En primeur tasting - Burgundy Briefing
En primeur tasting - Burgundy Briefing
En primeur tasting - Burgundy Briefing
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Mazoyères-Chambertin<br />
This couldn’t be more different from the Charmes despite the proximity. Upright<br />
aroma, black, direct and stony. Stony on the palate too and a touch mineral, taut<br />
wine, deep and tightly grained, firm, masculine with rich fruit. Very well structured<br />
wine, architectural, with a very long and spicy finish. Fine to very fine. From 2012/14<br />
Mazis-Chambertin<br />
Dark blue fruit a touch of gunpowder. More generously fruity than the Mazoyères, but<br />
not as perfumed as the Charmes. Deep blueberry fruit carries right through to the<br />
back palate. The tannins are smooth, but more structural, not as velvety as Charmes.<br />
This wine has excellent intensity, backbone and pace and is rather more discreet and<br />
restrained then its predecessors. Very fine. From 2012<br />
Chambertin<br />
More than 85 year old vines. No destemming, whole bunch.<br />
Dense, black and inky aroma. Impenetrable palate, brooding, deeply concentrated,<br />
burly, solid tannins and compact middle with architectural framework and a seriously<br />
long finish. Firm 2012/14. Very fine to outstanding.<br />
Stockists<br />
UK: Lea & Sandeman; Tanners; Thorman Hunt.<br />
USA: Weygandt Metzler Importing Ltd.<br />
Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin<br />
Denis Mortet comments on the amount of work necessary in 2004 to open up the vine<br />
to avoid oidium. Unusually he had to use preventative treatments, because the risk<br />
was high. He points out he used no chaptalisation as the grapes reached 13-14<br />
potential alcohol naturally. He did a selection both in the vines and on the sorting<br />
table. The grapes are bigger than in 2001 and 2003, so in some parcels he did two<br />
green harvests, others not at all. Mortet describes it as a good to very good vintage,<br />
like 2001 but softer and better (phenolic) maturity than in 2001. “Very equilibrium<br />
with good acidity. Good maturity and good definition of the terroir.”<br />
Very accomplished in a modern, sleek style.<br />
Bourgogne<br />
Full fruity attack. Firm, slightly astringent tannins, bullish with lots of grip. A good<br />
Bourgogne, but not among my favourites. From 2007/8<br />
Marsannay, Les Longerois<br />
Smoky aroma. Very firm, austere structure, quite spicy and reasonably compact. Taut<br />
tannins, firm acidity, tense and vibrant with good structure and an assertive finish.<br />
Good+ Marsannay. From 2008<br />
Fixin
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