US Army mountaineering techniques (basic)

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They indicate extreme instability in the atmosphere. These clouds have bases below 2,000 meters, and tops over 6,100 meters above ground level. When these clouds are mature, they exhibit frozen stratus clouds at their tops that produce an "anvil head" appearance. These clouds may be local storms or they may be associated with the cold front of a traveling storm. They produce high, gusty winds; lightning; heavy showers; and occasionally hail and tornados-though the latter are rare in mountainous terrain. Such thunderstorms are usually short lived and bring clear weather. Cloud caps often form above pinnacles and peaks, and usually indicate higher winds aloft. Cloud caps with a lens shape, similar to a "flying saucer," are called lenticular and indicate very high winds (over 40 knots). Cloud caps should always be watched for changes. If they grow and descend, bad weather can be expected. Serious errors can occur in interpreting the extent of cloud cover, especially when cloud cover must be reported to another location. Sky cover always appears greater on or near the horizon, especially if the sky is covered with cumulus clouds, since the observer is looking more at the sides of the clouds rather than between them. Cloud cover estimates should be restricted to sky areas more than 40 degrees above the horizon-that is, to the local sky. Clouds and precipitation increase with height until a zone of maximum precipitation is reached; above this zone they decrease. They occur near 1,800 meters elevation in middle latitudes and at lower levels as the poles are approached. Usually a dense forest marks the zone of maximum rainfall. Slopes facing the prevailing wind receive heavier precipitation than those protected from the wind-on the leeward side, especially when large bodies of water lie to the windward side. At night and in fall and winter, valleys are colder and foggier than higher slopes, particularly when surrounding waters like rivers and streams have not yet frozen. REMEMBER! Fog can be used for concealment during movement. Above 1,500 meters, depending on the region, snow can fall at any time of the year. Excessive snowfall creates avalanche hazards to exposed slopes and can force changes in selected routes. 7. Wind.
In high mountains, the ridges and passes are seldom calm, however, strong winds in protected valleys are rare. Normally, wind speed increases with altitude since the earth's frictional drag is strongest near the ground. Winds are accelerated when they converge through mountain passes and canyons. Because of these funneling effects, the wind may blast with great force on an exposed mountainside or summit. Usually, the local wind direction is controlled by topography. Wind blowing at 40 knots pushes four times harder than a wind blowing at 20 knots. When wind strength increases to a hurricane force of 64 knots or more, you should lay on the ground during gusts and continue moving during lulls. If a hurricane-force wind blows where there is sand or snow, dense clouds fill the air. During the winter season, or at high altitudes, you must be constantly aware of the wind chill factor (figure 1-2) and associated cold-weather injuries. You may measure the wind chill factor based on the following instructions: Measure local temperature and wind speed if possible; if not, estimate. Enter the chart at the closest 5 degrees F interval along the top and with appropriate wind speed along the left side. The intersection gives an approximate equivalent chill temperature; the rate at which an object or man cools, under calm conditions, to the ambient temperature (figure 1-2). NOTE: This chart was constructed using miles per hour (mph), however, a scale giving the equivalent range in knots has been included on the chart to facilitate its use with either unit. Wind may be calm but freezing danger is great if a person is exposed in a moving vehicle, under helicopter rotors, in propeller blast, and so on. It is the rate of relative air movement that counts, and the cooling effect is the same whether you are moving though the air or if it is blowing past you. Effect of wind will be less if a person has even slight protection for exposed parts such as light gloves on hands or a parka hood or balaclava shielding the face.
Page 1 and 2: MOUNTAINEERING TECHNIQUES (BASIC) B
Page 3 and 4: Practice Exercise LESSON 3: CLIMBIN
Page 5 and 6: weather. If you are scheduled to de
Page 7 and 8: Hazards can be termed natural (caus
Page 9 and 10: In order to obtain concealment from
Page 11 and 12: This decreased pressure causes the
Page 13 and 14: clouds are forming due to heat rele
Page 15: As the storm approaches, the cirrus
Page 19 and 20: 8. Thunderstorms. Although individu
Page 21 and 22: obscures frontal passages in the mo
Page 23 and 24: An increase in size and rapid thick
Page 25 and 26: A steady fall of snowflakes or rain
Page 27 and 28: During cold weather, snow may be us
Page 29 and 30: 5. Nutrition. reservoir to collect
Page 31 and 32: During ascent to high altitudes, yo
Page 33 and 34: A unit should rest after each 1,000
Page 35 and 36: field. Pace counts should be used i
Page 37 and 38: Many other factors, in various comb
Page 39 and 40: distinguish between them, open the
Page 41 and 42: Not changing socks often. Improper
Page 43 and 44: If frostbite is not recognized befo
Page 45 and 46: Sunburn. This is the burning of exp
Page 47 and 48: Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is a
Page 49 and 50: death. Cases that are recognized ea
Page 51 and 52: a. typical mountainous weather in h
Page 53 and 54: 3. c. the life cycle of a local sto
Page 55 and 56: PART A - CLIMBING ROPES AND TYPES O
Page 57 and 58: You should inspect these ropes for
Page 59 and 60: direction as the standing part. In
Page 61 and 62: itself to lock it in place. Six to
Page 63 and 64: When handling ropes, you should obs
Page 65 and 66: Class I - Joining knots Class II -
Page 67 and 68:
STEP 3 - Reach through the loop and
Page 69 and 70:
Checkpoints: Two wraps with the wo
Page 71 and 72:
Checkpoints: The loop is locked in
Page 73 and 74:
STEP 2 - Tie a figure eight knot in
Page 75 and 76:
STEP 2 - Form a loop away from and
Page 77 and 78:
STEP 5 - Secure the heel wrap and p
Page 79 and 80:
The bight in the knot faces back to
Page 81 and 82:
STEP 3 - With the working end, form
Page 83 and 84:
Checkpoints: The loop is the desir
Page 85 and 86:
STEP 4 - Hold the newly formed loop
Page 87 and 88:
STEP 1 - Lay the rope across the th
Page 89 and 90:
STEP 7 - Finish the knot with a bow
Page 91 and 92:
STEP 1 - To tie a bowline on a coil
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Checkpoints are the same as for a r
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The process of tying the knot invol
Page 97 and 98:
The process of tying the knot invol
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The following information applies t
Page 101 and 102:
D-Shaped snaplinks are stronger tha
Page 103 and 104:
Mountain packing list. The mountain
Page 105 and 106:
the balls of his feet The length an
Page 107 and 108:
Proper wear of cold-weather clothin
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In cold weather, the best issue soc
Page 111 and 112:
General equipment includes items us
Page 113 and 114:
There are four configurations used
Page 115 and 116:
Angle pitons. These are used in wid
Page 117 and 118:
lades are straight and edges tapere
Page 119 and 120:
3. As a member of your unit, you ha
Page 121 and 122:
When tying any class of knots, it i
Page 123 and 124:
mountain climbing equipment and tec
Page 125 and 126:
Walking on Hard Ground. Hard ground
Page 127 and 128:
3. Balance Climbing. Balance climbi
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Down climbing. During descents, you
Page 131 and 132:
Feet kept below the body and should
Page 133 and 134:
Jam Holds. Jamming involves wedging
Page 135 and 136:
Footholds. On steep slopes, the bod
Page 138 and 139:
Inverted pull hold (see Figure 3-11
Page 140 and 141:
As the body is raised to chest leve
Page 142 and 143:
the lower man is anchored to the ro
Page 144 and 145:
Keep the soles of boots clean and d
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Rope's point of attachment to the l
Page 148 and 149:
Static belay. This belay does not a
Page 150 and 151:
If the anchor is further than an ar
Page 152 and 153:
Brace properly for the expected dir
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ake position is to the belay's oppo
Page 156 and 157:
The rope leading from the climber i
Page 158 and 159:
10. Mechanical Belay. These belays
Page 160 and 161:
1. General. PART C - RAPPELLING Rap
Page 162 and 163:
In an emergency, double the rope an
Page 164 and 165:
Adjust the joining knot so that it
Page 166 and 167:
to face up toward the anchor point.
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Seat-Shoulder Rappel. To hook up fo
Page 170 and 171:
Munter Hitch. Attach a large radius
Page 172 and 173:
If you are the first rappeller down
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LESSON 3 PRACTICAL EXERCISE Instruc
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tight. c. ensure that the rope runn
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US Army mountaineering techniques (basic)

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