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Walking through time Walking through time - IBAM

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ITINERARY<br />

8<br />

ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES<br />

THE MONASTERY OF<br />

SAN BENEDETTO AND THE<br />

ABBEY OF SANTA SCOLASTICA<br />

Subiaco<br />

IN THE HEART OF THE ANIENE VALLEY, on an isolated hill,<br />

Subiaco seems to silently watch over its archaeological<br />

and architectural treasures, constantly recalling the<br />

intense history and mysticism of the place in which in<br />

the 5 th century St. Benedict chose to spend a period of<br />

prayer and meditation.<br />

The three years of monastic retreat were spent in a rocky<br />

hermitage later known as the Grotto of the Sacro<br />

Speco, ideal focus of the entire Monastery of San<br />

Benedetto, that in fact contains a statue of the Saint<br />

illuminated by thirteen oil lamps.<br />

The imposing monastic complex was built starting from<br />

the 13 th century and follows the unevenness of the rocky<br />

face of Monte Talèo on which it is situated and that, like<br />

the structure itself, overhangs the valley below.<br />

The most ancient parts, some of which dug out of the<br />

rock, represent to this day the daily life of the Saint and<br />

his spiritual experience: the Holy Wood, <strong>through</strong> which<br />

the Convent is accessed, the Grotto of the Sacro Speco,<br />

where he spent his years of isolation, the Grotto of the<br />

Shepherds, where he met the local shepherds for his<br />

preaching, the Holy Staircase, that facilitated his way to<br />

the Grotto. Those were the years of the codification of<br />

the norms that would regulate the life of the Benedictine<br />

order for centuries, and during which St. Benedict promoted<br />

the construction of other twelve monasteries in<br />

the Aniene Valley, although the only surviving one is<br />

the nearby Abbey of Santa Scolastica.<br />

In later <strong>time</strong>s, the Chapel of Gregorio Magno<br />

(or of the Angels), the Upper Church,<br />

with a rectangular plan and the Lower<br />

one, formed by chapels on different levels<br />

(14 th century), were built around the<br />

Sacro Speco.<br />

Close by we find the Abbey of Santa<br />

Subiaco: Monastery of the Sacro Speco.<br />

Scolastica (dedicated to Saint Benedict’s twin sister<br />

starting from the 15 th century), an important cultural<br />

and spiritual centre, as indicated by the presence of a<br />

very ancient and rich Library and the Archive containing<br />

copies of ancient codexes.<br />

The Abbey captivates visitors with its stylistic variety,<br />

already evident in the 12 th century facade, in the marvelous<br />

portal, and in the Romanesque bell tower,<br />

thought to be the oldest in central Italy.<br />

The structure is centred around three cloisters, constructed<br />

in different periods; the first we meet dates to<br />

1580 and contains two columns recuperated from the<br />

imposing villa Emperor Nero built near Subiaco.<br />

The courtyard providing access to the church dates<br />

from 1052 and is featured by small ogive arches, whereas<br />

the elegant Cosmatesque architecture makes the last<br />

cloister, from the 12 th -13 th century, the most<br />

precious and truly emblematic of<br />

monastery life. The Church was built in<br />

981, restructured in gothic style during<br />

the 13 th century, and its interior was<br />

renovated later in accordance with<br />

Neoclassical taste.<br />

50

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