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TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats

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The <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong> <strong>TNR</strong> <strong>Handbook</strong><br />

One way to start to evaluate whether a cat is a former domestic is to observe his<br />

behavior before you trap him and to know the colony well. Is the cat in question a recent<br />

arrival, indicating a likelihood he was abandoned? Does he trust you right away or soon<br />

after he’s met you? There are friendly ferals who will rub up against your leg or allow<br />

you to pet them, but it usually takes a fair amount of time before they’ll trust you enough<br />

to let this happen. Domestic cats tend to be less wary than ferals and seek affection from<br />

humans much sooner. Does the cat remain separate from the rest of the cats, indicating<br />

he does not belong to their clan? No single factor is determinative, but in viewing the<br />

whole situation, you can start to get an accurate assessment.<br />

Another clue, although again only one of many factors to consider, is how the cat<br />

reacts once he’s in the trap and has calmed down a bit. If he rolls on his back, makes a<br />

lot of noise and generally seems to be relaxed or vying for your attention, that would be<br />

very unlike a feral. Feral cats tend to back away and hunch up at the end of the trap<br />

opposite to you. In addition, many feral cats don’t like to make eye contact with you.<br />

When they do look at your eyes, they don’t connect and instead appear as though they’re<br />

looking right through you, like you weren’t there. Another clue can come from slowly<br />

moving a long thin object through the side of the trap towards the cat, like a ruler or a<br />

pencil, and see how they react. If they hiss or lash out, then they would do the same to<br />

your hand if you tried to pet them.<br />

Veterinarians who are experienced with ferals often develop a good feel for<br />

distinguishing them from domestics, so ask their opinion as well. If there’s promise,<br />

transfer the cat into a cage, using the Feral Cat Setup described in Chapter 11, and try<br />

playing with the cat through the bars, using a string or Cat Dancer toy. If he never<br />

engages with you, that’s a sign pointing towards feral.<br />

Keep in mind at all times that there is no magic litmus test. Every cat is different and<br />

all these “signs” must be considered together to make a correct determination. The<br />

difficulty of distinguishing ferals from friendly domestics is another reason why you<br />

should never try to pick up an unknown cat and place him in a carrier or trap. If you are<br />

wrong about the nature of the cat, you could be seriously injured, so use a trap. This<br />

warning also applies to kittens, who even at five or six weeks of age have teeth sharp<br />

enough and jaws strong enough to do some damage.<br />

Feral kittens<br />

Age is the key factor in determining whether feral kittens can be quickly socialized.<br />

While there are occasional exceptions, kittens six to seven weeks of age are easily<br />

socialized, usually within a day or two if they receive a great deal of attention and<br />

handling. Seven to eight weeks of age is also normally a good age for quick taming,<br />

though it may take several days to a week. Above eight weeks, the degree of difficulty<br />

and uncertainty rises with each week of increasing age. Still, if a kitten is three months<br />

or less, the chances are good they can, with enough time and patience, be tamed to the<br />

point of becoming adoptable.<br />

Beyond three to four months old, the odds start to drop precipitously. It becomes<br />

more likely at this age range that if a kitten socializes, she will bond strongly to the<br />

person who tamed her, but will hide and be wary of others, making her harder to adopt.<br />

See “Socializing feral kittens” later in this chapter for ideas on how to convert a feral<br />

kitten to the domestic life.<br />

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