CRETE TRAVEL GUIDE

Crete Travel Guide
still undeciphered Phaestos Disc, which was discovered
here, is on display in the Irakleio Archaeological Museum
(see Irakleio Archaeological Museum). Phaestos was
destroyed around 1450 BC by the cataclysm that also
laid low the rest of Crete’s Minoan palaces. Not usually
as crowded as the more famous Knosos, the site at
Phaestos has an impressive location on a hillside above
fertile farmland (see Phaestos).
3 Gortys
Toppled Roman
columns, a ruined Byzantine
basilica, post-Minoan
fortifications, and an agora,
acropolis and remains of
temples to Athena and
Apollo all hint at the past
glories of this large and little-visited archaeological site
close to Crete’s south coast. First settled in Minoan
times, it became one of the most important cities of
Doric Crete. It later allied itself with the Romans to
become an important provincial capital, and was one of
Crete’s most prosperous cities until it was sacked by
Arab invaders during the anarchic years of the 8th century
AD (see Gortys).
4 Irakleio
The modern capital of
Crete was badly damaged in
World War II, and few of its
old Venetian buildings
survived the reconstruction
of the city. However, its
Venetian fortress, harbour,
arsenal and city walls are still impressive. For a morning’s
itinerary see pages 82–3. The city’s main attraction is
the Irakleio Archaeological Museum (see Irakleio).
Café, Irakleio market
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Diktian Cave
According to ancient Greek myths, this mossy
cavern, filled with strange limestone formations, was
the birthplace of the greatest Olympian god, Zeus. Rhea,
Zeus’s mother, supposedly hid the young godling from
his father, Kronos, here. Bronze figurines and Minoan
double axes found in the cave are on show in the Irakleio
Archaeological Museum. The site is also often referred
to as the Idaian Cave.
➤ Map L5
6 Lasithi
The so-called “Plain of
Windmills” is a high plain of
fertile farmland surrounded
by bare grey limestone hills.
Its nickname is misleading,
though. Only a few rusting
metal derricks remain of the
famed white-sailed windmills that once dotted the
plateau in their hundreds. However, Lasithi is still worth
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a visit for the spectacular drive through the mountains
and the glimpses it offers of a traditional way of life.
➤ Map M4
Mt Idi
At 2,456 m (8,055 ft),
Mt Idi, which is also known
as Mt Ida and Mt Psiloritis,
is Crete’s highest mountain.
Only fit, experienced and
well-equipped mountain
walkers should try the
eighthour hike to its summit and back. However, it is
possible to drive as far as the Nida Plateau, 1,400 m
(4,600 ft) above sea level, from which there are
spectacular views.
➤ Map G–H4
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Kazantzakis Museum
Cretan author Nikos Kazantzakis (1883–1957) is best
known outside Greece for the novel Alexis Zorbas , which
is set in Crete during the early 20th century. The book
was filmed in 1964 as Zorba the Greek , starring Anthony
Quinn in the title role. Kazantzakis’ outspoken humanism
led the Orthodox church to regard him as a heretic. The
author was born in Mirtia, and a small museum in the
village (in the Kazantzakis family home) is crammed with
his manuscripts and diaries, film posters, photos and
other memorabilia.
➤ Map K4 • Mirtia village square, signposted •
9am–1pm, 4–8pm; Closed Thu • Adm
9
Agia Triada
Excavated by Italian archaeologists at the beginning
of the 20th century, Agia Triada is smaller than other
Minoan sites such as Knosos and Phaestos and was
probably an aristocratic villa or a royal summer palace.
Some of the finest Minoan pottery, including three carved
stone vases, was discovered here and is displayed in the
Irakleio Archaeological Museum. Agia Triada is only 3
km (2 miles) west of Phaestos, so can easily be visited
on the same day. Because Agia Triada receives fewer
vistors than the larger sites, you can explore its
honeycomb of stone corridors, stairs and courtyards at
your own pace.
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➤ Map G5 • 8:30am–3pm • Adm
10
Boutari Winery and Audio-Visual Show
At the Fantaxometochi Winery, south of Knosos
near Archanes village, one of Greece’s leading
winemakers has opened Crete’s newest purpose-built
visitor attraction. A state-of-the-art audio-visual show
celebrates the island – its landscapes, history and
traditional way of life. The show also highlights the
vineyards and grape varieties that produce some of the
Boutari family’s award-winning wines. You can sample
and buy Boutari red and white wines at the winery shop.
➤ Map K4 • 9am–6pm Mon–Sat; Closed Nov–Mar •
Adm
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Things to See