DOMAINE JEAN-CLAUDE BESSIN * - Burgundy Briefing

The Burgundy Briefing
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Sarah Marsh MW
© copyright Sarah Marsh Ltd
En Primeur Tasting Red 2008
Bourgogne
Assuming it is correctly made with no faults and meets basic expectations, it
could range from sound, pleasant to attractive. 12-14
Village
From sound (although this would be disappointing at this level) through to
pleasant and attractive to good.
Straight village at the top level would be very good.
Deuxiemes crus – the best lieux-dits could reach particularly good
12
13-15
16
17
Premier cru Very good
Particularly good (a very sound premier cru)
Fine (premium)
Very fine (excellent. Top notch premier cru)
16
17
18
19
Grand
Cru
Particularly good (this falls below expectations of grand cru quality)
Fine (premium wine)
Very fine (excellent)
Outstanding (excellent with x factor)
17
18
19
20
1

Maison Champy, Beaune....................................................................................................... 5
Maison Chanson, Beaune...................................................................................................... 9
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Beaune .......................................................................................... 13
Maison Dujac Fils & Pere, Morey-Saint-Denis ....................................................................... 16
Maison Joseph Faiveley, Nuits-Saint-Georges........................................................................ 17
Maison Camille Giroud, Beaune ........................................................................................... 24
Maison Benjamin Leroux, Beaune ........................................................................................ 26
Domaine Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin ....................................................................... 30
Domaine Pierre Damoy, Gevrey Chambertin ......................................................................... 32
Domaine Claude Dugat, Gevrey-Chambertin ......................................................................... 34
Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin ................................................................................. 36
Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin .......................................................................... 40
Domaine Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin .................................................................. 44
Domaine Jean & Jean-Louis Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin ........................................................ 46
Domaine Dujac, Morey-Saint-Denis...................................................................................... 48
Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Morey-Saint-Denis ....................................................................... 51
Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny ................................................................... 54
Domaine François Bertheau, Chambolle-Musigny .................................................................. 56
Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils, Chambolle Musigny.................................................................. 57
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Chambolle-Musigny........................................................ 61
Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny................................................ 64
Domaine Comte Georges De Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny ....................................................... 67
Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, Vosne-Romanée.......................................................................... 69
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée.......................................................................... 72
Domaine Jacky Confuron-Cotétidot, Vosne-Romanée............................................................. 74
Domaine Gandrey, Vosne-Romanée..................................................................................... 77
Domaine Forey Père & Fils, Vosne-Romanée......................................................................... 78
Domaine Jean Grivot, Vosne-Romanée................................................................................. 80
Domaine Anne Gros, Vosne-Romanée .................................................................................. 84
Domaine Michel Gros, Vosne-Romanée ................................................................................ 86
Domaine Lamarche, Vosne-Romanée................................................................................... 90
Domaine Du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée ................................................................. 93
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Vosne-Romanée ............................................................................. 96
Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Vosne-Romanée .................................................... 99
Domaine De La Romanée-Conti, Vosne-Romanée ................................................................102
Domaine De L’Arlot, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Prémeaux ............................................................104
Domaine Robert Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges ...................................................................107
Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron, Nuits-Saint-Georges Prémeaux..........................................109
Domaine Henri Gouges, Nuits-Saint-Georges .......................................................................111
Domaine De La Vougeraie, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Prémeaux...................................................113
Domaine Bonneau Du Martray, Pernand-Vergelesses............................................................118
Domaine Simon Bize, Savigny-Lès-Beaune ..........................................................................120
Domaine Chandon De Briailles, Savigny-Lès-Beaune.............................................................123
Domaine Jean-Marc Pavelot, Savigny-Lès-Beaune ................................................................125
Domaine des Croix, Beaune ...............................................................................................127
Domaine Du Comte Sénard, Beaune ...................................................................................128
Domaine Germain, Chateau De Chorey-Lès-Beaune .............................................................130
Domaine Du Comte Armand, Clos Des Epeneaux, Pommard..................................................134
Domaine A.F. Gros, Pommard ............................................................................................136
Domaine De Courcel, Pommard..........................................................................................138
Domaine François Parent, Pommard ...................................................................................139
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Domaine du Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay ............................................................................140
Domaine Jean-Marc et Thomas Bouley, Volnay ....................................................................144
Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay.........................................................................................147
Domaine Hubert De Montille, Volnay...................................................................................150
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol-Jeanniard, Volnay......................................................................153
Domaine Joseph Voillot, Volnay..........................................................................................156
There is a slight departure in the tasting notes for the red 2008s. I have decided to put a score
in brackets after my normal assessment, (Good, particularly good, fine etc…). Personally I favour
evaluation in words at this stage, particularly when the wines are quite retarded in their
development for example because of the late malolactic fermentation. However I concede that a
numerical score is easier to understand. I have put it in brackets to emphasize the point that no
assessment at this unfinished, pre-bottling stage should be considered definitive.
A note on the stage and condition in which wine has been presented for tasting.
Where possible I have mentioned the stage at which the wines have been tasted. It can make a
considerable difference to the wine. The structure is the most important aspect and can be
assessed even if the aroma and fruit on the palate are suppressed. However, these wines might
edge up half a mark in a subsequent tasting.
Growers have different ways of presenting their wines. Etienne Grivot for example shows
everything in three year old barrels, so the focus is on the fruit. Many growers show a blend of
wine from different barrels to reflect the final wine, and level of oak, as closely as possible.
A few considerations:
1.There was a wide spectrum in terms of how ‘raw’ and how finished the wines were. There was
a lot of malic acidity, which not only gives the impression of acidity which is higher than the final
total acidity will be, but can make the wine a bit harder on the finish and make the tannins seem
higher than they actually are. (Total acidity is expressed in g/l H2SO4).
2. If the wine has not been racked, it maybe lively and bright if it has plenty of CO2, or the lees
may be too evident. If the reductive process has gone too far it can become reduced. Growers
may not rack until the wine is ready for bottling when the wine is racked to a vat for blending
and settling, prior to bottling.
3. If the wine has just been racked, it could be much more expressive in comparison with a wine
which has not, or it might be rather ‘tired’ if it has just been moved.
4. SO2. After racking the wine is more vulnerable to oxygen without the protective larger lees
and the CO2 from malolactic fermentation, but when S02 is added, the aroma and fruit will be
suppressed.
Older vintages have grey titles, rather than blue, to distinguish them.
Sarah Abbot MW accompanied me to taste the 2008 reds in Burgundy this year, as she did
last. This was the most practical way to fulfil subscribers’ requests for The Burgundy Briefing to
review more domaines. Sarah has an excellent palate. I have had plenty of opportunity to see
her in action as she attended a tasting group I hosted for MW students in the 7 months run up to
their exams in the year after I had passed mine. (Katherine Richardson, who accompanied me to
taste the 2005 and 2006 red vintages, was in the same group.) Partly because of this and
certainly because of the MW in general, Sarah tastes in very similar way to me, so there should
3

e a sense of continuity throughout the tasting notes of the 2008 wine. Sarah has many years of
experience working for a Burgundy importer. For the past few years she has been running her
own wine business.
The domaines at which I tasted will have my initials, SM, below the introduction. The domaines
where Sarah tasted will have SA.
4

Maison Champy, Beaune
Pierre Meurgey remarks that there was, “Density and more flesh than we expected. We were all
happy with the ‘miracle’ and we had decent hopes, but it is better than we had hoped, even at
harvest, for both red and white.”
Champy will soon announce the extension of about 10 hectares which will include more Choreyles-Beaune,
Les Beaumonts. There is no domaine owned land in the Côte de Nuits vineyards
“There is pure fruit with good concentration. It could be a little like 1993 or may be 1991. The
2008 reds are better than 2007. Better flesh and better fruit than the 2007 and the similar level
of acidity. “With the flesh on this vintage, it has decent ageing potential.”
“2008 is a winemaker vintage more than wine growers. In other words you have adapted the
winemaking to the potential of the grapes. The seed were not completely brown in 2008, so had
to adapt.”
I was perhaps somewhat more excited by the whites in the summer, which did rather raise my
level of expectation overall. However I think this is a good set of reds from Champy. The entry
level wines are lovely fruity Pinots, which should appeal widely. The village wines are decent,
with the Pernard giving the most terroir interest and the Chambolle showing true Chambolle
perfume and fruit. The Grand Crus are perhaps the weakest area as they generally fall short of
the proper status (Echézeaux is the most successful). It is certainly in the middle region of
Premier Crus that Champy is stronger. There are two very attractive wines from Beaune,
especially Cras, an elegant Pommard, Grand Epeneots and good a Volnay, Taillepieds. This
should all be seen in the context of price. This is a good source of wine which should be
attractively less expensive than the premium growers.
SM
*Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Côte de Beaune Pinot Noir and no declassified village wine. This is made in stainless steel tank.
Warm strawberry aroma. Very pretty with soft tannins and juicy fruit. Clear and fresh. It is a
perfectly pleasant, fruit driven wine. Pleasant. (12.5). From now on
Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Signature
Matured in barrels of which 25% are new. 50% through MLF. The fruit comes from the plain of
Volnay for one part and the other from near NSG. It will be bottled at the end of the year.
Red cherry fruit. The palate is fresh with pure fruit and a little more richness with soft tannin and
creamy texture. It is juicy and well balanced. Attractive fresh lift to the end of the palate. It is a
modern style, crowd pleasing wine. (12.5). from 2010
Côte-de-Beaune Villages
The fruit is from Pernard-Vergelesses. 50-66% has gone through malolactic.
Blossomy aroma. Quite floral. The palate is lifted and appealing. Creamy tannins, very pure fruit
which is juicy and energetic. It is an appealing wine with a lively fresh finish which has slightly
chalky minerality. Attractive (14). From 2011
5

*Chorey-les-Beaune
Sourced Les Beaumonts, one third are their own grapes.
Pure, lifted and tight cherry aroma. Silky textured texture. It is fresh and lightly seductive. A
charming Chorey which ripples gently across the palate. Pure fruit and well-mannered. Very
attractive(+) (14-14.5). From 2012
*Pernand-Vergelesses, Clos de Bullly
1 hectare is domaine owed and ½ a hectare they work. Planting on this site goes back to the
monks in the C12th. It is quite high at 350 m and is a natural amphitheatre facing East
South/East.
Pure, lucid and bright. A discreet attack. Tight, chalky and racy with attractively sappy, small
cherry fruit. Focused, slightly austere and mineral on the finish. It has some tension. I like it.
Very good village Pernand (14.5-15). From 2012/13
Savigny-Les-Beaune, Aux Fourches
Deep clay soil on the flat. This has finished its MLF.
Promising aroma with dark red fruit. Quite sweet on the attack, but a touch chunky in the middle
palate with somewhat rustic tannins. Lacks a little style. Attractive at most. (13.5-14) From 2013
Pommard
The MLF is two thirds through. This is from two places: Les Cras, which is on the flat and ripens
quickly and one third from Les Lambots, which is high and cool and is harvested one week later.
Very estery aroma. The fruit has some depth and ripeness and the acidity is fresh. There is
tension and a touch of minerality here. It is quite smooth with tannins which are firm and a little
robust. The finish is energetic. Very attractive+. (14.5). From 2013
Volnay
The MLF 2/3 through. There are 14 barrels of this. There is Volnay from the plain and from Sur
Roche, which is high up.
Lifted, pure red fruit aroma. It is lively and energetic to start. The tannins are quite tight. The
fruit perhaps lacks a little in the middle palate. It is a little loose and indistinct. However it has a
more refined, pure and chalky finish. A wine of two parts. The finish is good. I would like to see it
again. Very attractive+. (14.5). From 2012/13
Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Planted in 1959
Quite perfumed and spicy. There is fat on the attack. Juicy middle palate. Good density of dark
fruit which is lifted with freshness. Slightly sinewy tannins. It is a little rustic in the tannin. Very
attractive. (14.5). From 2012/13
*Chambolle Musigny
Purchased grapes. Les Condemennes, a village parcel below Les Charmes.
Perfumed and lifted. A pure and supple palate. It has a nicely scented palate. It ripples elegantly
across the palate. Lovely tannins with a sensual texture. Fresh and elegant. A true Chambolle
with a decent sustained finish. Appealing village wine. Good. (15). From 2012
Vosne-Romanée
Purchased grapes. Racked once and put in older barrels and it will be bottled in February or
March.
Some good fruit on the aroma. Pure and quite intense. The attack is elegant and the texture is
silky and the tannins sweet. It flows rather elegantly and gently across the palate. At the end
there is some tension and a very appealingly lift of freshness. While not the most substantial
village Vosne, it is certainly very decent village. Very atttactive to good. (14.5-15). From 2012/13
6

Moving back to the Côte de Beaune for the premier cru
Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Fichot
This is a domaine vineyard. Deep clay soil with the same configuration as Aux Fourches. They
produce 10 barrels. It has been racked once.
A dark slightly liquorish aroma. Good fruity on the attack. Firm, slightly sinewy tannins. It has
good energy with some density of fruit in the middle palate. It is a little rustic, but very honest.
Good+ (15.5). From 2013/14
Beaune, Champ Pimonts
This had been a domaine vineyard since 1997.
Sweet and seductive attack. The tannins are supple. The juicy red cherry fruit is succulent and
vivid. It is nicely rounded. There is a certain amount vibrancy. Perhaps a touch robust, but very
agreeable. It finishes with plenty of freshness and fruit. Very to Particularly Good. (16.5-17) From
2014
*Beaune, Les Cras
This is has finished MLF and is in older barrels.
Lifted and high aroma. It is pure, rippling and elegant. It has chalky minerality and a cool profile.
The tannins are silky and fine and it has a smooth talcy texture. I like the vitality and the
minerality. Moderate substance, light and quite refined. Particularly Good. (17). from 2014
*Pommard, Grand Epeneots
MLF is finished and it is in bottle
This has a full and dark aroma. Generous, supple and juicy. There is a depth of fruit, ripe and
glossy, but not heavy. There are present and quite firm tannins, but they are smoothed and quite
polished. It has a taut, well defined and long finish with layers of fruit and spice. Particularly
good to fine. (17-18) From 2014
*Volnay, Taillepieds
This is a domaine vineyard. 5 barrels. 1 week of cold maceration. 1 pigeage a day at the active
stage. It reaches a peak of 33 degrees. At the end of the fermentation there is one pump over to
help the yeast finish the fermentation. They blend the free run with the press juice. (They pres
with a pneumatic press at 0.6 bar). The MLF had finished.
Pure and straight aroma. Juicy attack and pleasing mulberry fruit. The texture is fine, satin and
flowing. It then focuses with a bit of light muscle and firmness to the tannins. It is a well
balanced and well executed wine. It has tension and smoothly stony mineral finish. Elegance with
a touch of austerity. Certainly fine. (18) From 2014.
Corton
Purchased grapes.
This is a rather supple and amenable Corton. It flows smoothly across the palate and is not at all
burly. Plenty of agreeable fruit. It perhaps lacks a little in dimension and depth of substance. The
finish has long and slightly chalky intensity. It is certainly harmonious and quite elegant. Nudging
into Fine. (17.5-18) From 2016
Gevrey Chambertin, Les Cazetiers
MLF finished. Not racked yet. A little bit reduced.
Vibrant on the attack and a zesty pace across the palate. High toned fresh juicy fruit with a touch
of spice and notes of dark and quartzy mineral. Good tension and spine. Moderate density of fruit
7

in the middle palate and plenty of minerality on decent sustained finish. Quite stylish. Particularly
good to fine. (17.5-18). From 2014/15
Vosne Romanée, Les Suchots
MLF finished in the spring
Seductive and velvety aroma. Soft and suede supple texture. It has toned muscle and juicy, fresh
ripe red fruit. Good intensity of red fruit and depth in the middle palate. It is quite compact and
layered. The finish is taut and has vigour. Fine. (18) From 2015
*Echézeaux
Depth and intensity to the aroma. Generous ripe attack to a palate of some substance. Yet, it has
elegance enhanced with lively freshness and polished granite minerality. Lovely, long fluid finish.
Fine to fine+ (18-18.5). From 2015
Clos Vougeot
Malo finished.
A lightly layered wine. Elegantly streamlined. This is not a big powerful Clos de Vougeot. It is
engaging with juicy and brightly fresh fruit. The energy carries it to a long and flowing finish. It
may be a little light on substance and real depth of fruit, but it is certainly stylish and pleasing.
Nudging into fine (17.5-18). From 2015.
Charmes-Chambertin
The vines are certified organic and the vines are 35 years. The wine is racked and in older
barrels.
It is a little austere without the charm, the generous expansive palate and the perfume of other
Charmes in this vintage. However it has vigour, together with some spicy red fruit and a tense
and compact palate. The finish is a fair, but a little hard. To be tasted again.
Mazis-Chambertin
3 barrels. MLF finished before harvest and SO2 before harvest. Reduced.
This shows much more typicité. There is firm structure and good density. It is really quite
architectural. Dark fruit and spice. Firm tannic structure. It is not quite showing the generous,
juicy fruit which cloaks the structure in this vintage in other Mazis. However it has vigour and a
decent direct and well channeled finish. A touch sauvage maybe. It should improve. Potentially
Fine. (18). From 2015
Stockists
UK:
Hayes, Hanson and Clark
8

Maison Chanson, Beaune
Maison Chanson produces one million bottles from 108 appellations, which range from Chablis to
the Beaujolais
Working with fruit from across the Côte d’Or Jean-Pierre has a good overall impression of the
weather through the season and recalls the path of the hail that hit the northern part of Côte de
Beaune. “It didn’t hit Pommard, but just as usual the Northern part of Volnay. It hit Pernand-
Vergelesses and Savigny and in Beaune, Clos du Roi, Clos des Fèves and Bressandes before it
stopped in Beaune, Grèves. The problem was that we had a lot of rot so we had to make a big
selection of 25% of botrytised grapes and the yield was on average, for whole domaine, 29
hl/ha. We did the selection with the workers in the vineyard and then on the table.”
Chanson harvested from the 22 nd September to the 2 nd October.
In the winery the ‘house’ approach is to use whole bunch, “for length and spice,” remarks Jean-
Pierre.
“The quality of the vintage was not the best, so we pushed the extraction; we did more cold
maceration to extract fruit, then more pigeage and less plumping over to avoid any oxidation and
to preserve the colour and the fruit. And we reduced the ageing; we racked some cuvées just
after the MLF, in March, to respect the balance and to preserve the fruit. We moved the wine to
tank from the barrel, before the tannins became too much. This was especially important for
Côte de Beaune to preserve the quality and terroir and the sweetness of the fruit.”
The MLF was a little late here, but not exceptionally so. Jean-Pierre was quite happy about this.
“I don’t like an early malolactic. We didn’t add any lactic bacteria.” He recalls the malic was high,
but not especially so. “The malic was higher in the whites than the reds as the flowering was
much later in the reds. For many years in Burgundy we have had a good and quick flowering in
Chardonnay and a late and less good one in red; for a string of vintages – something is affecting
the flowering… maybe climate change.”
They use 30% of new oak from the red village wines to the grand cru. (20% for the whites). “We
want oak of different ages to have a good view of the cuvèe,” explains Jean-Pierre.
Chanson, which was founded in 1750, is a major landholder in Beaune. They have 25 hectares of
Beaune which include 10 premier crus. Chanson has many of the original clos, “the vineyards as
we know them now are extensions from these central pieces of land,” remarks Jean-Pierre.
From 2000 they began ploughing the domaine parcels and ceased the use of all herbicides.
Winemaker Jean-Pierre Confuron remarks that the domaine wines now show more minerality
because of this.
Although Chanson has considerable domaine holdings in the Côte de Beaune, it has none in the
Côte de Nuits. (I have specified whether the land is domaine in the tasting notes). For the
négoce wine the purchase of fruit is through contracts with the growers. Chanson will have
chosen the piece of land and will have overseen the viticulture. As Jean-Pierre remarks, “we aim
for these wines to be as close to the domaine quality as possible and generally it is the same land
year after year.” The aim is to show specific terroir character.
9

Jean-Pierre comments on the 2008s: “It is a lovely vintage especially in red. It is better for Côte
de Nuits than the Côte de Beaune. It is better in red than white. The whites have a high level in
acidity.” He considers the whites creamy, but too high in acidity to be a great vintage. “But for
reds it is totally different. They have lovely fruit, red or black. They don’t have a big structure,
but are rounded and well balanced. They are perfect for the market now and for 8 to 10 years.”
“2008 is better than 2004, maybe same level as 1997, but with higher level of acidity in the
whites and reds were also better than whites in 1997 as they are in 2008.” Jean-Pierre links the
spice in this vintage to ripeness. “It is a lovely vintage, if it is ripe…”
I prefer these reds to the 2007s. As mentioned above they use 100% whole bunch at Chanson
and it works well with the 2008s, more so than in 2007. The wines below are just a selection of
the reds. They are a well executed set of wines, which articulate their terroir and bode well for
the rest of the portfolio. “I like to create an emotion with the wine,” says Jean-Pierre. This is a
very decent flight of wines. I particularly enjoyed tasting the different appellations from Beaune
and have included much of Jean-Pierre’s comment on the terroir.
SM
*Santenay, Beauregard
This is domaine wine. They bought it in 2006, so last year was the first in production. This is in
vat now. The soil is porous, which was useful in the rainy conditions of the 2008 summer. “It was
ripe because of the terroir, not the vintage,” remarks Jean-Pierre. “We didn’t need much
selection in Santenay. It is up hill and cool, so we harvested later than the Beaune on the 20-
22 nd .
Lively cherry aroma with a slight hint of methyl. Very sweet fruit on the attack, fresh and
energetic with soft tannins, but there is also a bit of substance. A very attractive juicy, fruity
wine. Good. (15) From 2012
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Dominode
This is domaine wine. It is in oak and a little reduced.
The palate has some gumption to the structure, but is rather rustic. Quite unforgiving with tarry
tannins and dark fruit. It finishes reasonably well, but lacks style. (14.5). From late 2012/2013.
Beaune, Clos du Roi
This is domaine wine. Sandy soil so they start the harvest here. It is a hot spot and the grapes
ripen quickly. “We cannot produce a strong and structured wine so we are trying to find the date
to give a fruity wine. “It’s a wine for spring and summer,” says Jean-Pierre.
Appealingly ripe and expressive fruity aroma. Full fruit on the attack. A soft and sumptuous
palate with a luscious texture and soft tannins. It is generous and nicely balanced with freshness.
It finishes on sweet fruit. Very Good+. (16-16.5) From 2013
*Beaune, Teurons
4 hectares of this domaine land. “Teurons is more for autumnal food; for richer dishes,” Jean-
Pierre tells me. This has the same vinification as the others reds. “I make them all in the same
way, as I want to show the terroir.” The viticultural approach is also the same….the difference in
the wine should be the terroir speaking.” There is more clay and limestone in Teurons. The rock
is just 20 cm beneath the top soil. A sunny terroir….
This is rich, but upright on the aroma. Ripe black cherry on the attack. An energetic palate with
firm, smoothly cloaking tannins. It has freshness, vivid dark fruit and a lively long finish. This is
nice and firmly structured; neat and well controlled with good tension on the finish. Particularly
Good+. (17-17.5). From 2014
10

Beaune, Champimonts
This lies at the beginning of the third section of hill moving southwards. It has sandy soil with
limestone and there is a cold wind that blows here. “People forget this wind,” remarks Jean-
Pierre. “As this has a Northerly orientation, it’s a cold wind and the grapes mature slowly…and
because of the sandy soil, it drains when it’s wet.”
Morello cherry and white pepper aroma. Sweet fruit attack with pure and tight blueberry fruit. It’s
zesty with quite tense tannins and some vivacity. The tannins are sappy and it is flecked with
high-toned spice on the finish. Particularly good. 17 From 2014
Beaune, Clos des Marconnets
This is on the most Northerly part. It has rock and clay. It is a 15 degree slope but with a South
East orientation is a sunny terroir. “It does not have wind,” says Jean-Pierre. “The motorway,
which is built up above the natural ground level by 5 metres, stops the wind at the bottom of
Marconnets and in Clos du Roi. We used to pick this late, but now we pick it early because of the
effect of the motorway.” The fruit had one degree more alcohol here, than in the other Beaune,
despite the fact that it was the first to be picked.
Full and opulent on the nose. It has a broad palate, densely filled with rich fruit and structured
with substantial, muscular tannins: a slightly ridged profile. It is not so elegant, more robustly
muscular and burly. A cool stone character really lifts the finish. Very good to particularly good.
(16.5). From 2014/15
*Beaune, Clos des Mouches
This abuts Pommard Boucherottes in the middle part of the hill. Clay and limestone with some
rock. It is sunny, but is affected by the North wind. These are old vines, some planted in 1945
and the remainder in 1961 and 1969.
An elegant aroma with notes of wild raspberry and cherry blossom. It slips sweetly across the
palate on rather refined tannins, layered with perfume and airy exotic spices and a hint of orange
peel. It is harmonious and silky and flows to a long and subtle, yet fresh finish with cool mineral
and a touch of dark chocolate at the end. It has finesse. Fine to fine+. (18-18.5) From 2014/15
“It looks like Beaune Clos de Mouches 1955,” says Jean-Pierre.
Beaune, Clos des Fèves
This is a monopole. Half way up the second section of the hill. “In the classification by Dr Laville
it was tête de cuvée,” Jean-Pierre is keen to point out. There are 5 vats of this and two are
labeled as such, while three are declassified.
Spice, white pepper and dark chocolate notes create a nuanced aroma. Quite an intense attack,
ripe, but with depth of fruit in the middle palate. Rich fruit coupled with cool, sappy tannins. The
palate is underpinned with minerality, which carries to the finish which is long and direct. It has
energy. Particularly good to fine. (17.5) From 2015.
*Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Vergelesses
Domaine wine and large parcel of it… 5.4 hectares. I think Jean-Pierre said that Chanson own
10% of Pernand-Vergelesses, but maybe I misheard.
Dark cherry aroma. This has a no-nonsense, direct palate, which is well defined and tense. Racy
to the finish. Bright sappy minerality. Well focused and linear. Plenty of energy. I like it. Very to
particularly good. (16.5). from 2013
Pommard
Bought in grapes. Sweet cassis aroma. Soft palate, gentle and rippling. Well mannered tannins. A
light and charming Pommard with a fresh finish. Very accessible. Attractive. (14) From 2012
11

Nuits-Saint-Georges
Bought in grapes. The same grower has supplied Chanson since 2001.
Dark bramble fruit aroma with slight note of spice. Quite a soft and light Nuits-Saint-Georges on
the front of the palate, but actually it is a little deceptive, for it focuses in and has a decent
mineral finish and a direct line. Very attractive+. (14.5) From 2012
*Gevrey Chambertin
Just under Les Cazetières. 3 hectares on contract with 2 wine growers.
Dark fruit and slight spice on the nose. Appealing fruit on the attack. This has a liquorish, floral,
zesty acidity and a mineral bite; dark with a touch of tar, underscored with mineral to the finish.
Rather elegant. Spot on village wine. Good. (15) From 2014
Gevrey Chambertin, Lavaut St Jacques
These are grapes bought on contract. “The marn soil, which is yellow marn, is better for whites,”
says Jean-Pierre. “It can give a little hardness to the tannins. This is a cold terroir.”
Juicy blackberry aroma. Attractively spicy palate with fine sappy tannins and lively energy. It has
a looser-knit fruit fabric but is underpinned by powdery, chalky minerality which carries to a firm
straight finish. Particularly good+. (17-17.5). From 2014
Nuits Saint Georges, Les Porets St Georges
Plum and spice mingle and lift on this ripe aroma. Full attack. Juicy palate with dark and luscious
fruit. Then the tannins are certainly assertive and the profile becomes somewhat bullish. A touch
rustic in the middle perhaps. One hopes this will be smoothed out in the ageing. Decently long
finish. Very good+. (16.5) From 2014/15
Charmes Chambertin
Jean-Pierre points out that this is from the Charmes section, not the Mazoyéres part. “The proper
Charmes is rocky and less deep than Mazoyéres. It is sunnier and the wine should be more
charming. In Mazoyéres there is more clay and limestone and it will be more mineral and
stronger. The Mazoyéres is a colder terroir…..”
Very scented and expansive aroma. Mandarin, cinnamon and purple notes. Generous onto the
attack, juicy and full. It has a broad profile and a soft, crocheted texture. Nicely balancing
freshness which entwines with the scent on the long and tapering finish. It is enveloped in
perfume. Very competent Charmes, but lacks the extra level of depth and intensity of a top notch
grand cru. Fine (18.5). From 2015.
Chambertin, Clos de Bèze
Taut and upright aroma. The vigorous attack is full and rich. A good deal of compact fruit and a
real density to the ripe, sumptuous palate. Power and intensity and focus. Within the firm
architectural frame there is some deliciously spicy fruit with notes of dark chocolate, coffee,
liquorish and aniseed. A powerful, full throttle finish. A well structured wine. Fine+ to very fine.
(18.5-19) from 2017
Jean-Pierre tells me that the more rigorous profile of this Clos de Bèze is explained by the
position of their parcel adjacent to Chambertin.
Stockists
UK:
Mentzendorff
12

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Beaune
Several of the blends had finished ageing in barrel and were in tank when I tasted. All the
samples represented the final blend.
Jérôme Faure-Brac, (Director of Wine Operations at Drouhin), comments on the 2008: “It is a
proper vintage. The winter was hard and the MLF was slow. The MLF started at end of April and
finished in July.”
“It was not an easy vintage viticulturally or in terms of the winemaking. It is what I call a
‘sacrifice’ vintage. It needed a lot of attention in the vineyard during the season followed by
selection in the winery. We had large grapes. However the stalks were often ripe in 2008, so we
could use whole bunch….30-40%. We decided to extend the post ferment maceration from the
norm.” The wine had 22-24 days vatting versus 18-22 in 2007.
“Generally the acidity was high, but after the MLF the balance is good. For the reds we used
bâttonage to give roundness to the palate. After the sorting we had surprisingly good lees so we
could work with them over the year.” They were surprised with the quality of the lees given the
botrytis and the general character of the season. “We tasted the wines once a month after MLF
and decided if they needed a stir.”
Jérôme remarks that they worked carefully with the press wine in 2008. “We stopped the
pressing early or the tannins could have become bitter.” They use a vertical press delicately with
pressure equivalent to 0.6-1.2 bar.
Jérôme was very careful to take the wine out of barrel before the wood took over. It was then
put into tank. Many of the wines had been racked and blended and were in stainless steel for the
second part of their ageing. They are kept a 14-15 degrees; the ‘controlled’ ambient temperature
of the winery.
Both white and red will be bottled 3 months earlier than usual ie from November 09 to January
2010. “At Drouhin we like a fruity expression. This should always be the first impression and
behind this should be the support and structure.”
Jérôme believes the spiciness is the mark of the whole bunch, which produces a semi carbonic
maceration and has the added effect of the stems. “This gives a particular spice and a very
special perfume.”
Jérôme explains that since 2005 they have worked in partnership with the growers. “They know
that we focus on quality. Because we want a continuous partnership we pay for quality.” Drouhin
are very influential with the growers from the viticulture to the winemaking. The price is
determined so they do not have to think about the quantity of fruit.” The growers who also make
wine for them follow a work sheet.
“The 2008 is a good vintage for definition of the terroir,” remarks Jérôme. “We use the same
process in the vineyard and in the winemaking for all the wines. The difference is the vintage and
within this the terroir is clearly defined.”
A pure and fruit-driven flight of wines with marked elegance in the finer cru.
SM
13

Laforêt Pinot Noir
Pure and uplifting pinot aroma. Attractive fruity attack to a bright palate with soft tannins and an
appealing vibrancy. Simple and pleasant. (12) From 2010.
Chorey-Lès-Beaune
Red cherry, crunchy aroma. Zesty attack. It is light and brightly fruity. Some attractive sappy
tannins and a juicy finish. Certainly attractive. (14) From late 2010/11.
Côte de Beaune
This flows easily across the palate. Juicy, red plum attack and soft tannins. A fruit driven wine
with a soft compote of summer fruit on the finish enlivened with a fresh lift. Attractive. (14) From
late 2010/11
*Beaune, Grèves
This was racked a few days prior to tasting. Now it will stay in stainless steel for one to four
months. “It depends on the marriage between the wine and the wood,” says Jérôme.
This has a soft and talcy perfume. Silky onto the palate which is scented, ample and harmonious.
It is velvet soft and gently rounded underscored with smooth graphite minerality and fine, but
supportive tannins. A good finish with perfume and spice. Particularly Good. (17) from 2013/14
*Beaune, Clos Des Mouches
Racked a couple of weeks before this tasting and in stainless steel.
Slightly spicy and well mannered aroma. Perfumed on the attack. Supple and flowing. It has a
lovely texture and silky smooth tannins. There is a pure and intense core which provides the
structure and a fine line of lucid fruit and perfume on the finish. Fine+. (18.5) From 2013/14
Volnay, Clos Des Chênes
On lees and a little reduced.
Soft, opulent richness to the aroma. Delicious and lucid red fruit on the palate. The tannins are
supportive and slightly sappy and it has a spicy, juicy finish. There is a lift of sappy brightness at
the end. Particularly good+. (17.5) From 2010.
Corton, Bressandes
The crop was very small at 28 hl/ha. “It was not easy for winemaking. When we have a small
quantity, we work directly in double sized barrels. We put the whole bunches into the barrels.
Afterwards we have to open them and press the fruit. However this way we get finesses of pinot
and the fruit of pinot as it is a good reductive environment. We use this technique for some
parcels of grand cru to find a different perfume.”
Softly talcy and perfumed aroma. Rich, but subtle on the front of the palate. It shows a light
touch for Corton. Pure fruit and velvety supportive tannins. It has a soft and rippling fluidity and
lucid, richly scented fruit. Not as much substance and backbone as one might expect to see for a
top grand cru, but very composed and nicely executed. Fine, perhaps fine+ (18). From 2015
Gevrey-Chambertin
Dark fruit with light notes of cassis; juicy and vivid. Attractively peppery tannins and a lively
piquancy with plenty of spice and pepper on the finish. A light and easy Gevrey village. Very
Attractive+ 14.5. From 2012
Charmes-Chambertin
It is very fragrant. Soft, lightly luscious on the front of the palate to a wide, deeply seductive and
loose textured palate. It has an expansive nature. However it just a bit diffuse at the edges.
14

While it is enveloped in delicious scent, it is without great precision at the edges or in the core,
but then it is Charmes. Fine. (18) From 2015
*Griotte-Chambertin
Fresh and tense and tight. There is an intensity of vibrant fruit. Bright, tight dark cherry notes. It
dances on the palate. It is not the most complex Griotte I have tasted in the vintage, but it is
undeniably joyous. It has piquancy, plenty of tight spice, firm, fine grained tannin and a vivacious
finish. I like it. Fine + (18.5). 2015
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Procès
40% of whole bunch.
Dark, savoury note with touch of lead pencil. This wine swiftly focus the palate. Firm and dark
tannins. It is coiled, taut and slightly sauvage. Spicy fruit, freshness and tension merge on the
finish. Particularly Good+ (17-17.5)
*Vosne-Romanée, Les Petits Monts
This is reduced but on the palate has intensity, stony minerality, and vibrancy. There are dark
forest fruits and a touch of the wild. The tannins are somewhat taut and lightly sinewy. There
are cassis and peppery notes on the well sustained and lively finish. It stands apart as quite
individual from this urbane flight of wines. Firmly Fine to fine+. (18-18.5) From 2015
*Grands Echezeaux
A deep, darkly spicy and harmonious aroma. It is a smooth operator which glides in a thick
ribbon across the palate. Shammy-supple, supportive tannins. There is a hint of dark chocolate,
cinnamon and nutmeg and a lovely long and spicy finish. Spice 18.5. From 2015/16.
Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru
Drouhin estate grapes represents 60% of this cuvée. One grower produces and vinifies the
remainder.
The palate has charming red fruit with good intensity. It has a nicely balanced structure with
freshness coupled with pure fruit. The finish was of good premier cru length and intensity
However, at the time I tasted, it seemed to be missing the textural quality and perfume one
would expect to see. Potentially particularly good (17). From 2014
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses
There is a notable depth of rich cherry fruit and blossom on the aroma. It is elegant, pure and
spicy with a satin-smooth, fine texture and fluid energy. Deliciously juicy finish with lovely
intensity and length. Certainly Fine. (18). From 2015.
Musigny
Lifted and pure with high toned red fruit aroma. Very streamlined with intense fruit on the palate.
It is elegant, very fine, tight and vital. Excellent persistence. Nudging into very fine (18.5-19)
from 2015.
Stockists
UK/USA:
Agents: Pol Roger Portfolio
15

Maison Dujac Fils & Pere, Morey-Saint-Denis
Jeremy Seysses remarked that in September the temperature dropped to 10 degrees in the day
time so the rot did not progress. It saved what was left. There was some coulure in 2008 which
was good because it meant looser bunches and more open and aerated bunches. “If we had
close knit bunches, we would have had very little left. 2008 yields are as low as 2003 at 23hl/ha
in the grand cru… because the clusters were light and we took off about 25%.”
Despite the rot “it was ripe, concentrated and pure. This is a vintage where the choices were
made for us by nature.” He compares this with 2009 when the vintage is so good they have
many choices, but this sort of vintage brings with it the pressure to make something great. “The
2008 is good or every really good. I am super pleased.”
“One of the strange things,” says Jeremy “is the very late MLF.” None have been racked and not
everything has gone through the MLF for the négoce or the domaine wine.
He points out that malic acidity was high, but not especially. Higher than in recent years, but not
when you go back to other decades. He points out the whole cluster they use precipitate a
certain amount of acidity as well, so he cannot figure out what the MLF late. “Malolactic is a
mystery.”
Jeremy thinks it has some elements of the 1993 vintage, but points out that in general most
people make better wine than in 1993 and the wines will be more precise.
SM
Gevrey-Chambertin
Attractive dark fruit, slightly spicy and with decent intensity, perhaps a little masked at the
moment. Bright and attractively direct and energetic. Very attractive to good. (14.5-15) From
2012/13
Morey-Saint-Denis
Rounded wine with a bit more weight to the middle palate. Violet fruit, slight spice, attractive
generosity and packs a bit of a punch on the finish. Very attractive to good. (14.5-15) From
2012/13
Chambolle-Musigny
This has not finished its malolactic.
High toned red cherry fruit. Zesty with lovely energy and fine tannins. Floral note which rides
above the fruit and carries to an appealing finsh. Good (15). From 2012/13
16

Maison Joseph Faiveley, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Bernard Hervet, “The 2008 is a very late picking vintage. There is something in the fruit,
especially in the reds, which is a little bit cool. But many love something more cool, so for some
the 2008 will be more classic than 2007. The acidity is higher than in 2007. The tannins are
higher than 2007, but not the same and the main difference between 2007 and 2008 is the fruit
and the distinction and purity of the fruit, which is better in 2008. However,” he admits, “it is a
matter of taste. “2007 is very charming, sensual and easy, while 2008 will divide the Burgundy
lover. Some will love it as it is very classic and pure. Both have distinctive terroir.”
Bernard is a fan of the 2008 white. “They have acidity and concentration and are classic at a high
level. They will need a long élévage. We are very optimistic. Some with prefer the less rich 2007.
The 2008 has richness, acidity and purity.”
But he points out that it is not an easy vintage in which to succeed and in this respect is like the
2007. “Some got it right others missed it.”
He thinks the Côte de Nuits was better than the Côte de Beaune. Pommard he thought
performed best. “Volnay was so-so and of course it had hail which Pommard did not and has not
for the past 5 years.” Faiveley only bought Pommard from the Hospice de Beaune auction, no
Volnay.
The reds have all finished MLF here. Some started in November, while others finished in July.
The malic was twice the average level here. The tartaric was a little higher than average, but
normal for an early October picking. “It was not a warm vintage!”
They like to pick the grapes late. Bernard remarks “In 1996 and 2002 the ripeness was artificial.
The north wind concentrated the grapes in sugar and acidity so the grapes not completely ripe,
with the exception of Gevrey. However,” as he points out, “People are prepared to take risk now
and wait in a way they were not in 1996.”
SM
I tasted the 2008 reds and Sarah A. tasted the 2008s whites.
Reds
Côte Chalonnaise
Mercurey, La Framboisière
This has pretty, vibrant cranberry fruit on the aroma. Lovely juicy attack. There are some grippy
tannins though. Quite tight tannins and tart on the finish. An attractive, zesty wine. (14) From
late 2011/2012.
17

Mercurey, Clos Des Myglands
Spicy, lifted aroma. Rather exotic, but lightly so. The attack is sweet and generous and the
tannins sit well in the wine. The fruit middle palate has vibrant red fruit and decent breadth. Very
attractive. (14.5) From late 2011/12
Côte de Beaune
Monthélie, Les Champs Fuillot
Talcy aroma which is scented and soft. Gentle attack and appealing fullness before it tightens up
to become focused, tight and ever so slightly edgy. Quite a long and slightly mineral finish with a
hint of darkly floral minerality. Very good. (16) From 2012
*Blagny, La Pièce Sous le Bois
Just 200 cases and 80% is sold in the French market. “We picked very late,” says Hervet. “We
never have rot, because it is windy and we have natural aeration. We can have patience here
and wait.”
Perfumed and lightly exotic with a high tone. It is scented with rose petal on the attack. The
palate has delicate tannins and clear, high wired acidity. It is fluid and gently wafts across the
palate. There is a subtlety and sensuality and it finishes with haunting perfume. Top notch,
Particularly Good+. (17.5) From 2012
Côte De Beaune, Clos de L’Ecu
This was parcel to be picked in the harvest, because it has red soil and a Southern exposure and
is therefore very sunny.
Rich, sumptuous and juicy. The tannins are broad, quite meaty and full grained. There is a good
breadth of palate. It is not a sophisticated wine, but honest in a full and forward and just slightly
rustic way. Good+ (15.5 ) From late 2012/13
These two wines are from the Matrot in Meursault. They have established a relationship with
them so that essentially this land will be run as part of the domaine and in 2009 will be labelled
as such, although the 2008 will go under the négoce label.
Volnay, Frémiets
The fruit is red, crunchy cranberry and zesty. It pounces on the palate with good energy and the
tannins are finely grained and tight. It has a high toned, pure, channelled finish. Possibly a little
lean. Very good+. (16.5) From 2012.
*Pommard, Rugiens
Dense and intense. Slightly dark and brooding with plenty of fruit on the attack. The tannins are
dark and surprisingly svelte. It has plenty of structure and matter and a smoothly rounded body.
There is no rusticity here. The finish is dense with a hint of liquorish. Probably Fine. (17.5-18).
From 2012/13
18

Côte de Nuits
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Chaignots
There is a soft exuberance of fruit. It is rather loosly textured. However it has a lovely long fruit
driven finsh. It is quite a straightforward and accessible. Very Good to Particularly Good. (16.5-
17) From 2012
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Damodes
Pure and much more restrained with bright blueberry and raspberry fruit. It has a scented palate
with a touch of more mineral. The tannins are fine and woven in the wine. It has a tightly-wired
core cloaked in very clear fruit and the finish is high toned and long. Particularly good+. (17.5)
From 2013.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Porêts Saint-Georges
Rich, luscious loganberry aromas. Generous fruity attack with succulent fruit, yet in the middle
palate there is structure and some firmer, more rugged tannin. Nudging into Particularly Good.
(17) From 2013
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint Georges
This has a subtle nuances combined with firm structure. There is an engaging clarity and purity
of fruit. It has a more airy high toned lifted character coupled with sveltely smooth tannins. A
wine of substance, elegance and a sophisticated tannic structure. Fine+. (18.5) From 2013
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos des Issarts
“It is a very difficult wine to make,” remarks Hervet. “It is difficult with the barrel for it is a very
transparent wine. It is not a classic Gevrey-Chamberin. If you make one mistake it destroys the
balance of the wine.”
“It might be a soil to produce white if we could. Chardonnay could be successful in this place, but
of course it is not allowed. There is only 15 cm of soil. It is a wild, rough and white soil with
chalky stone.”
High toned, lifted aroma. It is a lightish, pure and vibrating wine. It has slivers of cool minerality.
The tannins are fine and the character reserved, but not ungenerous. It is has a piquant acidity
and slight spice on the finish. Particularly Good+. 17.5. From 2012/13
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers
Rich, gamey, intense and low toned. This has concentration and is deep with juicy, dark plum
character. There is a compact depth and rich fruit in this wine coupled with Gevrey austerity. The
finish is assured. Fine. (18). From 2013/14
Clos De Vougeot
This is rather a seductive Clos de Vougeot. There is luscious fruit. It is rather harmonious. The
tannins are firm but fine-grained. It is an accomplished fine wine, but not an inspirational grand
cru. Fine. (18) From 2014/15
*Echezeaux
Excellent depth of fruit on the aroma. Silky sensuality and rippling energy to this wine. The
tannins are shammy-leather-smooth. It has polished muscularly and a long and languid finish
with proper grand cru intensity. Nudging into very fine. (18.5-19) From 2014/15
Latricières-Chambertin
19

This has a high, acidity driven backbone and unmasked mineral nervousity. It is not a wine with
much flesh. It is quite austere with a fine boned, quite light and airy quality. It has lovely mineral
length, but it is a little lean on the substance and the flesh. Fine. (18). From 2014.
*Mazis-Chambertin
Here there is the extra level of finesses. There is much more extract to support the framework.
The finish is long, substantial and fleshed with compact spicy fruit. The tannins are more refined;
supportive, firm and fine grained. It has proper grand cru intensity. Fine to very fine. (18.5-19).
From 2014
*Chambertin, Clos De Bèze
This has am enticing wafting high floral perfume. Subtle, sensual and textural. Excellent intensity,
delicately nuanced, yet substantial. Marvellously long and scented finish. Very Fine+ (19.5). From
2014.
For the Mazis-Chambertin and Clos de Bèze Hervet uses oak which has undergone 5 years of
drying. He is convinced this delivers a notch up in terms of quality of tannins and elongated
tannins and that this is the way forward for the grand cru. However these barrels are twice the
price at E1000 for a barrel. They also used them for Les-Saint-Georges and the Rugiens.
Clos de Corton
A broad, muscular powerhouse of a wine, but also notably sensual and seductive for Corton.
There is strength and vigour coupled with tannins which are undeniably sophisticated. The wine
has proper grand cru power and great substance. A very good Corton. Nudging into Very fine.
(18.5-19). From 2014
“We have made a big effort to civilize the finish on this wine,” remarks Hervet. “We have used
gravity, oak vats in fermentation, long fermentation and we have extracted a little bit less. We
give it the best élévage. We are very selective and very demanding of our cooper.” If a cooper
makes a mistake with just one barrel, woe betide him.
20

Sarah Abbot tasted the whites:
Whites
Bernard Hervet: “2008 is a late-picked vintage, but there’s a cool quality to the wines. I’m a big
fan of the 2008 whites; they have good acidity and concentration. They are very classic, but
richer than the 2007s. But some producers may have missed the opportunity that was there in
2008 – this was really not a straightforward vintage.”
Bernard explains that they are now using one-third to half new oak from a cool, slow-growing
source in the Vosges. The grain is notably tight, and the toast super light. He feels that, with this
combination, they have hit upon the perfect environment for maturing fine Chardonnay.
Chablis
Chablis, Vaillons
Very clean and correct on the nose, with notes of lemon sherbet and chalk. Zesty but ripe on the
palate, with subtle white-peach richness. Lively, intense and rounded, with good length and a
lovely, juicy finish. Very good + (16.5). From 2014.
Chablis, Preuses
This is tight and very restrained on the nose, but with intense slatey minerality on the palate.
Attractively silky and sinuous – there’s a lovely tension here between freshness of fruit and
richness of texture. Very emphatic on the finish, with lively, mandarin-scented acidity and a
focussed, saline length. Fine to very fine (18.5). From 2017.
Chablis, Vaudésir
Intense and expressive aromatics, with notes of sea-spray, iodine and ripe but crunchy apple.
Long and lively on the palate, with good concentration and a sustained, ripe, mouth-filling finish.
Fine to very fine (18.5). From 2017.
*Chablis, Les Clos
High-toned, expressive and very pure, with notes of dried herb, mint and blossom. Full of
energy: a zesty attack leads onto a rich honeyed fruit core interwoven with tangy, citrussy
acidity. Good drive to a really long finish – ultra dry but still succulent, with tight, layered
persistence. Very fine (19). From 2017.
Côte Chalonnaise
Montagny, Les Las
Broad, diffuse aromatics. Zesty and delicately peachy on the palate, this has a ripe fruit, with
notes of grilled apple, and an attractively supple body. Bright, juicy finish. Good (15). From 2012.
Mercurey, Clos Rochette
Real appeal and interest on the nose, with appetising minerality and savoury, zesty fruit. Sleekly
textured, with enlivening acidity, and a long, ripe, brown-sugar finish. Good to very good (15.5).
From 2012.
21

Côte de Beaune
*Meursault, Blagny
Delicate vanilla-scented aromatics – this is subtle and high-toned. This has a particularly
appealing texture – silky and supple, but notably light-footed and elegant.
There’s a seam of tingling mandarin acidity running right though it. The finish is long and lifted,
with notes of silex and smoke. Fine+ (18.5). From 2015.
Meursault, Charmes
Assertively smoky, toasty aromatics. On the palate this is savoury but very ripe with a grilled,
brûléed character. Obviously rich and slinky, with lashings of impact and weight. If you like your
Meursault full, seductive, voluptuous and toasty you’ll love this. Picked up by some nice acidity on
the long, smoky finish. Fine (18). From 2014.
Puligny-Montrachet, Garenne
Restrained but floral, white-peach aromatics. This has a very refined texture and a sense of
delicate richness. Very nicely integrated vanilla scented oak throughout. Acidity is enlivening and
nicely balanced. Good length - builds to a very scented, nervy finish. Fine (18). From 2014.
Puligny-Montrachet, Referts
This is much more expressive on the nose than Garenne, with deeper, broader aromatics of
vanilla, smoke and honeyed fruit. On the palate it is bold, broad and intensely mineral. Nicely
integrated oak is sweetly scented and well-absorbed, even at this stage. Excellent length and
firm, driving acidity. Fine (18). From 2015.
*Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres
On the nose this is restrained but layered and intriguing: very mineral, but also floral, and with
notes of grilled white peach. It is tight, savoury and pent up on the palate. Good concentration
and density throughout. Very long and very tangy – this needs time. Fine to very fine (18.5).
From 2015.
Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
Intriguing, alluring aromatics – restrained, but delicately floral and savoury. Lots of power on the
palate. This has impressive richness, evident concentration and a voluptuous, mouth-coating
texture. A big, bold character. The finish is warm and well-sustained, with notes of iodine and
graphite. (After the tasting, Bernard reveals that there is 13.8% natural alcohol here.) It’s all in
balance though. Fine to very fine (18.5). From 2016.
Bâtard-Montrachet
Deep and expressive on the nose, with an intensely saline, savoury character. On the palate this
is steely, focussed, linear and intense, with a flinty, mineral acidity. Single-minded and elegantly
forceful. Long and penetrating with good concentration and richness, and effortless absorption of
new oak. Very fine (19). From 2017.
*Corton-Charlemagne
Honey-scented, and wild on the nose, with notes of dried grass and herbs. On the palate this is
lean and attractively austere, with a finely grippy texture. It has a fine, linear structure with very
good length and pure, zesty refreshing acidity powering throughout. Very good Corton-
Charlemagne. Fine to very fine (18.5). From 2016.
22

Stockists
UK:
USA:
Maison Marques & Domaines
Wilson Daniels Ltd.
23

Maison Camille Giroud, Beaune
David Croix was barely 23 years old when he took on the responsibility for wine-making at
Camille Giroud: “I graduated and ten days later I was here”.
The venerable mini-negociant had lacked investment in the preceding twenty years. “I burned
700 barrels when I got here”, says David. “But there were treasures too: the library of old wines
here. We still have Le Musigny 1949, for example.”
“My approach is to find growers who already have the right idea – that is, the right principles for
quality. I won’t be considered just as the negoce who gets the crappy fruit. Our approach is
classical and very simple: – just put the best fruit in the tank and take it from there.”
This means, most of the time, 100% destemmed bunches, intact berries, and extraction via
punch-downs.
In general wines are not racked: “We want to keep the energy and fruit and freshness”. David
thinks that 2008s will probably have more ageing potential than 2007, and will probably shut
down after bottling.
These were assured, sleek wines with pristine fruit and excellent terroir definition. David Croix
has a sure-sighted, unforced confidence. I mentioned how much I liked the wines to Ben Leroux
[for whom David worked at Clos des Expeneaux], who told me: “of all the younger guys I’ve
worked with, David is the one who I could see immediately just ‘had it’. He’s a really great winemaker.”
SA
Red Wines
Santenay
This has a muted nose, but is fresh, pure and nicely crunchy on the palate. Summer pudding.
Good length and supple, juicy freshness on the finish. Very attractive (14). From 2011/12.
*Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Beaune
Very appealing on the nose. Broad, with fresh but ripe fruit and supple tannin. Unforced fruity
style with very pure Pinot character. Very good for this level (14). From 2011.
Maranges, Le Croix Moines
Beautifully textured, with very pure red fruit, and attractively chalky tannins. Succulent core.
Lovely appetising finish, with good length and intensity. Not at all rustic. Very good Maranges
(15.5). From 2012.
Beaune, Avaux
Ripe but fresh, strawberry scented aromatics. Succulent, juicy, pure and defined. Broad and
expansive on the mid palate, with a pure, focussed finish. Good intensity on the length. Very
good+ (16.5). From 2014.
Beaune, Cent Vignes
Very smooth, lush, seductive texture. Beautifully pure aromatics - scented and floral. Sweet fruit
at the core. Very long and sustained. This will be really delicious, sumptuous Beaune. Particularly
good (17). From 2014.
24

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Crets
Appealing, broad aromatics of black cherry, pepper and spice. Sleek and supple on the midpalate,
but some good tannic bite on the finish. Good village Gevrey in a juicy, approachable
style (15). From 2012.
Vosne-Romanée
Restrained, mineral aromatics. Linear on the palate – much less fleshy than the Gevrey. But very
classic Vosne typicity, and nicely resistant, finely grainy tannin. Balanced by a subtly ripe fruit.
Very elegant, gracefully intense village Vosne. Good (15). From 2013.
*Corton, Clos du Roi
Very tight and shut down on the nose. On the palate this has densely layered fruit-soaked tannin.
It is deep, dark, fresh and pure. Tannins are firm and chalky but also very succulent. There’s a
lovely inky, graphite intensity on the finish. Deeply flavoured, really scented, long and intense.
Very fine (18.5). From 2016.
Chambertin
Muted on the nose, but immediately intense and forceful on the palate. Tannins are fine but fine,
and richly textured. This has an intense well of dark, black, bloody fruit. Nicely integrated new
oak on this wine – really perfumes the finish. Broad and muscular. Very fine (19). From 2017.
UK: Dudley-Jones Fine Wines
Stockists
25

Maison Benjamin Leroux, Beaune
Ben Leroux’s boutique negociant business is expanding. But it’s the number of different
appellations that is increasing: he continues to work with small to tiny quantities of high-quality
fruit from producers who share his vision, or who are willing to take his counsel. Now almost half
his growers are using organic methods. Lots of the old growers, he points out, have been organic
before the word was invented. It’s just a matter of traditional principles whose time has come
again.
“I can’t be the cheapest, because I’m paying for better than average fruit. The great thing here is
that I have a very good business partner (a businessman and wine-lover he met at a Berry
Brothers tasting in London). If I had to use the bank I wouldn’t be able to do this business -–
invest for the future like this.”
Ben feels that for his wines 2008 probably has the quality edge on 2007. But he is a great fan of
the earlier vintage: “I really love 2007 – I think they’re great wines. I think they will age well but
we probably won’t know because they’ll be drunk to early! That’s the reds. In Chardonnay I think
that 2007 is better than 2008; 2008 will be a bit more approachable”
Most wines have finished the malolactic fermentation (albeit some very recently) and have been
racked. Most will stay in the barrel on fine lees until Spring 2010, when they will be bottled. Ben
points out that this longer, less oxidative élevage is becoming more common in Burgundy. “There
is much less battonage now. It dissolves a lot of oxygen in the wine. This way [leaving the wine
on the lees] we protect the fruit but also get better extraction from the lees.”
With the exception of the Grand Crus the percentage of new oak does not exceed 30%. Ben is
using larger, 300 litre, barrels for many wines. The second year of ageing is usually undergone in
old oak, between 1 and 3 years old.
The business operates from a former Bichot warehouse and cellar just outside Beaune’s city
walls. He shares the cellar space to help out several “small negociants – it’s not all mine”. The
first job was renovating the cûverie, installing drainage, and sprucing up the cellar, which was
accomplished just in time for the 2008 vintage. There are the bones of a bright and graceful
tasting room, and even a smart cloakroom (sans door). On the day of our tasting the place was
buzzing with builders, painters and importers. Ben’s focus and indefatigable, cheery
industriousness doesn’t skip a beat, and even seems to inspire the builders.
Really nice wines here – unforced but structured, with great balance and typicité.
SA
*Bourgogne Blanc
Zesty, zippy and gently mineral. It has a very attractive core of fresh ripeness, and a very
appetising finish with a hint of richness. Very good Bourgogne (14.5). From 2010.
Auxey-Duresses
Broad, silky and toasty, with ripe but still fresh fruit, good length and savoury minerality on the
finish. Spot on village (15). From 2011.
26

*St Aubin, Dents de Chien
Attractive aromatics: ripe and honeyed but enlivened by a fresh fern-like character. Stony on the
mid palate, with sleek texture and a very refreshing mineral finish. This has good length and real
stony interest on the finish. Good+ (15.5). From 2011/12.
*Meursault, Vireuils
This village lieux-dit was previously labelled simply Meursault. Vireuils is at the top of the
Meursault slope, above Les Luchets. Its soils are rich in limestone and minerals.
Airy and pretty intense. The texture is sleek but not at all heavy. It is mineral, long, pristine and
freshly rich. Good to very good (15.5). From 2011/12.
Meursault, Narvaux
From this tiny, high vineyard Ben buys enough fruit to make no more than 2 barrels (600 litres) a
year. This was still crawling through the malolactic fermentation, and had been recently
sulphured. Unsurprisingly it was very muted, its character quite masked. But it had good intensity
and concentration, and good length on the finish. Good to very good. From 2012.
Puligny-Montrachet
This is a blend of 2 parcels which were vinified separately and blended a month ago. Expressive,
floral and sweetly mineral on the nose. Finely textured, with a core of delicate richness and an
upbeat, floral, mineral fruit finish. Graceful village Puligny (15.5). From 2011.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Baudines
Zesty and savoury on the nose. On the palate this opens broad and ripe, but then a tangy lemon
acidity threads through the palate. It is smooth, and diffuse. Opens out on the palate – rather
than focussing down – but the finish has good, wide and perfumed persistence. Particularly good
(17). From 2012/13.
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Embasées
Intriguing aromatics of roasted almonds and lemon zest. Opens very intense, mineral and tangy.
This has very good concentration. It is broad and generous, but held in by that tangy minerality
on a long sustained finish. Fine (18). From 2013.
*Le Charlemagne (Corton-Charlemagne)
This tiny production was vinified in a single 300-litre barrel of new oak. It was moved 6 weeks
into a four year old barrel where it will stay until it is bottled – straight from the barrel – in
Autumn 2010.
The nose is very restrained, and quite leesy. On the palate it has a notably sinuous texture, wild
minerality, and salty intensity on a long, rich finish. This is much more generosity than austerity.
Fine to very fine (18.5). From 2015/16.
Reds
Bourgogne Rouge
The grapes for this wine come from Saint-Aubin and Santenay. It has just been racked into tank,
and is obviously a bit shell-shocked. The nose is very dumb, but the palate has attractively pure
fruit, with supple tannins and a nicely dry, fresh finish. Attractive (14). From 2011.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune
In tank on fine lees. When bottled this will be blended, as usual here, with about 20% premier
cru to give it a boost. At the moment it is entirely village Savigny.
27

Fresh on the nose, with crunchy red fruit. Perfectly nice, polite, and supple, with moderate
intensity. Very attractive (14.5). From 2011/12.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Hautes Jarrons
Attractive red and black fruit on the nose. It has good, linear tannin, and a decently long, purefruited
finish. Good (15). From 2011/12.
Ben notes that in Savigny, the crop in 2008 was about half that of 2007.
*Volnay,
Really charming aromatics. This is scented with notes of strawberry, rose and fruit pastille. It has
nicely powdery tannin, with good fruit intensity. Very perfumed and with lovely persistence for a
village wine. Good+ (15.5). From 2012.
Ben explains: “This is declassified premier cru, because I didn’t feel the fruit was of premier cru
quality. I really like this cuvee in 2008, but in a way it’s not house style for me. I usually aim for
depth and more black fruit. But it just came out like this, and that’s OK.”
*Volnay, Clos de la Caves des Ducs
The grapes for this wine come from vines belonging to and tended by Jean-Charles Dureuil, Ben’s
right hand man, who first worked with him at Comte Armand in 2000. “I tell you, he’s a really
great winemaker” says Ben, “but he’s shy. He’d rather hide behind a vat than talk to you.”
This is svelte and sleek, with elegant intensity. It has an airy, mineral, dark fruit to it. Fresh, not
austere, but incorporeal. Lovely length and weightless intensity. Particularly good to fine (17.5).
From 2013/14.
Gevrey-Chambertin
This finished malo a bit later than the other reds, and still had quite a bit of free sulphur. Very
tight on the nose and palate. It has pure, black fruit and finely grained, ripe tannin. The finish is
very good, with notes of black forest fruit and smooth, disciplined tannin. Good (15). From 2013.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Allots
This comes from a 2 hectare plot of 55 year old vines. Ben explains that they have an agreement
to take all the fruit, and are in process of changing the way the vineyard is pruned in order to
reduce yields.
Dark aromatics of black, meaty fruit. On the palate this is linear – not at all rounded or plump.
Very classic, dark fruited Nuits with serious character and firm, nicely chalky tannin. Very good
village (15.5). From 2013.
Nuits-Saint-George, Les Thoreys
This small premier cru of 5.6 hectares is underneath Clos du Thorey. This is quite introverted on
the nose, but more expressive on the palate, with very pure black cherry and graphite fruit and
suave but structuring tannins. The finish is long and mineral, with sort of sweet and savoury fruit
character. Particularly good to fine (17.5-18). From 2014.
Mazoyères-Chambertin
This is being put through a more reductive élevage, and has been left on the lees, in barrel and
without racking, since it finished the malolactic fermentation. Tight and very muted on the nose.
On the palate it is tightly packed, with ripe but toned black fruit. This is structured, muscular, and
sturdy. Properly constructed. Long, dense finish. Fine to very fine (18-5-19). From 2016.
28

Clos Saint-Denis
From 2009 Ben is buying the fruit from this grand cru; in 2008 he bought the wine. Not his usual
modus operandi, but he says that the fruit, grown ‘old-style’ organic, is wonderful, and that the
wine is well made. Besides, he wanted to secure the contract.
This has lovely Morey typicité, with a mineral, scented intensity of floral and graphite fruit. On
the palate it has good focus, and a stony, straight intensity. The tannins throughout are super
fine, but supporting, and the finish is linear and elegantly intense. Very fine (19). From 2015.
*Bonnes-Mares
This is very alluring on the nose – it has a hauntingly nuanced, perfumed scent. The tannin is
very refined but secretly very structuring. Lovely finish with tangy intensity, a hint of floral
perfume, and a long, floral, dark fruited finish with a hint of menthol. Love this – will be very fine
indeed (19.5). From 2016.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Berry Brothers
Becky Wasserman
29

Domaine Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Denis’ son, Nicolas, is now working alongside his father at the domaine, having completed a
stage making Pinot Noir in New Zealand.
They began harvesting on the 27 th October. Denis describes the hard work needed to achieve
quality grapes in this vintage: “We kept yields low and did a green harvest to ensure that the
remaining grapes would ripen fully. And we had to do a very strict selection for both healthy and
ripe grapes.”
Malolactics were quite late this year, finishing around the beginning of September. They will
remain on the lees now until bottling in March or possibly April. The wines have evolved slowly in
this vintage, and Denis feels that it will be another 4 months or so before they really start to
show their final identity.
“For me, 2008 is a bit like 2006 or 1996 with it’s acidity. We look for elegance in our wines, not
extraction – wines that are ‘gourmandise’.”
I would say that they’ve succeeded – these are very pure, pristine with integrity and lovely terroir
expression.
SA
*Bourgogne
This is lovely Bourgogne: very pure and fresh dark fruit. Quite a lot of gas from the malo, but
beneath that is a refined, smooth texture and, above all, very pristine, very pure Pinot fruit.
Elegant and refreshing Bourgogne. (14). From 2011.
*Côtes De Nuits Villages
Opens with a clear, pure strike of red and black berry fruit. The core is nicely rich - understated
ripeness in here. Fine but firm tannins are not at all rustic. Good length and purity on a spicy, red
and black berry fruit finish. Supple and lively. Very smart Côtes de Nuits (14.5). From 2011/12.
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes
Restrained, but very correct, pristine aromatics of blackberry, red cherry and spice. Nice weight
on the palate – this has a lovely balance of fruit are freshness. Tannins are nicely ripe – with an
attractive bite – and are very well integrated into the fruit. Pure, lively and very juicy on the
finish. Very vibrant, elegant finish. I really like this. Ithas real polish for a village wine. Very good
(15.5). From 2013/14.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Corbeaux
Restrained but deep aromas of griottes and graphite. This is very structured on the palate, with
firm but clean-cut tannin, intense, elegant fruit and a scented, mineral length. Long and nervy on
the finish with a hint of smoky new oak. Deserves some time. Particularly good to fine (18). From
2015/16.
Charmes-Chambertin
This has alluring, layered but quite inscrutable aromatics of kirsch and very pure black fruit. On
the palate it has a striking energy, with inky, vibrant, fruit and tannins that are supporting and
firm but still athletically supple. This isn’t the biggest or boldest Charmes, but it has a refined
30

density and concentration to it, and beautifully precise fruit. Very long, fragrant, perfumed and
dense. Very fine+ (19.5). From 2016.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Berry Brothers; Wine Society; Howard Ripley
Martin Scott NY; Wines Unlimited; Cellar Door LA
31

Domaine Pierre Damoy, Gevrey Chambertin
The last malo here had only recently finished, at the end of September. “You needed to pay lots
of attention to the malo this year – they were really slow” says Pierre.
He describes both low yields and strict selection were essential: the former to achieve maturity,
and the latter eliminate unhealthy and unripe grapes.
Pierre started the harvest on the 4th October, and finished with the Bourgogne rouge on the
14th. “We really wanted that full maturity” he says.
The wines will be left now to settle naturally, without racking unless they become too reductive.
“I’ve not decided yet about bottling - May, maybe. These wines have had a much slower
evolution [than normal], so I want to wait and see. Perhaps we’ll bottle a little later than normal.”
SA
Bourgogne Rouge
We tasted two cuvées which together will comprise the final blend:
(From Fixin) Very bright and pure, with suave tannins and notable zesty intensity. Floral and
lively with very good length. Fresh acidity, especially on the finish.
(From Marsannay, and picked on the 14 th October) Ripe, broad, and plummy with a looser, more
grainy tannic structure. Ripe, assertive length with just enough freshness.
The final cuvée should be very attractive.
*Gevrey-Chambertin
Fresh, floral and violet-scented with ripe, suave tannin. Direct, fresh and focussed but not
austere. Lovely, pure-toned aromatics on the finish. This has a really punchy, energetic quality,
but retains a refinement to the tannins. Very good village (16). From 2013.
Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice
This is a negociant wine from a small quantity of grapes that Pierre buys in from a source whose
standards of vineyard management he knows and approves of. It will be bottled with the label
“Pierre Damoy”, rather than “Domaine Pierre Damoy”.
This has a lovely nose – violet, griotte, and smoky graphite. It is ripe but dense on the palate,
with an assertive tannic bite – more suede than velvet. Very juicy and pure, with notes of wood
smoke and intense blackberry and spice on the finish. Lots of gumption for a village wine (16).
From 2013.
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos de Tamisot
A sort of de facto monopole for Domaine Damoy: this vineyard is right behind the house and
they are, he says, the only domaine to keep their part planted with vines that date back to 1922
and 1945 (“the others have built houses on it”.)
Striking and appealing freshness and high-toned vibrancy here, with very floral, rose-scented
aromatics on the nose, through the palate and onto the finish. This has a sort of secret structure
– generous and scented on the attack, it reveals itself as very long, focused, and intense on the
finish. Old vine richness here. Particularly good (17). From 2015.
32

La Cabane
This is from young vines from Chambertin Clos de Bèze, planted in 2000. It has a tiny production.
“We don’t really sell it” says Pierre, “I make it because it amuses me”.
Expressive but very primary and unformed – pure essence of Pinot on the nose. Very frontloaded
and exuberant on entry. The finish is gentle, but pure. It is a lot of fun. Very good, in its
quirky way. From 2013.
Chapelle-Chambertin
From vines planted in 1947. Complex and layered aromatics – black fruit, lifted by exotic spice
and rich plum: this is ripe but defined on the nose. Beautifully suave, slinky tannins. This has a
graceful intensity on the palate, and a diffusing, head-filling scent on a long finish. All whirling
around a rich, dense core of fruit. Generous but refined, and definitely fine (19.5). From 2016/17.
Chambertin Clos de Bèze
This is very tightly packed at the moment and will need a lot of time. Brooding, intense but
introverted on the nose. Racy but very intense and ample on the palate, with floral scent and a
rich core of ultra-dark inky fruit. The finish is super-long, with refined but densely packed tannin,
and very focussed, high-toned, perfumed fruit. Fine (19). From 2017.
*Chambertin Clos de Bèze Fouillerand
This is a small cuvée from an area (a modest hillock) within the Damoy Clos de Bèze which,
Pierre observed, yields wine with a consistently distinctive character. The wine is not made every
year, and he has yet to receive final confirmation that he can use the ‘Fouillerand’ name.
On the nose this is strikingly perfumed and alluring – rose petal and blossom. Very silky, hightoned
and balletic, this manages to be intense but weightless. It has a subtle, delicate aromatic
intensity and stunning minerality. This is ultra fine, nuanced and mysteriously powerful. The
100% new oak here is completely absorbed – such is the richness. A lovely paradox and an
outstanding wine (20). From 2016/17.
“The vines here look the same, the grapes look the same, but they taste completely different.
And the wine they give is always more fine, light and airy” explains Pierre a bit later.
Chambertin
From a François Frères Barrique: Introverted on the nose, with dark, shadowy fruit. This is ultra
tight, dense and substantial. Ripe and rich, but very physical and muscular, with lots of extract, a
dense, uncompromising structure and firm oak tannins on the finish.
From a Hermitage Barrique: This has a more expressive perfume and is more supple on the
palate. It’s powered by a striking freshness and minerality – and is also far less gripped by new
oak. The finish is enormously long, stimulating and uplifting, but still with that dark, inky ultra
concentrated richness. Very fine to outstanding (19.5). From 2017.
UK: Loeb; Flint Wines; Bancroft
USA: Frederick Wildman
Stockists
33

Domaine Claude Dugat, Gevrey-Chambertin
Since 2002 the Dugats have also produced wines under a small negociant operation called La
Gibryotte. Claude has three children grown-up children, and the family wanted to find a way to
develop a business that could support future generations, without splitting it up into unviable
parcels. Daughters Leticia and Jeanne, and son Bertrand are involved in all aspects of the
operation – both domaine and negociant – as Claude is keen that they should each have a
thorough understanding of production and commerce. As Leticia says : “We all work equally, in
every aspect of the domaine. My father doesn’t believe that some jobs are just for the men”
“She’s actually brilliant at driving the tractor” says Claude.
They harvested from 25th September. “At the very beginning of September the vintage looked
quite bad, with poor maturity. But then we had at least 15 days of cold wind and clear skies.
Those 2 weeks made all the difference.”
All wines had finished the malolactic fermentation and were in barrel. Here they will stay, without
racking, until they are bottled. Claude likes to preserve a little bit of carbonic gas at bottling – it
promotes the purity of fruit, and enables him to slightly reduce the dose of sulphur dioxide.
There’s no fining or filtration here, so they will bottle in February before ambient temperatures
rise and disturb the wines’ natural clarity.
The Dugat’s have made a lovely set of polished, purely fruited wines in this year. As Claude says:
“I think that 2008 will an under-appreciated year because everyone knows about the difficult
weather. But I really like the acidity in 2008 - it’s not aggressive and gives the wine vibrancy”.
SA
Négoce Wine – La Gibryotte
Bourgogne
Simple but bright and appealing red fruit on the nose. Very fresh and lively, with summer fruit
character, smooth tannin and a very zesty crunchy fruit. Pleasant, light, appley style of
Bourgogne. (13). From 2011/12.
Gevrey-Chambertin
Moderately intense aromatics of ripe, meaty, black fruit. Front-loaded, with juicy fruit, decent
length and intensity, supple tannin, and a very attractive spicy finish (14.5). From 2012/13.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier cru
Although this is very muted on the nose (a bit reduced at the moment), there is fresh, black fruit
hiding in the palate. Tannins are velvety and very nicely balancing. The finish is long, delicately
mineral and pure. Not as defined as the domaine premier cru, but with good intensity and very
attractive fruit. Very good (16.5). From 2012/13.
Charmes-Chambertin
Aromatics are youthfully restrained, but on the palate this has a lively acidity, juicy fruit (kirsch,
spice), and very fine, structuring tannins. Concentrated yet elegant, with a long mineral, intense
34

finish. This sells for considerably less than the domaine grand cru, but delivers really quite well.
Fine (18). From 2016.
Domaine Claude Dugat
*Bourgogne
Good intensity and focus, with really fresh red berry fruit on nose and palate. This has good
polish and intensity for a Bourgogne. Very svelte and nicely textured. Good freshness and juicy
succulence on the finish. Attractive (14). From 2012.
*Gevrey-Chambertin
Restrained but dark and attractively tarry aromatics. Notable weight and intensity for a village
wine. Tannins are juicy, firm and very appetising. There’s a lovely depth of elegant fruit – quite
for this level. This is very accomplished, velvety and welcoming. Very good (15.5-16). From
2012/13.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru
This is a blend of 2 premier cru vineyards: Craipillots and La Perrière. Restrained but deep
aromatics of black, spicy fruit. On the palate this has tension and density, with good complexity
of scent, texture and acidity. Particularly lovely finish: succulent, firm, very ripe yet pure, and
with a suggestion of freshness. Particularly good (17). From 2015.
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques
Introverted but very mineral nose, with hints of dark, brooding fruit. Tight and structured. Lively
strike of pure, kirsch and mocha scented fruit, with fresh but not aggressive acidity. Vibrant but
pretty tight on the palate with really lovely tannins: velvety, polished, and really soaked in all that
dense, pure, pristine fruit. Muscular and focussed on the finish, but still with that notable
generosity of fruit and scented. Fine (18). From 2015/16.
Charmes-Chambertin
Restrained on the nose. Elegantly intense and very suave on the palate; there’s a lovely textural
interest to this wine. Tannins are layered, dense – firm but really satiny. The fruit is tightly
compacted on the core, and the finish is headily intense – like a concentrated blackcurrant confit
with a lifting, mineral tail. Fine to very fine (18.5). From 2016.
*Griotte-Chambertin
Expressive and high-toned aromatics on the nose. Pacy, light-footed and intense on the palate.
Striking energy, purity and minerality, with graceful, rippling tannin. Very long, not round, but not
austere either. Hugely elegant and layered - diaphanous and complex. Very fine. Very fine (19).
From 2016/2017.
Chapelle-Chambertin
Dumb and closed down on the nose - this is giving nothing away. Dense, tight and compacted on
the palate, with a dark, deep, well of ultra black, primordial fruit. Firm but still succulent tannins.
Attractively dry quality on the mid palate. On the finish this is super long, with a whiplash of
acidity and a half-smile of floral perfume. Fine to very fine (18.5). From 2016/17.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
contact the agents Howard Ripley
Robert Kacher Selections.
35

Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin
Jean-Marie Fourrier comments on the vintage and other things:
“The alcoholic fermentation was slower, as was the MLF. The pH and the acidity were high and
to degrade the malic, it took the bacteria a long time. But it is very important as we have lost the
aggressive acidity. The pHs were 3.0. Some of the malolactics are still finishing.” He hds moved
the wine from the barrels into tank to give them a kick start as some are more active than others
and the cellar will get too cool soon. Additionally Jean-Marie doesn’t think it will be good to age
the 2008s too long in cask. “This year I am considering to bottling in January or February rather
than March.”
Analysis: “The acidity was like the 1996 in the proportion of malic and tartaric. It is a vintage
which has very nice purity.”
“We reached 11.7-12.5 on average, so the sugar level was reasonable. The challenge was not to
remove botrytised grapes, but to take out the fruit which was ripened on one side and not on the
other. This unripe skin means less colour and tannins. We removed 20-30% on the table.”
“There was no point in over extracting. It wouldn’t make sense. I prefer to make a wine to
drink.”
Extraction: “It was the opposite of 2003 with that vintage’s excess of ripeness. In that vintage
our best friend was the cold. In the 2008 our best friend was the heat. The fruit came into the
cuverie at around 8 degrees and it was 3-4 days before anything started. The colour was difficult
to extract. It is always more difficult to heat up a solid.”
Fortunately Jean-Marie had his new winery with insulated small stainless steel vats. He was able
to use warm water in the double skin of the vat to help start the fermentation and the extraction.
“I tried to keep it at 34 degrees when the sugar had finished.” (After fermentation the
temperature would naturally drop). “I kept the vats at 34 degrees - just to resemble nature, to
keep the ambience.” He did pigeage 2-3 times a day. Pump over is never used here. It spent 16-
18 days in the vat. “The good thing when you heat the volume at the beginning is the push it
gives to the yeast. 33-34 degrees is the best temperature for the extraction of polyphenols. If I
hadn’t given it this boost, it would only get to 30 degrees and this would not have had the same
extraction of polyphenols.”
“I want to extract, but knowing what to extract and when to stop, this is the interesting thing
about this vintage. There is a beautiful and fragile balance. We need to gain the silkiness, but not
to allow the wine to dry. But the most important thing for me is to avoid bitterness.”
Tannins: “I am tempted to speak of the tannins of the 2004, but without the greenness.” He sees
a similarity with the texture of the 2004s. (Jean-Marie is connived that the greenness in the
2004s, as a general observation for Burgundy, may be attributed to sulphides. “The greenness of
2004 was about oiduim and the greenness comes from the sulphur used spraying the vines. This
sulphur is locked into the berry, but can not be measured in the grape at harvest and if there is a
cold maceration…..and more sulphur is added in barrel and again at bottling, in the end it
reaches over 20mg/l.” This is Jean-Marie’s theory.
In 4-5 years it will give lovely wine, but I worry after this. It has always been my belief (whatever
the ripeness of the vintage) that we are not God and we cannot replace a lack of sun or light. We
cannot make up for the sun. No you must make the most of the character we are given. So I
36

don’t push the extraction and nor do I think you can hide the vintage behind new oak.” Jean-
Marie is staunchly agains the use of new oak, (as has been discussed before). He replenishes his
barrels every 5 years which means his wines receive 20% of new wood each year.
“The lovely side of the vintage is the pure fruit.” It will be a shame to pass by the 2008, for the
2009,” remarks Jean-Marie.
These wines had just been racked a day or two before and have not fnshed MLF.
SM
Morey-Saint-Denis, Clos Solon
Perfumed aroma. Red and berrish. The palate is cool, quite reserved with fine tannins and a little
bit of grip. Fresh on the finish. Maybe a little lean, but it has just been racked and has not
finished malo. Attractive. From 2012.
Chambolle-Musigny
This has floral and inviting notes. Juicy attack, very fine, light and airy. The palate is light and
tight and has juicy fruit and acidity on the finish. Slightly sappy finish. Very attractive to good
(14.5). From late 2011/12.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Echezeaux
90% through the MLF.
This village Gevrey has a dark floral and slightly medicinal note. Vibrant, peppery and straight. It
is quite a light wine with a high line. Very attractive+ (14.5). From 2012
Gevrey-Chambertin
This has only gone through 10% of its MLF.
Somewhat stemy on the nose. There is some tension and a streamlined vibrant core. The tannins
are fine and talcy textured. Very attractive to good. (14.5-15) From 2012.
“I prefer to have a spine which is a bit thin, but the tannins are fine and the balance is
respected,” remarked Jean-Marie.
*Vougeot, Les Petits Vougeots
Dark nutmeg spice. Soft attack to a lightly rounded body. There is a hint of coffee and mocha
and a warm slightly exotic floral character. Zesty acidity and a lovely streamlined finish. Good+
(15-15.5) From 2012.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Gruenchers
This premier cru has finished its MLF and is racked. Supple textured and softly fruited with light
silky tannins, which are finely grained. There is flowing energy. Light raspberry fruit. A light
Gruenchers, perhaps a little insubstantial for premier cru, without the slight muscle one might
expect from this part of Chambolle, however it is nicely done. Very Good+. (16.5) From 2013.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cherbaudes
70% through the MLF and there is some apply malic grip.
Dark fruit, slight spice, bare and bright. This is some grip and lively bite to the finish. A zesty
light, tight wine with energy and a slightly mineral finish. A modest premier cru. Very good. (16)
From 2012
37

*Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Goulots
The most northerly and highest premier cru of Gevrey. 80-90% through the MLF.
Vivid red cherry fruit aroma. It is tight and focused on the attack, racy across the palate with
engaging tension. Lovely ripe cranberry fruit. This has a more serious structure than the
Cherbaudes and juicy fruit with more depth. There is a note of florality on the finish. Particularly
good. From 2012/13
Jean-Marie’s apple pie analogy: “You can make an apple pie with moderately ripe grapes and add
as much sugar as you want to it, but it will not add more taste to the apples. This is what it is
like for a vintage which is less ripe. We have so many things we could do to change the character
of the vintage, but we should respect it.”
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux
80-90% though the MLF. This vineyard is just below Les Goulots and the soil has more iron
content.
Darker, slightly lusher aroma. A fruity, slightly broader, weighter palate, well-knit, softly compact
and creamy textured and fresh on the finish. Particularly good. (17) From 2012/13.
Jean-Marie does not put his wine into competitions. His are not the sort of wines which are
showy enough to stand out and he does not want to make them so. He made this decision back
in the Nineties when so many wines were being made for impact with high extraction and new
wood. He characterises the 2000s as a decade in which growers have come back in search of
more elegance. His quality gauge for a good wine is its drinkability…
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Combe Aux Moines
50-60% though its MLF and it carries the malic well. This was planted in 1928 in an amphitheatre
of rock, which was a quarry. “It is very hard for the roots to get through the rock,” comments
Jean-Marie.
High toned focus, pure and intense. This is tense and streamlined. It has a dark, smooth granite
minerality. This has the most structure and depth of the three premier cru situated up slope in
the north of the viilage. Nicely defined. Particularly good to Fine. (17.5-18) From 2013.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques
Juicy, fruity with an attractive lusciousness on the aroma. Mulberry fruit attack and slight
perfume on the palate which has singing vitality. Fresh and lucid with fine-grained silky tannins.
Bright long finish with edge of minerality. Fine. (18). From 2013.
*Griotte-Chambertin
Perfumed aroma with a hint of raspberry confiture. Silky textured, flowing and sensual; This
ripples elegantly across the palate, delicate, yet intense and shot with light. This is a refined,
graceful Griotte. Fine to very fine. (18.5) From 2014.
“I just want to respect the soil,” remarked Jean-Marie when we discussed this wine after tasting.
“I do not want to transform the Griotte to the big grand cru, which is expected of Gevrey-
Chambertin. I want to be respectful of the terroir. You should be able to make a grand cru with
elegance and femininity and which is not judged for the size of its muscle.”
.
“For me Griotte is a vineyard from Chambolle which has landed in Gevrey. It is on chalk, (the
name is derived from crai) so you should find purity and elegance. If you respect this soil you do
not want to make a bit structured wine. It is more like the Musigny of Gevrey.”
38

Stockists
UK:
USA:
John Armit Wines; Gauntley’s of Nottingham; Goedhuis & Co.; Raeburn Fines Wines;
Howard Ripley; Seckford Wines; Stone, Vine & Sun; A & B Vintners
Rosenthal Wine Merchant.
39

Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin
They started the harvest on the 25 th September. “There was a lot of work to get the right level of
maturity. The rendement was very small. I kept 5 bunches per vine for good maturity,” remarks
Arnaud Mortet. “The sugar was 12 degrees and the skins were good. The tannins were very
round.”
“The 2008 is very Pinot Noir and very Burgundian. We have forgotten this style of vintage with
2003 and 2005. We can learn a lot from this vintage in terms of fruit and elegance. The 2003 is
not this. The 2005 great vintage, but we must keep it 10 years to get rounded tannins. 2006,
2007 and 2008 are good vintages. Burgundy should not have 3 months of sun in summer. We
need a bit of rain and cool for balance and equilibrium. The 2008 was hard work, but afterwards
the results are very interesting.”
Arnaud continues thoughts about the vintage. Since 1996 in Burgundy we have more methods
for working -for receiving grapes. Today it is difficult to make bad wine.” His grandfather was
convinced that the 2008 would have been dreadful if he had been making it 30 years ago. “I
prefer a difficult vintage,” remarks Arnaud. “It is more interesting. When it is too easy we do our
job and the wine is good, but in a vintage like 2008 we work, work work and when we see the
results, we are pleased.”
Arnaud is now working carefully with the tannins. “My new work is with the tannins. I want more
elegance in the wine so I do less pigeage and I prefer to pump over to have rounder tannins. In
2008 I made just 5 pigeages per wine. For example with the Fixin I used pigeage at the
beginning, as this wine can be ‘rustic’ and then I usd remontage afterwards. With other wines it
was the reverse.”
“I have changed the triage and now have very good equipment. I have also changed the
destemmer so that I am left with only the whole berry. This de-stemmer works very slowly so the
berries are in tact when they go to the tank. I searched for this destemmer for a long time.”
“I do not want to make the same style as my father. I like his wine, but I want to make my
style.”
Clearly he confers with his mother as they have similar palate. “My mother prefers a more
elegant style. We have the same taste.” He added. “I really like the wine at Rousseau and I
would like to make grand cru in this style.”
Lots of the malolactic had not begun. Arnaud will move the wine into tank “I like the malolactic to
be late as it keeps the freshness and I like it to be very long. We win structure and keep the fruit
fresh.”
The style has changed here. These wines have an elegance and satin tannin structure which is in
part due to the vintage, but also reflects a clear stylistic change for the domaine. Arnaud is
making the style of wine he loves.
SM
40

*Bourgogne
This had 4.5 g/l of malic acidity, but Arnaud comments that it is always acidic in this place North
of Dijon, “on a plateau with calcareous soil at the altitude of the Hautes Côtes. There is just 10
cm of earth on top of the mother rock so it always has high acidity. It is good because it keeps
the freshness after the malolactic.” (The MLF has not begun in this wine).
Gorgeous red fruit. A really bright aroma. It has a burst of crushed red fruit on the attack. Lively
and juicy with soft, supple tannins a fresh and zesty finish. Top notch Bourgogne. (14) From
2011.
Marsannay, Les Longerois
Half way through the MLF
Warm perfume and mulberry fruit aroma. Rich and sweet on the attack. A real explosion of fruit.
Very rounded with super supple tannins and lively freshness to the finish. Delicious. Good. (15)
From 2012
Fixin
Half through MLF
This has a wilder high aroma, forest fruit and tangy. High toned palate, bright and clear, slightly
more robust tannins, not rugged, but just less refined. It has really good vitality. A good Fixin.
Good. (15). From 2012
Arnaud comments that after MLF the Fixin will be much rounder because the soil is very
calcareous and the minerality and the malic combine to make the wine seem less generous. “It is
always like this at the beginning. It should be easy and round and after bottling it will be more
elegant. This appellation is very interesting for me. It is not a ‘big’ appellation but it has very
good potential.”
Gevrey-Chambertin
Arnaud had one cuvée of Gevrey-Chambertin, but now here has three village wines. There is
Gevrey Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes and En Champs. The En Champs was made separately from
2007. The MLF had not yet started.
Blueberry fruit aroma. Saturated fruity attack. Very juicy middle palate with a slightly liquorish
edge. It is zesty with fresh acidity (not just malic). The tannins are supple-smooth and it has a
lively bite to the finish. Good. (15) From 2013
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes
The MLF has not begun. It is a blend of parcels which average 70 years.
Dark, deep hedgerow fruit. It is compact on the attack. Well knit tannins which are suede-soft.
Lovely intensity; smoothly textured and certainly very dense to the finish. Good to very good.
(15.5-16) from 2013/14
“Arnaud comments. It is always very dense like this. We get very small berries with lots of
millerandage and the skins are dark and thick.
Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs
This is under Champeaux and Arnaud has one hectare. The vines are 90 years old. Lots of
millerandage. The soil is very calcareous. “I felt it was very different and that I should separate it
out.” The MLF had not begun.
A dark and spicy aroma with a hint of graphite and slight gun smoke. Decisive attack. It slices
onto the palate. Vigorous and slatey. Keen acidity with a more savoury and mineral palate. Dark
fruit, fine tight-knit tannins and a very long finish for village wine. (This will soften and the fruit
come more to the fore). Top notch village wine. Very good. (16) From 2014
41

Arnaud has nearly six hectares of village wine and decided he wanted to divide them. “The first
has fruit and is good for restaurants. The vieilles vignes will need one or two years more. The En
Champs is more for keeping like a premier cru.”
Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru
A blend of parcels from Petite Chapelle, Cherbaudes, Bel Air and Champonnets.
The malo had finished. Rich aroma which is slightly spicy. Very juicy attack. Soft and succulent
and very nicely rounded with a plump middle. It satin-smooth and lifted with freshness on the
finish. Elegant. Particularly Good. (17-17.5) From 2014/15
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux
65 year old vines. The MLF had just begun
This has a talcy aroma; perfumed with a waft of chalk. It slips elegantly across the palate, very
bright and mineral, pure and vital. Lucid fruit. It shimmers. This is lovely. Fine (18) From 2014/15
In 1996 Arnaud began working with a horse in this vineyard. “You couldn’t get in with the tractor
so we had to use herbicides even though my father stopped using them elsewhere in the 1990s.
I didn’t want to use them so the only way was to use a horse to get into the vineyard. This work
has elevated the minerality.”
Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques
Just beginning the MLF.
Intense morello cherry aroma. Glorious fruit on the attack. Very fluid and sweetly flowing wine
woven with freshness and energy. The tannins are satin and ripple ribbon-like across the palate.
It is very harmonious. Certainly fine. (18) From 2014/15
*Chambolle-Musigny, Les Beaux Bruns
The MLF has finished.
Dark rose petal perfume. It has a depth of scent across the palate entwined with velvet softness.
A deeply textural and sensual wine. It flows serenely to a scented and smooth finish. Fine (18)
From 2014/15
Clos De Vougeot
The MLF has finished. Upright aroma. Yet the palate is harmonious, dense, yet not at all heavy.
It has gliding movement, slow and rich and the tannins are polished and enrobe the palate. A
long palate which finishes on deeply succulent fruit. Fine++. (18.5) From 2016
“I use very little pigeage for Clos de Vougeot. I search for elegance. For me grand cru is not big
wine. I search for elegance and fruit. For Clos de Vougeot it is difficult, so I harvest very ripe and
then treat it very naturally.”
*Le Chambertin
The MLF had pretty much finished. This will be bottled in May and it will take on more matter.
Dark, compact and spicy; quite a disinclined aroma. A mineral attack to a dark, smooth graphite
palate, finely knit, very pure and precise and well defined. This is not a big wine. It is disciplined,
but not hard. It certainly shows finesses. The finish is very long and very fine. Very fine indeed.
(19-19.5) From 2017
Arnaud may have enjoyed making the 2008s but he was also very excited about the 2009s and
showed me a few. This is what he had to say.
42

“The 2009 was very easy. The summer was good. We had rain in mid July, so we had some
difficulty and treated for mildew, but it was a good season. In 2009 the maturity is great. We
have never seen this level of maturity. My father never saw this maturity. I looked in his record
books. It has better maturity than 2005s. My grandfather says he has never seen anything like it.
The sugar is like 2003 and the acidity like 2005. The tannin maturation was excellent. 2009 will
be a great vintage. In style it is a blend of 2005 for structure and 2002 for elegance. The tannins
and fruit are very ripe and it is a big wine with acidity and lots of elegance. The tannins are crazy
now, so round.”
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Domaine Direct; Goedhuis; Richards Walford; Anthony Sarjeant
Martine’s Wines Inc.
.
43

Domaine Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin
“It was quite difficult because of the weather,” remarks Eric Rousseau. “The beginning of
September was rainy until the 14 th , but afterwards we had the North wind all through the day as
well as during the night and the skies were clear.” They did a lot of selection. This was, as
always, in the vineyard. Normally they produce between 60,000 and 70,000 bottles, but in 2008
it will be 30% less. They began the harvest on the 24 th September
The MLF here finished in June and they racked in July. They will bottle in March and April.
“I think the analysis is the same as 1996 with the same acidity and the sugar,” remarks Eric.
“The tannins were different though. The tannins of 2008 are not very hard.”
“It is not a vintage to keep a very long time. It will be better to drink while it still has fruit, not to
keep it for a long time. It is most interesting for the fruit and the acidity. A vintage to drink
young. Drink it before the 2007s. The 2007 and 2008 are very different and the 2007 will keep.”
I could star practically everything. The wine here is exceptional.
SM
*Gevrey-Chambertin
Dark and high fruit aroma. Suede smooth attack and lovely sensual texture. Gentle and deeply
fruity. Engaging wine. Lovely clear blackberry, bramble fruit with a really juicy finish. Plenty of
fresh acidity on the finish. Delicious. Very Good. Top touch village Gevrey. (16) From 2012
Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaut-Saint-Jacques
Perfumed aroma with dark cherry fruit and floral notes. Very sweet attack. A little plump in the
middle. Engaging purity and energy. There is a firm, dark mineral core accentuated with fresh
acidity to vivid finish. An elegant wine. Nudging fine. (18). From 2012/13
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers
The vineyard is over 50 years old. This is a steeper slope and more east facing, while Lavaut is
colder, cooled with air from the Combe de Lavaut
Darker and gripper. There is a firm, tight structure. Lovely vitality, which is channelled and direct.
It has a dark core threaded with smooth graphite minerality. The tannins are fine, silky almost,
but there is tension. A lovely fresh finish. Firmly fine. (18 ). From 2013
Charmes-Chambertin
Aromatic, warm perfume with a hint of peony. Sweetly supple and seductive with suede-soft
tannins. There is a juicy character to the fruit. It is charming and ripples harmoniously and gently
to a long and flowery finish with a lift of freshness at the end. Not especially profound, but
delicious. Fine to Fine+ (18.5). From 2014
*Mazis-Chambertin
Dark aroma of small forest fruits; nicely intense and focused with a touch of spice and dark
chocolate. Taut on the attack. This has lovely tension and vibration. It is coiled, not big, elegant
indeed, but there is a vigour and purpose. A direct finish. The tannins are fine-gained.
Streamlined elegance with depth of focus. Fine+ to very fine (18.5-19) From 2014
44

*Clos De La Roche
This is luscious, generous and rich. There is a ripe plumy expressiveness and a hint of spice;
cinnamon and nutmeg. This extrovert wine has a generous body, full, deep and gorgeously juicy.
This expansive, even recumbent character is underpinned by firm structure and lovely freshness
on the powerful long finish. Gorgeous Clos de la Roche. Very fine. (19) From 2015
Ruchottes-Chambertin
Mineral and savoury aroma. Upright. Some austerity to the attack. The shape is channelled and
the profile stony. It has a rather ridged and paired down structure. The acidity accentuates the
stony character. While it may not be so forgiving on the palate, it shows itself on the finish which
is saline and impressively long. Not a big wine, but quite distinguished and great sense of terroir.
Fine to very fine. (18.5) From 2015
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques
In contrast to the last wine this has 60% new oak.
Lovely richness and flesh on the aroma. Ripe morello cherry fruit. Gorgeous attack, full, fruity
and juicy. Rounded middle palate with curvy edges and smooth tannins. A rich body, not heavy,
but concentrated and certainly succulent. A hint of sappy grip and cinnamon. Energetic, fruit
driven finish woven with fresh acidity and at the end, a hint of cherry blossom. Fine to very fine.
(18.5) From 2015
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos De Bèze
100% new oak here
Scented aroma reminiscent of a mid summer rose garden. It flows seductively onto the palate,
lusciously soft and open, yet this is deceptive for there is coiled power here. This has grand cru
dimension and depth. This underlying strength of structure is enveloped in a heady rose scent
and fleshed with deeply, opulent fruit. A powerful and splendid finish. My favourite. Outstanding.
(20) From 2016/17
Chambertin
All in new oak
This is has a discreet and upright aroma. Much more reserve. This is a dynamic, channelled wine
with a fine architectural framework, excellent precision and execution. Superb definition to direct
and powerful finish. A wine of great complexity, substance and elegance with the vintage
characteristic of smooth tannin and delicious fruit. Outstanding. From 2016/17
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Berry Bros; Lay and Wheeler; Goedhuis; O.W. Loeb & Co.
Frederick Wildman & Sons.
45

Domaine Jean & Jean-Louis Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Jean-Louis explains: “2008 was a cool vintage and a very long season: it started very early and
we began to harvest at the very end of September. This was quite unbelievable, because we
have not had to harvest in October for 10 years.”
He also stresses the importance of selection this year, due mainly to the levels of botrytis. “We
have selection of grapes at three stages: when they are cut in the vineyard, on a selection table
before the destemmer, and again after the destemmer.”
They reduced the proportion of whole bunches in 2008, up to a maximum level of 30%,
compared with a normal percentage of 50. Jean-Louis is planning a longer élevage than normal
for his 2008s to give them the chance to put on a bit more weight: “I think we’ll bottle in March,
April. It depends…I’ll see how they develop.”
SA
Red Wines
Marsannay
This was racked last week, and has not quite finished malo.
Primary aromas of strawberry and strawberry coulis on the nose. The palate is dominated at the
moment by carbonic gas and the crunchy, appley character of malic acid, but the finish shows a
promising purity and freshness, and a hint of strawberry fruit. This will be very attractive (14.5).
From 2012.
Gevrey-Chambertin
Fragrant and floral beneath quite a lot of carbonic gas. Lively red cherry and spice on the attack,
with enlivening acidity and a core of warm, ripe fruit. Fresh but actually quite lush and
welcoming, especially on the palate and a juicy finish. Good village (15). From 2013/14.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Ostrea
Tight and restrained on the nose. Inky and very supple on the palate with a very pure, focused
intensity – violets and graphite – over a very ripe, griotte-scented core. Silky and refined tannins
here, and a long, perfumed, high-toned finish. Supple, elegant, intense. Very good (15.5). From
2013/14.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Petite Chapelle
Very ripe and expressive on the nose, with a scented, floral character. On the palate this opens
all velvet and allure, with a sleek texture. Becomes much more linear on the finish, with finely
grainy tannin and a direct, high-toned minerality. The length is focused and direct, with
composed cherry-stone aromatics. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2014/15.
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Prieur
Hugely charismatic, expressive aromatics of kirsch and floral spice. On the palate this is very
vibrant and intense, with fresh dark and red fruit and a hint of spice. The length is focussed and
very long – this has quite an assertive, sinewy style. Those tannins are pretty grippy, especially
on the attack, and well sustained. They finish with lovely elegant dryness because the fruit
sweeps back round again. Powerful, in a controlled way. Hugely scented length. Fine (18). From
2014/15.
46

Chapelle-Chambertin
Expressive and much more obviously fruity than the Latricières. Very ripe and open, with much
more obvious fruit on the nose – spiced plum and cherry confit. On the palate it’s a bit more
monumental – less finely articulated – with evident concentration, suedey tannin, and real
warmth. All packs up densely on the finish – very good concentration here. Fine+ (18.5). From
2016.
Latricières-Chambertin
Deep but introverted aromas of black cherry stone. Initially this opens with very sleek and velvety
tannins, which become very firm and finely grainy on the mid palate and finish. This is very
tightly packed, quite terse, but all on the finish, which is wonderfully floral, with notes of violets,
and ink and graphite minerality. Very fine (19). From 2016.
*Le Chambertin
The nose here is intense but brooding – has that indefinable sense of depth. Kirsch, cherry stone
and a touch of menthol. Quite a ride on the palate – loads of breadth, energy and pent up
power. Firm but very finely structuring tannin. Utterly soaked in deep, dark, almost citrussy fruit.
Pacy, strong, dynamic, muscular - but also generous. Very fine to outstanding (19.5). From
2016/17.
Stockists
UK: Contact the agents Corney & Barrow; Champagne & Châteaux Ltd.
USA: Classic Wine Imports; The Stacole Co.; USA Wine Imports, NJ.
USA: Contact Patrick Lesec, France.
47

Domaine Dujac, Morey-Saint-Denis
Jeremy Seysses considers the single most significant factor which has made a differnce in
Burgundy wine today is change in the use of herbicides. Many vineyards are now healthy,
properly balanced and working. “Vines don’t have to suffer They have to work and now you can
see that.” At Dujac they have applied to become a certified organic in the vineyard. This should
take three years and come through in 2011.
SM
White Wines
Jeremy comments that there was not much botrtytis at all in the white Côtes de Nuits. These
whites are crushed before pressing to give a bit of skin contact.
*Morey-Saint-Denis
Bottled in early September.
Attractive savoury, nutty aroma. Broad, smooth palate with a savoury mineral note. Very
distinctive. I like it. Excellent food wine. Now onwards. Good (15).
*Morey-Saint-Denis, Mont Luisants
This will be bottled in the spring. “I have become a fashion,” admits Jeremy. “I have decided to
leave this in tank for a second winter.” It will be bottled at the same time as the reds. “I talked to
Jean-Marc Roulot about this and he feels that this practice makes the wines more compromising
in youth and gives them a polish and I am happy to follw this advice.”
Intense nutty, savoury aroma with a citrus top note. Vigourous palate, tense and quite broad
with savoury characters. ‘Sucking stone’ wine. I love this cool minerality. It is attractively sappy
and appetising. Very good indeed. (16). From 2011
Red Wines
*Morey-Saint-Denis
Good depth to the aroma with notes of dark morello cherry. Succulent attack with dark fruit,
lightly spiced. Slight grip to the tannins and quite a broad palate. There is some density and a
savoury, sappy stone on the rather assertive finish. Good++. (15.5) From 2012/13
Chambolle-Musigny
This is only 25% through its MLF and a little difficult to read.
There is an attractive lifted energy to the palate. It is lively and fresh with an appealing purity
and vivacity. The tannins are fine and talcy. It should be rather elegant. Potently good to very
good. (15.5) From 2012
Jeremy remarks that they have been working on the tannin to be lighter in the extraction. They
are doing less punching down. They have also added some fruit from Les Argillières in the
attempt to become less ‘north side Morey-style’ Chambolle and take on more of the typical ‘south
side’ Chambolle character.
48

Morey-Saint-Denis, Premier Cru
This is finishing its MLF now.
Dense with a slightly robust character. It is fresh, has spicy, purple fruit with a lift of violet
perfume. Slightly chunky and lightly grippy tannins. Quite an assertive grunt to the finish, but it
lifts nicely and finishes bright and fresh. Very to Particularly Good (16.5-17). From 2013
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Combottes
Reduced so no aroma note. (Jeremy remarks that they see more reduction since they have
become organic –something to do with the nitrogen cycle he thinks.)
This has a gorgeous texture and energy; flowing and rippling. Shammy-smooth tannins. Dark,
deep sensual fruit with slight spice. Lovely purity and intensity. Rather a refined Aux Combottes.
This glides to an energetic and elegant finish. Fine. (18) From 2014/15
Charmes-Chambertin
This is very reduced.
On the palate there is notable depth of fruit. There is good density and breadth. The finish is
long and lifted with fresh acidity. There are some very good components, but it is not really
showing as well as I think it should. To taste again.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Gruenchers
Upright, cranberry fruit, lifted and high toned. Seductive, juicy-fruit attack attack. Some firm and
dense tannins here though and quite an assertive structure, but enveloped in this generous,
rounded mulberry fruit. Saturated fruit finish. Particularly Good+ to fine (17.5-18). From 2014
*Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaumonts
The parcel of Beaumonts acquired by the domaine is now in good shape for the medium term.
The vines were probably planted back in the 30s. In recent years it had been pushed too hard for
an old vineyard and so they spur pruned it to build up its reserves. It is now showing the signs of
revitalisation. It lies beside their other parcel, although unfortunately the rows do not go in the
same direction, which makes it difficult to work, e.g. to turn the tractor. They are now selecting
some material for massale selection from these old vines, which indicates how highly they
consider it. It faces east, so it gets the morning sun, but is first in shade.
Depth and richness to the aroma. It is quite battened down, but has notable density, richness
and succulence to the fruit. There is muscular power, some quartzy minerality and firmly defined
edges. It has a long, dark fruit and mineral finish, nicely channelled and direct. Fine. (18) From
2015
*Vosne-Romanée, Malconsorts
Spicy, juicy opulence to the fruit. Supple velvet attack. Richly textured with smooth, well honed
tannins; it is flowing and generous and underscored with bright acidity which carries to a rather
luscious, long, but fresh finish. Powerful certainly, but not heavy. Fine to Fine+ (18-18.5) From
2015/16
*Echezeaux
This was the first wine to be moved to biodynamics as they had virus issues. The vines were
suffering without much foliage, but the balance is much improved.
This is streamlined and understated. It flows beautifully. It is satin-smooth, yet has tension
woven into the streamlined ribbon-like structure. Lucid dark fruit with hint of violet. Long elegant
finish. Delightful Echezeau. Fine to fine+. (18-18.5) From 2015
Clos De La Roche
A substantial wine, muscular and broad. It has density, depth and grippy tannic structure. The
fruit is deep and spicy, but reserved. It is the framework which is on display at the moment. It
49

has hunkered down. The finish is powerful and assertive. Fine+ to very fine. (18.5-19). From
2016/17
Jeremy comments, “This used to be more upfront immediately, but now it is more reserved.”
*Clos Saint-Denis
Expressive and sensual. It glides across the palate, supple and toned. There is damson, dark fruit
with some delicious nuances; warm floral notes and a hint of peony fragrance. From the full, but
undeniably refined palate, the finish stretches - impressively long and streamlined and entwined
with dark mineral. Excellent finish. Possibly Very Fine. (19) From 2016
Bonnes Mares
Dark, spicy and slightly brooding; it shows excellent breadth. There is furled vigour. The tannins
have sleek muscularly and are cloaked in rich fruit. The finish has slight grip, is exceedingly long
and has a real depth of sweet fruit. Suave. Very Fine. (19) From 2016/17
Chambertin
Architectural structure, bold, upright and strong. It is powerful, but harnessed. The edges are
precise; chiselled. Excellent sustained finish spliced with stately minerality. There is an intense
purity of fruit, which at the moment shows only at the very end of the finish. All very
deconstructed at the moment, but potentially very fine. (19). from 2016/17
*Romanée Saint Vivant
Purity and florality. This slips discreetly onto the palate, blossomy, petally, delicate yet intense. It
is fine, yet assured. It shimmers with iridescence acidity and quivering minerality. Very pure, very
fresh and very well sustained. Very fine+. (19.5) From 2016
Stockists
UK:
USA:
O.W. Loeb; House of Townend
Chambers & Chambers; Wilson Daniels.
50

Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Morey-Saint-Denis
Virgile Lignier explains: “It was very important to avoid over-extraction in this vintage, so we did
a longer cold maceration – 8 days instead of [the usual] 4. And then I did very little pigeage,
really just pump-overs. Making this vintage needed a lot of attention – it wasn’t easy to make
good wine. If your yields were high and your extraction too heavy, you made very green, austere
wines. I think there will be two extremes in this vintage – the good wines and the bad. It’s not
like 2007, where quality differences are more gradual.”
Virgile also emphasised the importance of selection in 2008, although here the concern was
heterogeneous ripeness rather than rot, which was not a major problem. He deselected about
one-third of the harvest for unripe grapes. He picked slightly earlier than many domaines, with
grape sugars for most vineyards between 11.8 and 13%. “It wasn’t super-ripe. I don’t like that in
my wines.”
Up to 30% new oak is used in the premier crus, and 50% in the grand crus
All wines had been racked into cûve, where they will rest until bottling in February and March.
Wines are all now labelled under the same ‘Lignier-Michelot’ label; the wines from non-domaine
fruit are distinguished by the name ‘Virgile Lignier’ on the back label. As Virgile says “It’s much
simpler, and easier for our customers to understand.”
SA
White
Bourgogne Blanc, Cuvée Axelle
Attractive minerality on the nose and palate. This has zesty, characterful fruit, with notes of
almond, fern and ripe citrus. Stylishly accessible and characterful (14). From 2011.
Red
*Bourgogne
Grapes (both domaine and bought-in) from Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny. Muted on
the nose due to a little reduction, but on the palate this has a lovely fresh acidity, with zesty and
attractive acidity. Very pure red crunchy fruit is well-balanced by fine light tannin. Cool, very
refreshing fruit. Very attractive and appetising (14). From 2011/12.
Chambolle-Musigny, Vieilles Vignes
This is from 3 parcels in Chambolle with vines around 50 years old. The nose is very pure, and
appealing, with notes of redcurrant and summer pudding. Strikingly fresh on the palate, this is
very composed, with good focus and surprisingly rich black fruit on the finish. Tannins are fine
and with good grip. Quite a gutsy Chambolle, with very good intensity for a village wine (15).
From 2012/13.
51

Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru, Cuvée Jules
Freshly scented and floral on the nose. This has a fine encompassing texture to it that opens out
from the attack. There’s a light tannic footprint but with building intensity, and fine, elegant dark,
stony fruit on the finish. Very good premier cru – it has real tension to it (16.5). From 2014.
Morey-Saint-Denis, En La Rue De Vergy
This village Lieux Dit is just above the Clos de Tart. The nose is very muted, and the palate quite
tight. This has slightly denser, grainier tannin than the other Moreys, and a very primary but
dense dark fruit. The finish has good length, freshness, and juicy dark fruit. Good to very good.
(15.5). From 2012/13.
*Morey-Saint-Denis, Vieilles Vignes
Very mineral, with good depth on the palate. Very correct, linear and mineral, with a hint of
cherry stone and mandarin zest. The fruit is precise on the palate, and the tannins nimble and
satiny, and gently driven. Black, lightly peppery, fruit reasserts itself on the finish. I really like this
– it’s stylish and graceful, especially for a village wine. (16.5). From 2013.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Cuvée Bertyn
Spicy, ripe but still fresh aromatics. This retains a zippy freshness over juicy fruit. Really charming
and supple, with scrummy, mouth-watering black fruit and an elegant ripeness on the finish. Very
appetising (15.5). From 2013.
Morey-Saint-Denis, Aux Charmes
Layered aromatics of dark cherry and peppery, spice. Glycerol-rich and smoothly textured – this
has a focussed attack that open onto a fine but generous mid palate, before tightening up for a
long, floral and mineral finish. Elegant and assured. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From
2014/15.
*Morey-Saint-Denis, Les Chenevry
Ripe, sweet dark fruit on the nose with a hint of spice. Very zesty on the attack, with a rich core
of black cherry and cherry-stone fruit, and an initial dark, primary ripeness. Layered density on
the mid palate, finely powdery and alluring tannin. The finish is long and dynamic, with a mouthwatering
minerality moving over for heady, aromatic fruit – dark chocolate and kirsch. Lovely,
supple, sure-footed and fine (18). From 2015.
Morey-Saint-Denis, Faconnières
Broad, spreading aromatics of dark berry fruit and prune. A punchy character – this has dense
tannin, and is quite monolithic, with concentrated fruit and a juicy, spicy, broad finish. Not so
delineated as the Chenevry but very good in a more obviously full-bodied way. Particularly good
to fine (17.5). From 2015.
Morey-Saint-Denis, Aux Cheseaux
This premier cru is a new wine from grapes purchased from “a very old vigneron – he’s even
more organic the Organic! So these vines have had a lot of sulphur, which meant there was very
little rot, and a very small crop of grapes with thick skins. So I vinified whole bunch – it was
really interesting for me to try this, because the grapes were very different to my own.”
Intensely aromatic, with very wild dark fruit, and a hint of dried herbs. Dense and grainy, with
fresh acidity and very good concentration on the finish. This is jerkier than the other premier
crus, and is not quite as elegant, but it has lots of guts and intensity. (17.5). From 2015.
52

Charmes-Chambertin
There is just one barrel of this, which comes from “a part of the vineyard which consistently has
lots of millerandage.” These grapes were picked at 13.5% natural alcohol, and were fermented
whole bunch.
Lifted and intense aromatics of kirsch and cherry stone, with a hint of spice. Really intense and
almost liqueur like, with a huge intensity of ultra sweet fruit. Tannins are initially ripe, then fine
but dry on the mid palate, before getting covered up again by a quilt of ripe, black, warm fruit on
the finish. Sturdy but juicy. Fine (18.5). From 2016.
Clos Saint Denis
This is a mix of domaine and bought-in grapes. Enticing, layered aromatics of violets and exotic
spice. Very mineral, fresh and nicely dry on the attack, with lively fruit and acidity on the mid
palate. This has a lightness of touch and real intensity: fine tannins have the a bite on the finish,
before the fruit whirls rounds and really elongates the length. This combines generous scent with
an attractively austere structure. Fine to very fine (18.5). From 2016.
*Clos De La Roche
Haunting but elusive aromatics – this is much more restrained on the nose than Clos Saint Denis.
On the palate this is elegantly perfumed, deeply scented, with a slumbering core of very rich dark
fruit. But the utterly seductive texture here is what really gets you going – caressing, supple,
elegant and head filling. The finish is intense but almost weightless, with really fine violet-scented
fruit and long zesty minerality. Very Fine. (19). From 2016/17.
Stockists
UK: Hayes, Hanson and Clarke; Gunston Fine Wines ; Genesis
USA: Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France for Polaner (NY) ; International Wine ;
Triage (Oregon).
53

Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny
“Rain made it very difficult to spray against the mildew,” remarks Ghislaine. “It was hard to
choose the right moment to spray and Louis was continually prepared to go into the vines to
spray even on Sunday to catch the moment.” They made a selection in July and August. “We
didn’t have a problem with rot, because we were attentive.” They started harvest on the 28 th
September and finished at the beginning of October
There are no changes this year in the cellar. Everything is destemmed. Ghislaine starts with
pigeage, just one or two and then moves to remontage.
The pH was about 2.9-3.10 at harvest with 7-8 g/l. “It has the similar acidity as 1972, between
this and the 1996.”
She thinks it is a little like 2006, but not so strict or severe. It has more fruit and fruit intensity to
balance the acidity. Ghislaine describes the sweetness within the fruit and also a sensuality which
was apparent even before the MLF. She also notes the wine was not mouth puckering before the
MLF, despite the high levels of acidity.
The most important thing for Ghislaine is to preserve the fruit, to show each terroir and not to
over influence the fruit in the winery. “Yes we have to make decisions, but we must be careful
not to over mange the wine.”
They are lucid, charming and fragrant wines.
SM
*Bourgogne
Clear, ringing raspberry fruit. Streamlined attack to a direct, fruity and lucid palate. The edges
are crisp and it has energy. Delicious. Very attractive. (14) From 2011
*Chambolle-Musigny
A blend of 10 parcels.
High toned ; vivid fruit aroma. Succulence attack. It is vivacious and has the richness of ripened
summer fruit. There is an intense sweetness and a depth of fruit in the middle palate. It is
piquant and with bright acidity and has plenty of verve on the finish. Top notch. (16) From 2012
Chambolle-Musigny, Aux Combottes
Dark soil with some stones. The soil is comparable with Beaux Bruns.
The aroma of warm strawberry fields; headily perfumed with flecks of low toned spice. It is
smooth on the palate. Rich, cloaking and subtle. Dense dark ripeness in the middle palate. Under
this channels a fine line of dark stone, which carries the finish. Particularly Good to Fine. (17.5-
18). From 2013
*Chambolle-Musigny, Les Chatelots
This is deeper and redder soil. It is actually quite far apart from the Combottes as Ghislaine’s
parcel is in the lower part of Aux Combottes and this Chatelots is just below the domaine.
Somewhat higher toned. Vivid raspberry perfume. Satin on the attack, then it tightens and
becomes more grippy. The tannins are fine grained and firm. There is a cool, stone, minerality
54

and peppery bite. The finish is long and piquant and taut. Good tension and vigour. Fine to
fine+. (18-18.5) From 2013
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Beaux Bruns
Ghislaine makes the comment that she likes this in a cool year, because it is more restrained and
the acidity is lively and supports the wine. In a warm year it can be very full.
Heady perfume on the nose, warmly scented and notes of white pepper. Satin-velvet tannins
with lush depth to the texture. It is quite bold with a sweeping broad palate of dark fruit. Vivid
acidity is woven in the wine and the finish is deep, but also very fresh. Fine. (18) From 2013/14
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Baudes
Dark, slightly brooding aroma flecked warm-toned spice. Strong, but cloaked attack, before it
focuses and battens down. This has richness, power and dimension for a Chambolle. It is firmly
toned with smooth muscularity and on the finish shows a grip and dark resolve. A vigorous, full
finish. Very good Les Baudes. Fine to fine+ (18-18.5) From 2013/14
*Chambolle-Musigny, Les Charmes
Superbly scented aromatic with white pepper and dried rose petal. Silky-smooth attack, supple,
rippling and gauzy. A blossomy, perfumed palate with rich and sensual fruit, underscored with
fresh acidity, which gives the wine vivacity. A hauntingly fragrant finish. Excellent balance of rich
fruit and freshness. Fine++ (18.5). 2013
*Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuées
The aroma is taut and high toned. It has an intense raspberry aroma. It is coiled and unsprung.
Lucid bright fruit; racy and pacy with wonderful tension and verve. Compact, well-knit texture.
Fine minerality with cool chalky tension on the finish. It has a saline minerality. Fine to very fine.
(18.5-19) From 2013.
If the Les Charmes is about perfume and fruit this is about energy and sappy minerality.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Véroilles
White flower perfume combined with a certain dark mineral spice. This is immediately more
inscrutable. It has compact, fine-grained tannins. It is piquant and spicy. There is plenty of verve.
Cool, sappy stately minerality, coupled with tension and vigour. Fine to fine+ (18-18.5). From
2013
*Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras
High, lifted and elegant scent. Cool mineral and white flower. It has racy, nervous vitality. Tightly
grained, bright and intense. It is very persistent and very refined. Saline minerality is the hall
mark on the finish. Fine to very fine. (18.5-19) From 2013.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Richards, Walford & Co – principal agent.
Neal Rosenthal Wine Merchant, NY.
55

Domaine François Bertheau, Chambolle-Musigny
François Bertheau has been making wine at the family domaine for 25 years. He is the 5 th
generation to farm the family vignoble, which has a decent chunk of old vines: the average vine
age is 40 years old.
François grows grapes using lutte raisonée principles and keeps yields moderate. Wines are
fermented at temperatures up to 33 degrees maximum, with gentle extraction, and undergo an
18 month élevage in predominantly old oak – the proportion of new is never more than about
25%.
Malos had all finished over the last few months; the wines will be bottled in February 2010.
These were attractive wines of pale colour, with gentle but spicy fruit and supple tannin.
They are – in the nicest sense of the word - old-fashioned, but well made.
SA
Chambolle-Musigny
Pleasant, soft aromas of red and black fruit. Sweet, supple fruit on the palate, with gently
refreshing acidity and soft, easygoing tannin. Pleasant village (14). From 2012.
Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru
A blend of 4 premier crus; the grapes are combined at the time of harvest. Attractive, ripe
aromas of black cherry. The tannins have an attractively supple, grainy quality. There is fresh
acidity on the finish, and decent length and concentration. Good+. (15). From 2013/14.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Charmes
Restrained on the nose. On the palate this has fine, quite grippy tannin, a sweet, floral fruit, and
reasonable focus. There is some rounded, spicy berry fruit on the finish, which shows a
reasonable intensity. Good to very good (15.5). From 2014.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses
This has notes of dried herb, spicy berry fruit, and a gentle floral character. On the palate it is
supple and attractively textured, with nicely dry tannins that spread out through to the finish,
which is quite long and a touch mineral. Good to very good (15.5). From 2014.
Bonnes-Mares
The nose has a light, perfumed quality, but is quite restrained. The palate shows reasonable
concentration, with dark, spicy fruit, supple tannins and a moderately long finish. Quite dense,
and has the broad, easy-going fruit which runs through all the domaine. There’s a nice little lift of
freshness and minerality on the finish. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2015.
Stockists
UK: A&B Vintners
USA: Kermit Lynch
56

Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils, Chambolle Musigny
Most of the wines here had finished malo, and had been racked 10 days before our tasting.
Harvesting began on the 23 rd September and finished on the 2 nd October, with Volnay. Potential
alcohols were between 12.5 and 13.5. About 15-20% of grapes were eliminated in selection.
Louis thinks he will bottle most of his wines in April or May; he feels that the fresh acidity of his
2008 warrants a longer élevage, and a cold winter will give more precision to the fruit.
Louis seems to have relished making this vintage, and the wines were consistently good.
“At this stage in their development the 2008 vintage reminds me of 1972. If they turn out like
that I’ll be very happy!”
SA
Bourgogne
From a parcel in Gevrey-Chambertin
Vibrant red and black fruit on the nose. Refreshing and appetising, with a core of sweet dark fruit
and a lively, gently suedey finish. Very pleasant (13.5). From 2011.
Côtes de Nuits Villages
This is still going through the malolactic, and therefore has a lot of carbonic gas, and the apply
flavours of malic acid about it. There is an attractive warmth of rich, dark fruit beneath, and a
good finish. Very pleasant (13.5). From 2011/12.
Beaune, Epenottes
This village wine is from 60 year old vines located between the border with Pommard and the
premier cru of Beaune Epenottes.
Very enticing aromatics of red berry, spice and vanilla. On the palate it is warm and broad, with
firm, diffuse tannin. There is a ripe, attractively grilled quality to the darker fruit on the palate.
Very hearty, and with very good substance for a village (15). From 2013.
Pommard
Very closed on the nose, but more intense on the palate. This has a lively quality, with juicy black
fruit and a persistent, juicy finish with surprisingly fine but supporting tannin. Not at all rustic
(15). From 2013.
*Volnay, Les Grands Poisots
This is very good. On the nose it has restrained but very pure aromatics – red cherry, red berry
and a hint of florality. Rounded yet energetic on the palate – fresh entry, integrated intensity of
fruit, fine tannins with just the right amount of resistance, and a long, fresh, mouth filling finish.
Good intensity for a village wine (15.5). From 2013.
Fixin
From 50 year old vines, located under the premier cru Clos de Chapitre in Fixin. Dark, restrained
aromatics. Opens with a fresh, lively strike and firm, mouth-watering tannin. Much more
expressive on the palate with heady black fruit. Gutsy and succulent, with a good firm finish.
Good Fixin (14.5). From 2012.
57

Chambolle-Musigny
This is pretty tight – initially muted aromatics develop on the palate into dark cherry, mineral and
floral notes.. On the palate this is very tight but balanced, with intense stony core and a fine
mesh of attractively dry tannin. Nice length and focus for a village wine – it has a really fresh and
lively style (15). From 2013.
*Gevrey-Chambertin
50 to 60 year old vines. Very attractive and appealing on the nose, with dark, spicy, roasted
aromatics. On the palate it has a lovely concentration and sense of richness in the fruit, which
really coat the assertive but ripe tannins. The finish is fresh, mouth-coating and juicily dry.
Good+ (15.5). From 2013.
Volnay, Les Angles
The vines are at least 35 years old. Muted on the nose and very dense and compacted on the
palate. Much tighter and more restrained, but there is premier cru intensity tucked up in here.
It’s all on the finish at the moment, which is intensely mineral and very fresh. Should be good
(16). From 2014.
Volnay, Brouillards
The nose is very layered and intense, with very fresh smashed red berry fruit and floral notes. On
the palate the initial tannic profile is very silky and smooth, with a very well-balanced gentle grip
on the long, mineral finish. Beautifully scented as well as very mineral on the long finish. A good
premier cru (16.5). 2014/15.
Volnay, Caillerets
50-55 years old. This is darker and more mineral on the nose than Brouillard. Tight: very straight
and linear with good concentration and firm but well balanced tannin – not exactly juicy, but
certainly well lubricated, and pretty refined. Loads of intensity here, especially on the long,
mineral, cherry stone finish. Particularly good (17.5). From 2014/15.
*Pommard, Fremiers
70 year old vines. This is initially restrained, but really opens out onto the palate with very
refined aromatics of black cherry stone and mocha. The tannins are initially suave and velvety,
but then build to a full, intense, succulent and structuring finish. Very scented and mouth filling.
Lively, dynamic, long and vibrant. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2014/15.
Pommard, Les Croix-Noires
Again, very fine tannins on the entry – very silky and refined. There’s less articulation of the fruit
here – it’s darker and riper, and more uncompromisingly concentrated. Very tight on the palate,
but the finish is ultra long, intense, tight and dense. I prefer the grace of the Fremiers, but this is
also a very good Pommard. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2015.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Evocelles
Savoury but tight on the nose. On the palate, also, this is very tight and closed, with spiky
acidity, concentrated but compacted fruit, and firm tannin. The finish has good length, and
intense red and black fruit. Good (15). From 2013.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Champonnets
Very dumb on the nose. On the palate, this is very closed. All the ingredients are there: high
acidity, good concentration, ripe fruit and firm tannin. It’s not singing at the moment, but
certainly has all components for a very good wine. Good concentration and depth on a sneaky
length. (16.5). From 2015.
58

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cherbaudes
This is expressive on the nose and explosively rich on the palate, with lively, dark, smoky mocha
and morello cherry fruit. Intense but dynamic tannin is really woven into the wine and the
succulent core of ripe fruit. Long, lively, forceful and exciting. Tannins and fruit really power
through to the finish. Potentially fine (17.5). From 2015/16.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pruliers
This has a particularly lovely nose: fine, enticing and exotically spicy. On the palate the tannic
structure is particularly refined. Initially silky on entry, with very pure, but ripe, sweet cherrystone
fruit. Mineral and elegant: very interwoven tannin, acidity, and fruit on the palate.
Unfurling to a long, elegantly intense finish picked up by fine tannins. Very coherent and
seamless. Fine (18). From 2015/16.
UK: Richards Walford – Principal Importer
USA: Neal Rosenthal
Stockists
59

Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Chambolle-Musigny
“A lively energetic and appetising vintage,” remarks Frédéric Mugnier.
Frédéric Mugnier makes the distinction between good weather and good weather for wine
making. “A good vintage for Burgundy not the same as what is good at the beach. More heat and
less rain are not necessarily better. If this was the recipe for good wine Burgundy would not have
the success it has.”
“What marked the season was the cool weather; the long season between blossoming and
vintage – about 110 days. I think it is a good thing to have an extended ripening period. A long
season brings finesse and elegance. However we are tending to have shorter seasons (although
there are recent exceptions) and with this we get much riper grapes earlier in the season. Where
the ripening season is too short the juice will have high sugar and low acidity and even if the
skins are dark, the tannins may be green and have a sharp character…..We are OK so far, but if
it goes beyond this point we could face the same problems experienced in warmer countries
which have grapes with high sugars, but struggle with phenolic ripeness of the skins….”
They began harvesting on the 27. th “We did a lot of selection in the vineyard. I do not have a
sorting table and I do not want one. It was similar to 2007 and not far from 2006. These three
vintages all have botrytis. The rendement was less than average, but not very low, with the
exception of Les Amoureuses, which was very low. In general Chambolle was certainly lower
than in NSG.”
“The spring was wet and cold; the opposite of 2007 and so flowering was not especially good
and we had some rain. We had a lot of millerandage, so we were expecting small berries with
thick skins, but with all the rain they swelled and were not especially small at harvest.”
“The climate changed around the 10 th September, which was the last day of heavy rain and then
it became dry and cooler with the cool wind. If it had stayed warm, with the water in the soil, the
rot would have spread, but the cool wind from the North and North/East stopped the progression
of botrytis.” There was more rain in Chambolle than in NSG where the fruit was healthier.
I asked if there was less rot in the higher better drained vineyards, as would seem logical. There
was in 2008. In 2007 it had been the opposite, as there was more rot on the higher
vineyard….because the were in advance of the lower ones and the rain came during the
flowering which affected the vines, which are very sensitive at flowering to botrytis.
Frédéric comments that the malic acidity was especially high in 2008, so the total acidity at
harvest was high, but mostly in malic. The final TA here was about average. “It is not like 1996
because the level of tartaric was much higher in 1996.”
The wines have a much more linear progression in the élévage, remarks Frédéric. “This happens
each year. I have a better idea of the finished wine. I didn’t have 10 years ago, but the wines
have become much more predictable in the way they develop. The evolution of the wine not
disrupted. This is probably because we have better and more consistent grapes.”
“I compare the 2008 with vintage of 2001, which I find exciting and like very much. While 2007
is an easy, integrated and soft vintage, it does not have secrets to reveal. The 2008 has more
facets and is more exciting.”
61

SM
All the malolactics were finished in July. The wines were racked a day or two before tasting and
Frédéric was concerned that the fruit was a bit depressed by the experience. They will gain more
flesh, but they were showing well.
*Chambolle-Musigny
Clear raspberry fruit; sweet and lucid. It skips lightly and brightly across the palate with lovely
acidity. It is very fresh and juicy on the finish with accents of bright mineral. A delight. Top notch
village wine. (16) From 2013
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuées
Perfumed, high toned with a hint of marzipan and slight spice. A very streamlined palate; lovely
verve and energy and very well defined. It has raspberry and floral notes with edge of almond
kernel. Really sweet intensity of fruit. It shimmers with minerality and on silky tannins glides
effortlessly in a long and linear stream through the palate. It is elegant and harmonious. Fine to
very fine. (18.5-19). From 2014
*Bonnes-Mares
Juicy dark black cherry fruit. Satin-smooth attack. It moves with presence and elegance, Lovely
fresh acidity and excellent precision. This is a very well defined wine and the finish is superbly
persistent, taut and assured. An elegant, complex and sleek grand cru. I really like Frédéric’s
Bonnes-Mares this year. It has finesse. Very fine indeed. (19.5-20) From 2017
Frédéric agreed. “I have had a difficult relationship with Bonnes-Mares, but I am happy with it
this year. A few years ago I was not so happy with it, but now with the age of the vines the
Bonnes-Mares has become more elegant as well as more complex.” (Bonnes-Mares is the only
vineyard in which Frédéric has relatively young vines.)
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses
High toned frangipane and floral aroma. This slips lithe and with grace across the palate with a
fine current of energy. There is a real intensity of fruit. It is very pure, vivid and vital. There is a
scented gossamer touch, underpinned with depth of streamlined fruit; very well defined. It is
pristine and complex. Very Fine+. (19.5). From 2016
*Le Musigny
Gorgeous perfume and floral intensity. It is hauntingly scented on the palate, yet has a precision
of taut structure beneath. It has silky, ethereal tannins. There is purity and luminosity of fruit
enhanced with bright energy. It has vibration. The superb finish is woven with an iridescence
thread…so long and intense and bright. This is outstanding. (20). A highlight of the vintage. From
2018.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, La Maréchale
Not racked, so a bit reduced on the nose, but the palate was open and expressive.
Lovely depth of dark fruit, satin tannins, appetising and juicy. There is real richness balanced
with vibrant acidity. Damson fruit with hint of violet. This is coupled with savoury, graphite
minerality which comes through on the appetisingly sappy finish. Vigorous and elegant. A wine
with plenty of personality. Fine to fine+. (18) From 2014/15
62

White
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, La Maréchale Blanc
A nutty, rich aroma. It is an architectural, densely structured wine with savoury, stony character
and just a hint of crystallised citrus. Appetisingly sappy, cold stone finish. Fine. (18) From 2013
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Georges Barbier of London; Haynes, Hanson & Clark; H & H Bancroft; Fields Morris &
Verdin; Howard Ripley; Tremayne & Webb; The Winery.
Martin Scott Wines Ltd.; Wines Unlimited; Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet,
France.
63

Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny
The wines here had all finished their malolactic fermentation quite late, around the beginning of
September. Christophe will keep them on their lees for another 2 weeks or so before racking
back into barrel and bottling in February or March, but “ after racking I won’t rack them back into
new oak as I want to preserve their natural, unforced fruit. I’m only racking them because there
is a little bit of reduction. If there wasn’t then I would leave them on the lees.”
“I think the vintage is delicious, with a very fresh touch. In fact if you look at numbers the acidity
of this vintage is not that high. I find the tannins discreet, not at all harsh. And I was a bit afraid
of that, given the vintage. I was a little concerned [at the beginning] about the type of wine we
could obtain.
Our fortune, really was in our misfortune. A cool August meant that the vines couldn’t synthesise
a lot of tannin. What there was, was just enough to be properly ripened when the good weather
came in September.”
These were strikingly pure wines of unforced vitality and wonderful nuance.
SA
Red
*Bourgogne
Muted on the nose but really vibrant and lively on the palate. Scented, with red fruit and ultra
silky, fine tannin. Good length and a touch of minerality. Lovely Bourgogne – one of the best I’ve
tried. Very attractive to good. (14.5). From 2011/12.
Chambolle-Musigny
Very delicate and delineated on the nose – high toned red cherry and floral fruit. A subtle
character on the palate with gauzy, fine tannin, a graceful freshness and a persistent airy zest on
the finish. Really lovely village wine. Very good (16). From 2013/14.
*Morey-Saint-Denis, Clos De La Bussière
Very muted on the nose. But lots of interest in the palate. Both intensely floral and mineral. This
has woven-in acidity, a fine but supporting mist of tannin, and succulent but really pure, pristine
fruit. Not exactly rich or even obviously ripe – just beautifully balanced. Very good weightless
intensity on a long, fresh finish. Fine (18). From 2015/16.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Combottes
This has always been part of the estate, but the fruit was always put into the village wine until
1999. Half was replanted in 1982. Christophe describes it as a stony place, but not solid rock, a
mixture of big rocks and clay. It is quite flat, but has the quality of the hillside.
Muted on the nose; really stony (red cherry stone) on the palate, with a tight structure, firmer
tannins and a really focussed mineral intensity. Not weighty, but quite grave and serious. Tannins
here are not exactly silky as they have more resistance about them – more shammy leather than
silk. Very coiled intensity on the finish. Fine (18). From 2014/15.
64

*Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras
This is very fine. The nose is restrained but layered. It is floral and scented, with notes of white
blossom, cherry, cherry stone and graphite minerality. On the palate it opens with really intensity
and tannins that are refined but dry – there’s a sense of delicate, intricate power. This has real
paradoxical intensity about it. Very long, ethereal, and self-assured. Fine to very fine (18.5).
From 2015/16.
Charmes-Chambertin
(This is reduced on the nose, and is due a racking.) There’s a lovely glycerol-rich intensity to the
texture. Tannins are super satiny and really quite slinky. The fruit is very compacted and
inexpressive on the mid palate. It’s all on the finish, which suddenly opens out with a floral, rosescented
perfume. Underneath the tight, primary structure here is a lot of scented, silky charm.
Very fine (19). From 2016/17.
Ruchottes-Chambertin
Heady and dark, with intense inky minerality. Very linear and deliberate: tannins are layered and
very delineated. They lead the way, trailing kirsch-scented perfume in their wake. Precise,
pristine and single-minded but not at all aggressive. Intense and deep on the finish. Very fine+.
(19.5). From 2016.
*Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses
This is intensely mineral and high-toned, with a vibrant freshness and notes of delicate spice and
bergamot. On the palate it is stony, slatey, coiled and tense. The finish is long and silky, with a
suggestion of richness on the finish. Very fine (19). From 2015/16.
*Bonnes-Mares
This is a star. Muted but profound aromatics – there’s a really deep well of black and red fruit
here. Pent up, with a more muscular tension than the Amoreuses. Tannins are firmer, more
obvious, and there’s an athletic, powerful, glossy character to it. The finish is very energetic, with
uplifting notes of dark fruit, spice and perfume. This is on a journey. Outstanding, definitely (20).
From 2016/17.
Le Musigny
Sweetly scented, with notes of violet, rose and almond. Rounder and more embracing than the
Bonnes-Mares. This opens onto the palate with lushness and a shimmering, alluring tannin, but
gets serious on the finish, where an intense minerality brings freshness, focus and length. Not a
powerful blockbuster, but very refined, pure and seductive. Very fine+ (19.5). From 2016.
This is made from old (virus-affected) vines which consistently produce very small yields of tiny,
concentrated grapes. Christophe used 100% whole bunches when making this wine, and no new
oak at all.
White
Corton-Charlemagne
This was racked just before the 2009 harvest from barrel into stainless steel. The vineyards are
from the Pernand-Vergelesses side and have a full western exposure. Intriguing aromatics:
mineral, citrus and (something riper) passion fruit. This has an attractive zest, a full, grippy body,
and a slightly wild, ripe fruit. It will be fined before bottling, which may well finesse the texture a
little. The long finish suggests that it will be at the least Fine (18). From 2015/16.
65

Stockists
UK:
USA:
John Armit Wines; Domaine Direct; Haynes,Hanson & Clark; Berry Brothers; Laytons;
Gerard Seel Ltd.; Justerini and Brooks; Tanners Wines Ltd.; The Wine Society.
Seagram Château & Estate
66

Domaine Comte Georges De Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny
François Millet comments on the season. “The North wind which came in mid September was a
miracle. It dried out the berries. We picked on the 27th September. This was relatively late and it
was cold, around 10 degrees. We had an interesting slow maturity. The vintage is ripe.”
“The fermentation took time to start. It fermented very slowly – like a cat purring. This was very
good for the vintage. It is so fresh. The slow fermentation has brought roundness and sucrosity,
combined with freshness.”
“I don’t like to speak of acidity. It is not acidity. It is fresh and even refreshing. Very classic, very
pure and very true. There is no aggressiveness from the acidity. The acidity is relatively high and
the pH low, but in the tasting this is translated into freshness and flowers. The flowers are airy,
flowers of the afternoon rather than the more acute flower of the morning and they have a role
in balancing the energy.”
“The MLF was slow. It started in June and July and finished in August and this brought a good
base. As if the cold of the vintage was continued through to the fermentation. It was a positive
reminiscence of the vintage. There is a true relationship between the wines and the climate in a
classic and positive way.”
“This is a pure fruit; ‘syrup’ of fruit, says François. The ‘syrup’ gives harmony to the vintage,
while the freshness enhances the minerality of the village.”
“I have an idea of the vintage as a painting. It would be a watercolour, as it is very sublime. It
just suggests. It is not obvious and it is so beautiful. So, you have a water colour impression –
but I don’t mean this in a way to suggest that it is diluted, but in the way the fruit and the terroir
is presented.”
“The vintage is very refined, especially if you see the level of the acidity. You cannot cheat with
this vintage. If you make a mistake it will show. This vintage is very difficult. You can hide
nothing. I see authority in this vintage. The 2007 is more candid.”
“I think 2008 is a marvellous vintage for terroir expression.”
SM
*Chambolle-Musigny
Glorious fruit aroma, saturated pure and intense. The attack is rich, but very fresh, deeply
succulent with juicy raspberry notes. The tannins are satin-smooth. It has an edge of marzipan
and almond kernel underscored with freshness and svelte minerality. The finish has intense
minerality. Top notch village wine. (16) From 2013
Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru
This is the young vines Musigny. From 10 to 25 year old vines.
Vivacious intense aroma. Cherry blossom. It has a youthful exuberance. The palate is slightly
spicy, very fresh and has lovely depth of fruit. Fine, taut tannins and cool minerality. Tension
coupled with vitality. There is delicate chalkiness and florality on the long, fine finish. Fine++
(18.5) from 2015
67

“Here you are starting to see the complexity of Musigny,” remarks François. “The minerality and
the spice. The fruit gives a frame and an authority. It gives you the future head of the family –
but not yet the ‘boss’ in depth and complexity. This gives more understating of the old vines.
When you see them young and you can understand the old vines better, because young vines,
like young people, speak more than the old.”
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses
Perfumed aroma; a warm, rich-rose scent entwined with red fruit which carries to the palate.
Such vibrant fruit. This dances onto the palate, vital, pure and energetic. It has spirited freshness
underscored with bright minerality. This tension and minerality in the core really stretches the
wine and defines the finish. Racy, streamlined and very mineral. Very Fine. (19) From 2015
“The stature of this cru is less than Le Musigny, comments François more white pepper and less
spice like ginger and cinnamon. We have a more ethereal perfume. This is more harmonious,”
says François.
*Bonnes Mares
Dark juicy aroma with hint of rich, deep, slightly exotic spice. It unfurls onto the palate with dark
intensity. Full bodied, yet elegant, there is more restraint here. The tannins are velvet and
embedded into the fruit which is density and compact. It focuses to become more brooding and
battened down. There is dark, graphite minerality accented with a lively freshness on the
powerfully well sustained finish. Very fine to outstanding. (19.5-20) From 2017
“For me it is not minerality. It is freshness,” says François.” It has not changed the terroir. This is
a watercolour which is darker - violet and purple, both in the colour and the fruit. We are under
the woods here, so this is more fruit of the forest and shaded. So something more discreet, not
frightening, but mysterious…..who knows you could loose your way in the wood….the wolves are
coming back…”
“This is still the proper Bonnes Mares. This is proper juicy and sappy and nothing to do with the
high minerality. The ‘syrup’ exacerbates the juice of the fruit and the freshness, so we are still
with the proper Bonnes Mares of the South-East and of the red clay.” François has tasted the
2008 Bonnes Mares of the white soil and makes the comparison… “these have a distinct
minerality in this vintage, but not the special minerality of Musigny and Les Amoureuses.”
*Musigny
High toned with lifted spice and perfumed aromatics. This glides across the palate, streamlined
and crystalline. There is an intense, refined energy. It is beautifully defined; pure essence of
Pinot. The channelled finish has fabulous persistence threaded with freshness and finely chalky
minerality. A wine of great presence and elegance. Outstanding. (20) From 2016
“To get a true idea of the vintage you have to go to the patriarch of the village. Musigny will give
the quintessence of the vintage; the ‘water colour,’ the touch of the painting is so sublime,”
comments François.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Contact the importer Corney and Barrow
Chambers & Chambers; Dreyfus Ashby & Co.; H2 Vino; Ideal Wine & Spirits; Import!;
North Berkeley Imports; The Stacole Co Inc; The Wine Company; Atlanta Wholesale;
C’est Vin
68

Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, Vosne-Romanée
“It was a difficult vintage,” remarks Pascal Lachaux. However they had a low incidence of botrytis
which Pascal attributes to the use of grass between the rows. They have a 40cm wide grassed
row between the vines in all the vineyards and for the past seven years have experienced less
botrytis. They hoe beneath the vines.
Selection was important in this vintage and Pascal used two table de tries. In the cuverie there
was little difference with the exception of a little more pigeage which continued over 5 to 6 days.
Pascal had discontinued the use of larger barrels. He now considers they are only of use for
village level and the traditional Burgundy barrel size is more appropriate for premier and grand
cru.
From the 2007 vintage there is a new label on the wines - Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux. There is
also a new Domaine owned parcel of land, Latricières-Chambertin.
The malolactic finished here in June. I tasted from a new barrel as the wine in the older one year
old wood was reduced and Pascal preferred to show the wine from new wood. However all the
village wines will have only 20% new wood, while the premier cru will have 50% and the Suchots
and the grand cru 100%.
Pascal has finished with the negociant side of his business. “It was a folly,” he tells me. The
grapes had become so expensive. (He did rather focus on the top end of the market). The
domaine is 50 hectares and this is enough for him to concentrate on. The work for a domaine
and a négoce are obviously very different and he didn’t like combining the two.
SM
*Bourgogne
In bottle in September before the harvest.
Very fruit driven aroma; bursting with red fruit. The palate follows on in the same vein. Plenty of
juiciness in the middle palate with soft tannins, lively acidity and raspberry and redcurrant
character on the finish. Very pleasant to attractive. (13.5) From 2010.
Vosne-Romanée
This was racked 10 days before I visited and was in tank. It is vibrant with supple raspberry and
loganberry fruit. Sweet on the front of the palate, plenty of body, a nicely curvaceous shape. It
has quite tight tannins and a slightly lean and sappy finish. Good enough. (14.5-15) From
2011/12
Chambolle-Musigny
This is from a new barrel, but the percentage on the final blend will be 20%. This had not been
racked, it is much more mute and lower toned. Decent intensity and freshness of the fruit. The
tannins have a suede-soft texture. It has a juicy, rich full finish. Good+. (15) From 2011/12
Vosne-Romanée, Les Hautes Maizières
The fruit here has a bit more spice, meat and weight than the previous village Vosne. Firm
tannins and good acidity. There is some decent weight in the middle palate. The oak does
dominate, but will not in the final blend. Good to good+ (15-15.5) from 2012
69

The following 3 wines are very attractive examples from Nuits-Saint-George
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Poisets
Another village wine. Lachaux comments that the berries in the vineyard here are always very
small because the vines are 60-70 years. It always has millerandage and the colour is always
deep.
Very seductive aromatics, which are deep and velvety. It has a rich pillowy depth and ample
body. Thick suede-soft tannins. It soaks up the new wood. Succulent fruit on the finish. Lovely,
stylish village wine. Good to very good. (15.5) From 2013
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Procès
50% new oak on the final wine.
Dark, intense blackberry scent on the aroma. Quite a focused profile. Very sweet entry to the
palate. This flows rhythmically in a dark ribbon across the palate. There is lovely, slow movement
to this wine. Depth and complexity and a long, smooth, deeply fruity finish. Unexpectedly good
and very honest. Particularly good+. (17) From 2013
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos Les Corvées Pagets
Much more staccato fruit. Spicy aroma with a hint of cinnamon and ripe Victoria plum. The palate
is brighter and more energetic than the last with lively forest-fruit. An energetic palate with good
acidity and fine grained tannins. This is altogether higher toned and rather more refined.
Particularly good to fine. (17.5-18) From 2013
Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes
Bright, perfumed raspberry fruit aromatics. Quite an elegant, scented palate with delicate, fine
tannins. However the palate is perhaps narrower than one might hope for and not quite as
intense. What it lack in lacks in density and volume it makes up for, to some extent, in elegance.
The finish is lightly spicy and tightly talcy. Particularly Good+. (17-17.5) From 2012/13
Vosne-Romanée, Aux Reignots
This will have 100% new wood.
This is sumptuously fruity and supple. The tannins are light and silky-smooth. It dances onto the
palate. It is surprisingly delicate, light and floaty and wafts gently, enveloping the palate in
generous summer fruit. Lovely, finely grained tannins. It may not have huge gravitas, but it is
engaging and elegant. Nudging Fine. (17.5-18) .From 2012/13
*Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots
This has weight, backbone and luscious density. There is much more grip and extract here. The
tannins are rich and more substantial. The palate is nicely compact. A firm well sustained and
intense finish. Firmly Fine to Fine+. (18-18.5) From 2013.
Clos De Vougeot
This is a little reduced, but the fruit weight is apparent. This is the more masculine style of Clos
de Vougeot. It is quite austere, tight and angular with notes of tar, gaminess and smoke. The
finish is quite muscular boarding on sinewy. Fine to fine+ (18-18.5) 2013/14
*Echezeaux
This has more immediate fruit on the aroma, wild raspberries and bilberries. An elegant entry to
the palate, supple and fluid. This has a lovely streamlined shape, with a firm, tight core, quite
steely core. The energetic fruit dances around this. The finish is fine and very well sustained.
Fine, possibly Very fine. (18.5-19) From 2014
70

Latricières-Chambertin
This is the first vintage of this wine. The vines are 53 years old. 0.53 hectares.
A very upright aroma. Formal and upright on the attack. Firm, taut, tannic profile. This is good
Gevrey character, spicy dark fruit, not rich, but muscular, firmly framed, dense and tight, focused
and austere on the finish. Fine to Very Fine. (18.5) From 2014/15
*Romanée-Saint-Vivant
Wonderful succulent aroma with deeply seductive red fruit. Perfumed on the entry to the palate.
The gorgeous fruit, rose petal and organza, entwines with the satin tannins. This has both poise
and substance. It is deliciously scented on the finish which is lovely long and flowing. It has a
very harmonious movement. Very fine to outstanding. (19.5) From 2014
A mini vertical of Les Suchots
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, 2004
Smoky and slightly gamey, rich aroma. The palate is creamy. There is an edge of the more
herbal, but not herbaceous. The tannins have softened nicely. The palate is smooth and silky and
the finish fluid and relatively well sustained. It is drinking well now with lots of fruit. Score 17.
From now onwards.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots 2005
In contrast this is very closed and battened down on the nose. The fruit is evident and so is the
impressive structure. This has massive density and complexity. It is very well harnessed. The
rich, dense tannins are woven tightly into the wine. It is just beginning to reveal itself. The power
and intensity is palpable. A confident wine. Score 18.5-19. From 2013
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, 2006
This is firm, upright and tense. It is less deeply intense than the 2005. It has a firm, straight,
vigorous and well edged palate. It has evident and good vibrant acidity; it is slightly quartzy,
tight and channelled on the finish. Excellent vigour; plenty of fruit and drive. Score 18.5 From
2011/12
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, 2007
This was bottled in February 2009 and tastes open and fresh. Delicious. It is petally and
perfumed on the aroma. The palate is charming and seductive with fine, graceful tannins.
Absolutely delicious with a delicate flowing energetic. Score 17.5-18.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
John Armit Wines
Contact the agents: Russell Herman, World Wide Wine Source; Neal Rosenthal Wine
Merchant.
71

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée
Sebastien Cathiard has been working with his father Sylvain since 2005, but in 2005 it was part
time and only in the cuverie, as he was still studying. In the spring and summer of 2006 he was
in New Zealand at Fromm, but he came back to Burgundy for the vintage and since then has
been full time fir the the 2007s, 2008s and 2009s.
Sylvian explains that they look for “equilibrium with clarity and the structure behind this.” I asked
Sebastien what he aims to achive. “I like to find minerality in pinot noir. I like to make the
difference between each terroir. It is necessary to feel the difference. Pinot Noir does not need
big extraction but purity of the fruit and the expression. Let the Pinot Noir speak.”
“It was a difficult year in the vineyard because of the rain, but in September we had good
weather. Harvest started on the 29 th September. We were worried about the acidity, but the
malic was transformed. There was more malic than tartaric in the vintage. The MLF was generally
later, but it depended on the cuvée. The Bourgogne was going through MLF in late August.”
Sebastien tells me that in 2008 they will rack earlier and put the wine back into barrel, while in
2007 they left the wine on the lees undisturbed and bottled the 2007 early in December and in
February to conserve the fruit. The 2008 will be bottled in April.
Sylvain thinks the vintage is “a little bit like 2001 with good equilibrium and acidity. It is a vin du
gard. It is a vintage of the vigneron. A very mineral vintage.”
Crystalline and vivid wine.
SM
Bourgogne
This had just been racked and was in tank. Very bright fruit. Lucid attack. Red fruit, tight and
energetic for a wine which has just been racked. It has excellent concentration for Bourgogne.
The finish is nervy. Attractive. (13.5) From 2011/12
*Chambolle-Musigny, Le Clos De L’Orme
Appealing aromatic nose with notes of summer compote and a hint of white flower. Creamy
satin-silky texture. It is juicy and has verve. Lucid silky and sensual finish. Lovely flow. Very
good. (16) From 2012/13.
Vosne-Romanée
Racked yesterday.
The fruit shimmers. Tight red cherry with a hint of almond kernel. Delicious fresh acidity and
vivacious character. This has juicy fruit in the middle palate with lovely depth and intensity for
village wine. The finish is seamless and entwined with bright fruit and fresh acidity. Very good.
(16). From 2012.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Reignots
This is not racked yet. Pure, dark, bramble fruit. Smooth lightly muscular tannins with some grip
and a hint of liquorish bite. There is depth and restrained power beneath the fruit and dark,
graphite minerality minerality. The finish layered, energetic and persistent. Fine. (18) From 2015.
72

*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Thorey
Racked yesterday. 56 year old vines. When they bought this vineyard in 2006 it was in good
shape, but Sebastien says they need three years to make the changes which are specific to them.
Now they are happy.
Plenty of thick and rich fruit with hints of dark plum, blackberry and chocolate; full and juicy with
very good intensity. The palate is enveloped with dark and velvet tannins. It has an excellent
energy and fresh acidity. Lovely balance and a long and sweet fruit finish. Fine to fine+. (18-
18.5). From 2014
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Murgers
Racked yesterday. 65 year old vines.
Zesty purple fruit aroma with a hint of fresh mint. Violet fruit on the attack. It is peppery, very
fresh with intense fruit in the middle palate; dark cherry. Tight tannins, grippy and slightly
muscular. There is tension and substance with decent intensity on the sappy, peppery finish.
Particularly good to fine. (17.5-18) From 2014.
*Vosne-Romanée, En Orveaux
The vines are about 50 years old.
Perfumed with cherry blossom. Silky textured. The palate is vibrantly fresh and vivacious. Lovely,
lucid dancing fruit. There is a fragrance to the palate and peppery white flowers on the finish.
Lovely bite of mineral acidity on the finish. Fine. (18) From 2013
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots
Not racked. Some reduction. The palate is taut with energy. Crystal clear red fruit. This is
compact and has some excellent depth. Lovely vigour on the finish. This effortlessly combines
density with clarity. Fine+ (18.5). From 2014
*Vosne-Romanée, Les Malconsorts
Alluring dark plum aroma. Juicy sweet and vivid fruit attack. Generous palate, sweepingly full in
the middle, rounded and plump. It is very succulent and the tannins are satin glossy yet taut.
There is a smooth granite minerality which underscores the wine and carries the finish. This has
substance with elegance. Excellent sustained finish. Fine to very fine. 18.5. From 2015
*Romanée-Saint-Vivant
The vines here are about 62 years old. No one can remember exactly when they were planted.
Evocatively aromatic with high notes of white flower. The palate has florality too. It is poised and
has a shimming translucency. This is underscored by depth and substance. It has refinement and
finesse, yet there is great depth and substance. Very fine, long and vivid finish. Very Fine 19-
19.5. From 2015
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Berry Bros & Rudd; David Roberts Domaines; Goedhuis; Justerini and Brooks; Lay &
Wheeler; O.W. Loeb; Robert Rolls Fines Wines; Flint Wines
Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France.
73

Domaine Jacky Confuron-Cotétidot, Vosne-Romanée
“The malolactic is mysterious,” remarks Yves Confuron. “It took a long time to make malolactic,
but I like this. You increase the complexity of aroma.”
“It is richer than 2001 and less strict in the quality of fruit. It is more like 1993 in the fruit and
perhaps also the same level of acidity and tannin of the ‘93.”
Yves says of the 2009s. “There was a big quantity of grapes. You had to take care with the
quantity and the ability of the vine to ripen it. If you picked early, it may look good young, but
then the tannins may become hard if there is not sufficient ripe fruit to balance.”
Yves prefers his 2007s to his 2008s. “The 2007s are very pure and everything is in balance. I
think 2007 is better than 2005; more like 2002. If you made the harvest after the 10 th of
September that is. If you had mature grapes, you had better tannins than in 2008.”
An exellent and consistent flight of wines.
SM
*Vosne-Romanée
Lovely bright pure fruit on the aroma. Sweet attack, very fresh, juicy with soft tannins. Vivid fruit
finish for this village wine. Good to very good. (15-15.5) From 2013
Nuits-Saint-George
Au Bas de Combe.
Dark and slightly perfumed with a violet note. Bramble fruit on the palate with spice and purple
glints. The tannins are ripe and peppery. Lovely streamlined finish. An elegant Nuits and when
the MLF has finished it should have a little more plumpness. Good to very good. (15.5) From
2013/14
Gevrey-Chambertin
Upright with a slight medicinal and tarry aroma. The palate flows smoothly with delicious dark
berry fruit with notes of mineral and anise underscored with freshness. Supple tannic structure.
Lovely lucidity and a bite to the finish. Good+ (15.5) From 2013/14
*Chambolle-Musigny
Deeply aromatic. The palate is racy, juicy and fresh with bright crushed cherry fruit, firm but light
tannins, a smooth talcy texture and a fine line of chalky minerality on the finish. Good+ to very
good (15.5-16). From 2013/14
*Pommard
Violet, high toned aroma. Succulent and juicy. It is tight, quite racy with a firm, but smoothly
grained tannic structure. It has a liquorice edge, cool granite minerality and waft of high spice.
There is depth invigorated with freshness. Good long and mineral finish. Very good village
Pommard (15.5). From 2013/14
74

Pommard. Arvelets
More iron in soil and sometimes Yves feels he tastes this. Iron rich clay.
Crushed black cherry aroma. Sweet and succulent, it glides in a rich satin ribbon across the
palate. The tannins are firmly smooth and it very harmonious. It focuses to a dark and vivid fruit
finish. A surprisingly supple and elegant Arvelets. Particularly good, possibly fine (17.5-18). From
2015
Gevrey-Chambertin, Craipillots
Finished the malolactic.
Vivid aroma, small dark forest fruits and a touch of anise. Burst of fruit on the attack Firm and
muscular, but fine tannins, quite tightly grained. It has good tension and vitality. It springs onto
the finish, tight and bright and quite long. Particularly Good (+). (17) From 2014/15
Gevrey-Chambertin, Petit Chapelle
Talcy perfumed and more acute aroma. Neat palate, firmly edged and with a hint of liquorice. It
is very fresh (more malic here, which is accentuating the tannins a little). A shaley, lightly layered
palate with an energetic finish. Particularly Good+ (17.5). From 2014/15
*Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaut-Saint-Jacques
Red fruit with an edge of gun-smoke. The palate is sweetly fruited, nicely rounded and plump in
the middle. It is succulent, juicy and full onto the finish. The tannins are smooth and very wellmannered.
It is generous and appealing, yet it also has some mineral definition which comes
under the fruit and couples with freshness for a bright and long finish. A good fruit-full Lavaux
with some mineral definition this year. Particualrly good, maybe nudging into fine. (17.5-18).
From 2014/15
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Vignes-Rondes
Plump, juicy aroma. Rich, generous and rounded palate. It has ripe and vivid bramble fruit. Firm,
but svelte tannins, nicely supportive. Very amiable, smoothly textured with a fresh and lifted
finish. A very good Aux Vignes-Rondes nudging into Fine. (18) From 2014
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots
Red fruit and perfumed aroma; not floral, rather it’s scented. The palate is well edged. There is
tension round a juicy centre of succulent fruit. The tannins are firm, but smoothly supportive. It
finishes well with plenty of freshness. It is not particularly profound, but has nice definition. Fine.
(18). From 2015
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots 1993
Wonderfully expressive bouquet with tertiary notes, foxy sweet, woodland and mushroom. Slips
sweetly onto the palate, smooth, seductive and supple. The acidity is fresh, the tannins silky, the
fruit is very pure and the finish is fresh and lively. Score 18. This is drinking very well now.
When we discussed the freshness and acidity, Yves points out that the 1993 was made using
whole bunch. He says, “The older vintages are always more whole bunch and make fresher wine.
The temperature during the fermentation was not so high and in the ageing it produces less
‘marmalade’ notes, so the wine is always fresher, but often more methyl as well at the beginning.
I think the 2008 are fruitier, yet the acidity is similar to 1993 and maybe also the tannins are also
similar.”
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots 1996
Very pure intense aroma, tertiary, but still with essence of fruit and a juicy core of fruit. Lovely
intensity, purity and vibration. This is singing. The shape is more linear than the 93. There are
75

more tannins and tauter tannins, although this is a very good 1996 for the wine is mellowing and
the tannins are smooth. Many can be hard and awkward still with the bare bones of the acidity
and tannin exposed. Yves remarks, “In the 1996 vintage you had to be at 35 hl/ha. It can be the
best vintage of the nineties. But, if you had higher yields, you had just high acidity and coarse
tannin. Score 18.5. this still has a lot of life and will continue to develop.
*Echézeaux
Les Treux on the boarder of Clos de Vougeot, Echézeaux and Grand Echézeaux
There has a slightly wild, spicy, bramble and exotic aroma. Supple shammy-smooth texture,
rippling energy and red raspberry fruit with notes of white pepper. Finely-grained, well tonned
and supportive tannins with smooth minerality on the finish. This is streamlined, well edged and
pure. Fine+ (18.5) From 2015
Charmes-Chambertin
Expressively perfumed and spicily exotic. Immediately expansive on the palate. It is broad and
perfumed. It is relatively loosely textured and structured for grand cru, but has delicious deep
fruit. Inviting and generous, lifted with freshness. A long and perfumed, spicy finish. Fine to
Fine+. (18-18.5) From 2015/16
Clos De Vougeot
Upright, high toned aroma. Sweet attack with juicy loganberry fruit. It is both lucid and
harmonious on the attack. It tightens for more focus and depth. The palate is vigorous, fresh and
well defined. Pure and channelled finish with verve and some panache. Firmly Fine+ (18.5) From
2015/16
*Mazis-Chambertin
Gorgeous density of fruit, very sweet and focused. There is precision to the edge of the palate
and a good firm core. The tannins are ripe and supple smooth, but firmly supportive. An elegant
and refined Mazis with a straight and vigorous finish. Long and assertive finish drive on the finish.
Nuding into very fine. (19). From 2016/17
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Lea and Sandeman
Village Wine in New York
76

Domaine Gandrey, Vosne-Romanée
Jean-François Gandrey is the youngest of 8 children. He and his siblings share a small parcel of
premier cru Boudot in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Alone of his brothers and sisters, Jean-François took
to the vine and wine-making, and for years they have had an informal arrangement whereby he
tends the vines and makes the wine. The proceeds (vinous and financial) are shared among them
all. Jean-François also works for Pascal Lachaux at Domaine Arnoux, who also buys some of his
wine (there’s a bit of Bourgogne Rouge), and provides him with wine-making facilities.
Domaine Gandrey is a fledgling. Jean-François is saving up to buy the familial Boudot from his
brothers and sisters, who are loyally resisting alternative purchasers. He wants to build up
quantities to a more commercially viable level. He’s slowly doing up a run-down little house in
Vosne above tiny – but restored – cellars.
SA
Red Wines
Vosne-Romanée
Bright and redcurranty aroma. Light bodied and nicely made with clear, crisp fruit, lively energy
and a zesty finish. Rather light for a village wine, but competently made. Attractive. (14) From
l2011
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Damodes
Dark fruit aroma with slight spice. Silky perfumed palate. Again quite slight, but it is elegant. It
shows a light touch with the tannins, attractive wild red raspberry fruit, lively freshness and a
delicate high-toned spice. Although it lacks some intensity for a premier cru, it has appealing
aromatics. Good+. (15.5-16). From 2012
77

Domaine Forey Père & Fils, Vosne-Romanée
Unless otherwise stated, wines had finished the malolactic fermentation and were in oak. They
will be left to settle now, without racking, until bottling, which will start with the Bourgogne in
December and finish with the grands crus in Spring.
All wines are made using a proportion of whole bunches, cold maceration of up to 5 days, and a
fairly long maceration (up to 25 days). The premier crus and above have 100% new oak, the
lesser appellations considerably less.
These were full, generous, but structured wines. The best also have real elegance and finesse.
SA
*Bourgogne
From a parcel between Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges. This has very appealing red
and black fruit aromas. On the palate it is lively, crunchy and floral. Juicy tannin, decent length,
sweet bright fruit. Only 10% new oak here, and the fruit really sings. Really enjoyable Bourgogne
(14). From 2011/12.
Morey-Saint-Denis
Restrained but fresh aromatics. Lively acidity on entry, with sweet red cherry fruit and rather
lushly textured tannin. Floral notes and wild strawberry on a very respectable and velvety finish.
Good (15). From 2013.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges
Quite restrained on the nose, but nicely concentrated on the palate, with inky, cherry-stone fruit.
This is hugely pleasurable and really intense for a village. A ripe, expansive Nuits, but with
notably fresh fruit expression and really appetising tannin. Very good + (15.5). From 2013.
*Vosne-Romanée
This is very expressive and scented, with notes of rose water and blueberry. On the palate, a
fresh acidic strike is matched by a sweet core of very ripe fruit, and very velvety, plump tannins.
This is a little more structured than the Morey-Saint-Denis, with more length and richness. Fresh,
but seductive. Very good for a village wine (15.5). From 2012/13.
Morey-Saint-Denis, Premier Cru
Very scented and overt on the nose. On the palate it is expansive and diffuse, with sweet smoky
oak and ripe dark fruit. It also has a generosity about it, but with finer, dryer tannin than the
Nuits, and a floral and mineral finish. Very good to particularly good (16.5). From 2014/15.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Perrières
Notably deep colour here. Profound but quite muted on the nose. A firm, fresh entry, with very
concentrated, intense inky dark fruit and notes of liquorice, wood smoke and cherry stone. Firm
but refined tannic structure disciplines the intense, ripe fruit in here - there’s plenty of athletic
flesh on the bones. Very long, lively, intense and mineral on the refined finish. Fine (18). From
2015.
78

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges
(This is from vines planted in 1930, of which about 40% are on their original roots.)
Brooding, heady aromatics. Not well-defined, but intense. This is closed and tight on the palate,
and quite pinched by new oak at the moment. This is also very ripe, but here the tannins are
jerkier, and protrude more on the finish. This is long, powerful and structured. Certainly a fine
wine, although I think I prefer the minerality of the Perrières in this vintage. Particularly good to
fine (17.5). From 2015.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Petits Monts
This has a haunting and expressive scent of white flowers, cherry and quince. On the palate it
has a very lovely finesse about it – intense but not weight, with notes of Griotte. Firm but fine
tannins have a very refined texture, and contribute to the elegant pace of this wine. The new oak
pinches a little on the finish, but there’s plenty of intensity and concentration to soak it up over
time. Finishes fine, and long, and layered with perfume. Particularly good (17). From 2015.
*Vosne-Romanée, Les Gaudichots
Layered and alluring, with notes of rose petal and violets with hints of cherry stone and morello.
This is focussed and more insistent than Les Petits Monts, with a firm acidic strike, and a very
tight mineral palate. Less obvious flesh here, but lots of intensity and actually a ripe but dense
core of fruit. The finish is very long, lively and appetisingly tangy. Mineral withal. Fine (18). From
2015.
*Echezeaux
Very expressive aromatics: rich and warm with notes of gingerbread, prune and dark berry fruits.
Initially rather slinky and silky on the palate, it has fresh acidity and hazily structuring tannins,
cloaked in very ripe, pure black and red cherry fruit. Perfumed fragrance really reasserts itself on
the finish. This is fine – long, vibrant, and with real grand cru richness and tension. Fine+.
(18.5). From 2016.
*Clos de Vougeot
Very darkly pigmented. Brooding and deep, with cherry and cherry-stony aromatics. Really builds
on entry to a tight, compact, mid palate. Dense and concentrated with good extract and firm
acidity. The fruit is ripe but lively. It’s very tight at the moment, as new oak slightly pinches the
finish. But freshness, fruit and the hint of scent to come emerges at the very end of the palate.
Very fine (19). From 2016.
UK: Georges Barbier; Alliance Wine
Ireland: (check)
USA: Rosenthal Wine Merchant
Stockists
79

Domaine Jean Grivot, Vosne-Romanée
“If you were able to control the attack of disease and the volume you could make good wine in
2008,” Says Etienne Grivot. We did two green harvests and we took the leaves off on the North
and the East exposition. We started harvesting in September 24th. It was a very long vegetative
cycle. It was 118 days. This vintage was saved by a fantastic September. You had to have
everything under control by the end of August and only then could realise a very good vintage.”
Etienne Grivot’s vines had no or little botrytis.
MLF was late, but it is often the case here. “From the time that I managed a better balance in
the nutrition of the soil (no fertiliser) and started getting good acidity and tannin in the grapes,
the bacteria have had difficulty converting the malic to lactic acidity. In 2007 we racked before
the press/trade visits, but this time I 2008 I prefer to leave the wine quiet on the lees for as long
as possible.” Some had been racked and sulphured two days before I visited and some were still
on the lees. There is some gas and reduction in the wines pre-racking, but the affect of the SO2
was much more profound. I have noted where it is impossible to make a proper tasting.
“The acidity was perfect,” says Etienne, “Naturally perfect. The difference in 2008, even after two
green harvests, was that we had to eliminate grapes without proper maturity level. We took out
5-7% percent. Our average production is 76,000 bottles yet 2007 and 2008 it was 71,000 bottles.
So 6000-7000 bottles were simply eliminated. But, it is more important to take pleasure in the
cellar in the tasting than to explain why it is not good.”
Tannins: “From the beginning, before the malolactic started I had a great impression of the
silkiness of the tannins. I move the wine much less each year. Each year I learn, even though I
am 50 years old. I never finish the process. There are no big revolutions now, but I still learn.
Since the end of the 90s I have been happy with the ageing potential, but in the 2000s I have
wanted to give the wine a nice touch of suavity, but without changing the stability of the edifice.
Too many wines are made to be seductive at any time. The wines need the strength to resist the
attack of age.”
“If you compare the 2008 with different years, it is one of my best results for silky tannins with
minerality and energy.”
“I think it is close to 1993, because 1993 is a great vintage from a cold season with a long
vegetative cycle. It was possible to make great wine this year if the volume was not too high. I
am sure that 2008 it will be a great surprise in a few years.”
SM
Bourgogne
Dark, spicy fruit with an edge of black pepper and bitter chocolate. Excellent grip for Bourgogne.
Tautly spicy palate with plenty of nervous acidity. Good punchy and sappy finish. Attractive. (14)
From late 2012
Two excellent village NSG with gorgeous silky tannins:
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*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Lavières
The only one which has not finished its MLF. 85% through.
It is reduced on the nose, but the palate is more readable. The fruit is sweet blackberry, supple
textured with sweeping silky tannins and floral elegance. Dancing palate; lithe and fresh. Good to
Very Good (15.5-16) From 2013
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Charmois
This has been in the family for 150 years and I believe Etienne has 80% of this village vineyard
which stretches up along on the south side of the combe and the village. This vineyard is late to
mature.
Again this is surprisingly satin-smooth in texture with vivid red fruit, rather tight and
concentrated. A harmonious, rippling, sensual palate with a fresh and lively finish. Decent
substance and certainly plenty of elegance for village wine. Very Good+. (15.5) From 2013
Vosne-Romanée
“In this cuvée there are parcels in the white soil close to NSG. This is the first vintage feel I have
controlled the expression of this part of the cuvée.” This NGS land represents 18% of the cuvée.
Tart cherry fruit and a sappy lifted aroma. Bright attack. Snappy, sappy palate. Lots of red fruit.
Verve and fresh acidity. Fine tannic structure and rather direct. Plenty of tart red cherry on the
finish. Good to good+ (15-15.5) From 2012/13
Vosne-Romanée, Les Bossières
Rather perfumed and spicy with a note of almond and a touch of the exotically floral. The attack
is satin-smooth and seductive. Juicy middle palate. It focuses with slightly nervous grip. Decent
intensity carries through to an attractively sappy finish. I like the slightly tart, cool minerality on
the finish. Good+ (15.5) From 2013
*Chambolle-Musigny, La Combe D’Orveau
Gorgeous floral aroma. Svelte and gliding. It shimmers. The alluring texture is underscored with
tight, chalky minerality and a firm sense of direction. It has a neatly precise and cool finish.
Really rather refined. Top notch village wine. Very good indeed. (16) From 2013
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Pruliers
“I harvest a little later to go inside the deepness of the fruit,” says Etienne Grivot. In 2003 he
discovered the virtue of riper harvest here by accident. He had always preferred to harvest with
the energy and minerality present, but the warm 2003, showed what the ripe fruit could deliver.
“It gives me the opportunity to discover something more. The result was magical. I realised I
needed to harvest later. Now I find something more seductive and extrovert.”
It is a bit reduced on the nose. A polished attack before it becomes tight and compact with dark
fruit and spicy notes. There is density here and a smoothly burly tannin structure with a luscious
liquorish bite. It has drive and vigour. Fine. (18) From 2012
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Roncières
“Always more garrigue; it is the sensation we have after it has rained when we are walking at
the top of the hill.”
This has lifted high toned aromatics. It is silky and suave on the attack and has a more feminine,
floral note. It is quite dynamic; muscular, yet balletic. There is clarity of fruit here. The tension
carries to the lightly scented finish. Elegant and refined. I like this. Fine+ 18-18.5 2013/14
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Boudots
Deeply juicy with dark plumy fruit and a hint of black pepper. Plenty of fleshy depth and a plump,
deep middle palate underscored with a firm structure. Power coupled with elegance on the finish.
A Fine Boudots. (18) From 2014/15
81

Vosne-Romanée, Les Rouges
The SO2 has really knocked this wine. The structure is higher and more upright; the fruit red
cherry, bright and vivacious. However it is a more fragile cuvée and has not resisted the SO2 as
well as the two previous wines. I need to taste this again.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes
Again lots of SO2. The palate is tight and too hard. It is the sulphur. There is compact red fruit.
The finish has a talcy minerality to it. I cannot properly assess it.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Brûlées
Etienne Grivot describes a time when he was in the US and was asked to describe the difference
between Les Brûlées and Les Beaumonts. “I said Les Brûlées is like Brigitte Bardot and Les
Beaumonts is like Catherine Denueve.” He is not sure it really had the effect he hoped for.
I cannot comment on the nose as there is too much SO2. The palate has juicy, full and richly
glossy. There is vivacity and intensity on the finish. There is an edge of burnished minerality. This
is potentially fine+ From 2014/15
Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaumonts
I can just detect a slight sensuality here though the sulphur on the aroma. There is juicy fruit, full
and rich, but somewhat restrained. There is depth and direction. The tannins will have a satin
texture. There is an enveloping, cloaked feeling to this wine and dark velvet persistence. It is
really long. Potentially fine+. From 2014/15
Vosne-Romanée, Les Reignots
Etienne spoke of this having an upright architectural flamboyant; reaching for the sky.
Spicy and satin textured. Unctuous fruit coupled with vigorous energy and powerful structure.
There is sumptuousness to the texture underscore with cool slate. Slightly wild; a bit untamed.
Take your time to age this wine. Fine+ (18.5). From 2015/16.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots
Red cherry; very berrish and intense fruit. Lucid fruit, but substance and layered structure
beneath. Excellent, pacy acidity. It has edge and energy and a very persistent finish. Fine+
(18.5) From 2014
“I prefer Suchot,” says Etienne. “My obsession is to find the perfect balance between energy and
sensual elegance. Suchot has an elegance and luminosity and I prefer this. So I see vigour and
the balance here in Suchot; yet the Reignots is elegant too. This is what I search for. I want real
energy; strong without brutality.”
Clos De Vougeot
This has powerful muscularity. It is dense, tense with depth and richness and massive substance.
It is stately. There is a quartzy minerality on the finish which is vigorous and compact and
notably strong. A serous, growling masculine wine with discipline and cutting edge. Very fine.
From 2015/16
“I have improved this cuvée. It was too monolithic. Now, without changing the real energy and
vigour of this cuvée, I have given it a better education!”
*Echezeaux
This is darkly inviting and enticing. Velvet and caressing on the attack. It is so seductive and
rounded. A rich, spherical body with dark depth. Beneath this is power and fabulous
82

concentration. This has sophistication with power. A seriously seductive Echezeaux and best
example I tasted in this vintage. Very Fine (19). From 2016
*Richebourg
Here we go up a notch up. The aroma is seductive, but has reserve, elegance and refinement. It
has a sinuous, flowing texture and is smoothly curvaceous. It glides across the palate with
effortless ease and assurance. This has the x factor. There is power and intensity coupled with
restrain, tension and gravitas. A wine of great presence. Outstanding. (20). From 2016
Richebourg 1993
This is still youthful on the aroma. It is intense with a blend of fruit and more tertiary characters.
It is surprisingly lively. Seductive attack to a rich and structurally powerful palate. It has lovely
ringing acidity, cutting though the depth of fruit. Long, powerful and elegant finish. Score 20.
Now onwards.
Stockists
UK: Ballantynes of Cowbridge; Berry Bros & Rudd; Bibendum; Goedhuis; Lay and Wheeler;
Raeburn Fine Wines; Seckford; The Wine Society;
USA: Diageo Château & Estate Wines.
www.domainegrivot.com
83

Domaine Anne Gros, Vosne-Romanée
I tasted with Anne Gros, who explained that they picked late and long in 2008, starting on the
27th September and finishing on the 16th October (for the Hautes-Côtes Chardonnay). Here, as
elsewhere in 2008, botrytis necessitated very strict selection with Pinot Noir, although Anne liked
the long, slow ripening of the cool conditions in 2008. September’s drying north wind and
sunshine undoubtedly saved the vintage for Pinot Noir.
Anne favours a fairly rapid fermentation, and moderate élevage - ‘As a character I like to go fast’
– but I think she just has very firm grasp on what she wants to achieve in her wines, and dead
certainty about how to get it. (As she points out, she had to exercise great patience over picking
dates in 2008.) All the red wines had finished malo and were in stainless steel tank, still on their
lees and under carbonic gas. This highly protective élevage is one of the foundations for the
strikingly vibrant, nuanced and pristine fruit of these wines but, as she says “you can only do this
if you have very, very sanitary clean wine. It’s not a problem for me, and also I use quite a lot of
new oak”
The wines will be bottled, after a light filtration, in December.
SA
White
Bourgogne Blanc, Hautes Côtes De Nuits
Quite muted on the nose – this is a little reduced today, and the malo not yet finished. Beneath
the gas and spiky acidity there is a lovely sinuous texture and a delicately nutty but pristine fruit.
Very good concentration on the finish for this level. Very attractive to good (14.5). From
2011/12.
Red
*Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes De Nuits
Pure, precise, fresh and high-toned. This has lively, vibrant fruit and an unforced exuberance.
Tannins have a nice little bite and are attractively mouth-watering. Finishes clear as a bell and
surprisingly long for this level. Totally yummy and very moreish. Good (14.5). From 2011/12.
*Bourgogne
20 barrels from 4 parcels in Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges. 20-25 year old vines.
There’s both red and dark fruit here - cherry and a hint of spice – with very good depth for a
Bourgogne. Tannins are quite grippy but not at all rustic – pretty refined actually. Very intense,
vibrant fruit runs through the palate and onto a firm, lively, finish. Really good Bourgogne.
(14.5). From 2011/12.
*Chambolle-Musigny, La Combe D’Orveau
This is restrained on the nose but intensely floral, scented and mineral on the palate – airy and
head-filling. Very fine and silky on entry, but really builds to the finish – like an arrow point –
finishing with graphite and flowers. There’s a beautifully fresh acidity really woven into the ultra
fine but resistant tannin here. Really very good (16). From 2013/14.
84

Vosne-Romanée
Malo has just finished. Lots of gas, but beneath it there are some very exotic aromatics here –
turkish delight – and a voluminous, velvety texture. A core of very sweet, pure fruit unfurls from
the mid palate and dominates the warm, lush, scented finish. Top notch village. (16). From
2013/14.
Echezeaux
Diffuse aromatics of gingerbread and sweet, smashed wild strawberry. This has an utterly
beguiling texture and shape: very louche, silky and smooth on the entry (almost moisturising),
then comes a surprising kick – a rear guard of acidity and smoky oak tannin which makes it pulls
itself together and drives to a dense, intense and very focussed finish. Fine to very fine. (18.5).
From 2016.
After the tasting, Anne fills me in: 2008 is only her second harvest of this wine, but in each year
the vineyard has exhibited the same traits: a tendency for extreme, precocious ripeness, and a
susceptibility to rot. Analysis revealed that this wine had the highest dry extract of all in her
cellar, and a lot of glycerol. Certainly, the 70% new oak used here is not at all obtrusive.
Clos De Vougeot
Very expressive aromatics – violets and smashed cherry. Very ripe, sweet fruit and spice on the
palate. Like the Echezeaux, this has a plumpness about it. But there is more obviously structuring
tannin, albeit inside a very juicy envelope of dense fruit. This is very coherent and has a great
sense of unforced harmony about it. The domaine trademark of purity and vibrancy really
complements the Vougeot richness. Finishes very long, zesty, and rich. Very fine (19). From
2016.
Richebourg
Brooding and elemental on the nose – distilled essence of Pinot. On the palate this is very dense
and layered in both texture and aromatics. Complex and enigmatic, especially in the aromatics
which are really beguiling but hard to pin down. High-toned spicy (“oriental spices” says Anne)
shimmer under pure fruit intensity. Like all really great wine, this already has that sense of
unfurling on the palate. Ultra refined tannins are a fine, filigree mesh of structuring support, and
are totally soaked into the fruit. Succulent and very long. Outstanding (20). From 2016.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Adnams; Laytons Wine Merchants; Lay & Wheeler Ltd; Howard Ripley.
Atherton Wine Import; North Berkeley Imports
www.anne-gros.com
85

Domaine Michel Gros, Vosne-Romanée
“2008 was cool and rainy, in particular the first 3 weeks of August. There was only 1 week of
August, which was warm. September was drier, especially the last 2 weeks, but also they were
also very cold. We started harvesting on the 28th September. This is later than the average
harvest date, but the level of botrytis was very low, so we could wait. This is because I took the
leaves out at the beginning of July and, in this vintage, I made two sprays for botrytis. I had just
3-5% of the grapes affected with botrytis in this vintage. It was easy to make the triage. I am
also very careful with Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium. I make the analysis of the leaf and
the soil to control them at a very low level. I am sure this low level of nitrogen has helped
against the infection of botrytis in this vintage.” Michel started this 30 years ago.
“The harvest was very late compared with previous vintages. We need to go back 20 years for so
late a harvest. For this reason this is difficult to compare with the vintages of this decade. (In the
70s and 80s we had some very late harvests. 1987 was a late harvest with a very cool
September)”
“The maturity came late in September when it was dry and cool. This has conserved the aromas
but also the acidity, especially the malic, at harvest. Now, after the MLF, the level of acidity is
quite normal.”
“The MLF was very late because of the high malic and because it was so cold during the winter
and it was a long winter. Most of the wines went through in July and August.”
“The pH at harvest was between 3.0 and 3.1, which is very low. After the MLF the pHs are
between 3.5 and 3.6. Compared with 2009, the 2008 we have 3 times more malic acidity.”
The sugar level was average at about 11-12 degrees.
Michel did not use such a high a temperature at the end of the fermentation as usual; just 33
degrees so as not to extract too much tannin. This is the only difference. He used normal length
and number of pigeage. “I do not want to correct the vintage. I want to show it,” he remarks.
Michel comments on the latest vintages. “2006 is classic for long ageing and quite strict, but for
me it has good future. 2007 is more accessible and easy, but is not a light, soft vintage. In fact,
the balance is normal. It is like the best 2000 and 2002. I would compare 2008 with 2001 for the
acidity and the stronger tannins.”
SM
Bourgogne
Very bright, effervescent cherry fruit aroma. It has a juicy, fruity palate with firm tannins; not
aggressive, but certainly supportive. The finish is punchy with a bit of a twang. Very pleasant to
attractive. (13.5). From late 2011/12
Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes De Nuits
They harvested on the 8 th October in the Hautes Côtes. The weather was dry in October, but cool
still.
Dark, slightly medicinal aroma. The tannins are assertive and a touch rustic maybe. It will need
time. Darkly robust and quite wild. Pleasant. (13.5). From 2011
86

*Morey-Saint-Denis, En La Rue De Vergy
In the final assemblage it will be 1/3 new barrel. “The soil is very rocky, so it is always a fine
wine, but not massive structure,” says Michel
Wild cherry blossom fragrance. It is light, elegant and juicy. The tannins are peppery and
appetising. The finish combines more savoury notes with pure morello cherry fruit. It has a
sappy, savoury and engaging finish. Good+ (15.5). From 2012/13.
Vosne-Romanée
This is more inscrutable. There is a deeper, dense richness to the aroma. The attack is discreet at
the moment. It is quite battened down. The fruit is tight; the tannins are firm and smoothly
muscular. There is good breadth to the palate. The finish is assertive and relatively well
sustained. Appealingly fresh acidity. Good. (15) From 2013/14.
Nuits-Saint-Georges
The cuvée of parcels on the Vosne side.
This is bright, dark cherry fruit. There is plenty of peppery character. It is taut with energy and
lively acidity. The tannins are assertive. The finish has a bright, crunchy, cranberry fruit
character. Good (15). From 2013/14
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Challiots
This is altogether richer with a deep, dark fruit undertone. It is juicy, dense and very nicely
compact. Lots of matter. There are notes of dark quartzy liquorish. The acidity lifts the finish. It
will need time. The acidity and the tannins are competing at the moment. Very good. (16). From
2014
*Chambolle-Musigny
One third new oak on the final blend. One third of young vines with 12 year old clones of 667
and 777.
Lovely texture with smooth, supple tannins and rippling energy. It has a seductive and inviting
palate. The fruit is high toned, red and raspberry fresh. It has lively acidity and a zingy, fruit
driven finsh. Good+ (15.5). From 20112/13
*Vosne-Romanée, Clos Des Réas 2008
The MLF was early as this was in the warmer cellar. So this wine is more advanced in the line up
of 2008s. I tasted from an old barrel and a new one.
Old barrel: Sweet fruit palate. This sings. The tannins are supple, suede soft and caressing. The
acidity is fresh and the wine has bright energy and engaging intensity. It is not a big wine, but it
has presence, particularly on the finish which is very well sustained and flowing.
New barrel: the new wood adds a creamy, satin texture to the fruit and lends extra weight to the
finsh.
The blend: Better when it has not 100% new wood. The blend allows the clarity and purity to
come through with a bit of the sweetness of the new oak. Fine to very fine (18.5). From 2014
A few older vintages of Vosne-Romanée, Clos Des Réas:
Vosne-Romanée, Clos Des Réas 2001
This is developing an inviting bouquet with notes of mushroom and autumnal woodland. It is
intense and very expressive. The palate is fine, sweet, flowing and very bright. The acidity is
vibrant. The wine has a lovely long tapering line. There are toasty, nutty notes on the palate. It is
87

eally very fresh on the finish. It has excellent energy and brightness. Lovely wine. 18.75. It is
drinking very well now.
Vosne-Romanée, Clos Des Réas 2004
No herbaceous notes on the nose. Pure as a bell. Still very fruit driven. This is bright, lively, and
energetic with crunchy, cranberry red fruit. The tannins are silky, delicate and woven into the
wine. An excellent 2004. Delicious!! Score 18.25. This is also tasting very well at the moment.
Vosne-Romanée, Clos Des Réas 2006
Assertive with dark cherry aroma. Dense on the attack. It is very pure, very pinot, straight, driven
and channelled. The fruit is precise and clear the tannins fine, but structural. Score 18.5. From
2012
Vosne-Romanée, Clos Des Réas 2007
Supple texture. This dances lightly across the palate. There is very pretty Pinot fruit. Very good
harmony and balance. An understated and elegant wine. Score 18.25. From 2012 (It is open and
engaging now, but may well close down for a couple of years.)
Back to the 2008s
Vosne-Romanée, Aux Brulées
Sample from older wood: Rich, warm raspberry fruit with a touch of cinnamon. It is lively. It has
a toasty creaminess. The tannins are firm and supportive, but fine grained. Succulent sweetness
to the finish.
Sample from new barrel: the new oak envelops the fruit. At the moment, while it adds weight, it
also gives a touch of rawness to the wine.
Particularly good to fine. (17.5-18). From 2013
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Premier Cru
Vignes Rondes and Murgers.
Old barrel: this is svelte, seductive and smoothly muscular. It has a very sleek texture, which
flows to a long, darkly spicy, low toned middle palate with a hint of nutmeg. It has plenty of
matter and a rounded concentration and fullness which carry to the finish. Fine.
New barrel: Mandarin notes (wood?). The oak certainly adds quite a lot of spice, or accentuates
the spicy notes on the wine, making them higher toned.
The blend is smoothly seductive for NSG. It has body, presence and an assertive, but not
aggressive tannic structure. Give this time. Fine to fine+ (18-18.5). From 2015/16
Clos De Vougeot
Replanted in 1987, so the vines are 21 years old now. The rendement was 40hl/ha.
Very perfumed and succulent aroma. Seductive, aromatic palate with gently rippling tannins. This
is now becoming quite a serious wine. The finsh is slightly mineral with tight, light chalk. It is
very harmonious. While it does not have the full gravitas of a grand cru, it has a lovely elegance
and perfume and is well sustained. Fine to very fine. (18.5.)
“It is always like this. It has soft tannins and low acidity,” says Michel.
88

Stockists
UK: A & B Vintners; Hayman, Barwell Jones Ltd.; Fine & Rare Wines; Harvey Nichols; Lay and
Wheeler; Thorman Hunt
USA: Andomia Wines; Chambers & Chambers; Martin Scott Wines
Canada: Vins de Terroir Wine Selections
89

Domaine Lamarche, Vosne-Romanée
I tasted with Nicole Lamarche, who has been been running (and overhauling) vineyards and
winemaking since her father retired in 2006. “2008 was a really difficult season”, she says,“very
changeable. I did five solid weeks of vinification in 2008, working 12 hours a day and sleeping 3
hours a night” (she is also mother to twin baby boys).
They started harvesting here on the 27 th September. They carried out their usual selection with a
sorting table in both vineyard and cellar but “it was really essential this year in order to get
quality.”
Nicole took a lighter hand with extraction in 2008, reducing pigeage and fermentation
temperatures to promote fruit expression and avoid the extraction of green or hard tannin. She
also reduced the percentage of new oak which ranges between 20% (for the generic wines) to
50-ish% for the grand cru. “2009”, she says, “will be able to take a lot more oak. It’s very
important for me to retain that freshness of Pinot Noir.”
The first four wines in the line up had been racked and sulphured within the preceeding few days
and were obviously reeling from the experience, with muted fruit and prominent acidity. The
wines from Les Chaumes onwards had not been racked and showed very bright, clear aromatics,
and a pristine, delineated style.
This domaine continues to improve, and it will be fascinating to see how they get on with the
richer materials of 2009, and as the rather inspirational Nicole’s indefatigable work to improve the
vineyards moves into its third year.
SA
Passetoutgrains
Clean, crunchy fruit, powdery tannin and very fresh acidity. This is pretty stripped at the
moment, but should be perfectly sound, and possibly pleasant. (12.5). From 2011/12.
Bourgogne
Red-fruit aromatics, with high acidity and very pure fruit on the palate. Correct, fresh and linear.
(12.5). From 2011.
Bourgogne, Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Clean and correct, but with linear fruit and quite challenging acidity. Tannins, however, are fine,
nicely ripe and quite appetising. Should be quite attractive once it settles down (13). From
2011/12.
Vosne-Romanée
Racked the day before. Clear but muted on the nose. Initially velvety texture, with a core of ripe
fruit hidden in there behind very zesty acidity and quite firm tannin. Decent length, and nice
freshness on the finish. Attractive village Vosne (14.5). From 2012/13.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes
Not racked. Much more expressive aromatics – still muted but high toned, graphite and floral. On
the palate it retains a fairly strict profile, with pure, crunchy fruit and firm but fine tannin. The
finish has some nice pure perfume and decent length. Very good (15.5). From 2014/15.
90

Vosne-Romanée, La Croix Rameau
This is more open and expressive on the nose, with nuanced aromatics of sweet spice and cherry
confit, and an appealing floral perfume. The palate is tightly structured, with a spine of zesty
acidity running through a core of very pure, elegant floral fruit. Tannins are firm but very fine,
and the finish is sneakily long. A big step up into Premier Cru levels of intensity and complexity
with this wine. Particularly good (17). From 2014.
Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts
Not yet racked. Appealing aromatics of spice, graphite and dark berry fruit. There’s a hint of
richness in the tight, upright palate: an initial velvety tannic entry leads onto a fresh minerality
that dominates the palate. Quite a determined, focussed character with a meaty, concentrated
and darkly-fruited finish. Particularly good (17). From 2014/15.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Cras
Inviting aromatics of red and black fruits, leather and spice. Fresh acidity is offset by very rich,
sweet fruit on the palate. Tannins are grippy but nicely fine, and although the mid palate is
tightly coiled, the finish is really quite luscious – long, mineral and with appetising succulence.
This has a lovely balance: it combines a strict, upright structure with just enough richness.
Definite premier cru complexity and panache here. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2014.
Echezeaux
Three parcels: one from Les Rouges du Bas, one from Les Treux, one from Clos Saint Denis. On
the nose this has intense, sweet fruit and exotic spices. The palate is lively and fresh, but with a
rich, ripe core. Tannins are grainy and pretty grippy, and the finish is nicely concentrated and
tangy, with a lively flourish of fresh cherry. Pretty punchy and disciplined Echezeaux. Fine. (18).
From 2016.
*Clos de Vougeot
Very pure and precise aromatics, with notes of spice, rose-water and plum. This has good energy
and grip: tannins are appetisingly fine and dry, and it has a graceful spine of acidity running
through ripe, but not over-ripe, fruit. This appellation can be a little bit louche, but here it has
has been whipped into shape and has an understated strength and persistence to it. Fine+
(18.5). From 2016.
Grands Echezeaux
13 rows. 4-5 barrels a year. Open and appealing aromatics – this adds a high toned florality to
the sweet fruit of the Echezeaux. The palate is less forthcoming, with fresh acidity and firm
tannin, both grape and wood, rippling from entry through to the finish. The finish is long, and
very mineral. An elegant and refined grand cru, with lovely precise fruit. Fine+ (18.5). From
2016.
*La Grande Rue
This has been racked, but several weeks ago. This has a lovely nose – introverted but profound
and dark. On the palate this is intensely floral with a really lovely tannic structure – there’s a fine
mesh here of structure and support. The fruit on the palate is all scent and perfume, with a
whirling, inky character. This really does have that Grand Cru complexity, and paradox in it’s
balance of finesse and power. Finishes very long, with succulent dark fruit and very fresh
perfume. Very fine (19). From 2016/17.
91

Stockists
UK:
Berry Brothers, Richards Walford, Raeburn Wines
92

Domaine Du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée
Louis-Michel comments on the vintage: “2008 is a more traditional Burgundy vintage. It was late,
on the 27 th September. We had a small harvest and yes there was some selection so the
rendement was 30% less than usual, but that was more due to the vintage, rather than
selection. There were just less grapes. We had the same yield 19-28 hl/ha as in 2007. The 2006
was more like 30-38hl/ha and this is the same in 2009.
We had a very cold winter until early April so the MLF was late i.e. after March. The cellar is
never truely cold here (11-16 degrees), as this is under the house. So a late MLF for us is in
June. I like a long time on the malolactic as it is good to have the wine on the lees undisturbed.
Now I will think of racking in November on the 10 and 11 th as they are ‘fruit’ days and there will
be a good moon. The increasing moon will give the high pressure we want and we will rack the
rest in January and February. After the 2008 vintage I moved entirely to biodynamic production.”
Louis-Michel is clearly very focused in the vineyard. Everything is done by hand and he has a
good team doing this. He pays a great deal of attention to detail. In 2002 Louis-Michel’s team
began ploughing by horse. In 2004 he bought the horse. Now the chap he employed has gone
freelance and does other people’s vineyards as well.
He explains that he is doing all this work, in part, for the next generation. He is the 7 th
generation and maybe his children will be the 8 th . He considers himself part of a chain. “You
cannot make grand vin without putting a lot of money into it. You have to make low yields.”
“To make a nice bag you need quality leather and you expect to pay more for it.”
All the wines are aged in 100% new oak. “We need this for the exchange with the ‘outside’ and
for good chemical stabilization of the wine.” It is incredible that he is using this much on some of
the ‘smaller’ wines and it doesn’t overpower them.
“2008 is between 2001 in style, with similar acidity, which will allow for ageing… and 2000 for the
maturity. It is not an exceptional vintage, but it is a very, very good vintage with very good
tannins.”
Louis-Michel goes from strength to strength. These wines show a good deal of finesse.
SM
Vosne-Romanée
Bright red cherry fruit with a touch of almond. Pure, zesty and lifted. Lovely vibrancy and a
ringing note on the finish. Good (15). From 2012
Vosne-Romanée, La Colombière
Below the house is a 0.6 hectare parcel of 60-80 year old vines. The soil is clay. It is flat. They
have ploughed since 2000 and Louis-Michel thinks the extra dimension comes from the
ploughing.
A sweet succulence of dark cherry fruit. Rounded middle palate with a bit more depth and
concentration. Slightly more velvety with plenty of zingy acidity. The finish is pacy and quite
spicy. Good+ From 2012/12
93

*Vosne-Romanée, Clos Du Chateau
Planted in 1970. This is enclosed by 4 walls, which affects the maturity. It is the end of the slope
with some limestone; a mix of clay and limestone. “It is a cuvée which I love,” remarks Louis-
Michel.
It is blossomy and floral on the nose. Scented across the palate. Quite delicate, precise and very
pretty. Just a suggestion of powdery, chalky minerality on the finish. Pure and fresh finish. Good
to very good. (15.5). From 2013
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Lavières
A very small cuvée.
Dark, scented aroma. Deep bramble fruit. Very fresh. It has silky tannins and a sweet and
succulent middle palate. There is almost a distillation of fruit on the finish which has fresh
vibrancy. Undeniably a Nuits made by a Vosne winemaker. Good to Very Good (15.5). From 2014
*Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes
This is a really tiny 50 year old parcel of 0.12 hectares, well placed just below La Tâche (top
north/west position). Tiny amount.
Wild raspberry aroma. Sweet attack. Very intense with a lovely long line. This is high toned with
a surprisingly tight and chalky spine. A pacy palate to a lithe finish. This is a rather atypical and
good Chaumes. Particualrly good, nudging into fine. (17.5)
“I have tried to focus more on this cuvee,” remarks Louis Michel.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Petits Monts
Darkly red cherry aroma. Very spicy with a touch of marzipan. This has tight and focused palate.
Fine meshed and well knit texture. Plenty of vigour. The finish is long with a touch of spice and a
hint of citrus. Nudging into Fine. (17.5-18). From 2014
*Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots
This is another new wine for the domaine in 2006
This warm slightly scented aroma. It has a succulent, generous attack and an intense middle
palate. It has plenty of fruit, which has lovely clarity. Really vibrant and lucid quality and a pacy
finish. I like this. It is elegant and streamlined. The shape focuses in and it becomes very precise.
Lovely finish. Fine to fine+. (18-18.5) From 2015
Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées
This is just a one barrel cuvée. “We don’t sell it. It is just for charities.” Selected whole cluster
about 20%, as opposed to 2007 when it was 100% whole cluster. Only the ripest bunches were
used.
Slightly toasty, sunny and open. Quite nicely focused on the palate and a fresh finish. It has good
energy. Quite fine tannins, well knit and and peppery; notes of white pepper. A reasonably long
line. Particularly good. (17). From 2015
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Cras
Situated between Boudots and Richemone. 50-70 year old vines. Louis-Michel started ploughing
here in 2006
Spot of reduction. The palate is slightly austere, channelled tight and focused. There are purple
and violet aromatics. Good tension and a high pure line running above. Fine and taut tannins.
Quite strict for North side NSG. Direct and focused finish. Firmly Fine. (18) From 2015
94

Vosne-Romanée, Les Reignots
This they started ploughing in 2002 with the horse. “Here we have the real effect of the
sloughing,” remarks Louis-Michel.
Heady perfume. A seductive and inviting wine. Very purple and spicy. The velvet attack gives
way to a more muscular, but toned, palate. It has vigour and intensity. There is richness, power
and depth to the palate with many nuances. It certainly has a flamboyant personality and some
serious structure. There is plenty of muscle on the finish. Fine to very fine (18.5). From 2015.
Echézeaux
Dark smooth aroma with low toned spice. It is more reserved than Les Reignots. There are hints
of mocha, spice and dark chocolate, but is slightly inscrutable on the attack. However the middle
of the palate clearly defined. The tannins are finely grained. It is focused. It becomes strict on
the finish which is linear and precise and exceedingly long. This really shows itself on the finish.
It’s a very good Echézeaux. Possibly very fine. (18.5-19) From 2016
*La Romanée
0.8452 hectares.
This is at first rather reserved and then reveals its perfume on the aroma. It slips gently and
discreetly across the palate, but what an underlying intensity which carries it to a very fine,
superbly long and perfumed finish. The texture is of finest silk and the fruit has an iridescent
purity. It has a beautifully streamlined and very consistent palate. This is quite possibly
outstanding…such a finish. (19.5-20) From 2016
Stockists
UK:
USA:
UK & USA:
Justerini & Brooks; Richards Walford.
Vinalia, CA; Wines Unlimited.
Contact Selections Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France.
95

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Vosne-Romanée
Most of the reds here had been recently racked, 10 days before our tasting.
Domaine Méo-Camuzet began their 2008 harvest on 27 th September. Jean-Nicolas Méo describes
it as a vintage with fresh acidity and good weight.
Compelling wines.
SA
Négoce Wine – Méo-Camuzet Frères et Soeurs
Marsannay
Initially restrained, but very pure and fine on the palate. High toned wild strawberry and very
fine, silky tannin. Good length. Really alluring and charming Marsannay. Good (15). From
2011/12.
*Fixin
This has not yet been racked, and is accordingly much more open and forthcoming.
Very expressive on the nose, with elegant notes of strawberry and blackberry fruits. As with the
Marsannay, this has very pristine, bright fruit, and refined but attractively resistant tannin. It is
elegant but structured, and still manages to retain that wild, brambly Fixin fruit. (15.5). From
2012.
Gevrey-Chambertin
Restrained but broad aromatics of black fruit, spice and wood smoke. On the palate the tannic
profile is hearty and robust with immediate but juicy grip. The finish, though, is finely textured
and suave, with lovely freshness and intensity. Very good (16). From 2012/13.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges , Les Perrières
Very sweet fruit here on an expressive nose. There’s an unforced generosity to the aromas
throughout this wine. On the palate, a fresh, vibrant strike of blackberry and dark fruit is
structured by tannin this is both firm and very fine - no rough edges here. This has high-toned
aromatics, but is gently plumped by a core of ripeness. Very elegant, aromatic Nuits. Fine (18).
From 2014/15.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuesselottes
Restrained aromatics with hints of slate and dark fruit. Very mineral on the palate – right from
the attack. This wine is really not interested in being fruity. Acidity is very lively but is offset by a
core of ripeness. The fine and delicately grainy tannins here are really woven into the wine. Long,
stony and dark on the finish. Intense and streamlined, but still pretty forceful. Particularly good
to fine (17.5). From 2014/15.
96

Domaine Wine
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Blanc, Clos St Philibert
Very bright and mineral with hints of lemon sherbet. Lovely mouthfeel, with a supple, slinky
texture. Very zesty and savoury on the finish – nice tension between richness and mineral
freshness here. Exemplary stuff. Very attractive (14.5). From 2011.
Vosne-Romanée
Restrained but alluring aromatics of delicate florality and cherry stone aromatics. On the palate,
this is very deliberate and focused, with tannins that are sleek and evenly dispersed. Mineral and
delicately tense. Sweet, dark fruit swoops round at the finish. Lovely refinement for a village
wine. Very good (16). From 2012.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes
Delicate, finely etched aromatics with floral and mineral notes. On the palate this has a
beautifully slinky entry. Great sense of movement - unfurling, graceful and purposeful. Tannins
are firmly present throughout but are really interwoven through the wine. It has a high-toned
perfume and a discreet core of ripe dark fruit. Very long, sleek and integrated finish. Fine to very
fine (18.5). From 2014/15.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Boudots
This has brooding aromatics of dark fruit and the char grill. This is long, intense and direct with
very inky, graphite fruit. More forceful than the Perrieres, with forthright but still elegant tannins.
It opens out on the finish into expressive, intense, mouth-staining smoky fruit. Fine (18). From
2014.
*Echezeaux
This has an expressive and hedonistic character on the nose. Scented and perfumed, with
aromas of rose petal and turkish delight. On the palate the tannins are really coated in ripe, but
pristine, vibrant fruit. Generous but sinuous on the mid palate before a lovely pacy ride into a
very long, intense, fragrant finish. Super elegant Echezeaux. Very fine to outstanding (19.5).
From 2016.
Clos De Vougeot
This has not yet been racked. Solo-voiced. Really explodes onto the palate. Voluminous but still
very well-disciplined, with enlivening acidity throughout. It has a hugely concentrated core of
pristine fruit. Richly forthcoming. But this is still one of the most delineated Clos de Vougeot I’ve
tried. Very fine (19). From 2015/16.
Vosne-Romanée, Brûlées
Not yet racked. This has darker aromatics with hints of spice and coffee. Much rounder and more
ample than the other Vosne in this line up. Very welcoming actually, with fuzzier tannin on the
entry and a more obvious fruit. But the finish pulls it all back in. Very deep, dense and secretly
structured. Less strict and more up for it. Unforced intensity. Fine to very fine (18.5). From
2014/15.
Vosne-Romanée, Cros Parentoux
This has been racked. Utterly beguiling aromatics here. Very layered and intricate on the nose.
All quite haunting though, because it’s not exactly expressive. On the palate the entry has real
complexity of texture – silky but also dense. There’s a core of very ripe, dark, kirsch-scented
fruit. Real sense of dynamism in here – energy and life. Shifting aromatics. Finishes almost
97

sumptuously, but still very high-toned aromatically. Lots of lovely paradox. Very fine (19). From
2015.
Richebourg
Not yet racked. Beautifully fresh and vital. Haunting aromatics of graphite and black, black fruit.
Really fine entry onto the palate – liquorice, minerality, graphite and stone. Silky soon becomes
purposeful, however. There’s really intense tannin here – but it’s absolutely macerated in this
dark, essential fruit. Very dense, compact and distilled. Determined, purposeful and self-assured.
Will take years to unpick, but then out comes that haunting perfume on the finish. Outstanding
(20). From 2017.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Berry Bros & Rudd; Fields Wine Merchants; Richards Walford;
Boston Wine Co.; Garnet Wines; Kermit Lynch
98

Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Vosne-Romanée
“It was a challenge in 2008,” remarks Marie-Andrée. “I feel it is an achievement. The 2008 has
the precision of Pinot Noir. Just at the beginning of the fermentation we were surprised with the
purity of the fruit. The weather has been difficult in 2006, 2007 and 2008 and yet we are
surprised each year. We work a lot before the harvest. We harvested at the end of September
(from the 25th to the 30th). We had time to do a selection in the vineyard. We did the initial
selection here cutting out the botrytis. In Clos de Vougeot we lost the equivalent of one barrel in
de-selection in the vineyard, but we had less sorting on the triage table. It is better to do it in the
vineyard. A bad grape is like a lemon in the fruit bowl in the kitchen. If you leave it, it quickly
infects the surrounding fruit.”
Overall however there was just a little less production. It was not so drastic. It was like 2006.
They made 105 barrels in total.
“The bottling is a little late because of the late MLF. It is the first time in 20 vintages we have
seen such a long MLF.” Marie-Andrée thinks that the bacteria may have been weakened and
washed off by the rain. So there were fewer bacteria for tough job of converting a high level of
malic acidity.
Marie-Andrée comments that the acidity is balanced in the final wine because the tartaric was
high at the beginning. After the MLF, despite the conversion of lot of malic, there is a good level
left.
pH: 2008 at harvest the pH was 3.1-3.2 and after MLF it will be around 3.4 average (Some are
just finishing).
Compare this with 2003 for example (a very low acid vintage) at harvest the pH was about 3.4
and after MLF it was 3.6-3.7.
“The 2008 is a little like 2001 because of the precision of the fruit. It is not sweet vintage, more
nervous than 2002 or 2006. Maybe a little like 1997, for the precision and the level of acidity and
fineness.”
For the quality of the fruit, it is close to 2006, so I worked it approximately like the 2006 in the
cuverie. I consider it as the same level of quality. The 2008 has a little more acidity, but the
quality of the grapes is the same.”
Delicious wines. The combine elegance with intensity and substance. I could give a star to
everything here.
SM
*Bourgogne
In 1935 the vines for the Bourgogne were declassified from Vosne-Romanée status, but Georges
Mugneret’s father always maintained that he was happy to have some good Bourgogne as an
entry level to the portfolio.
This has a dark, forest fruit aroma. Good intensity and firm tannin structure. Rounded body with
a dark, juicy finish which has notes of pepper and dark chocolate. Delicious. Top notch. (14)
From late 2011/12
99

Bourgogne 2007
Very floral, succulent and fluid. It has good bite though with some crunchy red fruit underneath.
Lovely zesty Pinot Noir. Score 14. from 2010
*Vosne-Romanée
Vivid red cherry and lifted fruit aroma. Pouncing fruity attack; cherry and a touch of almond.
Beautifully rounded middle palate, plump and enrobed with soft tannins; slightly voluptuous and
the finish is rich and seductive. Top notch. (16) From 2012/13
Vosne-Romanée 2007
This is floral and scented. It wafts gently. It has lightness and balletic quality. The tannins are
very fine. There is substance here while it is very engaging and pretty. Pure on the finish. Score
16. From 2012
*Nuits-Saint-Georges
2 barrels.
This has intense cherry character with a touch of liquorish. Tight slice on the attack; tightly
grained and woven texture; clear fruit with lots of vigour. Spicy and exotic, but very also elegant.
The direct energy comes though on the finish which is direct, channelled and sustained. Top
notch village wine with excellent typicité. Very good. (16). From 2013/14
*Chambolle-Musigny, Les Feusselottes
Very lifted; a rose petal haunting perfume. It sweetly drifts onto the palate with hints of dried
petal and gun-smoke. It is fluid and supple. This rippling fruit and texture is underscored by cool
stony minerality which elongates the palate, finishing on a mineral bite. Particularly good to fine.
(17.5-18) From 2013.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Feusselottes 2007
Cherry blossom; a very evocative and sensual aroma. There is a delicacy; a lacy quality, pure and
fine. Lovely shimmering structure. It quivers with fine, sparking minerality on the long, cool
tapering finish. Score 18. from 2012
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots
Breadth and density; sumptuous darkly spicy coupled with glossy richness, flecked with graphite.
The palate is underscored by slately minerality, which stretches the palate. Very good tension.
Particularly Good+ (17.5). From 2013/14
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots 2007
Dark, scented perfume. Quite plump on the attack. Velvet cloaking tannins. Smooth muscularity
links with ripe bramble fruit. It has a suave finish. Score 18. From 2012/13
Echezeaux
Compact aroma, exotically spiced. It is very well knit and tightly grained with notes of mandarin
and white pepper. It has vibrant acidity and vigour. Plenty of extract. The fruit is dense and the
tannins are bold, but well managed. The finish is very well sustained. Fine+ (18.5) From 2014
Echezeaux 2007
This has subtlety and wonderful fragrance. It combines firm structure with finesses. There is dark
fruit shot with bright minerality and a current of energy which ripples to the finish. Lucid and
intense. Score 18.75. From 2013
100

*Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru
This is the young vine Ruchottes. This went under a village lable for 5 vintages and will probably
go under premier cru for 5 vintages, before it makes it into the grand cru. The vines were
replanted in 2000. It was the ‘fin’ selection from the ATVB. They work the soil to help the roots
get deeper and deeper. There are a lot of rocks here, so the roots need a helping hand.
Light, quite delicate peony perfume. The palate has a certain translucency. It blossomy. What
comes though is a growing strength and substance. A firm, bright and quite exuberant core of
minerality really stretches the finish. It just lacks the middle depth of palate and gravitas for
grand cru, but it is delicious. Fine (18)
*Ruchottes-Chambertin
This is the old vines.
Seductively scented with dried petal and musk rose. Very intense. It has a harmony and a
rippling sensuality and effortlessness. However there is also serious structure. It is underpinned
by a tight, cool reserved and mineral core. This is a wine to think about. It has a spiritual quality.
A nervousity. The finish quivers long and fine. Very Fine indeed (19-19.5). From 2014
*Clos De Vougeot
The roots are now getting deeper. Marie-Andreé’s father replanted this in 1954. She notices the
evolution in the quality of the wine with the growing age of the vine.
Dark fruit aroma. The fruit is dense, powerfully compact and the texture is sleek. It has breadth
and gravitas. It is a serious Clos Vougeot with powerful, sustained finish, but it also has the
elegance and finesses of the domaine. Very Fine. (19) From 2014
Stockists
UK:
USA:
H & H Bancroft; Berkmann Wine Cellars; Haynes, Hanson & Clark; Lay & Wheeler Ltd.;
Lea & Sandeman; Howard Ripley.
Esquin Imports Inc.; Ideal Wine & Spirits Co. Inc.; North Berkeley Imports; Michael
Skurnik Wines; The Stacole Co. Inc.; Vintner Select; The Wine Company.
101

Domaine De La Romanée-Conti, Vosne-Romanée
Bernard Roblet the cellar master points out that it is a very small harvest; 30-40% less because
of the tries. The north wind was important against the development of the botrytis and for
concentration. It lasted for three weeks and “it saved the vintage.” In August the wines did the
malolactic fermentation.
I much prefer these to the 2007s.
SM
Red
Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru
Floral aroma with a haunting perfume of wild strawberry. Engagingly sweet attack, blossomy with
a delicate hint of white flower. It dances with grace across the palate. Perfumed on the palate
with sensuality and delicacy. Vivacity underlies the gorgeous fruit. A sweet and pure finish. Fine.
(18) From 2012/13
Echezeaux
Fine dark cherry aroma with a hint of wild flower. Intense fruit on the attack. Vivid cherry
fruit with a svelte texture and elegant rippling movement to a long, tapering, perfumed and silky
finish. This is an Echézeaux with delightful delicacy, intensity and length. Fine to very fine. (18.5)
From 2014
Grands Echézeaux
This has darker, deep purple aroma with hints of black chocolate. Slightly hidden. It is satin
versus the silk of the Echézeaux. There are more assertive, but very finely grained tannins. It has
more muscle, but it is sensual, smooth and beautifully toned. The finish is strong and rich, yet
superbly elegant. Very fine. (19) From 2015/16
Romanée-Saint-Vivant
Very scented, lifted and quite heady. Lucid, pure clear with a ringing note. This has wonderful
vivacity, shot with bright flecks of minerality which accentuate the perfume. It is graceful and
shimmering woven with fresh acidity. Great finesses; a quintessential perfumed and finelytextured
pinot. Very fine to outstanding. 19.5. From 2016
Richebourg
Almost inscrutable aroma with the sensation of hidden depths. This ripples seductively onto the
palate. It is deceptive for this generosity envelops a muscled, honed and toned strength. It is
sleek and assured. There is latent power couched in velvet. The tannins are so shammy-smooth
and woven the wine I almost forgot to mention them. They are already an integral part of the
texture. Splendid finish. Again there is a scent, almost just a sensation of aromatics, which
carries the finish. Outstanding. (20) From 2017
La Tâche
This is dark and battened down on the aroma. A wine with immediate substance and grip on the
attack. It is tremendously deep, channelled and architectural. This has a monumental structure,
but at the same time it has great poise, restraint and presence. The finish is pure, mineral and
direct with splendid persistent. It combines dynamism with precision. Outstanding. From 2016
102

La Romanée-Conti
Perfume of musk rose, wafting and haunting. There is something intangible. It glides effortlessly
on the palate. It has a gauzy top note, rippling with the finest silk and subtly scented. It is
sensual, but refined and delicately, intricately textured. The acidity is woven brightly into the
fabric of the fruit. A sublimely light and graceful wine with great intensity on the finish which
ends with a poignant note of dried rose petal. Sensational. Outstanding. (20). From 2016
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Contact the UK agents: Corney & Barrow. John Armit Wines; Berry Bros & Rudd;
Eldridge Pope; Fine & Rare Wines Ltd.; Justerini & Brooks; Lay & Wheeler; Planet Wine
Ltd.; Reid Wines.
Wilson Daniels Ltd.
103

Domaine De L’Arlot, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Prémeaux
I tasted with Olivier Meureot (‘general right-hand man’) and Sylvain Pellegrenelli (‘executive
vineyard chief’)
Although 2008 acidity levels are similar to those of 2006, 2008 is characterised by firmer tannin.
Acidity, tannin and colour are all higher than in 2007. In their case, they believe, 2008s have
more matter, more substance, than the two preceding vintages. Potential alcohol levels in the
grape were between 13 and 14%.
Here, too, yields were reduced (to an average of 29hl/ha) as strict selection against botrytis was
essential. Sylvain, vineyard chief, explains “We have a very tight selection here. The first is in the
vineyard – all our pickers are trained to select the fruit at that point. If they have to take 3 cuts
at a bunch, that’s fine. We don’t urge them to go more quickly. Olivier (Leriche, the technical
director) trains them in what we expect, and oversees the cutting. And then we do a second
selection when the grapes arrive at the winery.”
Harvesting started on the 27 th September, with the youngest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines
picked first. It finished on the 4 th October.
Olivier explains that they will set their prices at the end of this year, but that their policy is to
maintain, as far as possible, an even price across recent vintages – even with the challenge of
the stingy quantities of 2008. They routinely withhold a sizeable quantity of every vintage to age
at the domaine and release with bottle age; these are sold at higher prices and are not only an
expression of the domaine philosophy that today most red Burgundy is drunk too young, but also
evidence of the ageing capacity of these refined, elegant and subtly-styled wines.
SA
White
Nuits-Saint-Georges, La Gerbotte
This is from the youngest vines – average age 12 years - of the Clos de l’Arlot blanc. Very bright
and clear, this has attractive aromatics of almond and a sort of sweet citrus, reminiscent of
Amalfi lemons. On the palate it is gently mineral, with a soft weight, ripe fruit and enlivening
acidity. Good (15). From 2012.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos De L’Arlot, Blanc
On the nose this is very lively, with zesty, herbal aromatics. The texture is refined: silky and
attractively slithery, but not at all heavy. Broad but mineral on the palate, with tangy lemon
sherbet character on the finish. Long, characterful, zesty and mouthfilling. Particularly good (17).
From 2012/13.
Red
*Côte De Nuits Villages, Clos Du Chapeau
This was racked in July. Notably bright and clear. Zippy, lively and very pure red cherry strike.
Suavely textured, with a hint of spice. Very well integrated acidity and tannin here – this is not at
104

all rustic, or green, and has a lot of polish for a Côte de Nuits Villages. Very good for this level
(14.5). From 2011/12.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Le Petit Arlot
This Premier Cru is from the Clos d’Arlot, but from young vines planted in 2001.
Again, a notably clear, deep colour. The attack has a very pure primary strike, with appetising
but supple tannin. On the palate that purity of red and black cherry fruit is sustained. This is
quite substantial, but manages to be elegant, fresh and zesty at the same time. Just a kiss of
new oak here – that young vine exuberance really sings out in the fruit, and is very disarming.
Very good (16). From 2012/13.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Petits Plets
This Premier Cru is from the young vines of the Clos des Forêts: i.e., between 15-19 years old.
Lots of gas (the malo finished just a week ago), but there is really pure, exuberant Pinot fruit
beneath. The palate is pretty structured and dense: a firmly tannic strike opens onto lively but
very dark and spicy black cherry fruit, and succulent but firm tannins power through to a long
and mineral finish. Particularly good (17). From 2013/14.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de L’Arlot
This was racked and sulphured in July. Restrained aromatics. On the palate this is very fresh,
very tight, and very linear. Intensely mineral and floral, with a supportive mesh of very fine,
particulate tannin and high toned red and black berry fruits. Long, light footed, intriguing and
persistant. Particularly good to Fine (17.5). From 2014/15.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos Des Forêts Saint-Georges
Hugely expressive and intensely scented on the nose. (Olivier responds that they used a high
proportion of whole bunches from old vines in this wine in 2008, which promoted this expressive,
aromatic quality). It is, though, very structured on the palate with grippy but succulent tannin,
intense spicy, black fruit and a lively acidity. Muscular, dense and concentrated, but still with a lot
of finesse. Very long, and definitely fine (18). From 2015.
Vosne-Romanée, Suchots
Paler garnet, rather than ruby. This is restrained on the nose, with delicate and high-toned
aromatics. Pretty austere on the palate with notable acidity and firm albeit fine tannin – this has
a lean, athletic structure. Much more marked by new oak (40% says Sylvain) than the previous
wines. Has the concentration on the finish, but much harder to read at this stage than the Nuits.
Should be particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2015.
*Romanée-Saint-Vivant
100% whole bunch. The malo has just about finished, and (unsurprisingly) there is quite a lot of
carbonic gas on this wine, making it very muted on the nose. But on the palate – aha! this has
real coiled intensity. Super intense, with huge ripeness of dark, mineral, kirsch and mocha.
Structured by a fine mesh of very firm but ultra fine tannin. The finish pulls it all back in – this is
dense but very tight, and will need time. Very fine (19). From 2016.
We also tasted some older wines from half bottle:
Nuits-St-Georges, Clos des Foret 2004
Very bright and very pale. Tertiary, evolved aromatics of old rose, dried herb and strawberry
spice – attractively vegetal. Particularly lovely texture – refined, elegant and caressing on entry,
this builds to a gently firm tannic grip just saved from dryness by a flourish on the finish, which is
long and spicy. A great success for the vintage. 17.5
105

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de L’Arlot 2002
Bright, rich garnet colour. On the nose this retains youthful but evolving aromatics of ripe red
cherry, scent and blossom. Lovely core of very concentrated, very pure, confit-fruit. This is rich
but not weighty, and is enlivened by a haze of acidity. Finishes with a fresh, vibrant flourish. This
is fine, and still has lots more to say I think. Fine. 18. (Oliver remarks that he thinks their 2008
will develop along these lines –that would be nice!)
Stockists
UK: Anthony Byrne Fine Wines; Corney & Barrow; Goedhuis & Co.; House of Townend; Lay &
Wheeler; Howard Ripley; Gerard Seel Ltd.; T & W Wines Ltd; The Wine Society.
USA: Jeroboam Wines; Burgundy Wine Co.; Chambers & Chambers; Classic Wine Imports Inc.;
Ex-cellars Wine Agencies Inc.; Old Vine Imports; Co.; Selection Becky Wasserman, Le
Serbet, France.
106

Well defined wines with clarity and energy.
SM
Domaine Robert Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Bourgogne
Dark, hedgerow fruits with a hint of coffee, tar and spice. Zesty and energetic. Darker and leaner
than some. Slight gamey note on the finish. Pleasant to attractive. (13.5). It will be bottled in
March. From late 2010
*Nuits-Saint-Georges
This has pure and streamlined fruit. A direct, nicely edged and very bright palate. Fine tannins.
There is energy and vivacity and clarity. Delicious. Good+. (15.5) From 2012
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots
Lovely blackberry aroma with blackberry and spice on the palate. Supple entry, before it tightens
and becomes more austere and focused. A good balance of lively, bright bramble fruit and more
serous tannic structure. The finish is firm and of good length. The acidity is nicely woven in the
wine and lifts the finish. Particularly good (17). From 2012/13
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Perrières
The palate has wild bilberry fruit. Slightly wider and it focuses to a tighter and more mineral
palate. Quite shaley and gravely and much more savoury on the end of the palate than the
Chaignots. Excellent spirit and energy and follow though. Elegant. Particularly good to fine.
(17.5) From 2012/13
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Pruliers
It has purple fruit; a ripe blueberry aroma. The attack is dense and full. The middle palate
couples energetic freshness with weighty, dense substance. It finishes with plenty of vibrant and
succulent fruit. The smoothly muscular tannins sit very neatly, cushioned in the fruit. It has a well
sustained dark, plumy fruit finish. Fine. (18). From 2012/14
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Cailles
Very elegant streamlined, fluid palate. It is even and harmonious. It flows gently and discreetly
with an edge of cool, even cold mineral. There is finesse to the structure and the tannins are fine
grained and polished. A refined Nuits-Saint-Georges. Fine to fine+. (18-18.5) From 2012/13
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Vaucrains
This is dense, meaty, firm and full. Powerful wine with dark, quartzy, grippy fruit. There is
excellent intensity here and the finish is grippy and powerful and well sustained. A more
muscular wine, certainly, but with the clarity of fruit and expression which are the hallmarks of
this domaine. Fine+ (18.5) From 2013/14
The next wines are still going through MLF (about 95%), and were really quite reduced.
107

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Bousselots
Obviously this is at a very different stage in its evolution as it is not though MLF, is not racked
and is somewhat reduced, but what comes through is plumy, juicy fruit on the palate and an
ample roundness. There is decent substance and the supple tannins are supportive. Particularly
Good. (17). From 2012.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Roncières
This suffers as the above, but it has a very good balance of dense, intense rich fruit and a
defined muscularity coupled with a stony edge. There is an edge of austerity and reserve on the
finish. This has complexity and intensity and the finish is very long. Fine to Fine+ (18-18.5). From
2013/14
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges
This is much reduced; however the structure was all apparent. There is an inherent elegance to
this firm, dense and substantial wine. The tannins are woven in a rich, supple strong thread
through the wine. It has a powerful, complex, knitted character and a very long and suave finish.
Fine to very fine. It combines power with elegance. (18-5-19) From 2014
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Fine & Rare Wines Ltd.; H & H Bancroft; Justerini & Brooks; The Wine Treasury; Seckford
Wines.
Kermit Lynch. Ideal wine and IB Imports
108

Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron, Nuits-Saint-Georges Prémeaux
Despite the Autumnal north wind and late sun that characterised both vintages, Alain Meunier
finds his 2008s ‘very different’ to his 2007s. In particular he notes 2008’s higher acidity and
tannin levels. His yields were reduced by an average of 30%, predominantly by the uber-strict
selection necessary to counter the botrytis that affected this vintage. They took a light hand with
extraction, reducing both pigeage, maceration and fermentation temperature to avoid tough or
green tannin.
Alain’s planning a longer elevage than in 2007 – the denser materials and matter in 2008 require
it.
These were well-made wines with notably pure fruit and good terroir expression. The house style
favours liberal doses of new oak, but on the whole the wines have the density to handle it. After
10 years of organic viticulture, Alain feels that they are really starting to see the rewards in terms
of the concentration and density of fruit character, and terroir nuance.
SA
Bourgogne
Nice concentration of dark, blackberry-ish fruit here, and a notably smooth texture. Very pleasant
(13.5). From 2011.
*Côte De Nuits Villages, Les Vignottes
Malo finished, not yet racked. 50% new oak. Good concentration and attractive zesty acidity with
very bright, lifted cherry fruit. The texture has a satisfying bite. Very good length for this level.
Very attractive (14.5). From 2011/12.
Chambolle-Musigny
Very appealing floral fragrance here beneath a touch of reduction. This is racy and elegant, with
a fresh acidic strike, finely grained tannin and a long, scented finish. Good (15). From 2013.
Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru
Sweet, smoky new oak dominates the nose at the moment, but there is good depth and
concentration on the palate with very pure black cherry and cherry stone character. Elegantly
substantial, with fine but densely layered tannin and a long, mineral, uplifting finish. Pretty tight
and structured. Very good to particularly good (16.5). From 2015.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Fleurières
Dark, deep, meaty aromatics. Gently chewy texture, with good depth of tannin, and long, smoky,
charred cherry finish. Very good length and density for a village wine. Very good (16). From
2013/14.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Boudots
Very restrained on the nose. Good strike and energy on the palate, with particularly fine (but
supporting) tannin. This really builds to a long, dark inky finish – black cherry and wood smoke.
Focussed, stony and mineral on the finish. This has the layers and pent-up complexity of a very
good Premier cru. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2014.
109

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaboeufs
Much more expressive than the Boudots, with a broad, smoky, meaty aromatic character. This is
dense, concentrated and long, with intensely scented brambly fruit on the finish. I prefer the
polish of Boudots, but this is a pretty impressive, mouth filling Nuits for those who like a burlier
style. Particularly good (17). From 2014.
*Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaumonts
Scented and exotic beneath a hint of reduction. Hugely appealing texture : soft, silky and
alluring. Lovely concentration of floral fruit (violets, black cherry, blossom) and very long,
scented, light-footed finish. Pure and scented withal. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2014.
Clos De Vougeot
Alain uses 100% new oak, and works with 2 toneless and 6 different origins of wood. Rich, sweet
and enticing on the nose, with notes of prune, plum and wood smoke. Much softer acidity here,
and a hugely seductive ‘come and get it’ style. Very expansive, warm, gently spicy and embracing
on the of finish. Fine (18). From 2015.
*Romanée-Saint-Vivant
In 2008 this vineyard yielded just 28 hl/ha. Stunning layers of aromatics here, with a deep,
brooding quality on nose. Layered but tight: violets, spice, inky black morello cherry and kirsch.
Sumptuous tannin and texture, with good drive and acid-enlivened energy - really long, exciting,
full yet focused. Lovely texture of tannin – soaks up all the oak. Fine to very fine (18.5). From
2016/17.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Enotria
Scott Paul Wright Oregon ; J. A. O Wine Importers
110

Domaine Henri Gouges, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Greg Gouges has been working alongside father Pierre and Uncle Christian for years. After a long
stint in the vineyards he helped Christian make the 2007s, and from 2008 was responsible for
wine-making, with Christian supervising the sorting table (a particularly important job in this
vintage) and Pierre the pickers. After several years of trials, 2008 was the year in which the
domaine switched to fully organic viticulture.
The domaine style has evolved. A new winery, built for the 2007 vintage, uses gravity flow
systems; as Greg puts it “We have removed every pump and every piece of machinery…we do
not want to have any hard tannins from seeds or broken skins getting into the wine.” Greg has
also tweaked the oak regime: increasing the % of new oak slightly from 10 to 15%, and reducing
the replacing the very old (5 year +) barrels with 1 and 2 year old. On this showing the wines
remain structured, nuanced and impeccably balanced, but with slightly more accessible tannin,
and expressive fruit.
Greg also reports late malos in 2008, but all had finished and the wines had been racked by the
time of our tasting. They will be bottled from February 2009.
SA
Bourgogne
50% of the wine comes from a parcel at the top of the slope, which is blended for its mineral
aroma. Four small parcels from down the slope on the south side are used for their depth and
tannins. Fresh, bright and clear with refreshing acidity and pure crab-appley fruit. Clear, clean
very pleasant. Nicely crunchy tannin. Very attractive (14.5). From 2011/12.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges
This is a blend of 7 different lieux-dits. Bright, translucent garnet. Hugely appealing balance of
fruit and tannin here: primary, pure, crunchy red cherry on aromatics and palate, with suave but
nicely biting tannin. Lively acidity provides energy all the way through to a very good finish. Lots
of style and interest for a village Nuits. (16). From 2013.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots
A little bit reduced. Again, bright but not densely coloured. Lively and energetic, with very bright,
nuanced fruit – cherry-scented and floral. Very fine tannin – particularly fine for a Nuits, but then
Chaignots is on the Vosne side of the appellation. Focussed, elegant, high-toned and pretty
cerebral. Very mineral on the long, tight finish. Fine (18). From 2015/16.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chaines Cartaux
1 hectare. This by contrast is on the far south side, above Les Saint-Georges on quite a steep
slope. Chaines are stones and cartaux is a small barrel. As Christian Gouges points out this
vineyard has a thin top soil; the name may be derived from the little stones he thinks. The
majority of this small production is exported to the USA
Spicier aromatics here – notes of fig and plum. Much broader and more obviously rich than the
Chaignots, with dark, brooding fruit, firm tannins and a suede-like texture. Intense, forceful but
not at all hard or astringent. Fine, in a big, bold style (18). From 2014/15.
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Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos Des Porrets Saint-Georges
Very alluring and deeply rooted aromatics – spice, mocha, black cherry. Already this is expressive
and very inviting. Intensely pure essence of Pinot Noir. Tannins open the palate – very fine and
initially silky, building to a long and intensely fruit-soaked finish. The fruit here is ripe and
generous, and puts plenty of flesh on the tannic structure. An athletic but voluptuous character.
Fine (18). From 2014/15.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Pruliers
They have two parcels in Les Pruliers – in one the vines average 60 years old, in the other, 40
years. Intense, dark and deep aromatics. Pretty restrained but very slumberingly powerful. Very
mineral and stony – cherry stone – with firm, fine tannin and lots of drive – single-minded. Long,
mouth-staining, effortlessly concentrated. Fine (18). From 2014.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vaucrains
Yield for this premier cru, always low, was reduced to 18hl/ha this year after the selection.
There’s a deep well of restrained, brooding aromatics here. Muted but enthralling. On the palate
this is violet-scented, with notes of graphite and ink. Coiled and focused, with fine, firm tannins
absolutely steeped in dark, concentrated fruit. Hugely long, lively and mouth filling. This will need
time, but is already hinting at it sumptuous, complete personality. Powerful but with finesse. Fine
to very fine (18.5). From 2014/15.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges
This has very intriguing aromatics – more open weave than the Vaucrains – high-toned, violetscented
and mineral. The palate is saturated with succulent kirsch-scented fruit. Tannins are
particularly compelling – firm but fine, assertive yet airy. Very concentrated, coiled and structured
yet all clad in this juicy envelope of intense essence of Pinot. Very dense and concentrated on the
finish, with an uplifting acidic flourish. An iron-fist in velvet glove; this needs time. Very fine (19).
From 2015.
White
Nuits Saint-Georges, Perrières
This appellation lies above Porrets. Henry Gouges was very instrumental in drawing up the AC in
NSG, and the INAO, in recognition of this help, gave him special permission to plant his mutant
pinot in 1936.
Intriguing, sweet and savoury aromatics. Lovely acidity, weight and mineral intensity on the
palate, with a broad, smooth texture and very good grip. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From
2013/14.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
France:
Averys; Flint Wines; Genesis Wines Ltd; Hayman Barwell Jones Ltd.; H & H
Bancroft; O.W. Loeb & Co. Ltd.; Raeburn Fine Wines; Howard Ripley; Anthony
Sargeant Fine Wines; Charles Taylor Wines Ltd. & Montrachet; Frank Ward ltd
Vineyard Brands Inc.
Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France.
112

Domaine De La Vougeraie, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Prémeaux
Pierre Vincent has been the winemaker at Domain de La Vougeraie, which is owned by Boisset,
since 2006. He arrived in 2004 from Jaffelin.
He describes the vintage: “It was very difficult because the quantity was very low. The average
yield was just 25 hl/ha for village and the grand cru yielded 15 hl/ha. This was for two reasons;
the weather was a poor during the summer. There was rain at flowering and then at the harvest
there was more rain and a percentage of bad grapes (botrytis) needing 20-30% de-selection.
The good side of the difficult flowering was a lot of millerandage. There was a high skin to juice
ratio. The Bonnes Mares and the Charmes Charlemagne had 100% millerandage. It was crazy.
We have never seen this before.”
“Although the growing season was very cold, this is good for the maturity of pinot noir. It has a
very long and soft maturity. The number of days from flowering to harvest were 120, which is
good for maturity of polyphenols.”
“It is different from the 2007s. There is more natural concentration in 2008 and the natural
degrees were 12.5-13 degrees. It is all organic and biodynamic.” He is sure this has had an
impact on the maturity. “I am very meticulous with the technical maturity. The polyphenols and
the acidity and sugar are more likely to mature at the same time with the organic wines. In 2008
the tannins were very ripe, both the skin and the pips. It is a very fresh vintage.”
The TA was high for white and red with a high percentage of malic acidity. For this reason the
MLF was very late. It is usual here between February and March, while this year it was May and
August (and the whites were not finished). Pierre likes this as he can age the reds longer bottling
later and ageing with less SO2 in barrel.
Reds:
pH: At harvest it was 3.4-3.5 and after MLF 3.5-3.6.
TA: At harvest it was 6 and after MLF approx 5.
Whites:
pH: At harvest 3- 3.1 and after MLF 3.2-3.3
TA: At harvest 7.0 after MLF4.8. They had a very high proportion of malic compared with 2009.
There was double the malic in 2008 than 2009
Tannins: “Very good because they were very ripe. There was no problem with maturity.” So
Pierre used a long maceration; vatting for 25-28 days, versus 2007 at 23 days. “I prefer to use a
very long maceration with less pigeage.”
In 2008 Pierre used 30% whole bunch for the Bonnes Mares and 50% for the Charmes-
Chambertin. “Because of the millerandage, it was easier to use whole bunch. The bunches had
small berries with plenty of aeration, which were healthy, so it worked well. Working here for 4
years I have noticed that the maturity is good and the stems are ripe. This has enabled me to
use some whole bunch with this we will get more complexity in the wine.” Eventually he will use
some whole bunch – between 20-80% - for all the domaine.
Pierre considers it will be a mid-ageing vintage, perhaps a little bit more than in 2007. “In quality
we can compare the 2008 with 2006 for the Côte de Nuits; it is at the same level. The 2008 is
more powerful for grand cru because of the millerandage. (The 2006 Côte de Beaune was more
difficult). The 2008 is also a little bit like 2002 across the Côte de Nuits, although lesser in terms
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of quality. (But in 2002 here it was Pascal Marchand making the wine and the style has since
changed).
“It is typical a Burgundy vintage with lots of purity. The Pinot Noir reacts well to the fresh
temperature. It will be an interesting and nice vintage.”
I think Pierre is making lovely wine. In the main part they are very elegant and restrained.
SM
*Beaune, Clos du Roi
A very small cuvée with just 3 barrels, although there are normally 5.
Vibrant high toned red aroma. Very fresh attack; singing fruit, zesty, light and soft tannic
structure. It has lovely purity. A pretty wine. Very good+ (16.5) From 2012
*Pommard, Les Petits Noizons
1 hectare with a South East exposition
This is a pretty village wine. Lovely intense blueberry fruit before it focuses in with more grippy
tannins. There is a slightly tarry, liquorish character with a little grip on the finish. An elegant,
fluid village Pommard. The tannin management is excellent and it is bright and zesty. Top notch
village. (15.5) From 2011/12
“I hate hard wine,” says Pierre, “so when I vinify Pommard I only do one pigeage a day and I
stop half way though and then just do an infusion, as I want to make it in an elegant style.”
Beaune, Les Grèves
This is in the middle MLF. It is elegant and supple with pure bright red fruit. It sparkles and is
vibrant. The shape is subtly and smoothly rounded. There are more tannins, but they are very
fine and the finish is long and tapering. A rather refined Beaune, Grèves. Particularly Good to
fine. (17.5-18) From 2012
“I love the wines which are more difficult. This is the last to finish MLF and will be the last
bottling.)
Vougeot, Clos de Prieuré
This is a village lieut-dit and is a monopole. The two hectares are planted in both red and white
(1.2 in red). Pierre gives it a long maceration; always 28 days. “We do not have many tannins in
the grapes,” he says “so we can have a long maceration and no hardness.”
This has a deep, dark fruit with a hint of lead pencil. The attack is firm. There is decent density
and concentration in the middle. The tannins have slight grip and are firmish. It is relatively
bullish with a lightly spicy character and it has a decent finish for a village wine. Good. (15).
From 2011/12
*Gevrey-Chambertin, La Justice
This village wine has a hint of graphite with the dark fruit. It has immediate Gevrey typicité. Edge
of violet on the nose and the attack is sweet. The middle palate has good tension and energy
and is nicely intense for a village wine. It has light, taut tannins; nothing too heavy and the finish
is decent and savoury. Good+ (15.5). From 2012.
Pierre made the comment afterwards, “In the vineyard there is lots of gravel and limestone even
though it is on the flat. People tend to write it off, but it produces this energy.”
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Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Evocelles
2.5 hectares of old 45 year old vines. This is up the top, near Les Goulots, under the forest line.
Joyous red cherry aroma. Sweet attack which is vibrant and juicy. It pounces on the palate. It
has a slightly gravely grip and is attractively, tautly textured. Lively, dancing wine with a tart
cherry finish. Very good. (16). From 2012
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Evocelles
This is the high density planting and is not commercialised. It is planted at 36,000. They make
just 2.5 barrels from the 0.2 hectares which are cultivated entirely by hand. It is not possible to
work it any other way as there are just 50 cm between the vines. It was planted in 2002 and so
is a relatively young vineyard. The project was established to observe the way the vines grow at
this density; ie how they would have been worked in the previous generations. There are just 2
bunches per vine, because of course the vine is much more stressed and those bunches are also
very small because of this stress. It has been vinified separately since 2006 and it makes a more
concentrated, dense wine with higher acidity and tannin. It is a notch up.
Premier Cru
*Nuits-St-Georges, Les Corvées Pagets
This was a difficult vintage here because of the botrytis. It needed 30% of de-selection. “We
were very strict in selection.” Pierre thinks the high incident of botrytis may be because of more
humidity as the vineyard is under the forest line.
Singing, currant aroma with notes of confiture. It is sweet and well ripened. Very fresh attack.
Energetic palate with lively acidity and a light grip to the tannins. The acidity neatly underpins the
dark, berrish fruit and comes through to lift the finish. Medium weight. An elegant, fruity NSG.
Particularly Good. (17). From 2013.
Nuits-St-Georges, Les Damodes
Sweet, jammy and plumy aroma. The palate has plenty of juicy fruit on the attack, but tightens
to a more austere chatacter. There is more edge here, slightly sappy. The shape is more linear
and direct than Corvées Pagets. Very to Particualrly good. (16.5-17). From 2012/13
*Vougeot, Les Cras
This premier cru has lots of limestone in the vineyard. They sometimes have problems of
chlorosis due to the iron deficiency. 30% whole bunches this year. “The whole bunch has
increased the sensation of pepper.”
Very evocative of a warm raspberry field. Fruity attack, lovely purity and clarity of fruit and fine
tannins; finely grained. Very straight, but there is also good concentration and matter. Lovely,
chalky, salty minerality and excellent drive and vigour on the finish. Fine+ (18-18.5) From
2013/14
Grand cru
*Corton Le Clos du Roi
65 year old vines. 5 barrels rather than 8 barrels. 30% deselection so there was a lot of rot here,
but with selection the result is execllent
Lovely depth of rose-petal fruit; very richly fragrant and the scent carries on the palate, which
has a blossom, petally character. It floats above a dense, austere structure, which shows a firm
core of minerality. This drives the vigous finish, which is very assured and woven with salty
minerality. Fine, nudging in the direction of very fine. 18.5. From 2014/15
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Clos de Vougeot
2 parcels: one in front of the castle of 1.2 hectares and a 0.3 parcel at the bottom. No whole
bunches because of botrytis. Bottled in January as the MLF has already finished.
Quite perfumed. Dense attack. Very pure, vigorous, nicely edged with a good firm core and yet
there is breadth and generosity here too. Nicely expansive though the middle palate. Firm,
savoury, slightly stony finish. Fine+ (18.5) From 2015/16
Bonnes-Mares
30% whole bunches. This is muscular, dense and powerful. It has a great deal of substance.
Dense, broad shouldered with a deep, well sustained finish. Fine to Fine+. (18-18.5). From 2015
Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères
50% whole bunches and very old 80 year old vines. They use this vineyard for massale section.
This is dense, intense and grippy. It has plenty of substance and dark, brooding power; a little
four square perhaps. There is a robust strength and long vigorous follow though. Fine(+). (18-
18.5) From 2015
Musigny
2.5 barrels. 25hl/ha de-stemmed by hand. It takes a whole week working every afternoon.
Although in 2008 Pierre included 30% whole bunches. The only wine here with w100% new
wood. The other grand crus have 70-80%.
Very scented, musty, slightly exotic. This is a significant step up in quality. Very textural with fine
gliding talcy tannins; It shivers in a silky ribbon of fruit. There is excellent intensity and harmony
and a wonderfully long finish. Very perfumed with the scent of old English roses; the essence of
Pinot Noir. Very Fine. (19). From 2014/15
UK: Berry Brothers
US: Veritas; Boisset, USA.
Stockists
116

117

Domaine Bonneau Du Martray, Pernand-Vergelesses
Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière muses over a season that was “in the same profile as the
2007. Although it was tough work in the vineyard with the pressure of mildew rather than
oidium, we had wonderful weather by the end August. There was plenty of time to watch the
evolution.” They harvested from the 3rd October. “The sad thing was that coulure produced a
very small crop.”
Jean-Charles is finding the UK to be a good market still. “The 2007 has been a huge success and
we are now offering the 2008. In the US the people are not in the mood for buying. However the
Asian markets are still expanding.” Italy is fair, whereas it is normally a good market for this
domaine.
SM
Corton-Charlemagne 2008
Pure, ripe citrus aroma with nutty, creamy leesy notes. Rich attack, glossy, dense and succulent.
There is good intensity and focus to this richness. It has freshness rather than firm acidity. It is
channelled and well defined fleshed with ripe citrus fruit and infused with plenty of vigour.
Considerable finish with taut savoury minerality at the end. More vigorous tension and a broader
richness than 2007 when tasted at the same time in its life. Fine+ to very fine. From 2018.
Corton-Charlemagne 2007
Elegant and pacy quality. It has a lovely fresh and vibrant minerality. It is streamlined with pure
and racy vitality and an elegant long finish. It is polished and pure. This is much more expressive
now. With the benefit of the second part of ageing on the lees it has gained refinement. Score
18.5. From 2017
Corton-Charlemagne 2006
This has an assertive, almost muscular strength to the aroma. There is richness, great depth and
concentration. It is ‘dark’ with a tightly layered stony character. It is compact, channelled and
supremely assertive on the finish. This has coiled and vibrant vigour. Great intensity and
masculine power. Score 19.5. From 2016
Red:
Corton, 2008
Slightly delayed MLF by just one month. The final pH is 3.55
Silky velvety aroma. Very seductive onto the palate, deep dark fruit, slight spice, firm, but
smooth tannins and good freshness. There is succulence to the middle palate, but with layered
complexity and a firm, dark underscoring grip. Long finish with a liquorish lift at the end. An
accomplished wine with good structure. Perhaps being on the Pernand side of the hill has its
benefits this year, providing the wine with a bit more tannic grip with plenty of ripe fruit to
balance. Fine+ From 2015
Corton, 2007
The final pH was 3.61
Very perfumed. Lovely juicy fruit woven through with firmish, but smooth tannins. It is has lively,
high toned and floral notes on the palate. It is lighter on the palate certainly. Red fruit, zesty with
a little grip and a vibrant long line. Score 18. From 2014.
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Stockists
UK:
USA:
Contact the agents: Corney & Barrow Ltd.; John Armit Wines; Avery’s of Bristol;
Bennetts Wine Merchants; Berry Bros & Rudd; Bibendum; Andrew Bruce; Direct Wines
Ltd.; Farthinghoe Fine Wine Ltd.; Goedhuis & Co.; Justerini & Brooks; Haynes, Hanson &
Clark; Laytons Wine Merchants; Lay & Wheeler Ltd.; Luvians Bottle Shop; Morris &
Verdin; Christopher Piper Wines; Raeburn Fine Wines; La Réserve; Howard Ripley;
Roberson Wine Merchant Ltd; Tanners Wines Ltd.; Wilkinson Vintners Ltd.; The Wine
Society.
Diageo Château & Estate Wine.
119

Domaine Simon Bize, Savigny-Lès-Beaune
Guillaume Boit is increasingly responsible for making the red, as well as the white, wines here.
He explains that they began harvesting the reds on the 25th September, and the whites from the
30th September.
“In red, we destemmed almost of the grapes in 2008. Normally we use almost all whole bunches,
but this was impossible in 2008 - the stems and seeds were not ripe enough. But there was good
sugar in the grapes - around 13% potential alcohol.”
Most wines, except for the Grand Cru, have been racked into stainless steel, where they’ll remain
until bottling at the end of this year, or the beginning of 2010.
Guillaume says of 2008 “This isn’t a demanding vintage. The tannins are not high or especially
dry. But it’s definitely got more body than 2007. 2007 is lighter – you can drink it quite quickly
while you wait for 2005 and 2006. 2008 village wines will probably drink quite early too. But I
think there’s a bit leap in quality in 2008 from village to premier cru; certainly in Savigny.”
SA
White
All had been bottled in summer 2009, before the vintage.
Bourgogne, Chardonnay
Unoaked – all in cuve. Ripe and easy-going with notes of asparagus and cut apple. Hint of
minerality on the finish. Perfectly reasonable length. Uncomplicated and well-made Bourgogne.
Pleasant (13). From 2011.
Bourgogne, Les Champlains
Gently smoky, savoury aromatics on the nose. Zesty and piquant with a smooth texture and hint
of minerality on the finish. Very pleasant (13.5). From 2011/12.
*Bourgogne, Les Perrieres
Vinified 100% in fût. Fresh aromatics, with notes of lemon zest and a touch of minerality.
Rounded but fresh, with good intensity and length for this level. Very attractive Bourgogne (14).
From 2011/12.
*Savigny-Lès-Beaune Blanc
Appealing aromatics here – fresh and ripe, with notes of grapefruit and minerality. The texture
and weight here is quite seductive. It has a mouth-watering zesty ripeness, and the finish has
good length. Attractive village (14.5). From 2012.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune blanc, Les Vergelesses
Layered and quite complex on the nose with notes of greengage and orange zest. It has a tangy
minerality, focus, and vibrancy. The finish is appetisingly dry and mineral. Very good (16). From
2012/13.
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Corton-Charlemagne
This was still going through the maloloactic fermentation and was very muted on the nose. On
the palate, this is really taut, focussed and nervy, with good concentration. Has good punch and
intensity on the finish, with hints of savoury, salty fruit, and a good length. Fine to very fine.
(18.5). From 2015/16.
Red
Bourgogne, Les Perrières
Fresh, bright red berry fruit. Ripe, easy-going tannin with sweet red fruit on the palate. This has
a very respectable length and a very amiable, juicy style. Very pleasant. (13). From 2012.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Bourgeots
On the nose this has very sweet, strawberry scented fruit. On the palate it has soft, gently
powdery tannin and a moderate concentration of gentle, soft berry fruits. Attractive. (14). From
2012/13.
*Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Grands Liards
This village wine is from a lieux-dit in the heart of Savigny, planted with very old vines.
Deep colour. This has an attractive nose: quite rich, with notes of ripe black fruit. On the palate it
has good concentration and supple, succulent tannin. Really good finish and intensity for a village
wine. (15). From 2013.
*Aloxe Corton Le Suchot
Quite expressive and scented on the nose. On the palate this is svelte, supple and nicely pacy.
Dark concentration of intense, peppery black fruit. This has, energy, pace and good length. Very
good. (16). From 2014.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Serpentières
Appealing aromatics, with a gentle and quite elegant perfumed style. It has a touch of florality,
and both black and red fruit. Tannins are light but elegant, and there is a very nice intensity of
scent through the mid palate and onto the delicately powdery finish. Good to very good (15.5).
From 2013/14.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Marconnets
Aromatically restrained (this finished the malo more recently than the preceding wines). On the
palate it has pure redcurrant fruit, and a bright, elegant perfume. The tannins have a nice crunch
to them, and the finish is fresh and scented. Supple premier cru (15.5). From 2013/14.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Fourneaux
This has a more mineral character, and is straighter, with notes of graphite and green olive. The
tannins are quite grippy here, but are well balanced by the savoury fruit. The finish has mineral
intensity, and nice persistence. Very good. (16). From 2014.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Vergelesses
This has an appealing, forthright spicy richness to the aromatics. (There’s 30% whole bunch here
from very old vines.) This is good: the palate has good density and concentration, with
attractively chewy, succulent tannins which are offset by dark blackberry fruit and spices. The
finish is long and mouth filling, with appetising substance. Very good. (16). From 2014.
*Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Guettes
Restrained on the nose. Very good intensity and depth on the palate here, with notes of dark,
inky graphite. More mineral than fruity, although there is some fruity, spicy richness hiding in the
121

middle. Tannins are elegantly firm, structuring and succulently firm. This has an extra dimension
of textural interest. (And, it turns out, is the only wine to have been made entirely from whole
bunches. Guettes’ high, free-draining soils produced particularly clean, healthy, ripe grapes in
Savigny this vintage.) Very good+. (16.5). From 2014.
Latricières-Chambertin
This finished the malo at the end of August and will remain, undisturbed, in the barrel on the fine
lees until bottling. Guillaume wants to avoid any unnecessary handling.
This is really tight on both nose and palate. Dense and totally uncommunicative on the entry.
Compacted and very reserved – this has an elemental, unformed quality. The finish, though,
shows a lot of promise, with a hugely intense length and tannins that are both ultra-fine and very
tightly compacted. Fine+. (18.5). From 2016.
UK: John Armit Wines
USA: Becky Wasserman
Stockists
122

Domaine Chandon De Briailles, Savigny-Lès-Beaune
The domaine has been in biodynamic viticulture since 2005 and François explains “with
biodynamics we can go further with maturity. The balance of the grapes is much better than
before – the balance of acidity and alcohol is really good.” In 2008 generally they found that
malic acid was quite high. Potential alcohols ranged averaged around 12%, and phenolic maturity
was good, but moderate rather than really ripe.
“Whites were easier [than reds] in 2008 – at least, the selection was a little easier, because
Chardonnay had less botrytis. We did a very intense selection – much more even than in 2007.”
The domaine destemmed a little more than usual and took a delicate hand in the extraction, as,
for example, with punch downs, which were generally reduced to once a day. The wines will be
bottled a little earlier than normal to preserve their fresh fruit and nuanced, elegant structure.
The red wines had all finished malo and remain on the lees in barrel now and for as long as
possible to preserve freshness – probably until bottling.
SA
White Wines
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Aux Vergelesses
This is from the higher part of Vergelesses, just under the woods.
Ripe aromatics with notes of hazelnut and ripe fruit. On the palate this has quite a slithery
texture on the mid palate, but a nicely dry finish. This has gentle acidity and a ripe fruit on the
finish. Good +(15.5). From 2011.
Pernand-Vergelesses, Ile Des Vergelesses
Broader, more mineral aromatics. This is richer and broader too on the palate, with a core of
subtle richness and a honeyed note. It has a racy dryness, with an assertive presence, and has a
juicy, mineral, finish. Very good (16). From 2011/12.
Corton, Blanc
The major part of this comes from Les Bressandes (which the domaine also has planted to Pinot
Noir). Lovely aromatics, with delicate notes of greengage and sea-spray. On the palate this has
good, tangy concentration, with mineral and lemon zest notes from the entry all the way through
to the finish. This is quite round, but it has a refinement about it, and also a secret floral
character. Finishes long and succulent, with notes of hazelnut and gentle honey. Fine (18). From
2015.
*Le Charlemagne
Breezy and exhilarating aromatics of stony minerality and summer hay. Very intense and
focussed on the palate, with has very good concentration and an intense, mouth-watering
minerality. More streamlined, less round, than the Corton, and with very good focus on the long,
dry finish. This has lovely unpeeling layers of interest on the finish, and should be fine to very
fine (18.5). From 2015/16.
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Red Wines
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Aux Fournaux
Delicate but finely scented aromatics of strawberry and dried thyme. Fresh, precise, and lightbodied
with a nice intensity and supple grace. Good to very good (15.5). From 2013.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Lavières
Very restrained on the nose. This is grippier than the Fournaux, with chalky tannin, and a
unshowy depth. Very mineral, linear fruit, well integrated with attractively chalky tannin. Really
very good, in its refined, focussed way (16.5). From 2014.
Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Vergelesses
The soil here is full of red clay, and is rich in iron. A little reductive and closed on the nose. On
the palate this has a full, grainy tannin and a more obvious, dark fruit, which is especially intense
on the attack. This has a grippy intensity and a broad finish. Particularly good (17). From
2014/15.
*Pernand-Vergelesses, Ile Des Vergelesses
Scented and appealing aromatics of rose and redcurrant. Intensely scented and alluring. This has
perfumed fruit really sustained throughout the palate, with firm talc-like tannin and a scented,
sweetly fruited finish. Graceful but intense. Particularly good+ (17.5). From 2014/15.
Volnay, Caillerets
This has perfumed, sweet fruit aromatics with notes of smashed strawberry and florality. It is
tight and restrained on the palate, with a fresh acidity and fine, powdery tannin. The finish is
long, ethereal and mineral. This is pretty jerky at the moment but once it comes together this
should be fine (17.5). From 2014/15.
Corton, Maréchaudes
Restrained but deep on the nose. On the palate it has a smooth, layered tannin from the entry
right through to the finish. The fruit is very unformed and primary at the moment, but will there’s
a full, succulent generosity to the core. There’s a gently peppery lift to the long, scented finish.
Smooth, and actually a very civilised Corton. Fine (18). From 2016.
Corton, Bressandes
Dumb on the nose (quite a lot of reduction today). On the palate this has dark, wild fruit and a
grippy, finely grainy attack. This has a more restrained fruit than the Marechaude, and a dense,
tightly layered tannin. Finishes long, with intensity and zest. Fine (18). From 2017.
*Corton, Clos Du Roi
Delicate but pure aromatics of pastille, anise and sweet, ripe black fruit. On the palate this has
tension and an unfurling quality to it. Fine but succulent tannin, with a rich vein of pure, very
sweet but refined fruit running through it. Lovely finish – very well-knit and harmonised, with
that primary dark fruit coming through at the end. Very fine (19). From 2017.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Haynes Hanson & Clark; H & H Bancroft; Lay and Wheeler; Lea & Sandeman; Tanners
Wines Ltd; Berry Bros; Wine Society
Beaune Imports; David Bowler and Ideal Wine.
124

Domaine Jean-Marc Pavelot, Savigny-Lès-Beaune
Hugues Pavelot explains that Savigny village vineyards were hit by summer hail, reducing yield
and necessitating strict selection in these areas. They use a system of minimal inputs in the
vineyard, aided by a pneumatic sprayer which “disperses the treatments very effectively, and
really helps in controlling the development of disease.”
Overall they took a similar route in 2008 to 2007, with a light extractive hand - the frequency of
punch-downs was reduced in favour of pump-overs, and the duration of cold maceration
decreased.
Most wines had finished their malo, and had recently been racked into cûve. They will be bottled
in January/February of 2010.
These were purely fruited wines with ripe, supple tannin and a very amiable character. Many
were already quite harmonised, and the village wines and lesser premier crus should be very
approachable.
SA
White Wines
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Blanc
Attractive, zesty aromatics of fern and citrus. Nice clear strike, with savoury freshness and a hint
of blossom. Not at all fat, but nicely smooth. Decent length with a hint of minerality. Attractive.
(14). From 2011.
Corton, Blanc
Reduced on the nose. But on the palate this has a rich core, and a savoury minerality. The
texture is fine, not heavy, and the finish is nicely dry and mineral with a touch of dried herb and
sea-spray. Not super-concentrated, but an elegant, mineral grand cru. Fine (18). From 2015.
Aloxe-Corton
This is the first vintage for this new purchase of vines.
Muted and toasty on the nose. This has very good density, zesty but ripe fruit, and a herbal,
savoury nuance to the finish. It’s punchier and more mineral than the village Savigny. Good.
(15). From 2011/12.
Red Wines
Savigny-Lès-Beaune
Lifted aromatics of ripe red fruit, with a hint of fresh spice. Supple on the palate, with a fine
texture, and a juicy, fresh finish. Pure and nicely textured, in a light, easy-going style. Attractive
(14). From 2011.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Peuillets
Gently aromatic and quite lifted on the nose. This is quite slight, but with nice ripeness, and a
delicate, sweet and sour fruit character on the palate. The finish has silky tannin and sweet,
supple length. Good, and already very amenable (15.5). From 2012.
125

Beaune, Bressandes
Made from young vines that are approximately 15 years old. Malos still ongoing.
Under the gas, this is good. It has lively acidity, and a richness of texture. The fruit is muted, but
there is richness, ripeness and density at the core. It has appealing, peppery spice and warm,
encompassing fruit. The long finish has freshly articulated fruit and attractive toasty oak. Very
good (16.5). From 2014.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Serpentieres
This was racked in September and is now in cûve. It is closed on the nose, but has an attractive
inky character on the palate. Not dense, but intensely perfumed, with a sleek, medium-weight
finish and well-integrated new oak. Good+ (15.5). From 2013.
*Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Vergelesses
Darker, black-fruited aromatics with a raw, primary quality. This has punchy, fruit-soaked,
tannins, intense minerality, and graphite and stone fruit. The tannins are tamed at the finish,
which has real premier cru length and focus, and elegant intensity. Very good to particularly
good (16.5). From 2014/15.
*Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Guettes
Slightly muted on the nose, but with elegant substance and grip on the palate. Sleek, with finely
chalky tannins, a sweet but fresh fruit core, and a long, liquorice and spice finish. Aromatic,
supple and with good length. Very good to particularly good (16.5). From 2014.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Aux Gravains
This has fresh red-fruit aromatics - summer pudding, redcurrant, blackcurrant - and a hint of
mint. Attractive texture on the palate, with voluminous and delicately grainy tannins that really
spread out in the mouth, and carry the fruit through to the finish. Already round and harmonious.
Very good (16). From 2013/14.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Dominodes
Muted on the nose. Good concentration on the palate; there’s real grip with a veneer of richness,
and a super-stony, mineral, dark fruit core. This has good drive, and tension, with toasty but
well-balanced new oak and an unfurling intensity on the finish. Sneaky length. Not a blockbuster
version of Dominode, but a very good rendering of the vintage. Particularly good (17). From
2014/15.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Domaine Direct; Lay and Wheeler
Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, Beaune, France. Esquin Imports Inc.
126

Domaine des Croix, Beaune
David Croix explains that they started picking on September 29th.
“Clearly 2008 was a late-ripening vintage which we’re not used to any more. It was tough, the
summer was bad, but once again we were saved by September. There was lots of work to be
done on the sorting table because of rot and uneven ripening. Yields were low: ours were
between 10 and 25 hl/ha.”
“I think the fruit is a bit leaner in 2008 than in 2007: I have higher acidities and lower pHs in my
2008 wines than my 2007s.”
SA
Bourgogne Rouge
In cûve; this was racked about a month ago. Very juicy, spicy and succulent on the nose, with
notes of dark and red berry fruit. Nicely dense, rounded style of Bourgogne rouge, with fine,
succulent tannin, very pure fruit and a fresh finish. Very good Bourgogne. (14). From 2011/12.
Beaune, Cent Vignes
This has a refined, pure, floral fruit. On the palate there are sleek tannins and intense perfume.
This is elegant, long, lovely tension, an elegant, long, scented style. Particularly good (16). From
2014.
*Beaune, Pertuisots
Deeper toned aromatics here – restrained but spicy. On the palate this has a lovely swirling drive,
dense but refined dark fruit, and particularly love tannins. Initially silky, they are layered and
structuring, with a succulent suede-like texture. There is a very good finish here, with surefooted
intensity and a sustained pure, lightly spicy fruit. Fine (18). From 2015/16.
Beaune, Grèves
Fresh, red and cherry-scented. This has a firmer acidic strike, and an upright spine. The tannins
have a structuring quality, and are fuller textured and more intense than the Pertuisots. They are
attractively chalky. The finish is very fresh, long, sustained and zestily fruity. There’s a lovely
refined energy to this wine. Fine (18). From 2015/16.
Corton-Charlemagne
Very clear and very bright, with intense, appealing aromatics of sea-spray and stone. Intensely
savoury and mineral on the palate, with a sumptuous texture but disciplined mineral freshness.
This has a lovely tension between zest and ripeness, and a long, savoury finish. Very fine – lovely
lifted intensity on the very end (19). From 2016.
127

Domaine Du Comte Sénard, Beaune
Lorraine, Philippe Sénard’s daughter, is totally responsible now for making both white and red
wines. “I’ve seen too many domaines where the son and the father are fighting over change”,
says the charming and genial Philippe Sénard “so I’ve decided to let her do what she wants, but
to be here when she needs me.” Very sensible, especially as she clearly knows what she’s doing
– these were all very well made wines.
The domaine is now using techno-corks, an innovation, that Philippe is “very pleased” about. “It
was an absolutely dramatic improvement [in corked bottles]. You cannot ask someone to pay a
hundred bucks for a wine he has to pour away.”
The white wines had all been bottled (with those techno-corks) at the beginning of September.
The reds were all in stainless steel cûve. They have been racked off the fine lees, and (depending
on the results of imminent fining trials) may be lightly fined before being bottled over the next
few months.
SA
White Wines
Bourgogne Blanc
This has very attractive aromas of hay and citrus. On the palate it has clear, quite concentrated,
fruit and a suave texture. The finish is very good for this level, and there is a minerally ripeness
to it. Very attractive. (14.5). From 2011.
*Aloxe-Corton
On the nose this is attractive and aromatically intense, with notes of savoury citrus and mandarin
zest. The palate is very beguiling: it opens initially very ripe, glycerol rich, but finishes all tangy
and intense, with a salty minerality and austere substance. Really good village. (15.5). From
2013.
This delicious anomaly is made from a traditionally Burgundian but increasingly rare variety, Pinot
Beurot. A member of the Pinot Gris family, Pinot Beurot vines produce tiny quantities of small,
dark pink/grey grapes, and a typical yield is between 20-25hl/ha.
Aloxe-Corton 2004
Lovely bright golden colour with an almost rosé pinkness to it. Very lovely aromatics – scented,
layered and finely nuanced. It has notes of fresh, honeyed fruit and sweet summer hay. The
palate is evolved but still fresh, with blossomy perfume, good minerality and a long mouth
watering finish. Lovely tangy dryness – really delicious and characterful village wine. Score 16.
From now.
Corton
This is from the lieux-dit Les Meix, usually planted to Pinot for red Corton. Philippe, encouraged
by observations from a geologist pal that the mineral bedrock of the Le Charlemagne vineyard
extended under the soil here, planted high density Chardonnay vines in 1992.
Intriguing aromatics of mineral and ripely zesty fruit. On the palate this is round but not fat, and
it has an understated generosity to it. It is a little less nervy than a Charlemagne, but very
delicious, and very savoury, in an intense, ample, full-bodied style. The finish is lovely – long and
deliciously dry, with good extract. Fine to very fine. (18.5). From 2015/16.
128

Red Wines
Aloxe-Corton
This has an expressive and sweet red fruit, with notes of strawberry and strawberry confit. On
the palate it has initially sleek, ripe tannins which are followed up by that same sweet, warm
strawberry fruit. The finish is attractively dry. Quite attractive, although Philippe feels that it’s not
showing as well as it could, having only recently been racked and sulphured. (14.5). From
2012/13.
Corton, Les Bressandes
Very enticing and appetising on the nose, with layers of marzipan, bright red fruit and pepper.
On the palate it is grippy and linear, with a generosity of scent but not body. There is minerality
here, and a high-toned fruit and appetising dryness. The finish is pure and mouth watering.
Really nice balance here – an intriguing unforced balance of acidity, airy intensity and very
attractively chalky tannin. Not a blockbuster, but in it’s understated way this is fine. (18.5). From
2015/16.
*Corton, Clos Du Roi
Sweet, spicy depth on the nose. Structured but supple, with a big frame, peppery, powdery
tannin, and firm minerality. Densely layered texture. Finishes long, broad-shouldered and mouth
filling, with a dry but voluminous tannin and sleek fruit. Fine to very fine. (18.5). From 2016.
UK: Rare & Fine Wines.
Stockists
129

Domaine Germain, Chateau De Chorey-Lès-Beaune
In 2008 Benoît Germain harvested on the 29th September, which is late in the scheme of things.
The malic acidity was less than many growers experienced and the MLF went through easily.
“Maturity arrived on the 27-28 th . We gained more than 2 degrees of alcohol in one week. We had
maturation and concentration. Unfortunately the yield was just 25 hl/ha. However the balance is
good.” By leaving harvesting to the 29 th , it was unnecessary to select for ripeness.
“The 2008s are not very dark in colour, but they have ripe tannins and elegance. The reds are a
little like the 1997s. Maybe there is a bit more concentration. They are so easy to drink,
especially for the premier cru. They have round and soft tannins. There is a little bit more acidity
than in 1997. The whites are rich, yet elegant.”
2009 : “This year I started before everyone else. We started on the 5th September. There was
high sugar and good acidity. In the first week of September we lost 15% of yield and 1g of
acidity, so we needed to pick. The natural potential was 13.5-7.”
Benoit would begin drinking his 2008s before the 2007s because he thinks the tannins are more
approachable in 2008.
Many of the white 2008 were bottled were last week as the malolactic here finished back in the
summer.
SM
White Wines
Crément de Bourgogne:
Blanc de Blancs from the grapes round the Château, most of which go into the crémant, but two
barrels are put aside for Bourgogne Blanc.
Bright and appley; juicy, fresh and slightly leesy. There are spicy notes and it is flowery and
fresh. It has a loose and frothy mousse. Very appealing.
Bourgogne Blanc
Just 2 barrels
Spicy and grapey aroma. Sweet attack, soft and full and rounded with a fresh finish. A crowd
pleaser. Pleasant. (12). Immediate drinking.
Pernand-Vergelesses
Richly spicy and aromatic with a full and Muscat aroma. It has a rich attack. A full bodied,
generous wine. It is not overblown, for it has a stabilising core, but is notably ripe with exotic
fruity notes. Very attractive to good. (14.5). From late 2010/11
130

The vines here yielded just 27 hl/ha and the style reflects the fact that it was harvested late, in
addition to being concentrated by the wind.
*Pernand-Vergelesses, Vieilles Vignes
Older vines including the Chardonnay “Muscat” clone, which represents 10-15% of this massale
selection vineyard.
Heady, spicy aroma. It is grapey with a hint of orange, cinnamon and cardamom. Richer and
more concentrated. It is creamy, full and buttery (more new oak in this cuvée, 50% versus the
regular cuvée which has 20%). Not only is it more intense, but I prefer the balance here as the
acidity is fresher on the finish. A ‘full on’ expressive wine. Good+. (15.5). From late 2011
Meursault, Les Pellans
Rich, ripe with notes of mango. Fullish and rounded palate with a thick texture. There is a touch
of smooth minerality on the finish. Very attractive to good. (14.5-15). From late 2010
Beaune, Sous Les Grèves
1 and a half barrels of this and the barrels are new. Production was small in 2008. (In 2009
Benoit has good production in Beaune, whereas in Pernand Vergelesses, where the flowering was
later, yields suffered. The berries were very small and they lost 40% of this Beaune vineyard in
2008).
Dark spice on the nose. Rather an opulent palate which is rounded and has very pleasant
crystallised citrus notes and a hint of mandarin and cinnamon. Very Good+. (15.5) From late
2011
Red Wines
Pinot Noir de Benoît Germain
Some of old vines from the domaine together with 75% ‘bought in’.
Attractive slightly peppery aroma. The palate is juicy and fruit-driven with soft tannins. It is sweet
and dark with a touch of crunch. Pleasant and easy going pinot to drink now.
Château Germain, Vieilles Vignes
80 year old vines which continue to produce well.
Lovely aroma, which is intense with pure dark fruit and slightly floral notes. Black plum on the
attack with lively energy and slightly tarry, gently robust tannins. A liquorishy and rather savoury
finish. Plenty of character and dark matter. A curiosity. Good. (15) From 2012
*Chorey-Lès-Beaune
This has 20% semi carbonic maceration: full cluster in the vat which is closed and left 12 days.
Then the grapes are crushed by foot and it ferments for a further 2 days.
Charmingly pure, red fruit aroma with notes of raspberry and cherry blossom. It dances brightly
onto the palate. A most attractive, light wine; bright and singing. Very fruit driven with light,
supple tannins and a fresh and lifted finish. A delightful village Chorey. Very attractive indeed
(14-14.5) From 2011
*Chorey-Lès-Beaune, Vieilles Vignes
5 big casks. Two go into the regular cuvée. From a parcel in Confrelins (reflecting the fact that it
was the parcel owned by the lord of the manor)
Red cherry fruit with notes of light spice. This is very engaging. There is more body and
structure; a little richness with notes of spicy white pepper. Lovely juicy red fruit and smooth,
131

lightly supportive tannins. A lively lifted finish. Quintessential village Chorey-lès-Beaune. (14.5-
15) From 2012
Beaune Premier Cru, Domaine Des Saux
This name is taken from the family who sold the château to the Germain family. Largely
Bouchrotte and some Cent Vignes. It is not the finished blend though. It may have some
Teurons. These plantings include the d’Angerville clones PN1, PN2 and PN3 - high quality clones
with lots of millerandage and small clusters planted 8 years ago. Benoit prefers these to 114 and
115 which were planted 25 years ago.
Bright aroma. Ripe fruit attack to a nicely rounded palate with supple tannins. Plump in the
middle. The rather luscious red fruit is neatly balanced with freshness and it has a lively finish.
Very good+. (16.5). From 2014
Beaune, Teurons
This took 3 months to ferment, but when pressed it still had 8g of sugar. It was moved to
stainless steel tanks for the yeast to finish converting the sugar, before putting it in barrel.
Gorgeous cherry fruit aroma. Tight attack; Punchy. More supportive tannins. It is gently
assertive. There is deep cherry fruit, quite rich with a liquorish note and a sprinkling of dark and
aromatic spice. It has a savoury bite to the finish. Well structured, but quite approachable and
with plenty of fruit. Particularly good++. (17.5). From 2014/15
*Beaune, Vignes Franches
Lifted and charming with blossomy notes. Lucid fruit; this is very serene. It ripples gently across
the palate on silky tannins to a long, scented finish. This is a Beaune with some finesse.
Delightful floaty wine. Fine (18-18.5) From 2014/15
*Beaune, Les Cras
Vivid, lifted and zesty aroma. Streamlined, direct palate with juicy red fruit and plenty of vitality.
Purity and richness. It is fleshed in the middle and satin round the edges. Lovely fruit coupled
minerality. Energetic and polished mineral finish. Fine to fine+ (18). From 2014/15
Beaune, Cuvée De Tante Berthe
Very expressive and spicy aroma. Succulently juicy palate which is generously rounded and full.
It is swathed in lightly exotic floral notes and enveloped in velvet tannins. It flows to a smooth,
seductive finish. Fine. (18) From 2015.
Négoce
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Aux Vergelesses
Bright fruit aroma. Zesty attack to a lively and spicy palate. Ripe loganberry fruit, spliced with
freshness. Lightly firm tannins. A fruity finish with a hint of white pepper. Very good+ (16.5).
from 2014
Corton, Les Bressandes
Engaging floral aromatics. Succulent attack to a juicy palate. Lucid fresh red fruit with plumpness
and depth. It sweeps elegantly across the palate. There is a fragrant top note. The texture is
satin soft and it ripples to a rather refined finish. It is a notably feminine Corton. Light, in a good
way, and really rather elegant. Fine. (18) From 2015
132

Stockists
UK: Goedhuis , Winegrowers , Bancroft wines , Bowes , Greenacres in Ireland.
USA: Simon “N” Cellars; Frederick Wildman; Scott Levy and Cynthia Hurley
Japan Caves Kanaiya
Korea: Negociant Korea
Singapore Auric Pacific Wine
Canada: SAQ and LCBO
133

Domaine Du Comte Armand, Clos Des Epeneaux, Pommard
Benjamin Leroux described the 2008 vintage. “Although 2008 was like 2007 in that it was a
difficult season, they are very different vintages. In both years you could end up with over-ripe
fruit. But the danger for over-ripeness was greater in 2007. And in 2008 you could have more
under-ripe fruit. Acidity was average in both vintages, but slightly higher in 2008. Although
August was tough in both 2007 and 2008, we had much more chance to have a good vintage in
2007. In 2008 we were much further away from ripeness when the bad weather came – it was a
much riskier vintage. It took a huge amount of work to make good wine in 2008.”
SA
Auxey-Duresses, Largillas
This has finished its malo and will be racked next month to finish its ageing in tank. This is very
muted and a little reduced on the nose. Lovely palate, though, with a pure, supple and fruity
strike. Tannins are appetisingly sappy on the finish, which has good length for a village wine.
Characterful, but not at all rustic. Very attractive (14). From 2012.
Auxery Duresses, Premier Cru
28 ares and the vines are 20 to 80 years old vines. This is a blend of one third Les Duresses and
two thirds Les Bretérins. The latter has a due south exposure and is on a steep slope of white
marl. There is 1.1 hectares of both. Leroux blends before fermentation. He tried treating them
separately and found that Les Duresses really didn’t work.
This was racked and lightly sulphured two weeks ago. Intensely juicy, succulent and purely
fruited. On the palate it is assertive but nimble, with a nice layered density. Fresh acidity and
lovely floral and red berry fruit on the finish. Very good+ (16.5). From 2013.
Volnay
Muted and restrained on the nose. But really quite rich and dark on the palate, with a lithe
texture but finely resistant tannin. On the finish there is a nice hint of minerality. Very good,
elegantly structured village Volnay. Good (15). From 2012.
Volnay, Fremiets
Fragrant and really quite expressive attack. There’s a dense core of very pure, pristine fruit –
both black and red fruit. This is elegant but not at all light – it has a classy punch to it, especially
on the finish. Tannins are buffed and have a fine-grained bite to them. Fine (18). From 2014/15.
Pommard, premier cru
Very lively on the nose, with notes of black pepper and black cherry. It’s really quite exuberant.
Tannins are firm but juicy, and gently structuring throughout. Actually rather a supple, nimble
character despite that intense fruit. The finish has good length and precision, with delicate
minerality. Fine (18). From 2015.
Pommard, Clos Des Epeneaux
We tasted an assemblage of what will be the final blend. Complex and expansive on the nose,
with defined aromatics. It has a full, rich quality, with notes of mocha, black fruit and spice.
Tannins are ripe and nicely dry. At the core is a lovely density of fruit – this has excellent
concentration. Yet it isn’t a brute – there’s just a lot of unforced power to it. The finish is super
long, and powered by firm, fruit-soaked tannin. Very fine (19). From 2016.
134

Stockists
UK: Berry Bros.; Lay & Wheeler; Lea & Sandeman; Morris & Verdin; Thorman Hunt & Co.
USA: Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, Beaune, France.
135

Domaine A.F. Gros, Pommard
“We had a lot of malic acidity in this vintage, and the wines (in general) were a bit crunchy and
rustic at beginning, but have become more balanced after the malo. I think they will evolve quite
quickly, but will be very attractive,” comments François Parent.
“I found the problem of 2008 was a weakness of tannin, mainly due to the rain in July and
August. So I’ve used more new oak than usual to compensate, and to provide some structure.”
“This is a very variable vintage. The best domaines, those with a philosophy of quality, have
made good wines. It’s very interesting for us, as winemakers, because our competence is hugely
important in 2008; in 2009 the wine practically made itself. The malolactic fermentations in
particular were very heterogeneous and stressful in 2008. An oenologist will tell you to just add
the cultures of lactic bacteria and be done with it. But we like to work naturally. It is stressful,
though: long malos leave the wine exposed and you have to be very attentive.”
SA
Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes De Nuits
This finished the malo about 6 weeks ago, and was sulphured at the same time. Restrained on
the nose. Quite reductive, which is suppressing the fruit, but underneath this is a sound, supple
Côte de Nuits (12.5). From 2011.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Maizières
This finished the malo at the beginning of September, but has not yet been sulphured. This is in
larger foudres rather than barrique. It will be racked in a couple of months and returned to
foudres before bottling.
Quite a lot of carbonic gas, as you’d expect. Beneath is nicely pure fruit, a hint of minerality, and
supple, silky tannins. This is medium-weight, with gentle zest and a scented finish. Very
attractive, in a very light, gentle style (14). From 2012.
Vosne-Romanée, Clos De La Fontaine
Very closed on the nose. On the palate this has a freshness to the fruit and a gentle, supple
texture. It is quite marked by smoky new oak and has a scented finish of respectable length. It
has quite charming and silky, with spicier fruit and a bit more substantial than Les Maizières.
Good (14.5). From 2012.
Vosne-Romanée, Aux Réas
Introverted but quite deep on the nose. More zip and energy here, with elegant concentration,
fresh red and floral fruit, and a nicely focussed finish with scented length and attractively dry
tannin. The new oak here (80% says François) is well-integrated into both tannin and fruit, and
the finish has respectable length. Good+ (15.5). From 2012/13.
Chambolle-Musigny
Scented and fruity on the nose, with fresh aromatics of cherry. It is quite pinched by new oak on
the attack and shows sweet, smoky tannin on the palate, with decent length. Again, a light style.
Attractive village wine, with freshness and a fine, supple texture. (14.5). From 2012.
136

Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Clos Des Guettes
The expressive, aromatic fruit – notes of liquorice, char grill and spice – is boosted here by toasty
new oak. On the palate this is rounded, with juicy, attractively grainy tannin on the palate.
Finishes well with intense, smoky fruit. (15.5). From 2012.
Beaune, Boucherottes
This has some gumption, if also a lot of new oak. Broad, spicy aromatics are warm and ripe, with
a very rounded structure and good concentration. Juicy, generous fruit, is nicely offset by
attractively powdery tannins on the finish. Very good (16). From 2012/13.
*Pommard, Pezerolles
Introverted but layered nose. On the palate this has a juicy core of blackcurrant and menthol,
fresh acidity, and succulent tannin. Quite good energy and grip here. New oak is well integrated,
supporting but not dominating the fruit and tannic structure. The finish is scented, and has good
intensity of lush blackcurrant fruit. Very good+ (16.5). From 2013.
*Pommard, Arvelets
This is tighter and more focussed on the palate. Good concentration, with attractively grainy
(though still far from aggressive) tannin. Linear and darkly fruity onto a long, lively, finish. These
Pommards really stand out here in this vintage. Very good+ (16.5). From 2013/14.
Echezeaux
This opens out on the nose with attractive, broad aromatics of parma violets, liquorice and very
dark spicy fruit. On the palate it is compact, with very sweet ripe fruit held up by toasty-brioche
new oak. There is a nice touch of vivacity. It finishes plump but concentrated, with a nice little
whip-lash of orange zest. Rich, stately and long. Fine (18). From 2015/16.
Richebourg
Very introverted but profound on the nose. On the palate this is very concentrated but also lean
and athletic. Not in a scrawny way – it just has no spare flesh. Very good density, with an inky,
flinty character at the end of the palate. Finishes with a half smile of scented, but unformed dark
black fruit. Concentrated and very long. Should be very fine. (18.5-19). From 2016.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Principal agent: Charles Hawkins. Wine Direct; Cambridge Wine Merchant; Decorum
Vintners; Rodney Densem Ltd.; Four Walls Wine Co.; Handford Wines; Haynes Hanson &
Clark; Knighton Wines; Roberson Wine; Edward Sheldon Ltd.; Wimbledon Wine Cellars;
Villeneuve Wines Ltd.
Canon du Colorado;
137

Domaine De Courcel, Pommard
These are jolly good! All of them. They all deserve stars for being Pommard which is spot on for
the terrior and the quality. Take your pick.
SM
*Pommard, Vaumuriens
The MLF has finished.
Pure aroma, intense, black and bright. Very linear with direct energy. Lovely, supple tannins and
it flows evenly across the palate. Elegant village wine. Good+ (15.5).
Pommard, Les Croix-Noires
Coucel have 0.6 of the 1.2 hectares of this premier cru.
The MLF has just begun. So, consquently it is seriously zesty. Plenty of power and compact fruit.
It is cool and slately with coal-like minerality and it couples freshness with intensity. The finish is
long, vigorous and very pure. Particularly good (17). From 2014
Pommard, Les Fremiers
Rather floral and lifted. This is fine grained, very fresh, pure and zesty. There is vitality coupled
with an inner, fine wired core of minerality. Lovely racy, mineral finish. I like this long linear
palate. It’s a good Fremiers. Particularly Good+ to Fine. (17.5-18) From 2014
*Pommard, Grand Clos des Epenots
This has a full, scopey, sweeping palate with plenty of substance and taut, but smooth tannic
structure. The fruit is pure blackberry, racy and intense with plenty of sweetness. The finish is
dark, graphite and direct. It has excellent definition and assured elegance. Fine++ (18.5).
2015/16
*Pommard, Rugiens
This has finished the MLF and is sweet and intense. There is essence of dark pinot noir fruit. A
tight vigorous and zesty attack. Very lively with firm, taut, but smooth grained tannins. The
expression is refined for Rugiens. It has power, but is not aggressive in any way. Touch of
graphite minerality on the palate and savoury minerality on the impressively long finish. Fine++.
(18.5 ) From 2015/16
UK: Lea and Sandeman; O.W. Loeb & Co. Ltd.
USA: Diageo Château & Estate.
Stockists
138

Domaine François Parent, Pommard
François Parent gave me his perspective on the 2008 vintage. “September was very bright, but
the nights were really cold. I remember it was as low as 5 degrees. It was like keeping them in a
fridge during the harvest, which we started on the 26 th September. Rot wasn’t a big problem for
us: we do a lot of work on the soil, which helps. There was a big oidium attack at the end of July
which could have been a problem. But we treated up to 2 months before the vintage. We’re not
biodynamic, although I have a small parcel which I’m trialling. The thing that worries me about
going biodynamic is that you have to rely on copper to treat against mildew and that gives you a
problem with copper toxicity. It’s not straightforward.”
SA
Monthelie, Champs Fuilliots
This premier cru finished the malolactic 2 months ago and has been racked and lightly sulphured.
Ripe red, strawberry scented aromatics. Supple and really quite soft and easy going on the attack
with a nice lift and tangy summer pudding finish. Good (15). From 2011.
Morey-Saint-Denis
Not yet racked – the malo finished just a few days ago. Very reduced on the nose. But there are
attractive, softly grainy tannins in there, and a hint of wood tannin too. Spicy, soft red and black
fruit on the finish. Very attractive village (14.5). From 2011.
Pommard, Epenots
Malo finished 3 weeks ago. Not racked. Very muted fruit, as you’d expect at this stage, but there
is good density here, and a long, suede-textured finish, with intense black fruit. An exuberant,
juicy ride. Intense finish. Very good (16). From 2013.
Volnay, Fremiers
Restrained on the nose. Nice red fruit on the palate, with a supple texture and a core of
sweetness to it. It has a delicate minerality and a gentle glide across the palate and a scented,
sneaky finish. Very good to particularly good (16.5). From 2012.
Clos du Vougeot
This was racked just after the 2009 vintage. Plumy, spicy and alluring aromatics. In its oaky way,
this is pretty darn good - generous, sensuous and gliding. This has an obviously rich, up for a
party style, with deep, dark black fruit, sweet spice and appetisingly chewy tannin. Finishes very
juicy, but also with a bit of a zing, and well supported by sweetly toasty new oak. Fine to very
fine (18.5). From 2014/15.
UK: Berkmann Wine Cellars; Decorum Vintners.
Stockists
139

Domaine du Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay
“The flowering was late and the summer was poor and consequently we finished late,” remarks
Renaud de Villette. They began harvesting on the 27 th September. “It was very special,” Renaud
muses. “It was the latest harvest in the past twenty years. Whereas 2009 was picked on the 10 th
September and 2007 the 5 th . It took us only 5 days to pick the 2008s for we brought in many
people to harvest and we had very little to pick - just 25 to 27 th hl/ha.
Renaud remarks that the flowering was not good. This he attributes to the poor summer in 2007,
as this is when the plant ‘plans’ the buds for the forthcoming spring. “The weather was correct
for flowering, but we had a small quantity of flowers.”
“The maturity is good… but July was not so cold. However we had storms and rain and there was
never a long time with the sun. The worst attack of hail was near Meursault (here the yields were
just 20hl/ha) across to Champans. There was not much hail in Clos des Ducs and none in
Pommard. The quantity was small before, because of the flowering, and even less afterwards,
but we did not have a great problem with rot. There was no hail taint.” Unfortunately they had
carried out a small green harvest in some vineyards, just before the hail.
Hail:
The hail came from Meursault, hitting the Santenots, moving to Volnay, striking Taillepieds,
before changing direction and taking path down to the road (route 74). The company who insure
the domaine for hail damage came out to assess the damage - Meursault was assessed at 70%
loss as each plant had been struck and half of each bunch had been destroyed on one side.
Champan had 45% loss. Clos des Ducs at 6%.
“There was a good proportion of skin to juice…sometimes when we get hail there is not much
juice in the berries, but this year there was no sense of dryness.”
“We often get hail, but the date is important. If the hail comes in May and June it is not a
problem, only for quantity. If it is very late it is also not such a problem, but if you get hail in
August then it can become rot. We could have had problems, but we made a good selection,
about 5-7% of bad grapes. On many bunches, the grapes were destroyed on one side of the
bunch and the other side was correct...”
They took off the dry berries with insufficient juice berries on one side of the bunch. “Usually we
just remove the whole bunch, but this year it was part of bunch.” Hence they employed 7 people
rather than 4 on the table de tries to sort just half the normal rendement.
“We always begin with the reds, despite the fact we have a white in Meursault…it is always
later…”
Renaud is sure that it was the late harvest that was key to their success this year. “You need to
pick late in Volnay this year. Those last few days were so important for ripening. It was the last 5
to 7 days at the end of September. It is never worth hanging on into October. The light is not the
same and the mornings are too cold, but in September the light is good and the length of the
days is sufficient. It is difficult to decide when to pick, as you must make the decision about the
date a week before ….. Fortunately we have good forward weather forecasting now, which gives
us a good idea about 10 days in advance, so can make predictions. We also need plenty of
people to harvest. If we have them, we can do it quickly.” In 2008 they harvested everything in 5
days.
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Some domaine in Volany started on the 22nd/23rd September. In fact lots started around the
date of the Ban de Vendanges…. “These days you can start before the Ban but the authorities
can come and analyse your fruit and declassify it, if it is not at the right degree….”
(In 2009 Renaud says that some people rushed to pick at the beginning of September because
they were worried about the low level of acidity, but as Renaud points out “if you have a good
balance in the soil and use no fertilisers, then the acidity would have been be fine…lower, but
fine….they began on the 10 th in 2009)
Quantity: Usually 200 barrels and this year 110-115, almost a ‘half-harvest’.
“The MLF was late. This is a new thing. Twenty years ago it would always happen from March to
May, but in the last 5 years some of the cuvées are always late. In 2008 we finished just at the
beginning of harvest. When it is late it is a logistical problem as we have no place with the right
temperature in which to put the wine. The last barrels through the MLF finished in June and July.
There is no reason for this. There was no more malic acidity in the Taillepieds and the Bourgogne
Rouge which were last, than in the others that went through first….neighbouring barrels were
different….I just don’t know what the explanation is….nature is more important than the
man…from the weather to the complexity of the wine….”
The vineyard is 100% biodynamic. “It has made a difference,” says Renaud. “. I cannot explain
why it works as I am a scientist and it doesn’t make sense, but now I look and I can see the
difference. It’s not a marketing thing. We have a great respect for the soil and for the
conservation of the terroir…….”
SM
Bourgogne
The parcels are not near the village of Volnay, but near the route 74 which had a lot of hail.
Pure red fruit; zesty and bright with notes of red cherry on the finish. Fair, but not the best
Bourgogne.
Volnay
Crisp, clear, pure red cherry aroma. Sweet fruit on the attack. It ripples lightly across the palate
with silky soft tannins, graceful and lucid. Fresh on the finish. Charming fruit on this light and
appealing village wine. Good. (15) From 2012/13
Pommard
Theoretically a premier cru on the limit of neighbouring premier cru, Les Combes. The vineyard is
40 years old and many of the plants have died. “We do not think the vines are as lovely as we
would like. The man who was looking after it was not doing a great job.” They started using
biodynamics in 2006 and in 2007 noticed a discernable improvement in the soil. The soil was
heavy and it pooled the rain. It was difficult to plough for it easily became compact. Now the soil
is more manageable and can be ploughed. “Now we have a better quantity of grapes and
maturity. We used to harvest here last because there was so much acidity and not so much
sugar. This year it was better.” There has been a lot of infilling with young plants. The over all
yield is still low, but this vineyard, one would suppose, can only get better.
141

Bright and straight on the aroma. Sweet attack of juicy fruit and a light textured palate. It has
freshness and slight sap to the tannins. It is fruity, quite simply structured, but quite elegant.
Nudging in the direction of ‘good’. (14.5) From 2012
Volnay, Pitures
Light red cherry aroma. Tangy attack, energetic and dancing on the palate. Piquant with notes of
white pepper. It has a light finish with a touch of zesty, sappy bitter cherry. Good+ (15.5). From
2012
Volnay, Mitans
The hail hit this badly so they made just 16-17 hl/ha. They have only 2 barrels, so they may have
to mix this with the above Pitures and make a wine simply labelled premier cru. “The maturity
was normal.”
Dark, intense fruit with a hint of the exotic. There is depth on the attack to a firm and quite
compact palate which has low, warm spice. Concentrated cherry fruit at the centre. The tannins
are firm, tight, but quite finely grained. The finish is seductively scented. Particularly Good (17).
From 2013
Volnay, Les Angles
Flat and deep, near Fremiets, but very different. Old vines and the yields are low.
Expressive, spicy aroma. The silky attack sides onto a straight palate. This is bright and nicely
focused. Alluring purple character to the fruit and a perfumed finish. Elegant. Particularly Good
(17) from 2013
Volnay, Fremiets
Restrained aroma. Quite sappy and firm tannins. It has vigour and precision. Dark fruit,
channelled to the finish with a touch of savoury mineral at the end. Very to particularly good.
(16.5-17). From 2013
*Volnay, Cailleret
Perfumed, ethereal aroma. It wafts onto the palate, which is very scented. It has gauzy texture
and light tannins. The translucent red fruit is underscored by racy, delicate and talcy minerality.
It is balletic and lightly dances on the finish. A light wine with spirit. The young vines here have
delivered well this year. I like this. Firmly Fine (18) From 2013/14
*Volnay, Taillepieds
Inscrutable aroma. The attack is much more vivid than the aroma. It has tension and fine shaley
layering on the palate. Tightly structure and finely grained tannins. It is well defined and
energetic with a long and precise finish marked with cool stony mineral. Fine++. (18.5) From
2014
Volnay, Champans
The two cuvées have been blended. This was Guyot pruned and is now being moved to Cordon.
Renaud feels they have better results, “lower yields but better maturity in this rich soil.”
Rich and spicy aroma. Dense attack. Compact on the middle palate. This has more weight and
slightly more sinewy tannins, which are also sappier. It has a more robust nature and is quite
strict on the finish. A little lacking in grace after Taillepieds, but it has substance. Particularly
good+ nudging into to fine. (17.5-18) From 2014
*Volnay, Clos des Ducs
Scented and fruity aroma. Light spice, a hint of nutmeg and a touch of anise at the front of the
palate. A firm, more muscular profile. The rather austere structure is fleshed out with energetic
mulberry fruit, spicy and slightly exotic. The tannins are sappy and firm. Very straight, channelled
142

and even to the finish which is savoury with a sappy, stony salinity. It has powerful persistence.
Fine to very fine. (18.5) From 2014/15
Meursault, Les Santenots
This was very badly hit by hail so there were hardly any leaves to ripen the fruit, but against the
odds, it did ripen. They had to chaptalise by 0.5 degree.
Expressive and rather exuberant. Citrus and apricot fruit with a touch of honeysuckle. A broad
wine, full bodied, but with nicely balancing energy. It has some muscular density and plenty of
crystallised lemon fruit on the finish. Particularly good (+). (17)
Stockists
UK:
USA:
John Armit Wines; Corney & Barrow Ltd; Fine & Rare Wines Ltd; Justerini & Brooks; O.W.
Loeb Ltd.; La Reserve; Charles Taylor Wines Ltd.
Diageo Château & Estate.
143

Thomas Bouley explains:
Domaine Jean-Marc et Thomas Bouley, Volnay
“2008 is not a very high profile vintage but I like it. It has a pure acidity and is very fruity - I like
this in a vintage. Grapes were very small and very healthy; we didn’t have much botrytis. We did
a lot of leaf plucking but we didn’t use many antibotrytic sprays and the result was very clean.
We began harvesting on the 25th September.
The fermentations in 2008 were very different from 2007 fermentations, which started very
quickly. The malo was really late in 2008. Some wines have still not finished. But I prefer a late
malolactic because it makes for the best stabilisation of colour and the structure. Right now I am
chilling part of the cellar downstairs to delay the malolactic fermentation of the 2009s.
2008 is a more tannic vintage than 2007. It was really difficult to taste these wines before the
malolactic fermentation, but I know that after the malo they will become a lot more elegant.
We will bottle a bit later than normal - March, April, rather than February. A long élevage is good
for the wine, but you need good balance and good density to do that.”
Lovely pure, intense wines from a talented and sensitive young vigneron.
SA
Bourgogne
Attractive, juicy-fruit Pinot with good freshness and nice, pure length. pleasant (13). From 2011.
Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune
This is only halfway through the malolactic fermentation. Muted on nose and palate.
Understandably dominated by spiky malic acidity at the moment. But the texture is supple and
attractive, and the finish fresh and pure. Will be very attractive (14). From 2011/12.
Volany, Clos de la Cave
This finished the malo in July and has had time to settle down a bit. Restrained aromatics, but
sleekly textured and purely fruited with bright, pure redcurrant character on the finish. A light but
pure village Volnay. Good (15). From 2012/13.
Volnay
This is still going through the malo. Restrained but fresh and pure. On the palate it has attractive
pristine fruit and dense tannins that should smooth down nicely once the malo is finished. Nice
length and concentration. Good (15). From 2012/13.
*Volnay Vieilles Vignes
This finished the malo 3 months ago and has been racked and brought back to barrels. So it’s a
little closer to the finished product than the previous two Volnays. The vines are between 45 and
60 years old.
Appealing, pure aromatics of red summer fruits. On the palate this has an upright structure, and
a smooth attractively chewy tannin. The finish has good density of pristine fruit, and a fresh
acidity. Very good village Vonlay (15.5). From 2013.
144

*Pommard
Restrained but pure aromatics. Very tight on the palate - this is quite a determined wine. The
fruit is pretty quiet at the moment, but this has a good weight about it, a richness of dark fruit,
and attractively dense, juicy tannin. This will be very good village Pommard. (15.5). From
2013/14.
Pommard, Les Petits Noizons
Thomas bought these grapes for the first time in 2008. He and his great pal Nicolas Rossignol
(who also buys grapes from this vineyard) are excited by the quality potential of this iron-rich
lieux dit which sits above the Pommard premiers crus on the Beaune side.
The vines are at least 70 years old. Thomas wasn’t involved in the viticulture in 2008, although
from 2009 this has changed.
Reduced on the nose, but with open, diffuse, aromatics on the palate. It has firm but glossy,
diffuse tannin and a seductive texture. It has lovely substance for a village wine, but the fruit
here is more ripe and less pristine than in the preceding wines (“Yes”, says Thomas, “from the
very beginning this tasted very different to my vines.”). But this is very good village Pommard
none the less. Good (15). From 2013.
Beaune, Les Reversées
Warm, bright and gently spicy. This has very sweet strawberry scented fruit on the entry, and a
dense, glycerol rich texture. Tannins are ripe and with attractive resistance. There’s a hint of
sweetness to the palate, which is gently fresh and mouth-watering. Very harmonious, appealing
and gently substantial. Particularly good. (17). From 2014/15.
Volnay, Caillerets
Attractive, floral aromatics. On the palate this is nimble and gently mineral. This is not hugely
constructed, but it has a nice, unforced balance to it, and an appetising mineral finish. Tannins
are fine, and delicately structuring. It well put on some weight through the long élevage in store.
Should be very good (16). From 2014.
*Volnay, Carelles
This tiny premier cru is just next to Champans, a little lower down the slope. The soil is red and
chalky, with large white pebbles.
Aromatics are scented, perfumed and nuanced, with notes of bergamot and dried rose. Pacy,
racy and very elegant on the palate, with finely textured tannin that really diffuses through the
wine, and a sweet fruit and mineral finish on the long length. Very fragranced, and quite
haunting, on the finish. Fine (18). From 2014/15.
Volnay, Clos des Chênes
This has finished the malo but has not yet been racked, meaning that there’s a lot carbonic gas
and a bit of SO2 to taste through.
Deeper, darker aromatics with notes of black fruit. This is pretty structured and has dense,
intensely packed tannin. Very tight at the moment, but there is some very pure, stony fruit hiding
in there. This has a long way to go, and is really very promising – it has the restraint and pent up
concentration of a really fine, ageworthy wine. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2015/16.
*Pommard, Fremiers
Deceptively inviting and open on the nose, with ripe mulberry and blackberry fruit. But on the
palate this is deeply savoury and very firm. There is layered intensity of delineated tannin, and it
has a racy density to it. The finish has very good length and real elegant focus. Fine (18). From
2016.
145

*Pommard, Rugiens
This has very attractive aromatics of pristine but still very primary fruit. On the palate it opens
with a fresh dark fruit and fresh-ground spice. This is very linear and focussed on the palate. It
has a muscular structure to it and a black expansive finish. There’s a lot of substance and toned
matter here. Fine to very fine (18.5). From 2016.
UK: O.W. Loeb
USA: Russell Herman, N.J.
Stockists
146

Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay
Frédéric Lafarge considers “2008 is a good vintage in red and white. It is rich and well balanced.”
They picked from the 24 th September for a week. Frédéric comments, “We had good light and a
North wind.” They started with Clos des Ducs and finished with the Passetoutgrains at the
beginning of October. “We didn’t have much malic in the whites.”
SM
White Wine
Bourgogne Aligoté, Raison Dorée
Rich, citrus aroma. Honeyed and lemon notes on the palate with balanced acidity and a slightly
savoury note on the finish. From 2010
Meursault
Crystallised citrus fruit aroma. Sweet, glossy attack to a nicely rounded middle palate, which is
juicy and rich. Good fresh balance of fruit and acidity and a sweet note of minerality on the
finish. Good+. From 2011
Beaune, Les Aigrots
Plump, full and juicy. Ripely rounded and richly, sleekly textured. It has waftingly and softly
exotic spices with a hint of jasmine, which float above the lush apricot fruit. It is very harmonious
and has a touch of opulence on the finish. Nudging into particularly good. (16.5-17) From 2011
Red Wine
Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
Peppery aroma and a purple fruit palate. It is a touch weedy and has light, but stalky tannins.
From 2011
Bourgogne Passetoutgrains L’Exceptional
This is an 85 year old parcel which is located in Bourgogne in argileous/calcareous soil. It is 50%
Pinot Noir and 50% Gamay. There are historic reasons for the name. When Frédéric’s
grandfather started bottling Volnay under his own label in 1934, he started with Volnay, Clos des
Chenes and this parcel of Passetoutgains.
This is a big step up in quality. There is much more depth of fruit, nicely spicy dark hedgerow
fruit with well ripened tannins and a juicy finish. A simple wine – it is a Passetoutgains, but one
with plenty of personality. From 2011
Bourgogne
Bright and pure red aroma. The palate is lively and direct with zesty energy and a bright tight
line. Lucid fruit on this fresh Bourgogne. Very pleasant. From late 2011
147

Côte de Beaune Villages
Lifted red fruit aroma. Bright on the attack. Pleasantly crunchy redcurrant fruit. It is vivid and
lively and has light tannins. It is attractive. From 2012
Volnay
Lightly perfumed aroma and a silky attack. This ripples across the palate, underpinned by quite
taut, light and fine-gained tannins. It has a direct line and racy energy. Vivid redcurrant fruit. It is
certainly fresh with a slightly aniseed, herbal note on the finish. Good. From 2013
*Volnay, Vendanges Sélectionnée
“Generally this fruit comes from the middle of Volnay under the premier cru and this terroir gives
more richness, beautiful tannins and potential for keeping.”
Perfumed aroma. This slips onto the palate with satin tannins. It is supple, smoothly flowing and
fluid. More density and richness with a touch of the velvet and warm spice to the finish. Quite a
step up in quality. Good to very good. The best village Volnay I tried in this vintage. (15.5-16)
From 2013
Volnay, Vendanges Sélectionnée 2007
Supple, silky and perfumed. This has lovely, lucid red fruit and a direct, pure and mineral finish.
Score 15.75. From 2012
Beaune, Les Aigrots
The 5 th vintage of this wine. Les Aigrots is adjacent to Clos-des-Mouches. It is good for red and
white and two thirds of the Lafarge parcel is planted in Pinot Noir.
Perfumed palate with a fragrance that drifts headily above the fruit. A touch of jasmine.
Delightfully pure raspberry fruit, slightly luscious, lightly rounded and sweetly supple. It flows to
a rich petally finish. Delicious. Particularly Good++. (17-17.5) From 2013
*Beaune, Grèves
Exotic, spicy and inviting aroma. More assertive attack. Dark with vivid wild berry fruit and a
touch of grip. The middle palate is dense and taut and the tension carries to the long pure and
direct finish which has a quartzy minerality and energy. Nudging fine. (18) From 2013/14
*Pommard, Pezerolles
Pure and dark aromatic. Silky on the palate with a note of pastille sweetness and a hint of
smooth bitter chocolate. The tannins are supple and flowing. It has an engaging purity and there
is depth here too. It flows on supple tannins to a long and elegant finish. Fine. (18). From 2014
Volnay, Mitans
Dark spice, deep, slightly sultry. Rich and velvet on the attack. Luscious texture with deeply juicy
depth. Gorgeous dark mulberry fruit entwined with freshness and smooth graphite minerality.
Wonderfully textured. A good Mitans. Firmly Fine. (18). From 2014
Clos du Château des Ducs
High toned perfume, lifted and airy. Sensual palate; a silky river of gorgeous fruit. It is seamless
with rich, seductive undertones and gossamer fragrance above. Delightfully structured and very
well sustained. It shimmers to the finish. Fine to fine+. (18-18.5) From 2014
*Volnay, Caillerets
Gorgeous perfume, scented and lifted. Pure and delicate with quicksilver energy and tension. It
has fine precision and an iridescent thread of minerality. The minerality quivers on a high taut
line. Beneath the mineral is the fruit is pure and lucid with lovely definition. Fine+ (18.5) From
2014
148

Volnay, Clos Des Chênes
Purity, energy and vitality on the aroma. A very refined palate. It has racy vitality, shimmering
taut minerality and superb depth and intensity to the fruit. There is a palpable sense of tension
and dynamism. A wine with fine vibration. Fine++. (18.5) From 2014
Stockists
UK:
USA:
A & B Vintners Ltd; Bibendum; Berry Bros & Rudd; Ben Ellis Wines; Fine & Rare Wines
Ltd.; Gauntleys of Nottingham; Goedhuis & Co. Ltd.; Haynes,Hanson & Clark; Howard
Ripley; Seckford Wines; The Winery.
Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France. Esquin Imports Inc.
149

Domaine Hubert De Montille, Volnay
“The climate was ‘very special,’ cold and wet. It was worse than 2007,” remarks Cyril Ravaux,
who makes the wine for the domaine and the Montille (Etienne and Alix) négoce enterprise. “Our
first impression of the 2008 was poor. But then, at same time it was quite impressive, because
despite the cold and rain, there was not much mildew and oidium. The only problem was with
the vines under the forest, where we had some unripe and rotten grapes.”
“We began harvesting on the 20 th of September and we did lots of sorting on table, as well as
some in the vineyard. It was really important to do this, to get the best of the fruit. We had good
maturity. The phenolic component was mature and so we were able to do a lot of whole bunch.
We never use whole bunch in the Beaune Sizies. For the Beaune Grèves we use a little. It
depends on the grapes, the terroir and the age of the vines. Typically for the Rugiens, it is 50-
60%, because we have some old vines.”
The stalks were ripe except for Taillepieds and Champans which suffered from hail at the end of
July. “The stems were pitted so we could not use them, but the berries were nice.”
They follow organic practices and were very careful with leaf plucking, which limited both the
effect of rot and helped with ripening, but they had to select out 5-8% of rotten grapes. They
lost a further 5-15% on the triage table.
The vintage was not that easy in the cellar either. “It was difficult to keep a warm vinification.
We had lots of questions.” Everything had finished MLF before the harvest. “The 2008 for us was
very strange until after the MLF. It was very difficult to taste the wines and we could not predict
what we would get. Because of the high levels of malic, the tannins were hard, but then after the
MLF the wine was much better. We usually do not rack during the ageing, but this year we did.
We felt the wine needed aeration. We racked in August and put back to barrel. I feel the 2008s
need longer ageing and we will not begin racking again until the beginning of December. They
will spend 3 months in tank on fine lees with bottling in March.
They tend to correct tartaric acidity here, just a touch, Cyril says “whatever we are likely to lose
in the fermentation.” (Considerably less than the level used by Hubert de Montille; those wines
took such a long time to come around.) It is perhaps surprising that they have chosen to adjust
2008, but they tweaked both 2008 and 2009.
New oak is kept to 20-30%.
Cyril is not sure about a vintage comparison, “Maybe 1993…the ‘93 needed a lot of sorting. The
quality was mixed, for those who did sorting and those who did not….”
Despite the challenges presented by the vintage, Cyril is undaunted. “I like 2008 because it was
hard in the vineyard and for the vinification. We had to ask ourselves lots of questions and make
many decisions.”
SM
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*Bourgogne
From two lots between Meursault and Volnay.
Bright red aroma. Juicy palate, which is lively with sweet cherry fruit. It has freshness and slight
peppery spice on the finish. A good Bourgogne. Very attractive (14) From 2011
Beaune, Sizies.
Two lots and these are already in tank. “I felt it had enough age in barrel and there were the
practical considerations of finding the space for the next vintage,” said Cyril. The soil is quite
deep here and the vines are of different ages.
Appealing raspberry fruit aroma. Rounded and fruity with soft tannins, fresh and sweet in the
middle palate and a smooth finish. Lovely lucid fruit. Quite a simple, fruit-driven premier cru.
Very Good to Very Good+ (16-16.5). From 2013
Beaune, Les Perrières
High spice on the aroma. A direct and well edged palate with red fruit, light, peppery tannins
underscored with talcy minerality which quivers on the finish. Not especially profound, but pretty
and attractively mineral. Particularly good. (17) From 2014
Beaune, Grèves
Appealing perfume; a little sultry. Dark cherry fruit attack, firm tannins, quite grippy and dense.
Some dark matter here with a meshed texture and a tarry note. Fullish palate with a savoury
finish. A little lacking in charm, but plenty of structure. Particularly good. (17). from 2015
Volnay, Champans
No whole bunch here due to the hail.
Expressively full red aroma. Dense, rich and it has a juicy depth. This has toned muscle and
firmly supportive tannins. Rather robust, but with a decent, straight and decisive finish. Will
need some time. Particularly Good. (17) From 2015
*Volnay, Mitans
“This is always ripe and there is never much sorting to do,” remarks Cyril. “Just 4% sorting and
well ripened so we could do the 100% whole bunch. There are old vines with lots of
millerandage.”
Perfumed, spicy, but holding a little back. Juicy attack and the mid palate is deep and full. Well
defined, fresh and spicy. Attractive sappy character to the tannin and the finish is rich with wild
berry fruit. It has personality and structure. Particularly Good+ to Fine. (17.5-18). From 2015
*Volnay, Taillepieds
Usually that has 100% whole bunch, but none this year because of the hail.
Very aromatic. Flowing and juicy, it ripples elegantly across the palate. A finely structured wine.
Crystal purity; silky, cool minerality and fine-grained supportive tannins. There has a lovely long,
vital line. Racy onto the finish. An elegant Taillepieds. Firmly Fine. (18). From 2015
*Pommard, Pezerolles
This is a blend of the 2 lots, including the Clos de Pezerolles old vines. For the old vines they use
whole bunch, but not for the young.
An aroma of dark perfume coupled with purity of fruit. This is a rather sleek, elegant and
restrained Pezerolles. The tannins are finely grained and slightly sappy. It is reserved, but with a
firm core of coiled energy. The fruit is accented with slightly exotic spice and smoothly graphite
note. The finish is long and fresh. It’s a good Pezerolles. Certainly Fine. (18). From 2015
*Pommard, Rugiens
50% whole bunch.
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Compact aroma, red and taut. Sweet fruit attack. This has shimmering depth to the fruit with
glints of mineral. It is well defined and has vigour. Fine, supportive, but flowing tannins. Cool
chalky minerality, precise and tight on the long finish. Fine+ (18.5) 2015
The following wines have 100% whole bunch fermentation.
Nuits-Saint-Georges
From the village parcel of Saints-Juliens in the lower part of the north section. It is an old
vineyard so whole bunch is used.
Sweet fruit with a touch of cassis, supple tannins, flowing energy and a smooth texture. A very
well mannered village NSG with plenty of ripe fruit. Good. (15) From 2013
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Thorey
Firm, deep and juicy aroma. Succulent fruit, richly rounded on the palate. It has a shammysmooth,
thick texture and velvet tannins which have an edge of attractive sappiness, giving some
bite to the smooth profile. It has an attractive lift of freshness on the finish. Particularly Good+.
(17.5). From 2014/15
*Corton, Clos de Roi
Rich, ripe aroma. Pure, deep and luscious morello cherry fruit. A broad and generously rounded
palate. A sweet and succulent centre with a generally loser knit texture. Enrobing tannins, firm,
but smooth and a rich, dark finish with touch of dark chocolate and spice. A good Corton. Firmly
Fine to fine+. (18). From 2015
Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts
Dark fruit palate with a floral perfume and satin-supple tannins. It is rich and juicy, plump and
rounded. An expressive wine with an engaging personality. Velvety depth and spice on a well
sustained finish. Fine. (18). From 2015
Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts, Cuvée Christian
This cuvée is named after Etienne de Montille’s mother. It is a very specific parcel, from the
North/East corner which is represents a chunk out of the corner of La Tache, which didn’t make it
into the more illustrious appellation because of a terroir difference. There is a fault in the ground
which separates them and so the soil is different.
Deep and dark with a slightly exotic spice. Suede-supple on the attack. The palate is compact
and dense with depth and richness. It has smooth muscular energy and greater dimension. There
is perfumed intensity to the finish which has layered spicy fruit entwined with freshness. Fine to
Fine+. (18-18.5). From 2015/16
Stockists
UK: John Armit Wines; Berry Brothers; Goedhuis and Co; Hayes, Hanson and Clarke, H. & H.
Bancroft, Lay and Wheeler, O.W. Loeb; Howard Ripley; The Wines Society
USA: Beaune Imports; Martin Scott, Veritas; The Wine House; Europvin.
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Domaine Nicolas Rossignol-Jeanniard, Volnay
Many wines here had not yet finished their malolactic fermentation. All, however, had been
racked, and most were in tank. None had been sulphured.
The wines that had finished their malos will stay on their fine lees, in barrel, until just before
bottling.
Nicolas Rossignol explains: “I really like this vintage. It was a pretty special year. Even though it
was quite bad weather, we had a lot of light. Sun and heat reduce acidity. That’s what happened
in 2009. 2008, because of the cool temperatures, kept a very nice acidity. We started picking
from the 20 th September.”
“For me 2008 is a blend of the finesse of 2002 and the structure of 2005. It’s a vintage that really
shows the differences in terroir. For me 2007 and 2008 are vintages for the real lovers of
Burgundy. 2009 is going to be more like 2003 and 2005. 2008 is more classic.”
He will bottle his 2008s quite late, probably Spring 2010, as they will need time to settle after the
late malolactics.
Nicolas has been fine-tuning his approach to vinification, and in particular the use of whole
bunches:
“Whole bunches is the fashion now – but you have to have really good grapes and vineyards.
We’re just going back to what our grandparents did. Not that whole bunch is an automatic good
thing. You have to choose carefully. Sometimes because of the soil, the vintage, the grapes, its
not possible. But I’ve used some whole bunches this year and I love the results. The Caillerets,
for example. It’s over now in my mind, this fear of rusticity from whole bunches.”
From 2009 Nicolas will have all the grapes from his grandmother and uncle, giving him a total of
eight premier cru Pommard. Very exciting, really, to have such a great range of terroirs in the
hands of such a good winemaker.
SA
Volnay
This is halfway through the malo. It’s a blend of different parcels, vinified separately, and
blended for the bottling. The palate is still marked by apply acidity, but the texture is fine and
very supple. Pure red fruit on a finish with very respectable length for a village wine. Will be very
attractive (14.5). From 2012/13.
Volnay, Taillepieds
This has finished the malo and has been racked.
The nose is restrained, but pure and precise. On the palate, too, this has a fresh precision about
it, and elegant extract. This has a mineral density and evident seriousness about it. Very tight at
the moment, but the texture and tannin here is particularly sleek. Long and mineral finish.
Particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2015.
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Volnay, Chevret
Restrained but dark, deep aromatics. This has a very fine entry which evolves into a finely
layered, dense texture on the palate. The fruit is very pure, but very dark and dense. The length
is long and elegantly succulent. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2015.
Volnay, Clos Des Angles
This is about halfway through the malolactic. The fruit is very primary and muted at the moment,
but there is a definite core of sweetness. There is a lacy, seductive, open weave texture to the
tannin. The finish is long but delicate. Particularly good (17). From 2015.
*Volnay, Caillerets
The malolactic finished just before the harvest in August. Lovely scent – mineral and floral on the
nose. On the palate this is focussed but with nice weight – even a touch of richness – to the
mouthfeel. It’s not a fruity wine at all – it is really very airy, but intense, with a long, perfumed
finish. Very reserved, but should be fine (18). From 2015.
*Volnay, Fremiets
Malolactic here has not yet started. This has a big structure for Volnay. It is intense, ripe and
dark but not at all louche. The texture is voluminous and broad on the mid-palate. Beneath all
that malic acidity is some real richness of fruit. The finish is very long, intense and mineral. This
promises complexity, and should be fine (18). From 2015.
Volnay, Santenots
This has expressive aromatics and an open, broad texture. This is less dense on the palate, but
has a very long, deep finish with notes of powdery graphite and dark black fruit. Particularly good
to fine. (17.5). From 2014/15.
Volnay, Roncerets
This has not yet started the malolactic. So although it is in tank at the moment it will go back into
barrel to start and finish the malolactic.
Restrained but deep aromatics. Very forthright. This is a pretty monumental character at the
moment. The tannins are dense and chalky, and the finish totally compacted. There’s a coiled
intensity to it – this is a bit of a wild character. This should be fine, and will need plenty of time
(18). From 2015/16.
Pommard
Bright and juicy. Very primary and zesty. Tannins are a bit rumbunctious, but succulent, and the
finish has good, assertive length. Very attractive (14.5). From 2013.
*Pommard, Les Petits Noizons
This is one-quarter through the malolactic. It has a really sleek, pure intensity. Dense on the
core, with a hint of black fruit, and a very good, sustained, substantial finish. Extremely good
village Pommard. (15). From 2013/14.
Pommard, Les Vignots
Here the malolactic has just started. Fresh and floral and pure. Very tight on the palate with a
crunchy, primary fruit and chalky but ripe tannin. This has a really perky, upbeat feel to it. Good
finish, with buffed up tannin. Another lovely village Pommard. (15). From 2013.
*Pommard, Croix Noires
This comes from Nicolas’ uncle. Previously he sold the fruit to a major negociant, but Nicolas has
persuaded him to reduce yields and sell to his nephew instead.
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The malolactic has not yet started. Ultra-primary but vibrantly scented Pommard. Dense,
blackcurrant fruit and a firm but not astringent tannin. Once the malic acidity softens this should
have a lovely richness of style – there’s a core of very sweet, very pristine fruit in here. The finish
is really long, concentrated and intense, with notable persistence. Fine (18). From 2015/16.
Pommard, Chaponnières
The malo is one-quarter finished. Rich and spicy aromatics. Dense, rich and ripe on the palate,
with a broad, fleshy structure and intense but civilised tannin. Very long, juicy, dark and
succulent on the finish. Impressive richness, weight and extract in here. This should be brilliant.
Fine+ (18.5). From 2015/16.
*Pommard, Fremiers
The malo here has yet to start. This is still in barrel at the moment and has not been racked.
Really tight and reductive on the nose. But there’s very deep fruit beneath. Already it has very
refined tannin, sleek but particulate, and densely wound black, precise fruit. This has a striking
sense of pent up energy, unforced extract and unexpected richness on the really long finish. Very
fine (19). From 2016.
Pommard, Les Chanlins-Bas
The malolactic is half complete. There’s 50% new oak here, which shows as a lifted vanilla-cream
sweetness on the nose. Initially sumptuous texture, with supple pace, is well balanced by ripe,
black fruit. This has velvety, suedey tannins and a deep richness of fruit. Attractively dry, fruited
finish. Particularly good to fine (17.5). From 2015.
Pommard, Les Jarolières
The malo has not yet started. This wine has been racked and is currently in stainless steel, but
will be put back into barrel to complete the malo. Pure, primal but introverted aromas. Hugely
tight on the palate. This opens with slatey, dense and unashamedly grippy tannin which defines
the wine all the way to the finish. They have a fine, chalky grain to them. There’s a very fresh
acidity (which will soften after the malo) and an intense, long, stony finish. Fine+ (18.5). From
2016.
Pommard, Epenots
Malo has not yet started. This has a bright but less intense colour. Utterly introverted on the
nose. Very compact and elemental – this has such a long way to go. Everything is here – extract,
pure mineral fruit, firm powdery tannin and a super-vibrant acidity – but this is absolutely not
coming together. The finish, though, points to the potential here – it is really long, dense and
deep with inky, mouth staining intensity. Should be fine at the very least. From 2016.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Lea & Sandeman, Bibendum, Graham Gardiner
Robert Kacher.
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Domaine Joseph Voillot, Volnay
“2008 was an extraordinary vintage. I had my harvesters on stand-by for weeks as we waited
and waited for the best maturity. We have the same team of harvesters who come back every
year, and they have a lot of respect for their work with us. And we always give them lots of great
food and loads to drink.”
Although the malos were late here too, all had finished by the time of our tasting at the end of
October. Most wines (apart from the village appellations) will remain on their lees in barrel until
bottling in February. “I like to keep them there, under a bit of carbonic gas, to keep the
freshness.”
Generally this domaine uses a maximum of 20% new oak.
“I’m an optimist for this vintage: the wines have the acidity, tannin and structure to age very
well. But I think they’ll close up after bottling. You’ll need to wait 4-5 years for the 1er crus.”
This was a very accomplished set of wines, with real consistency and proper structure across the
range. The Pommards were especially good, with notable polish and sophistication.
SA
Volany Vieilles Vignes
Jean-Pierre Charlot notes that old vines with deep roots give good texture and minerality to
wines. He does not regard the vines as truly old until they are over 40 years.
This had been racked from barrel into stainless steel cûve and recently sulphured. Attractive, with
very bright, strawberry scented fruit. The texture is lively and supple. This is all freshness and
purity on the palate, and finishes beautifully clear, with sweet but pristine red fruit. Good village
Volnay. (15). From 2012.
*Pommard Vieilles Vignes
Like the Volnay, this is also in cûve, settling down before the bottling. This is marked by pristine
dark berry fruit on the nose, and firmer but still quite polished tannins. It has fresh, pure, clear
fruit. Rounder and more chalky on the finish. Classic village Pommard – has an honest, enjoyable
fruity style to it – and quite fine perfumed fruit on the finish. (15.5). From 2012/13.
Volnay, Fremiets
This has finished the malo and has been sulphured but not racked. Lots of gas here. Lively redfruit
aromatics, with a pure strawberry fruit on the nose. The palate has nimble, lithe tannins and
a long, mineral, perfumed finish. Particularly good. (17). From 2013/14.
*Volnay, Champans
Sweetly fruity and smokily aromatic. This is very structured, with firm, ground tannins and pure,
fresh red and black fruit. It is focussed, and has very good intensity, vibrancy and length. Lovely
precise fruit emerges on the finish, which is scented, but also dense, with long, concentrated
dark fruit. No weakling, this. Fine. (18). From 2014/15.
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Volnay, Caillerets
This is high-toned and very scented, with floral notes. Linear and light-footed, with real tension
and a long, nuanced, scented finish. Tannins are finely grained and mineral – there is very good
structure tucked behind that perfume. Particularly good to Fine. (17.5). From 2014/15.
Volnay, Brouillards
Dark, deep aromatics. This has an assertive acidity and firm, slightly grainy, tannins. This is much
tighter and less evolved than the other 1er crus. It has very good concentration, and an intense,
compacted black fruit on a brooding finish. Particularly good to Fine. (17.5). From 2014/15.
*Pommard, Pezerolles
This is really appealing on the nose, with smoky aromatics and a black, ripe fruit. This has a little
more new oak (than the usual 20%), but it is well-matched by the succulent, nicely chewy tannin
of this wine. Lively acidity and excellent concentration. The finish is long and structured, with
lovely intensity, and wonderfully exuberant fruit. Fine. (18). From 2015.
Pommard, Clos Micaults
Generous aromatics of dark berry fruit and mocha. This is ripe, glycerol rich and very juicy on the
attack. Tannins kick in on the finish, which has an ample, ripe fruit and attractive juicy dryness.
Direct, forthcoming and expansive. Particularly good to Fine. (17.5). From 2014/15.
*Pommard, Epenots
A tiny production from Les Petits Epenots, yielding the equivalent of just 600 bottles this year.
This has complexity on the nose, with layered aromatics of red fruit, pepper, spice and dark fruit
beneath. It has drive and focus, with minerality and very precise, firm tannin. The finish is long,
fresh and nuanced. A more sleek style of Pommard, but this has the style and polish and length
of a really fine wine. Fine to Very Fine. (18.5). From 2015.
Pommard, Rugiens
Alluring and scented, with notes of red cherry, summer pudding and red crunchy plum. This is
high-toned and lively, with intensity and a lovely, lifted character. The tannins are fine but dense
and the finish is long, appetising and intense. There’s a final dollop of rich, concentrated fruit at
the very end. Fine. (18). From 2014/15.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Balls Brothers; Harrods; Goedhuis & Co; Adnams; Laytons, Dudley-Jones Fine Wines;
John Harvey & Sons Ltd
Vintage 59, Washington
157