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MUNSTER 23<br />

soft Irish," I heard a woman say this year, leaving<br />

some platform in Cork; on her way, evidently, to a<br />

home in the States, where she had lived, no doubt<br />

for many years, with the hard-faced, swaggering<br />

Yankee, who accompanied her, and who looked with<br />

ill-concealed contempt on the tears and emotions of<br />

the "poor soft Irish"; but she at least still kept<br />

the homely tongue and kind heart.<br />

From Queenstown up to Cork is one of the loveliest<br />

waterways in the world, little towns on either bank<br />

under the steep wooded shores, and here and there<br />

some old castle. Cork itself may have no very great<br />

architectural beauties, but the whole lie of the city,<br />

spread between its hills, divided by the various<br />

streams of that delightful river, makes a beauty of<br />

its own: you see it best from the high ground over<br />

against the famous steeple where hang "the bells of<br />

Shandon that sound so grand on the pleasant waters<br />

of the river Lee ".<br />

"Pleasant" is the word for Cork, the county, and<br />

its soft-voiced, quick-speaking people,<br />

little turn upwards<br />

was called "the Athens of Ireland", though<br />

with the odd<br />

at the end of their sentence. It<br />

I would<br />

say rather, the Naples: in any case, Cork has always<br />

sent out far more than its share of brains. In the<br />

days of "Father Prout", who wrote the "Bells of<br />

Shandon" and other immortal ditties, Cork had a

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