En primeur tasting - Burgundy Briefing

Ripe seductive and spicy with a suggestion of nutmeg on the palate. Very compact in
the middle palate with a strong architectural framework, fleshed out with opulent
fruit. Powerful and full-bodied wine with plenty of style. Score 18. From 2009
Pommard, Epenots, 2002
Delicious nose, very classic. Elegant palate firmly structured with lovely intensity,
fine structural tannins, good grip with rather lifted fruit, slightly exotic. It’s
harmonious, complex and stylish with an impressive finish. Score 19. From 2008
Pommard, Rugiens
Very energetic wine. Lifted and a bit exotic. A sophisticated palate, very long, direct
and fluid with elegant flowing tannins. Firm black fruit and sleekly textured. Fine to
very fine. From 2010/12
Stockists
UK: Lea and Sandeman; O.W. Loeb & Co. Ltd.
USA: Diageo Château & Estate.
Domaine Du Marquis D’Angerville, Volnay
Very late malos here and high levels of malic acidity. The Volnay was still going
through when I arrived in November. Renaud de Vilette is not sure why. There was
snow in March so the temperatures were not warm enough, then it started in later
spring and stopped and even the warmth of June would not kick start it.
Like many, de Vilette considers a later malolactic to be beneficial. It is good if it starts
in April. In 2003 it came immediately as the cellars were still warm in September and
the harvest was so early. This year at Domaine d’Angerville they will bottle in
March/April later than normal (January/February), so the wine has time on the lees
after the malo has finished. “This is important for the long evolution of the wine.”
Normally the alcoholic fermentation is very short at this estate, “for finesse,”
comments de Vilette. There is a prefermentation of around 4 days as the indigenous
yeast kicks into action, and then 6-7 days of fermentation, never more. No long
macerations here. The other notable practice is the use of remontage, rather than
pigeage. This is traditional at this estate, not something new.
Only 15-20% new barrels. “We don’t want to hide the finesse of the wine.”
Meanwhile work in the vineyard has included a project of massale sélection. A
selection of 40-50 vines from 35-40 years old vines in Taillepieds was propagated.
Next year some of the vines in year Champans will be replanted.
Renaud de Vilette considers it to be a good year, but not one requiring a long time to
come around. However a good vintage for de Vilette is not a vin de garde “Sometimes
these wines are never good, never subtle, the tannins never soften - like 1998 which
has big tannins and I don’t see any evolution.” He favours “freshness and lovely
fruit,” as in 1992.