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50<br />
MUNSTER<br />
and other wild and beautiful herbage grow with ex-<br />
quisite profusion. That is what makes to my mind<br />
the essence of Killarney's charm, this wealth of intri-<br />
cate detail making a foreground<br />
to mountain and<br />
lake scenery as bold and wild as any highlands<br />
can show. Add to this the presence of unfamiliar<br />
foliage, here native, exotic everywhere else notably<br />
the arbutus with its dark, glossy leaf and ruddy<br />
stem, handsomest of all shrubs; dark yew also, and<br />
juniper, mingled in with native growth<br />
of oak and<br />
birch, yet through all, skilful plantation has set in<br />
this and that graceful foreign tree, this and that<br />
bright berry. It is no wonder that such a place<br />
should have become one of the world's great tourist<br />
centres, especially when to these beauties are added<br />
the distinction and interest of fine ruins Ross Castle<br />
where the O'Donoghues were lords till Cromwell's<br />
forces drove them out; Inisfallen where St. Finian's<br />
pious monks had their abbey through untroubled cen-<br />
turies. And, being as it is, Killarney is equipped<br />
for the tourist as is no other place in Ireland: all the<br />
excursions have been thought and planned, and your<br />
hotelkeeper will have arrangements fully made; nor<br />
is the plague of beggars at all the annoyance that it<br />
used to be a blessed reform. The boatmen have<br />
learnt their trade of cicerone to perfection, and will<br />
not only tell you the standard yarns and jests and