TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats

The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook
the cats’ past routine. If they’re used to eating a certain type of food, continue with it.
Each change they have to make will add to their stress.
Before you transport the cats to the new site, have everything set up at your
destination. Inside the space where the cats will be confined, set up large playpens or
cages in a quiet area, preferably close to a spot where they can hide after they’re
eventually released. Typically, when they are released after the two to three week
confinement period, they will be frightened and need somewhere close by to hide for a
day or two while they adjust. So, for example, in a large barn, the cages could be placed
near bales of hay. Or in a garage, cardboard boxes with small openings for the cats could
be set up near the cages.
The playpens or cages should contain a carrier the cats can hide in, a litter box and
food bowls – see the Feral Cat Setup described in Chapter 11. The environment should
be temperate, neither too hot nor too cold. Avoid doing a relocation to an unheated space
during the severest months of winter – the cats can’t move around much or huddle
together, so the cold can pose a risk to their health. If you must do it during the cold
season, use small insulated shelters inside the cages that are stuffed with hay or straw
instead of carriers. Cover the cages with blankets.
No matter what the weather, the cats may try to escape, especially during the first few
days. Be certain the caretaker knows the procedures described in Chapter 11 for how to
handle feral cats in cages and demonstrate them live. The cats need fresh food and water
twice a day and clean litter, so the cage door will be opened often, giving them lots of
opportunities to make a run for it. In case of escape from the cage or playpen, have the
caretaker set out food and water and sprinkle used litter and old feces around the area.
Most likely an escaped cat inside a structure like a barn or stable will stay inside and hide
rather than seek the outdoors, especially if sufficient food is available close by.
Encourage the caretaker to talk to the cats and try to bond with them. They need to
adjust to a new voice or voices as well as everything else that’s new. If the cats form a
degree of trust and bond with the caretaker, the relocation process has a good chance of
success. Keeping their feeding times on a schedule is helpful, as is feeding wet food
during the period of confinement and for a few additional weeks after they’re released.
The wet food is consumed faster than the dry and helps habituate the cats to a new
routine. Gradually, a few weeks after the release, the wet food can be replaced or
supplemented with dry, if that’s preferable. At all times, water should be provided.
Three weeks of confinement is optimal. Keeping the cats confined for longer periods
is not recommended. The idea is to acclimate the cats to their new surroundings so they
won’t panic upon release. Once acclimation is accomplished, the stress of confinement is
unnecessary and can cause the cat to want to flee the area if carried on for too long.
Stay in touch with the new caretaker. You’ll want to know how the cats are doing and
be available to offer any help or advice you can based on your experience with them. If
at any time the relocation space becomes unsafe or unsuitable for the cats, make sure the
caretaker alerts you to the situation and knows you are willing to give support and
assistance. Whenever possible, have a backup plan – another site where the cats may go,
even temporarily – in case of unsolvable problems.
Remember to try to remove all evidence of feral life from the colony’s old location,
primarily any food sources. Even if construction or renovation in the area is imminent,
88