Costume Jewelry Industry in Europe and China

Student Research Projects/Outputs No.062
Costume Jewelry Industry in
Europe and China
Vivianne Jiang
MBA 2010
China Europe International Business School
699, Hong feng Road
Pudong, Shanghai
People’s Republic of China

Costume Jewelry Industry in Europe and China
During my exchange in HEC Paris, I travelled to more than 10 countries in Europe,
talked to around 30 jewelry designers of distributors, and tried a lot to learn more
about this industry. Paris is one of the best places for designers, and you can find
many workshops or studios of jewelry designers in Montmartre and La Marais. What’s
more, you also can find vintage jewelry from designers of past 100 years in flea
market such as St. Ouen. Why there are so many designers’ brands in Europe and
how can they get a success? Whether this experience can be learned by Chinese
designers?
Fashion jewelry industry has gone through numerous alterations since the
commencing of this millennium and this is due to a lot of components affecting the
industry like a steep rise in raw material prices, changing consumer conventions and
infliction of a lot of regulations by the government. Europe has been witnessing a
steady increase in the demand of fashion jewelry especially in France, followed by
Italy. China is the biggest country supplying the European Union with fashion jewelry.
The jewelry industry can be named as a global industry in the real sense. Whereas,
the most important procedure is design that is mature and leading in Europe,
especially in France. The size of the global fashion jewelry industry was near about
200 billion US dollars by the end of the year 2010. There are many popular brands in
Europe, such as Swarovski, Les Néréides, Pilgrim, Dyrberg/Kern, etc.
Overview of Costume Jewelry Industry
Costume jewelry (also called trinkets, fashion jewelry, junk jewelry, fake jewelry, or
fallalery) is jewelry manufactured as ornamentation to complement a particular
fashionable costume or garment. Costume jewelry came into being in the 1930s as a
cheap, disposable accessory meant to be worn with a specific outfit. It was intended
to be fashionable for a short period of time, outdate itself, and then be repurchased to
fit with a new outfit or new fashion style. Its main use is in fashion, as opposed to
"real" (fine) jewelry which may be regarded primarily as collectibles, keepsakes, or
investments. Costume jewelry is made of less valuable materials including base
metals, glass, plastic, and synthetic stones; in place of more valuable materials such
as precious metals and gems.
Originally, costume or fashion jewelry was made of inexpensive simulated gemstones,
such as rhinestones or lucite, set in pewter, silver, nickel or brass. During the
depression years, rhinestones were even down-graded by some manufacturers to
meet the cost of production. An interesting phenomenon occurred during the World
War II era, when sterling silver was often incorporated into costume jewelry designs.
This was driven by primarily two factors: 1. The components used for base metal were
needed for war time production (i.e., military applications) and a ban was placed on

their use in the private sector. 2. Base metal was originally popular because it could
approximate platinum's color, sterling silver fulfilled the same function. This resulted in
a number of years during which sterling silver costume jewelry was produced and
some can still be found in today's vintage jewelry marketplace.
Modern costume jewelry incorporates a wide range of materials. High end crystals,
cubic zirconia simulated diamonds, and some semi-precious stones are used in place
of precious stones. Metals include gold- or silver-plated brass, and sometimes vermeil
or sterling silver. Lower-priced jewelry may still use gold plating over pewter, nickel or
other metals; items made in countries outside the United States may contain lead.
Some pieces incorporate plastic, acrylic, leather or wood.
History of this industry in Europe
Costume jewelry has been part of culture for almost 300 years. During the 18th
century cheap jewelry made with glass started getting made. After almost a century, in
the 19th century, costume jewelry made of semi precious material came into the
market. The use of semi precious material made the jewelry available in the hands of
the common people.
But the real golden era for the costume jewelry began in the middle of the 20th century.
The new middle class desired to own beautiful but affordable jewelry, and this desire
was realized by its perfect timing: it came during the machine-age and the industrial
revolution. All this made possible the production of carefully executed replicas of
beautiful and admired heirloom pieces.
As the class structure in America changed, so did measures of real wealth. Women in
all social stations, even the working-class woman, could own a small piece of
costume jewelry. The average town and country woman could acquire and wear a
considerable amount of this mass-produced jewelry that was both affordable and
stylish.
Many feel that the machine has spoilt the beauty of the hand-made costume jewelry;
the truth is that the machine has made fashion jewelry more affordable and has
enabled people to produce enough of this jewelry to fuel the interest of millions of
ladies from all around the world.
Costume jewelry was further made popular by various designers in the mid-20th
century. Some of the most remembered names in costume jewelry include both the
high and low priced brands: Crown Trifari, Dior, Chanel, Miriam Haskell, Monet,
Napier, Corocraft and Coventry.
A significant factor in the popularization of costume jewelry was the Hollywood movie.
The leading female stars of the 1940s and 1950s often wore and then endorsed the

pieces produced by a range of designers. If you admired a necklace worn by Bette
Davis in The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex, you could buy a copy from Joseff
of Hollywood, who made the original. Stars such as Vivien Leigh, Elizabeth Taylor and
Jane Russell appeared in adverts for the pieces and the availability of the collections
in shops such as Woolworth made it possible for ordinary women to own and wear
such jewelry.
Coco Chanel greatly popularized the use of faux jewelry in her years as a fashion
designer, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls. Kenneth Jay Lane
has since the 1960s been known for creating unique pieces for Jackie Onassis,
Elizabeth Taylor, Diana Vreeland, and Audrey Hepburn. He is probably best known for
his three-strand faux pearl necklace worn by Barbara Bush to her husband's inaugural
ball.
In many instances, high-end fashion jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status, and
increases in value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for
vintage fashion jewelry. The main collecting market is for 'signed pieces', that is
pieces which have the maker's mark, usually stamped on the reverse. Amongst the
most sought after are Miriam Haskell, Coro, Crown Trifari and Sphinx. However, there
is also demand for good quality 'unsigned' pieces, especially if they are of an unusual
design.
Designer brands in Europe
Alex Monroe
British jewellery designer Alex Monroe trained at Sir John Cass School Of Art in
London, and uses nature to inspire his whimsical, intricately beautiful jewellery. He
established his brand under his name in
1986, his core aspirations remain
unchanged: to make great quality,
wearable jewellery, which is originally
designed and well priced.
Nature has always been Alex’s greatest
inspiration. Whether from travels in
Pakistan, walks along the hedgerows of
Suffolk or even the Tuscan hills, his
designs always remain inherently
English. Alex always makes the original by hand in sterling silver, which gives his work
its distinctive signature of such exquisite detail. He uses his skills to craft jewellery that
is slightly quirky, sometimes cute, but always very feminine. The jewellery is both
pretty and humorous, but consistently wearable.
Japan has long been a important market for Alex Monroe, and they even have a

dedicated Japanese Alex Monroe site, but the appeal of Alex Monroe jewellery can be
seen all over the world. They have a strong following of fans in Australia and Germany
in particular.
In UK, there are now over 100 shops selling Alex Monroe jewellery, from high-end
boutiques in London to sweet little shops in the Orkney Islands, the jewellery has won
over fans young and old and become a firm favourite. Rather than compromise quality
and have the jewellery produced in a factory, everything is still hand made in Alex’s
London studios by skilled craftspeople.
In 2008 Alex was awarded the prestigious ‘Designer of the Year’ award at the UK
Jewellery Awards 2008, saying ‘‘His quality is perfect and his style is so consistent.’
Alex has also made the shortlist for this award in 2009 and 2010.
Alex Monroe:
‘I like people who like my jewellery. they are not slaves to fashion; they tend to be
more concerned about personality and craftsmanship. They care about quality and
they like things that are quirky and individual.’
Cecila Boccara
Cécile Boccara was born in Paris and lived in Marrakech
until 20 years old. When she got the diploma from the Trade
Union of the Haute Couture from Paris, she decided to
specialize in accessory and textile creations.
In the workshop, silk, feathers, threads and pastes turn to
Berber colors necklaces, to precious flowers ready to adorn
a neck, an ankle or a wrist, to dragonflies or to multicolors
birds to put on shoulders.
Regular assistant for high houses of the Haute Couture, Cécile Boccara makes lots of
pieces to order and spreads her collections in France and abroad.
Cecila’s workshop is located in Passage du Grand Cerf in Paris, which is very
feminine and beautiful.

TATABORELLO
TATABORELLO Officina Bijoux was founded in spring
2001 thanks to the intuition and entrepreneurial spirit of
a young designer, Federica Borello, better known as “Tata”, who
took up the challenging but exciting task of creating and leading a
new business in a field where personal creative talent is a critical
factor for success.
She started working from home, almost for fun, following the same
path taken by many other top-notch artisanal companies that today
represent the best of “made in Italy” products worldwide. The
company’s success went well beyond expectations.
Fresh and original, the designer's production was marked by an amazing creative
streak from the start. Collection after collection, this trait has increasingly become the
“signature” of the brand, making it a success on the international market.
Production is 100% hand-made in Italy by direct employees who are constantly led
and trained to maintain the highest-quality standards.
Today, Tataborello exports more than 50% of its products to European and
non-European markets, where the company’s Style, Quality and Service have
generated numerous loyal “top-customers”.
Designer brands in China
Wallace Chan

Wallace Chan gave his name to his Jewelry collection
in 2001. Wallace Chan combines his rich practical
knowledge of metallurgy and machinery with his
newly stimulated imagination. Wallace Chan’s jewelry
works are popular among collectors and available in selected venues in Europe,
Japan and Taiwan. In 2007, he has launched a new series of high-end jewelry
collection featuring titanium as a key element in an innovative way.So far, Wallace
Chan’s jewelry is mainly sold in auction houses including Christie’s and Sotheby’s.
His products are more like art instead of luxury products. He only provide hand-craft
jewelry and Haute Jewelry. The limited production capability and distribution channel
restrict its expansion.
Everard & Wang
Everard & Wang Jewelry blend Western and Oriental
aesthetics into a range of individual, elegant and
sensual handmade jewelry for women from all walks
of life worldwide. Our pieces are designed and
produced using predominantly pearls, semi-precious
stones, sterling silver, and gold plated sterling silver. Everard & Wang produce
bespoke pieces all at superior standards allowing us to individually choose the stones,
pearls, or metals used to ensure that each piece or set is unique.
Wang Lei, Who is the designer, is a native of Wuhan City China, Wang Lei has lived
studied and worked in Beijing from 1994. In Beijing Wang Lei studied with a particular
emphasis on dance including many of the ethnic minority dances. Upon graduation,
she worked with a performing arts company, touring extensively in China and
elsewhere until 2004.
In 2003, she became a partner in the first clothing and jewelry boutique store in the
now very trendy Hou Hai area of Beijing. This shop was widely known for its unique
collections, and individual style, and has been extensively featured in many Chinese
fashion and lifestyle magazines and TV programs. Wang Lei was the chief buyer and
became the creative driving force behind the unique style, character and individuality
that was characteristic of the boutique.
To fully satisfy her creative energies, Wang Lei decided that designing jewelry, already
a passion of hers', would become her true focus in life. She dedicated her time to
jewelry design, where she has excelled in creating truly beautiful, elegant, individual
jewelry.
Wang Lei has been designing, buying, and selling jewelry for many years before
becoming a founding partner and Creative Director of Everard & Wang.

Business in the future
Costume jewelry is considered a discrete category of fashion accessory, and as such
it displays many of the characteristics of a self-contained industry. Costume jewelry
manufacturers are located throughout the world, with a particular concentration in
parts of China and India, where entire city-wide and region-wide economies are
dominated by the trade of these goods. There has been considerable controversy in
the United States and elsewhere about the lack of regulations in the manufacture of
such jewelry—these range from human rights issues surrounding the treatment of
labor, to the use of manufacturing processes in which small, but potentially harmful,
amounts of toxic metals are added during production. In the United States a scandal
broke when it was discovered during testing that cheap costume jewelry from China
contained unsafe levels of the metal cadmium. The wider issues surrounding imports,
exports, trade laws, and globalization, also apply to the costume jewelry trade.
As part of the supply chain, wholesalers in the United States and other major nations
purchase costume jewelry from manufacturers and typically import or export it to
wholesale distributors and suppliers who deal directly with retailers. Wholesale
costume jewelry merchants would traditionally seek out new suppliers at trade shows.
As the internet has become increasingly important in global trade, however, this
model has been modified, as many retailers can now select from a large number of
wholesalers through the World Wide Web. Some of these sites also market directly to
consumers who can purchase costume jewelry at greatly reduced prices. Some of
these sites include fashion jewelry as a separate category, while some use this term in
favor of costume jewelry. The trend of jewelry-making at home by hobbyists for
personal enjoyment or for sale on sites like Etsy has resulted in the common practice
of buying wholesale costume jewelry in bulk and using it for parts.