NOVI SAD - In Your Pocket

40 What to see
Salaši
Originating from the Hungarian word Szallas, which
translates most directly to ‘accommodation’ in English,
the Salaši found in the countryside around Novi Sad
are akin to ranches, farmsteads or tourist farms in
other countries. Concentrated near the village of Čenej,
there are currently over a dozen or so of these unique
attractions, with more expected to gradually open their
doors over the coming years. Each of the estates offers
a slightly different take on a similar theme, ranging from
horse clubs and wedding venues to hands-on farm work
and panoramic flight. One thing they all have in common
is traditionally prepared cuisine, and most also offer
some type of accommodation. in general it always best
to call ahead and make reservations, or engage a local
travel agent to do so.
Brkin Salaš Međunarodni put 312, tel. (+381)
64 837 70 18. Also located on the main road through
Čenej some 17km north of Novi Sad, Brkin has roots
dating back to the early 20th century and is one of
the only still fully functioning family farms in the area.
It’s name, which comes from Brka or moustache in
Serbian, is an homage to the original owner, Arsen
Miodragović, who had a legendary swath of thick bushy
hair on his upper lip. It was Miodragović’s grandson
who sold the farm to the family that currently operates
it in 2005, under the condition that they maintain the
rural farming traditions and ‘never let the farmstead’s
chimneys be extinguished’. True to their word, the Matic
family - Nataša, Goran and their three children - have
developed the salaš into the perfect place for visitors to
experience so-called ethno and eco tourism in its most
ideal form. In addition to a good sized indoor dining area
and terrace that can accommodate some 50 people
for lunch or dinner, there are a couple of traditionally
furnished rooms available for overnight stays in part
of the family’s own home, and they’ve recently added
a couple more basic rooms with a shared bathroom
in a separate building. Reservations in advanced are
required, and Goran speaks English more or less fluently.
Naš Salaš Međunarodni put 325, tel. (+381)
21 714 704. We can say with a certain amount of
confidence that this is the only Salaš (or tourist farm,
traditional restaurant or ranch of any kind in the world)
that also custom builds airworthy replicas of Luftwaffe
reconnaissance planes. The model in question is the
Storch, which can take up to a couple months to build
and sells for the equivalent of a decent annual salary
in western Europe. The plane’s unique design allows it
to take off at a speed of only 35 km/hr, which it needs
only 20m of runway to reach. The salaš itself is quite
new, and the high steeply sloping roof of the main dining
area and all wood interior gives it almost an alpine
appearance - it also helps that the entire property is
covered in tall evergreen trees. The meals are as hearty
and delicious as one would expect, and the flow of rakija
and local wines continues to the early morning at the
weekends. There are also two newly built bungalows for
overnight stays, which are almost scale models of the
main building and can sleep up to four people. Panoramic
flights of the entire region can also be arranged at the
nearby airfield, although the planes used are larger and
more comfortable Censnas rather than the WWII-era spy
planes built out back.4Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00,
Fri-Sun 10:00-01:00.
Salaš 137 Međunarodni put 137, tel. (+381) 21
714 497. Situated on an almost regal estate at the end
of a treelined drive, Salaš 137 is by far the best organised
and most professionally run of all the tourist farms in
the countryside surrounding Novi Sad, and also offers
the most to see an do. Other than the gorgeously kept
estate itself, the main attraction here, or at least the
one most frequented by locals and tourists alike, is the
traditional Serbian restaurant, which serves many dishes
that cannot be found elsewhere (at least not prepared this
well). The dining areas are could also well be considered
as mini ethnological museums, as the walls, shelves and
cupboards are packed with various rural bric-a-brac. In
a separate building there are 13 spacious rooms for
hire, all individually designed in an old German style, but
equipped with modern bathrooms and extras such as TVs
and stereos, and there’s even an onsite sauna. For horse
lovers, there is also a stable with some two dozen of the
majestic creatures, and the numerous other activities
available to guests include wine tastings, hunting trips,
golf lessons, archery, volleyball, horse-drawn carriage
rides and much more.4Reservations required. Restaurant
closed on Mondays.
Cvejin Salaš Nikole Tesle 2, tel. (+381) 21 898
045. If you aren’t fortunate enough to have your own
Serbian grandparents, perhaps the closest you will
ever get is a visit to the farmhouse of Zvonimirka and
Aleksandar Cvejić in the village of Begeč some 18km
to the west of Novi Sad. The incredibly cute pair are
actually brother and sister, and their Salaš is one of the
quaintest and friendliest we’ve ever had the pleasure of
visiting. Although awarding any individual in Serbia the
title of Best Cook is a fool’s errand, the dishes that come
out of Zvonimirka’s kitchen are about as highly regarded
as they come, and tucking into one of her meals should
be a priority for anyone who has an appreciation for
perfectly prepared food. While his sister is in the kitchen,
Aleksandar can likely be found puttering around the
property: mowing the lawn, trimming the lavander bushes
or feeding some of the many domestic animals. The farm
is quite popular with visitors from all over Europe and it’s
not uncommon for large groups of cyclists, hunters or
festival goers to hire the the whole place for several days
at a time, staying in one of the well-worn but comfortable
rooms or pitching a tent outside.
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