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CRETE TRAVEL GUIDE

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Crete Travel Guide<br />

6 Sardelles<br />

Sardines are often wrapped in vine leaves to seal<br />

in flavour and moisture, then grilled. Salted and pickled<br />

sardines are often served as meze.<br />

7 Xifias<br />

Swordfish keeps its flavour well when frozen, so is<br />

a favourite with restaurateurs.<br />

8 Skorpios<br />

The evil-looking scorpion fish is surprisingly tasty<br />

and essential in fish soup.<br />

9 Tonnos<br />

Tuna steaks are best savoured in spring and autumn,<br />

when tuna migrate through Cretan waters.<br />

10 Gopes<br />

Nondescript-looking, bony little fish that’s the<br />

cheapest on the menu, but delicious once the bones are<br />

removed.<br />

Tavernas<br />

Sterna tou Bloumofisi,<br />

Vamos<br />

Key part of a restored<br />

19th-century stone village.<br />

The taverna serves a wide<br />

menu of Cretan specialities,<br />

baked in wood-burning<br />

ovens, and is open for<br />

breakfast, lunch and dinner (see Sterna tou Bloumofisi,<br />

Vamos).<br />

2<br />

Ta Douliana, Douliana<br />

A typical village taverna, set in the centre of tiny<br />

Douliana. Its rickety wooden tables and chairs are on a<br />

terrace shaded by vines, and the menu focuses on hearty<br />

local cooking, such as arni avgolemono (lamb with lemon<br />

sauce).<br />

➤ Centre of Douliana, on road between Kalive and<br />

Vamos • Map E3 • €€<br />

3<br />

Kavouri, Limin Chersonisos Kavouri is one of<br />

the best places<br />

to eat in the Chersonisos resort area. The house<br />

speciality is tender lamb kleftiko , roasted slowly in a<br />

paper wrapping with garlic, lemon and herbs.<br />

➤ Archaiou Theatrou • Map L3 • Closed Nov–Apr • €€€<br />

4<br />

To Farangi, Agia Roumeli<br />

This family-run taverna is the best place to eat in<br />

Agia Roumeli (see Samaria Gorge) and serves sfakanies<br />

pites (pies topped with honey, a regional speciality),<br />

stuffed vegetables and vine leaves, grilled meat dishes<br />

and fish.<br />

➤ Centre of Agia Roumeli • Map C4 • Closed Oct–May<br />

• €€€<br />

traveldk.com<br />

1<br />

6<br />

5<br />

Zorbas, Siteia<br />

This big, old-fashioned<br />

taverna beside the harbour<br />

has not changed its<br />

traditional menu in decades.<br />

It serves meze as well as<br />

heartier meals, including<br />

mousakas and a range of<br />

grilled fish dishes (see<br />

Zorbas, Siteia).<br />

Taverna tou Zissi, Rethymno<br />

Zissi looks rather unprepossessing at first, housed<br />

in a drab concrete building. But inside, it serves some of<br />

the best food around. The charcoal-grilled lamb alone is<br />

worth a trip from Rethymno (see Taverna tou Zissi,<br />

Rethymno).<br />

7<br />

Marilena, Elounda<br />

Marilena’s menu concentrates on seafood, simply<br />

grilled and very fresh, and prices are not exorbitant by<br />

the standards of Elounda, which is generally the priciest<br />

place on Crete. Other Greek dishes have been adapted<br />

for foreign palates by using a little less oil (see Marilena,<br />

Elounda).<br />

8<br />

Vareladika, Irakleio<br />

A pleasant, stylish and reasonably priced eating<br />

place close to the Venetian harbour. Vareladika has a tiny<br />

outdoor terrace where you can sample the wide menu<br />

of Cretan specialities, with wine served in copper jugs<br />

from the barrel.<br />

➤ Moni Agarathou 13 • Map K3 • €€<br />

9<br />

Taverna Auoas, Agios<br />

Nikolaos<br />

Handily located close to the<br />

Archaeological Museum, this<br />

taverna serves a wide variety<br />

of well-prepared traditional<br />

Cretan dishes.<br />

➤ Paleologou 44 • Map N4 • Closed Nov–Apr • €€€<br />

10<br />

Itanos, Agios Nikolaos<br />

In a lane just off the main square, Itanos claims to<br />

be the resort’s only authentic taverna – a claim that looks<br />

increasingly shaky as tourism continues to grow.<br />

Neverthless, the taverna serves good, affordable Cretan<br />

meals and wine, and is always busy.<br />

➤ Plateia Venizelou • Map N4 • €€€<br />

Places to Eat<br />

1<br />

The Old Mill, Elounda<br />

The most luxurious restaurant in eastern Crete,<br />

situated in the Elounda Mare Hotel (see Elounda Mare<br />

Hotel, Elounda). The menu combines the best of Greece<br />

with international cuisine. Booking essential; dress code<br />

formal.<br />

38<br />

Places to Eat and Drink

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