23.01.2014 Views

The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the ...

The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the ...

The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the ...

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

<strong>in</strong> real terms, so sales by volume <strong>in</strong>creased by 37%.<br />

Thus, over four years, <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> garments bought<br />

per person <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> UK <strong>in</strong>creased by over one third A10 .<br />

Price <strong>in</strong>dices for consumer goods <strong>and</strong> services<br />

160<br />

Price <strong>in</strong>dicies [1995 price = 100]<br />

140<br />

120<br />

100<br />

manufactured to add value <strong>and</strong> sold as fashionable<br />

items. However, most are baled <strong>and</strong> shipped for resale<br />

<strong>in</strong> Eastern Europe, <strong>the</strong> Middle-East or Africa. Secondh<strong>and</strong><br />

garments bales are sold via a commodity market<br />

to traders <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>n to stall merchants for resale at<br />

local markets.<br />

80<br />

60<br />

1990<br />

1991<br />

1992<br />

1993<br />

1994<br />

1995<br />

1996<br />

1997<br />

1998<br />

1999<br />

2000<br />

2001<br />

2002<br />

2003<br />

2004<br />

2005<br />

A small fraction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> collected <strong>textiles</strong> is shredded<br />

<strong>and</strong> converted <strong>in</strong>to wipes or carded <strong>and</strong> mixed with<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r fibres to be re-spun <strong>in</strong>to yarn. An example <strong>of</strong><br />

such a yarn is that developed by Annie Sherburne with<br />

50% recycled 50% virg<strong>in</strong> wool.<br />

Food<br />

Alcoholic dr<strong>in</strong>ks<br />

Cloth<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Hous<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Transport<br />

Communications<br />

Source: ONS [1995 prices = 100]<br />

<strong>The</strong> second-h<strong>and</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s trade <strong>in</strong> develop<strong>in</strong>g countries<br />

creates some employment A11 <strong>and</strong> is an important<br />

Second-h<strong>and</strong> <strong>cloth<strong>in</strong>g</strong> is<br />

worth $1 billion per year<br />

After <strong>the</strong> consumer use phase <strong>the</strong> life <strong>of</strong> a garment<br />

or textile product is not over. Some clo<strong>the</strong>s <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>textiles</strong> are taken to recycl<strong>in</strong>g clo<strong>the</strong>s banks operated<br />

for example by <strong>the</strong> Salvation Army (which also has<br />

door to door collection), Traid, Oxfam, or many o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Textile Recycl<strong>in</strong>g Association.<br />

<strong>The</strong> goods are transported to recycl<strong>in</strong>g plants to be<br />

sorted. <strong>The</strong> best quality garments are sent for resale<br />

at charity shops <strong>and</strong> a small number <strong>of</strong> items are re-<br />

source <strong>of</strong> low cost <strong>cloth<strong>in</strong>g</strong>. <strong>The</strong> trade is only a small<br />

fraction <strong>of</strong> global trade <strong>in</strong> <strong>cloth<strong>in</strong>g</strong> (about 0.5% <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> total value) but <strong>in</strong> many African countries it has<br />

a significant proportion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> market, up to 30% <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> total value <strong>of</strong> imports <strong>and</strong> 50% <strong>in</strong> volume A10 . This<br />

raises a concern that second-h<strong>and</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s <strong>in</strong>hibit <strong>the</strong><br />

development <strong>of</strong> local <strong>in</strong>dustry. However, at <strong>present</strong><br />

trade <strong>in</strong> second-h<strong>and</strong> <strong>cloth<strong>in</strong>g</strong> is fall<strong>in</strong>g as a share <strong>of</strong><br />

total <strong>cloth<strong>in</strong>g</strong> imports due to <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>crease <strong>of</strong> cheap<br />

imports from Asia.<br />

12 WELL DRESSED?

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!