En primeur tasting - Burgundy Briefing

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Bourgogne Perfumed and quite intense. Lovely fruit-driven palate, really concentrated for Bourgogne with vibrancy and raciness. A very even wine. Top notch quality and among the most attractive Bourgogne I tasted on this trip. From 2006. Gevrey-Chambertin Again really lovely red, crunchy fruit of excellent intensity. Full and rich attack, but not at all fat, very vibrant and racy with lively acidity and deliciously fresh fruit right though to the finish. A well defined wine with a firm and direct core. A very good village wine. Very to particularly good. From 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru This is not as forward, but shows contained vigour on the palate. Dark, intense and juicy fruit, slightly astringent tannins. Long and focused. Very good+ From 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques Mineral, slightly smoky and rather reserved. Full, generous palate, dense with smooth substantial tannins, deeply fruity, but also elegant and composed with a thread of minerality through to a well sustained finish. Fine. From 2010. Charmes-Chambertin Very expressive, pure and vibrant red fruit, delicious. equilibrium. Fine. From 2009. Very good intensity and Griotte-Chambertin Rather more exotic and lifted dark red fruit - very clear and succulent. Medium-full with greater density and a finely compact middle palate, concentrated and sophisticated. Very fine+. From 2010 Chapelle-Chambertin Very aromatic, black and spicy with nuances of orange and ground cardamom. Seductive at first and then clamps down to a more austere structure, rugged, much more masculine than the Griotte, dense tight and grainy tannins. Broad shoulders to this wine. Brooding with a long powerful dark finish. Very fine. From 2012 Stockists UK: USA: <strong>En</strong>otria Winecellars; Howard Ripley. Robert Kacher Selections. Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin This is Bernard Dugat-Py’s 30 th vintage, so it is something of a milestone. He describes it as an “interesting vintage.” It hailed 3 times. He picked at an average of 28hl/ha. No chaptalisation and no acidification. The acidity is good and perhaps a little higher than normal, but he doesn’t make an analysis. The fermentation lasts 15- 30 days. “I want to respect the vintage as much as possible and to have as little intervention as possible.” The malolactic fermentation had just finished in late
November. Dugat-Py likes the long malolactic. He considers that it makes the wine sweeter and more rounded, while a short malolactic makes a drier wine. Supremely concentrated and elegant style at this domaine with consistent quality across the range. The vaulted cellar in which we tasted was a fittingly impressive setting for this aromatic, intense and sophisticated set of wines. We started with three very good village wines. All show great typicité. Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes 30-50 year old vines Rich, full aroma of ripe dark summer fruits, which are reflected on the palate. Rounded and ripe, attractively robust with sturdy tannins with slight, not unattractive astringency. Good extract for village wine and a punchy finish. Good to very good. From 2008 Vosne-Romanée, Vielles Vignes A 0.32 parcel with vines over 60 years old. Softer and subtle aroma. This is a floral and aromatic wine with sleek tannins, raspberry fruit and a creamy texture. It is medium bodied, very juicy and gently, but well structured and balanced with good substance for village wine. Delicious. Very good to particularly good. From 2008 Pommard, Vieilles Vignes The vines are More than 70 years old Much more assertive and blacker aroma. A masculine and rich wine, but also vigorous. Meaty and slightly tarry tannins and vibrant acidity. Good firm middle palate and a really good finish here. Also very to particularly good. From 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin, Coeur du Roi The vines are 50-95 years old. They yielded just 22 hl/ha in 2004 Reduced on the nose. Good impact on the palate. Thick, muscular tannins with an edge of astringency, lively acidity, black spicy and slightly tarry fruit. Full bodied, dense and firmly structured masculine wine. These three wines are all very consistent in quality. Particularly good. From 2010. Gevrey-Chambertin, Petite Chapelle A lovely aroma, very floral and spicy - just delicious. Seductive attack leads onto sweet fruit balanced by lively acidity, rounded medium body and smoothly fluid tannins. Very harmonious, long and even across the palate. Not the most powerful Gevrey, but well mannered. Nudging into fine. From 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux 60 year old vines Much more wood evident on the nose here and on the palate. The palate is narrower, focused and direct, slightly sinewy with dense and tarry fruit and juicy acidity. Medium-bodied with a distinct minerality. Particularly good+. From 2010 Charmes-Chambertin Full, intense, with a somewhat spicy and mulberry aroma. Sweet entry to the palate. A supple textured, very harmonious and luscious wine. A palate that flows like a river of velvet with a strong core beneath. Subtly structured and persistent. Very composed. A fine+ Charmes-Chambertin. From 2012
Page 1: The Burgundy Briefing news, views a
Page 5 and 6: This is a new wine for Mortet. The
Page 7 and 8: The strict structure is fleshed out
Page 9 and 10: Red Wines Morey-Saint-Denis Decent
Page 11 and 12: Domaine Des Lambrays, Morey-Saint-D
Page 13 and 14: years to show the terroir. Hence, s
Page 15 and 16: Chambolle-Musigny, Les Baudes Thinn
Page 17 and 18: A graceful set of wine. Freddy Mugn
Page 19 and 20: Bonnes Mares. “The red soil and t
Page 21 and 22: Echezeaux Rather exotic and lifted.
Page 23 and 24: Domaine Jacky Confuron-Cotétidot,
Page 25 and 26: Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées Sweet
Page 27 and 28: Perfumed with notes of anise. A coa
Page 29 and 30: Richebourg Very black and pure, tig
Page 31 and 32: vineyard was not replanted after th
Page 33 and 34: I rather liked the aroma. It’s re
Page 35 and 36: Much higher toned, lifted, red and
Page 37 and 38: A baroque wine. It has a sumptuous
Page 39 and 40: palate. Just beginning to come into
Page 41 and 42: Bourgogne A very sound Bourgogne, q
Page 43 and 44: This is more velvet and generously
Page 45 and 46: Thick and fruity aroma with more su
Page 47 and 48: The sample from the 35 year old vin
Page 49 and 50: On the subject of vintages. De Vile
Page 51 and 52: Côte de Beaune Villages Really att
Page 53:
Dark and sootier and quietly broodi
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En primeur tasting - Burgundy Briefing

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