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194103-DesertMagazin.. - Desert Magazine of the Southwest

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pastime <strong>of</strong> bidding farewell to <strong>the</strong> old year. We tuned in snatches<br />

<strong>of</strong> it on <strong>the</strong> radio.<br />

But <strong>the</strong> arrival <strong>of</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r year means nothing to a desert<br />

that counts its age in thousands <strong>of</strong> centuries—and so we just<br />

went along with <strong>the</strong> desert and were sound asleep long before<br />

1941 arrived.<br />

Many roads lead across <strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> Borrego valley to <strong>the</strong><br />

parking place at <strong>the</strong> mouth <strong>of</strong> Palm canyon. But <strong>the</strong> place has<br />

a landmark that is visible for miles — and is an accurate<br />

guide for those in doubt as to which road to take.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> San Ysidro skyline directly above <strong>the</strong> canyon entrance,<br />

is <strong>the</strong> silhouette <strong>of</strong> "<strong>the</strong> old woman <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mountains." She<br />

lies on her back, her rugged pr<strong>of</strong>ile and full bosom toward <strong>the</strong><br />

skies. Sometimes <strong>the</strong> figure is called "<strong>the</strong> old man <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mountains."<br />

Since <strong>the</strong>re seems to be a disagreement as to <strong>the</strong> sex, <strong>the</strong><br />

Crickmers have compromised by referring to <strong>the</strong>ir rock-featured<br />

neighbor as "old-rain-in-<strong>the</strong>-face." You can take your choice,<br />

but anyway <strong>the</strong> canyon entrance is directly beneath <strong>the</strong> crown<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> head—to <strong>the</strong> south.<br />

The morning sun was just coming over <strong>the</strong> distant Chocolate<br />

range as I parked my car on <strong>the</strong> Borrego canyon bajada that<br />

New Year morning. It was a 30-minute hike up <strong>the</strong> trail to <strong>the</strong><br />

waterfall. There are 118 palms in that first group, counting only<br />

those trees more than six feet in height. Many young palms<br />

are growing along <strong>the</strong> stream, and under <strong>the</strong> protection <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

California state park commission <strong>the</strong>y probably will increase<br />

rapidly.<br />

Directly above <strong>the</strong> falls <strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> canyon is choked with<br />

huge boulders. The route is easily passable, however. Along <strong>the</strong><br />

first half mile above <strong>the</strong> waterfall I passed only two grown<br />

palms. Then I came to <strong>the</strong> most colorful section <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> entire<br />

canyon. It properly could be called Rainbow gorge. The canyon<br />

walls close in and <strong>the</strong> stream tumbles over a rocky cataract <strong>of</strong><br />

vari-colored schist rock. The strata occur in a hundred shades,<br />

ranging from creamy white through ochre and orange to dark<br />

brown, with layers <strong>of</strong> green and black. The artist and <strong>the</strong><br />

kodachrome fan will want to spend <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day right<br />

here. There are many palms along this sector <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon,<br />

some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m appearing to have <strong>the</strong>ir roots in solid rock. I<br />

counted 215 trees in this bright-hued sector.<br />

The upper canyon twists and turns, and it is never possible<br />

to see more than a quarter <strong>of</strong> a mile ahead. The palms are very<br />

clannish. They occur in groups with gaps <strong>of</strong> several hundred<br />

yards between each oasis. I counted six well-defined groupings.<br />

Four miles from <strong>the</strong> entrance, <strong>the</strong> canyon divides, <strong>the</strong> main<br />

stream <strong>of</strong> water coming down <strong>the</strong> right fork.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> fork, <strong>the</strong> elevation is perhaps 2500 feet, and juniper<br />

trees and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r shrubs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> upper Sonoran zone are growing<br />

here. The palm trees had become less plentiful and 1<br />

counted only one Washingtonia in <strong>the</strong> right fork <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon.<br />

After following it for some distance I climbed <strong>the</strong> ridge on<br />

<strong>the</strong> left and dropped down into <strong>the</strong> left fork where 18 more trees<br />

were added to my count.<br />

Thanks to <strong>the</strong> interest and funds supplied by a little group<br />

<strong>of</strong> public-minded men and women in <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> San Diego<br />

many years ago, approximately 200,000 acres <strong>of</strong> land in <strong>the</strong><br />

Borrego desert area have been set aside as a state park—and<br />

Borrego Palm canyon is assured for all future time against both<br />

wanton destruction and private exploitation.<br />

John W. Calvert, ranger in <strong>the</strong> service <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> California<br />

park commission, is on duty as custodian during <strong>the</strong> winter<br />

months. The park headquarters is at <strong>the</strong> entrance to Borrego<br />

Palm canyon. Excellent camp grounds have been provided<br />

for <strong>the</strong> public at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with ovens and ramadas<br />

constructed by CCC boys with native rock.<br />

There are many o<strong>the</strong>r palm canyons in Borrego state park,<br />

but <strong>the</strong> palms in <strong>the</strong> gorge marked by <strong>the</strong> sleeping figure <strong>of</strong><br />

"old-rain-in-<strong>the</strong>-face" are more accessible than any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />

Borrego desert has become famous for its wildflowers in<br />

seasons when <strong>the</strong> rain god has been generous with his moisture.<br />

This year <strong>the</strong> winter rains have been heavier than usual^<br />

and <strong>the</strong>re is promise that March and April will bring <strong>the</strong> most<br />

colorful display <strong>of</strong> ocotillo, verbenas, evening primrose, desert<br />

lily and scores <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r species, in many years.<br />

Yes, I counted all <strong>the</strong> palms—<strong>the</strong>re are 778 <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m. And<br />

now that <strong>the</strong>y have been counted, you can make your longplanned<br />

trip to this delightful canyon and enjoy its fragrance<br />

and beauty unperturbed by any worry as to whe<strong>the</strong>r or not <strong>the</strong>y<br />

have been properly mapped and recorded in my private scrapbook.<br />

MARCH, 1941 21

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