194103-DesertMagazin.. - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
194103-DesertMagazin.. - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
194103-DesertMagazin.. - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
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pastime <strong>of</strong> bidding farewell to <strong>the</strong> old year. We tuned in snatches<br />
<strong>of</strong> it on <strong>the</strong> radio.<br />
But <strong>the</strong> arrival <strong>of</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r year means nothing to a desert<br />
that counts its age in thousands <strong>of</strong> centuries—and so we just<br />
went along with <strong>the</strong> desert and were sound asleep long before<br />
1941 arrived.<br />
Many roads lead across <strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> Borrego valley to <strong>the</strong><br />
parking place at <strong>the</strong> mouth <strong>of</strong> Palm canyon. But <strong>the</strong> place has<br />
a landmark that is visible for miles — and is an accurate<br />
guide for those in doubt as to which road to take.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> San Ysidro skyline directly above <strong>the</strong> canyon entrance,<br />
is <strong>the</strong> silhouette <strong>of</strong> "<strong>the</strong> old woman <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mountains." She<br />
lies on her back, her rugged pr<strong>of</strong>ile and full bosom toward <strong>the</strong><br />
skies. Sometimes <strong>the</strong> figure is called "<strong>the</strong> old man <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mountains."<br />
Since <strong>the</strong>re seems to be a disagreement as to <strong>the</strong> sex, <strong>the</strong><br />
Crickmers have compromised by referring to <strong>the</strong>ir rock-featured<br />
neighbor as "old-rain-in-<strong>the</strong>-face." You can take your choice,<br />
but anyway <strong>the</strong> canyon entrance is directly beneath <strong>the</strong> crown<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> head—to <strong>the</strong> south.<br />
The morning sun was just coming over <strong>the</strong> distant Chocolate<br />
range as I parked my car on <strong>the</strong> Borrego canyon bajada that<br />
New Year morning. It was a 30-minute hike up <strong>the</strong> trail to <strong>the</strong><br />
waterfall. There are 118 palms in that first group, counting only<br />
those trees more than six feet in height. Many young palms<br />
are growing along <strong>the</strong> stream, and under <strong>the</strong> protection <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
California state park commission <strong>the</strong>y probably will increase<br />
rapidly.<br />
Directly above <strong>the</strong> falls <strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> canyon is choked with<br />
huge boulders. The route is easily passable, however. Along <strong>the</strong><br />
first half mile above <strong>the</strong> waterfall I passed only two grown<br />
palms. Then I came to <strong>the</strong> most colorful section <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> entire<br />
canyon. It properly could be called Rainbow gorge. The canyon<br />
walls close in and <strong>the</strong> stream tumbles over a rocky cataract <strong>of</strong><br />
vari-colored schist rock. The strata occur in a hundred shades,<br />
ranging from creamy white through ochre and orange to dark<br />
brown, with layers <strong>of</strong> green and black. The artist and <strong>the</strong><br />
kodachrome fan will want to spend <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day right<br />
here. There are many palms along this sector <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon,<br />
some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m appearing to have <strong>the</strong>ir roots in solid rock. I<br />
counted 215 trees in this bright-hued sector.<br />
The upper canyon twists and turns, and it is never possible<br />
to see more than a quarter <strong>of</strong> a mile ahead. The palms are very<br />
clannish. They occur in groups with gaps <strong>of</strong> several hundred<br />
yards between each oasis. I counted six well-defined groupings.<br />
Four miles from <strong>the</strong> entrance, <strong>the</strong> canyon divides, <strong>the</strong> main<br />
stream <strong>of</strong> water coming down <strong>the</strong> right fork.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> fork, <strong>the</strong> elevation is perhaps 2500 feet, and juniper<br />
trees and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r shrubs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> upper Sonoran zone are growing<br />
here. The palm trees had become less plentiful and 1<br />
counted only one Washingtonia in <strong>the</strong> right fork <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon.<br />
After following it for some distance I climbed <strong>the</strong> ridge on<br />
<strong>the</strong> left and dropped down into <strong>the</strong> left fork where 18 more trees<br />
were added to my count.<br />
Thanks to <strong>the</strong> interest and funds supplied by a little group<br />
<strong>of</strong> public-minded men and women in <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> San Diego<br />
many years ago, approximately 200,000 acres <strong>of</strong> land in <strong>the</strong><br />
Borrego desert area have been set aside as a state park—and<br />
Borrego Palm canyon is assured for all future time against both<br />
wanton destruction and private exploitation.<br />
John W. Calvert, ranger in <strong>the</strong> service <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> California<br />
park commission, is on duty as custodian during <strong>the</strong> winter<br />
months. The park headquarters is at <strong>the</strong> entrance to Borrego<br />
Palm canyon. Excellent camp grounds have been provided<br />
for <strong>the</strong> public at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with ovens and ramadas<br />
constructed by CCC boys with native rock.<br />
There are many o<strong>the</strong>r palm canyons in Borrego state park,<br />
but <strong>the</strong> palms in <strong>the</strong> gorge marked by <strong>the</strong> sleeping figure <strong>of</strong><br />
"old-rain-in-<strong>the</strong>-face" are more accessible than any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />
Borrego desert has become famous for its wildflowers in<br />
seasons when <strong>the</strong> rain god has been generous with his moisture.<br />
This year <strong>the</strong> winter rains have been heavier than usual^<br />
and <strong>the</strong>re is promise that March and April will bring <strong>the</strong> most<br />
colorful display <strong>of</strong> ocotillo, verbenas, evening primrose, desert<br />
lily and scores <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r species, in many years.<br />
Yes, I counted all <strong>the</strong> palms—<strong>the</strong>re are 778 <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m. And<br />
now that <strong>the</strong>y have been counted, you can make your longplanned<br />
trip to this delightful canyon and enjoy its fragrance<br />
and beauty unperturbed by any worry as to whe<strong>the</strong>r or not <strong>the</strong>y<br />
have been properly mapped and recorded in my private scrapbook.<br />
MARCH, 1941 21