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ZURICH - In Your Pocket

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20 QUICK PICKS<br />

Zurich at a glance<br />

Eat Drink Do<br />

Local For fresh tapas and no-nonsense<br />

Spanish charm head<br />

to the Bodega Espanola (p.<br />

30), an institution in Niederdorf.<br />

Chose from the tapas<br />

on display and take a seat on<br />

one of the large tables - just<br />

as locals famous and less so<br />

have done for decades.<br />

On the cheap For cheap, good food, head to<br />

Lily’s at Langstrasse (p. 25):<br />

the pan-Asian menu is full of<br />

tasty and very reasonably<br />

priced food and the service<br />

is quick. Perfect to start off<br />

your night in the Langstrasse<br />

district.<br />

Lads For generous portions of solid<br />

Swiss food, particularly meat,<br />

at very decent prices, head<br />

for Rheinfelder Bierhalle (p.<br />

32) in Niederdorf: kidneys,<br />

liver, cordon bleu or schnitzel<br />

- they have it all.<br />

For couples If you’re looking for a nice<br />

place for a tête-à-tête, the<br />

Mère Catherine (p. 27) has<br />

the right atmosphere. And a<br />

very pleasing French-inspired<br />

menu as well. The cheese<br />

platter is recommended.<br />

High end Brasserie Lipp (p. 27) could<br />

rival many a Parisian brasserie,<br />

serving standards like<br />

mussels with french fries or<br />

oysters. For an after-dinner<br />

cocktail, take the elevator up<br />

to the Jules Verne panorama<br />

bar with a stunning view over<br />

the city.<br />

Unexpected The restaurant Clouds (p.<br />

29) on the top of Zurich’s –<br />

nay, Switzerland’s! – tallest<br />

building is definitely worth a<br />

visit, for the view as well as<br />

for the food. And how high up<br />

are we here? A mere 126m<br />

– a giant for Zurich, a dwarf<br />

if you’re familiar with other<br />

urban centres.<br />

Club Gonzo (p. 38) is one of<br />

Zurich's most happening underground<br />

hangouts. This small rock<br />

and pop club in a cellar is worth<br />

queuing for. A dance floor, a bar<br />

and a constantly overcrowded<br />

smokers’ room are ready for<br />

some serious rock’n’roll with you.<br />

Gentlemen, start your engines!<br />

For really cheap drinks, go to<br />

BQM (Leonhardstrasse 34, F-2),<br />

a student's bar situated in the<br />

main building of the Swiss Federal<br />

<strong>In</strong>stitute of Technology ETH (just a<br />

5-minute walk from Central). With<br />

beer at 3.60Sfr and cocktails at<br />

9.40Sfr this is definitely one of the<br />

cheapest places in town (closed<br />

on weekends).<br />

All the important sports events<br />

on big screen, pub food, many<br />

different beers on tap and a very<br />

international crowd (and yes, not<br />

just lads but ladies too!) - you'll<br />

find it all at the Oliver Twist pub<br />

(see p. 37).<br />

The easy bar with the difficult<br />

name – Schmuklerski (p. 35) is<br />

a nice place for good coffee and<br />

good conversation with a large<br />

bar menu if the talking makes you<br />

hungry. Of course, you can also<br />

come in the evening and there’s<br />

a restaurant too.<br />

The Sein bar (p. 36) close to<br />

Bahnhofstrasse is a stylish bar<br />

with a well assorted wine menu<br />

and a wonderful selection of unconventional<br />

tapas – for instance<br />

sturgeon carpaccio or mince veal<br />

with romanesco broccoli.<br />

How did that one go? <strong>In</strong> Switzerland<br />

they make fizzy drinks from<br />

milk. But wait, it's no joke. Rivella<br />

is the Swiss answer to Coca Cola,<br />

you can get it at most shops and<br />

restaurants and actually its not<br />

that bad. Made of milk serum,<br />

it doesn't look like mik and is<br />

supposed to be quite healthy too.<br />

Browsing through titbits and treasures<br />

at the Kanzlei fleamarket<br />

(p. 45) is a prototypical Saturday<br />

morning for a Zurich local – especially<br />

if it’s followed by a large café<br />

latte in one of the happening bars<br />

around Helvetiaplatz.<br />

Some of Zurich’s main sights<br />

come for free: A must see are the<br />

Giacometti murals in the main<br />

police station (p. 41) - they're<br />

overwhelming. Or if it’s foggy<br />

outside, go and check if there is<br />

sun on Zurich’s own little mountain<br />

Uetliberg (p. 42): either walk up or<br />

spend some francs on a train ticket<br />

and hike back down to the city (45<br />

minutes only).<br />

Ice hockey is a big thing in<br />

Switzerland and the season’s<br />

just started. Feel the heat when<br />

Zurich’s ZSC Lions play against<br />

their rivals. Matches are at the<br />

Hallenstadion (Wallisellenstrasse<br />

45, O-1), just next to Oerlikon<br />

station and start at 19:45 on 2, 9,<br />

19, 23, 26 Oct and on 13, 16, 20<br />

and 24 Nov.<br />

If the weather is particularly awful,<br />

a visit to one of Zurich’s most special<br />

cinemas is a good option. At<br />

the Xenix (p. 15) you can take your<br />

drink in from the bar and watch the<br />

film snuggled up on a couch with<br />

your loved one.<br />

Zurich’s new spa (p. 48) in the<br />

former brewery is impressive – but<br />

when it gets busy it isn’t as relaxing<br />

as it could be. You can escape the<br />

bustle by ordering the Toi et Moi<br />

package, 90 minutes for two in a<br />

private bath, including a glass of<br />

prosecco and massages.<br />

So you've always wanted to be<br />

a rock star? This is your chance!<br />

Every Tuesday night the Karaoke<br />

From Hell show is staged at the<br />

Mascotte club (p. 36). A live<br />

band accompanies anything you<br />

choose to sing - as long as it's rock<br />

or heavy metal! Even if you don’t<br />

want to hit the stage it's a load of<br />

head-banging fun.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Zurich is a business destination first and foremost<br />

- and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to<br />

Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take<br />

advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the<br />

many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this,<br />

accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real<br />

budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is<br />

something for any taste and almost any budget.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with<br />

stars from one to five. The categorization is done by<br />

hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel<br />

can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating<br />

a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels<br />

according to their official classification in the following<br />

categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange***<br />

and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification<br />

we list pensions - usually small and with less services<br />

than a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. The prices<br />

indicated include VAT. The city tax is 2.50Sfr per night and<br />

is usually additional.<br />

One grand hotel after another: Eden au Lac<br />

and Steigenberger Bellerive au Lac. PD<br />

Cream of the Crop<br />

Eden au Lac F-6, Utoquai 45, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. +41<br />

44 266 25 25, fax +41 44 266 25 00, info@edenaulac.ch,<br />

www.edenaulac.ch. Since 1909 the five-star Eden au<br />

Lac has been the temporary home of some of Zurich‘s<br />

most distinguished guests. <strong>In</strong> a listed, Art-Nouveau style<br />

building, the hotel exudes a luxury old-world charm. As the<br />

name suggests, the lake promenade is just across the<br />

road. The rooms have high ceilings and tasteful furnishings.<br />

Many of them come with a balcony or a terrace looking out<br />

onto the lake - with a view of the Alps, if visibility is good.<br />

There are junior suites and suites with a separate room for<br />

your business meetings. For families, some rooms can be<br />

connected by means of an additional door in the entrance<br />

area. Every Thursday there is live jazz in the Eden Bar on<br />

the ground floor and in the restaurant Eden chef Giuseppe<br />

Storniolo definitely has more to offer than just his good<br />

reputation. Q50 rooms (singles 450 - 590Sfr, doubles<br />

690 - 765Sfr, business suite 1180Sfr). Breakfast 40Sfr,<br />

Wi-fi 6 Sfr/1hr, 26Sfr/24hrs. PJHAR6ULKDW<br />

hhhhh<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

Park Hyatt Zurich D-5, Beethoven-Strasse 21,<br />

8Stockerstrasse, tel. +41 43 883 12 34, fax +41 43 883<br />

12 35, zurich.park@hyatt.com, zurich.park.hyatt.ch. The<br />

luxury Park Hyatt built in 2004 in the middle of Zurich’s business<br />

district will impress you. The very spacious standard rooms<br />

have full-height windows, free-standing sea-shell bathtubs, a<br />

B&O sound and TV system and more. As it’s just a short walk<br />

to Bahnhofstrasse or to the lake, the Park Hyatt is just as<br />

good a choice for your business trip as it is for exploring Zurich.<br />

Needless to say there is a first-class restaurant (parkhuus)<br />

and an upmarket bar (Onyx Bar) on the ground floor, as well<br />

as a spa with sauna and steam bath. If a standard room<br />

doesn’t quite match your needs, there are executive and<br />

deluxe rooms and suites with uncountable amenities. Q142<br />

rooms (singles 490 - 1050Sfr, 130 doubles 640 - 1200Sfr, 11<br />

suites 1790 - 4400Sfr, 1 presidential suite 5500 - 6400Sfr).<br />

PJHAR6ULKDXW hhhhh<br />

Widder E-3, Rennweg 7, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 224 25<br />

26, fax +41 44 224 24 24, reservations@widderhotel.ch,<br />

www.widderhotel.ch. The fabulous Widder is situated in<br />

nine former residential houses in the mediaeval old town, with<br />

the prestigious Bahnhofstrasse just around the corner. Each<br />

of the 49 rooms is different in layout and atmosphere. Many<br />

have traces of historical paintings which were brought to new<br />

life when the hotel was built in over ten years of work. Some<br />

rooms have modern elements which contrast with the ancient<br />

walls and beams. Others are furnished with antiques and<br />

look more classical. Some rooms have a private roof terrace<br />

with views over the old town towards the lake and the Alps.<br />

Naturally they all have the latest entertainment technology<br />

and bathrooms to dream of. Q49 rooms (22 singles 560 -<br />

610Sfr, 16 doubles 755 - 935Sfr, 9 suites 1420 - 2100Sfr, 1<br />

family room 1175Sfr, 1 presidential suite 3800Sfr). Breakfast<br />

32Sfr, Wi-fi free. PJHAR6UFLKW hhhhh<br />

Zurich Marriott Hotel E-1, Neumühlequai 42, 8Beckenhof,<br />

tel. +41 44 360 70 70, fax +41 44 360 77 77, marriott<br />

.zurich@marriotthotels.com, www.zurichmarriott.com.<br />

The views from the rooms in the main tower of the Zürich Marriott<br />

Hotel just next to the main train station are breathtaking. The old<br />

town, the river, the lake, it’s all there just outside your window. The<br />

rooms with their light walls and dark wood furniture are modern<br />

and elegant and come with quite some technology. If you would<br />

like more space or an additional seating area, upgrade your<br />

room to superior or executive category (the latter with 24 hour<br />

access to the Executive Lounge). There is of course a gym with<br />

sauna and solarium. The in-house bar 42, the Swiss restaurant<br />

eCHo and the Thai restaurant White Elephant make for a real<br />

first class experience. Event facilities for up to 600 persons<br />

available. Q264 rooms (42 singles 235 - 410Sfr, 103 doubles<br />

245 - 535Sfr, 8 suites 550 - 950Sfr, 30 junior suites 355 - 565Sfr,<br />

1 business suite 950 - 1750Sfr). Breakfast 39Sfr, Wi-fi 35Sfr per<br />

day. PJHA6UFLKDW international chain hotel<br />

Symbol key<br />

P Air-conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

T Child friendly H Conference facilities<br />

R <strong>In</strong>ternet in room U Facilities for the disabled<br />

F Fitness centre L Parking on site<br />

K Restaurant 8 Nearest tram station<br />

D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />

6 Animal friendly<br />

J City centre location<br />

W Wi-fi connection<br />

October - November 2012<br />

21

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