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En primeur tasting - Burgundy Briefing

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Clos De La Roche<br />

Average age of the vines between 58 and 60 years old 3.4 hectares.<br />

This is very pure. It has a classic paired down structure. Excellent intensity, grip,<br />

drive and length. The tannins are fine, lean and toned. The texture and profile silky<br />

and streamlined. Fine to very fine. From 2012<br />

Stockists<br />

UK:<br />

USA:<br />

John Armit; Ballantynes of Cowbridge; Goedhuis & Co.; Paul Kurs & Co.; Lay &<br />

Wheeler; Morris & Verdin; The Rare & Fine Wine Co.<br />

Vineyard Brands.<br />

Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny<br />

Ghislaine Barthod aims to respect the terroir, but tells me that her approach differs<br />

from that of her parents. When they were making wine 20 years ago, they considered<br />

Chambolle a purely feminine wine, she tells me, not a wine with substance. She does<br />

more pigeage than her father used to. (Everything is totally destemmed). She begins<br />

with pigeage, just twice, then switches to remontage. “I want to keep the finesse,<br />

but with structure…more than my parents…but the most important thing is to have<br />

balance.” She is very careful with new oak to preserve the aromatics. Twenty-five to<br />

thirty percent of new oak is used on the premier cru.<br />

These wines are a delight. They are charming, fragrant and finely balanced.<br />

Bourgogne<br />

Crunchy red cherry aroma. Zesty fruit, lively acidity, light bodied and very refreshing.<br />

Simple and unassuming with plenty of energy. A pretty and attractive Bourogone.<br />

From 2006<br />

Chambolle-Musigny<br />

A blend of 10 parcels.<br />

A somewhat deeper red fruit aroma with correspondingly greater depth and intensity<br />

on the palate. Bright, zesty, pacy Chambolle, light to medium-bodied, crunchy with<br />

light, slightly sappy tannins and balanced acidity. Very charming. Top notch village.<br />

Very good + From 2007/8<br />

Chambolle-Musigny, Aux Combottes<br />

Intense, heady raspberry aroma. Really pure and bright fruit. Lifted and peppery<br />

palate with a lovely silky texture and ripe tannins. Seductive and vivacious.<br />

Particularly good to fine. From 2008/9<br />

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Chatelots<br />

40 year old vines. A deeper top soil here of 30cm.<br />

Rich, darker and a bit more spicy. A very good texture with a sumptuousness to the<br />

black fruit. It’s direct and more streamlined but not quite as charming the Combottes,<br />

although it certainly finishes well. Particularly good. From 2008/9

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