool weather and a good September. In 2001 he clearly recalls growers being
anxious and then maturation came late with a cool and dry, but not sunny
September. The harvest ripened, not as quickly as in 2004, but he considers the fruit
comparable as both ripened in cool weather.
Malic acidity was high, the reverse of 2003 when it was low but stable, so the total
acidity dropped a lot during the malolactic fermentation. It is higher than the 2002,
2003 and 2000 but not 2001.
Mugnier comments that the “ideal wine for me to drink is a wine to drink at any age.”
This was not always the case. Mugnier’s palate was educated on old wines pre-1950.
No wine was made by the family from 1950-78 as the family vines were leased to
Maison Joseph Faiveley.
He considers that all his wine can be drunk very young or mature, although of course
they may go through a closed period. Mugnier’s wine is very approachable in youth.
They are quite the opposite of the recently fashionably big extracted wines
demanding years to come round. A wine need not be big to have the capacity to age
beautifully and Mugnier’s wine clearly illustrates this. However he does concede that
it would be a pity not to leave the grand cru until they have matured to full potential.

A graceful set of wine. Freddy Mugnier has a wonderfully light touch. The result is
delicate and silky textured wine with vibrant intensity and pace and wonderful
balance.
Chambolle-Musigny
A charming wine with bright summer fruits and hints of white blossom. The lively
palate is delightfully direct and pure and rather racy with lucid red fruit, a silky
texture and a delicate structure which flows into a long, subtle finish. Top notch
village. From 2007
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuées
Slightly richer fragrance, more intense generous fruit on the palate and a fluid,
sensual texture that ripples through the palate complemented by elegant tannins and
lively acidity. Cool, pure, streamlined and beautifully balanced with a long silky
persistence, which completes a very harmonious profile. Fine to very fine. From 2008
Bonnes-Mares
Elegant, lofty black fruit aroma. Richer texture, satin, rather than silk with a firm but
refined structure, excellent substance and fine grained tannins. Wonderfully
balanced with generous depth, intensity and fresh acidity. It is subtly rich, seductive,
but with cool reserve. A vigorous, but very contained palate, direct and focused to a
very persistent finish. Very fine to outstanding. From 2010/12.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses
Nuances of gunflint, coffee and red plums. Altogether more alluring with a light
sheen on the first impression. The texture is delicately creamy with an elegant, ample
and svelte body and satiny tannins. Sensual and intense with more extrovert energy.
This is both luxurious, but light and refined and carries to a very long and subtle
finish. Outstanding. From 2010/12
Le Musigny
A superbly intense, lacy, floral fragrance. Rapier-like intensity coupled with an
almost ethereal delicacy, this wine shimmers across the palate. The texture is
sublimely lacy; the fruit lucidly pure; the balance exquisitely poised. The fragrant
fruit is matched by a tight racy energy in the core of this wine, which carries to a
superbly keen mineral finish. Great finesse. Mugnier totally captures the ethereal
quality of this terroir. Outstanding. From 2012.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos des Fources
This is the most southerly part of the appellation in Prémeux-Prissey. Clay soil, pretty
flat but slightly inclined in a Southerly direction. Mugnier was concerned about the
quality of this Clos, despite its established reputation. Maison Faiverley had
maintained it very carefully and responsibly - for example using no herbicides.
However there were some vines missing in the old block and Mugnier is replanting
them individually. The youngest vines were planted in 1986, while at the other
extreme one block was planted pre-WW2.
Mugnier made 10 cuvées and selected only the best. This, the declassified wine,
comes from younger vines or plots where the yields are higher. However he says he
had no preconceived ideas of what should be declassified. All was based on tasting.
Purple perfume and burly richness. It’s broad and deeply plumy with a sturdy
masculine profile and dense tannins. It is somewhat meaty, but also austere and
finishes assertively. Very good. From 2007/8.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, La Maréchale
Mugnier described this place as “very exciting..it’s big and surrounded by walls. It
has a special atmosphere…so peaceful. When you stand there you are isolated. The
walls are very important…..quiet and isolated.”
A well defined palate, very black and intense and vibrant. It is firmly structured with
deep fruit and tight grained tannins, muscular but contained by the Mugnier touch.
Notably direct and pacy, it has a taut mineral core and a prolonged dark and well
sustained finish. Fine. From 2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Georges Barbier of London; Haynes, Hanson & Clark; H & H Bancroft; Fields
Morris & Verdin; Howard Ripley; Tremayne & Webb; The Winery.
Martin Scott Wines Ltd.; Wines Unlimited; Selection Becky Wasserman, Le
Serbet, France.
Domaine Comte Georges De Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny
“August was problematic,” says François Millet. “It preserved the acidity and even
more interestingly the minerality. The minerality is a reminiscence of August and the
fruit - sweetness and ripeness - of September.”
At this domaine they did a green harvest in July mainly on the younger vines which
dropped them down to 25-30hl/ha at that stage. The yield was just 20-25hl/ha at
harvest because of the hail.
Malolactic was normal here – from the spring to the end of June.
“I have never seen this type of vintage, since I took over in 1985. There is nothing
like it, because of the minerality,” comments Millet.
These are very sophisticated wines. The fruit is very elegant and they have excellent
definition and poise.
Chambolle-Musigny
Aromatic, lovely, rich and intense. The palate is lifted, fluid and even with silky
tannins, lively energy and acidity. Elegant raspberry fruit with a touch of stone and a
lovely long finish. Very refined. Top notch village. From 2008
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses
Very pure and vibrant aromatics, wild raspberries. Sweet first impression, it sings
with delicious fruit. It is very elegant and flowing, but also direct and focused and
wonderfully intense. The tannins are very fine and the finish impressively long and
silky. Great harmony and finesse. Very fine to outstanding. From 2012
Bonnes Mares
“Even the place is darker, quite sombre, while the others vineyards are lighter and
much more ethereal,” says Millet. This comes from the South Eastern Corner of

Bonnes Mares. “The red soil and the thin top soil is responsible for the elegance,” he
comments, “but maybe there are other reasons we do not know of… we are nothing
verses the terroir.”
Much deeper aromatics, morello cherry and white pepper… penetrating. This is
broader, rounder and more architectural. The palate is rich, deep, brooding and
reserved, but also very precise. Compact and finely layered, it carries to a tight and
very long finish. Strong sense coiled energy and hidden potential. Although it is a
more masculine wine, it is above all refined and elegant. Very distinguished.
Outstanding. From 2014
Musigny
The vines here are 25 to 50/60 years old. The younger vines go into the village wine,
so that the “the village is not overshadowed in this grand cru environment,” says
Millet.
This has supremely elegant aromatics. The first impression is deliciously supple and
silky. It builds to a finely focused and vigorously mineral palate with intensely pure
fruit. Great definition, refined tannins, streamlined and direct with great harmony
and balance and a superbly long finish. Great poise. Outstanding. From 2014
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Contact the agents Mentzendorff & Co. Ltd.; John Armit; Ballantynes of
Cowbridge; Direct Wine; Diirect Wine Shipments; Fine & Rare Wines Ltd.;
Eldridge Pope; Farr Vintners; Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants; La Réserve;
Howard Ripley;; Lay & Wheeler; Laytons Wine Merchants.
Chambers & Chambers; Barrique Wine Co.; Dreyfus Ashby & Co.; Ideal Wine &
Spirits.
Domaine Robert Arnoux, Vosne-Romanée
These wines will be racked in December and put into tank. The bottling time is
dependent on the moon, but will take place sometime in January or February. Pascal
Lachaux uses four coopers. The main forest is Allier and the village wine goes into
600 litre barrels.” Any comment on 2004? “I think it is a fruity vintage.”
Bourgogne
From two parcels in Nuits-Saint-Georges. This was bottled in September
Dark fruit, full, spicy with a good firm tannins. Robust. Very pleasant. From 2006/7.
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Produced from 5 parcels
Very black with good density to the nose. Sweet dark fruit on the palate with
somewhat robust tannins. Good breadth across the palate and decent depth of fruit.
Quite a full and sturdy wine. Very attractive. From 2008.
Vosne-Romanée
2 parcels

Aromatic and perfumed on the nose. Lovely succulent fruit, generous palate and firm
acidity. Medium body with a good plump middle. Nicely rounded with a firm finish.
Solidly good. From 2008
Vosne-Romanée, Les Hautes Maizières
Softer first impression and tauter tannins with slight minerality, an edge of attractive
sappiness and good energy. It’s quite a sturdy Vosne-Romanée, but is a step up in
quality with a longer finish. Good to very good. From 2008
Nuits-Saint-Georges
This came from a new oak barrel. The final blend will have 30% new wood.
This is attractively purple on the aroma, intense and lively. Very juicy fruit shows
though the new wood, together with bright acidity. The structure is quite solid and
the finish punchy and sufficiently long. Good to very good. From 2009
Chambolle-Musigny
Lachaux says the vines for this Chambolle-Musigny always get millerandage. Violets,
lively and really rather pretty on the nose. Again this is a sample from new wood
which is rather overwhelming on a village wine. However the fruit seems lively and
red with a firm slightly racy core and good length. The finish is rather fine and the
wine quite elegant. Good+.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Procès
South facing mid-slope. A small premier cru. The final blend will have 50% new oak.
A lot more power here with attractive density and grip. Full, lively, muscular with a
broad body and good depth in the mid palate. It is a well-balanced wine with a
decently full and well sustained finish. Particularly good. From 2010/11.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos Les Corvées Pagets
This clos is from the other end of the appellation. The vines are 45 years old.
Intense aroma, black and spicy. This seems softer than Les Procès on the attack, then
it battans down to a big dark, smoky structured wine with a powerful finish. Very well
balanced, deep and potentially ‘better’ wine than Les Procès, but it is a touch rustic,
making me prefer the latter. Particularly good+. From 2010/12
Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes
The vines are 55-65 years old and the new wood percentage will be 60%
An even palate, really firm tannins, sweet morello cherry fruit, quite spicy with a
zesty energy. The structure here is very good and the finish long. Particularly good,
probably fine. From 2010
Vosne-Romanée, Aux Reignots
The malolactics were long here. Lachaux feels that the long malos will help with the
structure; that quick malos result in a simpler wine.
A real sweetness to this wine, very decent structure and depth, lovely fruit, dense,
lively, slightly blackcurrant with juicy damson and plums. It has quite a bold,
masculine structure and good grip. I like this a lot. Fine++. From 2010. It has so
much fruit, it may need less time than the previous wines.
Clos De Vougeot
Perfumed and purple. A very silky attack and follows though with generous sweet
fruit, a supple texture, a full and ample body and a generally seductive personality.
Not quite as long as it could be. Particularly good, maybe fine. 2009/10

Echezeaux
Rather exotic and lifted. Quite light at first and delicate, then follows with a good
middle palate, nicely structured, finely grained tannins, intense red fruits, lively
acidity and a lovely long finish. Masculine and sophisticated with good grip, but
delicately done. Fine+. From 2012
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots
Rather sweet and perfumed on the nose; the aroma from warm fields of ripe
strawberries, heady and very seductive. Very well structured, lovely ripe tannins,
deliciously pure fruit and lively character. It has depth and dimension. It’s a well
balanced and harmonious wine, but also firmly architectural and the finish is
powerful. Perhaps my favourite wine here together with Aux Reignots. Fine to very
fine. From 2012.
Romanée-Saint-Vivant
Very lifted and intensely perfumed. Rich attack with a thick creamy texture,
concentrated pure fruit, essence of raspberries and glossy tannins. It is both alluring
and complex. The finish has excellent persistence. Fine to very fine. From 2010/12
Stockists
UK:
USA:
John Armit Wines; Gardner’s Folly
Contact the agents: Russell Herman, World Wide Wine Source; Neal Rosenthal
Wine Merchant.
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée
Delightful wine. Elegance combined with wonderful purity of fruit and clarity of
structure.
Sylvain Cathiard perfers to use pigeage in the morning and remontage in the
afternoon. The élevage is 18 months. Cathiard likes two winters on the lees for the
extra gras it gives to the wine.
Cathiard junior is off to New Zealand to work a few months with Fromm in
Marlborough.
Bourgogne
Lovely pure fruit here; the essence of Pinot Noir. Warm, ripe summer fruits, silky
soft, seductive with fine tannins and lively acidity. A very pretty wine with a
surprisingly good finish for a generic wine. Top notch Bourgogne. From 2006
Chambolle-Musigny, Le Clos De L’Orme
Morello cherry and white flowers, full and expressive. Sweet silky texture, supple
tannins, decent depth, plumply and softly rounded and nicely balanced with good
persistence. This is very attractive and very Chambolle. Very to particularly good.
From 2007/8.

Vosne-Romanée
Very bright and upright, redcurrant and lively on the nose. The palate is energetic,
racy with fine acidity. It is a linear and rather light wine, but has a subtle
underpinning structure and a sweet, fruit driven finish. Very good. From 2007/8
Vosne-Romanée, En Orveaux
Richer on the nose with more depth. It is lower toned than the straight village, but
still bright. Medium body with fine, subtle and silky tannins. It delightfully clear and
pure with a taut structure. A firm, but very refined wine. Particularly good to fine.
From 2008/9
Vosne-Romanée, Les Reignots
Darker aroma and slightly spicy. This is an elegantly structured wine. It has firm fine
tannins and a stricter core, but the driving force is pure, lively fruit. It is a delightful
wine with an almost floral edge. It’s tighter than the En Orveaux, less delicate with a
more compact and complex palate. A pure and refined Les Reignots. Fine, maybe
very fine. From 2010.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Murgers
Dark, mineral and black pepper on the nose. The attack is full and rich. The body is
medium full – not as full as some Murgers, and has surprisingly fine tannins and a
refined muscularity. Slight sappy, lively and mineral backbone. It finishes well. Fine.
From 2010/12.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots
Rather an alluring nose of wild flowers and red fruit;, very perfumed. An upright,
dignified wine with a taut, slightly mineral core, tight finely grained tannins and firm
acidity. This has very good structure and a long finish. Lovely fruit too, dark red fruits
and wild flowers again. Fine to very fine. From 2012
Vosne-Romanée, Les Malconsorts
Slightly more depth on the nose - a richer base note. A more masculine profile with
generosity on the front of the palate, breadth and weight in the middle. It has a rich
and refined muscularity. Very long. Fine to very fine, but I prefer Les Suchots. From
2012
Romanée-Saint-Vivant
Silky and elegant on the nose which follows though on the palate which flows like a
river of silk. Wonderful texture. It is a very harmonious wine, very refined. The
tannins are powdery fine, the fruit exceedingly pure. It’s feminine, complex and
poised. Very fine. 12 years.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
A & B Vintners Ltd.; Berry Bros & Rudd; Haynes, FWW Wines (UK) Ltd.;
Hanson & Clark; Lay & Wheeler; O.W. Loeb; Robert Rolls Fines Wines; Stone,
Vine & Sun; DIVA, France.
Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France. Esquin Imports Inc.; Great
Lakes Wine Co.; J & J Importers; Langdon Shieverick Inc.

Domaine Jacky Confuron-Cotétidot, Vosne-Romanée
This family can trace their vinous roots in Vosne back to Louis X1V. Yves Confuron,
son of Jacky, studied agronomy. And it was as an agronomist that he began work in
1996 at Domaine de Courcel in Pommard.
At Domaine Confuron-Cotétidot Yves continues working in the manner of his father.
They share the same philosophy he says. They have never used herbicides. They don’t
use a table de tries, preferring to make all the selection in the vines. They continue to
use a very old vertical press. The vats are made of wood. Yves encourages a long
fermentation with temperature at a maximum of 28-32 degree. “I am sure you have
better tannins at the end. It is the same as when you buy bread. If the yeast acts very
quickly you lose a lot of aroma, the same as with white wine. Timing is important. If
the fermentation is long you increase complexity and have sweeter tannins.”
25% of new wood is used. Yves is a fan of Bulgarian wood, which he find subtler than
French. The 2004 malolactic was just beginning when I visited in November.
Confuron considers that a late malolactic increases the complexity and you lose less
colour. However, it’s more practical if it happens by September, not least because the
wine is easier to assess when the trade arrives in November to taste.
He bottles in May. Two winters in barrel are necessary, he says, for the tannin and
the structure particularly as he prefers not to filter or fine.
No chaptalization in 2004. For that matter Confuron points out that he added no
acidity to 2003. He was very unusual in harvesting in later September in 2003. “When
you lose all the acidity, you need better aroma and tannins for the structure,” is his
explanation.
Of this vintage he comments, “2004 has a big structure and is classic.”
Bourgogne Pinot Noir
The vines are on the far side of the route 74 and are on average 40 years old.
Sweet fruit, grainy tannins, medium body, fresh acidity and fair density. Quite meaty.
Pleasant. From 2006/7
Vosne-Romanée
This comes from vines abutting Clos de Vougeots, if I understood correctly.
Rich purple aromas, lifted and fairly intense. Sweet first impression, velvety, thick
and medium bodied, good energy, ripe frit and quite chunky tannins. A firmly
structured wine with a decent finish for village wine. Very attractive. From 2008
Nuits-Saint-George
South facing old vines of 82 years.
Smoky, black aroma with good intensity. Rich, peaty black fruit, very firm acidity,
lively, firm and sturdy with upright tannins. Assertive spicy finish. This has more
going on. Good. From 2008
Gevrey-Chambertin
The family bought the vines in 1986, but they are very old, 80 years or more.

Very tight on the nose, high toned and haughty, black. Palate attack is sweeter than
expected and the profile rather elegant. Medium bodied with fine grained tannins and
moderate substance. Soundly good. From 2008.
Chambolle-Musigny
The most complete of the village wines. Seductively aromatic and a lovely silky
texture with ripe red fruits, slight spice and decent density. It is fresh and vibrant
with a very pleasant balance and harmony and a good finish. Very good. From 2008
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Vignes-Rondes
Vibrant and spicy nose. Rich, quite solid with dense fruit and smoothly chunky
tannins. Medium-full, quite layered with decent grip and substance. This is more
polished. Particularly good. From 2009.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots
Elegant aroma with black fruit and notes of violet. Battans down in the middle palate
with firm tannins, compact, grippy, perhaps a little hard. Good extract, deep and
linear and the finish is fresh, lively and well sustained. Particularly good+. From 2010
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, 2003
Bottled in July 2005. Very generous aroma. Ripe, opulent fruit and a wide palate with
soft tannins, well contained. Score 17
Echézeaux
Meaty and brooding. Big structure, firm black fruit, compact with chunky tannins. It
is burly and quite austere with a decent finish. Nudging into fine. From 2012
Clos De Vougeot
Vibrant, direct wine with big framework and meaty tannins, fleshed out with ripe
fruit. It has decent extract, energy and persistence. Decent structural, but a little
short on finesse. Particularly good+. From 2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Lea and Sandeman
Village Wine in New York
Domaine René Engel, Vosne-Romanée
The domaine headquarters are housed in a foursquare mansion on the Place de
Marie. It is guarded by a rather ferocious rottweiller. The wine is very perfumed with
gentle tannins and soft, plump fruit.
Vosne-Romanée
3 parcels, one behind the house
Sweet, perfumed and floral. Forward, ripe and rounded, medium bodied with soft
tannins, plump and very feminine. Good varietal typicité. Attractive. From 2006/7

Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées
Sweet dark fruit on the nose. Ripe first impression. Softly structured, ample palate.
Warm strawberry fruit and plumy ripeness, full, but not heavy. Lovely pinot
expression. From 2008
Echezeaux
Blacker fruit – a really very fruit driven character. Sweetly rounded with some grip in
the middle. It’s a very flowing wine with a silky structure and a quite persistent fluid
finish…sensual, supple with powdery slippery tannins. Particularly good to fine. From
2009
Clos De Vougeot
Expressive and very perfumed with ripe summer fruits. It is smoothly seductive on
both nose and palate. Richer, fuller and broader on the palate with firmer, although
velvety rich and rounded, tannins. This has more substance, concentration and depth
with firmer balancing acidity and a good tightness to the finish. Fine. From 2010
Grands Echezeaux
Full and perfumed on the nose. It overflows with ripe fruit. Palate is sumptuous with
velvety tannins and a firmer backbone. Very textural wine with a supple long finish.
Fine. From 2012/14
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Fine & Rare Wines Ltd.; Gauntleys of Nottingham; H & H Bancroft; Hayman,
Barwell Jones Ltd.; Morris & Verdin; Howard Ripley; Tanners Wines Ltd.
Gramame Gardner
Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France.
Domaine Jean Grivot, Vosne-Romanée
Jean Grivot believes in compromise. As you will see from his approach to ploughing in
this issue’s feature, he takes a firm middle line in everything vinous.
This year was no different from any other as far as the malolactic was concerned.
They are always late at this domaine. There is little difference here before and after
malolactic in terms of total acidity as Grivot finds that the malic acidity is never that
high. This stability of acidity and low pH he attributes to the careful management of
the soil – in particular, of course, a low level of potassium. Wines are kept on the lees
for as long as possible.
Grivot considers it a mistake to buy a wine and leave it for ten years. You should
follow the maturity. In common with a growing number of vigneron, he considers
that a great wine should be good young, as well as old. Grivot finds that 8-15 years
for the premier cru is a good balance for his wine. At this stage there is a combination
of freshness of fruit and the beginning of complexity. Before this and he says the
harmony cannot appear, because it is too young, and later can be a mistake,
particularly if the cellar conditions are not good enough.

Bourgogne
This has juicy fruit and lifted aromatics. It is bright, lively and has good intensity with
quite a lot of grip. Bold and quite robust, this comes from a very old vineyard over
towards Nuits-Saint-George, but is rather Vosne in style. Top notch Bourgogne. From
2007
Vosne-Romanée
Very red lively fruit on the nose, followed by a generous but elegant palate, which
has a taut texture and tight core. Top notch for straight village wine. From 2007
Vosne-Romanée, Les Bossières
This vineyard is just below the Grivot’s house. The vines are 60-65 years old.
This is really generous on the palate with good concentration and richness. It is
vibrant and intense with firm grip, body and density and a powerful finish. This is a
more masculine style of wine. Firm and bold. Very good+. From 2008
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Lavières
Really rather seductive, open and perfumed. It is a feminine Nuits-Saint-George,
whereas the previous Vosne wine was more masculine in profile. Ripe, deep, red fruit,
rich and amply-bodied with structural, but generous tannins. A full luscious finish to
match. Very good. From 2008
Chambolle-Musigny, La Combe D’Orveau
Lifted, vibrant raspberry fruit on the nose is followed by a slight spicy attack. The
palate is light, bright and energetic, with silky tannins, white pepper and high toned
spices. It is direct with a racy core and a certain minerality. This is a charming wine.
Particularly good. From 2007/8
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Pruliers
Deeper, full and gamey aroma. Big and full-bodied, black fruit, broad across the
palate with good ripeness. This has a solid middle and firm acidity. It is certainly
robust with a gravelly core and a real grunt to the finish. Particularly good. From
2010/12
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Roncières
This has a high tonned aroma with an exotic twist to the black fruit. It has a punchy
attack, generous fruit and grippy tannins. There is a suggestion of wild flowers with
spice and damson fruit. It’s an interesting wine, intense and layered with a long
gravelly finish. Fine. From 2012/14
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Boudots
Expressive and seductive wine. It has volume. A rich attack followed by ample ripe
fruit. It is medium to full bodied with a thick velvet texture, burly, but not coarse,
broad and boldly structured with excellent depth and power. Fine+. From 2012/14
Vosne-Romanée, Les Brûlées
Silky red fruit aroma, quite open at the moment. Refined tannin structure, slightly
high toned fruit, and medium body. It has a silky texture and complex layering.
Delicious. Appealing for its elegance and structure. Fine+. From 2012
Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaumonts

Perfumed with notes of anise. A coating, rounded, plump body with fine breadth and
plenty of layering and latent potential. It is richly elegant, well balanced and has a
tight core. It maybe rich, but it is refined and quite reserved. Fine to very fine. From
2012
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots
This has a deeply sweet black aroma and is more masculine, yet the palate is ample
and rounded, deep, plumy and well structured and very plump. It is a warm-hearted
wine, equally generous on the finish. Excellent persistence. Very fine. From 2012/14
Clos De Vougeot
Rather a subtle aroma, but there is nothing subtle about the palate. Much more
tannic expression here, butch, wider across the palate, lively with brute power, depth
and intensity, but somehow not quite as interesting as the previous three wines. Fine.
From 2014
Grivot says, “this is the big guy that needs education…always a huge wine…”
Echezeaux
Here one returns to a more delicate aroma, rather quiet at the moment. However
there is good plumy fruit upfront on the palate. It is sensual, rich and violet-like with
an almost chalky minerality through to the finish. It has a really lovely, long sweet
finish. It is quite a delicate wine in a way, but with no lack of depth and intensity. A
good Echezeaux. Fine+. From 2014
Richebourg
Grivot says, “one of the most magical terroir in Burgundy for me.”
A very intense, stylish and multifaceted wine. It is finely layered with a chalky
minerality and fine but firmly structural tannins. It is ripe, but not overtly so, in fact
there is a good touch of austerity here. It has a racy, tight core, really penetrating
depth and a finish of great persistence. It is a remarkably sophisticated wine
combining great reserve with equal energy. Outstanding. From 2014
Stockists
UK: A & B Vintners Ltd.; Ballantynes of Cowbridge; Berry Bros & Rudd; Bibendum;
Decorum Vintners; Goedhuis & Co. Ltd.; Lay & Wheeler; Planet Wine Ltd.;
Raeburn Fine Wines; Howard Ripley; Seckford Wines; Stone, Vine & Sun; The
Wine Society.
USA: Diageo Château & Estate Wines.
Domaine Anne Gros, Vosne-Romanée
The Gros family are a complicated clan. There was just one estate at the time of
Anne’s grandfather. The current Gros are cousins. Anne took control of her family’s
portion in 1988. Her father was ill and she had no siblings, so there was no question
about it she tells me shrugging. She seems a very pragmatic person. “I wanted to do
something with my hands.” She did a year of viticultural training in Beaune and it

suited her. She began working with her father immediately. He was selling most of
his wine in bulk and the remainder to tourists. Anne describes the domaine as being
very run down. She set about a two year plan to bottle her own wine, but continued
selling half in bulk to earn the cash necessary to inject into the business to upgrade
it. From 1990 all of the production was in bottle. She is evidently a determined
woman who learnt fast.
In the vineyard her appraoch is “a respect for the terroir”. She aims to be as
biological as possible; to use as few chemicals and certainly no systemic treatment,
but she wants the freedom to use certain preparations where necessary. As noted
before, this woman seems very pragmatic and practical.
These are straight, honest wines. They have a direct personality, like Anne herself.
Anne likes to drink young wine….so would start opening her wines at 3 to 5 years.
Bourgogne Blanc, Hautes Côtes De Nuits
Bottled in August
Vibrant, savory and a little nutty. Quite a broad palate with ripe pear-like fruit
balanced by fresh acidity. Very direct and rather bold. Very attractive. Now onwards
Bourgogne
20 barrels from 3 parcels in Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges. 20-25 year old
vines. To be bottled in December
Fair intensity for Bourgogne. Slightly peppery with good fruit, firmish tannins and
density in the middle. Attractive. From 2006
Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes De Nuits
From 2007.
This plot was planted in 1997 and so the first production was in 2000
Very bright fruit, morello cherry, good and pure. Aromatic on the nose and lively on
the palate. Fresh acidity and medium bodied. Very Pleasant. From 2006.
“Easy drinking” says Anne
Chambolle-Musigny, La Combe D’Orveau
A lively wine. The fruit is dark, the nose expressive and the body quite ample. The
palate is both supple and zesty with an attractive sappiness and soft tannins. Modest
intensity. Good+. From 2007
Vosne-Romanée
Anne bought these vines in 1988. She was just 22 at the time. The exposition is
northerly and they are at the top of the slope. She says the grapes are always small
and intense.
Very pure black cherry fruit. A straight palate, a little spicy, strict with a streamlined
structure. Good grip, vivacity and intensity. This is good, slightly austere, village
wine. Very good. From 2007
Clos De Vougeot
Black powdery and floral. Supple attack, thick texture, hints of liquorish, medium to
full bodied with good grip and an assertive finish. Straight tannins. Particularly good
to fine. From 2008.

Richebourg
Very black and pure, tight and mineral. Mineral attack too with very tight, fine
grained tannins. Good depth, a taut core and firm focus. Direct profile with pure
black fruit and a powerful finish. Very well balanced. Fine +. From 2010
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Adnams; Laytons Wine Merchants; Lay & Wheeler Ltd; Howard Ripley.
Atherton Wine Import; North Berkeley Imports.
Domaine Du Vicomte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée
Louis-Michel Liger-Belair considers that the winemaker contributes just 5% to the
final wine. It’s a very good 5% here.
The 2004 was a challenge for this rising star. As Liger-Belair points out there is a fine
line in terms of yield with Pinot Noir and 2004 was an abundant year. He considers
the break off point to be 40-42 hl/ha. Colombière, below the château, has a high
percentage of clay, so the yields were higher than normal, but the older vines in the
domaine yielded an average of 30-38 hl/ha. Achieving the right yields meant two
green harvests for the first time, one at the end of July which took three days. This
was also to space out and aerate the bunches. The second, at the beginning of
September, sorted out the rot. The bunches affected with oidium were taken away
from the vineyard so as not to affect the remaining crop. It was apparent that the
yield was too high for some vines to complete the maturation of all the bunches, so
half were removed, which also reduced the work on the triage table.
Liger-Belair does not begrudge the time spent doing this. “It’s a very useful time to
assess the style and character of the grapes and how to manage them.” He decided to
spend more time by the triage table to deselect the rosé grapes. In the winery his
approach to extraction changed last year. He stopped using pigeage and changed to
remontage (pumping over) because the tannins of the 2003s were so extractable. He
was concerned that punching down would extract heavy tannins. For the 2004s he
used pigeage just four times during the whole fermentation, favouring remontage as
the principal method of extraction. “I know it’s rather popular to use the term at the
moment,” he says, “but I want infusion rather than extraction.”
“When I started in 2000, I made the choice to make the wines I love, not wines that
just sell well. I don’t want to make really big, heavy extracted wine, but wine that
you want to drink.”
He has succeeded. This is an elegant and refined set of wine.
As for when to drink them, Liger-Belair says, “It’s not a crime in my mind to drink
wine early.”
Vosne-Romanée, La Colombière

Below the house is a 0.6 hectare parcel of 60-80 year old vines. The soil is only clay
with no limestone.
Light and perfumed, rather delicate and fruity. Rounded, raspberrish with vibrant
acidity and fine, smooth tannins. Very good, very charming village wine. From 2007
Vosne-Romanée, Clos Du Chateau
35 years old vines on 0.83 hectares, which lie at the beginning of the slope where the
soil is rich in limestone. It is a clos with 4 walls. Liger-Belair points out that the walls
are an important part of the microclimate in a small parcel for of course the stone will
absorb heat during the day and radiate it at night. This clos was originally the garden
of the château, but 36 years ago his father planted it with vines. However if one goes
back further still to 1850, it was a vineyard. (It is necessary for a clos to have three
walls to qualify as such.)
This wine is very bright and floral with juicy acidity and wonderfully pure redcurrant
fruit with high notes of white pepper. A very feminine wine, intense and fragrant with
taut chalky tannins, a reserved linear structure, good pace and lovely length. Top
notch village. From 2008
Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes
This is a really tiny 50 year old parcel of 0.12 hectares, well placed just below La
Tâche (top north/west position). It is made in a small wood vat for it only produces
two barrels. Liger-Belair points out that it has a shorter fermentation than the other
wine, just three to four days, and that in such a small volume it is of course more
difficult to preserve the temperature. In previous vintages he has pressed the wine
on top of Les Reignots, but he wasn’t happy with the results, so in 2004 he made a
separate press.
Red fruit and roses, very perfumed. Richer with a more tannic structure, a bigger
framework, sweet fruit, bold but elegant with excellent extract, lovely acidity, really
very fresh and juicy, a firm mineral core and a long, silky finish. A very well
structured Les Chaumes. Fine. From 2008.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Reignots
1.61 hectares, so half of Les Reignots. The family have owned this since the C18 th. It
is an unusual parcel as it runs from the top to the bottom of the appellation, giving a
cross section of the terroir, which Liger-Belair considers important for quality. There
is an average 20cm of earth before bedrock he tells me and he believes the roots may
go down as far as 10 metres, particularly as in 2003 the vines here showed little sign
of the drought. Two thirds of the vines are over 60 years old and the ground is very
stony and hard to work, but Liger-Belair finds it a rewarding parcel, as it vividly
repays all the work put into it. At the moment he is propagating a sélection massale
from the old vines, to use instead of clones in the domaine. The vines selected are
affected by millerandage and therefore yield low.
Very dense and rich and incredibly intense. Minerally attack, tight and focused, Taut
core, powerful, very precise with real drive. Profound fruit and excellent extract.
Tense tannic structure and masses of uncoiled energy. Very long. Very fine+. I like
this a great deal. From 2010.
La Romanée
0.8452 hectares. It pays to be precise at this level. This has been a monopole since
1826. On paper the vines are 50 years old, but Liger-Belair thinks that in fact the

vineyard was not replanted after the war, when regulations changed regarding
density and many vineyards were replanted.
An expressively seductive aroma, very intense, sumptuous, almost velvety. It is in
harmony with the sensual palate, which is both opulently fruity, but elegantly
restrained and structured, and has excellent extract. It is intricately layered and
complex with very fine finish. A beautifully poised wine. Very fine to outstanding.
From 2014
Stockists
UK:
USA:
UK & USA:
Justerini & Brooks; Richards Walford.
Vinalia, CA; Wines Unlimited.
Contact Selections Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France.
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Vosne-Romanée
The first set of wines are négoce wines. Jean-Nicolas Méo started the négoce in 1999
and is continually expanding the range. He buys the fruit in July by the surface area
at which point he takes control of the vineyard management. So for instance in 2004
he organised a green harvest and later, in September, he chose the time to harvest
and he made a selection. He aims to use the same vineyards each year to build a
profile of the vines and experience in managing them.
Méo divides his wine into strict or soft, as a dominant characteristic. Ripeness versus
acidity.
He rates the vintage as a “Good approachable classical type of Burgundy, not the best
of the century.”
Négoce Wine
Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes De Nuits, Blanc
12 year old vines here, which were harvested very ripe.
Nutty, savoury, ripe and citrus with fresh balancing acidity and quite a broad and
rounded palate. Very pleasant. From 2006
Bourgogne
The fruit for this cuvée is drawn from across the Côtes de Nuits. Some of it is domaine
fruit.
Dark fruits, medium bodied, lively with tannins, which are a touch astringent.
Perfectly well made, but not that exciting. Pleasant. From 2006
Marsannay
Bright, lively wine with crunchy red fruits. Light to medium bodied and much more
interesting than the previous wines. Smooth tannins, vibrant, slight spice and pure
fruit. Plenty of energy. I like this. It’s honest wine and a good Marsannay. From 2007

Fixin
Balanced wine with fresh acidity, somewhat grainy tannins, quite light bodied.
Correct but undistinguished. Attractive. From 2007
Morey-Saint-Denis
Smoky dark cherry aroma with touch of spice. Thicker tannins, medium to full-bodied,
agreeably soft and rounded in the middle palate, quite dense and with rather loose
tannins. Slightly bucolic, but plenty of character and a punchy finish. Good. From
2008
Chambolle-Musigny
Lively red fruit on the nose – from a new barrel which did rather mask this sample.
Vibrant acidity and a direct firm profile. Ripe raspberry fruit with an attractive fruity
finish. Perhaps a bit one dimensional. Attractive. From 2007
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Argillas
The domaine has full control of managing this vineyard. It belongs to a vintner who
has retired, but doesn’t want to sell. It is a ‘cool’ site.
Dark fruit, tarry and smoky aroma. Very fresh attack. Dense core, pure and direct,
with a strict tannic structure, grainy and quite mineral. Not especially prolonged.
Good typicité. Very good. From 2008/9
Nuits-Saint-Georges , Les Perrières
This is an old vineyard. Les Perrières is a stony site up the slope.
Black slightly sooty, brighter and more lifted than Aux Argillas. More elegant, finer
grained tannins. Agreeably rounded, medium bodied with an attractive sweetness to
the fruit; rather seductive for a Nuits-Saint-George. Really quite stylish with a touch
of minerality. Particularly good. From 2009
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras
Very nicely perfumed. Soft and seductive up front, but with some grip on the middle
palate. Rather lush tannins, decent concentration, rounded with moderate acidity and
a long sweet finish. Quite fleshly and perhaps not the most poised of wines, but very
attractive never-the-less. Particularly good. From 2008
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuesselottes
This has quite a strict linear profile and finely grained firm tannins. It is quite nervy
with a taut middle and moderate to fresh acidity. Very good+. From 2008
Domaine Wine
Vosne-Romanée
Perfumed, redcurrant fruit and rather elegant. Moderate substance with lively acidity,
very well balanced. Slightly sappy, but clear and attractive with fine grained tannins.
Pure and correct and typical, but seems a touch superficial. Very good. From 2008
Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes
This year Méo experimented with some stalk retention with Les Chaumes. His
objective is to add structure to this cuvée which can be a bit lacking. He’s happy with
the results in terms of structure, but is worried by the aroma, which he considers has
been altered too much.

I rather liked the aroma. It’s redolent of very ripe strawberries with a touch of white
pepper –maybe slightly funky. Méo prefers the wine to have more straightforward
fresh fruit on the nose. The palate is soft and elegant with slightly sappy tannins. The
fruit is pure and quite luscious and reasonably intense. Particularly good. From 2009
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Murgers
30 years old vines
Full dense, rich and a bit sultry on the nose. The palate is quite burly, slightly austere
and notably meaty. It is firmly full-bodied with chunky tannins and a dense middle.
There is an edge of black pepper. It is well balanced with a good earthy finish. A wine
with plenty of personality. Fine. From 2010.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Boudots
The vines here are 55 years old
This is more lifted and aromatic. This wine has abundant black fruit and a round girth.
Broad as well as deep, it has plenty of gras and is sumptuous and soft with thick rich,
ripe tannins. Quite approachable really. Very agreeable, but the Murgers has the
better structure. From 2009
Echezeaux
55 year old vines in Les Rouges-du-Bar
A little quiet at the moment on the nose. Fresh first impression, plenty of ripe
summer fruits and attractive purity. There is firm acidity and almost a minerality. It is
an even wine medium body wine, not a block buster. It finishes reasonably well, but
is perhaps rather lacking in grip and excitement for grand cru. Fine at most. From
2010
Clos De Vougeot
Very fragrant. Delicious fruit upfront on the attack. Excellent lucidity, firm, taut and
with finely grained tannins. Well structured, direct, elegant, medium bodied with a
good long finish. Soundly fine. From 2010
Corton, Clos Rognets
An upright and powerful attack. This is burly and dense with compact middle, good
concentration and lots of backbone. Quite four-square. Robust tannins and finish.
Fine at most. From 2010/12
Vosne-Romanée, Brûlées
This has the sophistication and intensity the previous wine lacks. It is a glossy wine,
with an expressive silky aroma and a polished palate. It is subtle yet strong with
excellent depth and structure, firm underpinning acidity and rounded tannins.
Complex and imposing wine. Very fine+. From 2012
Vosne-Romanée, Cros Parentoux
Rather unusual on the nose, leathery and spicy with hints of ground coriander.
Somewhat exotic on the palate. Firm tannic structure, much more rigid and haughty
but combined with power, intensity and a velvet texture. Firm acidity carries onto the
long and concentrated finish. Lots happening here, although disconnected at this
time. Plenty of potential. Not only is it exceedingly good, but it’s a rather wacky wine
for Burgundy and for this eccentricity I prefer it to the Richebourg, which is much
more classic. Very fine to outstanding. From 2012/14

Richebourg
A rich and very classic profile. Silky attack, very fluid and sensual wine with polished
tannins, a supple texture, marvelous intensity and superb balance. It’s long and fluid
and seamless and has great style and finesses. It’s much more even and harmonious
wine that the Cros Parentoux. Very fine to outstanding. From 2014
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Berry Bros & Rudd; Bibendum; Fields Wine Merchants; Goedhuis & Co. Ltd.;
Justerini & Brooks; Richards Walford.
Boston Wine Co.; Garnet Wines; Kermit Lynch.
Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg, Vosne-Romanée
Like 2002 Marie-Andrée Mugneret considers 2004 to be a good year for varietal
expression. In 2004 she says, “we find the pinot noir picture again.”
The philosophy and style of this domaine is eloquently expressed though the label.
The old label also depicted St Vincent, but it was static and confined. “I wanted to
release St Vincent and to have something lighter, and to let him fly,” explains Marie-
Andrée Mugneret. Now there is movement and colour in the label and the wines are
graceful and lively.
This domaine is unusual in that it is run by a mother and daughter team – Jacqueline
Mugneret with her daughters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée.
“We are not looking for great concentration, but we work with the vintage. We work
with the same process as my grandfather. It’s the vintage that gives the character to
the wine. We don’t want to have a big influence. Our main influence is on the triage
table. From then it should be as natural as possible.”
The vines for the first wines are managed on a sharecropping basis.
Bourgogne
In 1935 the vines for the Bourgogne were declassified from Vosne-Romanée status,
but Georges Mugneret’s father always maintained that he was happy to have some
good Bourgogne as an entry level to the portfolio.
This has a lovely aroma, very fruity, very ripe. It is exuberant, generous and juicy and
well balanced with lively acidity. Simple, but really attractive. From 2006
Vosne-Romanée
5 parcels are used for this wine. They are fermented together.
Nicely perfumed. Sumptuous red summer fruits with an attractive aniseed and spice
bite. It’s a touch exotic. Very well balanced and plumply rounded. Deliciously supple
tannins. Attractive, forward and engaging. Soundly very good. From 2007
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Feusselottes

Much higher toned, lifted, red and bright. Sweet raspberry fruit, really lucid, clear and
lively. Medium bodied and very fresh and vigorous. Quite flirty. Good intensity and
nicely rounded edges. I like this. It has lots of character. Particularly good to fine.
From 2008.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Feusselottes, 2003
Ripe red plums on the aroma with a firmly structured palate with thick textured
tannins. It is touch stemmy, but also full and opulently fruity with a robust finish. A
bit gawky and difficult to see exactly how it will come together at the moment. At the
moment, very good. It needs quite a lot of time. From 2010
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots
Deep and dark with plums and damson fruit. Good bite up front and an almost stony
breadth to the centre palate. Compact with excellent balance of fruit and grip. Lively
wine, long, intense and sturdily stylish. Fine. From 2009/10
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots, 2003
Deep, ripe plum aroma, slightly smoky. Opulent fruit, deliciously rounded, velvety
tannins, voluptuously sweet, soft but with a tarry bite and a good finish. Particularly
good, probably fine. From 2008
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Vignes-Rondes
This is below the Chaignots and it is on flat versus the Chaignots on the slope
Darker, sturdier and slightly spicier than Les Chaignots. Black plum fruit, dense and
rich, meatier and burlier. The tannins seem rougher. It’s quite a grunty wine. I find
Les Chaignots more stylish.
Ruchottes-Chambertin
Rich, focused and velvety. It has a firm core and a dense texture; steely with depth
and power. It is an architectural wine with excellent substance and balance of fruit
and tannin. Lots of grip. Very fine. From 2012
Ruchottes-Chambertin, 2003
Very ripe and slightly porty on the nose. The palate however carries the vintage much
better. The attack is sweet and rich, is sweeps into a broad, full, but elegant, palate.
The tannins are silky smooth It’s delicious, but perhaps a tad short for grand cru.
17.5. From 2008
Echezeaux
2 parcels from Les Rouges-du-Bar and Les Quartiers-de-Nuits.
This is upright and elegant with drive, decent grip and intensity, but doesn’t demand
the attention of latter wine (the 2004) or the next. Fine. From 2010
Clos De Vougeot
Very full and plumy on the nose. Richly fruit and spicy with a rounded full body, not
big, but profound with good grip and density. While it’s expressive it’s also very
elegant and has fine powdery tannins and an excellent, long slippery finish. A lovely
Clos de Vougoet. Very fine. From 2012
Stockists

UK:
USA:
H & H Bancroft; Berkmann Wine Cellars; Haynes, Hanson & Clark; Lay &
Wheeler Ltd.; Lea & Sandeman; Howard Ripley.
Esquin Imports Inc.; Ideal Wine & Spirits Co. Inc.; North Berkeley Imports;
Michael Skurnik Wines; The Stacole Co. Inc.; Vintner Select; The Wine
Company.
Domaine De La Romanée-Conti, Vosne-Romanée
I was shown round the cellar by Bernard the cellar master who describes the 2004 as
“a year that will develop slowly…a millésime of passion.” He is a highly entertaining
guide to this most illustrious cellar.
Le Montrachet
I have not sampled the blend, but the elements seem very fine.
Sample one: Stony intensity, immensely tight core, firm acidity, coiled energy,
austerely masculine with a very long, mineral finish. Very reserved.
Sample two: Seriously rich, savory, powerful broad and deep with a sumptuous
creamy texture. Not surprisingly this was revealed to be a barrel sample with
bâtonnage.
Vosne-Romanée
Very lucid fruit. Nicely intense on the nose and very even on the palate. Sweet fruit
on the attack, slight floral with decent concentration in the middle palate and good
breadth. Rounded tannins, medium bodied and ample. Subtle, supple and very
pleasing. Particularly good. From 2008
Echezeaux
Very expressive and expansive. Darker fruit the nose, showing well. Rich and velvety
attack to a broad and sweeping palate. An elegant wine, soft and seductive with
smooth finely grained tannins, good depth and a long and intense finish. Fine+. From
2012
Grands Echezeaux
Slightly more intensity on the aroma and depth on the palate. Higher toned, very
attractive black fruit with a suggestion of blueberries and a touch of spice. More grip
here, firm and lively with fresh acidity. This has a tighter, mineral core and is less
expansive and more discreet than the Echezeaux with a long fine finish. Fine++.
From 2012
Romanée-Saint-Vivant
Deliciously fragrant and petally. The first impression is delightfully silky and very
feminine. There is excellent intensity to this wine and behind its graceful and very
fluid profile it has firm grip, and edge. The tannins are fine grained. It is very trim and
balanced with a long, long elegant finish. I particularly like this wine. While it may
not be as grand as the next two wines or as quite as fine and sophisticated as La
Romanée-Conti, it has great finesse. Outstanding. From 2012
Richebourg

A baroque wine. It has a sumptuous aroma and thickly velvet texture. It is
expressive, concentrated and full-bodied with power and richness. The tannins are
smoothly muscular. It ripples across the palate. It is dense, broad and has a polished
masculinity. There is nothing ethereal about this wine. It is gloriously rich and full
throttled on the finish. Outstanding. From 2014
La Tâche
This is a seriously architectural wine. It has a powerful framework of tannins, fleshed
out with intense fruit, but still angular with youth versus the seductiveness of
Richebourg. The profile is dense, seriously compact and strictly direct. It hums with
leashed vigour. A splendid powerhouse of a wine. From 2016
La Romanée-Conti
Subtle and silkily perfumed aroma. The palate is very streamlined, focused and
immensely long. It’s beautifully poised and pure. The power here is quiet and
sophisticated. It is very finely and deeply layered, wonderfully defined and deliciously
svelte. A superb wine. From 2014.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Contact the UK agents: Corney & Barrow. John Armit Wines; Berry Bros &
Rudd; Eldridge Pope; Fine & Rare Wines Ltd.; Justerini & Brooks; Lay &
Wheeler; Planet Wine Ltd.; Reid Wines.
Wilson Daniels Ltd.
Domaine De L’Arlot, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Prémeaux
The domaine has fourteen hectares of vines, 2 of white and 12 of red including 11
hectares of Nuits-Saint-George premier cru.
The philosophy in the vineyard is to work as cleanly as possible, so no herbicides or
pesticides. The work is basically biodynamic, but the domaine is not certified. “I want
to keep the possibility of using some treatments. The first goal is to produce the best
quality,” says Olivier Leriche (Technical Director).
In the cellar, the approach is “to be soft with the cluster - low interventionist.”
Normally at de L’Arlot they use whole cluster (in 2002, 2003 and 2005) but in 2004,
because of the problem of botrytis on the stems, they destemmed 60% of the fruit.
The fermentation took 3 weeks with less punching down than normal. Leriche says
that the most important aspect in handling this vintage was the careful sorting of the
grapes to eliminate green, dry and rotten berries. There were two levels of sorting,
one in the vineyard and a table on the tractor. From 2005 at d’Arlot they are using ten
kilo boxes.
“My objective is to make well balanced wine within the style of vintage,” comments
Leriche

He considers the declassified wines should be ready to start drinking in 3 to 4 years,
but they should also have good ageing potential.
It is interesting to taste at Domaine de L’Arlot for the Clos de L‘Arlot and Clos des
Fôrets are so very different. A wonderful illustration of terroir.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Blanc
Young, 12 year old, vines, from Clos de L’Arlot. 0.9 hectares
Fresh, slightly mineral, nicely balanced with quite savoury fruit and bright acidity.
Straightforward and very pleasant. From 2006
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos De L’Arlot, Blanc
Clos de L’Arlot vines, this time 20-35 years old. Less than 1 hectare
Broad and quite muscular, biscuity, lees characters, well structured with moderate
acidity and good intensity. Very good. From 2007.
Côte De Nuits Villages, Clos Du Chapeau
Perfumed, bright and lively on the palate with soft tannins. Lightish bodied and
supple. Attractive. From 2006.
Nuits-Saint-George, Premier Cru
Declassified vines from Clos De L’Arlot. 2004 is the first vintage
A very pretty wine; bright, lively aroma with red cherry fruit. Quite light and racy with
a supple texture. Just adequately intense. Sound premier cru. From 2007
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Premier Cru
Younger vines of the Clos des Forêts. The Vines are 15-19 years old. The soil is
deeper than in the Clos De L’Arlot. There are 50 or 60 cm before hitting stones,
whereas Clos de L’Arlot is almost directly on stone.
Velvet texture, nuances of morello cherry and chocolate. Good substance and
breadth. Grainy tannins, quite rich, meaty, rounded and robust. Particularly good.
From 2007/8
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos De L’Arlot
60 year old vines.
Dark aromatics but refined and lifted. Creamy, rich, but also sophisticated and lively
with a medium body and rounded edges. Tannins are svelte. It’s harmonious,
balanced and rather poised. An elegant Nuits-Saint-George with a long sweet finish.
Particularly good++. From 2008
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos Des Forêts Saint-Georges
The vines here are 20-50 years old. Each cuvée is vinified separately. One month
before bottling, around February, the final blend is made.
Much bigger on the aroma, meatier and more robust on the palate. This is a more
masculine, but not austere wine. The polar opposite of Clos de l’Arlot. Full bodied and
deeply rich with smoothly chunky tannins, sweet oak, firm grip and acidity, followed
by a powerful grainy finish. Fine. This has the edge on the Clos L‘Arlot. From 2010.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos Des Forêts Saint-Georges, 1993
Intense tertiary bouquet, yet still fruity. Very vibrant on the palate, complex
mushroom and forest floor characters, but also fresh fruits. The tannins are fine
grained and firm, but integrated and there is a delicious lively minerality to the

palate. Just beginning to come into it’s own as a mature wine. On the cusp of fruit
and tertiary characters. Score 18
Vosne-Romanée, Suchots
Creamy textured with ripe strawberries and summer fruits. Opulent and forward,
rounded but not big, it is well contained. Gently oaky and well balanced. It is a very
textural wine with a long succulent finish. Particularly good++. From 2008/9
Romanée-Saint-Vivant
The vines are 33-35 years old. The first vintage was 1991.
Sophisticated aroma, intense and slightly mineral. Excellent structure and balance. A
tense and quite compact wine, tight with fine grained tannins. Feminine style, firm,
but elegant. Lovely, long sweetness to the finish. Well mannered wine, not a
blockbuster. Fine
Stockists
UK: Anthony Byrne Fine Wines; Corney & Barrow; Goedhuis & Co.; House of
Townend; Lay & Wheeler; Howard Ripley; Gerard Seel Ltd.; T & W Wines Ltd;
The Wine Society.
USA: Jeroboam Wines; Burgundy Wine Co.; Chambers & Chambers; Classic Wine
Imports Inc.; Ex-cellars Wine Agencies Inc.; Old Vine Imports; Co.; Selection
Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France.
.
Domaine Robert Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Fine fruity aroma. Bright acidity, and medium bodied with a medium grip and a fair
finish. Very pleasant. From 2006
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots
Very lifted and strawberry aromas, rather fragrant. Lovely succulent fruit, supple
texture, lively acidity and a well sustained finish with a slight chalkiness and a bit of
grip. Very to particularly good. From 2008
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Bousselots
Deeper and plumier on the nose, good depth and richness. More grip on the palate,
dense with a fine nervy tannic structure, lovely acidity and a mineral bite. Medium
bodied and quite elegant. Particularly good. From 2009.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Roncières
This is richer, fuller and broader, but without the lift and spirited character of the
Bousselots. It has a meaty tannic structure but didn’t seem quite as assertive on the
finish. Very sound, but fell short of expectations. Good. From 2010
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Perrières

Rather a feminine profile. The aroma is bright and perfumed. The palate shows a fine
structure, quite reserved. It is medium bodied with tightly grained tannins, firm
acidity and is rather refined and well balanced. Particularly good to fine. From 2009
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Pruliers
Floral and expressive on the aroma, but the palate by contrast is solid, dense and the
tannins are thicker grained and coarser. The wine is broad, compact in the middle and
powerful, much less accessible than the Perrières. Rougher and wilder with a sturdy
finish. There is plenty of potential. Fine. From 2012
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Cailles
Red plums, warm summer fruits, sweet, rather expressive and floral. Silky first
impression, with supple tannins, rather subtle and svelte in structure. Medium bodied
with a very pleasing harmony and balance. It’s long and stylish. Charming wine and
polished. Fine also, and I prefer it to Les Pruliers. From 2009
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges
Deeper, more purple aroma and damson fruits on the palate. This is masculine, well
structured and profound. The tannins are full and densely grained. It’s smoothly
chunky, broad and quite sturdy but with good energy. It’s a powerful and complex
wine, intense, very long and has a definite gravitas. Very fine. From 2014
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Vaucrains
This is more direct and streamlined on the palate. The tannic structure is taut and
dense. This Vaucrains is much edgier than the Les Saint-Georges. It’s full and
muscular, stylish and very long, but not as compact or profound. Fine. From 2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Fine & Rare Wines Ltd.; H & H Bancroft; Justerini & Brooks; The Wine
Treasury; Seckford Wines.
Kermit Lynch. Ideal wine and IB Imports
Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron, Nuits-Saint-Georges Prémeaux
Sophie Meunier is a gregarious person. When she is not making wine she is involved
in projects such as an exchange programme with South Africa for young people in the
wine trade. She exudes energy and good will and is obviously passionate about this
project to bring opportunities to bright, but disadvantaged youngsters.
When Sophie was their age, in her late teens, she wanted to be a journalist. She
started working at the domaine in 1982 when her father was unwell and she there
she remained to help with the harvest. When her father passed away in 1983 she
stayed put at the domaine to help her mother. Sophie was just 22 when she made the
decision to take full responsibility. It was not an easy decision for she was young and
had so many other things she wanted to do, but there was no other option as her
mother would have sold the domaine.

Bourgogne
A very sound Bourgogne, quite linear with lively dark fruit, firm acidity, sweet tannins
and a fruity finish. Very pleasant. From 2006
Côte De Nuits Villages, Les Vignottes
Perfumed and deeply juicy with fresh acidity, delicious fruit (black but also quite
floral), quite loose tannins, medium bodied, energetic and racy with a good finish.
Very attractive. From 2007
Côte De Nuits Villages, La Montagne
2005 will be the last vintage as the vines are suffering from virus and will be grubbed
up.
Black fruit and a slightly smoky aroma. Lively attack. More intensity here. Taut
tannins, decent grip, but not heavy or coarse. This is a bright elegant and energetic
wine, mineral and spicy, medium bodied and racy onto a sweet finish. More going on
than in Les Vignottes. Good+. From 2007
Chambolle-Musigny
Silky and floral on the aroma. This has attractive nervosity, bright and pretty fruit and
a mineral and almost chalky core. Skittish and bright, rather than soft and rounded.
Very well balanced with a well sustained finish for village wine. Charming.
Particularly good. From 2008
Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru
More densely fruity and rich on the aroma. Step up in intensity and complexity.
Thicker textured and profound on the palate with luscious and pure fruit, supple
tannins, well rounded, sleek and seductive, focusing in on long chalky finish. (These
two wines from Chambolle have a great deal of charm). Particularly good ++. From
2009
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Fleurières
Smoky, perfumed and aromatic. Silky first impression, tightens up to tight grainy
tannins, a bit rustic around the edges, but generally direct and focused. The finish is
modest. Good+. From 2008
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaboeufs
Quite big and smoky and burly. Really rich on the aroma. Full-bodied, lots of grip,
thickly textured - black fruits including a touch of cassis and soot. It’s chunky, grunty
and compact with good substance and a long, full finish. Powerful wine, but well
restrained and contained. Particularly good to Fine. From 2010
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Boudots
Full, juicy and aromatic on the nose. Rich, black chocolate, full-bodied, velvety, soft
and seductive on the palate, but with strongly structured tannins underpinning the
framework of this wine. More immediately likable, more sophisticated and complex
than Les Chaboeufs. Fine + From 2010/12
Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaumonts
Very fragrant, rather exotic and lifted, cherries, wild flowers, jasmine. First
impression is sensual and silkily fluid. This is followed with a pouch of plump fruit.
There is a bit of a dip, before it comes back for a decent finish. Firm grip. Particularly
good. From 2009.

Clos De Vougeot
Lifted and perfumed. This is surprisingly vivacious with plenty of grip. Firmly
structured - fresh acidity well balanced by intense fruit and fine grained tannins. A
finely compact palate. There is almost a minerality and a racy energy here with good
bite, balanced by seductive fruit. A Clos de Vougeot with interest. Fine to very fine.
From 2010
Romanée-Saint-Vivant
Silky and luscious on the aroma. Voluptuous upfront and ample on the follow
through. This is elegant, but seductive. The fruit is dark red cherry and well
concentrated with velvety plump tannins. A very appealing and well structured wine,
with lots of layers. This is a rich and glossy Romanée-Saint-Vivant. Very fine. From
2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Ballantynes of Cowbridge; Haynes, Hanson & Clark; O.W. Loeb & Co..
Robert Kacher.
Domaine Henri Gouges, Nuits-Saint-Georges
The philosophy of Christian and Pierre Gouges is to respect the soil, the variety and
the year. The fermentation , which starts naturally, took about 3 days in 2004.
Christian Gouges considers that the 2004s might be good early and then have a
difficult 2-4 years. By 5 to 6 years typically they should come around again. Like
Etienne Grivot he likes wine between 8-15 years, although after this he believes it
gets even better. “You need time for the terroir to come through and you need more
than fifteen years.” To illustrate his point, after the 2004s we tried a bottle of 1971.
It was delicious with a seductive tertiary nose and on the palate it was complex,
subtle and delicate with nuances of bitter chocolate. Still wonderfully fresh with
notes coffee on the finish.
Bourgogne
50% of the wine comes from a parcel at the top of the slope which is blended for its
mineral aroma. Four small parcels from down the slope on the south side for used for
their depth and tannins.
Fruity and bullish with robust tannins. Big Bourgogne with good concentration and
structure for a generic wine. Top notch. From 2007
Nuits-Saint-Georges
This is more focused and mineral on the palate, but also bullish and fruity. Mediumfull
with decent depth, sturdy tannins, power and more grip. Very good. From 2008
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots
This is on the north side, near Vosne

This is more velvet and generously fruity, full, ample and rounded. Ripe and broad,
with smooth tannins, decent concentration and depth. Quite sturdy, but not heavy.
Rather luscious. Particularly good+ from 2009
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chaines Cartaux
This by contrast is on the far south side, above Les Saint-Georges on quite a steep
slope. Chaines are stones and cartaux is a small barrel. As Christian Gouges points
out this vineyard has a thin top soil, the name may be derived from the little stones
he thinks.
This is subtler, softer and silkier with a firm elegant structure. There is bite to this
wine with a slight cassis character. The tannins are not too chunky and there is good
energy. In fact the wine is less sturdy than Les Chaignots, more streamlined.
Particularly good+. From 2009
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos Des Porrets Saint-Georges
3.5 hectares of Clos des Porrets, which is why the Gouges cousins can make the
experiments with cover crops referred to in this issue’s feature on ploughing. It is a
monopole of the domaine.
This is a solid, muscular wine. Rich upfront it broadens out to an expansive middle,
full and broad, dense with big, smooth tannins, black and sleek, but there’s grip here,
velvet grip and a long deep finish. Fine. From 2010
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Pruliers
This is higher toned on the palate. There is a firm minerality and stony character and
a tight core. Firm grip, focus and a certain austerity are balanced by full and generous
black plum fruit. Tighter line, less accessible, but maybe more stylish than Clos Des
Porrets and a very good finish. Fine. From 2012
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vaucrains
The attack is opulently fruity and the palate very firmly structured and full with a
glossy solidity. It is muscular with well-toned tannins and is rather imposing with a
distinct masculine character. Compact and complex with plenty of layers. Fine to very
fine.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges
This is a big architectural wine, opulently rich with burly tannins and deeply generous
black fruit, but it also has a thread of minerality and steel to the backbone, making
the profile predominantly direct and focused and this is carried with marvelous
energy to a very persistent finish. A serious wine. Very fine+. From 2012/14
Stockists
UK: A & B Vintners Ltd.; Berry Bros & Rudd; Hayman Barwell Jones Ltd.; H & H
Bancroft; House of Hallgarten; La Lomas Ltd; O.W. Loeb & Co. Ltd.; Howard
Ripley; Seckford Wines; Charles Taylor Wines Ltd. & Montrachet; The Winery.
USA: Vineyard Brands Inc.
UK & USA: Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France.

Domaine Germain, Chateau De Chorey-Lès-Beaune
White Wines
Pernand-Vergelesses
A slightly savory aroma. Rounded with plenty of fruit, pear and a touch of hazelnut.
Medium bodied and fresh with a fair and fruity finish. A pleasing wine - study and
characterful. I like this. Very attractive to good. From 2006
Meursault, Les Pellans
Germain bought this is 1999 and changed the pruning from Guyot to Cordon Royat to
keep the yields in check and to avoid doing a green harvest, even in 2004.
Rich, aromatic and rather sumptuous with a thick texture. It is medium-full and
nicely balanced with a fresh and mineral core. Correct. Good. From 2007
Pernand-Vergelesses, Vieilles Vignes
1 hectare of 40 year old vines including 10% Chardonnay muscaté. Gemain made
only one barrel. The rest goes into the Pernand-Vergelesses. It is made in a 500 litre
cask of new wood.
Fleshier and more muscular palate. Broad and fullish body with the savory character
of the straight cuvée, but fatter. I actually prefer the liveliness of that wine. Good.
Beaune, Sous Les Grèves
Savory aroma, rich and biscuity. Good bite of minerality on the palate, full, nicely
compact, rich earthiness and vigour to this wine and a pleasing level of power and
intensity onto the finish. Particularly good. From 2008
Red Wines
Chorey-Lès-Beaune
Zesty, fruity aroma and plenty of bright crunchy red fruit and a hint of bell-pepper on
the palate. Fresh, unpretentious and immediate wine with a lively personality and
excellent typicité. Exactly as it should be. Very attractive. From 2006
Chorey-Lès-Beaune, Vieilles Vignes
1 hectare. Germain keeps keep 2 barrels for this separate bottling.
Perfumed with violet notes. Very approachable with an attractively ample middle
and shares lively red fruit with the former wine. Medium bodied, rounded with
peppery tannin. Good. From 2006/7
Beaune Premier Cru, Domaine Des Saux
This name is taken from the family who sold the château to the Germain family. 50%
Bouchrotte, 25% Cent Vignes and 25% Teurons
A light and energetic wine. Peppery and bright, nicely rounded and balanced with
slight spice. Modest substance. A pretty and unassuming wine. Good. From 2007
Beaune, Teurons
Germain explains that hail came from the South at the end of August, so it had a
major effect on this vineyard. This was followed by “beautiful weather and a cold
wind…..so important ….the wind stopped any rot problem.”

Thick and fruity aroma with more substance and structure on the palate. Broad quite
loose structured and ample-bodied. Fairly chunky tannins. Concentrated and richly
succulent plumy fruit. Very good.
Beaune, Vignes Franches
This suffered from hail. Germain was left with just 13hl/ha. Only 6 barrels from 1
hectare of vines.
This has lifted aroma with floral notes on the palate and damson fruit. It is thickly
supple, firmly dense with more backbone, but not solid – in fact rather elegant with
good energy and a persistent richly fruity finish. Stylish and lots of personality.
Particularly good. From 2008
Beaune, Les Cras
Germain was left with just 10 hl/ha
Spicy and high-toned aroma. This also has richly concentrated fruit, but more
compact and layered with a more prominent tannic structure. Ripe but more austere
and direct than the former wines and more powerful. Fine. From 2010.
Beaune, Cuvée De Tante Berthe
Velvety wine with opulent concentration. Masses of sweet creamy oak here coating
the sumptuous fruit. Another step up in intensity from Les Cras. Densely layered, rich,
bold, lusciously spherical offset by firm acidity and a powerful long finish. Very
powerful and fine, but I prefer the balance and slight austerity of Les Cras. From
2010
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Georges Barbier of London; Direct Wines; Domaine Direct; Growers Direct Ltd.
Atlanta Wholesale Wines; Diamond Wine Merchants; Horizon Wines; Simon
“N” Cellars; Frederick Wildman.
Domaine Du Comte Armand, Clos Des Epeneaux, Pommard
Leroux likes to reduce the potential yield at flowering to 5 bunches on the old vines
and 6 on the young. However in 2004 he was forced to do a green harvest which
brought the average yield down to 30, rather than the more usual 35 hl/ha. In fact
the Fremiets was just 12hl/ha. He also comments that there were millions of bugs in
2004, which he sieved out on his custom made, vibrating sorting table. They fell
through the gaps.
The wines were racked the week I visited. They will remain, topped up, on the fine
lees. Benjamin Leroux found the 2004 lees quite reductive, so he has isolated the fine
lees and if necessary he will remove these and just top up to protect the wine.
Auxey-Duresses, Largillas
One parcel of vines, which are 35 years old. They have a south/south west exposure
and must be picked late. Leroux picked on the 8 th October, two weeks later than the

other vines in the domaine. One pigeage a day. Leroux says he doesn’t want to push
the maceration which lasts just two weeks unlike the other wines which have four.
Dark fruit with a supple attack building to a softly tannic structure. Bright and quite
nervy with a slight bite to the finish. Very attractive. From 2006/7
Auxery Duresses, Premier Cru
28 ares and the vines are 20 to 80 years old vines. This is a blend of one third Les
Duresses and two thirds Les Bretérins. The latter has a due south exposure and is on
a steep slope of white marl. There is 1.1 hectares of both. Leroux blends before
fermentation. He tried treating them separately and found that Les Duresses really
didn’t work.
Again the fruit here is lively and fresh on the palate, but with gutsy tannin, a firmer
structure and a bit more grip. Nicely balanced with good nervosity and a vibrant
reasonably well sustained finish. Very good++. From 2007/8
Volnay
New Volnay vines for Domaine du Comte Armand
The domaine took control of a new parcel of village Volnay vines in Les Grand
Champs, well situated under the premier cru Les Mitans. This brings the total village
landholding in Volnay to 1 hectare.
Now there is a hectare of Volnay the wine is easier to manage in the cellar. The new
vines are in Les Grand Champs, just under the premier cru Les Mitans. Leroux is
changing the management to biodynamics. They will be blended with the existing 8
year old vines from Les Famines which lies between Les Grand Champs and the Route
74.
Deceptively velvety on the nose and sweet on the attack. Battans down immediately
to a tannic structure, medium-full bodied, punchy masculine style, fairly concentrated
and robust with an assertive moderate finish. Very good++. From 2008
Leroux says, “I used to fight with the tough part of this Volnay, but I now accept the
tannins and they come round. The 1999 and the 2002 are tasting well now.”
Volnay, Fremiets
0.4 hectares from 2 vineyards split 50/50. One is 25 years old and touching the other
which is 55 years old. It will be bottled in February.
Very perfumed and open. Supple attack, rounded, medium-full, pleasantly rich and
broad, with ample weightiness and good depth to the middle palate. Smooth sturdy
tannins and generous fruit. A harmonious wine with a persistent finish. Particularly
good to fine. From 2009
Pommard, premier cru
The selection or rather deselection is made in the vineyard. These are the younger
vines of Clos des Epeneaux; those under 25 years old. However it is not as
straightforward as that. The fruit is also reassessed as wine in the cellar. Some of the
50 year old vines at the top of the Clos suffered in 2004. We tried several samples,
some fruit, where the yields were very low because of the hail, had dehydrated. The
result is very sweet and concentrated with thick rich tannins, rounded generous
body, powerful in the palate but a bit short on the finish. Probably particularly good,
but would need to be reassessed as a finished blend. From 2008
Pommard, Clos Des Epeneaux
Again we tried different samples.

The sample from the 35 year old vines at the bottom of the Clos, where the vines
suffer from millerandage, especially in 2004, was luscious and concentrated, broad
and rich with a mineral bite.
The old vine sample, from the 60-74 year old part of the Clos, replanted in 1930 was
well layered, big and substantially structured.
A third sample was much more floral with refined tannins, much tighter and finer
with a long linear palate, almost chalky with tight acidity, very good balance, firm
and very direct.
The final blend has the two more serious samples together with 20% of the younger
vines. It is rich and seductive, but also pure and vibrantly fruity, the tannins and
texture are muscular and sleek. It has an excellent balance of components.
Directness, grip and a certain austerity on one hand and excellent extract and
richness of fruit on the other. Very fine. From 2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
UK & USA:
Decorum Vintners; Gauntleys of Nottingham; Goedhuis & Co.; Lay &
Wheeler; Laytons Wine Merchants; Lea & Sandeman; Morris & Verdin;
Howard Ripley; Thorman Hunt & Co.
Esquin Imports Inc.; Grape Expectations Inc.
Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, Beaune, France.
Domaine De Courcel, Pommard
“You should make wine for people who drink it and who take pleasure drinking wine
with food,” says Yves Confuron. “For those who like wine young, you could drink the
2002s now”.
Bourgogne
Attractive fruity nose, full and black. Fruit driven attack, chunky, plump and fresh.
Quite simple, but lots of juicy fruit. Very pleasant. From 2006
Pommard
Black and spicy aroma. Direct palate, medium bodied, black fruit with notes of orange
zest and powdered coriander. Moderate extract, but slightly lean with drying tannins.
Good at best. From 2007.
Pommard, Epenots
The malolactic was not finished. Powerful, compact wine, with excellent extract,
straight and strictly structured but glossy with well toned muscular tannin, meaty
black fruit and excellent balance. A sturdy wine, carried off with great flair. Fine.
2010/12
Pommard, Epenots, 2003

Ripe seductive and spicy with a suggestion of nutmeg on the palate. Very compact in
the middle palate with a strong architectural framework, fleshed out with opulent
fruit. Powerful and full-bodied wine with plenty of style. Score 18. From 2009
Pommard, Epenots, 2002
Delicious nose, very classic. Elegant palate firmly structured with lovely intensity,
fine structural tannins, good grip with rather lifted fruit, slightly exotic. It’s
harmonious, complex and stylish with an impressive finish. Score 19. From 2008
Pommard, Rugiens
Very energetic wine. Lifted and a bit exotic. A sophisticated palate, very long, direct
and fluid with elegant flowing tannins. Firm black fruit and sleekly textured. Fine to
very fine. From 2010/12
Stockists
UK: Lea and Sandeman; O.W. Loeb & Co. Ltd.
USA: Diageo Château & Estate.
Domaine Du Marquis D’Angerville, Volnay
Very late malos here and high levels of malic acidity. The Volnay was still going
through when I arrived in November. Renaud de Vilette is not sure why. There was
snow in March so the temperatures were not warm enough, then it started in later
spring and stopped and even the warmth of June would not kick start it.
Like many, de Vilette considers a later malolactic to be beneficial. It is good if it starts
in April. In 2003 it came immediately as the cellars were still warm in September and
the harvest was so early. This year at Domaine d’Angerville they will bottle in
March/April later than normal (January/February), so the wine has time on the lees
after the malo has finished. “This is important for the long evolution of the wine.”
Normally the alcoholic fermentation is very short at this estate, “for finesse,”
comments de Vilette. There is a prefermentation of around 4 days as the indigenous
yeast kicks into action, and then 6-7 days of fermentation, never more. No long
macerations here. The other notable practice is the use of remontage, rather than
pigeage. This is traditional at this estate, not something new.
Only 15-20% new barrels. “We don’t want to hide the finesse of the wine.”
Meanwhile work in the vineyard has included a project of massale sélection. A
selection of 40-50 vines from 35-40 years old vines in Taillepieds was propagated.
Next year some of the vines in year Champans will be replanted.
Renaud de Vilette considers it to be a good year, but not one requiring a long time to
come around. However a good vintage for de Vilette is not a vin de garde “Sometimes
these wines are never good, never subtle, the tannins never soften - like 1998 which
has big tannins and I don’t see any evolution.” He favours “freshness and lovely
fruit,” as in 1992.

On the subject of vintages. De Vilette comments that their 2000s are showing very
well now, “like 1992 , it is very good for early drinking.” He adds that the 1997 is
coming round and 1994 is also good at the moment.”
Volnay
Very pure and bright. A zesty palate, very pretty, juicy fruit and good intensity. The
tannins are pretty assertive, but accentuated by the Co2. Very good(+). From 2007
Volany, Premier Cru
The domaine has three parcels - in Les Pitures, Les Angles and l’Ormeau. Individually
they are not sufficient to make a decent fermentation with sufficient depth and
volume in the tank to raise the temperature to get the necessary peak. However they
have 40 ares of Pitures and de Vilette would like to make a special cuvée sometime in
the future.
Piture has some similarities to Clos des Ducs in that the topsoil is very deep. Clos des
Ducs is unusual for Volnay in having 1m deep topsoil.
More depth here, deeper more concentrated fruit, very pure. Broader, sweeping and
elegant, but also bright and fresh and energetic. It is plump in the middle with a
lively bite and well rounded tannins. Particularly good+. From 2008
Fremiets
There is lots of stone in Fremiets. 1.5 hectares. This comes from several parcels.
Some vines are 50 years plus. One parcel was planted in 1979, another in 1992.
This has more grip and density than the premier cru. The fruit is deep and rich and
concentrated, fullish bodied, direct and staunchly structured for Volnay. At the
moment I prefer the premier cru for the quality of its tannins and balance.
Particularly good++. From 2008
Pommard, Premier Cru
From les Combes which has 50 year old vines. 15% new oak.
Bright raspberry fruit, not a typical Pommard aroma. Richer on the palate with good
juicy intensity, but also a delicate touch, slightly and attractively floral and finely
balanced. It is elegant with firm, but silky tannins. It shows a lot of finesse for
Pommard. Particularly good+ From 2008
Volnay Cailleret
This is violety, intense and lifted. A very alluring aroma and the palate is in harmony.
Lovely silky tannins, firmly structural, but fine with lots of finesse and a taut
energetic core. It’s relatively light-bodied and delicate with vibrant red cherry fruit
and white flowers. There’s a laciness to this wine, although the tannins and structure
are firm. It is nicely intense and has a fine finish. The vines are young here, just 12
years, but the wine is fine. From 2009
Volnay, Champans
Deep red cherry fruit, rich and generous. Luscious attack, velvet texture, plump,
rounded and caressing. Medium to full bodied with good extract. Elegant fluidity
across the palate to a long fine finish. Very sensual. Fine. From 2009
Volnay, Taillepieds

High toned, tense and lifted. There is mineral and slight spice on the palate with good
grip. Very layered, complex and dense and full. It is broader, but more direct, less
sumptuously rounded than Champans, more strictly structured. Tight, elegant,
focused and very, very long. It’s coolly classic. I prefer it to Clos des Ducs this year.
Very fine. From 2010.
Volnay, Clos Des Ducs
“Here there is much more clay and the structure is bigger” comments de Vilette.
This is a rich wine. It has a bigger frame than Taillepieds, medium-full, even more
densely structured, profound, layered and compact, fleshed out with opulent red
fruit, ripe and seductive but with the lucidity, purity and energy of a very good wine
in this vintage. Very fine. From 2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
John Armit Wines; Corney & Barrow Ltd; Fine & Rare Wines Ltd; Justerini &
Brooks; O.W. Loeb Ltd.; La Reserve; Charles Taylor Wines Ltd.
Diageo Château & Estate.
Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay
From generic to premier cru these wines all bear the elegant hallmark of Lafarge.
White Wine
Bourgogne Aligote
Really quite spicy, tight minerality, very bright and rather mineral with good bite. A
very pleasant Aligote. From 2006
Bourgogne Aligote, Vieilles Vignes
This cuvée is from 65 years old vines and has more intensity, is tighter and stony,
with fresh acidity and juicy citrus fruit. Well balanced and lots of character. Really
attractive. From 2006
Meursault
Rounded, full-bodied and plumply rich with a tense mineral structure. Quite powerful,
but also elegant. It’s very good. From 2007
Meursault Sélection
Lovely pure fruit, bright but rich and rather lusciously textured. Vibrant mineral
backbone to balance the fruit. It’s somewhat more intense and finish is longer. Very
good+
Red Wine
Bourgogne
Perfumed with lots of crunchy red berry fruit. Supple texture with fine tannins and
good concentration and structure and for Bourgogne. Top notch. From 2006/7

Côte de Beaune Villages
Really attractive redcurrant fruit. Energetic and well balanced with an attractive bite
to it. Straightforward, honest and very attractive. From 2006/7
Volnay
This is very pure and lifted aroma. A direct profile, red cherry fruit, firm tannins,
nicely edgy, fresh and bright, spirited with good, backbone and focus for village wine.
I like this. Delightful. Very good. From 2007/8
Volnay, Vendanges Sélectionnée
This is richer, fuller with more and depth. Plump fruit balances the velvety, but firm
tannic structure and the finish is very good. It has drive and the structure that
requires time. Very good+. From 2009
Volnay, Premier Cru
Two parcels in Mitans and Chanlins
Quite reserved on the nose. Red fruity attack to a rather tight, fresh and mineral
palate. Fine tannins and medium body with full fruit, good depth and excellent
energy. A well defined, refined and feminine wine with lovely fruit and a long firm
finish. Particularly good+. From 2008
Beaune, Grèves
Full almost spicy aroma. Rich attack, generously rounded with plump sweet fruit in
the middle. This is a well balanced, harmonious and agreeable wine with smooth
tannins, good extract and a decent finish. Particularly good. From 2009
Volnay, Caillerets
This is high toned and lifted. Tenser aromatics. The first impression is soft and fruity.
Deliciously pure fruit runs through the palate, but the backbone is high pitched and
mineral. This is a delightfully structured and balanced wine. It has wonderful energy
and is bright and fresh with haughty elegance. Direct profile and very good length.
Fine+. From 2009
Clos du Château des Ducs
Luscious attack. Plump, elegant and seductive. This has delicious fruit and a svelte
texture. It is very intense with a refined touch and there is a very firm, but discreet
backbone to this wine. Fine, tight tannins. It has definite grip and there is contained
energy onto the very long and stylish finish. It absolutely epitomizes Volnay for me.
Fine to very fine. From 2010
Volnay, Clos Des Chênes
Big, rich and full on the attack with succulent fruit palate. This is intensely
concentrated, ample and smooth, which hides a stern structure beneath. Gravelly
grip and intensely coiled energy. This has a broad, rippling profile and a superb finish.
Very fine to outstanding. From 2012
Pommard, Pezerolles
Deeper and spicier. Full throttled fruit on the attack, opening onto a big broad, but
elegant palate. Well rounded with compact fruit, dense tannins and plenty of energy
and grip. Fine. From 2010
Stockists

UK:
USA:
A & B Vintners Ltd; Bibendum; Berry Bros & Rudd; Ben Ellis Wines; Fine &
Rare Wines Ltd.; Gauntleys of Nottingham; Goedhuis & Co. Ltd.;
Haynes,Hanson & Clark; Howard Ripley; Seckford Wines; The Winery.
Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France. Esquin Imports Inc.
Domaine Hubert De Montille, Volnay
“Fruit is main driver of the vintage. It is not about structure or acidity. This was my
impression from the beginning when we brought in the fruit. I aimed to express the
most voluptuous and harmonious fruit…also for the vineyards hit by hail.” The wine is
in old oak or stainless steel, “to capture the fruit at its best. Its freshness and
energy.”
Bourgogne
From a single parcel below the village border. Bright, lively wine with pleasantly
sweet fruit, unassuming. Attractive. From 2006
Beane, Sizies.
Very fragrant with a sweetly supple palate. Nicely rounded with fair intensity, well
balanced and even with lovely fruit, elegant and plump, and lively energy. Very good.
From 2007
Volnay, Mitans
Darker and peppery on the nose. Lovely plumy attack with a ripe, lush plumpness to
the middle, intense damson fruit and a softness to the structure, softer than is usual
for this wine. Rounded tannins with a little bite and a decent finish. Particularly good,
which is not as good as usual. From 2008
Champans
“ We sorted like crazy.”
Perfumed. Seductive attack with a medium body, supple, but with a hidden, discreet
structure and reasonable substance. Slightly chocolatey and plumy with fluid tannins
and a sweet finish. Particularly good to fine. From 2007/8
Volnay, Taillepieds
Very lifted, much more so than the Mitans. An elegant, fragrant, lively and energetic
profile. Intense purple fruits, fine peppery notes and ripe tannins. It is linear, focused
and streamlined. Very classic and cool and very long. Big step up and on form. Fine to
very fine. From 2008
Pommard, Pezerolles
A fuller aroma, perfumed and intense. Black and spicy fruit, good depth and layering.
It is distinctly reserved, even austere with a firm tannic structure, but it is an elegant
austerity. Very good definition and a long mineral finish. Fine. From 2009
Pommard, Epenots

Dark and sootier and quietly brooding. Very dense and compact with tight tannins. It
is intense with lovely pure fruit, an edge of minerality and a long tight finish, but I
prefer the Pezerolles. Particularly good+. From 2008
Corton, Pouget
Ripe fruit, almost a strawberry aroma. Concentrated summer fruits on the attack.
Ripe fruit defines the palate, which is also rather elegant and streamlined, medium
bodied and quite delicate and feminine for Corton with refined silky tannins and a
long supple finish. Fine+ From 2008
Pommard, Rugiens
This is more exotic, notes of wild flowers and white pepper. Tense attack, firmly
structured with plenty of bite, tight tannins and a taut texture. It has excellent focus,
depth and intensity. Powerful and vigorous, but also elegant and descreet and very
long. Very fine. From 2010
Stockists
UK:
USA:
John Armit Wines; Berry Brothers; Goedhuis and Co; Hayes, Hanson and
Clarke, H. & H. Bancroft, Lay and Wheeler, O.W. Loeb; Howard Ripley; The
Wines Society
Beaune Imports; Martin Scott, Veritas; The Wine House; Europvin.