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50<br />

MUNSTER<br />

and other wild and beautiful herbage grow with ex-<br />

quisite profusion. That is what makes to my mind<br />

the essence of Killarney's charm, this wealth of intri-<br />

cate detail making a foreground<br />

to mountain and<br />

lake scenery as bold and wild as any highlands<br />

can show. Add to this the presence of unfamiliar<br />

foliage, here native, exotic everywhere else notably<br />

the arbutus with its dark, glossy leaf and ruddy<br />

stem, handsomest of all shrubs; dark yew also, and<br />

juniper, mingled in with native growth<br />

of oak and<br />

birch, yet through all, skilful plantation has set in<br />

this and that graceful foreign tree, this and that<br />

bright berry. It is no wonder that such a place<br />

should have become one of the world's great tourist<br />

centres, especially when to these beauties are added<br />

the distinction and interest of fine ruins Ross Castle<br />

where the O'Donoghues were lords till Cromwell's<br />

forces drove them out; Inisfallen where St. Finian's<br />

pious monks had their abbey through untroubled cen-<br />

turies. And, being as it is, Killarney is equipped<br />

for the tourist as is no other place in Ireland: all the<br />

excursions have been thought and planned, and your<br />

hotelkeeper will have arrangements fully made; nor<br />

is the plague of beggars at all the annoyance that it<br />

used to be a blessed reform. The boatmen have<br />

learnt their trade of cicerone to perfection, and will<br />

not only tell you the standard yarns and jests and

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