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MUNSTER 53<br />

from Mweelrea again might distinguish the peak of<br />

Errigal far north in Donegal. At all events I knew<br />

an old gentleman who told me that he had seen the<br />

whole length of Ireland in one field of vision, and<br />

he took either Mweelrea or Croagh Patrick as his<br />

midland centre and Errigal or Brandon (or the Reeks)<br />

as his two extremes.<br />

This Dingle Peninsula is explored by very few,<br />

unexplored by me, alas! I could see from the road<br />

the dark outline of Cahirconree, a wonderful stone<br />

fort, built two thousand feet up on the side of the<br />

Sliabh Mish mountains: and away out to the west<br />

the Blasket Islands were in sight, hardly more ac-<br />

cessible than the Skelligs, but inhabited by a race<br />

of Irish-speaking fisher folk, among whom a Norse<br />

student of the Celtic languages settled himself the<br />

other day and was overjoyed to find a stone inscription<br />

in Runic characters, containing the mind of some<br />

Scandinavian forebear of his own, set down in the<br />

Norse that was spoken a thousand years ago and<br />

had waited ten centuries for him to decipher it.<br />

Under Brandon, on the extreme west of the penin-<br />

sula, lies Smerwick Bay, where in Elizabeth's reign<br />

a small detachment of Spaniards<br />

lished themselves;<br />

landed and estab-<br />

their earthworks at Fort del Oro<br />

(so called because Frobisher was wrecked there<br />

with a cargo of pyrites which he took to be gold)

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