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KlaIpEda - In Your Pocket

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44 palanga<br />

Places of interest<br />

Anaičiai Ethnographic<br />

Cemetery<br />

(Etnografinės<br />

Anaičių Kapinės).<br />

Overlooked entirely,<br />

even by the local<br />

tourist information<br />

people, this extraordinary<br />

collection of<br />

19th- and early 20thcentury<br />

graves in the<br />

tiny hamlet of Anaičiai<br />

is truly remarkable<br />

and should be visited<br />

by anyone with even a passing interest in philology.<br />

Although now part of Palanga, which was at the time<br />

within the Russian Empire, Anaičiai was originally on the<br />

Prussian side of the border, as the mind-boggling writing<br />

on some of the graves shows clearly enough. Among the<br />

more customary renditions of the German and Lithuanian<br />

inscriptions on the graves are a few that reflect not only<br />

the region’s mixed ethnic heritage but that also illustrate<br />

how the Lithuanian language was in effect cleansed at the<br />

start of the 20th century. The pictured gravestone is a<br />

classic example, featuring elements of the German, Lithuanian<br />

and Curonian languages with the addition of Polish<br />

spelling that predates the introduction of the modern<br />

Lithuanian alphabet. A few kilometres south of Palanga<br />

just past the small settlement of Nemirseta, there are no<br />

signposts to aid finding the place, making getting hold of a<br />

Briedis Palanga ir Šventoji map, available from any decent<br />

bookshop for less than 10Lt, essential if you don’t want<br />

to spend the day driving around in circles. The cemetery<br />

is on the left at the end of the first collection of buildings<br />

on the right-hand side of the dirt track.<br />

Sea Bridge (Jūros Tiltas) C-1. Originally built over<br />

100 years ago for unloading ocean-going tourists in<br />

Palanga, at over 400m long, the simple L-shaped wooden<br />

pier (for despite the name ‘tis not a bridge) at the far<br />

western end of Basanavičiaus remains much as it was<br />

during its original incarnation. A simple structure on which<br />

to promenade and with no facilities whatsoever, walking<br />

up and down the pier is all part of the experience, faintly<br />

echoing the formal parades filled with sexual tension that<br />

take place daily throughout the Balkans. Be sure to visit<br />

at least once as the sun is setting as is the norm during<br />

the holiday season.<br />

Parks & Gardens<br />

Birutė Park (Palangos Birutės Parkas) E-1, Vytauto<br />

15. Until recently known as the Botanical Park, this<br />

marvellous 100-hectare park was designed by the French<br />

horticulturalist and landscape gardener Edouard André (1840-<br />

1911) who spent three summers here designing it with his<br />

son at the end of the 19th century. Originally containing an<br />

estimated 500 native and foreign species, the current park<br />

boasts considerably more including pine, fir and elder trees<br />

plus over 600 varieties of plant including 24 considered to<br />

be endangered. The park, which is the perfect place to stroll<br />

or cycle, also contains several statues, ponds full of ducks<br />

and swans and a small zoo. The beach next to the park was<br />

granted Blue Flag status in 2004.<br />

Sculpture Park (Skulptūrų Parkas) C-6. Close<br />

to where Vytauto meets J. Simpsono, the often sadly<br />

overlooked little park packed with 28 contemporary<br />

statues representing several different styles from some<br />

of the top names in Lithuanian sculpture as well as a few<br />

pieces made by artists from Armenia, Estonia, Latvia and<br />

Ukraine was first opened in 1982. Overhauled in 2007<br />

to celebrate its 25th anniversary, this quiet and cultured<br />

haven is the perfect place to escape to if you’re sick and<br />

tired of getting your ankles nipped by tipsy proletariats on<br />

bicycles made for four.<br />

Sport, Leisure & Culture<br />

Visiting Palanga isn’t just about chasing members of<br />

the opposite sex girls and comparing hangovers. Other<br />

treats on offer include everything from bowling and billiards<br />

to a visit to the theatre to exploring the own on a<br />

pair of rollerskates. Find it all and more here.<br />

Bicycles etc.<br />

If you haven’t brought your own set of self-propelled<br />

wheels to Palanga, fear not, just about every hotel and<br />

street corner during the summer season comes with the<br />

option to rent something from rollerblades to bicycles<br />

for anything from an hour to as long as you plan to stay.<br />

Prices are fairly low, and, if you want to get the most of<br />

the area without resorting to an internal combustion<br />

engine, well worth the bother. A passport or other form<br />

of ID that includes a photograph is essential when renting<br />

any of the above.<br />

Cinemas<br />

Naglis D-2, Vytauto 82, tel. (+370) 460 575 75/<br />

(+370) 698 244 22, www.lietuvoskinas.lt. A lovely<br />

old building given over to the age-old pursuit of screening<br />

films for your holiday pleasure, as well as the usual<br />

Hollywood films on offer Naglis occasionally forgets itself<br />

and screens underground, arthouse and documentary<br />

work as well. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 8 - 16Lt. J<br />

Go-karting<br />

Kartų Nuoma Kretingos 56a, tel. (+370) 686<br />

211 30, www.kartunuoma.lt. Outdoor fun in petrolpropelled<br />

go-karts for a decent price, this long established<br />

track also organises weekly competitions with<br />

handsome prizes. They also have a dirt track for larger<br />

vehicles with cages which under certain circumstances<br />

can be taken into the nearby forest. See the website for<br />

more information. Over-12s only. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00<br />

(March - October). Also by appointment.<br />

Tennis<br />

Teniso Aikštynas Gedimino 7, tel. (+370) 698<br />

230 21, www.manotenisas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.<br />

Theatres<br />

Palanga Summer Theatre (Palangos Vasaros<br />

Estrada) D-2, Vytauto 43. Escape the rabble and<br />

indulge in some quality opera, ballet and classical<br />

music concerts as well as a few more popular music<br />

performances during the summer. Palanga’s claim to<br />

theatrical fame lies in the fact that it was in this town<br />

in 1899 that the play Amerika Pirtyje (America in the<br />

Bathhouse), was performed, the first play ever given in<br />

the Lithuanian language.<br />

Klaipėda <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> klaipeda.inyourpocket.com<br />

Public transport<br />

Klaipėda’s relatively small centre makes walking from<br />

place to place a good option, with large city-owned buses<br />

and private minibuses providing help when you need to get<br />

from one side of the city to the other. Buses Tickets on<br />

city-owned buses currently cost 2Lt from kiosks or 2.40Lt<br />

if bought directly from the driver. All city-owned buses<br />

require everybody to board through the front door only.<br />

The solitary machine for validating tickets can be found<br />

next to the driver. Probably the most useful bus for visitors<br />

is the N°8 which runs from the bus and train stations down<br />

through the middle of the city and south to the suburbs via<br />

the massive Akropolis shopping centre. The bus’ popularity<br />

makes it a prime target for pickpockets who make a<br />

good living from lackadaisical travellers. Don’t leave small<br />

valuable items in pockets or open bags. A new fleet of<br />

grey, green and orange city-owned buses has recently<br />

been introduced, which unlike any other public transport<br />

in the country has manually operated doors for getting<br />

off. Push the small buttons on the hand rails to open the<br />

doors. The flash-looking screens at many bus stops are<br />

as good as useless as they show the times of the buses<br />

according to the timetable, not where they actually are<br />

on their routes. Minibuses Klaipėda’s superb minibus<br />

(maršrutinis taksi) fleet runs around the clock and puts<br />

those in Vilnius and Kaunas to shame. Flag one down anywhere<br />

in the street and tell the driver when you want him to<br />

stop. Tickets cost 2.50Lt between 06:00 and 23:00, and<br />

3.45Lt at all other times.<br />

Buses<br />

Bus Station O-2, Butkų Juzės 9, tel. (+370) 46 41 15<br />

47. Q Ticket office open 03:30 - 19:30. J<br />

Trains<br />

Train Station (Geležinkelio Stotis) O-1, Priestočio<br />

1, tel. (+370) 46 31 36 77, www.litrail.lt. Catching a<br />

train in Klaipėda is about as interesting as watching grass<br />

grow. Once you’ve bought your ticket all that’s left to do<br />

is to sit and wait. The ticket office on the far left accepts<br />

credit cards, which is about as sophisticated as the train<br />

station gets. Ignore the drinks machine and visit the shop<br />

next door or the bar underneath it. Q Ticket office open<br />

06:10 - 19:00. J<br />

Taxis<br />

Taxis in Lithuania are considerably cheaper if called in<br />

advance rather than grabbed in the street, although<br />

you’re essentially at the mercy of the driver once you’ve<br />

shut the door. Stories often filter through on the subject<br />

of the country’s disreputable taxi drivers, who tend to<br />

congregate in Vilnius. Experiences with taxi drivers in<br />

Klaipėda have been by and large positive. Make sure the<br />

meter’s running before you set off.<br />

Company Tel. Rate/km*<br />

1.50Lt<br />

Autopunktas (+370) 46 31 12 11<br />

Taksoma (+370) 46 34 33 33 1.80Lt<br />

Vyjuvis (+370) 46 34 53 45 1.50Lt<br />

* Prices listed are for standard daytime/evening journeys<br />

klaipeda.inyourpocket.com<br />

GettinG around<br />

Train schedule<br />

From Klaipėda To Klaipėda<br />

Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.<br />

06:50 08:50 ŠIAULIAI 06:35 09:25<br />

08:15 11:12 ŠIAULIAI 09:22 11:22<br />

11:50 13:46 ŠIAULIAI 12:23 14:40<br />

15:05 17:49 ŠIAULIAI 15:43 18:31<br />

17:05 19:06 ŠIAULIAI 20:17 22:17<br />

06:50 11:34 VILNIUS 06:45 11:22<br />

11:50 16:29 VILNIUS 09:41 14:40<br />

17:05 21:54 VILNIUS 17:40 22:17<br />

Correct at the time of going to press and subject to<br />

change during the lifetime of this guide. More information<br />

at www.litrail.lt<br />

Car rental<br />

Most major international car rental companies can be<br />

found in Klaipėda. All types of vehicle are represented,<br />

with many companies also offering chauffeur services.<br />

Most major driving international licences are accepted.<br />

Avis N-6, Žvejų<br />

19, tel. (+370)<br />

46 31 11 11,<br />

klaipeda@avis.<br />

lt, www.avis.lt. Almost exclusively high quality cars<br />

under six months old, available with or without a driver.<br />

Contact them for more. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun<br />

09:00 - 16:00. J<br />

Budget K-7, Šilutės 32 (Volvo&Renault building), tel.<br />

(+370) 5 230 67 08 (24 hrs), budget@budget.lt, www.<br />

budget.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Local bus schedule<br />

Kaunas 05:15, 06:10, 06:45, 07:05, 08:30, 11:10,<br />

11:50, 13:50, 14:15, 15:35, 17:00, 17:55, 18:20,<br />

19:25 1 .<br />

Nida/Juodkrantė 10:55 2 , 11:15.<br />

Palanga 09:15, 11:00, 12:25, 12:55, 13:00, 13:25,<br />

14:00, 15:05, 15:30, 17:10, 17:50, 18:30, 18:55, 20:35,<br />

21:10 1, 22:35.<br />

Palanga Airport 12:25, 12:55, 15:20.<br />

Šiauliai 06:55 3 , 08:003 , 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 16:002 ,<br />

17:10.<br />

Vilnius 04:104 , 05:40, 06:10, 08:00, 10:00, 10:45,<br />

12:103 , 13:05, 13:50, 15:153 , 16:30, 17:102 , 17:45,<br />

19:25.<br />

1 2 3 - Fri, Sun, - Fri, Sat, Sun, – from September 1 till June 1<br />

4 – Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat<br />

Valid until 01-01-2013.<br />

Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to<br />

press and subject to change during the lifetime of this<br />

guide. The website at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the<br />

best resource for up-to-date, accurate information about<br />

travelling by bus in Lithuania.<br />

June 2012 - May 2013<br />

45

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