DOMAINE JEAN-CLAUDE BESSIN * - Burgundy Briefing

The Burgundy Briefing
news, views and tastings
Sarah Marsh MW
Issue 11 Summer 2009
Tasting White 2008
Bourgogne
Assuming it is correctly made with no faults and meets basic expectations, it
could range from sound, pleasant to attractive. 12-14
Village
From sound (although this would be disappointing at this level) through to
pleasant and attractive to good.
Straight village at the top level would be very good.
Deuxiemes crus – the best lieux-dits could reach particularly good
12
13-15
16
17
Premier cru Very good
Particularly good (a very sound premier cru)
Fine (premium)
Very fine (excellent. Top notch premier cru)
16
17
18
19
Grand
Cru
Particularly good (this falls below expectations of grand cru quality)
Fine (premium wine)
Very fine (excellent)
Up to outstanding (excellent with x factor)
17
18
19
20
Maison Champy ................................................................................................................... 3
Maison Chanson Père et Fils.................................................................................................. 9
Maison Joseph Drouhin....................................................................................................... 13
Maison Olivier Leflaive ........................................................................................................ 17
Maison de Montille, Soeur et Frère....................................................................................... 23
Maison Morey-Blanc, Meursault ........................................................................................... 26
Domaine de Montille, Volnay ............................................................................................... 29
Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils, Meursault .......................................................................... 30
Domaine Michel Bouzereau, Meursault ................................................................................. 33
Domaine Yves Boyer-Martenet, Meursault ............................................................................ 36
Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet, Meursault.............................................................................. 39
Domaine Henri Germain, Meursault ..................................................................................... 41
Domaine Patrick Javillier, Meursault ..................................................................................... 42
Domaine Charles and Remi Jobard, Meursault ...................................................................... 45
Domaine François et Antoine Jobard, Meursault.................................................................... 47
Domaine Des Comtes Lafon, Meursault ................................................................................ 49
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Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault ...................................................................................... 52
Domaine Matrot, Meursault................................................................................................. 55
Domaine Pierre Morey, Meursault ........................................................................................ 58
Domaine Guy Roulot, Meursault .......................................................................................... 60
Domaine Darviot-Perrin, Monthélie ...................................................................................... 63
Domaine Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet.................................................................................. 66
Domaine Alain Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet............................................................................ 68
Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet.................................................................... 70
Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet.................................................................................. 72
Domaine Paul Pernot, Puligny-Montrachet ............................................................................ 76
Château De Puligny-Montrachet .......................................................................................... 78
Domaine Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet ....................................................................... 82
Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin ..................................................................................... 85
Domaine Larue, Gamay ...................................................................................................... 88
Domaine Guy Amiot & Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet................................................................ 90
Domaine Bruno Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet....................................................................... 93
Domaine Michel Colin-Déléger, Chassagne-Montrachet .......................................................... 96
Domaine Richard Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet.................................................. 97
Domaine René Lamy-Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet ..............................................................100
Domaine Marc Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet......................................................................104
Domaine Michel Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet .......................................................107
Domaine Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet...................................................................109
Domaine Paul Pillot et Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet...............................................................111
Domaine A et P de Villaine, Bouzeron ................................................................................113
Domaine Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Mâcon ....................................................................115
Note on the condition of the wine in June 2009: There was a wide spectrum in terms of how
‘raw’ and how finished the wines were. Some still had sugar. There was a lot of malic acidity,
which not only gives the impression of acidity wihc is high than the final total acidity will be, but
can make the wine a bit harder on the finish and make the wood tannins seem higher than they
actually are. (Total acidity is expressed in g/l H2SO4).
There was gas in many wines as the MLF had lasted for a long time. This CO2 promotes the fruit
and the body and makes the wines seem lively. They will tighten up to become more strict and
defined, but also less lively. There was quite a lot reduction and many wines would have been
racked soon after. Other wines were in a much more finished state, for example those which had
been racked and received SO2 some time before I tasted. If this was 2 weeks or more, the wine
assessed was more like the finished article. Fining will sharpen some of the less focused
samples. In tasting the wines I have sought to take these things into account. But it highlights
why a numerical score is inappropriate at this stage and why an indication of the potential quality
is better suited to unfinished wines which are in a different stage of preparation for the bottle.
2

Maison Champy
Mason Champy was the first négociant house to be established in Burgundy, in 1720, by Edme
Champy. Nineteen years ago when the family died out Pierre Meugey bought the company with
his father Henri. Pierre’s grandfather and father were wine brokers, but Pierre had ambitions to
produce wines when he joined the family business. However, they had no vineyards. The most
practical solution was to purchase an exiting négoce business and they had the opportunity to
buy Champy. “We wanted to keep this landmark in Burgundy alive. Champy might have
disappeared; not the name Champy, but the soul and identity of the place.”
Pierre continued, “To produce the best quality wine is to control the vineyards.” As brokers the
family had long term connections with producers, but Pierre wanted to go further and purchase
land. Today Champy have 17 hectares in the Côte de Beaune which they own or rent. The
regional wines come from purchased grapes and some wines come from purchased must, such
as the Chassagne village. In red the Mazis-Chambertin is purchased from two growers. They buy
this before harvest, instal their barrel, and get the first run juice at the press.
“My ambition,” says Pierre, “is to produce the most typical wines from Burgundy. Elegant and
pure. Purity of flavours is so important. Wines with good freshness and the mineral back bone
which is key to Burgundy. This is our goal. Not to have a heavy finger print on the wine. The
terroir has its story to tell. Just the regional wine – ie Bourgogne Signature is deliberately marked
by oak. It is deliberate to make a bridge for those coming from new world wines; to open their
eyes to enjoy Burgundy. Apart from this wine, we are ‘hands off,’ so we need the best must and
grapes.”
“We are biodynamic and will be certified biodynamic by 2010.” They started in 2004/5, but more
latterly decided to become certified as organic producers. Pierre was fed up with people saying
they are organic, when they are not. Will they use the certification “It seems that consumers are
interested. The estate will grow in vineyard area and we will reach a size to show the difference
in the wines which are organic.”
“To produce the best wine we are convinced we must have our own vineyards especially as we
can measure the differences in using biodynamics. It will re-enforce the places in which we make
good wines i.e. in the Côte de Beaune and will put us in a strong position for a couple of
appellations.”
“The results of being biodynamic in difficult years are amazing. The level of rot is much more
acceptable in the biodynamic vineyards and in years when ripeness is not so easy to achieve, we
get riper fruit, which also has good acidity and good pH. The TA is very good and the balance
between the pH and the acidity is very interesting. Biodynamics is interesting for it helps to give
very decent yields. So, not only does it produce better grapes, but at a good level of production.
It is not necessary to produce riduculously low yields to produce very good quality. We spoke to
Domaines Leflaive and Lafon, for example, who have been biodynamic for a long time and they
said their vines are in better health and produce more and better grapes. This helps compensate
for the slightly increased costs and greater commitment. Sometimes we are tempted to go into
too much detail… Everything we can do is achieved in the vineyard. This way it is possible to get
the best expression of every terroir.”
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“The next option we have taken is to produce wines which are approachable reasonably young
…use of oak, racking etc…as people are drinking wines young and the wines need to be
accessible. I don’t mean we use manipulation – no micro-oxygenation for example – but things
like earlier bottling and less heavy oaking. We want the wine to taste good young, while not
changing the wine’s potential. So our Corton-Charlemagne can be drunk at 4 or 5 years year old,
but hopefully at 10 or 15 years old it would be at the same stage as a wine made in a less
approachable, traditional style. We don't want in any way to compromise the quality and
potential.”
“The last option we have taken, especially for white wine, is to use controlled levels of sulphur
and we use more at the beginning than at the end.” Despite his biodynamic approach, Pierre
recognises the need for sulphur. “We have not had premature oxidation. We are not saying the
wines last for ever, but we have had not had any problems. There is a promise in a bottle of wine
that the wine should be as predicable in as possible.” (As an aside I asked if they bottle any
whites under stelvin. They will do the regional wines under screw cap on demand. He comments,
“I am disappointed by the strong resistance in some markets. In Australia the 2005 went well in
screw cap. In the USA however there is some resistance for example in wine bars they do not
want screw caps, but New Zealand and the UK (up until a certain level) are receptive. However
Pierre is not on a crusade for closures. Biodynamic and organic production are his passions.
Pierre and his winemaker Dimitri Bazas, who has been with the company since 1999, have been
keeping a close eye on, and careful analysis of, the effects of their biodynamics efforts. “There is
a stage in the first two years,” remarks Pierre, “that we get more rot. Speaking with people who
have also started with biodynamics, this is also their experience. The biodynamics tend to release
the phosphates from the soil – to detox the soil in the first years. It is unfortunate if this coincides
with a in a difficult year, for you will get more rot. We got more rot in 2006 in the
vineyards we were changing over to biodynamics.” Despite all the work they did they had more
rot here than anywhere else, “but now these vineyards have much more normal levels.”
Acidity: They have carefully observed Beaune, Champs Pimont for the past decade. In 1999 the
pH in the must after one pumping (to homogenise) was 3,19 and after fermention, but before
the MLF, 3,71. The degree was 13,00 and the TA 5.05g/l. In 2000 the pH was 3,33 and before
MLF 3,70. The degrees was 12,70 and the TA 5,75. This was a reflection of the Potassium,
Nitrogen and Phosphates in the soil, which was most evident after rain.
“But,” as Dimitri says, “in this past decade there has been an evolution to a better balance
between the natural degree of sugar and natural acidity and a good pH.” For example a pH in
2008 of 2.99 in must and before MLF 3.38 and after MLF 3.55 to 3.60. The degrees was 12,50
and the TA was 7,00. “This reflects the purification of the soil. The elements are now becoming
diluted and disappearing. So biodynamics and organic viticulture have helped purify the soil and
helped the roots go deeper. It is a virtuous cycle. We are bringing back the terroir to its more
original situation. This approach is very pragmatic. We observe the results. This is the nature of
our work and we want to produce wines this way.”
Dimiti describes 2008 as having concentrated fruit with a good acidic frame which gives the
energy after the MLF. “With this acidity we need bâtonage.” The Rully for example was stirred
once a week until the end of MLF. “Some say this is too much, but if you have selected lees, you
can do bâtonage without reduction.” He lists the advantages of bâtonage; it heps with the
richness and creamy texture, to finish the MLF and to make the wine more stable in its tartrates.
4

They says the 2008 was a bit challenging. They started the harvest 26th September. Dimitri
comments that the vinetage is a little less acidity than 2007, but has more flesh than in 2007.
The TA is generally half malic and half tartartic. For example the Meursault, Blagny has 4.0 malic
and 3.5 tartaric.
Bourgogne Aligoté
This was harvested at the beginning of October and was already in bottle by the end of May.
These vines in Pernard-Vergelesses and Volnay are owned by Champy. The yield is 50-55hl/ha.
The limit is for Aligoté is 70-72hl/ha. This is in the second year of conversion to organic
management. Everything is hand picked. It is cooled in stainless steel tanks. Like everything here
the fermentation starts without inoculation. It is temperature controlled to not exceed 21
degrees. The MLF takes place in stainless steel. After one racking, it has just short of a month
before bottling. It is a simple Aligoté, but there is a lot of attention to detail and it shows in the
resulting wine.
Attractive lemony aroma with a touch of mineral. It is very pure, slightly rounded, very fresh and
there is a hint of mineral on the finish. Certainly attractive and ready now.
Mâcon, Uchizy
Dimitri points out that this is in the north in the region, which does not make the more opulent
style of Mâcon. The vineyard is on the slopes. They do not block the MLF. It is only in stainless
steel. The bottling is in April.
Rich, citrus aroma. Rounded middle palate with notes of peach and apricot. Quite plump and
creamy, but fresh on the finish. Very nicely balanced. Pleasantly attractive. Ready now.
*Bourgogne, Chardonnay
Only stainless steel. One third from the Mâconnais and one third from the Côte d’Or. The MLF
finished recently. It will be racked this week and then have a sulphur addition. It is still on lees.
The SO2 will straighten it out a bit.
Lots of lees on the nose. Lovely sweet acidity with a quite curvaceous middle palate and good
weight. It has juicy mandarin fruit with touch of lemon. It is zesty on the finish. A good balance.
Very Attractive. From early 2010.
Bourgogne, Chardonnay Signature
The MLF is half finished. Cask sample. 50 barrels. (15,000 bottles.) The grapes all come from the
plain of Puligny and Meursault and some from Rully. It is blended and chilled before the alcoholic
fermentation and it is all put in barrel with 25% of new wood. Dimitri explains how this is a very
different concept to the more traditional Bourgogne Blanc. It is a Chardonnay to compete with
Chardonnays from the rest of the world and to act as a bridge for those who are perhaps new to
Burgundy.
There is plenty of the new wood evident with attractive nutty flavours. It is creamy and forward,
rounded and generous. It is a showy Chardonnay and very accessible. The fruit is rich, but there
is plenty of juicy acidity to freshen the palate. It is very pleasing and will appeal to many, but
retains a distinctly Burgundian identity. Very attractive. From 2010
Rully
Champy have started to do Rully again. They found a good supplier in 2007 and began with 20
barrels. “We wanted a Rully with good personality,” remarks Dimitri. After finding a second
decent grower, they produced 50 barrels (228 litre barrels) in 2008. It is all barrel fermented with
25% of new oak. The MLF had just finished and this already had a SO2 addition, but no racking.
They will rack June and then bottle in September.
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Rich aroma with hazelnut notes. Creamy entry to the palate, which is svelte and well rounded. It
is quite broad with juicy, quite opulent fruit, ripe but fresh. (The acidity will diminish a bit). It has
an appealingly fruit-driven finish, creamy at the very end. Good. From late 2010
*Saint-Romain
Purchased grapes, but they do the harvest themselves. This used to be harvested mechanically
by the grower, but in 2004 Maison Champy asked him to harvest it later. It was impractical for
the grower to do so, but he suggested that Champy did it themselves.
It is from the lieut-dit of En Poillange, 300m above sea level. There are 22 barrels. 1/3 new oak.
Dimitri considers that the ‘terroir’ extends to include the cooper. They use local coopers, Demi
(Allier medium toast) and an artisan cooper in Saint Romain (Vosges medium toast). “We want to
add to the terroir,” he remarks. “These are local craftsman, so they are part of the terroir.”
The MLF is finished and it has received a recent addition of SO2, but it was not racked. Dimitri
waits for the appropriate moment in the lunar calendar to rack; for the descending moon when
the wine has settled. “So that when we bottle, it we can do as little as possible and then the
wines can be drunk immediately after bottling. Having to wait for a year after bottling, (so called
bottle-sickness) is a thing of the past. We want the wine unfiltered, but clear and technically
correct. It must be well done and the wine must be accessible immediately, but able to last for 3
or 4 years or so.”
This has some high-toned, citrus notes in among the lees ones. The palate has a silky, quite ripe
base note and a fresh lemony high part to the palate. Lovely streamlined, bright and saline. The
minerality is woven with citrus acidity, which carries on the lively and direct finish. Vivacious.
Good+. From 2010
*Pernand-Vergelesses
Pernand-Vergelesses is the Champy flagship. Originally they purchased must and grapes “and
every time the wine was well received.” So in 2004 they jumped at the opportunity to take over
the vines on a long term contact with the growers they had been using. Champy now have
village, two premier cru and Corton-Charlemagne.
“We control the cultivation of 1 hectare or so and are beginning to see the results of the organic
production.” They purchase some more grapes for this wine to producing 60 barrels making this
their largest production after the generic Bourgogne Chardonnay. It comes from Les Plantes des
Champs, Derrière Frétille and La Morand. There is some new oak.
Dimitri points out that Pernand-Vergelesses was planted with 75% Pinot Noir in the 70s, but now
it is 50% Chardonnay and “there is some legitimacy for this because of the marl/limestone, so
can be a terroir for whites.”
Deeper aroma, more robust. The palate has a little grip, is compact, quite taut and very citrus.
Good and dense for a village wine. There is sweet and zesty minerality on the finish. Very Good.
From 2010
In 2007 and 2008 they did leaf plucking and part of this compact quality, Dimitri says, is due to
this leaf plucking. They did this, not to have high degree, but to aerate the vine and decrease
humidity and risk of rot.
*Pernand-Vergelesses, Sous Frétille
Certified organic grapes. (The grower is certified organic). Just three barrels of this. 1 new oak, 1
year old barrel and one 2 year old barrel.
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Dimitri is part of an advisory body which is helping to bring about some changes to the labelling
of wine made with organic grapes. At the moment one can label wine as being ‘made from
organic (bio) grapes.’ It is hoped that by 2010/2011 there will be a European directive to allow
labelling for organic wine if certain regulations in the winery are complied with, including levels of
sulphur and the avoidance of synthetic products.
Attractive and intense aroma. Bold attack with ample rich fruit. Nicely concentrated and firm
middle palate. It is trim with taut, compact layering, shale and cold stone. Tight and quite
powerful on the savoury finish. Very to Particularly Good. From 2011
Beaune, Les Reversée
Four barrels, one of which new oak.
Quite a glossy, fruit driven aroma. It is fruity, full-bodied, quite broad, concentrated, rounded and
nicely fresh on the finish and juicy. A fulsome and forward wine. Very good. From 2010.
Saint-Aubin, Les Castets
Finishing the MLF now. They purchase the grapes from this S/E facing vineyard at 300 m.
Warm bread aromas of MLF. The palate is ripe and lemony, very juicy and sweetly fresh. There is
peachy, creamy, silky minerality on the finish, which is reasonably well sustained. Very good.
From 2010
*Saint-Aubin, Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Harvested on the 2 nd October. Finishing the MLF now.
Despite the MLF finishing it has a much more intense citrus aroma coming through the warm
bready notes. This pounces on the palate with verve. The intense apricot fruit is contained in a
well defined, linear structure. It glimmers with minerality and focuses to a saline, chalky and
zesty finish. A racy wine with good persistence. Particularly good+. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet
2 barrels made from the vineyards of the same 2 growers each year. This is purchased in must,
much as Champy would like to purchase the fruit in grapes. Dimitri comments that, try as they
might, it is impossible to purchase grapes from Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault. The growers
will not sell in grapes, only the must. These growers are perhaps prouder than in other villages
and consider that they know their vines and can do a good job in turning them into must. 30%
new oak. MLF finished and it is stabilized with SO2.
This is fresh and flowery. The attack is floral, slightly spicy and the palate is well contained and
lime-fresh, bright and tense. It has a racy finish and is really zesty and nicely focused with a lift
of minerality at the end. Very appealing. Very Good. From 2011
*Meursault
4 barrels from must purchased from just one grower. MLF finished.
A broader and more mandarin aroma. Creamy textured, rich with ripe peach, but very fresh. This
has decent energy combined with soft, smooth minerality. The finish is intense and of good
length for village. Very Good. From late 2011
*Meursault, Blagny
Only 3 barrels.
Very floral aroma; high toned. It is lifted, lithe, strictly defined and has a high wire of nervous
energy. There is a zesty minerality. Firm and streamlined palate, racy, pure and very well edged.
Flighty, pure and saline finish. Fine. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chenevottes
6 barrels. This was picked on the 6th or 7 th October.
7

Orange, spicy, rich and lower toned. It is broad and expands across the palate. There are slightly
exotic floral notes, a touch of cinnamon and a juicy finish. The acidity sits deep in the wine. A
forward, quite overt wine with decent depth. Particularly Good. From 2011
Corton-charlemagne
Pernand-Vergelesses side. They stopped stirring this in April and it will be racked in July and put
in stainless steel for bottling in November. There were low yields and leaf plucking was carried
out to get the richness to be accessible, without compromising its ageabilty.
This has lovely ripe fruit, spice and pear on the aroma. Plenty of rich fruit and slight sheen on the
attack. Svelte texture and delicious white peach fruit in the mid palate, yet seriously underpinned
with a firm, stony core and cool minerality. There is excellent substance, dimension and muscle.
It is accessible, not austere in the typical way, yet has depth and precision and a powerful, long
finish which will stand it in good stead for ageing for a decade or two. Fine to very fine. From
2012
Stockists
UK:
Hayes, Hanson and Clark
8

Maison Chanson Père et Fils
Giles de Courcel, President of Maison Chanson, comments, “In the final days we had a perfect
Indian summer, which matured the grapes in good conditions. We were really wondering what
would happen as they were so poor at the end of August. However the weather changed around
the 12th to the 15 th September. We started harvesting on the 24 th September and finished on
10 th October.” Chanson has an impressive 45 hectares of domaine land. They need 130 pickers
every year to harvest everything in 10 days.
When Giles de Courcel joined in 2002, he radically changed things at Chanson. This négociant
now makes most of their own wine. In respect of whites they buy principally in grapes, although
some is in must. (Most of the contracts have been made by Giles. Prior to this the négoce bought
largely in wine.) They also harvest some of the growers’ vines using their own pickers. Giles has
built a new winery on the way out to Savigny, where most of the production takes place, and he
has restored the original winery in the medieval centre of Beaune. This is now used principally for
ageing wines ,and the impressive cellars are located in the Bastion de L’Oratoire in the fortified
medieval walls of Beaune.
“A good vintage,” says the winemaker Jean-Pierre Confuron, somewhat conservatively as he
clearly prefers the red to the white in 2008. “We have a lot of malic acidity this year.” They did.
It was recorded on average at 6g/l malic and 4.5-5g/l tartaric. “We would normally expect 4g/l
malic and 4g/l tartaric. There is more acidity than in 2007 and after the MLF it will still be high.”
However he points out that “this is a normal level for me.” During the nineties and earlier this
decade, he feels that the weather and the winemaking generally reduced the acidity in Burgundy
and this was disappointing. “Now we have higher acidity in the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages
and this is good.”
Most of the wine was mid MLF which, points out Jean-Pierre, was not late in comparison with
2004.
They harvested red before white. The latest was Folatières which, Jean-Pierre tells me, gained a
staggering 2 degrees alcohol in the last 4 days, due to the north wind. Unusually he recalls this
as being a hot wind. “The temperature was 28 degrees. It was amazing,” he says. It changed the
analysis of the grapes completely. For example, Folatières would have measured about 8% to
9% degrees potential alcohol on the 12 th September and about 10g/l TA.
Chanson had to do some de-selection for oidium and botrytis; about 5% to 15% in whites. Over
all, however, they made normal quantities.
I tasted from one year old oak. The 1er crus have about 20% new oak and no more than 22%.
*Viré Clessé
Jean-Pierre stopped a part of the MLF in the Viré Clessé, about one quarter, in order to protect
the acidity in the ripe fruit of the Mâconnais and to create a better balance. It is pressed locally
and vinified in the winery near Savigny at 18-22 degrees. Chanson use the same growers every
year now. “We take a lot of Clessé and focus on this. One grower is in Viré, but this is a small
percentage. We like Clessé for the minerality, while the Viré brings more fat and richness,”
comments Giles. This will be bottled at the end of June and shipped next January. Giles likes Viré
Clessé after 2 years in bottle and comments that the 2006 is showing very well now.
9

Expressive ripe citrus aroma. Quite full on the front of the palate and lightly rounded in the
middle. It straightens out to become more streamlined with firm minerality and acidity on the
finish. Good purity and energy. Very attractive+. From late 2010
Chablis vintage: Jean-Pierre comments on the bad conditions during the season with high
acidity and low sugar, so that the harvest was late. Chanson started harvesting on the 28 th
September and picked everything in one week. Jean-Pierre feels it will be better than 2007. “A
better balance and structure. There was high mineral and acidity in 2007, but in 2008 there is
higher sugar and more weight to balance the higher acidity.”
Chablis
They have a good selection of different growers from the village of Chablis. The growers here
mostly pick by hand, press and Chanson take the must. There is no oak, just vats. Bottled.
Firm pure, straight aroma. Zesty attack to a linear and neatly edged palate. Silky mineral finish,
straight and of good length for a village wine. Good+ From late 2010
Chablis, Montmains
Two different growers. Mostly from Fôret. “We like this for its minerality.” 30% is in 350 litres
casks and the rest of the cuvée is in vat. This is from the wood. It was just at the end of the
MLF.
Nutty aroma. Good, firm middle palate woven with smooth minerality. It focused well. Fresh
acidity and a tight long mineral finish with plenty of citrus fruit. Very to particularly good. From
2011/12
*Chablis, Montée de Tonnerre
This is fermented in wood, but racked into vat for MLF, “to protect the aroma, as we felt it was
too woody and we wanted to respect the typicity of Tonnerre terroir,” said Giles. It is the middle
of MLF.
Appealingly rich aroma with a touch of apricot and spice. There is slightly more weight, and it is
nicely compact and layered with minerality in the middle and tension at the end of the palate.
Tight and focused. Lovely bright acidity, although this will change somewhat. Sweet, polished
minerality on the finish. Fine. From 2012
Chablis, Les Clos
One grower. Hand harvested. Vinified in 350 l casks and at the end of the MLF.
Opulent ripe aromas, intense with notes of rich peach. Rounded, full attack and curvaceous on
the middle palate with quite some weight and density. An unctuous and rather overt Les Clos
with plenty of concentrated fruit. Smooth and ripe with juicy acidity and soft, polished minerality
on the long finish. Fine to Fine+ From 2012
Savigny-lès-Beanue, Hauts Marconnets
Silky and svelte, rippling on to the palate. Lively straight and pure. Bight citrus fruit and racy on
the finish with some fresh mineral notes. Good to very good. From 2012
Beaune, Clos de Mouches
Chanson owns 4.5 hectares of Clos de Mouches, two of which are in white.
This is rather rich and generous. It has a supple sheen and nutty, bready notes from the MLF.
Rounded palate, seductive, curvaceous, open and expressive with somewhat spicy, succulent
peach fruit and a juicy, bright finish. Attractive, but perhaps rather soft and very fruit driven.
Very good+ From 2011/12
10

Meursault
Chanson harvests this fruit on behalf of the grower.
A slightly spicy and mandarin tinged aroma. Sweet attack to a nicely plump middle palate with
good viscosity and appealing spicy notes. Ripe with well balanced acidity and a fruit driven finish.
Perfectly decent village wine with good typicité. Good. From 2011
Puligy-Montrachet
Bought in grapes, half of which Chanson harvest themselves.
This is more upright, slightly tense and has an edge of minerality Attractively sprightly attack.
This is zesty, energetic and has a good channelled palate and a bright zesty finish. Vivacious. (It
has not finished its MLF yet). Good+. From 2011
*Chassagne-Montrachet
1 hectare of domaine vines. Finished MLF
Broad, open and flowery aroma. Quite languid with sweet and juicy pipe pear characters. It
follows through with some firm more stony characters and good concentration to a decent finish
with a touch of smooth minerality. Good++. From 2011
`
Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Caradeaux
MLF has finished. These are Domaine vines and there are 2 hectares. Giles comments, “This is
one of the vineyards we are most proud of. The vines start a quarter of the way up the slope and
continue to the top of the hill. There are a lot of stones. The land is like Corton with a cooler east
facing exposure. It lies on the way out of the valley, so it has a cool wind and is always a
vineyard that matures late.”
This is has weight, density and ripe flesh. There is a dark, bold character. It is grippy and well
defined and has a taut stony finish. Good vigour on this more masculine wine. It finishes well.
Particularly Good. From 2012
*Meursault, Blagny
MLf was 75% of the way through. This come from a grower. It is bought in must as the grower
makes his own wine and will only sell it this way, but Giles evidently has confidence in him.
Chanson takes their cask up to Blagny. This is from the Meursault side. Further on in the tasting
we tasted some Blagny from the Puligny side.
Good sheen to the aroma and a silky, svelte attack. Warm, golden fruit. It has charm and
elegance and a lovely, sweet long and racy finish. Lovely purity and lime freshness on the finish.
Possibly Fine. From 2012
*Meursault, Perrières
One grower. Their oldest contract – 30 years. “It is a very good relationship,” says Giles. “It is
bought in must as the grower keeps some for himself.”
This is more reserved on the aroma (it is half way though MLF). Taut, pounce on the attack.
Tight grippy, pure and straight and quite austere. Very well defined. Depth, precision and
intensity with plenty of mineral on the finish which is long, well edged and vivacious. Fine. From
2012
Puligny-Montrachet, Hameau de Blagny
50% though MLF. This is the same grower as before
One year old barrel yet it dominates. The wine underneath it is tight, mineral and focused. The
energy is zesty and lively and the line is long. However the more overt character of the barrel
from this cooper dominates at the moment, masking the purity, but the minerality of the wine
comes through on the finish. It is fortunate that this is just one of five barrels and the others are
11

not from this cooper. Assuming the effect of the wood is much diluted, potentially particularly
good. From 2012
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Champs Gain
75-90% though MLF. Chanson harvest the grapes.
Sweet, silky and seductive aroma with a touch of high spice. Glides seductively onto the palate.
Ripe fruit with a slightly crystallized citrus characters and sweet mineral notes sewn into the fruit.
Smooth, silky and long. It is rather suave and ripples to the finish. A nicely ripened Champ Gain
which combines ripeness and minerality very well. Particularly Good+. From 2011/12
*Puligny-Montrachet, Folatières
Domaine land. This has finished MLF.
Very pure and bright. It is lifted, energetic attack. Taut middle palate with vibrant tension of fruit
and acidity. Lovely stone minerality, slight spice and good intensity. Verve on the finish. Firmly
fine. From 2012
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chenevottes
MLF finished. Chanson own 2 hectares.
This has richness, orange blossom and juicy fruit. It is full and has very good depth and intensity.
There is richness and weight with lovely ripe fruit; crystallised lemon and apricot balanced with
lively acidity. Lovely long tight, zesty finish with some power. It combines energy, tension and
lovely fruit. It’s a good Les Chenevottes. Potentially Fine. From 2012
Corton-Charlemagne
MLF finished.
This is zesty, pure tight and stony. Racy and fine and tight and lively. Juicy fruit and zesty acidity.
It has a long and floral finish. There is delicacy and intensity here. A light, long fine, saline finish.
Fine. From 2013
Corton Vergennes
MLF has just started in the Vergennes. “Facing east on the hill. It is red soil generally on this
slope and the Chandonnay is planted on the stone outcrops. There are heaps of stone and
islands of Chardonnay on the stone,” says Giles.
This is much more muscular, powerful dense and rich. There is grip , power and vigour. Big wine
with a serious full throttled finish. Very straight, dense and well honed. The acidity will change,
but the stony muscularity will remain. Fine to very fine. From 2015.
Stockists
UK:
Mentzendorff
12

Maison Joseph Drouhin
In Chablis the Drouhin family began to purchase vineyards in 1968, which were put under the
Joseph Drouhin label. This year they are celebrating their 40th anniversary in Chablis. To mark
the occasion Vaudon – seven hectares of vineyards will be rebranded as Douhin Vaudon from the
2008 vintage with a new modern label. Frédérick Drouhin explains “the vineyards and the
vinification are the same, but we are now more precise in the way we do it. The vineyards belong
to family members, so will it will say ‘family estate.’ We have been biodynamic since 1997 and in
2009 we will get the organic certification, although we will not put the logo on the label. We want
the consumer to trust our name first. These vineyards feel well. The consumers will begin to
perceive the taste difference with Chablis; the organic viticulture and the change of vinification.
We have abandoned the use of new wood in Chablis.”
Jerôme Fabrac the winemaker at Drouhin spoke about the slow fermentations and malolactics.
“The character of the must is very important in 2008. With high acidity the must is predisposed
(chemically) be become much clearer. (It settled clearer). This has an impact (because of the low
nutrients) on the alcoholic fermentation and a can make the MLF very slow. Bâtonage helps.
In the cellar here we decided to use bâtonnage, because of the high acidity we wanted to make
the palate rounder. With the whites in stainless steel it is not easy to make bâtonnage. We used
the double rotating tanks we have for some reds. We had to be more technical. Using this
method the MLF started early, just after the alcoholic fermentation.
But with the Chablis we do not have these tanks, so we used remontage (all very reductively) in
stainless steel. Inoculating doesn’t work. We tried to inoculate, but industrial bacteria need a high
pH. We prefer the natural way. Chablis is usually bottled now, but we are not in a hurry to bottle
the wine.
For all the samples, I was shown the final blend, but it is worth noting that for the tasting these
have been lightly filtered. This ‘polish’ mean they were shown in very good condition, whereas
everything else I tasted over the 3 weeks was not. Some were in a very raw state. So this is an
advantage. When the wine is bottled, it may not be fined. It is not systematic.
Sadly it is not the full range.
Chablis, Domaine Vaudon
An excellent village Chablis with lime-fruit, a touch of mirabelle, very pure and straight with
plenty of juicy depth. It is complimented by sweet acidity and there is rich mineral on the finish.
Top notch. From 2010
The next 3 wine were at the end of MLF, sitting on lees.
Chablis, Vaillons
Lifted minerality on the nose. Very lemony, floating, yet glossy and fresher with juicy acidity. An
elegant middle palate and a silky sweet finish. Fine. From 2011/12
*Chablis, Sécher
Two parcels. In one of the parcels, as Philippe has explained before, the old vines were dying
from a virus. They saved it using biodynamics. This has been one of the most dramatic results
from using biodynamic methods.
13

Pure tight long line. This has more minerality and a streamlined palate. It has ripe, but neatly
edged fruit and vitality. Lovely finish woven with shimmering minerality. Fine. From 2012/13
Chablis, Fourneaux
This is new for them. “I wanted to broaden the range. We looked for a grower with vineyards
who was harvesting by hand and would follow our recommendation for the pressing. We waited
some time before we found someone and have started with him for the 2008 vintage. We
wanted a vineyard on the right bank.”
Darker softer minerality. Rounded, full palate. It is juicy, ripe with blossom characters on the
finish. It is not so mineral, or so tightly textured, but generous and open. The acidity sits in the
wine. The finish is not quite as long as the Sécher. Particularly good. From 2012
Chablis, Bougros
This is Frédérick’s vineyard. He has 0.33 hectares.
The MLF is 70% done. “This is the vineyard where we have the most quality improvement with
organic techniques” remarks Frédérick. It was replanted in 1971, when it was bought for
Frédérick. “The soil in the past was very light,” he says.
This has more evident oak on the aroma, but this could be the malic accentuating it. There is
breadth, full bodied with a note of fennel and mandarin. There is a rich, thick line to a full, fruit
driven finish. It has plenty of appeal and some substance, but the finish is not as long as it might
be for grand cru. Fine. From 2013
*Chablis, Vaudésir
West and South/West facing. 1.5 hectares. 1/2 hectare is 60 year old vines and is the “the good
kid of the classroom, never bad,” Frédérick says. “The other hectare is just below and in the
middle of the crescent of Vaudesir and S-S/W.” They are harvested at the same time, but
pressed separately. MLF 95%
Lifted, floral and intense aromatics. Svelte, ripe citrus fruit on the attack. Pure, elegant and very
streamlined palate woven with cool minerality. It is long and flowing; intense, but graceful with a
touch of white flowers. It is threaded with polished minerality on the long finish. A grand cru with
finesses. Very fine. From 2013
Chablis, Les Clos
“The major parcel is on the higher part of Les Clos with more sunshine hours,” says Frédérick.
“There are some very old vines and some very well behaved vineyards. Our neighbours were
very worried when we became organic that this would allow more diseases to develop, but on
the contrary our vineyard is now the healthiest vineyard and now our neighbours phone for
advice.” 80% MLF.
This has a full, dense rich middle palate. Plenty of gras and substance. Touch of aniseed. A fuller,
richer wine with less minerality, but with lovely deep and creamy fruit lighted with notes of
orange blossom. Very persistent. Fine to very fine. From 2013
*Laforêt Bourgogne
We buy this in grapes, must and wine, mostly from Mâconnais and Côte Chalonnaise. It was a
small crop in the Mâconnais because of the hail storm. We are down 20%, although the quality is
not affected in the whites. Fruit from the Mâconnais is not enough. It makes a wine which is too
simple, so we also use fruit from better origins. There is some fruit from below the main 3 village
of the Cote de Beaune as well. which go into older wood, while the Mâconnais goes into stainless
steel. Screw cap on this wine.
Very spicy, ripe and exotic aroma. Sweet fruit the palate, somewhat tropical and floral. Juicy, full
and very expressive. A pleasing and accessible wine. Very pleasing. From 2010
14

Saint-Véran
It is too far to bring grapes, so they bring it to the winery in must. The growers get a work sheet
for the pressing. Some of them are making wine. If this is the case, they are visited by Drouhin’s
oenologist who goes round and checks that they are following Drouhin’s instructions.
Very spicy and exotic aroma. The fruit is opulent and quite tropical. Spicy, pink floral notes. Wide
palate, open and softish. Juicy finish. Attractive. From 2010
*Rully
Partly estate, partly purchased grapes and partly a 1er cru vineyard. The same every year. 85%
through MLF
Bright, ripe, lively and citrus. A good firm line, very lifted, fresh, with a good middle palate and a
tight, pure fruit-driven finish. Nicely precise Rully. Very good. From late 2010.
Meursault
Expansive aroma. on the nose. Full and rounded with firm acidity. It is succulent, but not too
heavy and there is some sweet minerality which comes though on the finish. Very good. From
late 2010/11
*Puligny-Montrachet
Good focus on the palate, ripe fruit, pure tight and rippling with firm minerality. It is crisply
edged and nicely focused on the finish. A good balance of richness with energy and minerality.
Very good+. From 2011
*Chassagne-Montrachet
90% MLF
This has en engaging floral, blossomy characters on the middle palate which is open and inviting.
This tightens to a focused finish with some lively minerality. Very Good+ From 2010/11
Puligny-Montrachet, Folatières
MLF is finished
A slightly topical aroma, pink, very spicy and ripe. Soft attack, rounded palate, very exotic and
juicy. The acidity is notably high and a little aggressive at the moment; however they will do
some bâtonage to bring the wine into balance.
*Beaune, Clos Des Mouches
This was harvested over 10 days and so there are several different vinifications and at the end
they blend.
This is lightly floral, gentler. It has a rounded, satin palate with juicy acidity, ample, but very
pure. There is a lovely depth to the fruit entwined with fine minerality. It is pure, lifted and floral
on the finish. Fine. From 2012
*Meursault, Perrières
70% MLF. This has one of the highest levels of acidity when they brought the grapes and the
high malic has accentuated the oak. However this has finesses. A precise Meursault with finely
edged ripe fruit. It has a tight mineral spine and a pure, shimmering line to a lovely long finish.
Very focused and persistent. Fine+. From 2012
Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeots
70% MLF. The two parcels were harvested over more than a week.
Dense and full on the aroma. Quite strict and compact. This has got muscle with the ripe fruit
and dark minerality. An assertive finish. Particularly good, possibly Fine. From 2012
15

*Corton-Charlemagne
The parcel is in Languettes. “Philippe always loves this because it is so easy to manage,” says
Frédérick. “The grapes are small and never too compact so if there is pressure of rot, we don’t
get it here.” MLF is 80% through.
Ringing, lifted pure aroma. Very intense. Straight onto the palate, direct, powerful and precise
with saline minerality. It is crisply edged with a very fine finish. Very fine. From 2013/14
Bâtard-Montrachet
From the estate and purchased must.
This is very floral and spicy on the nose. Full bodied with golden fruit and substance. It has
weight and density. Spicy, volumous Bâtard. Fine(+). From 2013
Stockists
UK/USA:
Contact the agents: Pol Roger
16

Maison Olivier Leflaive
“No frost, just a cold moment in the flowering which mostly had consequence for Chardonnay,”
said Frank Grux, the winemaker at Olivier Leflaive. “There was millerandange. I knew that the
yield would be low due to this. Because of this the harvest should have come forward, but July
and August were wet and there was no light in August.”
“The summer was unbelievable…July and August…no T-shirts. It was cold and cloudy and it
looked like a disaster. But we are human and we are surprised by nature. Rain, no light, no
correct temperature. We had not enough sugar and too much acidity, but the vineyard
continued….
“We were very lucky with the health in September. It was the reverse of 2004 and some 2007s,
for it was much healthier globally. At the end of August, we were just ten days before the
standard 100 days after flowering and we had a complicated situation; a potential disaster.”
Frank was not hopeful and points out that for a long time people have been unaccustomed to
wait longer than the 100 days, but now people have to adapt with the vintage. “We had to wait,
but the weather was troubled. It was cloudy and wet. We very lucky, for on the second day of
September the skies cleared. There was no sun, but there was light and wind. It was the best
wind we could have; a cold north/east wind. Globally we had this for 10 days. This dried the soil.
We had no botrytis problems. Concentration appeared. The yield was concentrated by the wind,
which concentrated not just the sugar, but the acidity (and in the reds the tannin) as well as the
sugar.
We adapted the harvest by village for the right balance of acidity and sugar. It was a bit of a
circus, visiting the vineyards up to 10 times, so that we were able to pick at the right time.”
Olivier Leflaive had 60 people working for 4 weeks. They began 18 th September and finished on
the 15th October. “It was necessary to wait, but within limits. For example Pernand-Vergelesses
and Auxey-Duresses are normally later and they could have left them later still. “We could have
left the Auxey-Duresses longer perhaps, but we cropped with the Meursault. It was complicated
to judge at the beginning, but we were quiet because of the health was good.”
Frank describes the sugar as good but not exceptional from 12 up to 14% potential alcohol in
some 1er cru Puligny and Meursault especially where there was the north/east wind and
millerandage. He describes the acidity as high with a good proportion of tartaric and malic. “The
TA was similar to 2007 after the MLF, a little bit higher than in 2007 about 0.1 or 0.2 higher.”
“2008 has more concentrated character, more glycerol and is richer than 2007.” Because of this
in 2008 they used no battonage. They fermented with the lees, but used no stirring at all
whereas normally they would stir until Christmas and then stop. The 2007 was also stirred only a
little, but this was because the “fruit was too delicate and we wanted a clean style.”
The following winter was correctly cold, which was good as we wanted a long process in the
winery. Before malolactic the wines were not nice. Only now in June can they be tasted.” All the
wines we tasted had finished MLF and the blends are 90-95% finalized.
“2008 is in a style which could change in the next few months. I want to conserve the fresh
character with not too much fruit extract. I want some of the spirit of 2007, fresh and vibrant. I
find some of the 2008 is too rich, but afterwards it is a question of finesses, of subjective tasting.
17

The yield is sometimes very low and too low does not mean great. In 1998 it was low because of
the frost damage and too little was not great. I want freshness and minerality and acidity on the
finish. At the moment I find the 2008s more in advance than I thought they would be.
“At the moment I love Chassagne,” say Frank. “But I love the restriction of the Meursault, which
normally means I will love it more later. With the low yield in Meursault we concentrated the
minerality more; Le Tillet and Narvaux are more mineral.” The Puligny was more trouble, but
Puligny never shows well at this point.”
“The luck we had was mainly with the premier cru. It was because of the low yield. The grand
crus were yielded above average. The 1er crus are better,” thinks Frank. He comments that the
prices will decrease from 10-20% for the négoce, as they had to pay less and will pass this on
the customer. He would buy the village and premier cru in this vintage.
“2008 is naturally more rich and more compact than 2007,” said Frank Grux.
Chablis
In Chablis Frank describes the conditions as better than in the Côte de Beaune. “It did not have
the same amount of rain. The mineral Kimmeridgean character is very evident. The 2005 and
2006 are rich. The 2007 disturbed by hail, but in 2008 you get the precise mineral and proper
character of Chablis. I like them more than Côte de Beaune.”
Attractive citrus and white peach aroma. Lifted and bright. The palate is nicely ripe, very lemony,
zesty and fresh. It has a cool, fruity finish which is slightly saline on the finish. Very attractive to
good. From late 2009
The following two Chablis are barrel aged in old wood.
Chablis, Côte de Léchet
A parcel from on top of the hill.
Bight lifted and citrusy. It has a zesty attack and pounces on to the palate. The mid palate is
saline with fresh acidity and is crisp and tense. It is a lively, very attractive Côte de Léchet with a
decent chalky finish. Very to particularly good. From late 2010/11
Chablis, Fourchaume
In the central part. This had a longer fermentation and MLF than Léchet.
Richer aroma; more darkly mineral with a slightly flowery, low-toned character. It has quite a
broad palate, which is dense and has some depth and intensity. Quite a robust, quartzy finish. At
the moment Côte de Léchet is more precise, but this wine will be sharpened up a bit before
bottling. Particularly good. From late 2011
*Chablis, Vaudésir
This comes from two vineyard parcels. It has been taken it out of wood and put in tank to make
it more precise.
It is a bit sultry, but there are some attractive floral notes on the aroma. The palate is also a bit
sulky, but has creamy texture and floral character with notes of white peach and it is a touch
exotic. It has crisp acidity and has an underlying taut energy and smooth minerality. This tension
under the fruit carries to a cool, persistent wet stone finish. I don’t think it was showing as well
as it will. At the moment, Fine, but potentially fine++. From 2012
18

*Bourgogne, Les Setilles
This will be an assemblage of the following samples in about a 50/50 proportion . Both wines are
barrel aged with very little new oak. There will be 20% of wine from tank, which I did not try.
Bourgogne sample A which comes from mainly around Meursault. This has a creamy, peachy
aroma and a soft silky, seductive mouth-feel. It is generous and curvaceous, but tightens up on
the finish to become more direct. It has a very decent, attractive finish for Bourgogne Blanc.
Bourgogne sample B which comes from mainly around Puligny. This is higher toned, slightly more
mineral, citrus and spicy and more lifted. Lighter and airy on the palate with citrus notes and a
more direct character. It has fresh acidity and energy which carries to a zesty, saline finish. Again
a very decent length for Bourgogne Blanc. It is not abrupt, but carries reasonably well.
Together they should make a really very good Bourgogne which should over-deliver. Corney and
Barrow and Wine Society distribute this in the UK. It’s a top notch calling card.
The next premier cru wines are both racked.
Montagny, Bonneveaux
South facing slope which receives a complete day of sun. Middle and top of the hill. They harvest
these themselves and like to wait longer than is usual here. “I think the really good style of
Montagny will come back in a few weeks. We are careful with wood and never have more than 5-
10% new oak. It is not a terroir to harvest too late, as it can pass from floral and fruity to too
heavy.”
This has a rich and expressive aroma redolent of ripe apricot. Leisurely pace on the palate,
rounded, full, rich and juicy with ripe citrus acidity and a generous fruity finish. Very good. From
2011
*Rully, Rabourcé
The soil is much rockier here.
An herbal aroma, lifted with notes of aniseed and fennel. It springs on the attack. It is zesty,
bright and has decent intense citrus notes. There is a sherberty minerality and a racy finish. Very
good. From late 2010
Then followed 3 village wines of which the Pernand-Vergelesses was my favourite.
*Pernand-Vergelesses
4 plots
This is attractively perfumed with a ripe note of peach. After this it seems quite austere on the
attack. Straight, masculine and channelled. There is a taut gravelly character. It is focused,
battened down and austerely stony. I like it. Good saline finish. Top notch village. From 2011
Saint-Romain, Sous-le-Chateau
Creamy and flowery with a hint of mandarin and slight spice. Zesty attack to a rather energetic
and streamlined palate, which has ripe citrus fruit and a sherberty, lifted finish. Good+. From late
2010
Auxey-Duresses, La Macabrée
Dark and more restrained with a floral note. Rather a spicy palate, rounded, lower toned, slightly
lethargic and a little coarse. It’s somewhat more masculine, but also seems a bit clunky although
the gravelly finish is decent enough. From late 2010/2011.
19

Two Saint-Aubin premier cru were the next wines.
*Saint-Aubin, En Remilly
This was harvested before the Sur Gamay. There is 40 m of altitude difference between the two.
“We want to preserve the brilliant character and do not want too much alcohol,” remarks Frank.
Plenty of estery aromas. This has a bright, lively aroma. It dances nervously across the palate.
streamlined and refreshing. There is a finely woven chalky note, which focuses on a reasonably
long finish. A spirited Saint-Aubin with lovely En Remilly typicity. Particularly good. From 2011
Saint-Aubin, Sur Gamay
A richer aroma with a creamy entry to the palate. It is plump and juicy with a hint of ripe apple
and marzipan. It is full and dense, for Saint-Aubin and perhaps a touch ponderous. A punchy but
modest finish. Very good+ From 2010
A flight of three Meursault, among which Narvaux stood out.
*Meursault, Narvaux
A golden, ripe mandarin aroma. The attack is juicy and fruit driven with plenty of zesty citrus. It
then immediately becomes quite nervous and overtly mineral. It has a taut middle palate and
dark, graphite minerality. A pacey top note runs above a compact, dense, shaley palate. It is
really rather intense and has an assertive quartzy finish. An arresting and stylish Narvaux. A very
good lieut-dit nudging into Particularly Good. From 2011.
Meursault, Clos Du Cromin
This has a broad, open and flowery aroma. The palate is sleek and elegant. The succulent fruit
carries the palate seamlessly to a glossy finish. A very harmonious and well measured wine. Very
good. From 2011.
Meursault
12 plots from all around Meursault, from low parcels to high up.
Crystallized lemon fruit aroma. Exceedingly fruity on the attack. Fresh, sweet lime-like acidity cuts
through the ripe fruit and the amply rounded palate. It has an opulent middle and a peachy finish
of fair lengthy. Very good. From 2011
Another flight of 3 village wines among which Les Enseignières stood out.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Blanchot-Dessus
More clay it the soil, than the higher part which is 1er cru.
This is creamy on the attack then focuses. A silky wine with a chalky undertone. It has a note of
aniseed/fennel and is more savoury than fruity on the finish, which is a touch lacking. Good.
From late 2010
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Miex
Elegant, lifted perfumed aroma. Touch of honey on this silky palate. Floral and subtle with
honeysuckle and notes of new mown hay. It is rather elegant, decently intense for village wine,
but not very mineral. Good+. From late 2010
20

*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Enseignières
They use the fruit from 4 parcels.
This is more direct and intense on the aroma. It pounces on the palate. I like the vivacity, and
the chalkiness. Spiky, terse and zesty. It has a bright, saline and zesty finish with a touch of
savoury aniseed and almond. Very good. From 2010
The following two premier crus are Olivier Leflaive’s own vineyards. The Poruzots is by far the
more impressive.
Chassagne, Morgeots
This is from the lower part below the old Abbey on the left of the road on the way to Santenay,
Frank tells me, where there is a bit more clay. It is just next to La Chappelle of Jadot.
A creamy first impression on this rich bodied, broad wine. There is succulent, generous fruit. It
has an earthy note and crocheted texture and meanders to a savoury finish. Very good. From
2011
Meursault, Poruzots
The yields were low and they made just 7 or the more normal 10 barrels
Lifted with a touch of honey and white flower. It is rich and creamy, while being grippy and
tense. It has an assertive and terse character with intense and compact fruit. It is angular and
awkward, but has muscle and power and vigour on the finish. All over the place; gawky, but
potentially Fine. From 2011
The Poruzots and the Narvaux were hit by frost at flowering and had millerandage, so the yields
were very low and the fruit was then concentrated by the wind. The Poruzots is like the Narvaux,
but from a warmer spot and more concentrated and dense.
Now a flight of 3 Puligny premier cru. They were all delicious.
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Referts
Touch of exotic fruit on the nose. This is tight and dense on the attack. More compact than one
might expect. It is stony and tight, elegant and intense. There is a fresh, lime-like acidity. It has
some sweet accessible fruit and some stony, more reserved minerality and finishes on the chalky
more mineral note. It is vivacious. Particularly good to fine. From 2012.
*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Folatières
3 parcels of this.
Compact, masculine, wild flower and herbal garrigue notes. It is tight, compact, dense and
reserved. I like its mouth puckering stony character. It has grip and vigour. The finish is
persistent, a woven with oyster shell minerality and lime-like acidity. It is long and powerful.
Fine+. From 2011/12
Puligny-Montrachet, Champs-Gain
Floral and ethereal. Light and elegant and silky. It floats gracefully across the palate, with a
certain delicacy and finishes on a pure, stretched high-wired mineral note. Delicious. Fine to
Fine+. From 2011
Batard-Montrachet
A blend from 4 suppliers. Two each from the Puligny and Chassagne side.
A reserved and slightly crystallized character. The wine is compact, tense and vibrant with
smooth, firm, cool minerality. There is grip and battened down reserve, yet plenty of deep fruit.
It is quiet on the finish with a fine, chalky finish. Fine++.
21

Corton-Charlemagne
A stony, glassy, restrained aroma. More savoury than fruity. There is white pear fruit at the
beginning of the palate, and polished stone on the middle palate. It starts sleek and seductive
and broadens out into a richer rounder mid palate, before focusing to a tight, long decisive finish.
It is not a blockbuster. It is quite elegant. Fine++
Stockists
UK: Corney & Barrow; Haynes, Hanson & Clark; Lay & Wheeler; The Wine Society
USA: Frederick Wildman & Sons Ltd.
22

Maison de Montille, Soeur et Frère
The winemaker Cyrile Ravaux comments on the very high acidity in 2008 with a high proportion
of malic.
“We like to buy in grapes so we can do pressing, especially to avoid premature oxidation.” They
vinify the grapes separately from all the growers within each appellation and then taste them in
the spring. If the wine is not good enough, they do not add it to the blend, but sell it on to
negociants which are not quite so discerning.
“It was very difficult to extract the juice in 2008. We did not want to press the grapes too hard as
the skins were not too ripe, so at the end of the press programme we let the juice sit without
SO2.” This settles out the unwanted phenolics and make the wine more indestructible; less
sensitive to oxygen.
The négoce has been up and running for four years now and in each, Cyrile has been carefully
observing the pressing. He stays and watches the first few presses and observes how the juice is
extracted. In 2008 they had to press at the end, but in the other years they were able to press
very gently and get all the juice evenly and relatively easily. He judges carefully and consults with
Jean-Marc Roulot on this point. He remarks that the pressing is not something a lot of
winemakers here take enough care over. In the past he has worked with a Vaslin press which he
says was much more difficult. “You have to drive it; stop and start it. However it is a good
education and has trained him for working using the pneumatic, to be able to judge and then set
a programme appropriate to the grapes.
They have just 10% new oak each year.
“We can compare 2008 with 2007 as we had almost the same weather, but the wines are
different. They have similar quantities of acidity, but the acidity after the MLF in 2007 is not as
high. But they are both real Burgundy vintages, unlike the very ripe 2006 and 2005. These are
the vintages we like, except it is hard work in the vineyard! It will age well in the cellar.”
Bourgogne
This is racked. This is from Fixin and Mâcon. Last year it was from Mâcon alone. “It was more
difficult to source this wine in 2008, so our suppliers are different from the 2007 suppliers.”
Very fresh, melon and citrus. An ample Bourgogne with juicy acidity and lively on the finish.
Attractive. From 2010
*Rully
This is glossy with touch of apricot on the aroma. Juicy attack, plump and rounded middle palate.
Very accessible and pleasing with delicious ripe and forward fruit. Lovely fresh acidity. Good fruitdriven
finish. Very attractive and appealing. From 2010
Montagny, Les Coères
MLF finished end of May.
Lemon fruit palate with quite hard acidity. The palate is still rather angular although it has
finished MLF. I don’t think this is showing as well as it might. It will have to change quickly as it
is due to be bottled before harvest, as are the previous wines.
23

*Saint-Romain
Two growers, Sous Roche and Le Jarron. They purchase from both growers in grapes. Every year
they fight with one of the growers who wants to pick with machine and too early and it is a
battle to make him delay and to let them use their own pickers. (They do not pick very much
themselves, but this is one they do).
Bright aroma, touch of spice and nicely lifted. Quite a racy top note to this energetic palate. It is
streamlined and has a very good balance of fruit and fresh acidity. The finish is very attractive
and zesty. A lovely village Saint-Romain. Very good indeed. From 2011
Pouilly-Fuisse
They used 5 growers in 2008
Perfumed and slightly floral. This has a juicy front to the palate. It tightens in to become sharper
and more focused. It has taut, chalky minerality at the edges and on the long finish, where it is
slightly dry at the moment, but the fruit in the middle palate bodes well. Good+. From 2011
Saint-Aubin, Sur Gamay
It was picked around the 26 th September. There are two growers.
Quite generously ripe and rich fruit. Nicely rounded middle palate and a decent fruity finish. Very
attractive to good. From 2011
Pernand-Vergelesses
One grower here and it is bought as grapes. This is in a 2007 barrel, but the wood is very overt
and dominates. So, we than tried another barrel. They use no new wood on this wine.
This is much more restrained aromatically. Straight profile, simple fruit on the palate and decent
energy. Perhaps a tad short. Very attractive. From 2011
*Pernand-Vergelesses Sur Frètille
This is in a 2006 barrel. They bought these premier cru grapes from four growers and will sell off
the wine which was made from one of them, as it is not up to snuff.
This is much better on the aroma, more intense and pure. Silky on the attack, supple and juicy
with fresh acidity. It is tight and compact in the middle. It has some interesting savoury and
stony notes layered into the palate .Good density and attractively rather austere on the finish. I
like it. Particularly Good. From 2011/12
*Puligny-Montrachet, Champs-Gain
The palate seems quite oaky, but it isn’t. (This is in 2002 and 2007 barrels.) However the sweet
direct fruit comes singing through. Ripe and juicy which nicely plumps the middle palate. Very
fresh. Lovely balance. Best of all is the deliciously pure, ringing, persistent and lively finish.
Probably Fine. From 2011/12
24

Stockists
UK: Berry Brothers & Rudd Ltd; The Wine Society; Loeb
USA: Beaune Imports; Martin Scott wines; Veritas Wine.
25

Maison Morey-Blanc, Meursault
The MLF is almost always first for the Morey-Blanc wines and slower for the Domaine Morey.
Some of these négoce wines have almost finished malolactic. “There was less TA in 2008, but
good acidity,” comments Anne Morey. “The 2008 is perhaps less difficult to taste at this early
stage than the 2007. Possibly because there is less malic acidity. The only similarity is the high
acidity. The taste and the balance are different. In 2007 it was 2 to 1 malic to tartaric. In 2008,
although the malic was high it was not as high; for example 6 g/l of malic and 4.5 g/l tartaric.
“Compare this with 2005 and 2006 in which there was more tartaric than malic.”
They started harvesting on 25 th September for the domaine wine but on the negoce the growers
started on the 27 th .
The samples for all of the following wines are taken from two or three barrels. Anne has chosen
the most advanced in MLF. The new barrels go through first, but Anne has tried hard to have
some new and some older barrels.
“All the grapes ripened at about the same time. (St Aubin is always a little late.) All the vineyards
were at the same stage two weeks before harvest. (So the harvest was foreshortened). “The
humidity of July and August stopped at this moment. It was spectacular. We did not know what
we would harvest during the season. We had hail on the 26 th July in the middle of the afternoon
for 20 minutes. There was a little rain, but not enough to stop the bad effect of the hail. There
was no wind so the hail came straight down. Some straight down the chimney. It affected all the
vines on this side of village (North) to Volnay.
The Bourgogne Blanc and Aligoté were hit. The Meursault rouge and Volnay Santentos were very
damaged. Between 80 and 90% was lost. But in the south and on the slope Tessons, Perrières,
Les Pellands it was better. It knocked off the grapes. Luckily the wood was not hurt and the
following winter we could work normally. This is a very important point, as usually when there is
a violent hail storm you can have problems for two years afterwards.”
“Tessons is always late. It has cold soil, 20-40 cm of earth and just under it is the rock. The
mother rock is very cold, so although it has good exposure it is very cold. The other late ripening
vineyard is always Les Forges. It has very lsmall gravel-like stones. Together with the exposure
and wind they account for the lateness of the harvest every year. The only parcel on the Volnay
side which we can pick earlier is Santentots, where the soil keeps the warmth, so it ripens
earlier.” Anne has been into the vineyards and tasted the earth, “not very good!” and took
pictures. For two of her appellations she felt the taste of the soil and the wine corresponded. “In
Les Pellands the soil was sweet and round and warm. The other was Les Forges with it lots of
little stones, which look a little like Les Perrières. You can taste the stone in the mouth, as you
can in the wine.”
A pristine flight of wines.
*Saint-Romain
This is at the end of the MLF
This is floral, zesty, lemon and racy. High note. Bright and lively with some mineral on the finish.
I like it. Top notch village Saint-Romain. Good+. From 2010
26

Saint-Aubin, Premier Cru
This has finished the MLF. There is Sur le Sentier du Clos and Sur Gammay. The proportion may
change, but for some years just the fruit from these two vineyards in the cuvee. This was
harvested on the 27 th harvest
Bright and estery aroma. Very grapefruity. Upright and zesty with good energy across the palate
and some tension. It is very bright and has fresh lemony acidity. Very good+. From 2011
*Saint-Aubin, Les Combes
Picked on the 27 th and 28 th
There is a riper aroma with bright notes. Lovely fruit, just ripened apricot flavour. Pure and
slightly voluptuous, rounded in the middle palate, balanced by fresh acidity. It has a vivacious
finish. Very Good to Particualrly good. From 2011
*Auxey-Duresses
MLF nearly finished. This was harvested on 29 th . There are 2 parcels on the border of Meursault.
Attractive peach fruit. Ripe on the attack; rounded and slightly plump. Delicious fruit and sweet
lemon acidity. Less rounded than the St Aubin and has slight minerality. Very attractive in its
harmony and balance. Excellent Auxey-Duresses.
Meursault
Picked on the 4 th October. “An old parcel in a situation which is very late every year. It is next to
Clos du Cromin, in the top corner of Les Corbin, which is a little hollow and well protected. So,
the maturity is always very late.” This is in new oak as the MLF has finished in this barrel. Lactic
aroma and on the palate. Structure: good breadth and palate coverage. Sweet acidity. slightly
curvaceous. Firm fruit. While it is very disjointed at the moment, it has a lovely, mineral and
bright finish. Good+. From 2011
*Meursault, Les Narvaux
This is compact, dense and orangey. The fruit is both juicy, and rich and full. The acidity is very
tight. (Not started MLF yet.) a certain dark stone minerality. This has a firm, grippy, compact
long finish with flecked quartzy minerality. Top notch. Particularly good. From 2011/12
Meursault, Les Bouchères
Finished MLF.
This has a chalky fret-work, bright minerality; tight, but quite hard. There is new oak here. This
wine needs racking. It finishes very well and with verve. Potentially Particularly good++.
Meursault, Charmes
This has not begun the MLF. Very estery. The fruit is ripe. There is also some residual sugar her
Engaging, ripe lemony fruit. I’ll have to taste this again.
*Meursault, Les Genevrières
This blend has about 50% MLF. Quite lactic, but good. The palate is bright, very zesty, but also
quite floral. The energy is excellent and the finish is very persistent. This wine has very good
vibration with depth to the finish. This is not a heavy exotic Genevrières, but a lighter spicier one.
Potentially fine to very fine. From 2012.
*Corton-Charlemagne
There are 2 growers on Aloxe Corton side and one on the Pernand Vergeleses side. This
combination was begun in 2004. It has finished its MLF. Two barrels finished 2 months ago, so
this is further on and more stable - more like the finished product.
27

It has grip, is floral, yet stony with lovely purity. The line is long, linear and tight. Very good
precision and depth. Firm smooth stone minerality carries to a penetrating finish. Potentially very
fine. From 2014
Red wine
It is a bit early to taste the reds which have just been moved.
Aloxe Corton, Clos du Chapitre
Pretty fruit with touch of violet. Red cherry on the palate with light tannins, bright acidity and
good energy.
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Justerini and Brooks; Tanners; Lay and Wheeler; Harrods; House of Townsend; Adnams;
Goedhuis; A Byrne
Wilson Daniels
28

Domaine de Montille, Volnay
Beaune, Les Aigrots
Lifted, pure and citrus with some oak notes. Ripe fruit, quite full and rich and rounded with juicy
acidity. There is some grip, good density and a dark, smooth mineral, polished granite finish.
Particularly good. From 2012
*Meursault, Narvaux
Last year, as they had just bought the Narvaux, they did nothing in the vineyard, but this year
everything was by hand.
This has a somewhat broad palate woven with silky minerality. Nicely curvaceous, but
complimented with sweet acidity. It has a harmony and balance. The finish is long, lively and
juicy with an edge of spice and mandarin. Delicious. Very good to particularly good. From 2011
Corton-Charlemagne
The parcel is Pouget, which they grafted over three years ago.
Very retrained and contained at first. It slides quietly onto the palate. Quite savoury and silky
with a taut and chalky core. There is plenty of delicious, crisp pear fruit. It has rippling energy
and verve and long, fine persistence. An elegant Corton-Charlemagne. Fine. From 2012.
Stockists
UK: Berry Brothers & Rudd Ltd; The Wine Society; Loeb
USA: Beaune Imports; Martin Scott wines; Veritas Wine.
29

Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils, Meursault
The harvest dates: 23 rd September to the 30 th The MLF was quick because the cellar was warm. I
don’t think all the 2008s were showing as well as they could. Rather less energetic than they
should be, perhaps going through a slightly fatigued stage. I will try these again next year. We
also tried some older vintages.
Meursault
Parcel in Les Crotots and in Sous La Velle. The vines were planted in 1975. This may be bottled
in August, but perhaps after the harvest.
Silky fruity, slightly spicy and rounded. It’s quite rich and nicely plump in the middle. From 2010
Meursault 1994
Nutty aroma. The palate is honeyed, orange, spicy with an edge of marzipan. It has a toasty note
on the finish. While not the most lively wine, it has lovely flavours. Score 14
Meursault, Blagny
The parcel has been partially replanted so it has older 32 year old plants with some 10 year old
plants, which replaced the pinot. It is in La Pièce Sous la Bois.
This is a little flat on the aroma. On the palate it is savoury and mineral. There is breadth to the
palate. It tastes ripe and slightly spicy with well integrated acidity. Quite a nutty finish. Good.
From 2011
*Meursault, Blagny, 1995
Note of exotic florality. It is still remarkably light in hue. There is elegance and vitality. Lovely
fruit. It runs rather energetically across the palate, remarkably zesty, bright and mineral still. It
has slight tension and a pure as well as lively and mineral finish. Score 15.5. Drinking really well
at the moment.
Meursault, Les Charmes
A parcel in the centre and to the bottom of Charmes Dessus slightly over to the Genevrières side.
Flat, orange and spice on the aroma. The palate has somewhat oxidative notes too. It has
breadth and is soft and floral. A touch of minerality and moderate length. From 2011/12
Meursault, Les Charmes 1993
Quite honeyed on the aroma with rich hay notes. The palate is quite gently rounded with some
orangey character. It is quite juicy still with sufficient acidity and an edge of slightly sweet
minerality, but is flagging. It has an appealing finish with a touch of honey. It needs to be drunk.
Meursault, Les Perrières
Nutty, lemon flecked with notes of aniseed. This is lemony, nicely direct with light intensity. I
think the wines just are tired at the moment. The finish is lightly lemon and really quite long.
From 2011/12
*Meursault, Les Perrières 1990
Intense, rich nutty bouquet. Surprisingly bold attack. This still has some vigour, as well as some
density and minerality. It has a balance of sweet, cool, dark mineral which carries the palate and
complements the richness. The finish is mineral and very long. A serious wine holding its own.
Score 18. Drinking well now.
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes
30

The vines are just seven years old in this replanted plot. It is up the top (close by the trees and
the picnic spot). It has only about 25cm top soil, so not much for the vines.
This has a much more energetic aroma than the previous 2008s with notes of buttermint and
aniseed. The palate is sweet, with a touch of honey, juicy and much tighter and more vigorous.
The minerality is zesty and carries to the finish. Particularly good. From 2011/12
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes 1992
Quite a lot darker colour. Savoury and polished stone notes. It still has a note of
freshness, which is lifted by its slightly chalky finish. Drink now.
31

Domaine Michel Bouzereau, Meursault
Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau recalls the vintage: “The flowering was one month long. The harvest
started on the 25 th September and it lasted for 10 days. We finished with the Meursault Blagny
on the 4 th October.” July and August were not hot and Jean-Baptiste recalls the rain in August,
followed by the sun and the fresh wind from about the 10 th September. This stopped the
development of botrytis and so, he says, they did not have any. “The wind concentrated the
grapes and we harvested 25% down on 2007 yields at an average of 45 hl/ha.” They would
generally harvest 50-55hl/ha in a normal year. “With the concentration we have good acidity and
good sugar.” For example they harvested the Meursault at 13%; Tesson at 13.4%; Charmes at
13.7% and Genevrières at 13.8. At harvest the TA was, on average, 6 to 6.6 with a good
proportion of malic and the mean pH was 3.15.
Jean-Baptise did not want to show wines which were less than 60% through their malolactic,
which was a pity.
Bourgogne Aligoté
There is one hectare of 70 year old vines and another ½ hectare of younger vines. Just below
the Route 74. The fermentation is in 75% older barrels (5 years old) and the rest is in vat. The
MLF is about 60% through.
It is streamlined, lime-fresh and tight. A good, vibrant, pure and zesty palate with lovely acidity.
An appealing direct Aligoté with decent citrus fruit.
Bourgogne
2 parcels in Sous la Velle and Magny.1/2 hectare each. In Magny they had hail on 26 th July. This
is from a new barrel and it had finished MLF. In the final blend it will have 15% new oak. “I think
it is a good balance for the material,” says Jean-Baptiste.
The oak shows a lot on the aroma. The fruit is good, nicely ripe, slightly rounded and juicy and
quite dense and the acidity is well integrated. It’s pleasant. From 2010
Meursault, Les Grands Charrons
4 parcels, 3 in the top section just under Tessons where it is more calcareous and one at the
bottom where the soil is deeper, giving the depth and richness of this wine.
I tasted a sample blend from 3 barrels, one new oak and two at 1 year old. The oak on this
sample may dominate on the nose, but riper apricot aromas come though. Succulent attack,
rounded, dense and juicy in the middle palate. Good acidity cuts thought the rich fruit. Well
structured village wine. Quite assertive finish. Very good. From late 2010
Meursault, Le Limozin
No 2008 was shown.
Meursault, Le Limozin 2007
Slight note of hazelnut. Straight and firm on the attack with some gloss. Quite well focused,
bright acidity, oyster-shell minerality and pure on the finish. It is restrained and contained, more
so than one might have expected. Score 16. From 2010
Meursault, Les Tessons
50 year old vines. Finished MLF. This sample was from new oak. This will have 25% on the
blend.
The intense citrus aroma comes through the overt new oak. On the attack the wine is vibrant and
citrus. The wood perhaps shows more the palate than on the nose, but the density and purity of
33

the fruit comes though and the freshness of the acidity. It has a sleek energy and good direction
with smooth edges. Long, deep finish. Possibly Particularly Good. From later 2011
Meursault, Blagny
Sadly not shown
*Meursault, Blagny 2007
This is not showing much on the aroma. Tight, focused and tautly battened down on the palate.
Attractively edgy and direct palate. High toned and saline finish. Score 17.5-18
*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Champs Gains
“The parcel is next to La Truffière and the trees give it a special microclimate,” says Jean-
Baptiste, “So it is well ripened, but has good acidity.”
The MLf is 60% through. This is one barrel of 2 years old oak and one from new oak. The final
blend will have 25%.
Very seductive and spicy with notes of mandarin. Silky attack, sweet and lithe. It glides onto the
palate. Lovely sleek, linear palate. Well defined and pure with lithe energy to a bright finish. It
combines slightly exotic characters with lithe and well edged minerality. Particularly good to Fine.
From 2011/12
Meursault, Les Genevrières
Sadly not shown
Meursault, Les Genevrières 2007
There is a slightly floral, exotic aroma, while being light and a touch delicate. Looseish, but
expressive on the entry to the palate. Not big as such, but definitely scented. Good acidity, which
enlivens the palate. The wafting fruit is mandarin and lychee. It is a fruit drive wine. Score 17.5-
18. From 2011
Meursault, Les Charmes
Sadly not.
Meursault, Les Charmes, 2007
Silky aroma. It is slightly opulent on the attack. It ripples seductively across the palate. Firm
citrus acidity is woven into the fruit and comes through on the finish. It is very even, very
composed and persistent. Score 18-18.5. From 2011
*Meursault, Les Perrières
The MLF is finished and the percentage of new oak barrels as it will be i.e. 30-35% new oak.
Attractive floral aroma. The attack has a perfume before tightening to a channelled and focused
palate. Pure, vigorous and linear with good definition and taut edges. It has precision and tight
long persistence. Shimmering with minerality. Fine+. From 2012
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Caillerets.
Not shown
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Caillerets 2007
This is tight and reserved on the nose. Reticent on the attack and backward on the palate,
showing little fruit, but tight and chalky minerality. It has a very fine line. Cool minerality and
acidity are entwined on the persistent finish. Score 18.5. From 2012
34

Stockists
UK:
USA:
Berry Bros and Rudd; Charles Taylor Wines; Lay and Wheeler
Première Wine Merchants
35

Domaine Yves Boyer-Martenet, Meursault
“I have worked with fewer chemicals for 6 years now,” says Vincent. “Next year I will work only
with sulphur. It was a pretty bad summer until the beginning of September when the grapes
were beginning to rot. Then the wind came and it was dry and cold. I was supposed to pick on
the 22 nd . The forecast was rain, but not until October, so we held on until the 28 th . We lost yield
to the wind, but the quality increased.” Vincent estimates this loss as 2/3 of the production
because of the juice reduction.
All the vines are approx 50 years old.
“Because we had no hot weather the acidity was high. I was pretty worried about this , but after
the MLF it was fine. I did a bit more bâtonnage than usual as the acidity was pretty high and I
wanted to make it more rounded.”
Most wine here have finished MLF. It was normal. Vincent matures his wine for 11 months in ¼
new oak for the village wine 1/3 for the 1er cru. (I tasted from one year old barrels). He will
rack in July, blend the wine and wait two months before bottling. Bottling may be at the end of
August because of the early predicted date of the harvest. “I want to do longer ageing, but I
need room and cuves for this. I hope to expand the winery so I can rack in August and keep the
wine for 7 or 8 months in vat.”
A good consistent flight of wines with plenty of fruit and good Meursault typicité.
Vincent’s sister, Sylvie Boyer, has stopped her small négoce business. Their mother still helps,
mainly in the office, but she also lends a hand in the vineyard.
*Bourgogne
There are 3 parcels on the limit of Meursault. Some in Sous La Velle, some of which is in village
appellation, but Vincent says as they are not exactly sure where the divide is, all the grapes go
into the Bourgogne Blanc.
Creamy aroma. Ripe fruit with a touch of pineapple. Glossy attack to a rounded middle palate; It
has good acidity. A fresh palate with plenty of lemon fruit intertwined with slight hint of
minerality on the finish. Very good Bourgogne Blanc. From 2010
Meursault, Le Pré de Manche
These vines on Le Cromin side of the valley, (It is a 45 year old vineyard, but with some 87 year
old vines.) Vincent has sold this in must to a négoce, “as the wine has no ‘name’ and the
exposure is not as good and is at a lower level.”
Meursault, En L’Ormeau
The soil in this vineyard is deeper and has no rock. It is at the bottom of the village behind the
house. The vines are old - from 90 years.
Rich, rounded and creamy with an unctuous impression and a generous, full middle palate. The
finish is nutty and creamy and decently long. Good. From 2011
Puligny-Montrachet
65 year old parcels from Les Reuchaux on the flat lands. This is a bit reduced. The MLF finished a
month ago after which Vincent added sulphur.
36

Rich and nutty on the front of the palate. It has good weight, nice density and decent with a
touch of minerality on the finish. Good. From 2011
Meursault
This is from Les Grands Charrons from 35 year old vines. 2007 was the first vintage Vincent put
under the domaine label. The parcel has been in the family for a long time, but was traditionally
sold to négoce by his parents. Vincent has decided to keep and bottle this and sell the Le Pré de
Manche. This was picked at the beginning of October.
Sunny aroma with some minerality. Firm attack. It is zesty, rounded, ripe and juicy and has
plenty of sweet acidity. A nutty, honeyed finish with a touch of crystallised fruit and a lively lift at
the end. This village wine has a good balance of fruit and acidity and plenty of Meursault
character. Good+. From 2011
Meursault, Narvaux
They have 4 parcels which are between 45-55 years old.
This is a bit reduced, but compact on the nose. Taut, straight and well defined palate with some
firm mineral. Quite strict with an assertive mineral finish. Good to very good. From 2011
*Meursault, Tillets
This is reduced as well. More nervous on the palate. Lovely bright energy and it dances across
the palate. High notes of lime and bright zesty, vibration on the finish. Excellent tight, really
rather persistent and very zingy finish. Lovely acidity. Delightful Tillets. Very good indeed. From
2011
Meursault, Chaumes
This belongs to the Commune. Vincent must return it after 25 years. It’s a very rocky place which
he planted 11 years ago.
This has a spicy Muscat aroma which Vincent says comes from the clones and disappears after a
year or so in bottle. There is a distinct herbal, spicy and floral aroma, mirrored on the first
impression of the palate. It has a linear, pure and narrow palate. Plenty of fruit and nervous
minerality on the finish. Good to very good. From 2011
Meursault, Charmes
Three parcels. The largest part is in Dessus and two parcels in Dessous. The yield was 1/3 less
this year. About 40hl/ha, maybe a bit less.
This is sleek and glossy; quite dense, ripe and rich with juicy acidity. The wood tastes more overt
than one year old. There is a little tension on the finish. The finish is moderately persistent.
Particularly good to fine. From 2012
Meursault, Genevrières
Only 3 barrels, normally 4 (4.5), but reduced because of the cold north wind.
Spicy and broad attack to an expansive, crystallised fruit palate. Very concentrated, and compact
and battened down. Piercing acidity combats the rich fruit. A powerful and focused palate. Fine+
From 2012
*Meursault, Perrières
This is the highest parcel in the vineyard.
It is more elegant with streamlined energy and linear profile. Lovely long quivering palate.
Beautifully woven fruit and minerality which really emerges on the finish. It is discreet and
refined and has an excellent harmony and a silky mineral persistence. Fine to very fine. From
2012
37

Puligny-Montrachet, Caillerets
The Domaine bought this parcel in 1996.
This is reserved on the aroma. Like everything here a bit reduced. Tight palate, toned and
focused on smooth minerality which is intense on the finish. Enrobed in seductive spicy fruit it
glides to a fine long finish. Fine+ From 2012
Stockists
UK: Charles Taylor; Decorum Vintners
USA: North Berkeley Imports (California); Michael Skurnik (New York).
38

Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet, Meursault
Nicolas Gachon is the winemaker. He has been with Jean-Philippe for 2 years. Surprisingly
everything had finished MLF, but a few have a little sugar left. The cellar was warm here. I think
it was warmed to 20 degrees so the MLF was all finished by March. No wine has been racked.
They started the harvest on 25 th September and finished 3 rd October. Nicolas says they had more
tartaric and less malic. The pHs range from 3.18 to 3.30
A ripe flight of wine.
Bourgogne Aligoté
Rich, ripe citrus aroma and flavours. Juicy, fruity and vibrant. An attractive fruity Aligoté with a
fresh finish. Very pleasant. Ready soon after bottling.
Hautes Côtes de Beaune
Ripe peach aroma. Soft and unctuous attack with a rounded and full middle palate. Sweet acidity
and a generous fruity-driven finish. A very pleasant wine. From 2010
*Bourgogne Blanc
Three parcels in Meursault. Some are young vines. Les Pellans, Les Millerandes and Clous
Perrons.
Expressive citrus aroma. Sweet acidity, brighter and lighter and more elegant with delicious fruit.
Very good balance. It is a very good and elegant Bourgogne Blanc. From 2010
*Bourgogne Blanc, Veilles Vignes
They lost a lot to hail. Ended up with 30hl/ha. The grapes were very small.
Concentrated aroma with slight spice. Rich on the attack. Delicious sweet citrus fruit; rather
concentrated for a Bourgogne Blanc. Lovely balance of deep and pure fruit and zesty acidity.
Seriously over performs. From 2010
Auxey-Duresses
Lifted, expressive flowery and exotic aroma. Ripe lychee fruit on the attack; ripe and perfumed
palate with well woven acidity. A forward and overt Auxey-Duresses. Very appealing and crowd
pleasing. The acidity on the finish keeps it fresh. Good+. From 2010/11
Monthelie
A négoce wine. They buy the must, but supervise the pressing.
Ripe lemony aroma. Rich and full on the attack. Juicy, ample and curvy middle palate. slightly
honeyed. Quite simple. Sweet, with a touch of orange fruit on the finish. Attractive. From 2010
Meursault
!5 year old vines from Les Chaume des Narvaux. This blend also has Les Crotots and Limozin
where the vines are older.
Quite an unctuous aroma. Sweet attack with notes of crystallised lemon fruit. Opulent, rich and
slightly spicy with juicy acidity. It is an appealing rounded, but nicely balanced style, with good
concentration and freshness on the finish. Good++. From 2011.
39

Meursault, Meix Sous Le Château
Small microclimate with less wind and more sun. the vines range from 12 years old to more than
50.
Concentrated, slightly honeyed and exotic aroma. Unctuous fruit attack to an ample generously
fruity palate. It is rounded, rich and full. An open and quite overt middle palate, where lovely
sweet deep acidity cuts though. Very golden and appealing with a full, fruit driven finish. Good to
very good. From 2010/11
Meursault, Gruyaches
Fichet is the sole vigneron who makes this separately and labels it as such. The rest of the
production of this vineyard disappears into négoce wine. The vines are 71 years old.
An exotic aroma, intense and expressive. This has good vitality. It attacks the palate. Intense
fruit. Firm acidity slices through the exotic, thick fruit. Plenty of viscosity and a fulsome, exotic
finish. Very good+ From 2010/11
*Meursault, Les Chevalières
Lively aromas, lifted and citrus albeit ripe. It is rather elegant and has good definition with more
crisply edged ripe fruit. Lighter touch and more energetic with quite taut acidity. The balance is
fresher and the minerality is firm and bright to the finish. Very good. From 2010/11
*Meursault, Tessons
This is much more like it. Lifted bright, citrus and slightly saline. There is ripe fruit, but is ripe
with some luminosity. Streamlined, pure, tight and racy. It has a good firm core of smooth stone.
Very nicely woven fruit and acidity on the finish. This is reasonably restrained. Silky and energetic
and very long for a village wine. Particularly good. From 2011
*Meursault, Genevrières
In the 2007, which was the first year for this appellation, Fichet had 2 pièces, but this year they
have 5. It comes from just one grower who works here with Fichet and the fruit is bought in
grapes.
Quite perfumed. The palate is quite floral, but however is rather tight. Good acidity, balance and
tension. It has a fresh and uplifted long finish, which is bright and tight at the end. A good
combination of exotic fruit with a more disciplined structure. Fine+. From 2011/12
Puligny-Montrachet, Referets
Rich, ripe and expansive aroma. Satin rich attack to a generous, broad middle palate. Full and
generous on the finish. Very well balanced with sweet, deep acidity. A rich Referets. Particularly
good to fine. From 2011/12
Stockists
UK: Genesis Wines Ltd; Goedhuis & Co.; Fields, Morris and Verdin/Berry Brothers; TheVine Trail
Ltd
USA: The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma
40

Domaine Henri Germain, Meursault
All of the wines were going through the MLF. Lots of malic acidity here and plenty of gas. All
tasted from one or two year old oak. What comes though through is the modern, sleek and
stylish character to Jean-François’ wine.
Bourgogne
The parcel is in the small walled garden beside the cellar. It is tight, bright and fresh. Very limefresh,
tight and bright. Potentially very attractive. From 2010.
Meursault
This is also bright and streamlined aroma. The fruit is vibrant and lemony. There is slight
minerality. Straight and well contained with smoothed edges. A sleek and modern wine. Good to
very good. From 2010
*Meursault, Chevalières
This has a crystallised sheen to the aroma. It is focused, silky and has good energy. It twirls
across the palate. Excellent balance of acidity and fruit. Vivacious to the finish. Very good. From
2011
Meursault, Limozin
Touch of honey, slightly more unctuous aroma. It has an extra level of ripeness (and the oak is
more overt). There is sweet intensity to the palate and slight grip with perhaps more depth to the
finish than the Chevalières which, none-the-less, I prefer. Very good. From 2011
Meursault, Charmes
Germain’s parcel crosses over dessous and dessus, mostly in the higher part, reaching almost to
the top of the climat. The youngest of the vines are 35 years old. There is 20-25% new oak.
From a 2 year old barrel. There is a sweet lemony aroma, slightly reserved. It is silky, seductive,
rippling. This still has a lot of appley malic acidity and gas. However there is a polished, rolled
minerality which comes though on the finish which is long and svelte. Stylish. Fine indeed. From
2012
*Meursault, Perrières
This is a parcel at the edge of Dessous. 35 year old vines.
This has focus and bright, tight minerality on the nose. Linear, well defined and racy palate. High
wired vivacity. Pure minerality and vibrant acidity. Lovely persistent finish. Fine+. From 2012
Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeots
Les Fairendes. These are 10 years old vines.
Darker aroma. Broad attack and good width to the palate. Grippy and quite compact. It is stony
and tense. The acidity and fruit balance is good. Well executed. Nuding into fine. From 2011/12
Stockists
UK: Domaine Direct; Lea & Sandeman; Adnams; Tanners Wines
USA: Petit Pois Corp.; Sussex Wine Merchants.
41

Domaine Patrick Javillier, Meursault
“We have a lot of similarities with 2007,” says Patrick. The weather was bad and we had a good
chance with the last 10 days with the wind from the north and some sun. This was a good
chance especially for Chardonnay. There was good acidity and good maturity for Chardonnay;
less so for Pinot Noir. So we have a classic Burgundy style for white. Some grapes have a small
quantity of pourriture, but if we took them away, it was the same as in 2007. I think the 2008
will have a higher TA than in 2007, but the MLFs have only just finished. The sugar ranged from
12-12.5%.”
“The weather changed around 10 days before harvest. I began on the 25 th and finished after 10
days. Like 2007 it was better to wait for the harvest, but we must be careful not to have too
many days after the flowering. In 2008 we harvested from 105 and 110 days after the flowering.
If it is too late you can get the nose of the sur-maturité. So it’s good to wait, but not for too
long.”
“For 2007 each wine is very definite, but in 2008 it is too early to know before the MLF.”
This tasting starts with two very good Bourgogne Blanc.
Bourgogne, Cuvée Les Forgets
“Normally 15% new wood, but this year I think it can take a little more, so 20%”
Good intensity on the nose. The attack is assertive and zesty. It has very decent ripeness and is
nicely rounded fruit with good intensity on the palate for Bourgogne, and lovely fresh acidity.
Bright finish. Very attractive. From 2010
*Bourgogne, Cuvée Les Forgets, 2007
Firm nutty, creamy aroma. Lovely minerality and a tight, slightly tense straight palate. Well
edged and has good energy. Score 14. From late 2009
*Bourgogne, Cuvée Oligocène
This has a touch of honey and is smooth, nicely ripe with slightly apricot fruit on the aroma.
Seductive, rounded and ripe attack. Broader, but also denser than Les Forgets. Excellent volume
in the middle palate for a Bourgogne. There is a slight aniseed, fennel note in the middle palate
and then sweet note on the finish. Nicely balanced acidity. This will take longer to come round
than Les Forgets. Very attractive indeed. From 2011
*Bourgogne, Cuvée Oligocène 2007
Slightly more golden. Nicely edged on the attack. Tight and racy and well defined. Good long and
gravelly finish. Excellent presence for Bourgogne Blanc. Score 14. From 2011
Savigny-lès-Beaune
Just racked.
Citrus and quite high toned. There is a firm zesty, lemony note on the palate well. Quite light, but
bright, lifted and elegant. Good. From 2011.
Savigny-lès-Beaune, 2007
Silky-smooth and limpid with glassy minerality. Tight and energetic. Deliciously mineral finish.
Good vibration. Score 16. From 2010
42

*Meursault, Tillets
Quite a lot of oak apparent at the moment on the nose (yet Patrick never uses more than 15%
on Tillets.) Sparkles on the attack. Tight and focused and racy. Excellent energy. Bright and
tense. Good sherbet acidity and chalky minerality on the finish. It’s tight and needs time.
Particularly Good. From 2011.
*Meursault, Tillets, 2007
Nervous and tense. Bright, channelled with fresh, high toned fruit and a tight long line. Top notch
lieut-dit. Score 17.5 From late 2010/11
Meursault, Clos Du Cromin
This was harvested three days after Tillets. “Cromin can be drunk young,” remarked Patrick, “for
example my 2007 is selling now in restaurants. I want to make the harvest of Tillet first, to
emphasize the difference in these two wines.” This is a very old vineyard with 70 year old vines.
There is a golden crystallised aroma. Succulent, rounded and warm attack to an appealingly
rounded body with good concentration. The acidity is fresh and juicy. The finish has some dark
and slightly savoury minerality and it is wafts gently to the end. Very good+. From l2010
Meursault, Clos Du Cromin, 2007
There is a generous, crystallised aroma. Very expressive, zesty and honeyed. Tight, quite dense
and somewhat broader in the middle palate. It has excellent energy and chalky minerality on the
finish. Score 16.5. From late 2010
Meursault, Les Clousots
Ripe lemony aroma. Generous on the attack. Dense and juicy-ripe citrus palate. This ripples like
thick satin across the palate to a ripe, but fresh, lemon finish. Lovely acidity woven into the fruit.
Particularly Good. From 2011.
Meursault, Les Clousots 2007
Quite soft on the attack and on the middle palate. Rounded, silky and lightly seductive. It has a
very light sheen. It is not as impressive on the finish. Score 16.5-17
Puligny-Montrachet
This was during the MLF and so Patrick preferred not to show it.
Puligny-Montrachet 2007
Some nutty characters and darker mineral on the aroma. Focused pounce on the palate. Good
straight, tight and channelled and pure. Tense and good length for village. Lovely minerality on
the finish. This is a very nice wine showing good typicité. Score 15.5
Meursault, Charmes
This has a seductive and slightly spicy aroma. Quite broad and expressive on the attack. There is
a light sheen to the palate. It is juicy and has soft, smooth minerality. It tightens to reveal a
fresh and white minerality on the finish, which is persistent and fine. A light, elegant, fresh and
refined Charmes. Fine. From 2012
*Meursault, Tête De Murgers
This is spicy and rich. Juicy and full on the front of the palate. It is good, dense and compact. It
has a layered palate with some darker minerality. Quite reserved and slightly muscular. The finish
is well edged, slightly stony and has good length. Particularly good+. From 2012
43

*Meursault, Tête De Murgers 2007
This is intense. Surprisingly creamy on the front of the palate, before it battens down to a
denser, tighter palate. It is lively, yet focused and has firm saline minerality on the finish. Score
17.5 From 2012
Corton-Charlemagne
This has a reserved and stony aroma. It carries the oak well. The palate is tight on the attack. It
is coiled and powerful with tightly wound vigour and density. It combines fresh lemon fruit with
cool, chalky, savoury minerality to a very persistent finish. Fine+. From 2014/15
Corton-Charlemagne, 2007
This is tight and mineral and bright and vigorous. It shows the oak a little bit in the middle plate,
but this wine needs a long time. It is honed and tight. Lovely long finish, at present marked with
oak, but the power of the fruit and the stony, reserved minerality comes through at the end.
Score 18.5-19. From 2014/15
Stockists
UK: Berry Bros; Laytons; Justerini and Brooks; Corney and Barrow;OW Loeb, Lay & Wheeler
USA: Total Wines; More; Langdon Shiverick; Martin Scott Wines; North Berkeley Imports
44

Domaine Charles and Remi Jobard, Meursault
“A vintage with good strong minerality, but we do not know exactly as the MLF has not finished.
Very good maturity. We picked quite late on the 25 th September. But it is not so late. The 20 th
would be normal. We finished on the 3 rd October.
“The most important thing was the north wind, which started on the 10 th September, then
continued to October. The wind concentrated the good matter and the acidity. We lost a lot of
the malic acidity in 2008. This wind continued throughout the vintage.”
“We had hail just in the Bourgogne. It had an effect on the quantity. The grapes dried so there
was no need for selection. However the hail retarded development. We harvested them after the
Meursault as we had to wait for the maturity.”
“It is perhaps like 2001. The 2001 had the wind and with it we got the concentration at this
Domaine.”
I could ‘star’ most of these. Good precision.
Bourgogne
6 parcels normally but for the 2008 Remi bought some more vines in the Grandes Coutures.
Very bright and lifted aroma. Zesty attack. Vibrant, pure and direct. Zinging bright with overt,
ripe, citrus fruit. This has not started MLF yet, so it will soften and become rounder. Good fruity
finish. Potentially very attractive Bourgogne.
*Meursault, Sous La Velle
Rich, deep aroma. Expressive with notes of ripe white peach. Broad, curvaceous palate, smooth,
juicy with lots of acidity, but this will soften. It shows very decent concentration of fragrant
peachy fruit and a sweeping palate. Firm fruity finish. Good+. From 2010/11
Meursault, En Luraule
Sample one from 1200 litre fudre which is from Austria. This is rather orangey and spicy on the
nose. Sweet attack with juicy and spicy mandarin fruit, full and gently rounded. It has lively fresh
acidity (not though MLF) and a bright energetic finish. Combines sweetness with energy. Very
good.
Sample two from barrique: Oak from Austria. One year old barrel. Unctuous. Rich with some
gloss. Ample middle palate. There is touch of honey and this is softer. It is partially though MLF.
Good on the finish.
Potentially Good to very good. From 2011
Meursault, Narvaux
This large parcel is new in 2008. The work of the grower was good, but Remi will do more. “It is
giving good grapes at the moment, but they are quite large.” Remi plans to decrease the
rendement.
A bit brooding on the aroma. Nicely compact, full, quite layered with ripe fruit and limey acidity.
This still has some malic. This has a more austere structure and stony, slight severe finish. Looks
promising. Very good+. From 2011
45

*Meursault, Les Chevalières
This was planted in 1940
Warm floral and lifted aroma with notes of honey. Sweet and expressive on the attack. Lovely
purity and glimmering minerality in the middle palate. It is very fresh as there is plenty of malic
acidity, but has the intensity of fruit to balance softened acidity. It has an engaging energy.
Slightly tense towards the end and there is a fine line above the expressive white peach fruit.
White floral notes on the finish. It’s a pure, but inviting. Very Good to particularly good. From
2011
*Meursault, Porusots
No MLF here yet
Dense, crystallised fruit with touch of the exotic. Unctuous attack, yet quickly battens down to a
denser, grippy profile. Coiled vigour. Layered wine with bright highlights and lower gravely notes.
Dark, juicy, concentrated and assertive on the finish. Nudging into fine. From 2012.
Meursault, Genvrières
Sample one from the fudres, which was new in 2007: Lots of gas. However it has an expressive
and typically exotic floral profile. Expansive palate. This is still during the MLF, some lactic notes
on the nose and lots of malic. However I like the tension, length and florality on the finish.
Potentially fine.
Sample two: From barriques. The barriques is from 2006 as Remi bought his new fudres in 2007
and therefore fewer new barrels. This is creamier and more settled on the aroma. Rounded
middle palate; full, expressive, spicy and open. This is more advanced and the MLF must have
just finished. Dense and juicy. There are slightly purple characters and spice to the long finish. It
has good typicité and intensity. Fine.
Meursault, Genvrières 2001
Remi considered that the 2001 might be a vintage with which to compare the 2008, so we tried
one. “The wind in 2001 also concentrated the wine.” In 2001 they harvested this on the 24 th
September.
Lovely toasted hazelnut aromas with an edge of high spice; cinnamon with honey and new hay.
Delicious. Rich on the attack to a rounded, dense palate with really fresh acidity. The fruit is
spiced with bright notes and a hint of marmalade. The finish is good and long, where sweet and
savoury characters combine. This shows some complexity and the acidity keeps the finish fresh.
Score 18. Lovely now.
*Meursault, Charmes
A very svelte aroma. It slips onto the palate; seductive, satin and rippling. Already harmonious
and sleek. Excellent typicité. There is a sophisticated sheen to the long and lingering finish.
Fine++. From 2012
Stockists
UK: Lea and Sandemen
USA: Peter Weygandt
46

Domaine François et Antoine Jobard, Meursault
François and his son Antoine Jobard began harvesting on the 26 th and finished on the 2 nd October
in Tillets.
“After the 2007 this vintage has less acidity. I think it has more richness. We picked at higher
degrees than in 2007. In 2007 the range was 12.3-12.8% potential and in 2008 13-13.5%,” says
Antoine. “It will be easier to taste young, than the 2007”
“The summer was ‘different’. It was difficult, less light, cold and the grapes did not ripen. They
were big with no sugar in them. In the last 15 days the wind dried and concentrated the grapes.
Without this they would have low sugar and acidity. We finished with less volume, but better
quality. On the 26th July we had hail in the Bourgogne and in la Barre, reducing the yield by
50%. The fruit dried and fell off. For the white we press one hour after the harvest so it is not
so important unlike the red. We had two people in the vines who select the grapes after picking,
actually in the vineyard.”
In 2007 we had a similar summer it that it was cool and wet and we had some wind, but just a
little. The 2007 was less concentrated by the wind.”
Antoine makes the vinification, but works with his father throughout the year. “I make the wine
now for my personality.” He has changed little things. “I do not want to change the style of the
domaine, but it has to change a little as I do not have quite the same methods as my father. The
main vinification is the same, but for example, I pick up the lees a little earlier - 2 hours earlier. I
want a little less lees. I don’t want the big lees, only the best lees. I need some lfor ageing.”
“I try to make the bottling two or three months before my father, so in June not in August,
because I think the summer isn’t good for the wine in the cellar in barrique. I like to take the
wine and put it in a tank. This way I keep it fresher than in the barrique.”
Antoine is making small, subtle changes in the winery, but nothng is done differently in the
vinyard. “My father never used chemicals. I like his style in viticulture.”
A very good flight of wine.
*Bourgogne
Expressive. It had not begun MLF so it was very appley. Straight, rich and very fresh and well
edged. It will be pure and energetic. Good weight of fruit. Potentially top notch. From 2011
*Meursault, Tillets
High and lemony, even though a little reduced. This has a weight and succulence on the palate.
There is good depth and intensity. Tight high acidity but the MLF has not started. This has
vigour, rather than the more typical nervousity. This is a big, rich and thick Tiilets. Atypical, but.
Very Good+. From late 2010/11
Meursault, En La Barre
They had just 35 hl/ha because of the hail. The MLF has begun. This has a lot of gas, but it is
clearly a rounder wine with golden notes. Quite rich, slightly honeyed, smooth and plump in the
centre. The acidity is malic at the finish, but will soften. The balance is good. Not too fat.
Pleasing and accessible. Good to good+. From late 2010/2011
47

Puligny-Montrachet, Le Trézin
Harvested after the Tillets, together with the Blagny. They are always the last 3 parcels to be
harvested.
This is very sprightly and highly acidic, for it has not started its MLF. Straight, vibrating, high tight
palate. It is 13 degrees, rich, but very tight, zesty and it finishes well. This is much more nervous
than the Tillets. Potentially Very Good. From 2010/11
*Meursault, Blagny
In the middle of Pièce Sous Le Bois.
This is rather reduced at the moment. But there is weight and richness here. Good density of
fruit. There is a lot of malic acidity and I doubt if this has started MLF. It has a density and
intensity on the finish Streamlined with good depth and intensity. Particularly good+. From 2011
*Meursault, Porusot
The palate shows density and compact character. Good volume here, but well contained. Gras,
weight and richness. The MLF has not begun, but the acidity is not markedly high. The finish is
ripe with touch of honey, slightly exotic floral notes and a touch of dark stone. Good finish.
Nudging fine. From 2012
Meursault, Genevrières
A bit reduced. Spice and slightly exotic notes. Wide on the attack. There is lychee fruit, white
peach, high spice and very firm acidity. This still has plenty of malic acidity. The fruit has a looser
structure than the very contained Porusot, but then it focuses in to be tighter and longer on the
finish. It is succulent, but not a florid Genevrières. A more floral one with some finesse. Fine to
fine+ From 2012
*Meursault, Charmes
This more of a sleek cat. There is weight and richness on the middle palate, depth and intensity.
Fine and juicy fruit. It has an opulent note, but is finely contained. It ripples in a rather
nonchalant manner across the palate. Unruffled and composed to a long, sleek, glossy finish.
Fine++ From 2012
Stockists
UK: Richards Walford. Anthony Sarjeant Fine Wines
USA: Kermit Lynch; Martine’s Wines
France: Les Caves Taillevent
48

Domaine Des Comtes Lafon, Meursault
Dominic Lafon gives his impression of the vintage; “July was poor. There was a cool grey August
and the harvest delayed. We couldn’t pick, so we waited. The forecast was really good, so we
could wait. We had sun as well as wind. After the dehydration we were surprised by the crop
level. We were generally down 30% and were expecting more juice. I was particularly unhappy
with the Mâcon, which has very little juice. We reached in general 13.5-14% alcohol. The TAs
were similar to the 2007s and some were higher. The pHs can be lower than the 2007s. We had
just as good grapes on the hill as at the bottom, although maybe a bit more crop in Charmes and
Clos de la Barre because they kept a little water into September.”
MLF was late. “We had a cold winter; so very cold cellars, low pHs and high TAs. We like it long
for the reds, but not for the whites. If it struggles the wine can go through oxidative phases if
you are not careful. The way we work with lots of lees we have more reduction so it is OK. Yes I
prefer it quick, and right now it is all over the place. It is normally finished by April. The
fermentation was also longer and slower than normal. It finished really well at the end though,
just a delay in the middle.”
Dominic was fortunate as the hail avoided the whites, but in the reds he had 12 hl/ha in the
Volnay Santenots.
*Meursault
En la Barre and Luraule tasted separately and then as a blend.
Luraule: This finished MLF before Christmas. Very citrus aroma and fruit-driven palate. Lovely
acidity; high and ringing fruit. It is tight, pure and lively. Some of the richer fruit shows on the
finish, but it trimmed with energetic acidity.
En la Barre: This has not started its MLF. Just one barrel of the 7 or 8 has started and this is a
blend of all. Long line, cloaked in rich, apricot fruit; very juicy. Full bodied with breadth and ripe
density. This has muscle.
The blend has a lovely top note, racy, lighter, bright and more airy. There is depth and richness
beneath with a firm, but fresh long finish. Top notch. From 2011
Meursault, Clos De La Barre
Just 37 barrels of this as opposed to the usual 55 barrels.
3 cuvees
10 year old vines: These barrels had just finished MLF. This has lots of fruit, depth and intensity
and some grip for young vines. Pretty impressive. Fresh acidity, but not too high and quite easily
balanced by the ripe fruit.
35 year old vines: 10-20% through MLF. Dense on the attack, richly golden, ripe apricot fruit.
Nicely rounded, full and concentrated. Straight, deep and tight acidity.
55 year old vines: This has finished. Bit yeasty. Silky gloss on the attack; then tight, more
austere with an edge of mineral. Excellent on the finish, really vigorous, tight and long.
The blend: This has golden gloss and lemon high notes, expressive and intense. Energetic on the
attack, bright and zesty, but with depth and intensity and a vigorous long, keen finish. It’s
interesting that the appley malic acidity shows much more here on the blend, particularly on the
finish. Particularly good+
49

Meursault, Goutte D’Or
3 out of 7 have finished the MLF and these are all the new barrels, so this is oakier than it will
be. The cuvée will actually be 40%. The first barrels finished MLF almost a month ago, others in
May and some more recently in June.
Sweet new oak gloss. Satin on the attack, richness and weight. The fruit is to the fore and soaks
up the oak and the acidity does not exacerbate the oak tannin, rather the ripe fruit cloaks it.
Creamy texture and long golden finish.
Meursault, Genevrières
7.5 barrels and only one has not finished.
Creamy, slightly spicy aroma. Expressive, flowery and expansive palate; very ripe and broad with
a looser crocheted texture. Very typical; however juicy acidity slices through the more exotic
characters and is it is not heavy. The very persistent and vigorous finish is floral, slightly purple,
very fragrant and is woven with fresh acidity which kicks up on the very end. Excellent
persistence. Powerful. Fine to very fine. From 2013
*Meursault, Charmes
18 year old vines: 11 barrels and of these 3 have not finished MLF, so the sample a bit more
towards new wood at 50%, but it soaks it up. This is succulent but pure, juicy, satin textured and
has lovely smooth energy. This ripples to the finish. This is elegant.
40-75 year old vines: this was the last to start MLF which is now barely beginning. High potent
appley malic; very tight, direct, good depth of fruit, tense and pure with a very straight and
persistent finish. .
The blend: 11 young and 17 barrels of the old vines – so 30-40% MLF on the blend.
Ripe fruit complimented with a touch of new oak at the front of the palate; the smooth and ripe
citrus fruit is followed by high toned, lemon and lifted minerality in the middle palate. This is
underpinned with depth and intensity. It becomes very tightly focused and persistent on the
finish with just a touch of malic on the very end. Excellent length. This has lovely balance. Very
fine. From 2013
Meursault, Perrières
This comes from 2 barrels which have finished MLF. Both barrels are new, so more overt oak
than it will have.
This has a thick, rich and viscous character. Very powerful and vigorous, yet also tense and
mineral and very, very long. The minerality is keen and pure and forms the core of this wine. It is
very rich, but has excellent tension. The finish is channelled, vigorous and powerful. Probably
very fine. From 2013
Le Montrachet
1/3 hectare or 3.28 acres. The same crop as last year. All the barrels have only just started.
100% new oak.
Tightly focused, very intense, and powerful. This has great substance and tension and
persistence. It is compact, edgy; the most unapproachable Montrachet I have tried this vintage,
but what is most significant is the finish, which has the calibre of a top grand cru. Probably
Outstanding. From 2015
Stockists
UK:
Admans; Dmaine Direct; Justerini and Brooks; Lay and Wheeler; Fields, Morris & Verdin;
Tanners.
50

USA: Beaune Imports; Burgundy Wine Company; C’est Vin LLC; Chambers and Chambers;
Classic Wines Imports Inc.; Connoisseur Wines; Esquin Imports; Horizon Wines; Michael
Skurnik Wines; Wiens Unlimmited.
France: Selection Becky Wasserman, France.
51

Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault
Jean-Pierre Latour remarks, “In the village wine we had just under 12 degrees and in the 1er cru,
for example Bouchere was 13% and Genèvriere more than 13.5%. We have seen the big
difference between the village and the 1er in 2008. Normally we would expect only 0.8
difference, but with the stress of the hail, you lose a week as the plant needs to recover. You are
left with half of the leaves. Although in late July and to the end of August the plant produces
more leaves, it not enough to compensate. The acidity for the 1er cru was 4.5 and village 4.2.
This is similar to the acidity of 2005.”
Jean-Pierre Latour considers the 2008 is, “a bit like 2006 but with more acidity.” Will it age longer
than 2006 “I think that you will have to drink the 2006 before the 2007, but the 2008 is very
pleasant because of the fruit, so can drink it early on. But it will keep later because of the acidity.
The particularity of this vintage is that the fermentation took a long time, until Christmas and this
helps with the complexity of the wines. The delay was probably just due to the concentration
levels …the natural yeast in the cellars struggled.”
Jean-Pierre will be very careful about how much more bâtonage he will do. It will be between 2
and 4 more. With the Genevrières, for example, he feels it is at the edge now and needs very
little more. “We will do just one bâtonnage on the Genevrières and two more on the Charmes.
We do not want the Genevrières to become too rich and we are almost far enough now. We have
to do one as we are on the lees and in barrels, but the Charmes can take more. Genevrières is
nearest to the final wine as it finished the fermentation and MLF first.”
“In 2007 we racked with fine lees to support the wine and to make it deeper. With the 2008, I
will decide cuvée by cuvée whether to take the wine clean from the lees or not.” Jean-Pierre
racks into stainless steel vat for premier cru to blend the barrels in the summer, and the wine
goes back into 1 year old barrels for 5 months.
A very well executed flight of wine with excellent typicité. There is careful attention to detail here
and it shows in the wines. All the tasting was from one year old barrels.
Bourgogne Blanc
This comes from Les Vaux area. This is rounded and pure with ripe apricot. Very good balancing
acidity. Silky and appealing. An attractive Bourgogne Blanc. From 2010
*Meursault, Cuvée Charles Maxime
7 parcels including Limozin, Corbin, Crotots, Les Pelles, Vireuils and Malpoiriers. These village
wines were lower in production than normal at about 35 h/ha. The Limozin will always be
included in the village blend, as it has been since the 2004s.
This is much richer and more glossy. Weight on the attack, ripe and buxom in the middle palate,
succulent fruit and nicely balanced acidity. This has an edge of smooth minerality and a good
assertive finish. Very good. From 2011
*Meursault, Les Narvaux
This has not finished the MLF – 80% through
The palate is quite muscular with a firm edgy, compact palate. Good density of fruit on the finish.
There is a core of polished granite minerality and vigour on the finish. A good Narvaux.
Particularly Good. From 2011
Meursault, Les Bouchères
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One of the first to be picked as Jean-Pierre was careful not to lose the natural acidity.
Expressive floral aroma. Ripe and exotic and very floral on the palate too. Pink and pretty and
looser knit. This has quite an expansive palate balanced with lime-bright acidity on the finish,
which has just a light waft of mineral. Particularly Good. From 2011
*Meursault, Porusots
“The Porusots and the Perrières are always the latest to be picked. They take a while to gain
sugar, but I am not worried as they retain their acidity.”
This has slight spice and deeper crystallised citrus aroma. Rich attack, slightly honeyed and full
and concentrated middle palate. Opulence with muscularity and richness here, cut through with
juicy, citrus acidity. A boldly structured wine with depth and balance and a dense fruit finish.
Probably Fine. From 2011/12
Meursault, Les Charmes
Fragrant, lightly citrus with a hint of honey on the aroma. Silky attack. It glides on to the palate,
subtle, yet intense. Smooth minerality and sweet acidity. It is very even and self contained and
ripples gently to the finish. Quite seamless with the acidity gently woven into the fruit. Long and
flowing finish. An elegant Charmes. Fine+. From 2012
“This harmony of small elements in the Charmes, Genevrières and Perrières make them the top
level of premier cru,” says Jean-Pierre. “They have the elegance.”
Meursault, Les Genevrières
Lifted aroma with spice notes; somewhat exotic, quite lifted and slightly floral. The palate is spicy
too; combining delicacy and richness. It is lacy and broad. Certainly a more expansive palate.
The acidity is enmeshed in the spicy fruit. The cadence is different. It is slower than the
Charmes. This is more overt, whereas the Charmes is more subtle. The persistence is convincing
and there is a lift of freshness right at the end of the palate. Exotic, but not heavy, Genevrières.
Fine. From 2012
*Meursault, Les Perrières
This is more reticent on the aroma after the Charmes and especially the Genevrières. The attack
is tight and channels along a linear, taut edged palate. Firm, compact central core. Tightly wound
energy and cool reticence. It really shows on the finish which is penetrating, steely and very
persistent. This has power and cool mineral elegance on the finish. Fine+. From 2012
Puligny-Montrachet, Le Champ Canet
Glossy, ripe citrus aroma. Pounces on the attack. It is concentrated and vigorous. It combines
rich, opulent golden fruit with intense, lime-like acidity. Thick smooth minerality on the finish.
Assertive and ripe finish with good lifted freshness on the end. Particularly good+. From 2011
Meursault, Les Genevrières, Cuvée de Pierre
With 59 years old vines this is the oldest part of the parcel in the highest place. The proportion is
50% new wood, as there are only 2 barrels this year. When they have three, which is normal, it
would have 2 new barrels to one older one.
Compact and more inscrutable aroma versus the classic Genevrières. The palate is tighter, more
compact and intense; more lifted and defined. There is light minerality here too, slightly stony
minerality. And the finish is precise, long and very fresh. Fine+. From 2012.
Stockists
53

UK: Bibendum; Clark Foyster Wines; Thorman Hunt.
USA: Charles River, Bayfield, Stacole
54

Domaine Matrot, Meursault
“It was incredible here,” says Thierry Matrot. “There was no spring and no summer and a big
early storm in July. It was a very small harvest. The weather was good from the 10 th or the 12th
September. The it was nice and dry because of the wind which we needed because rot was
developing. It just dried the rot and it did not evolve. The ripeness was good as the harvest was
small. Very good white, average red. In the red I used a very short maceration and no pigeage’
just to find the fruit and not structure… but the market sometimes needs a wine just to drink.”
The acidity was between 1999 and 2002. We have the fruit and nice ripeness of 2002, but the
acidity levels are less than in 2002. (For the reds he considers the 2008 is between the 2006 and
2004. I was very happy with my red 2004. The fruit is like 2006 and the body and tannins like
2004.)
Thierry does no analysis during the winemaking process. He is not interested in the levels of
malic acidity for example. He measures for pH after the MLF. He simply looks at the general BIVB
analysis at harvest time. “In 2008 this said high malic acidity,” he shrugs, “so it is not a surprise
from the weather.”
Thierry does not like new oak. He buys only 4 barrels each year and uses it mainly on the
Bourgogne and not for the premier cru. He is concerned that part of the problem that has been
experienced with premature oxidation of white Burgundy is due to keeping the whites in barrels
for up to 18 months in new wood.
Bourgogne
4 parcels; One of which is on the Volnay side, two just under the Meurault appellation and one
on the Puligny side. It represents a good overview of Meursault-style Bourgogne Blanc.
Ripe, citrus aroma. Creamy oak cloaks the fruit creating a simple rounded wine with nice
freshness and a light mineral touch on the finish. Forward wine. Pleasant to attractive. From
2010
Meursault
The MLF is about 75% finished. 11 parcels from all around the village including a large parcel in
Au Village where there is 1 hectare. 5.5 to 6 hectares in total.
Very lactic note on the aroma. Good creamy palate, soft with ripe lemon and peach fruit, an
ample rounded middle palate and fresh limey acidity on the lively finish. Good to Good+ .From
late 2010/11
*Meursault, Blagny
(This is from La Pièce Sous le Bois.)
High toned and lifted. Lively on the attack, bright, zesty and fresh. Delicious juicy grapefruity
attack. The palate has a racy top note and is very fresh. An assertive, straight, well de-lineated
palate which focuses well to a long mineral finish. Particularly good+to fine. From 2011/12
The remaining wines are between 25-40% through MLF
Meursault, Charmes
This is just 25% through the MLF which is strange.
Just a touch of spice on the nose. The palate has seductive and quite opulent fruit on the front.
Very juicy, sleek and lightly curvaceous. Despite the malic acid the acidity sits well in the wine
55

showing green apple on the end, but not aggressive. The potential balance looks good. The
gentle seductiveness of the fruit bodes well. Not a big Charmes, but a light, quite elegant one.
Potentially Fine. From 2011
Meursault, Charmes 2007
Nutty aroma. Engaging marzipan notes on the attack. This has a lightly plump palate, combining
a certain lightness of touch with intensity. It has dancing energy and appealing notes of almond
and flowers with pure, lemony fruit. There is a glossy minerality on the finish. An elegant
Charmes. Score 18. From 2012
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Chalumeaux
The fermentation has not quite finished. It didn’t stop fermenting during the winter and started
MLF in early June with some residual sugar. Thierry is carefully following the volatile acidity. “I
don’t know why it has happened this year,” he says. “The level of sugar in potential degrees was
maybe 13.5 versus the Charmes at 13.8 and the acidity was about the same, but the
fermentation never stopped.” He thinks this could be because he cools this upper part of the
cellar and had to start this just as the Charmes was beginning to ferment as other wines were
well on their way though fermentation. Perhaps the yeast struggled. “It is not a problem. I sleep
well. One point is very positive,” he jokes, “The sugar and acidity combined make it very
comfortable to taste it now!”
This has cool grip in the middle palate and despite the sugar there is a tight, savoury mineral
note. It has firm acidity, but is not aggressive. There is depth to the palate and the finish is long.
This has promise. Particularly good++ maybe fine. From 2011/12
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes
This has a lovely, pure and energetic palate. There is a bright, cool stone on the middle palate
and lively vivacity. Shimmering minerality. There is a fine line to the palate carried to the finish.
Probably fine. From 2012
*Meursault, Perrières
80% MLF
Bit of reduction on the nose. This has depth, tension and energy; pure , focused and racy. This is
a notch up in power and intensity and the finish is persistent and flaked with quartzy minerality.
Distinguished and persistent. Fine+ From 2012
Meursault, Perrières 2007
This is cool, reserved and steely on the nose. Sharply edged, dynamic, pure and energetic. It
vibrates to a long and mineral finish. It has a lively minerality and elegant balance. Score 18.5
From 2011
Stockists
UK: Gardner’s Folly; Corney & Barrow; Handford’s; Connolly’s.
USA: Diageo Château & Estates Wine Co.; Vineyard Brands Inc.
56

Domaine Pierre Morey, Meursault
“We always keep a lot of lees if they taste good, but in 2008 we sorted a lot and were more
severe with the sorting and perhaps there was less lees,” remarked Anne.
A fine, dynamic and pristine flight of white wine. (The Aligote sample from tank was the only
exception)
Bourgogne Aligoté
2/3 through MLF. This sample was taken from tanks as this was the most forward with the MLF.
Picked 30 th Sept and 1 st Oct. The degree at harvest was 12.0-12.3. Because of the hail they had
very little production and is mostly in barrels this year. However this is from tank and not
showing so well. Quite a grassy/oily aroma with some reduction. I need to taste it again.
t
Bourgogne
In this sample the MLF has finished, but this is just three parts of the cuvée, not all the Lieuxdits.
The Bourgogne Blanc parcels had the lowest yields for domaine Morey in 2008.
Unfortunately they have more parcels in the North part of Meursault, including Les Herbeux, Les
Vaux etc. They yielded just 24hl/ha. “We harvested this all together from the 25 th at the
beginning and we had to sort a lot because of the hail.”
Good depth to the aroma. The palate is concentrated, rather compact and direct. It is slightly
herbal, energetic, very fresh and finishes with a bit of punch. Certainly attractive. From 2010
*Meursault
This represents the final blend, but the MLF has not really begun. Les Forges, Les Pellans and Les
Chaumes and Les Narveaux.
This has depth and intensity. The palate is precise, firm and mineral. It is tense and the acidity is
very firm, but it has not passed though MLF. A tight and long finish for village wine. Promising.
Very good+. From 2011
Meursault, Les Terres Blanche
This is 1/3 of the way though MLF. They started with this vineyard, which is just next to Gouttes
d’Or, in 2006.
Slightly spicy. It is more open and expressive. It has a looser crocheted texture than the
Meursault above. It is more fruit-driven, quite flowery and spicy, is inviting and a little exotic.
Very Good+. From 2011
*Meursault, Tessons
Just 4 barrels. This is compact, tight and vigorous. Very straight with excellent depth and
intensity for a village wine. It has a savoury, mouth sapping stony minerality and piercing
persistence. There is richness with austerity. Top notch. From 2011/12
*Meursault, Perrières
“This has not begun the MLF, but is no trouble. We like if possible to rack before the harvest, but
if the malo is late and the harvest is early this will not be possible.”
Sleek glossy aroma. It slices onto the palate, tight, channelled and focused. It has a sharply
edged palate with a fine, long line. It powers to a taut finish which has excellent focus and
minerality. It has a fine vibration. Very fine. From 2012.
58

*Bâtard-Montrachet
This parcel is at the top of Bâtard-Montrachet, just under Montrachet, where the vines are
planted horizontally across the slope, just below the wall which runs beside the road. It’s a good
place. This has not started the MLF.
Firm and compact profile. There is exceptional depth and intensity. It is extremely compact. At
the moment is incredibly austere to taste, but the core is very impressive, as is the power, vigour
and intensity on the finish. It is very, very persistent. Potentially outstanding. From 2013.
Red
The reds now represent 30% of Pierre and Anne’s production. “I am very proud of the results as
the grapes were not good,” says Anne, “but we sorted out all the very best and put only the very
good berries in the tank.” It was a bit early to taste them.
“The flowering of Pinot Noir in 2008 was concentrated, although it was 8-10 days late. Flowering
was late in Chardonnay from start to end of June, but for the red between 18 th -22 nd June very
compact and quick.”
They have done a lot of work and a good job throughout on these red wines.
Bourgogne
1/3 though. MLF. “For red the north is better than south,” comments Anne..
The fruit is bright, pure, zesty with a touch of minty character. The tannins are light. A bright and
appealing wine. Pleasant. From late 2010/11
Monthelie
Some ploughing by horse here. “After the ploughing it is like sand”. It really aerates the soil well
Finished MLF. Slightly darker fruit aroma. Juicy attack, moderate tannins, fruity and spicy with
touch of mineral and tar on the finish. Attractive.
Meursault, Les Durots
The MLF has finished.
Lifted, bright, slightly methyl aroma. Attractive. The palate is zesty, orangey, slightly spicy with
light but firm tannins and good acidity. A bright, lively pinot with some more meaty notes
beneath. Good. From 2011
Volnay, Santenots
This has sweetness, plumpness yet delicacy to the fruit. Very fresh although the acidity
emphasises the tannins. A juicy finish.
Pommard, Les Grands-Epenots
MLF has finished. 13%
Succulent fruit on the front of the palate. Good firm tannins, darker fruit, and sturdy middle
palate, quite compact. It has potential.
UK: Justerini & Brooks; Lay & Wheeler; IECWS
USA: Wilson Daniels Ltd.
Stockists
59

Domaine Guy Roulot, Meursault
Jean Marc’s Domaine suffered badly from hail this year as it devastated his Bourgogne Blanc. “It
appeared as if we lost 60%, but the reality was 90%. I sent the team there to select the grapes
and they had nothing.” Fortunately he has a 1 hectare parcel on the other side of the village, and
the Bourgogne Blanc came from this, but the production was slashed..
“When the weather became better the concentration was surprising.” Jean-Mac started
harvesting from the 24. th and 2the grapes gained a degree per week. As with others in
Meursault, he recalls it being sunny not just light. “Some very good weather. Not the same
process as 2007. The physiology of the vine was over in 2007 when the wind came. In 2008
there was maturation and concentration.”
Jean-Marc describes how the northern part of Meursault towards Auxey-Duresses was the best
part because it ripened later and it was not so sensitive to the rot which was brought on by the
rain they had until the 10 th Sept. “We had to select in all the southerly vineyards and I lost
between 15-25 percent. I had a sorting table, but I prefer to use this for the reds than the white.
I don’t like it much for whites as I want to move quickly. What you gain in quality grapes you
lose in oxidation.”
Were certain terroir better adapted to the conditions “Maybe on the Cote, Tessons and Tillets
were better because of the drainage, Bouchères was difficult, but then Charmes, which is low
wasn’t affected so much.”
“You cannot speak generically of 2008. It depends on the part of the village.”
The MLF are late this year. They are all unracked and still on the lees , with the exception of the
Aligoté
“The 2008 is more my palate than the 2006, because of the acidity. But the 2007s, I love them.”
Bourgogne Aligoté
This has been racked.It was not affected by the hail to the same extent as the Bourgogne, just
about 30%, so the vine did recover. “When it is a small amount the vineyard can support it.”
The fruit is concentrated and citrus. Quite rich. The acidity is firm, but balanced and it has a
slightly savoury mineral edge. Very pleasant indeed. From 2010
Bourgogne Blanc
As there are several parcels on the damaged Southern side near the house the one hectare on
the Puligny side makes up most of the cuvée this year. MLF finished and sulphur was added
some weeks ago.
The sulphur is evident on the nose. However the fruit has good density and juiciness. Zesty, juicy
acidity with a touch of minerality, which really carries to the finish. Good balance of fruit and
acidity. Very attractive. From 2010
Meursault, Luchets
The MLF has finished and received some sulphur a month ago. TA 4.85 13% pH 3.22. “We
thought we would have to chaptalise this, two weeks before harvest!”
Lovely rich fruit, very sweet and honeyed aroma with a touch of orange on the palate. Again this
has lovely juicy acidity, is rounded, forward and peachy. A sunny and open wine with a hint of
60

the exotic on the fruit driven finish. This has a high acidity TA, but it is well balanced with the
rich fruit. It is very engaging, but not quite as mineral and energetic as it can be here. Very
good to particularly good. From 2011
*Meursault, Meix Chavaux
This finished the MLF recently, and has had some sulphur. TA 4.9; pH 3.11 and degree 13.00.
“These were the healthiest grapes of the harvest, yet it is at the beginning of the slope and has
deeper soil. This used to be a thicker wine but is changing and becoming more structured.” Jean-
Marc has noticed the most improvement in Meix Chavaux and Charmes from the use of the
organic methods which he has been using in the vineyards since 1999. (In exactly the same way
from the Ailgoté to the premier cru). “They are both at the beginning of the slope and in deeper
soil, so maybe before they were organic the soil had more water. They have benefited in
becoming more mineral. The Meix Chavaux has become much more elegant.”
Rich, ripe fruit and dense. It is straight, quite a broad straight palate and well contained. The
acidity is very firm, but balanced. The acidity feels higher on the finish, which is quite long with
rather an austere minerality. It has firm structure. More battened down than the more
voluptuous and open Luchet. The structure indicates a potential in the same league as the
Vireuils, but it will take longer to integrate. It shows well in this vintage. Particularly good. From
2011/12
*Meursault, Vireuils
13.1% pH 3.14 and TA4.95
This is more even and integrated. It is energetic with lovely pure and citrus fruit and a neatly
defined streamlined palate. It has a pacy finish with fine silky minerality. Delicious. This shows
really well in 2008. Particularly good+. From 2011
The next 3 wines are 3/4 to 4/5 of the way though the MLF
Meursault, Tessons, Cuvée De Mon Plaisir
This has a glossy richness to the aroma and a curvaceous palate with quite a lot of glycerol. It is
smoothly edged and very dense. The acidity is also high. It slices through the ripe fruit but will
soften a little and integrate while providing a good foil for the fruit. It is a concentrated, thick and
rich Tessons, not as elegant as normal, but with an attractive gloss. Particularly good. From
2011/12
“This has the lees still. Fining will be very important on this wine,” remarks Jean-March and the
fining will sharpen this up. He is right to say “This is not finished.” He points out “There was
more rot, more sorting and this is why it has more concentration and perhaps is not as elegant.”
Meursault, Bouchères
Harvested first as usual (22 nd September). “This is because the soil is thin. It is a real test every
vintage. It ripens about a week earlier than everything else. Every harvesting it has this character
and because we need the acidity, we pick earlier.”
This has a spicy, much broader and more expansive palate. Some purple, exotic characters.
Looser crocheted texture. Very ripe and perhaps a touch ponderous. However it has a very
decent balance of acidity. Spicy purple finish. It is very well managed for this vintage. Fine. From
2011
Meursault, Le Porusot
Harvested 24 th September. This has almost finished MLF. “It has a very low yield due in part to
millerandage.
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A real richness to the aroma. Honeyed and mandarin characters. Glossy on the attack. (quite a
lot of gas). This is bigger palate, but compact and dense. It is the most disjointed to date, but it
has a firm, vigorous, shaley, mineral finish, which is promising. Fine. From 2011/12
*Meursault, Charmes
This is sleek, silky and pure. Elegant, fluid and rippling, yet it has a firm, taut core. The acidity is
finely woven into the fruit. It is very precise. There is a delicious and focused minerality entwined
in the wine which stretches the long fine finish. Very harmonious. I think this is one of the best
Charmes I have tasted here with its fine long mineral palate and is among the very best of the
vintage. Very Fine. From 2012
Stockists
UK: Domaine Direct; John Armit Wines; Haynes, Hanson and Clarke; Berkman
USA: Kermit Lynch; Michael Skurnik Wines.
62

Domaine Darviot-Perrin, Monthélie
Didier Darviot started his harvest on 24 th September and harvested for one week. He recalls that
it has “marked acidity and very low pH. You had to be prudent at harvest to get the equilibrium.
It is a vintage marked with the whole citrus family; marked by the characters of ‘agrume’. It has
less tartaric than in 2008. The last three weeks saved the harvest. I was very pessimistic before
this.”
“It has acidity, but is also rounded. We used light bâtonnage, because our vines are old and they
always have marked acidity. The age of our vines gives acidity in the wine and roundness.”
“We didn’t need any chaptalisation. The grapes were picked with good sugar levels, for example
Village was picked at 12.5 to 12.6% potential alcohol; Tessons at 13.2. We keep a lot of leaves
for a high canopy. We have been doing this for four years and we find that we don’t need to
chaptalise now. The trimming is all hand done as the tractor is not high enough.”
“In the last two weeks there was great concentration. The sugar increased 1 degree a week in
the last two weeks. Also the acidity was concentrated. For us it was a miracle. However there
was not very high phenolic maturity for the reds.”
“The fermentations were very long. This was because of the low pH. The cellar is also very cold
here and when the weather warms up then the MLF starts. They always happen in June Tessons
and the Bourgogne have not started.”
They use natural yeast and for the past 4 or 5 years have experienced long fermentations. “It is
long and delicate to work. We do not want the fermentation to finish in November. We bring no
yeast and the indigenous yeast takes longer. All this work is very delicate and we have to be
vigilant. However the fermentations must be finished in June.”
“To have the light bâtonnage has been very good for this vintage because the acidity has been
very marked. It gives the roundness and gras. We have to find a balance between gras and
acidity.”
“I prefer 2008 to 2007, because the degree is higher, but it is not heavy in the wine and the
acidity gives the tension. It has personality. It is a vintage of hope. Because of the bad weather,
but also during the vinification I was worried. We had heard that the VAs were high, but we did
not have any. The pH meant that we had no problem with volatility.”
The wines here are very pure and well defined. The Domaine style is very elegant. I could star
them all.
Bourgogne, Les Magnys
Very lifted and bright aroma with plenty of citrus fruit. Zesty attack. Pure fruit with fresh acidity
(the MLF had not started). The finish is energetic and very fruity. It looks promising. Certainly
attractive+. From 2010
Meursault, Clos De La Velle
This is expressive with slightly deeper white peach and lemon aroma. Quite rich on the attack.
Pure and bright with a little more richness in the middle palate. Very good balance and a good
fruity finish. Good+ From 2010
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*Meursault, Les Tessons
This has not begun malolactic. Sleek note to the aroma. Ripe lemon. It glides energetically onto
the palate. There is a keen depth and intensity to the fruit to the middle palate. The acidity is
very firm, but will soften. It has good definition and the finish is attractively lively and pure with a
touch of smooth mineral at the end. Very good+. From 2010
Chassagne-Montrachet, La Bergerie
At 99 years old these are the oldest vines at the domaine. About 50% through MLF.
This has an expressive, yet delicate floral aroma with a touch of spice and mandarin. Broader
attack to a more expansive palate. Much more gas here. There are orange and spicy notes, but
the palate is quite subtle. The acidity is already integrating into the palate and it is softer. The
finish has slightly exotic fruit and is light, but appropriately sustained. Good+ From 2010
Meursault, Santenots
As they were higher in the parcel they were less touched by the hail and, as Didier points out,
hail damage on Chardonnay has less impact than on the reds. This has also done about 50% of
the MLF.
This is lifted and citrus with notes of grapefruit on the nose. Rich, warm and quite compact. It is
firm and has some grip. It is a broader, but very contained palate. The finish has some vigour
and density. Particularly Good+ to Fine. From 2011
*Meursault, Charmes
The MLF has almost finished; about 75%
Rather a subtle, silky citrus. Cool. Subtle on the front of the palate, but it gathers bredth. (Lots of
gas). There is a smooth generosity to the middle palate and lovely woven acidity. It has an even,
gentle cadence and a long and elegant finish. Very harmonious and self contained. The finish is
really quite long. Not a substantial Charmes. Rather it is restrained and elegant. Fine+ From
2011/12.
*Meursault, Genevrières
The MLF was about 50% through.
The aroma is light pink, floral and citrus. The attack is broader and the middle palate wider and
lightly curvy at the edges. There is a bottom note on which there are flowers. It is a touch exotic,
but delicately so. A Genevrières with a light touch. The acidity, although it still has malic, is not
especially high. The wine has a looser texture and a perfumed long finish. I probably prefer the
Charmes, but this is a lovely Genevrières and among the best I have tasted this vintage. Fine+
From 2011/12
*Meursault, Perrières
The MLF has finished, but recently. One month ago it had not started.
Pure ringing aroma. Strikes like a bell on a pure and high note. Crystalline, tight and energetic.
Brightly races across the palate. Then focuses in to a fine high, quivering wire finish. Lively with
vibration. A Perrières with finesses. Fine+ to very fine. From 2012
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Blanchot Dessus
The MLF had just finished a few days before.
Density to the aroma and a rich, compact palate. Ripe fruit is cut through with firm acidity and
tight, minerality. There is a taut chalky core on the palate which drives the finish. It is well
defined, straight and long with a savoury and stony end to the palate. It has personality and
elegance. Fine to very fine. From 2012
64

Stockists
UK: Decorum Vintners; Lay & Wheeler; Laytons Wine Merchants; John Armit Wines; Clarion
USA: Wildman; Contact Michael Stevens, Vins Divins; Admiralty; Atherton Wine Imports; Boston
Wine Co. Ltd.; Fruit of the Vines;
65

Domaine Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet
“About the same acidity as 2007, but with richer and more gras,” says Carillon.
Hrvesting stated on the 23 rd to the 30th. Healthy harvest with just a little noble rot.
An excellent flight of wine. Pure, restrained and elegant. They all belong on the hit list.
*Puligny-Montrachet
This comes from 11 parcels and the average age of the vines is 36 years. This will be assembled
in July.
This is a little reduced on the nose, but shows its purity of fruit on the palate. A tightly defined
palate. Taut in the middle palate with lovely acidity. It is keen, taut and long onto the finsh.
Vibrant minerality at the end. Precise and top notch village wine. From 2010/11
Puligny-Montrachet 2007
This has tightened up and become reclusive on the nose. Lovely acidity, vibrant, zesty and
mineral. Very focused finish. Much more constrained than 2008. Again a top notch. Score 16.
From 2010
Puligny-Montrachet, Champ-Canet
The MLF has not finshed. ¾ through.
Golden, ripe aroma, scented with delicious apricot fruit. Sweet, ripe attack to a silky palate, which
is woven with fresh acidity. It is a very fragrant and quite rounded; a succulent Champ-Canet
with a juicy, fruity finish entwined with freshness. There is a lot of gas at the moment as the MLF
has lasted for a long time. It should become stricter. Probably Fine. From 2011
*Puligny-Montrachet, Combettes
The MLF finshed 2 months ago.
This has plenty of deep, rounded, yet fresh fruit. This is underscored by compact, stony
minerality. Tight at the edges, more austere on the finsh. I like the finsh, strict, stony and dense.
Rounded palate with an appealing severity at the end. Fine+. From 2011/12
Puligny-Montrachet, Combettes 2007
Tension and restaraint. Vibrantly pure tense and chalky. A very well defined palate. Fine line to
the finsh. Score 18-18.5 From 2011
Puligny-Montrachet, Perrières
The MLF between ½ and ¾%. This is a blend
The aroma is lifted, lime-fresh and estery. It strikes a pure and ringing note. Excellent tension
and a racy palate with zesty acidity. A vibrant long palate with minerality woven into the where
the malic is also more prominent. This has lovely length stretched with minerality and lightened
with the purity of the fruit. Fine++. a Lovely Perrières. From 2011
*Puligny-Montrachet, Referts
The MLF finshed 2 weeks ago.
There is a light gloss here; a note of seductiveity. Smooth attack, rounded and full. Richness and
gras in the middle palate, cut through with fresh acidity. Slightly honeyed notes. There is a taut
and mineral core to this wine which carries through to a tense and cool mineral finish. Fine to
fine+. Excellent Referts. From 2011/12
66

Puligny-Montrachet, Referts 2007
This is quite battened down on the aroma. It has density in the middle palate, underpinned by a
mineral core. Vigourous with an excellent, stony, tightly edged, pure and powerful finsh. Score
18.5. From 2011/12
Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet
This is floral and rather expressive on the nose. Perfumed attack. There is light spice and lively
acidity. It is complex with a finely meshed fretwork to the structure. It has a spice and fragrance,
yet a purity and descretion. The finsh is long, but quite delicate. Fine++. From 2013
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Fields, Morris and Verdin; Lay & Wheeler; Charles Taylor.
Vineyard Brands; Neal Rosenthal.
67

Domaine Alain Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet
The affable Alain Chavy picked from the 27 th September to the 3 rd of October.
“On the 1 st day of September there was a lot of rain, but after the 15th September the rain
stopped and the mornings were very fresh with lots of wind. This is very good because this
stopped the botrytis and the grapes raisined and became sweet and we had good acidity.”
They had to do triage in Folatière and Clavoillon as there was more botrytis than the other
vineyards. “I don’t know why, but all the vines of all the owners had botrytis.”
Alain tells me that there was more malic than tartaric acidity in the grapes. At harvest Clavoillon
had 5g in malic and 2.5g tartaric and this proportion was typical. 2007 is more acidic after the
malic than the 2008. To give an example of the pHs before the MLF: Folatières was 3.20.
The MLF was a little late, because of the high malic and the cold cellar, which is 8 degrees in the
winter. The MLF finished just two weeks ago.
Alain comments that the 2008 is “a little like 2006 because it is round and had a lot of acidity
before MLF, although afterwards it is lower. It is less aromatic than 2006, but has good
concentration.”
They do bâtonnage once a week after the alcoholic fermentation until January. One every 3
weeks until April and then just one a month from now on. In August he will put the wines in tank
until bottling at the end of the year.
There are some appealing wines here. This is domaine is usually very consistent, so it is
surprising that there were a couple of wines which did not perform as well as they should. This
could be because they need some sulphur now as the MLF finished 2 weeks ago. These wines
need to be tried again.
Puligny-Montrachet
Six parcels of which this is just one, so it not very representative. This is from Noyer Bret. It will
be bottled at the end of December.
Lively, light and bright on the palate. It is narrowish, straight and lemony with a reasonably long
mineral finish. Good. From 2011
*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Charmes
More opulent aroma with hints of honey and mandarin. It is light, bright and dances across the
palate. The acidity is juicy and zesty. It has a cool minerality on the finish, accentuated by citrus
notes. A light, frothy fruit-driven finish. Rather elegant. Good+. From 2011
Saint-Aubin, En Remilly
Harvested on the 1 st or 2 nd October.
This has a rich aroma, quite heady and ripe. On the palate, very ripe, pineapple and melon,
slightly oily and lacks freshness and energy. At the moment, disappointing. To be tasted again.
68

Puligny-Montrachet, Champs-Gain
This was the last parcel to be harvested.
This also has a heady, slightly over ripe aroma. It is honeyed and sweet with notes of hay and
pineapple. It is very exotic. The palate has minerality, but is a little flat and enervated and falls
off on the finish. At the moment it does not show typical Champs-Gain characters or the quality
one expects here. To try again.
*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Pucelles
This is much more like it. It has a lifted, citrus aromas. Light, sherbet, bright and frothy with
delicate minerality woven into fruit. It is silky and floats across the palate with a gossamer touch
to a delicate, but intense finish, which is brightly lifted with fresh acidity. Particularly good. From
2011.
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Clavoillons
Attractive touch of honey on the aroma. Silky on the attack. Sleek and seductive, but not rich. It
is gently rounded and satiny in the middle. Warm minerality compliments the citrus fruit on the
finish. A lighter, but elegant Clavoillons. Particularly good. From 2012
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Folatières
The second to last day of the picking.
This has a discernable note of later picking. Rounded middle palate with notes of dried apricots,
but it flags a little and seems a dull. It picks up on the finish where it is slightly more mineral and
a generally tighter and more edgy. Potentially Particularly Good, but I would need to taste it
again. From 2012
Chevalier-Montrachet
The aroma is upright and taut. It is nicely focused, mineral and zesty on the palate. This has
good acidity and a very firm, bright chalky minerality. It is neatly edged, but not severe in any
way. It has a lovely long, persistent finish sewn with saline and chalky notes. The stony terroir
shows through here. While not the most profound Chevalier, it has typicity fashioned in an
elegant, lighter-bodied manner. Fine. From 2013
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Fields, Morris and Verdin/ Berry Bros.; Genesis; Enotria Wines; Charles Taylor Wines;
Loeb, Howard Ripley, Alexander Fraser
Diago, Chateau and Estate Wines.
69

Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet
“The most important were the last few days as the summer was not really nice,” remarks the
very genial Jean-Louis. Fifteen days before the harvest everyone thought it would be not be very
good and happily the last days were very nice with the wind which dried the vineyard and the
grapes. The conditions were good and without cloud. The grapes increased by about 2 degrees
in those days.”
Jean-Louis harvested at 12.5-13.5, but before the weather changed the sugars were less than
11% potential alcohol. “The acidity is like 2007. The pH between 3.20 and 3.30. The MLF was
normal here.” The harvest begins in January and finishes in March and has done so since Jean-
Louis built the winery.
He used a little more bâtonage in 2008, just until the MLF.
When asked about the vintage comparison he says, “Oh la, la. At the beginning I thought maybe
like 2007 with the acidity, but it has a little more strength.”
“I think it is between 2005 and 2002 in the quality. For ageing about the same as 2002. I think it
is a vintage which will develop during seven to eight years.”
There will be price stability for the 2008s.
A delicious set of wines.
*Bourgogne
The parcel lies below the 74.
Attractive, fruity, slightly lifted aroma. Creamy attack, rounded body, quite full and with a smooth
finish. Spot on. From 2010
Puligny-Montrachet
Les Tremblot, (“more Puligny in character, as the soil is argileous,” says Jean-Louis); Les Meix,
Les Levrons (“more rounded wine for there are more stones and gravel here and it is not so
heavy), Corvée des Vignes and Les Reuchaux. He also has Les Charmes, which is made
separately.
Lifted, slightly crystalised lemon aroma and an edge of honey on the attack. Silky and seductive,
it flows gently across the palate and has some very attractive fresh acidity and a touch of smooth
minerality on the finish. Good to very good. From 2011.
*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Charmes
“Because this is near Meursault Charmes it is rounder than the other Puligny. The soil is a little
like Les Levrons for it is lighter and has small stones.”
Notes of orange blossom and a slight hint of spice. It is rich and inviting with some high notes.
This is reflected on the palate which has plenty of energy and higher tone. It has very good
depth and concentration for village wine, but is also delightfully fresh. A good balance, which
carries to a lovely finish. Very good+. From 2011
*Puligny-Montrachet, Champ-Gains
This is floral and lifted and rather perfumed. A lively attack. It dances energetically across the
palate. Perfumed white fruits and good precision. It has a very attractive top wire which extends
to the finish. Very elegant and well executed. Particularly good, probably fine. From late 2011/12
70

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Perrières
In the lower part, over towards Referts, just under the trees.
Expressive and sleek aroma. Satin rich attack. Smoothly rounded at the edges, but again this has
good energy, refinement and a long, fresh and juicy palate. There is polished minerality which
carries this wine with persistence and refinement. Fine. From 2012
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Clavoillons
This is lower on the nose with a hint of spice. Lovely juicy attack. It has notes of ripe apricot
fruit, unctuous and with a hint of sweet hay. It has plumpness to the middle and a rich satin
texture, but there is energy to balance the ripeness and carry the glossy finish. Almost opulent,
but balanced and not heavy in any way. Fine. From 2011/12
*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Folatières
This is more compact, dark and has a touch of granite. It has a cooler and more reserved aroma.
There is a coiled energy in the palate. It is dense, taut and has well defined, tightly layered
mineral and fruit. Cool, dark and mineral here too. It is a firm and slightly edgy wine, but with
lovely deep fruit. The finish is long and slightly savoury. Delicious. Very firmly Fine to fine+ From
2012/13
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Berry Bros & Rudd; Enotria; Laytons; Lay & Wheeler; Christopher Piper; Charles Taylor.
Diagio, Château and Estate Wines
71

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet
Eric Remi has been the régisseur at Domaine Leflaive now for 2 years and this is his first vintage.
He describes the vintage as “difficult and it needed lots of rigour in the vineyard. It is a good
vintage, but we must wait for the malolactic fermentation to finish.”
Eric recollects the season as it affected this domaine:
“The pressure of mildew in the beginning of June was very high and then there was the pressure
of oidium in July. 2008 is a very difficult vintage because the weather was not with us for a very
good vintage. However in the end we were very happy. In 2008 it was not the fact of being
biodynamic, but the rigour of the treatment used. At the end of August we had a little botrytis
and we were very anxious. We did a treatment with talc, but then we had good weather after the
12 th September with N/E wind and the sun. It was not hot, but sunny and there was no humidity.
The wind stopped the development of the botrytis.
“It was an easy harvest with no humidity in the morning and we had the sun and the wind, but
the wind did bring the cold. By the end of the harvest on the 29 th September, in the morning we
had just 2 degrees, although it increased to 13-14 degrees by the middle of the day.”
They hire enough pickers here to pick at the optimum moment at the domaine. There were 70
pickers in 2008 and 50 slept on the premises. With this number they were able to do the whole
harvest in just 8 days. They fed more than 100 people on one day, which included all the winery
staff.
The yields were on average 44 hl/ha. The grand cru were 35hl/h and 50 for Bourgogne and
Blagny when about 45hl/ha to 53hl/ha would be normal. “The 2008 is pretty normal. If we did
not have any botrytis it would have been 50hl/ha.”
They began harvesting on the 22 nd September with the Bourgogne and Eric comments, “We were
alone in the vineyard, but we had 12.5 potential so we thought it was fine. The Bourgogne
parcels were 12.5-12.8 and we then went on to pick the village wines the day after. They were
nearer 13 potential and afterwards the 1er crus were at 13-13.5. The grand cru 13.5 to 14.2 by
the end of the harvest.”
“We used only 26 kilo of sugar for the cellar. If I had known before I would have used no sugar.”
Eric comments that in the juice there was plenty of Nitrogen, so plenty of food for the yeast, but
the fermentations were very slow to start, taking 4 to 6 days in the barrel. After a week the
density was 1040 and it continued fermenting slowly lasting one and a half months. They did the
bâtonage very late and did not do much. Eric doesn’t know why the fermentation was so long.
“With the long fermentation, the wines have a sucrocity and the acidity and fruit is well
balanced.” Eric Remy
Acidity: there was high acidity with equal proportions of malic and tartaric. Just a few barrels are
at the end of the MLF, many are just beginning. (The pH seems likely to be responsible).
Eric comments there was more malic than in 2007, where they had one part malic and 66%
tartaric. The pH before MLF was between 2.90 to 3.07 but after the MLF the pH near 3.15-3.20.
This bodes well for ageing. The 2007 was higher in general. About 0.5- 0.10 more than the 2008.
72

Mâcon:
“In the Mâcon the weather was similar, but the pressure of mildew was less important than in
Puligny, as was the pressure of oidium. We had good grapes and lots of juice, more than 60hl/ha
and good maturity. We needed no chaptalisation. We harvested between 12.5-12.8 potential
degrees at the same level of the Bourgogne in Puligny. There was no botrytis. The flowering was
better, because it began later and the conditions were very good in June, while in Puligny the
flowering started at the beginning of June and finished on the 23 rd June. (In 2009 the flowering
is very early and if the season is normal, therefore about 100 days long, the harvest could be 7 th
September). The acidity in Mâcon was 33% malic. So it was in similar proportion to the TA in the
Puligny.
These wines are more retarded than most on the palate. Many have not finished their malolactic
so the impression of acidity and mouth feel will change. After racking and sulphur one would
expect the aroma to sharpen and become less expressive, but more defined and focused. The
pHs even after MLF are low and these wines will take quite some time to open up, but should
have excellent potential to age with the low pHs.
Eric says, “The wines have lots of acidity and minerality and are powerful. Those that have
finished their MLF are well balanced with lots of aromatic precision. It is similar to 2007, but
larger in the mouth.”
Mâcon, Verzé
There are 9.3 hectares of Mâcon Verzé. The 3 hectare parcel of “Les Chenes” is on the east side,
facing west. The soil is stony and the north wind which funnels through the valley helps the
grapes keep their acidity. At the domaine they have simplified the process for the Mâcon. Rather
than making two wines Anne-Claude prefers to use the better wine to improve the quality of the
one appellation.
It is a little reduced at the moment. It has a rather tight and compact palate with bright citrus
fruit, decent breadth, minerality and tight chalky finish. This is grippy and appealingly fresh. Very
attractive. From 2010
*Bourgogne
This is finishing the MLF. The pH will be 3.10. It comes from two parcels. Some of the vines are
quite young at just 15 years old. The vines on the other parcel are 25 years old. This sample is
from the latter.
Expressive, youthful estery aromas of grapefruit. Zesty pounce on the palate. It is lively and
bright with sherbet acidity. It has very good density and palate coverage for Bourgogne. The
edges are crisply defined and there is plenty of sweet lemony fruit. A top notch Bourgogne which
certainly over performs. From 2011
*Puligny-Montrachet
This is made up of 7 parcels. They started harvesting in the middle and the north and then
finished in the south. Each parcel is made separately and the blend assembled just before
bottling. In this way they keep an eye on the work they are doing in the vineyard. This sample
is a blend of 3 parcels, one in the north and two in the middle. It has more than 6g TA at the
moment and the pH is 2.88. This is just at the beginning of the MLF, so the wine will soften.
A vivacious, expressive aroma. The attack is vibrant and juicy. The middle palate has ripe and
well-knit fruit. It is compact and tight. The impression of the acidity is not as high as one might
expect for the fruit is deliciously intense and enveloping. Taut and focused with shards of smooth
minerality on the finish. An excellent village wine. From 2011/12
73

Meursault, Sous Le Dos D’Ane
These are young vines. The first part of the vineyards was replanted in 1995 and a second part
in 2004. The pH is just 3.12. MLF has finished.
This has a generous and succulent aroma. In contrast the attack is arresting; cool steely
minerality slices though ripe fruit. The palate is reserved. It has a strict line, channelled well
defined and racy with impressive minerality for a young vineyard. The finish is long and
stretched. It has surprising power and should age very well. Fine. From 2012
Puligny-Montrachet, Clavoillon
This is a big parcel. They started harvesting it on the 25, th returned on the 27 th and came back to
finish after the grand cru on the 28. th It is just at the beginning of the MLF and has the typical
applely note and more than 6g acidity and a pH of 2.98.
Very fresh and estery aromatics. The attack is glossy and fulsome. It has an ample, svelte middle
palate and flows seductively. The minerality is polished and warm and compliments the dense
creamy fruit. It lifts on the finish, where it is sweet and vibrantly singing. It is harmonious,
despite the malic. This should finalise with a very good balance. Potentially fine+. From 2012
*Puligny-Montrachet, Folatières
26 year old vines. This was picked on the second day of the harvest. The pH is 3.22. The acidity
after malo is 4.8.
Flowery, fragrant aroma. Very inviting and slightly delicately spiced. It glides surreptitiously on
to the palate. It has smoothly dark minerality, like polished granite. It combines a firm, compact
character with creamy richness. It is tightly woven, seamless and powerful. The finish has a sleek
strength and is dense and powerfully long. An excellent Folatières. Fine to very fine. From
2012/13
Puligny-Montrachet, Combettes
This is at the beginning of the malo. More than 6 TA and pH 2.96. It should end up with a PH
of 3.2 like the Folatièr
This is more estery, vivacious, grapefruit and lime on the aroma. The attack has an attractive
edge of menthyl; there is an aniseed note too. It quivers with shimmering, cold, stony minerality
Lovely depth to this strictly edged palate. A great combination of savoury and lime notes and an
intense long finish. Fine+. From 2012
*Puligny-Montrachet, Pucelles
There are 3 parcels of Pucelles. A large parcel near Bienvenues; there is Clos des Meix and the
last parcel is just under the road. This sample comes from the first mentioned large parcel. It
was just finishing the MLF. Eric feels that the wine will tighten up and become more precise on
the aroma with a sulphur addition.
At the moment the aroma is open and expressive. It is fragrant and floral and slightly honeyed.
The palate is succulent, silky and svelte. It floats elegantly across the palate with poise and
grace. It is creamy, slightly dreamy and delicious. The acidity sits under the fruit and surfaces on
the finish, which tightens in with soft, satin minerality. Text book example. So stylish. Fine++
From 2012.
Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
Just beginning the MLF. TA 6g+ and pH of 3.0
Orange blossom aromatics, which are lifted and dance out of the glass. It has immediate weight
and richness on the attack and expands to a broad and flowery palate with unctuous, juicy
apricot fruit. It is spicy, expansive and curvaceous. There is a rich depth to this scopey structure.
The prolonged finish is carried on the acidity, which is intertwined with the fruit. Fine to very fine.
From 2013
74

Bâtard-Montrachet
Just beginning MLF. 4 parcels, this is the largest, which is contiguous with Bienvenues.
This is more compact on the aroma. It is tenser and more ridged on the attack and more
monumental on the palate. However it is still accessible. A full, broad-shouldered palate more
dimension than the Bienvenues and notable gras combined with powerful vigour. Full throttle,
dense finish. At the moment the balance of the richness and power with the acidity is more
impressive than the 2007, but the acidity will change. As with so many wines here, it is far from a
finished wine. Very fine. From 2013/14.
*Chevalier-Montrachet
This is also just beginning its MLF
Notably stricter on the aroma. It is reserved and quite upright on the attack. Superb chalky and
excitingly severe minerality. This has great depth and is altogether much more battened down
and streamlined. Yet the fruit cloaks the austerity of the frame with flesh, giving it a more honed
and toned profile. The finish is splendidly persistent, savoury, pure and stony. Very fine to
Outstanding. From 2015
Le Montrachet
Just starting the MLF. 7 TA and 2.90 pH. Just one large barrel.
High toned. This is pure and straight on the attack, restrained and contained in the middle palate
and yet silky and elegant at the same time. It has a suave, distinguished character; ripping and
melodious with great definition. This is a realm apart with an extra level of substance, refinement
and sophistication. It has fabulous intensity while being terribly discreet. Outstanding. From 2015
Stockists
UK:
USA:
John Armit Wines; Corney & Barrow; Goedhuis
Wilson Daniels Ltd.
75

Domaine Paul Pernot, Puligny-Montrachet
Paul Pernot started on the 28th September and finished on the 10 th October. These are pretty
rich wines. Not my favourite vintage here.
Bourgogne
This has a floral and delicate aroma with a touch of honey. The attack is fruity with notes of ripe
peach. A rounded palate, fulsome and succulent. Very simple, but pleasant enough. From 2010.
Puligny-Montrachet
The MLf has not finished yet.
This has a herbal aroma, quite savoury with a touch of attractive menthol. Pear fruit on the
attack, well ripened and juicy. It has good glycerol richness and fresh citrus acidity which cuts
through the ripe fruit. Nicely rounded palate with some sweet, smooth minerality on the finish.
Very attractive to good. From 2010/11
Meursault Blagny, La Piece Sous le Bois
Young vines, just 14 years old. This is the first vintage.
Quite dark fruit with a touch of spice and a slightly floral note. It is silky, creamy and glides
smoothly across the palate. Voluptuous orange scented fruit with smooth glossy acidity and a
lifted finish. There is a glossy touch of minerality which carries the finish. Rich wine. Very good.
From 2011/12
Puligny-Montrachet, Folatieres
This has about 4.7 TA after the MLF. Slightly herbal note on the aroma. The palate is sweet,
rich and ripe. It is rounded and fulsome with low toned, richly apricot fruit and thick with
glycerol. There is some sweet acidity to compliment the ripe fruit and a smooth thick mineral
finish. Plenty of ripeness. Very to particularly good. From 2011/12
Puligny-Montrachet, Clos de La Garenne
This has that attractive butterscotch, menthol aroma. Creamy on the attack, supple, satin,
rippling palate. It has very rich fruit with some smooth minerality coming through on the finish. A
seductive wine. Very to particularly good. From 2012.
Puligny-Montrachet, Pucelles
This has a lovely honeyed rich aroma. It is silky and seductive with slightly more freshness here
and more elegance. The fruit is very ripely apricot, but is tempered with acidity which comes
through on the finish and lifts the wine. This has nice balance. Particularly Good. From 2011/12
Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
Spicy, flowery and rich aroma. Very expressive and open. This is more discerning on the attack,
not as overt and slightly more restrained. It is rich and powerful certainly, but has lovely singing
acidity. The acidity is creamy and sweet and this combination carries to a long rich finish. Good
persistence. Fine+ From 2012/12
Bâtard-Montrachet
This has a rich, dense and thick heady aroma. It is powerful and open. It lands on the front of
the palate with honeyed, creamy, opulent fruit. Slight crystallised character. It is unctuous. The
acidity cuts through the ripeness and carries the finish. It is an overt wine with a juicy, honeyed,
yet fresh finish. Not very sophisticated. Fine. From 2012/12
76

Stockists
UK: L’Assemblage; Berkmann Wine Cellars; Lea and Sandeman; Howard Ripley; Robert Rolls
& Co.; The Winery.
USA: Little Wine Company
77

Château De Puligny-Montrachet
Twenty-one hectares for 21 appellations. One third red vines and two-thirds white.
2008 was small in volume because of the wind. In August the rain caused botrytis, but the wind
stopped the evolution of this. “In 1994 the weather was similar, but at the end it was different.
There was more grey rot in 1994. The expression of the acidity is in the direction of 1996, but it
is more smooth. I think this vintage is very particular,” comments the winemaker Jacques
Montagnan.
They started the 2008 harvest on the 20 th September. “It was very complex, starting and
stopping and it took one month while generally it takes ten days.
It was necessary to do triage for grey rot, while in 2007 there was no problem. They do a
selection in the vineyard and in the winery. “It is always necessary with the red, but not always
with the white. We had 8 people working on the selection table and altogether we had 80 people
working here at vintage, including 45 pickers. They harvest 2 hectares a day.”
They use natural yeast and the lactic bacteria present in the winery and normally practice
bâtonage here once every two months, but in 2008 it was once a month. “In 2008 we did more,
because of the high acidity. The acidity is of a similar level as in 2007, but there is more an
expression of acidity in 2008. It is like the level of acidity in 1996 after the MLF. Three quarters of
the TA was malic in 2008, but it is often like this. In 2007 there was a little more malic.”
Jacques has been here since 1987. He previously worked for Michel Laroche in Chablis and came
here when Laroche bought this property. When it was sold Jacques stayed on. There were just
13 hectares then and no premier or grand cru.
In 2003 he started to use larger oak formats with all the appellations, except the Bourgogne
Blanc. They use 600 litres and 350 litres.
The MLF here finished at the end of May. The wines are still on lees and some have sulphur
additions, but have not been racked.
Jacques prefers to bottle after 2 winters. He leaves the wines for 6 months in onyx tanks on fine
lees. Jacques intends to keep the wines longer in barrel for this vintage.
Bourgogne, Clos du Château
This comes from the vineyard in front of the Château. There are both 20 and 50 year old vines. It
has been run on biodynamic lines for the past two years, after being managed organically since
2001. They have a new tall wind machine in the middle of this vineyard, which is used against
frost there. “The freeze in April to the 15 th May was a real disaster for us,” commented Jacques.
Two thirds of the Bourgogne is made in barrels for the Bourgogne and rest is in tank. It is the
only appellation in which they to do this, in order to conserve the fruit. No new wood, just 2-5
year old oak barrels.
This has quite a glossy, expressive aroma. Creamy attack, rounded middle palate, bright and
lemony with good vibrancy. It is zesty with vivacious acidity on the finish. Attractive. From 2010
78

*Saint-Romain
“It is very high vineyard and the maturity is very late,” remarks Jacques. “We made the harvest
three weeks after we finished with rest of the Domaine. This is normal. It is very cold up here.”
They picked the Saint-Romain at the beginning of October. This finished the MLF end of April. No
new oak. Some 600 ltr barrels are used with this.
It has some light nutty aromatics from the lees. Quite reserved on the nose. Vivacious attack and
it has a tight, fine line and quivers brightly and precisely across the palate. Good definition and a
taut, tense finish. Over performs. Very good++. 2011
*Monthelie
The lieut-dit of Les Sous-Roches. “Only rocks here. It is high up,” remarks Jacques, “but the
maturity here is often earlier than in Saint Romain.”
The aroma is ripe and lemony; a touch floral and honeyed. Sweet entry on the palate, supple, yet
lively. It is ripe with floral top note and a dense, compact lower note. It has some interesting
more complex characters for a village Monthelie. Tense and dense with a good assertive finish
with a smooth dark mineral note. Very good+. From 2011.
Jacques feels it is ready for racking, while he will want to bâtonage on the Saint-Roman which is
stricter.
Meursault
Two parcels, one in Casse-Têtes, the other in Petits Charrons. It finished MLF at the end of May.
This is a sample blend of the two parcels from a 600l and 350l cask.
Expressive, peachy aroma with a touch of honey. A little gas still. Bright and spicy attack. Very
fresh with a gently rounded, fairly ample middle palate. It has verve and focus on the finish and
finishes on a sweet note. Good+. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet
Finished MLF at the end of February.
Slightly flowery aroma. Glides onto the palate; very silky with firm, but sweet underlying acidity.
The body has some breadth, but is well contained. There is a floaty top note and appealing
mandarin fruit with subtle richness and depth. It is not a big Chassagne, but a rather elegant
one. Good+. From 2011
*Puligny-Montrachet
One parcel of 1.5 hectares, which is declassified Chalumeaux due to top soil being shifted. It was
declassified in 1977. The balance, a very small percentage, comes from other parcels, including
Les Petit Nosyeres and Le Levrons. This came from barrels which finished their MLF at the end of
May. It shows more new oak than the final wine will have because the sample was taken, in part,
from a new barrel.
There is sweet fruit on the attack; notes of white peach, juicy and slightly spicy. It is nicely
concise in the middle. Good energy, zesty and with fresh acidity. It focuses well towards the end
of the palate. The finish has silky minerality enveloped in ripe citrus fruit. Very good. From 2011
*Saint-Aubin, En Remilly
Just one parcel. This ended the MLF at the beginning of May. They have a massive 2 hectares.
Part of this was planted in red vines which were taken out ttwo years ago to plant the whole area
in Chardonnay. The original Chardonnay vines are 35 years old. This vineyard was bought in
1992 and Jacques comments that it was one of the best purchases the domaine has made. It is a
massale sélection.
This is restrained on the aroma. Svelte fruit on the attack. It quickly dances across the palate
with racy energy. Tight and bright, direct and well channelled. There is sweet chalky minerality
and it is well focused on the finish. Particularly Good. From 2011/12
79

Meursault, Poruzots
The harvest is usually early here. They do not want too much alcohol, so they work on the
acidity. Jacques finds Poruzots is often too smooth and they want to encourage more minerality.
“There is not much earth here; big rocks, so the maturity is very soon.” The sample I tried had
finished MLF in mid May.
There is quite a lot of oak on the aroma, but the older barrels had not finished MLF and this is
from the newer ones. Rich attack, full, juicy and rounded. It is ripe with lower-toned peachy fruit,
which is quite well defined. There is a good balance of freshness and it finishes on a gravely
mineral note. Decent, if not the longest or most substantial Poruzots. From 2011/12
Meursault, Perrières
The MLF is just ¼ through.
This is very oxidative. Jacques is waiting for the rest of the rest of the MLF. Not really appropriate
to write a note.
*Puligny-Montrachet, Chalumeaux
This is often harvested at the end of the vintage, because of the influence of the trees, Jacques
tells me. However these have now been cut out. This has recently received some sulphur. I
cannot really comment on the nose. The palate is taut and compact with vibrant acidity. It has
attractively sharp, chalky minerality and a channeled, long mineral finish. Firmly Fine. From 2012
Puligny-Montrachet, Folatières
The MLF finished 3 weeks ago.
Notes of spice and slightly exotic flowers. Delicious attack, floral, smooth and seductive. Juicy
middle palate; gently ample and the acidity is enrobed in the rich fruit. It is creamy and long on
the finish. It is very appealing, but unexpectedly soft for Folatières. Particularly good to fine.
From 2012
Chevalier-Montrachet
MLF had just finished at the beginning of June. This will not be bottled before April or May
Glossy oak shows obviously, but so does the fruit. The palate is has a sheen and is silky textured.
The acidity is woven into the fruit. The edges are smooth, but well defined and there is a
compact, dense middle palate where the energy is neatly coiled. It is a more approachable
Chevalier than most. The minerality is smooth rather than austere, and it is rounded rather than
upright, however there is very good depth, intensity and persistence. Fine++. From 2014
Bâtard-Montrachet
The MLF finished at the end of May. Just ½ of a small 2 year old barrel. 150 bottles. “It is very
dangerous to use new oak and we do not want it to be 100%,” remarks Jacques. It is very
difficult to work in such small quantities and he has to do it with Bâtard-Montrachet and
Montrachet. The former will be racked in December and put in onyx tanks for 6 months. He is
very careful about the effect of the small barrel.
Glossy sheen on the aroma. The attack is broad and honeyed. It is very dense and full bodied
with a sumptuous generosity and slightly crystallised fruit characters. The acidity is enveloped in
the fruit. It has a very long svelte finish. Fine++. From 2013/14
*Montrachet
This finished the MLF in the middle of May. Just ½ a barrel. Last year they had one barrel of this
and the Bâtard-Montrachet. This is from Chassagne. It is in a 2 year old barrel. When new these
are used for other wines just to lessen the oak effect. Jacques will take the wine out of the wood
in October and do more bâtonage to keep down the level of oxygen in the ½ barrel. They
commissioned a custom made miniscule tall thin onyx tank to take the wine after barrel.
80

Intense aroma substance and vigour. The richness of the fruit is strictly contained. Power and
excellent depth. There is a glossy toned and honey quality and great persistence. Very fine From
2014.
Stockists
UK: Berry Brothers & Rudd Ltd; The Wine Society; Loeb
USA: Beaune Imports; Martin Scott wines; Veritas Wine.
81

Domaine Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet
Gérard Boudot comments, "It was normal for flowering, but during the summer we had lots of
rain and poor weather. The weather good after 15 th September and we began harvest on the
23 rd . We had the north wind and sunshine. It was a miracle. We had a small proportion of rot
from the beginning of August and it was necessary to sort before pressing. A bit like 2007 but the
harvest is later.”
“It is a very good year for me. But the problem is the quantity, which is very low due to the
flowering. (Gerard points out that May in 2009 year has been very hot and the flowering was
very early and they expect an early harvest.) We had to deselect 12-15% of the grapes due to
grey rot which is rare and was a lot of work.” They had more botrytis in the village and at the
beginning of the slope because the soil holds more water there.
“We had good acidity, like 2007, but a little less. There was an equal amount of tartaric and
malic. We had a small proportion of good botrytis.”
“In general we had 0.8 and 1 degree more than in 2007. We have good concentration in 2008
due to the wind and sun at the good moment. It was a big chance for us. 15 days before we said
it was a disaster.”
MLF has taken quite a long time. Part of the puligny village is still not finished, as it was not in
2007
“We need time to have the real expression of terroir in 2008,” says Gérard. “There is a good
compromise between acidity and body. It will keep 10 years because of the acidity,” he considers
it to be between 2007 and 2006 in style. “Good acidity, but more body than in 2007.”
Bourgogne
This was racked a few days ago. There are 3 different parcels. Approx one third in tank and 2/3
in barrels with 8% new oak.
Lovely white pear aroma with some melon on the palate. Fresh acidity, lively and creamy. It is
energetic and has a bright citrus finish. From late 2009/10
Chassagne-Montrachet
This is Les Enseignières and the MLF has just finished.
Slightly floral aroma. Lovely orange blossom flavours and fresh acidity. A gently rounded, slightly
plump body with a good hint of smooth minerality on the finish. A gentle wine, appealingly
fragrant. Good to very good. From 2010
*Puligny-Montrachet
5 parcels and cuvees. (This is a sample blend). The parcels are scattered all around the village,
so it is a good expression of village Puligny. “On the Chassagne side there is more clay in the
parcels and the wines are larger,” remarks Gerard, “and on the Meursault side the wines are
more mineral as the soil is better drained and stonier.” They make 100 barrels. It is a big cuvée.
This has an upright aroma. It pounces on the attack. Straight and citrus. It is direct, pure, fresh
and pacy. The minerality is cool and steely and glides though the centre of the wine to a focused
finish. Very good. From 2010/11
82

Puligny-Montrachet, La Garenne
Very poor soil. Planted 30 years ago.
Slightly more noticeable oak. Quite a creamy, rich aroma and a curvaceous first impression; ripe
and rounded and amply full in the middle. It then straightens out and focuses to a long, quite
piercing finish with attractively sappy, chalky minerality. Particularly good. From 2011
Gerard’s son-in-law remarks that this terroir shows well in a warm vintage, because of the
balance between the body and the minerality; more so than in a cold vintage.
All the next wines have 25% new oak, while La Garenne has 20%.
*Puligny-Montrachet, Champs-Gain
Two parcels: one on Les Truffières side and one in the middle of the vineyard. The domaine buys
in the fruit for this wine and it is always the same parcels.
Creamy palate with a silky rippling texture and lively dancing, pirouetting finish. It has a
delightful harmony of fresh acidity and vivacious fruit. Particularly good+. From 2011
*Puligny-Montrachet, Hameau de Blagny
Gerard Boudot’s daughter and son-in-law have made an acquisition of 4 ouvres of Hameau de
Blagny, which is planted with 50 year old vines. “The soil is deeper than in La Garenne. Hameau
de Blagny and Les Truffières have a microclimate within the walls and the trees which surround
the vineyards. The soil here warms up more quickly than in La Garennne, which is much more
wind and exposed, as well as being higher. The inclination of the slope is also gentler than in La
Garenne and there is more clay.”
This is perfumed and aromatic with a hint of honeysuckle. A firm, straight palate; direct and well
defined with good depth and intensity. It is rich, yet precise and mineral. Nudging into Fine. From
2012
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Referts
55 year old vines in deeper clay.
Touch of the exotic on the aroma. The attack is rather opulent, sliding to a rich and generous
middle palate with ripe apricot fruits. It is buxom and rounded with softer acidity, which sits
deeply cushioned in the fruit. It carries a little more weight. However the finish is fresh and
elegant. Fine. From 2011/2
*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Perrières
Youngest vines at this domaine. Just 22 years.
Exactly the same deep clay as in Referts, Gerard tells me, although the Referts is more compact
and the Perrières has more small stones.
Higher toned and more upright aroma. It is elegant and lively with dancing energy. It skips
across the palate. Quite sprightly and flecked with minerality. It is fresh and attractively intense
with a firm, persistent and savory, cool stone finish. Fine to fine+. From 2012
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Folatières
Two parcels in En La Richarde and one at the top of the slope, far on the other side. Gerard
points out that the best Folatières is at the bottom of the slope, but unfortunately they do not
have any vines here. “. En La Richard is a bit like the top of Chevalier. The ground is white like
chalk.” The vines are young here, just 10 years old.
A restrained, nervous and mineral aroma. It skips rather nervously onto the palate and is
reserved with a high-wired minerality. It has a vibrating, chalky top note with herbal and aniseed
fruit underneath. It is more mineral and savory than fruity. A lightish, but intense Folatières. Fine.
From 2011/12
83

Puligny-Montrachet, La Truffière
Only two barrels. They have a parcel on the edge of Champs-Gain. In the section below the
quarry where their vines are situated, there is more clay “and the wines are richer,” says Gerard.
In the top part the vines have been planted across the slope for ease of cultivation, but not for
maturation.
This has crystallized citrus aromas. There is richness on the attack. Concentrated and golden with
density and a slightly sumptuous middle palate. Yet, this is sliced through with sherbety
freshness. It has lift and verve on the finish and carries very well. Firmly Fine. From 2011/12
*Puligny-Montrachet, Champ Canet
55 years old.
This has a more ethereal aroma. It glides onto the palate. It is precise, well defined, direct and
intense. It has a very focused and persistent finish. I like the precision here. Fine+. From
2011/12
*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes
Expressive aroma, intense with white peach and slight spice. Rich on the attack. This has a
thicker, vigourous and more compact palate. It has breadth and depth and weight. There is
greater density here and a long assertive finish with a chalky reserve at the very end. Fine+.
From 2011/12.
Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet
The oldest vines of the domaine are here. They are about 70 years old.
This is floral with a distinct orange note. There is density on the attack and there is substance
with the richness on the middle palate. There is plenty succulent, ripe fruit with appealing
mandarin and orange blossom characters. It is rather nuanced. There is satin seductively and it is
juicy on the finish, which is very persistent, lively and delicately chalky at the end. Fine++ From
2012
Bâtard-Montrachet
40-45 year old vines. Mainly on the Puligny part and they purchase some grapes from the
Chassagene part.
A rich and opulent aroma. The attack is golden, honeyed and ripe. The palate is rounded and yet
not heavy. It has an unctuous, juicy quality; concentrated and broad. It is rich, quite weighty but
contained. It becomes more focused on the finish, showing sweet notes of hay and honey. Fine
++ From 2013
Le Montrachet
This is lifted and very youthful and estery. It has a taut, intense and mineral palate.
Sophisticated, well defined and direct with lovely depth and precision. It is quite a step up in
quality. This is pure, chiselled and has great vigour and intensity. Very fine. From 2013/14
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Justerini & Brooks; Lay & Wheeler; O.W. Loeb; Tanners Wines Ltd.; The Wine Scoiety
Vineyard Bronds ; Robert Hass Selection.
84

Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin
“Saint Aubin was more like Chassagne,” said Olivier Lamy. “There were fewer storms than in
Meursault. No rot, mildew or oidium in Chassagne and in Saint Aubin. It was an easy vintage in
Saint Aubin. There were perhaps more problems in Puligny.”
“In many places there was difficulty with oidium and mildew because of the rain. For those
working organically there was more work in 2008, but the sun came on the 15 th with wind. The
maturation was low, but there was concentration of sugar and acidity.”
“In 2008 all the people picked in the same 15 days. We picked from the 29 th September; a little
bit later than our neighbours. We felt we could hang on for more sugar and the acidity was high.
We harvested until the 5th October. The sugar was from 12-13.2 - a mean of 12.9 for all the
estate. The pH was from 3.05-3.15. When we tasted the juice we didn’t taste the acidity, even
thought the level was high. Short maturity; it was fresher and short, not like in a long summer so
you keep the citrus notes and the freshness of flowers. When the grapes mature in August the
fruit becomes more yellow fruit. With late September maturation it is fresher.”
“Yields: there was no rot, no millerandage so we got 50hl for village and 45 for premier cru. In
reds the old vines were 25hl/ha and the younger 35hl/ha.”
“As we picked late and the cellars were cold, the MLF has not finished. The evolution was slow
and we may bottle later; maybe not until November and December.”
“It has the good energy of 2007, but maybe a little bit less. More a terroir vintage, than a vintage
like 2003 and 2005.”
Bourgogne
Just finished its MLF. The parcel is just above the village with an east exposition. Olivier picks this
at the end of the harvest, around the 5 th October this year. It is in demi nuids (300 litres) and
only older wood.
Bright, zesty lemony aroma. It is lively with some bright and pure citrus in the middle palate.
Attractive. From 2010.
Saint-Aubin, Les Princées
Sample from older wood. There will be wine from some new demi nuids in the final blend.
Sleek aroma with ripe, rich citrus fruit. The palate is quite full with lovely, juicy acidity. It is very
fresh, lightly rounded and has a bright, lifted finish. Very fruit-driven. Good. From late 2010/11
Chassagne-Montrachet
The MLF has not yet started. The fermentation is very recent and maybe there is 1g sugar.
Estery aroma. Floral character on the palate. Full and rounded middle palate, good breadth of
fresh fruit. The acidity is not aggressive, despite all the malic being present. The richness shows.
It is juicy on the finish. It looks potentially very nice. Good++. From 2011
*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Tremblots
Same situation as Chassagne-Montrachet. The fermentation just finished and the MLF has not
started.
Estery with some floral notes. Streamlined palate with pure fruit which is bright. There is sweet
acidity, although the malic comes through at the end of the palate. It has a pure and long line for
85

village with some appealing straight minerality under the fruit. A very nice balance of fruit and
minerality. When it has gone through MLF the streamlined character should be even more
apparent and energetic. Lovely village wine. Very Good. From late 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Macherelles
The fermentation has not quite finished. MLF not started.
Very grapefruity. This has a lower note. It has breadth, some good density and volume. The
acidity sits well in the wine; it will be nicely rounded and soft when the MLF has gone through. It
has some soft graphite mineral on the finish, but overall a full and fruit-driven wine with some
weight, which carries to the finish. Potentially Particularly Good(+). From 2011/12
Saint-Aubin, Clos De Meix
Sweet on the aroma with a juicy, silky, curvy middle palate. It has a sunny-fruit profile, but is
nicely contained. The acidity is sweet and sits gently in the wine. An easy and expressive wine
with touch of honey on the finish. Good+. From late 2010/11
*Saint-Aubin, Derrière Chez Edouard
Spot of reduction. The MLF has just finished
Compact and reticent. Quite a tight, shaley, dense palate. This has good focus. The minerality
accentuates the acidity, which gives it cutting depth and good definition. Firm chalky minerality is
nicely layered and compact on the finish. Particularly Good+. From 2011/12
Saint-Aubin, Les Frionnes
When Oliver took his samples of this vineyard he discovered that it was not Marl Blanche as he
had expected, but small pebbly rocks. Mainly older vines of 50 years, some younger 15 year old.
Exotic floral character. Quite golden. Rich on the attack with juicy acidity set into the fruit. Nicely
rounded in the middle palate, but then it focuses to become slightly smoothly mineral on the
finish. Very good. From 2011
Saint-Aubin, En Remilly
This sample of En Remilly finished MLF in March.
Quite battened down on the compact, cool, stone aroma. Quite discreet on the attack, but gains
in depth, intensity and vigour. Firm and compact on the finish. Channelled and well edged. Not a
nervous En Remilly, rather more assured. Particularly Good. From 2011
Saint-Aubin, Clos De La Chatenière
The final blend will be 30%. “I have 30 barriques only 5 finished, so there is more new oak on
the sample than on the final blend.”
Quite glossy on the aroma. Expressive. Deep and juicy fruit on the front of the palate, then it
clamps down. The new oak at the end of the palate makes it somewhat aggressive, but the ripe
fruit is evident in the middle of the palate, and the smooth stone minerality comes through the
oak on the finish. Probably particularly good. From 2012.
Saint-Aubin, Murgers Des Dents De Chien
Sugar finished and the MLF has not yet started.
Satin on the attack with lightly golden fruit. The minerality and piercing citrus fruit come though
in the middle palate. It is sleek, energetic and vibrant. An elegant wine with cool and shimmering
minerality on the finish. Particularly good+. from 2011/12
Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet
The MLF is 30% through. One barrel and it is older oak.
86

Estery, high mineral aroma. This quivers. Good tension in the middle palate. Bright and very
elegant. It has a persistent high-wire finish. It is not the most profound, but has a lovely, long,
light mineral line. Fine. From 2012/13
*Saint-Aubin, Derrière Chez Edouard, Haute Densité
This is the high density. Olivier started high density planting in 2000. “14,000 vines per hectare
was the traditional density, not the 10,000 we work with now in Burgundy. People originally
planted at 28,000, then after phylloxera at 14,000 and then after the war at 10,000 as this is
easier to work with a tractor.” The MLF is at 30%. One large 350 litre and one older barrique.
Very estery and some gas, but you can see the vigour, depth and intensity. Very assertive with a
cold, channelled mineral finish. It is austere and pure; almost like sucking on stones. Very terroir
driven. Fine. From 2012
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Berry Bros: Lay and Wheeler; Domaine Direct; Genesis Wines; Lea and Sandeman; H&H
Bancroft
Le Serbet
87

Domaine Larue, Gamay
MLF finished here in February. Didier Larue was just about to begin the racking, so there was a
little reduction on a few wines, but very minor. It was a good time to taste these wines and they
were showing well. Didier started harvesting on the 2 nd or 3 rd of October. There was no hail here.
He spoke of the good light and the sunny weather in September. The days were short, but the
light was good and they harvested in fine weather. The harvest lasted about 7 days. There has
not been such a late harvest in his memory and not for a very long time.
“It was a miracle.” Didier considers, “the 2007s are very pure with acidy, while the 2008 are
richer. The 2007 is a good wine for keeping. I prefer the 2007, more like the 2001. It is lovely
and young. I prefer the 2007 to the 2004 which is more vegetal. Each year presents a new
challenge. We don’t have to get the good conditions of 2005. I prefer more challenging
vintages.”
They have a pretty comprehensive range of Saint Aubin premier cru here. Pure and lively wines.
Saint-Aubin,
Pure and lively. Zesty lime-fresh attack. Crystalline fruit and a lively fresh finish. Very attractive.
Saint-Aubin, Les Combes
This has a floral aroma. Sweet attack with fresh mandarin notes. Tight, lively line along the top
of the palate and some blossomy floral wider notes beneath. Lovely balance. Good+. From 2010
Saint-Aubin, En Montceau
This is the first time Didier has bottled this for the domaine. Prior to this it has been sold to
négoce it was a very young vinyard, but it is now 15 years old.
Very calcareous; a bit like La Chatenière. South facing with good exposure.
Light golden aroma. Sweet on to the attack. Ripe, but lively. Nicely plump palate, which tightens
and has a whiff of chalk on the bright, light finish. Good to very good. From 2011
Saint-Aubin, Premier Cru, Vielles Vignes
Sur Gamay appellation. Various people in the village, notable Didier Larue have been petitioning
the INAO for the past decade to change the name of Sur Gamay to take the name of
neighbouring Sous Roche Dumay. Growers want this change because on the label it is too easily
confused with the variety.
This has a tighter more saline aroma with high citrus notes. It springs on to the palate. Good
weight of fruit on the middle palate; nicely taut, compact and coiled. Fruit-driven on the finish.
Very good+. From late 2010/11
Saint-Aubin, Les Cortons
This premier cru, which abuts En Remilly, can take the En Remilly label. We tasted them side by
side.
Orange blossom and mineral aroma. Bright onto the palate, rounded plump lemon middle with a
delicate light and quivering mineral finish. Very Good+. From 2010
88

*Saint-Aubin, En Remilly
This has a compact and intense aroma. This is more intense on the attack. Good energetic and
focused with some firm weight of fruit streamlined with stony colder minerality to a nicely
stretched and slightly tense finish. Particularly Good. From 2011
Saint-Aubin, Les Mugers-des-Dents-de Chien
5 parcels. Planted in 1946. New parcel in 2004. 28 barrels. It’s a big cuvée.
High toned aroma. It is very bright, pure and lifted. Very fresh with sweet lime-like freshness.
Lively and fruit-driven middle palate. Sweet mandarin fruit with svelte minerality entwined on the
end of the palate, where it has a silky sheen. Very Good to Particularly Good. From 2011
Puligny-Montrachet, Le Trezin
This takes much longer to ripen and is always at the end of the harvest. The last day.
Airy, high aroma. Straight, pure and well edged. Bright citrus fruit, lovely energy, light, but long
lemon finish. The acidity is seamless in the wine. A very discreet and flowing wine. Very
good++. From 2011
Puligny-Montrachet, Sous-le-Puits
Up in the Blagny area, next to Meursault with deeper top soil than Le Trezin and some stones.
This soil is also suited to reds as well.
Golden and deep on the attack with a rich middle palate, ample apricot fruit juicy, fuller-bodied
and a lovely sweet finish, woven with juicy sweet acidity. Very pure and good length. Particularly
good. From 2011
Puligny-Montrachet, La Garenne
Higher noted, lifted and airy. Tight and quivering and very floral. It pounces on the palate, tight,
zesty and sprightly. This has excellent vivacity and a keen, slicing finish, which is racy with
glimmering minerality. Lovely fruit coupled with shimmering minerality. Particularly good to fine.
From 2011/12
Didier has a website, in French and English www.larue-vins.com
Stockists
UK:
USA:
O W Loeb; Cave de Pyrennes
CAU wines; Vinifrance Import
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Domaine Guy Amiot & Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet
Unfortunately Thierry Amiot had just made sulphur additions to the 2008s. We tried what was
not too affected. The 2007s and 2006s were opened the day before.
*Bourgogne Rosé 2008
Pale and interesting. Light rose petal aroma. Delicate and petally on the nose. Light strawberry
fruit and a creamy texture. It is a gentle fragrant palate with a light, crisp, lifted finish. Lovely.
From 2010
Bourgogne Aligoté 2008
Old vines planted by great grandfather in 1935.
Quite tight, slight mineral on the nose. Light and bright on the entry. Quite a gentle, soft lemon
palate. Lightly fresh on the finish. A light and pleasant Aligoté. From 2010
Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire Chardonnay 2008
Zesty citrus attack and quite lively with firm acidity and lemon fruit. However it’s hard on the
finish, which may, or may not, be the SO2. From 2010
Bourgogne Chardonnay 2008
Rounded with ripe lemon fruit which is firm and juicy. It lifts up on the finish, which is decent and
fruit-driven. Pleasant to attractive. From 2010
Meursault, Vieilles Vignes 2007
Buttery aroma; nicely rounded palate, crisp acidity, juicy with crunchy, white pear fruit, Appealing
floral finish. Good+
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Macharelles 2007
Quite light and elegant on the attack. It has attractive breadth coupled with a firm core and cool
minerality. Nicely balanced and elegant Les Marcharelles. Score 16.5. From late 2010/11
The two vintages of ChampGains I tried were very good.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Champgains 2007
Lifted and floral aroma. Quite a lot of wood showing on the attack at the moment, which needs
time to integrate. Behind this there is sparkling minerality and bright acidity, which really comes
though on the lively finish. Score 17. From 2011
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Champgains 2006
Rich nutty, orange intense aroma. Apricot, nutty and spicy attack. Rounded, full with notes of
hazelnuts and some lovely fruit. Lots of complex, appealing character and the richness is offset
by good acidity in the middle palate and minerality on the finish. Score 17-17.5. From now
onwards
Chassagne-Montrachet, Vergers 2008
Not finished the MLF
Sweet, citrus aroma. Some rich viscosity on the attack. Juicy and ripe. Quite a broad Vergers,
which tightens and become more mineral and focused on the finish. Particularly Good. From
2011/12
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Chassagne-Montrachet, Vergers 2007
Sweet fruit, quite a lot of wood showing. The intensity of the fruit comes though on the finish,
which has intensity coupled with firm minerality and is nicely persistent. Score 16.5. From late
2010/2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Vergers 2006
Sweet hazelnut notes. Fragrant, floral palate with very honeyed, rounded and rich with juicy
acidity on the finish. Quite a powerful finish. Score 17. From now onwards.
The 2006 Chassagne here are rather good.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos St Jean 2008
It is more masculine, savoury, straight with an aniseed note with some fennel and quite compact.
It is more austere on the finish. Particularly good+. From 20011/12
Chassagne-Montrachet, Caillerets 2008
The MLf has just finished.
Pure lifted, upright aroma. Well defined, straight palate. This has vigour and a well tuned balance
of really quite ripe fruit. It is slightly exotic with more stony minerality. There is a density on the
middle palate. The finish is well sustained. Probably Fine. From 2011/12
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Demoiselles 2008
Intense floral aroma. Lightly spicy and very expressive. Juicy attack to a flowery, perfumed palate
with opulent fruit and a generous middle palate. It is underpinned with stony minerality, so while
it finishes on quite an exotic note it is coupled with cool mineral austerity. Fine. From 2012
Le Montrachet 2008
Full, dense and compact. This moves up quite a step in substance, volume and power. It has
coiled vigour and a long tightly layered finished. Fine+ to very Fine. From 2013
Négoce. Theirry buys this in juice. He would like to buy in must, but it is not possible
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Baudines 2008
They buy three barrels. They add this to the six that they already have. The domaine’s vines are
young 15-20 year old. The negoce is 45 years old.
This is bright, pure and high wire. Quivering, light top note. It’s perhaps a bit light on intensity,
but is very elegant, shimmering and saline on the finish. Very airy. Very good to particularly
good. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chaumées 2008
This is all bought in must. 6 barrels. They have no vines of their own. This is more intense. It is
pure, tight, keenly lined with succulent citrus fruit entwined with smooth minerality on the finish.
Particularly good+. From 2010
*Chassagne-Montrachet, La Maltroie 2008
They have only one barrel themselves. The domaine however is young vines, so they buy 6
barrels of must from 60 year old vines.
This is about half way though MLF. Deep aroma with rich orange fruit. The palate is succulent
with mandarin notes and very decent breadth and intensity. Good spicy firm character. Zesty
acidity, which will integrate more. It has a vigorous long finish. It’s a good négoce wine.
Particularly good++. From 2011/12
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Stockists
UK:
US:
O W Loeb; Bowes Wines, Genesis Wines.
Kermit Lynch.
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Domaine Bruno Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet
“It is a bit like 2007, but with more fruit and more texture. It’s more complete I think, but we
have the same direction as 2007 with good acidity,” remarks Bruno Colin, “but not too high. ”
“2008 is a vintage which reflects the terroir. They all are very different on the aroma and have
very different floral qualities. It is better than 2007 and different from 2006.”
“We had similar weather to 2007. A good spring followed by not such a good summer. We had
no hail in Chassagne. We had the north wind and good sun before harvest. It was sunny and not
too cloudy. We know that it is very good for us to have good weather before the harvest than at
any other time. We make the vintage in the 3 weeks before the harvest.
The grapes were perfect; in good health.” He started on the 24 th and finished about the 30 th . It
took 6-7 days. The grapes came in at 12.67 to 13.12. The malic and the tartaric are about the
same in proportion. The pHs were about 3.15 before MLF. Bruno has not analysed the final wine
yet.
The MLF are all finished here. They started in February and the first barrels finished in March.
The last in was in May. “It was normal for whites, more difficult for the reds.”
Bruno compares the 2007 with the four most recent vintages. “2004 was very fresh and very
mineral. It is a little like 2007 and 2008, while 2005 and 2006 are generous. They are at the limit
of too generous. 2006 is a good restaurant vintage because it makes good early drinking. It is a
little early to start the 2005s and you need to wait. For the 2007 you need to wait one or two
years, and then drink from 2-6 years. 2008 has the same quality as 2007, but with more fruit. It
is more complex and complete. It has more texture and maybe more elegance because of the
balance. We were lucky to make 2007 and 2008 when you consider the conditions.”
Bruno’s wines are very crisply defined and pure. I asked what was most significant in achieving
this. “I have good parcels,” he says simply. “Also I begin the fermentation in stainless steel with
temperature control. With my father we started this method 20 years ago. Half way though we
put the wine into barrels.”
The 1er cru have 25% to 30% new oak.
Crystalline wine with lovely precision.
*Bourgogne
1/3 in oak and 2/3 stainless steel. Saint Aubin and Santenay parcels. This is will be racked soon
and be bottled in September.
Lifted and aromatic. Bright, ripe and pure with good fruit in the middle and crisp edges. Lively
finish. Lovely. From late 2009/2010
Saint Aubin, Les Charmois
Slightly floral. Rounded and plump in the middle with fresh citrus fruit. It has juicy acidity, silky
smooth, but not at all heavy and there is a svelte finish. Delicious and very nicely balanced. Very
good to particularly good. From 2010
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*Chassagne-Montrachet
6 parcels
A full, curvy, orange-scented palate with juicy acidity to counter the ample fruit. Ripe, but with a
lovely, bright pure quality and a generous fruit-driven finish with a note of rich apricot. Top notch
village. From 2011
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Chaumées
The first again to be picked along with the Vergers. The maturity is often quickest in these
parcels.
White flowers on the nose. It is very precise, delicate and lifted. It dances lightly onto the palate.
A very pretty wine. It pirouettes with elegant fruit and bright acidity. There is delicacy and
intensity. This finish is persistent and very pure. Fine. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Vergers
This is tight gold on the aroma. Floral, but more petally. The palate is tight, channelled and
energetic. Lovely precision. A finely edged finish. A tight and intense wine. Particularly good to
Fine. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chenevottes
Darker floral profile. Quite scented and slight spicy. Soft on the front of the palate, broader in the
middle. Velvety, slightly opulent palate but not at all heavy. It has lovely fine acidity cutting
though. The finish is lively and lifted .Particularly Good. From 2010/11
Chassagne-Montrachet, La Maltroie
This is usually the last picked. The soil is quite rich here. Little stone but quite rich.
Darker and more brooding aroma to a compact and grippy palate. Savoury stony profile, broad
but tight and densely coiled. It has very good acidity. A very good balance and a vigorous long
finish. Fine. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Morgeots
This is an interesting parcel in Francemonts. The rows are 200m long and there are 3 soils. At
the beginning of the slope it is like Morgeots in general with richer soil. Then rising up the slope
there is more stone and at the top it is very calcareous. So there are three distinctly different
soils types.
This has more spice than the Maltroie and a rich florality. It has a satin attack and smooth lemon
fruit. It is focused to become tight on the finish where the steely minerality comes to the fore.
Fine. From 2011.
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Boudriotte
Here the soil is rich.
This has a high aroma, is petally and floral. It is zesty, tight and bright. Intense fruit underpins
the straight palate which is focused with bright minerality. It has a fine long line and pure finish
with ripe, but very precise, citrus characters. Fine+. From 2011. (The wine is more linear and
brightly mineral than the soil would suggest.)
Chassagne-Montrachet, Blanchot Dessus
This came from Bruno’s mother’s side of the family. This is the first year he has made it and the
vines are now 35 years old.
A rich aroma. Good substance, full, ripe and rounded. There is succulent generosity cut through
with juicy acidity. Dense wine with volume, intensity and smooth stone minerality on the long
finish. Fine. From 2011/12
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*Chassagne-Montrachet, En Remilly
This has a high chalky aroma. Very floral and very mineral. Straight, energetic and vibrantly
intense. Plenty of richness though with very well defined edges. Lovely precision. Fine++2011
*Puligny-Montrachet, La Truffière
This is high wired. It dances onto the palate, bright, zesty and mineral with some more exotic
floral notes as well. Lovely pure and mineral palate. It finishes very energetically on sherbet fruit,
crisp and intense. An elegant wine. Fine to fine+. From 2011
Stockists
UK: David Roberts; Richards Walford; The Wine Society; Gunson
USA: Robert Chadderdon; Diageo Château & Estate; Kermit Lynch.
95

Domaine Michel Colin-Déléger, Chassagne-Montrachet
Chassagne-Montrachet, En Remilly
This parcel is 20 years old, while Bruno’s is 55
This has the richness on the nose. The palate is zesty. Tight linear, pure and vibrant on the
finish. While the oak dominates the front of the palate, the terroir comes though on the finish.
Each year this gains in precision and depth of terroir on the finish. Particularly good to fine. From
2011.
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Demoiselles
Expressive mandarin, spice and blossom aroma. Smooth and generous fruit on the attack and on
to the rounded, middle palate. Gorgeous fruit, juicy and floral and zesty. It has richness with
smooth minerality, marvelous depth and intensity. The finish is vigorous and incredibly persistent.
A great deal of personality as well as complexity here. Very fine. From 2012/13
Chevalier-Montrachet
400 litres, one year old wood. Michel Colin-Déléger prefers larger barrels. This barrel can
accommodate the whole production.
Pure, cold and austere (particularly after the expressive Demoiselles). Tightly coiled and very
restrained. Firm acidity and taut, racy vigorous energy. Excellent stony, compact minerality. This
has a superb, vibrating long line and a finish which is deep and channelled. Very fine indeed.
From 2014
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Goedhuis
Robert Chadderdon ; Kermit Lynch.
96

Domaine Richard Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet
Richard Fontaine-Gagnard comments that after a very good spring they had low temperatures in
June and July. The maturity was therefore slow in July and August, but the grapes gained in
September. They started picking on the 20th September and he recalls that the weather was
good through harvest. Richard notes that there was less malic acidity than in the 2007s, so after
the MLF the wines are still fresh.
He considers it is a vintage which will age a long time because of the structure and the good
acidity, but remarks that it is a difficult time to really assess the vintage potential before the
racking as the wine is too unsettled.
Bourgogne Blanc
Bright, neat and expressive. It has a smoothly rounded entry with some succulent fruit in the
middle palate and balancing crisp freshness. It is quite pacy and has a touch of honey on the
finish. Lovely Bourgogne Blanc. From 2010.
*Chassagne-Montrachet
Soft, powdery, white flower aroma which is very inviting. Touch of honey on the smooth attack.
The palate is curvaceous, peachy and generous with a rounded mouth feel and fresh, sweet
acidity which sits neatly in the wine. There is a flowery edge and soft mineral to the finish, which
is well sustained for village wine. Very good. From late 2010
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Grande Montagne
This has a floral, lifted aroma with a touch of chalk. Tight pounce on the attack and a focused
mineral palate. Energetic, racy wine with a high top note. Well defined, lithe and streamlined
palate. It is very charming. Fine. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Chevenottes
This needs some air and is a bit reduced. Never-the-less the palate has breadth, good intensity,
an earthy richness and dark, slatey minerality. There is tension, grip and density to the fruit and
the acidity is firm. The finish is certainly powerful and decisive. It is a good Chevenottes. Fine+.
From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos Saint-Jean
Harvested on the same day as Clos de Murées. The soil is a little more calcareous and has less
clay than in the Clos de Murées.
This is ripe, but lifted. Sleek minerality is woven into the aroma. Smooth on the palate entry. It
has a slow pace, unfurling in a leisurely way to ripple gently across the palate to a persistent and
seductive finish. It has harmony and balance, but perhaps lacks a little vigour. Particularly Good
to Fine. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos de Murées
Richard Fontaine-Gagnard has a monopoly of 35 acres, which was acquired in 1995, but planted
35 years ago. The terroir is a little different from Saint-Jean. Comments Richard, “It is stonier
and has less wind.” The main difference is the shelter afforded by the surrounding houses. It
gets warmer in the afternoon and therefore riper.
The nose has more evident oak, yet the treatment is exactly the same as for the Clos Saint-Jean.
The attack is rich, ripe and golden. It has a rounded middle palate; full dense and compact. The
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texture is seductive and smooth, but freshness enlivens the fruit. Quite a grounded, measured
profile, which is reflected on the finish. Fine. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, La Maltroie
This is Ez Crets part. The grapes are very small in this parcel.
Appealing flowery aroma. The attack is ripe, but contained and it glides subtly and sleekly across
the palate. It gains weight and vigour to a decisive, assertive long finish. Slightly richer than the
previous two wines and perhaps also a little better defined. Fine. From 2011
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Vergers
More noticeable oak on this although it is the same as the Maltroie. This is pure and direct wine
with firmly chiselled edges. It is channelled, well defined and rather masculine. There is a latent
power here. A little reserved and strict with a quartzy minerality on the finish. Fine to fine+. From
2011/12
*Chassagne-Montrachet, La Romanée
This has a very lifted and elegant aroma. It is high toned and floral. It shimmers with bright
mineral sparks flecked in the fine fruit. It has a lively, dancing energy and pirouettes lightly
across the palate. The finish is a piano wire, steely, bright and taut. It has lovely precision, purity
and intensity. I like this. Fine++ From 2011
These following grand crus are not blockbusters, but rather reserved, lighter and elegant.
Criots-Batard-Montrachet
This has a touch of white flower on the aroma and is rather restrained. It glides elegantly onto
the palate. It is discreet, yet there is depth here. The finish has finely woven layers of mineral
and flowers and there is tension and focus. It’s not a big wine; rather it is quiet and unassuming,
but never-the-less intense. Fine+ From 2012
Batard-Montrachet
The Batard is more gregarious on the aroma; rich with a honeyed note. The entry is generous
and the middle palate is quite broad and smooth. It is dense, but not weighty, ripe but not fat.
There is a fit, muscular character and a vigorous finish. Fine to very fine. from 2013
Le Montrachet
This is discreet and refined. There is a honeyed sweetness to the attack and it glides elegantly
across the palate with a touch of fragrant honeysuckle. It is polished and sleek with depth to the
middle palate, which shows a delicious freshness and lively vigour. The finish is very long,
sophisticated and subtly perfumed. Very fine. From 2013
The following wines had not finished fermenting and still had some sugar. This is just a snapshot.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeots
This has breadth, lovely lemony fruit, a nicely rounded middle palate and a touch of smooth
minerality on the finish. Potentially fine. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, La Boudriotte
Richard remarks that if this were the lower part of Fairendes it would be more suitable for red
wines, but the soil here is better for white. This will go into bottle later than normal. It has some
reduction as well as sugar. However the structure looks good. It has strength, richness and
notable tension and grip. It has good vibration on the finish. Potentially Fine to fine+. From 2011
98

Chassagne-Montrachet, Cailleret
This has started and stopped fermentation. It has some lovely pear-like, white peach fruit
together with very estery, fermentation aromas. It is pure, very vibrant and there is clear lively
minerality, especially on the finish. Potentially Fine+ From 2011
Stockists
UK:
US:
John Armit Wines: Laytons Wines Merchants
Lauber Import
99

Domaine René Lamy-Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet
Sébastien Caillat reflected on the vintage.
“If there was a difference in the effect of the season between the whites in Chassagne-
Montrachet and Saint-Aubin it was that the St Aubin didn’t decline into over maturity, so quickly
as in Chassagne. For example the Pucelles is in a cool place and was harvested very late. In
Chassagne in Caillerets, the over maturity arrived quite quickly, so we had to rush to pick it.”
“Harvesting started in Chassagne on Wednesday 24 th and finished in Saint-Aubin on the 4 th
October. It was a good vintage for cool places, while 2007 wasn’t. In 2008 the cool places kept
the acidity, which was important as I saw some whites rapidly decline in acidity. However the
quality was more about when you picked…a few days made all the difference. In the reds we had
no rot, except in Beaune. With the red Chassagne and St Aubin there was not much work on the
sorting table, but for the whites it depended on the plant. It was the vigour of the plant that
made the big difference. We had the same problems in terms of rot on Caillerets, which is
situated on the best place on the slope, as the appellation of Platière, which is situated in deep
soils at the bottom. It was the same problem because the selction in both vinyards is vigorous.”
Botrytis/pourriture: “Rot gave a great deal of concentration. It was not bad rot, but with the rot
the concentration is mechanic. It is evaporation. This is not a problem if you react very quickly to
prevent the acidity decreasing. It is not a case of bad taste and aroma, but more about the
balance. The style however is not what we are looking for and lots of rot will have resulted in
lack of acidity. My personal taste, and that of the domaine, is for clear and straight Chardonnay.”
“There was concentration with acidity. In some Chassagne wines the global acidity went up but
also the pH also went up. (This is not the normal way. When acidity goes up the pH goes down).
For example the Caillerets TA on the must was 7g and the pH was over 3.3, yet for all the other
wines the TA at harvest was 5-6.70 and the pH 3.1-3.22. This is because of the dehydration
concentrating the TA, but somehow the power of the acidity changes, because of the rot. Also it
is not the same style of acidity. It is not as nervy and lively acidity,” muses Sébastien.
“The whites which had a good balance before harvest kept it after MLF, while the whites which
tended to decline in acidity were corrected. After the MLF they went on declining and may need
further correction.”
Ageablitly: “I am not sure there is a direct link with the acidity and ageing. You taste the 2003s
which are still clear. I think the ageing will mainly come from the vinification and the cork. (Given
the right work in the vineyard and there resulting good fruit). In the vinification, the more you
oxidize and fine them, the more prepared they are to age, as long as you have good cork.
However using this method you will lose a large part of the primary aromas. The more you try to
be careful and protect what you have, the more you will really need a good cork to protect the
wine. If I compare my father-in-law’s wine from 1991 and 1988. The 1991 is very concentrated
and not far from over-mature and yet they have aged very well. Compare this with a 1988, which
was a very nervy vintage, and they are also very good, still green in colour and fresh, but it is a
different style of wine.” When the must is treated more oxidatively the phenols drop out,
reducing its potential to oxidize later (making it more resilient) and with this some of the
potential aromas. “So the wine may have good ageing potential, but is not to the modern taste
which is for forward aromatics and immediate fruit even on a grand cru.”
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Sébastien speaks of washing the wine. I wondered what he meant. He means fining with casein.
“This pulls off the oxidized parts. It is washed. I see it a bit like a washing machine.”
Sébastien works reductively, but would like to experiment with more oxidative techniques. “If you
work reductively, it is difficult to obtain, but also to retain, the quality. You have to be very
careful with such things as dissolved oxygen in the bottle and of course the cork.” I have written
before about the trials Sebastien has made with cork and the wax seals they are now using on
the bottled to minimize oxygen ingress. “Sulphur,” he is sure “is not the way against oxidation.”
Sébastien explains that they press in an old vaslin press and press quite hard. “It was very
different from 1997 to 2003 when we used a pneumatic press, which was very delicate, but since
2004 I just use the pneumatic press for the large cuvées. In the small cuvées I want much more
extraction and phenols, but without bitterness.”
Style: “Comparing the wine at the same moment, the 2004 and 2006 have some similarities. It
may be more like 2004 at this stage. I am surprised at the straightness. It is rich but straight.
The richness of the vintage help to enrobe the acidity and so we do not have the firm acidity we
have in 2007.”
The 2008 has 20% new oak. It was zero percent last year on 2007. “I am not a fan of new oak. I
have to buy some, but do not use it every year.”
MLF: Some went through really early e.g. the village Chassagne, but Pot Bois is still not finished.
This tasting started with some lovely Saint-Aubin. Sebastien is a meticulous and thorough in his
approach.
*Saint-Aubin, Les Pucelles
Aromatic; floral and lightly lemon. Very juicy on the attack with an aromatic palate, juicy, sweet
acidity, tangerine fruit, slight spice and rich on the finish. Lovely village wine. From late 2010
It is a cool place, but with a southerly exposure. This has a pH of 3.07 in must and 3.20 in wine.
(Sébastien’s comments on the higher pHs are for Chassagne, not Saint-Aubin.)
*Saint-Aubin, Le Combe
Golden aroma. Quite rich on the attack, but fresh. Juicy with good firm, glossy minerality in the
middle of the wine. It has floral, mandarin fruit. The succulence is entwined with freshness on
the finish. It’s an accessible, fruity premier cru. Very good+. From late 2010/11
Saint-Aubin, Le Charmois
This has a nutty buttery note on the aroma. Fresh onto the palate, sherbety lemon. The ripeness
of the vintage comes through on the finish, which flags a bit. I don’t like this quite so much.
Slight bitter note. This was just one barrel and may have been the wood.
*St-Aubin, En Créot
This has a lifted, upright aroma. It is deeply and juicily orange and ripe. Quite opulent on the
finish which is lifted with an attractive freshness and acidity and a slight hint of chalky minerality.
Very good to Particularly Good. From 2010/11
Chassagne-Montrachet
Three parcels here. Sebastien very honestly tells me that one was declining in acidity, (Platière).
“It had high maturity and pH was increasing, so we picked it quickly and blended it with the two
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other parcels, which were alright. This way we got a good balance. This started its MLF started in
December and thus was immediately protected and kept its freshness.
Flowery aroma with a touch of honey, which is reflected on the palate. Quite expansive and soft.
It is juicy, spicy with a complexing note of aniseed and fennel. It sharpens up on the finish. This
has decent breadth and finishes with more focus. Good to very good. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Pot Bois
Spot of reduction. It has a thick richness in the mouth. It is full; yet deep rather than broad.
There is richness on the finish. This should gain in definition. Potentially Good+. From 2011
*Chassagne-Montrachet, premier cru
From Vergers, Fairendes and Maltroie.
Appetizing and inviting. Floral, aromatic and appealing. Spicy onto the palate, slightly exotic with
an open and expressive profile. It’s not heavy though and it has sufficient fresh, lime-like acidity,
which comes up from under the fruit, to enlivens the finish. The finsh is fairly long. A perfumed
and quite exotic wine. Particularly Good. From 2011.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos Saint-Jean
More restrained and upright after the last wine. It is relatively compact and rich with some glossy
muscularity. Assertive, but not especially long finish. The premier cru was better balanced and
fresher. Very good to particularly good. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, La Grande Montagne
This is very perfumed and exotic. Ripe, silky attack. The palate is a good blend of floral exoticism
and light, fine acidity and the end is quite delicate, but long enough and fresh. It has a lightness
and airness with the richness of the perfume. It is not what one might expect from La Grand
Montagne; not the high quivering minerality. It has the some of the intensity, certainly the airy
quality, but not the minerality. Nudging into Particularly Good. From 2011
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Morgeots
Bit of reduction on the nose. This has more density than the Clos St Jean and also good acidity.
It has darker fruit and more earthy minerality. The finish is actually much better than the Clos
Saint-Jean. Particularly good++. From 2011
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Caillerets
After the introduction I was not sure what to expect. It was a very pleasant surprise
Very seductive aroma. Glossy onto the front of the palate, juicy, rich, streamlined with purity,
finesses and a long and fine line on the finish. It is persistent and very fresh with cool, polished
minerality. A sleek and accomplished wine with lovely balance and harmony. Fine+. From
2011/12
*Le Montrachet
This is quite spicy and floral. Ripe, rich and glossy attack to a succulent, dense palate. Just
showing itself, but still pretty hidden. It is coiled with pent up vigour. The finish is slightly exotic
and powerfully long. It really shows itself on the finish which has vigour and really expands on
the end. Fabulous finish. Very fine. From 2012/14
Stockists
102

UK: Anthony Byrne Fine Wines
USA: Vinifrance Import.
www.lamypillot.fr
103

Domaine Marc Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet
Sabine Mollard, daughter of Bernard, is the winemaker. Her first vintage was in 2003. In the
winery she considers they now have a good compromise between modern and traditional
methods. She has perhaps brought a more systematic and technical approach to the traditional
methods which respect the terroir.
Sabine found the most difficult thing about the 2008 was deciding upon the best date for
harvesting. She was looking for good ripeness, without the risk of too much rot. She started on
the 25 th September. As a young vigneron, she feels she is still accumulating experience and
works very much in consultation with her father.
Some of these wines have gone through MLF and were racked the week I visited, others have
not.
Sabine is making some very good wines. Sarah Abbot tasted the wines last year for the Burgundy
Briefing. I have not tasted the wines for four vintages. It was a pleasure to visit again. I much
preferred the wines this time (with the exception of the sample of Bourgogne); although I would
say there is a bit too much obvious new oak on some of them.
Bourgogne
This sample was from just one barrel which had finished MLF. It comes from two parcels; one
quite low down near the main road is young vines and the others are old.
This shows quite a lot of wood on nose and palate and is really quite aggressive.
Rully
The buy the grapes for this.
Rounded with very lemony and pure fruit. The zesty acidity contains the richness making it fresh
and sherbety. The oak is perhaps a touch harsh on the very finish.
Chassagne-Montrachet
Several parcels. They have their own vines in Blanchot-Dessus and buy from 2 growers one with
a parcel very nearby.
Slightly golden, lemon aroma with a hint of the exotic. Juicy on the attack; ripe fruit with an edge
of pineapple. Broadish in the middle. Really firm acidity. Good fresh and direct finish. Good+.
From 2010/11
*Puligny-Montrachet
2 parcels which they buy and they work with the growers.
Creamy on the nose. Quite a lot of oak showing on the palate, although I believe the final wine
will be only 15%. Good glossy fruit, rich but straight, nicely edged and pure and direct on the
finish. Good to very good. From 2011
Saint-Aubin, Les Charmois
This has been racked and is house fruit.
Quite a toasty aroma. Nice fruit on the attack; juicy citrus, plump in the middle palate, bright
acidity and a very lively and fresh, zesty finish. Very good+. From late 2010/11
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chenevottes
The MLF went quickly. This will be ready for bottling soon.
104

Deep succulent aroma. Touch floral and honeyed. Sweet entry to the palate; ripe with opulent
fruit; generous, juicy and rich but not too heavy. Very creamy oak, full wine with a curvaceous
profile and a fruit driven finish. Nudging into particularly good. From late 2010/11
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Vergers
Floral, expressive and ripe aroma; slight edge of the tropical, but attractively so. Rich on the
attack, very rounded and full. A good weight of fruit to the middle palate, in which succulent
depth is complimented with good acidity. This has a decent thick, rich finish. It’s a rich and overt
Vergers. Particularly good+. From 2011/12
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Morgeots
Ez Crottes. It is a large appellation for the domaine. They also have red just below this. Not
racked.
Deep lemon aroma. Satin and succulent on the attack. Even across the palate. Strangely, it is
somewhat more elegant than the Vergers with the acidity nicely woven with the fruit. The finish
is svelte and well balanced. It is not as thick on the finish as Les Vergers or perhaps quite as
long. However it is a slightly more subtle wine. Particularly good. From 2011/12
*Chassagne-Montrachet, En Virondot
Spot of reduction. This is tight and compact, nicely focused and layered. More minerality woven
in the palate. There is a firm, shaley mineral on the finish which is streamlined and long. More
tension here and the finish is certainly longer than the Morgeots or the Vergers. A notch up in
quality. Fine. From 2012
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Caillerets
Not racked. This was picked on the 27/28 th for the harvest.
This is much more exotic on the aroma. Soft and silky on the attack. It grows in volume across
the palate, which is very silky with streamlined sweet acidity. A calm and even and harmonious
wine with a lovely long, flowing finish. Elegant. Fine to fine+. From 2011/12
Puligny-Montrachet, Referts
Sabine works these vines. So although they buy this in, she is in charge of the vines.
Very glossy deep lemon aroma with creamy oak. This profile continues to the palate. It is rich,
juicy and full. Slightly too much wood for my taste, but it does compliment the fruit. An opulent,
forward and generous wine with the minerality coming through after the fruit on the finish,
where it becomes streamlined with glossy minerality. Fine to fine+. from 2012
*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Pucelles
Not racked. This is domaine.
This is more battened down and a touch reduced. Quite reticent on the attack. This has a finer
palate. It is elegant. It lighter, but intense. It is more subtle, but also has more energy. It flows
effortlessly onto a long, rippling, scented, finish threaded with fine and polished minerality. Firmly
Fine+ from 2012
Bâtard-Montrachet
This has not finished the MLF; about half way though. This will have 50% oak on the final blend.
This is golden, but pure and lifted on the aroma. More oak evident on the attack and on the
palate than it will have as this is a new barrel, but it carries the oak. It is rich and profound. It
has lovely intense fruit and is very contained and focused. Excellent acidity. This is one of the
most appealing Bâtard-Montrachet’s I have tasted, at this moment because it is so streamlined.
However this has not finished its MLF and will gain weight and lose acidity. However potentially it
is fine to very fine. From 2013
105

Stockists
UK: John Armit Wines; A & B Vintners; Laytons Wine Merchants; Clarion Wine
USA: Robert Kracher; Ideal Wine
106

Domaine Michel Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet
“In 2008 you really see the terroir, remarks Tibot. “I think there is more richness, more material
and good equilibrium for the whites. Maybe the aroma is a little like 2006, but with more vivacity.
It was a little difficult during MLF which finished one month ago. The fermentation was short.
November to the end of December. The MLF started in February.”
We started picking on the 24 th September and finished on the 1 st or 2nd October. We finished
with Caillerets and La Romanée.
“I think you should drink the 2006 starting in the next 2 years. Keep the 2005. Now I am drinking
the 2004, I love them. The 2007 you have to wait for it is very closed now. Maybe you will be
able to drink the 2008 before the 2007. I think the 2007 will last longer.”
“2008 is a little like the 2002 because of the matter and the equilibrium is similar. Maybe the
2002 was more mature”
“I prefer the 2008 to 2007. This is because I like to drink the wine young. The 2007 was good
after the bottling. It’s a bit now closed and now. The acidity is very high.”
*Bourgogne
All from vines around the village.
Good firm aroma. Pounces on the palate, taut and vigorous. Good weight of fruit. Good matter
for Bourgogne. Bottled in August. From 2010
Chassagne-Montrachet
35% new wood.
Svelte golden aroma. Succulent on the first impression. Very well mannered. Flowery notes,
broad and very creamy vanilla. The wood shows rather, but the fruit is very succulent too. Very
good. Fresh on the finish. Harmonious. From 2007
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Caillerets
Spot of reduction. This is silky smooth and viscous .Again the wood shows rather. Quite nice
concentration of fruit and smooth stone minerality. This is sweet with the oak, but really quite
reserved and quite compact behind this. Particularly good. From 2012
*Chassagne-Montrachet, La Romanée
Delightfully floral, spicy and lifted. Slightly exotic white flowers. Streamlined palate, svelte,
rippling with higher citrus notes and mineral top notes. Lovely energy, tight and pure on the
flowing, long finish. Very elegant, but with richness and substance. Fine. From 2012
Chassagne-Montrachet, La Romanée 2007
Closed on the nose. Tight, pure and focused. This is very reserved. Straight palate. Very well
defined. Channelled along the tight finish. Score 18. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, La Romanée 2006
It is opening up now. There is good firm structure and depth of fruit with intense, firm finish.
Score 18.
107

*Chassagne-Montrachet, En Remilly
Bit of reduction. Lots of gas. The MLF finished 2 weeks ago. Fine, tight and pure line. It is very
intense. Straight, focused palate, which sharpens to a bright, shimmering mineral finish. Very
pure, lively and long. Fine. From 2011.
*Chassagne-Montrachet, En Remilly 2007
Bright, high, floral and tight. This has tension and the minerality shimmers on a high fine line.
Long and pure and vital to a fine and saline focused finish. Score 18.5 From 2011
*Chassagne-Montrachet, En Remilly 2006
Some orange blossom honeyed characters. Rich, perfumed palate, which is has a light glossy
sheen and is satin flowing and streamlined. It is very elegant. It contains the vintage well. The
richness and power evident on the finish. I prefer the 2007. Score 18. From now
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Farendes
The vines are next to René Lamy-Pillot on Les Champs Gain side.
Very floral with spicy aromatics. Quite expressive and exotic on the attack. Juicy, zesty with a
breadth in the middle palate and expansive palate. however it becomes more lifted and fresh and
slightly mineral on the finish. Particularly Good. From 2011
*Puligny-Montrachet, Les Pucelles
Very floral, orange blossom and appealing. Flows quietly onto the palate. It is gentle, yet
underpinned with glimmers of minerality, very pure, finely woven and discreet. A long, lingering
and floral finish. It is quite light, but very elegant and refined. Fine+ From 2011
Bâtard-Montrachet
More oak showing. Spicy, ripe and expressive. It is not a massively substantial Batard, but more
subtle. There is sleek muscularity through the palate. It is quite battened down. It has good
tension and controlled vigour. Fine to very fine. From 2011
Stockists
UK:
USA:
Averys; Bibendum; Raeburn Fine Wines; Richards Walford; The Wine Society; Raeburn
Fine Wines; Ellis of Richmond
Martine’s Wines Inc.; Novato, CA.
108

Domaine Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet
Michel remarks that it was, “a little difficult for the vintage. We had to delay the date of the
harvest, because of the lack of the sun.” However the fruit was very healthy. There was no hail
here. “We had normal plus for the yields.” He started the vintage on the 23 rd and ended on the
29 th .
There was high malic acidity and the MLF was very long. It is normally finished in March, but
many barrels are not finished in June. The MLF for the 2007 was also quite difficult and he had to
blend the slow MLF barrels with the finished ones to encourage the whole to go through.
“I think it is perhaps a little like 2006. It has less acidity than in 2006, but it is not yet in bottle.”
It was necessary to chaptalise some of the wines in 2008. They came in at potential alcohols
from 11.5%; 12.00% and 12.3% and he these he tweaks up. The Chevalier was 13.2%.
Matthew, Michel’s grandson is 25 and works with his father Denis and his grandfather. Matthew
joined the family team in 2005 after studying in Beaune. They have built a new winery below the
village equipped with stainless steel tanks and temperature control. There have been no changes
to the whites really, but much more so for the reds including a triage table and new barrels.
There were some wines here which tasted a little flat and oxidative. They will need tasting again.
It was rather disappointing in general, which is not my experience here before when I tasted the
2004 and 2005 vintages.
Chassagne-Montrachet
6 parcels making a total of 2 hectares of village land. This will be bottled in August and the blend
will have 25% new wood.
A slightly tired aroma. Quite a broad palate, full, quite nutty and a little flat with a suggestion of
light lemon fruit. However it picks up with some minerality at the end of the palate. A savoury
finish. From late 2010
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Champ-Gain
Quite a spicy aroma. Open, slightly tired palate with some minerality and the acidity comes
through on the finish. From 2010
Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos de La Maltroie
This has 3 growers here. Just one of the 27 barrels has finished the MLF
Some sweet fruit on the attack. Juicy, lemon citrus middle palate and zesty on the finish. It
shows some vitality. Good+. From 2010
Chassagne-Montrachet, Verger
The MLF has finished.
Lime-fresh aroma, nicely expressive. Sherbet on the attack. Decent fruit in the middle palate and
quite vibrant tight line. The acidity is very firm. Quite direct. Very good+. From 2010/11
Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos Saint-Jean
I was shown a sample from a one year old barrique which has finished MLF, but the finished
wine will have 60% new wood.
109

This has a levelled character with an edge of ripe pineapple. Slightly over ripe. Notes of hay and
honey and maybe a little lychee, but it is a little lean on depth of fruit, and at the moment, the
acidity is rather harsh on the finish. From 2010
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chaumées
The MLF has finished here 100%
80 year old vines. In the family since 1998.
This is much more lemon in colour. Chalky aroma. The fruit is fresh and citrus with some bright
mineral notes. It has a keen line, firm acidity and is more direct on the finish. Very Good+ From
2010
Bâtard-Montrachet
90 year old vines. Lots of millerandage.
Exotic aroma. Very expressive. It has full, rich, orange and spicy attack. Broad middle palate, fullbodied
with a touch of aniseed. Some minerality on the finish, where it focuses in and becomes
more compact. Longish finish. Particularly good to fine. From 2013/14.
Chevalier-Montrachet
50 year old vines.
This is slightly reduced on the aroma. It is much more promisingly retarded and battened down.
Good compact palate, much more austere, direct and channelled to a relatively persistent and
well edged finish. Fine. From 2013.
UK: O.W. Loeb; Berry Bros; Robert Rolls & Co.
USA: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wine Co.
Stockists
110

Domaine Paul Pillot et Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet
“The aromas are rich," remarks Thierry Pillot. "The maturity arrived more quickly than in 2007. It
is more like 2006 in that it is richer. However it is good to have 2008 after 2007 as it is more
accessible.”
“We started on a Monday and finished on the following Wednesday. I remember the warm
weekend, because we picked. The weekend was important. We waited and picked Champs Gain
on Sunday. We did not want to wait. We needed to pick very quickly or it would be possible to
get sur maturité. We left the Aligoté, which had reached 12.5 and went directly to the premier
cru. The pH was lower than in 2007. The 2007 was easier. We had good advice on the weather
forecast. In 2008 everyone thought we would pick the premier cru at 10% potential, yet it was
12.5 to 13%.
The alcoholic fermentation was very long, because of the low pH the yeast struggled. We had to
check it a lot. The natural yeast is nice, but you have to be careful not to lose the terroir. Every
year the same as we never use commercial yeast. It is slow and you have to take care with VA.”
“I think 2008 will get better and better. It will go into stainless steel for 4 months before bottling
in February. We started this in the 2006 vintage.”
The MLF finished in February. “It was a big surprise after the MLF. It was much richer than we
expected.”
The samples: Thierry was very apologetic. He was sleep deprived from the arrival of his baby
daughter Celeste, born just 3 weeks before. He had forgotten and had just racked and sulphured
the small first wines. The premier cru had not been racked.
Saint-Aubin, Les Pitangeret
This has vibrant, lime-like fruit and juicy, firm acidity. Tense. Just been racked and sulphured so
not at its best, but has promise. Good zesty line of the finish. Potentially Good++. From late
2010/2011
Saint-Aubin, Les Charmois
Bright and grapefruity. It is lively with firm sprightly acidity. A fruity palate with ripe citrus which
comes through on the finish. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Masures
Not racked. This is dense, compacted, tight, pure and driven. A good firm palate. Lovely acidity.
Good+. From late 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos Saint-Jean
Bit reduced. It is a sample from 3 or 4 barrels.
This is bright, citrus, pure and focused. Good breadth to the palate; very pure and channelled
and vigorous on the finish. Very to particularly good. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Champs Gain
Pure, focused and intense. This has an engaging vivacity, lively acidity and decent intensity with
complexing notes of marzipan and a touch of aniseed. A silky palate with a pure channelled
finish. Particularly good. From 2011
111

*Chassagne-Montrachet, Grand-Montagne
Pretty reduced on the nose but the palate has focus. Tight, high-toned line. Racy and mineral;
tense, firm acidity and on the finish a bright and piercing minerality. It quivers across the palate.
Particularly good+. From 2011
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Grandes Ruchottes
This was replanted in clones 1996 and the first vintage was 2000.
Crystallized citrus aroma with notes of white flowers. This has some gas. It has a succulent
middle palate, lightly rounded and underpinned by a savoury, stony minerality. Pure, strict and
more austere finish. I like this. Very good for young vines. Particularly good nudging into fine.
From 2011/12
*Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Caillerets
Depth and purity. Pounces on the attack. Layered palate with stony minerality, bright acidity,
depth and intensity. It is well contained and centered. Long and stony finish. It has a certain, and
likable, austerity. Nudging Fine. From 2011
*Chassagne-Montrachet, La Romanée
“Our vines are right at the top of the vineyard. It takes a long time to come to maturity, as it is
fresher up here. It is very steep. Those with vines at the bottom of the slope in La Romanée
picked their vines at the beginning of their harvesting. In 2008 the vines had very small grapes
with the millerandage, so we expected it to be earlier than usual, yet they were still late.”
Petally, pretty and pure aroma. Light, bright, zesty; it has a shimmering, tense high line. Tight
citrus fruit in a very streamlined, direct palate onto a lingering, pure and fine finish. Lovely
elegant La Romanée with excellent intensity. Top notch La Romanée. Fine+. From 2011/12
Stockists
UK: H & H Bancroft; Anthony Sarjeant; TheWine Treasury Ltd.
USA: Scott Levy Selections; Ideal Wine & Spirit Co. Inc.; Parliament Wine Company; William
Harrisson Import Inc., Margate wines and spirits
112

Domaine A et P de Villaine, Bouzeron
There was a storm brewing as we sat in the sunny garden in Bouzeron. Pierre de Benoist
remarks, “the 2008 was wonderful. It was not difficult; the opposite of 2007. 2007 took one
month. 2008 took just 12 days. My problem at the domaine is that I have three varietals and
three different maturities. It is usually the Pinot Noir which starts, then Chardonnay and then one
or two weeks later the Aligoté, because the skin is thicker than Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I like
Aligoté. It is so wild and unpredictable.”
“A vintage which might be like 2008, maybe 2006.”
The atmospheric pressure was high as we tasted the wines. Sun changed quickly to dark cloud
and thunder rumbled ominously. By the time we were finishing, lighting was striking the hills and
a short sharp shower hit us. As quickly, it then blew away.
*Bouzeron, Aligoté de Bouzeron
The MLF is about 80% Blend between one fudres and a stainless steel tank. Pierre says it has a
“A little mirabelle,” and yes there is a note of sweet mirabelle fruit.
Lifted and lemony aroma which wafts gently and brightly. Floral. Tight, pure and direct with
plenty of minerality. It is crisp and precise. It is straight onto the palate then pure and tight on
the finish. It is elegant. The acidity, although in part malic, is fresh but not at all aggressive. It is
balanced by naturally nice and ripe fruit. A serious Aligoté. From 2010/11
We tried the 2007 Aligoté de Bouzeron. It was very mineral with a keen, light fine line. The 2008
is broader with more depth and fruitiness on the finish, while the 2007 is quivering, fine and
saline.
Bouzeron, Aligoté de Bouzeron 2007
Bright with a note of fresh cucumber, lifted and wafting. This has more salty minerality. It is
nervous, tight, bright and pure.
“More and more,” remarks Pierre, “I think Chardonnay can be a little tired. You can get beautiful
rounded Aligoté for example at Lafarge, Ponsot and Roulot. Aligoté has a very good structure. If
you wait the mineral changes to petrol and fennel characters.” We tried an older vintage from
1989. Although it may have been tiring, it had lovely petrol bouquet.
“The personality of Chardonnay has been diluted.” Pierre sees Chardonnay, as not only
ubiquitous, but to be the cuckoo in the nest in Burgundy and would like Aligote’s potential to be
recognised. “I have two projects for the Aligoté…starting with a terroirist cell in the Chalonnaise.
I want to recruit one person from each village and create a small cell to think about the Côte
Chalonnaise and to promote the wines of Chalonnaise and to make us distinctive for the Côte
d’Or.”
Pierre doesn’t like to intervene with the wine, so he has stopped bâtonnage. This is partly
because he works with fudres. “They have natural micro-oxygenation, so we don’t need
bâtonnage to liberate the oxygen in the lees. We like to protect the wine with the natural CO2
and so we can avoid SO2.” He is not cavalier in his aversion to using SO2. If he had to I think he
would. “I think the best winemakers in the future will be the men who can adapt the winemaking
to the quality of the grapes. I don’t intervene unless I have it. If the wine become reduced I
would bâtonnage or aerate, but the basic philosophy is to leave the wine alone and not to
113

intervene. So I must pick beautiful grapes. I want them ripe with good balance of sugar and
acidity for the whites and, for the reds; I want the maturity of the stalks, phenolic maturity and
sugar.”
Bourgogne, Côte Chalonnaise, Les Clous
30% MLF foudres and barrels. Old wood, foudres and barrels. This is practically the same terroir
as the Aligoté, but is further down the slope.
There is a citrus minerality here too. Plump and fullish in the middle, but then it becomes more
direct and zesty. The malic acidity is quite pronounced at the moment. It has good vitality. Crisp
and tight the finish. Most attractive.
Red
Bourgogne, Côte Chalonnaise, La Fortune
30% MLF. “At the beginning I was worried about the quality, but now I am happy”
Floral aroma with high red notes. Pretty perfumed palate which is bright and juicy with
redcurrant fruit. There is some malic, but it has not made the tannins hard. They are light and
pretty. A light, elegant, fresh wine. Certainly attractive. “I do not like to extract a lot. I want
something fine and pure,” comments Pierre. From 2011
*Bourgogne, Côte Chalonnaise, La Digoine
30% MLF.
Darker red cherry blossom. More intense, leafier, probably partly the malic which is also
increasing the tannins. Tight, zesty, red fruits with a little more depth and intensity. Good pure
fruit on the finish. Straight and pure. Very attractive+ From 2012.
Mercurey, Les Montots
The INAO are in the process of assessing this village appellation to be raised to premier cru
status.
Blue estery aromas. Sweet, dark plum fruit, quite dense, fresh and a little more bullish and
robust on the palate with larger grained tannins. Very attractive. Pierre says “I am not trying to
change the traditional earthy flavours of Mercurey.”
Stockists
UK: Corney and Barrow; Seargent, Tenterden; Anthony Burne
US: Kermit Lynch
www.contact.de-villaine.com
114

Domaine Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Mâcon
“Better vision in the Mâcon than in Meursault as it is more finished,” remarks Dominic Lafon. “It
has bit more depth than 2007, but with a little more acidity. I think the 2008s will tighten up
after the racking and be less open then the 2007s. The fruit and the alcohol make them sweeter
and you don’t notice the acidity. (The pHs were 3.15 to 3.20 and some up to 3.4. The TAs are
more like 4.5.)
In the Mâcon they started harvesting on the 29th and finished on the 12th October. Milly-
Lamartine was picked at the end. Very healthy grapes, but lost 20% in volume as there was not
much juice. I think the concentration suits the Mâcon. It’s very beautiful.”
Mâcon
This was bottled at the end of May and is in stelvin and shipped. This sample was a few days old,
but holding up.
Aromatic. Ripe, rich pear fruit. It’s broad with plenty of fruit and good acidity. Quite tropical on
the finish with a lift of freshness. Simple and appealing. From now.
Mâcon Village
Lafon has leased seven more hectares in 2009 all in Vire Clessé, but he has some vineyards in
this area which he does not consider good enough for a Vire Clessé, but which would go into the
Macon Village. Next year there will be no straight Macon only a Macon Village, as the wines which
went into this are all now entitled to the higher status of appellation after a recent INAO
upgrade.
This is finished and is waiting to be bottled. Soft and juicy, plump middle palate. Nicely rounded
with a decent line of acidity and juicy apricot fruit. Creamy and then fresh. Certainly attractive.
Drink when it arrives.
*Mâcon, Milly-Lamartine
This is always in ovals and some puncheons. To be bottled end of August. Some had just
finished MLF. A zingy attack. Full, rounded and fruity with sherbet fruit in the middle palate;
slightly spicy and with bright acidity. Zesty on the finish, lifts up to a fresh and rather brightly
mineral finish. Very attractive indeed. From 2010
Mâcon Uchizy, Les Maranches
Very apricot and golden on the aroma. Rounded on the attack. Some weight to the middle
palate. Generous fruit, curvaceous shape and quite juicy on the finish. Forward and attractive.
From 2010
Mâcon Bussieres, Le Monsard
Normally Dominic uses ovals, but had to use puncheons as the quantity, due to low yields, was
so small.
Rich and full aroma. This is ripe, full and quite dense with somewhat exotic fruit and floral notes.
It is then quite strict on the finish, which has firm acidity and a touch of steely mineral. Quite
compact in structure. Good+. From 2010/11
Mâcon Chardonnay, Clos de Crochette
Fined a bit more than a week ago. To be bottled at the end of July.
115

Pure, lemony, straight and elegant with a zesty long line and some bright, light mineral on the
end. Good. From 2010
*Mâcon Milly-Lamartine, Clos du Four
This is bright, pure, with good intensity. It is rich, but quite tight and well channelled and has
some darker mineral intertwined. Ripe with more density and edge and a quite an assertive
finish. Good++ From 2010/11
Stockists
UK: Admans; Dmaine Direct; Justerini and Brooks; Lay and Wheeler; Fields, Morris & Verdin;
Tanners.
USA: Beaune Imports; Burgundy Wine Company; C’est Vin LLC; Chambers and Chambers;
Classic Wines Imports Inc.; Connoisseur Wines; Esquin Imports; Horizon Wines; Michael
Skurnik Wines; Wines Unlimmited.
France: Selection Becky Wasserman, France.
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