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Shot taken at the Lysakov Gallery in Pacific Grove - 65° Magazine

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<strong>in</strong>nov<strong>at</strong>ive approaches to cook<strong>in</strong>g regularly. “We<br />

collabor<strong>at</strong>e back and forth a gre<strong>at</strong> deal,” Keene says.<br />

“I’m quite fortun<strong>at</strong>e to be associ<strong>at</strong>ed with a man of his<br />

expertise and wisdom.”<br />

As you enter <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> lodge <strong>at</strong> Carmel Valley Ranch and<br />

stroll past <strong>the</strong> lobby area, you encounter Citronelle <strong>in</strong> a<br />

series of pieces tied toge<strong>the</strong>r by décor. After you move<br />

through <strong>the</strong> 35-se<strong>at</strong> lounge area, you f<strong>in</strong>d yourself pass<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>the</strong> 17-se<strong>at</strong> bar before angl<strong>in</strong>g past a 12-se<strong>at</strong> chef’s table<br />

and pass<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> light and airy 54-se<strong>at</strong> d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g room.<br />

There is also a priv<strong>at</strong>e d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g room which se<strong>at</strong>s up to 24.<br />

CHASING SEASONS, FOLLOwING TRENDS<br />

Like most professional chefs, Keene says his primary<br />

<strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> his profession is <strong>the</strong> cre<strong>at</strong>ivity it allows him to<br />

express. “Th<strong>at</strong> and I really like <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>stant gr<strong>at</strong>ific<strong>at</strong>ion of<br />

see<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> results of my cre<strong>at</strong>ivity every day,” he says with<br />

a wry chuckle.<br />

Part of <strong>the</strong> fun for him <strong>at</strong> Citronelle is wh<strong>at</strong> he calls<br />

“chas<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> seasons” <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> lush Nor<strong>the</strong>rn California<br />

countryside. “In <strong>the</strong> spr<strong>in</strong>g, you get to th<strong>in</strong>k about new<br />

ways to <strong>in</strong>corpor<strong>at</strong>e morels, asparagus, fresh peas, and<br />

peaches, <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> menu. Then comes summer and you<br />

turn your <strong>at</strong>tention to tom<strong>at</strong>oes and melons. In <strong>the</strong> fall,<br />

you focus on th<strong>in</strong>gs like apples and mushrooms. It’s just a<br />

never-end<strong>in</strong>g range of variety of choices.”<br />

Keene also tries to keep abreast of trends <strong>in</strong> his profession,<br />

particularly when it comes to different cook<strong>in</strong>g<br />

techniques. “We are evolv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to a whole new way of<br />

DINE 53<br />

Citronelle fe<strong>at</strong>ures a 35–se<strong>at</strong><br />

lounge area, a 17–se<strong>at</strong> bar, a<br />

12–se<strong>at</strong> Chef’s table, and a<br />

54–se<strong>at</strong> d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g room.<br />

cook<strong>in</strong>g right now,” he says with enthusiasm. “We’re<br />

look<strong>in</strong>g <strong>at</strong> us<strong>in</strong>g liquid nitrogen <strong>in</strong> some fasc<strong>in</strong><strong>at</strong><strong>in</strong>g ways.<br />

There’s an <strong>in</strong>trigu<strong>in</strong>g trend toward sous-vide cook<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Th<strong>at</strong>’s a style th<strong>at</strong> uses cook<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a bag <strong>in</strong> which a<br />

vacuum is cre<strong>at</strong>ed.” He enjoys experiment<strong>in</strong>g with<br />

cook<strong>in</strong>g approaches th<strong>at</strong> are vari<strong>at</strong>ions CONTINUED ON PG 89

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