En primeur tasting - Burgundy Briefing

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Vosne-Romanée Very bright and upright, redcurrant and lively on the nose. The palate is energetic, racy with fine acidity. It is a linear and rather light wine, but has a subtle underpinning structure and a sweet, fruit driven finish. Very good. From 2007/8 Vosne-Romanée, <strong>En</strong> Orveaux Richer on the nose with more depth. It is lower toned than the straight village, but still bright. Medium body with fine, subtle and silky tannins. It delightfully clear and pure with a taut structure. A firm, but very refined wine. Particularly good to fine. From 2008/9 Vosne-Romanée, Les Reignots Darker aroma and slightly spicy. This is an elegantly structured wine. It has firm fine tannins and a stricter core, but the driving force is pure, lively fruit. It is a delightful wine with an almost floral edge. It’s tighter than the <strong>En</strong> Orveaux, less delicate with a more compact and complex palate. A pure and refined Les Reignots. Fine, maybe very fine. From 2010. Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Murgers Dark, mineral and black pepper on the nose. The attack is full and rich. The body is medium full – not as full as some Murgers, and has surprisingly fine tannins and a refined muscularity. Slight sappy, lively and mineral backbone. It finishes well. Fine. From 2010/12. Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots Rather an alluring nose of wild flowers and red fruit;, very perfumed. An upright, dignified wine with a taut, slightly mineral core, tight finely grained tannins and firm acidity. This has very good structure and a long finish. Lovely fruit too, dark red fruits and wild flowers again. Fine to very fine. From 2012 Vosne-Romanée, Les Malconsorts Slightly more depth on the nose - a richer base note. A more masculine profile with generosity on the front of the palate, breadth and weight in the middle. It has a rich and refined muscularity. Very long. Fine to very fine, but I prefer Les Suchots. From 2012 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Silky and elegant on the nose which follows though on the palate which flows like a river of silk. Wonderful texture. It is a very harmonious wine, very refined. The tannins are powdery fine, the fruit exceedingly pure. It’s feminine, complex and poised. Very fine. 12 years. Stockists UK: USA: A & B Vintners Ltd.; Berry Bros & Rudd; Haynes, FWW Wines (UK) Ltd.; Hanson & Clark; Lay & Wheeler; O.W. Loeb; Robert Rolls Fines Wines; Stone, Vine & Sun; DIVA, France. Selection Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet, France. Esquin Imports Inc.; Great Lakes Wine Co.; J & J Importers; Langdon Shieverick Inc.
Domaine Jacky Confuron-Cotétidot, Vosne-Romanée This family can trace their vinous roots in Vosne back to Louis X1V. Yves Confuron, son of Jacky, studied agronomy. And it was as an agronomist that he began work in 1996 at Domaine de Courcel in Pommard. At Domaine Confuron-Cotétidot Yves continues working in the manner of his father. They share the same philosophy he says. They have never used herbicides. They don’t use a table de tries, preferring to make all the selection in the vines. They continue to use a very old vertical press. The vats are made of wood. Yves encourages a long fermentation with temperature at a maximum of 28-32 degree. “I am sure you have better tannins at the end. It is the same as when you buy bread. If the yeast acts very quickly you lose a lot of aroma, the same as with white wine. Timing is important. If the fermentation is long you increase complexity and have sweeter tannins.” 25% of new wood is used. Yves is a fan of Bulgarian wood, which he find subtler than French. The 2004 malolactic was just beginning when I visited in November. Confuron considers that a late malolactic increases the complexity and you lose less colour. However, it’s more practical if it happens by September, not least because the wine is easier to assess when the trade arrives in November to taste. He bottles in May. Two winters in barrel are necessary, he says, for the tannin and the structure particularly as he prefers not to filter or fine. No chaptalization in 2004. For that matter Confuron points out that he added no acidity to 2003. He was very unusual in harvesting in later September in 2003. “When you lose all the acidity, you need better aroma and tannins for the structure,” is his explanation. Of this vintage he comments, “2004 has a big structure and is classic.” Bourgogne Pinot Noir The vines are on the far side of the route 74 and are on average 40 years old. Sweet fruit, grainy tannins, medium body, fresh acidity and fair density. Quite meaty. Pleasant. From 2006/7 Vosne-Romanée This comes from vines abutting Clos de Vougeots, if I understood correctly. Rich purple aromas, lifted and fairly intense. Sweet first impression, velvety, thick and medium bodied, good energy, ripe frit and quite chunky tannins. A firmly structured wine with a decent finish for village wine. Very attractive. From 2008 Nuits-Saint-George South facing old vines of 82 years. Smoky, black aroma with good intensity. Rich, peaty black fruit, very firm acidity, lively, firm and sturdy with upright tannins. Assertive spicy finish. This has more going on. Good. From 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin The family bought the vines in 1986, but they are very old, 80 years or more.
Page 1 and 2: The Burgundy Briefing news, views a
Page 3 and 4: November. Dugat-Py likes the long m
Page 5 and 6: This is a new wine for Mortet. The
Page 7 and 8: The strict structure is fleshed out
Page 9 and 10: Red Wines Morey-Saint-Denis Decent
Page 11 and 12: Domaine Des Lambrays, Morey-Saint-D
Page 13 and 14: years to show the terroir. Hence, s
Page 15 and 16: Chambolle-Musigny, Les Baudes Thinn
Page 17 and 18: A graceful set of wine. Freddy Mugn
Page 19 and 20: Bonnes Mares. “The red soil and t
Page 21: Echezeaux Rather exotic and lifted.
Page 25 and 26: Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées Sweet
Page 27 and 28: Perfumed with notes of anise. A coa
Page 29 and 30: Richebourg Very black and pure, tig
Page 31 and 32: vineyard was not replanted after th
Page 33 and 34: I rather liked the aroma. It’s re
Page 35 and 36: Much higher toned, lifted, red and
Page 37 and 38: A baroque wine. It has a sumptuous
Page 39 and 40: palate. Just beginning to come into
Page 41 and 42: Bourgogne A very sound Bourgogne, q
Page 43 and 44: This is more velvet and generously
Page 45 and 46: Thick and fruity aroma with more su
Page 47 and 48: The sample from the 35 year old vin
Page 49 and 50: On the subject of vintages. De Vile
Page 51 and 52: Côte de Beaune Villages Really att
Page 53: Dark and sootier and quietly broodi

En primeur tasting - Burgundy Briefing

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