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MUNSTER 13<br />

II<br />

If I had to see Minister by motor car, my dispo-<br />

sition would be to start from Waterford, follow the<br />

valley of the Suir up to Clonmel, then strike north<br />

to Cashel and see it. All the monuments can be seen<br />

in a few hours, and no ruin or building that I ever<br />

visited has so intelligent a custodian. From Cashel<br />

I would go to Holycross, that exquisite remnant of<br />

monastic splendour, rich in historic memories, and<br />

thence push out across Tipperary to the north-west,<br />

steering for the gap between Keeper Mountain<br />

and the Silver Mines. This would bring me out of<br />

the Golden Vale, which is in truth the valley of the<br />

Suir, and into the basin of a still greater and more<br />

famous river, at its most famous point. For from<br />

this gap the route would descend to the Shannon,<br />

at the narrow gorge below Lough Derg where all<br />

its vast volume of water is contracted to the ford<br />

and pass at Killaloe. Here, if you will, is beauty:<br />

long peaceful levels above the weir where lake passes<br />

imperceptibly into broad river; below it huge swirling<br />

rapids, interspersed with wide, smooth, yet<br />

swift run-<br />

ning salmon pools, all down the twelve miles of<br />

river to the head of the tideway<br />

at Limerick. And<br />

here, too, are historic memories more glorious than

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