TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats

and cleaning process.
• What if a cat does escape?
The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook
If you follow the procedures outlined here of using two dividers and double-checking
that the doors are locked after you close them, cats will not escape. But if for some
reason there’s a mishap and a cat does get out, the most important thing to remember is
never try to grab a feral with your bare hands. The cat will be very frightened and will
believe you’re trying to harm him. He’ll fight to break loose from your grip and, in a
split second, can inflict an injury serious enough to send you to the hospital for treatment.
Don’t try to throw a blanket over him and grab him that way, either. That’s just as
dangerous. What you will need to do is re-trap him.
If your holding space is in an enclosed interior, such as a basement or garage, the first
step to take happens before an escape – shut the door, if you can, and block any other
possible means of escape. Obviously you can’t do this if your holding space is outdoors
or in a large, wide open interior, which is all the more reason to be careful when feeding
and cleaning.
Assuming the escaped cat cannot get out of the holding space, there are a few ways to
re-trap them. One is the method described in Chapter 8 for hard-to-catch cats, entitled
“Lure into a closed space.” Briefly described, this technique involves removing all
places the cat can hide except one, and setting a trap there. If there are far too many
hiding spots in the holding space, such as in a crowded garage, this method can’t be used.
But if there are only a few spots, then figure out which one the cat is behind and leave
him there. Go remove all the other hiding places except for one and prepare the setup
described in Chapter 8 of a board leaning against a wall with a covered and set trap at one
end. Once the setup is complete, carefully flush the cat out of his current hiding spot by
gently reaching in with a broomstick or making a little noise nearby. He’ll run out of his
spot and behind the board. If he doesn’t go right into the trap, but stays behind the board,
direct his movement towards the trap by gently poking the broomstick into the space
behind the board. (Review the relevant section in Chapter 8 for the full procedure.)
If there’s a closet in the holding space, there’s another technique you can try. Set a
trap in the closet and then shut the closet door, leaving only enough space for the cat to
go in. Make sure the closet interior is dark, then make the rest of the holding space as
bright as possible. Remove or block off any other dark hiding places. Shoo the cat out
from wherever he’s hiding with a broom and stand back. His natural tendency will be to
run out of the brightness and into the dark closet and hopefully also into the trap.
If these methods don’t work or are impractical in the particular space, then simply set
a trap or two with bait, cover the sides of the traps with sheets (but not the rears) and wait
it out. It can take a few days before hunger drives the cat back in, though usually
overnight will do the trick.
Worst case scenario would involve asking a veterinarian or veterinary technician to
come and use a fast-acting sedative on the cat. This is possible only if the cat is holed up
somewhere where he can be easily reached. The technique should only be attempted by a
veterinary professional experienced in working with ferals.
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