Praxis Praxis - KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH

Kettenwirk
T e x t i l i n f o r m a t i o n e n
Praxis
Erfolge ernten mit dem richtigen Netz
Catching success with the right net
02/2006

CONTENTS
TEXTILE INFORMATION
FROM KETTENWIRK-PRAXIS
2 FASHION
HOLDING ALL THE TRUMP CARDS – IN THE SHAPE OF THE NEW ML 35 C
ELASTIC GMBH IS ON THE UP AND UP, WITH A NEW STRATEGY AND NEW MACHINES PAGE 4
DEFYING GRAVITY – WITH THE ML 35 C
TWO NEW BRA FABRICS PRODUCED ON THE ML 35 C PAGE 4
HOSIERY WITH HANDS AND FEET
LEGWEAR PRODUCED ON THE RDPJ 6/2 GIVES THE TOES FREEDOM TO MOVE PAGE 5
SPACER FABRICS IN CLOTHING
OUTDOOR JACKETS MADE FROM SPACER FABRICS, FROM PRADA PAGE 7
WARP-KNITTED SPACER FABRICS – THE BEST WAY OF CATCHING A FAIRYTALE PRINCE
SPACER TEXTILES PRODUCED ON THE RD 4 FOR WEARING NEXT TO THE SKIN PAGE 8
CREATING SPECIAL EFFECTS WITH MOULINAGE DU PLOUY
FANCY YARNS PRODUCED BY MOULINAGE DU PLOUY FOR WARP-KNITTED LACE PAGE 9
LACE: THE CROWNING GLORY IN THE PALACE OF TIANHAI LACE
GUANGZHOU TIANHAI LACE CO. LTD USES THE NEW TEXTRONIC ® AND JACQUARDTRONIC ®
LACE MACHINES TO PLACE THE CROWN FIRMLY ON THE HEAD WARP-KNITTED LACE PAGE 10
THE OUTFIT TO BRING OUT THE “LARA CROFT” IN A WOMAN
GAINING GROUND WITH THE LACE PRODUCED ON THE JL 36/1-F PAGE 11
12 HOME TEXTILES
CARB-O-NARA - THE TRENDSETTER LAMP FOR SELF-DEVELOPMENT
WITH RADIUS-DESIGN LAMPS TEXTILE SPACER SHINES IN A NEW LIGHT PAGE 12
3D WARP-KNITTED FABRICS – THE MATERIAL FOR EVERY FORM OF SEATING
FUNCTIONAL HOME FASHION MADE BY BONTEMPI FROM SPACER WARP-KNITTED FABRICS PAGE 13
FLAME-RETARDANT SPACER TEXTILES
ASTRA UPHOLSTERY FABRIC FROM CRÉATION BAUMANN WINS AN AWARD PAGE 14
15 TECHNICAL TEXTILES
STITCH-BONDED FABRICS FEATURING A DENSITY GRADIENT – FROM
A “HANDICRAFT” TO INDUSTRIAL PRODUCTION PAGE 15
THICK, MULTIAXIAL FABRICS – A SIMPLE TEST METHOD PAVES THE WAY FOR
THEIR USE IN PRACTICE
STUDY ON EVALUATING VERY THICK, MULTILAYER, MULTIAXIAL,
SEMI-FINISHED PRODUCTS MADE FROM HIGH-PERFORMANCE YARNS PAGE 17
MANIPULATING THE STRUCTURE OF MALIVLIES WEBS
RESULTS OF RESEARCH CARRIED OUT AT THE SAXONY TEXTILE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
(SÄCHSISCHES TEXTILFORSCHUNGSINSTITUT E. V.) INTO THE STRUCTURING/PATTERNING
OF MALIVLIES TEXTILES PAGE 19
SPACER TEXTILES IN A RESIN COAT – A TEXTILE TIT-BIT FOR SPECIALISTS IN FRC
INNOVATIVE SPACER TEXTILE CREATES A NEW FIBRE-REINFORCED COMPOSITE PAGE 21
TESTING OF 3D, WARP-KNITTED, SHORT-STRETCH BANDAGES ON THE “SKIN TESTER”
PHYSIOLOGICAL TESTS AND PRACTICAL TRIALS PAGE 22
THE PERFECT MATERIAL FOR TACKLING COMFORT PROBLEMS
JACQUARD-PATTERNED SPACER TEXTILES IN NIKE SHOX 2:40 RUNNING SHOES PAGE 25
FOOTBALL IN THE DRIVING SEAT
WARP-KNITTED FABRICS IN TOTAL CONTROL AT THE 2006 WORLD CUP PAGE 26
OPTIMISATION OF EYE IMPLANTS
CORNEAL PROSTHESIS BASED ON TEXTILES PAGE 27
“ROLL BACK MALARIA” WITH WARP-KNITTED MOSQUITO NETS
MOSQUITO NETS – ONE OF THE MOST EFFECTIVE PREVENTIVE MEASURES
IN THE FIGHT AGAINST MALARIA PAGE 29
As to the figures:
Hosiery produced on the RDPJ 6/2 gives the toes more freedom to move
The “Tweed” collection from Bontempi turns conventional chair design on end
Multiaxial fabric – a material for almost every occasion
The Nike Shox 2:40 running shoe – makes running pure pleasure
Live comfortably with ADO – produced efficiently with KARL MAYER
Ultrasonic welding – the perfect solution for cutting warp-knitted spacer textiles
“Sleeping comfortably with warp-knitted spacer textiles” – a training course organised by KARL MAYER and Phi-ton for the “newly awakened”
KARL MAYER at CITME 2006 – other countries, other markets - and trade fairs with quite specific exhibits
Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006

TEXTILE INFORMATION
FROM KETTENWIRK-PRAXIS
CONTENTS
31 WARP PREPARATION
FIRST-CLASS TECHNOLOGY FOR MAXIMUM COMFORT IN THE HOME
ADO EXTENDS ITS VERTICALLY INTEGRATED PRODUCTION STRATEGY WITH
THE NEW OPT-O-MATIC FROM KARL MAYER PAGE 31
33 SPOTLIGHTS
ATTRACTIVE SEALING TECHNIQUE FOR PROCESSING FABRIC EDGES
INVESTIGATIONS INTO CUTTING TEXTILE SUBSTRATES, PARTICULARLY SPACER TEXTILES,
USING ULTRASOUND PAGE 33
PRECISION HEAT-SETTING – AT THE PUSH OF A BUTTON
THE MONTEX 6500 CONVEYOR-BELT STENTER FROM MONFORTS FOR FINISHING
HIGHDISTANCE ® MATERIALS PAGE 34
THE SU DRIVE - MACHINE COMMANDER (RETIRED)
THE LAST SU DRIVE HAS BEEN DELIVERED – HOMAGE TO
A TRIED-AND-TESTED TECHNOLOGY PAGE 35
24 NEEDLES CLOSER TO CUSTOMER REQUIREMENTS
KARL MAYER’S JANUARY RELEASE: THE NEW PATTERNING POSSIBILITIES OFFERED
BY THE TL 66/1/36 PAGE 36
GAINING TIME USING A QUESTION AND ANSWER GAME WHEN ORDERING SPARE PARTS
ORDER FORM FOR PATTERN WHEELS AND PATTERN CHAINS FROM KARL MAYER
AS OF APRIL 2006 PAGE 37
RECORD-BREAKING MARKET AND TRADE FAIR KARL MAYER AT THE 4 TH
NORTH AMERICA EXHIBITION, 28 TO 30 MARCH 2006 PAGE 38
TECHTEXTIL
ANNUAL MEETING FOR THE KNITTING SECTOR
MEETING OF THE GERMAN SECTION OF THE IFWS, 22-23 MAY 2006 PAGE 38
COME, SEE AND UNDERSTAND - WELCOME TO KARL MAYER
TRAINING ON THE THEME: COMFORT FOR THE SLEEPER WITH WARP-KNITTED 3D FABRICS PAGE 39
“CROSSING THE BORDER” – WITH SPACER TEXTILES
SERIES OF LECTURES HELD IN ASIA BY KARL MAYER IN APRIL 2006 PAGE 40
41 TIMER
OPERATING SUCCESSFULLY ALL OVER THE WORLD – WITH THE RIGHT MACHINES
KARL MAYER AT CITME, 17 TO 21 OCTOBER IN PEKING PAGE 41
42 PATENT
PATENTS – PUBLICATIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS PAGE 42
45 PATTERNS
Kettenwirk
T e x t i l i n f o r m a t i o n e n
Erfolge ernten mit dem richtigen Netz
Catching success with the right net
Praxis
02/2006
IMPRESSUM
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KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH, Postfach 1120,
D-63166 Obertshausen, Tel.: 06104/402-0, www.karlmayer.de
Redaktion:
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Fax: 06104/44574, e-mail: uschlenker@karlmayer.de
Design und Konzeption:
LAHREMEDIA GmbH, Legesweg 4, D-63762 Großostheim 2
Druck:
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Fotos:
Jean-Luc Valentin
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ISSN-Nr. 0170-401X
Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006
1

FASHION
SPACER FABRICS IN CLOTHING
OUTDOOR JACKETS MADE FROM SPACER FABRICS, FROM PRADA
It is open and transparent yet warm, thick yet light, and is comfortable, despite being
classed more as a technical or semi-technical textile. The warp-knitted spacer textile
used in the front and sleeve sections of the jacket shown here appears to be full
of contradictions, and yet it offers a whole host of advantages.
The fabric was produced on an RD 6 N double-bar raschel machine in a gauge of
E 22. KARL MAYER’s highly efficient production technique processes a thin monofilament
yarn in the pile layer with just one guide bar, and therefore produces an
extremely soft fabric. This soft handle is enhanced by the surface characteristics.
The surface features an open-pored, air-permeable net pattern, whilst the under
side has a dense construction, which reduces the effects of the wind. The knitted
construction creates pleasant moisture transporting characteristics, and the air in
the 3-mm-thick spacer layer prevents the body from becoming too cold or too hot.
The thermoregulatory characteristics of this spacer fabric ensure that the wearer
always feels comfortable, regardless of the ambient temperature and level of physical
activity, and these properties have been scientifically proven. As part of a dissertation
carried out at the Hohenstein Institutes, the physiological characteristics of
the spacer textile were examined, when used as a thermal interlining in outdoor clothing.
The results showed that the warp-knitted spacer textiles offered a number of
advantages over comparable, conventional materials, such as webs or fleeces, in
terms of their ability to transport liquid
perspiration and their drying properties.
Furthermore, the thermal insulating capacity
of the 3D materials remains constant,
even when they are compressed.
Pressure points caused by rucksacks
rubbing against them, or strong winds, do
not prevent the layer of trapped air from
keeping the wearer warm /1/.
These characteristics have certainly
impressed Prada. As one of the first commercial
producers of lifestyle products,
this designer label has discovered the
benefits of this high-tech material for its
functionalwear collection, and has incorporated
it into clothing. Diagonal pockets,
tunnel drawthreads at the sleeve, bottom
and neck openings, the fashionable, hooded
look, and a sequence of variegated,
silky/shimmering effects, create an interesting,
lively design and introduce function
into fashion – and turn the spacer
textile into an apparel textile!
/1/ M. Schubert, K.-H. Umbach, V.T. Bartels:
Simple on the outside, functional on
the inside – a clothing system with hidden
depths, Kettenwirk-Praxis 4/2004, pp. 4-5
Backgroundphoto made at the fair “The design annual”, May 2006 in Frankfurt
Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006
7

FASHION
WARP-KNITTED SPACER FABRICS – THE BEST WAY OF
CATCHING A FAIRYTALE PRINCE
SPACER TEXTILES PRODUCED ON THE RD 4 FOR WEARING NEXT TO THE SKIN
This cloak could turn every woman into a
princess and every frog into a prince – all
it needs is a kiss to set the wearer free
from this slippery mantle.
The fabric for this fairytale look is made
from a warp-knitted spacer fabric, which
is not only wonderfully soft and airy, it is
also extremely practical to wear. The
layer of air trapped in the spacer textile
creates a pleasant climate, whilst the pile
yarns transport moisture to the surface
from where it can evaporate. This has
open pores, to keep the princess cool in
her quest to turn her frog into a prince.
The extremely lightweight fabric, which is
roughly 2 mm thick, can also be draped
very attractively. With this knitted fabric
billowing and rippling in the wind, folded
to form a hood, and fastened with a hookand-loop
fastener, the result is a wild and
passionate look. The crowing glory of this
outfit comes in the shape of discreet gold
printing, which runs down the hood and
sleeves.
More information on the production and
characteristics of this fabric can be found
in the pattern section of this issue, under
pattern no. 12/2006.
Vision: from a cloak to a cover
This textile lends itself to daytime wear,
but is perfect for use as bed-covers at
night.
In general, the covers on the bed play
major role in guaranteeing a relaxing
night’s sleep, which means that they
must be comfortable above all else.
Every person has a different notion of
comfort, and it is always evaluated subjectively,
but certain physiological aspects
are “written in stone”, and one of
these is the need to maintain a comfortable
environment in terms of heat and
cold. Spacer textiles are perfect for meeting
this requirement, since they are
made up of two cover faces with a layer
of circulating air in-between, which acts
as an insulator. Compared to the downfilled
types, no clumps or cold bridges
through the thin zones are formed. The
entire surface of the sandwich construction
is dimensionally stable in the long
term and does not move about. If this
voluminous textile with its low density is
still not warmth enough for some people,
it can also be used as a multilayer
system, without being too heavy – and it
may also be produced with varying gaps
Photograph by Wolfgang Nitsche, making-up by Nadine Nitsche
8 Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006

FASHION
THE OUTFIT TO BRING OUT THE “LARA CROFT” IN A WOMAN
GAINING GROUND WITH THE LACE PRODUCED ON THE JL 36/1-F
What woman would not want to be in Lara
Croft’s shoes – taking that which is hers by
right with an iron will and a body of steel –
especially on the hotly contested terrain on
which the exciting dating-game between
men and women is played out.
The perfect attire for this “superwoman” is
shown in the adjacent picture.
Whether it be a question of “keeping the
flame alight” after years of being together,
or of conquering the lonely heart in a blaze
of passion, it all comes down to gaining the
upper hand in the gentle battle of the
sexes, or at least “reinforcing the ramparts”
– and the best way a woman can do this is
to wear this outfit.
Wearing this attractive, contrasting outfit -
a combination of a subtle camouflage look
and delicate, transparent lace - she prowls
the world of human emotions, turning
heads with this sensuous, seductive look.
And the weapon she uses is the lace produced
on the JL 36/1-F Jacquardtronic ®
Lace machine (KARL MAYER pattern no.
88/05, Kettenwirk-Praxis 4/2005, p. 46). It
interprets the flower theme with pointed
flowers and leaves on a net ground, which
features a variety of patterns, and gives
this delicate, playful look a touch of plain
simplicity.
These various, contrasting effects in the
design are enhanced by the slightly structured
appearance. This look is the result of
using a combination of various types of
polyamide and elastane.
The fabric is exceptionally light, the net
construction ensures that it is breathable,
and its lengthwise elasticity makes sure
that it fits the contours of the body perfectly.
The light and airy lace band is the perfect
answer to making seductive clothing
and functional underwear lace comfortable.
The JL 36/1-F meets every production
requirement. The Jacquardtronic ® Lace
combines a production speed of 630 rpm
with zero-fault production, is extremely flexible
in terms of the patterns it can produce,
and is exceptionally easy to handle. All
in all, it is the perfect tool for the designers
and product developers who know what
women really want – since there is a Lara
Croft inside every woman!
Making-up by Regina Graf
Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006
11

HOME TEXTILES
3D WARP-KNITTED FABRICS – THE MATERIAL FOR EVERY
FORM OF SEATING
FUNCTIONAL HOME FASHION MADE BY BONTEMPI FROM SPACER
WARP-KNITTED FABRICS
Spacer warp-knitted fabrics used for upholstering are breathable, stand up to pressure,
and are therefore completely suitable for sitting on. Office furniture manufacturers
auch as Seifensand and Vitra have already recognized this and use 3D textiles
in the construction of their office chairs.
High-tech spacer fabrics have also been known to seat manufacturers in the automotive
sector for a long time. Why therefore not open the doors to the private four
walls of living-rooms, bedrooms and dining-rooms to this functional spacer material?
As one of the forerunners, the firm Bontempi Casa has done this and created a multifaceted
chair collection bearing the name “Tweed”. This combines the highly-functional
textile material with steel in a simple design on specific chair types for different
uses. In addition to the long-legged, short-backed variety for sitting at bars there is
the classical timelessly styled seat for taking one's place at any table.
Irrespective of the shape, the processed spacer warp-knitted fabric is not only eyecatching
but also good for sitting on, providing excellent seating comfort. The spacer
fabric was produced on a double needle bar Karl Mayer raschel machine with six
guide bars in E 12 gauge and has filament yarns in the pile section.
This choice of material creates a textile with an astonishingly soft handle and technical
sophistication. In addition the spacer fabric offers a soft seat, excellent initial
warmth and an extremely high level of comfort. No sweating in summer and pleasant
warmth in winter - advantages over conventional upholstery fabrics which are functionally
based on the breathable and insulating air layer in the spacer layer. Used on
their own, without any cover which would impair its effectiveness - and convince the
seat producer. “The fabric is something completely new to us, something special, and
goes down well with us”, stated Mark Oesterreich, sales manager of Bontempi at the
2006 Furniture Fair.
In the case of this traditional Italian company the spacer warp-knitted fabric as a highly-functional
material with design potential has fallen exactly into the right hands. The
company was founded in 1963 by the brothers Alessandro and Giancarlo Bontempi.
Both specialists in the artistic processing of metal, the two concentrated right from the
start on the production of tables and chairs for the household sector and observed
clear principles. These were: continuous innovation in the case of materials and
design for satisfying the constantly increasing
demand for modern life-style products
and the continuous optimization of quality
at reasonable prices.
Following this strategy, the company
expanded continuously during the next few
years.
Today the successful furniture manufacturer
owns six company units and three
works with 450 operatives. This company
supplies interior design in nine product
categories, in particular sofas, armchairs,
chairs, wall cupboards, shelving and beds.
Prominent and well-known best-sellers
include: the Diesis table and the Mason
bed. A world-wide network consisting of
stand-alone areas was set up in 500 sales
centres and showrooms in large metropolises
such as Los Angeles, Barcelona and
Seoul to market the Bontempi collections.
Bontempi customers include 4000 domestic
and 2500 foreign consumers.
Figures which speak for themselves and
for the success of a company which knows
that the innovation is in the details – e.g. in
the textile.
Fig.: Design Tweed from Bontempi ®
(Source: Bontempi ® )
Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006
13

TECHNICAL TEXTILES
MANIPULATING THE STRUCTURE OF MALIVLIES WEBS
RESULTS OF RESEARCH CARRIED OUT AT THE SAXONY TEXTILE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
(SÄCHSISCHES TEXTILFORSCHUNGSINSTITUT E. V.) INTO THE STRUCTURING/PATTERNING
OF MALIVLIES TEXTILES
Jochen Schreiber, Saxony Textile
Research Institute
1 2
3
Malivlies is the name of a fibrous nonwoven,
which is part of the MALIMO ® group of
products, and which has become a firm
favourite in the industry over a period of
many years.
This functional material is being used successfully
in technical textiles, as well as in
home and household textiles and the clothing
industry, but its main application is in
car construction. More than 5 million motor
vehicles are built in Germany every year,
and an average of just over 20 kg of textiles
are used in every vehicle.
In the year 2000 alone, 111,000 t of nonwovens
and 736,000 t of textile composites
were produced for use in cars [1].
Construction of the textile
Malivlies consists of a fleece side and a
loop side. The loop construction may be
similar to a quilted seam (Fig. 1), or else it
may be uniform and closed, but the appearance
is more or less the same.
Colour can be used to create different
tonal effects in the pattern by carrying out
piece dyeing, or by processing coloured
fibres and changing the stitch density (density
of the courses and wales).
Various possibilities are also available for
structuring/patterning the Malivlies web by
modifying the operating point of the stitchbonding
machine.
4
5 6 7
1 compound needle
2 closing wire
3 knock-over sinker
4 support rod
5.1 insertion sinkers,
in the front
position
5.2 insertion sinkers,
in the rear position
6.1 web layer, 1
6.2 web layer, 2
7.1 layer of fibrous
loops, 1
7.2 layer of fibrous
loops, 2
8 fibrous floats
Fig. 1: Loop side of a Malivlies web
Fig. 2: Insertion sinker mounting for
structuring/patterning by means
of vertical displacement
Fig. 3: Insertion sinker mounting for
structuring/patterning by means
of horizontal displacement
Fig. 4: Structured Malivlies, high/low
pattern (right side of the fabric)
Fig. 5: Structured Malivlies, coloured
high/low pattern (reverse side
of the fabric)
Fig. 6: Working point on the Malivlies
stitch-bonding machine
(the insertion sinker is in
the front position)
Fig. 7: Working point on the Malivlies
stitch-bonding machine (the
insertion sinker is in the rear
position)
Source of the backgroundphoto: Wolford
Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006
19

TECHNICAL TEXTILES
Patterning principles
Specially shaped insertion sinkers are
used for structuring/pattering the Malivlies
web during the stitch-bonding process.
This principle is based on changing the
thickness of the web layer that is available
to the compound needle hooks for grasping
the fibres.
Generally speaking, there are two ways of
doing this:
The first possibility was demonstrated in
practice by Scholtis et al. as early as 1970
[2], and involves the use of insertion sinkers
arranged in groups next to each other,
whose front edges protrude more in the
upper region than in the lower region and
vice versa (Fig. 2).
To produce a structured effect, these sinkers
are caused to vibrate in the vertical
direction by a specific amount, so that the
upper and lower sinker edges are moved
into the working position alternately. The
modified optical effects that can be produced
in this way include:
• angular high/low structured effects,
• coloured, angular patterns on the right
side of the fabric (loop side) when a
second web layer having a different
colour is used,
• fibre floats on the reverse side of the
fabric, which enable a raised pile to be
produced more gently and with less
damage to the fibres during the raising
process.
The advantage of this process for producing
structural effects is that the vertical
oscillation of the structuring insertion sinkers
can be effected time-independently of
the movement of the compound needles.
The disadvantage is that the process is
restricted to one specific pattern in the
lengthwise direction. Other insertion sinker
mountings are needed to produce different
patterns.
The second possibility of producing modified
Malivlies constructions is based on a
process for displacing the insertion sinker
mountings sideways. It differs from the first
example in that adjacent groups of insertion
sinkers are used, whose front edges
protrude by different amounts (Fig. 3). The
lateral displacement movement of the
insertion sinkers is produced by a cam disc
drive system and cam discs that have
been designed to suit the pattern, which
are integrated into the stitch-bonding
machine. For example, high/low structures
can be produced, as shown in Fig. 4. By
carrying out a heat-treatment process with
integrated calibration procedure, the effect produced can be emphasised even more.
With this method of patterning, different structures/patterns can be worked using the
same structuring insertion sinker, as long as the different cam discs result in oscillating
paths of different size, and as long as the point at which lateral displacement
takes place coordinates exactly with the movement of the compound needles. The
lateral displacement must be finished once the compound needle returns to the operating
zone of the insertion sinker mountings.
Use of the structuring device as a patterning tool
More complicated patterns produced using the structuring device include coloured,
checked patterns and mottled effects in the “salt and pepper” style. In this case, differently
coloured, double-layer webs are used. By working a coloured pattern, the
principles of structuring/patterning can be explained easily, and provides visual proof
that fibres from different web layers are used for loop formation, independently of the
position of the insertion sinker edges. Fig. 5 shows a coloured pattern based on a
double-layer, black and white web.
With this structuring/patterning technique (Figs. 6 and 7), the outer web layer, 6.1,
which is facing the insertion sinkers, is kept either inside (Fig. 6) or outside (Fig. 7)
the grasping zone of the compound needle hook. At the points at which the insertion
sinker edges, 5.1, protrude, i.e. when they are closer to the knock-over sinker (Fig. 6),
the fibres of the web, 6.1, which is facing the insertion sinkers, are grasped for loop
formation. In those areas where the insertion sinkers, 5.2, are in the rear position, i.e.
so that they are further away from the knock-over sinkers, the point of the compound
needle does not penetrate far enough into the web layer, 6.1, to be able to pick up
any fibres there.
The compound needle hook therefore only grasps fibres in web layer 6.2, which can
then be seen on the right side of the fabric as fibrous loops. The fibres that have not
been integrated, 6.1, form fibre floats, 8, on the reverse side of the fabric.
On the one hand, these fibrous floats, 8, facilitate the formation of a dense, fibrous
pile during raising but, on the other hand, they do reduce the strength of the substrate.
Conclusion
In general, the appearance of Malivlies fabrics can be modified by incorporating structured
effects and simple coloured patterns to make these stitch-bonded textiles more
attractive. If floats are produced during the process, a dense pile can be produced by
carrying out a raising process; this has excellent sound-insulating properties and corresponding
haptic characteristics.
These properties are especially useful when the material is used in car interiors.
However, this finishing process must be carried out within the very tight limits that
represent the compromise between achieving a maximum raised effect for a minimum
loss in strength.
Two methods are available for producing the structured effects, each with their own
advantages and disadvantages.
In general, using the structuring device improves the appearance but reduces the
strength. Investigations carried out at the Saxony Textile Research Institute as part of
a research project have shown that the tensile strength of structured stitch-bonded
fabrics, especially in the crosswise direction, is lower that that of similar stitch-bonded
fabrics that have not been structured (Table 1). This also applies to the breaking elongation.
Tab. 1: Selected characteristics of structured Malivlies and plain Malivlies
Construction Weight per unit area Thickness Tensile strength Breaking elongation
lengthwise crosswise lengthwise crosswise
g/m 2 mm N N % %
Structured
Malivlies 231.0 2.09 208.1 387.1 59.4 67.5
Plain Malivlies 192.0 1.91 247.2 723.8 89.8 66.4
20 Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006

TECHNICAL TEXTILES
Acknowledgement
The Saxony Textile Research Institute, Chemnitz, would like to thank the
Bundesministerium für Wirtschaft und Technologie (German Ministry for the Economy
and Technology) for supporting the research project entitled, “Decortextilien” (Furnishing
Textiles), Reg. No. 159/04, via the FhS Fraunhofer Services Gesellschaft
mbH within the framework of the initiative, “Promotion of Research, Development and
Innovation in Small- and Medium-Sized Companies and External Industrial Research
Establishments in the New German States”.
[1] Böttcher, P.: Fundamental investigations on technical textiles – research require-
ments for the next decade; Part 1 of the
project: Textile materials in the transport
sector, report on InnoRegio research
project no. AZA 03I1810, Saxony Textile
Research Institute, 30.06.2004
[2] Scholtis, W., Ploch, S., Schattauer,
F., Heilmann, H., Schönfuss, M.: Process
and mechanism on multi-needle machines
for producing stitch-bonded webs,
DE 2003457, application date: 27.01.1970
SPACER TEXTILES IN A RESIN COAT – A TEXTILE TIT-BIT
FOR SPECIALISTS IN FRC
INNOVATIVE SPACER TEXTILE CREATES A NEW FIBRE-REINFORCED COMPOSITE
Andreas Roye and Thomas Gries, Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen
(Institute for Textile Technology)
Dependable, warp-knitted spacer textiles can always be relied on. They are lightweight,
easy to handle, and have excellent processing characteristics.
What is more, warp-knitted spacer textiles can be engineered to exactly suit the conditions
and requirements of a wide range of applications. For example, they can be
used in the building sector as reinforcing supports when building with concrete, and
they can also be used in fibre-reinforced composites. Spacer textiles can be “madeto-measure”
in two ways, i.e. in a single step, for example, when they are manufactured
as a contoured textile, or in a two-step process by carrying out various makingup
procedures.
In order to exploit the potential end-uses of spacer textiles even further, the product
development team at the Institute for Textile Technology at the RWTH Aachen has
used them to develop a new type of damping/cushioning element.
The HDR 6-7 DPLM high-speed, double-bar raschel machine from KARL MAYER,
Obertshausen, was used to produce a suitable spacer textile. The distance between
the knock-over comb bars on this machine can be varied from 20 to 160 mm, so that
it can produce three-dimensional textiles for sandwich elements.
In order to meet the strict specifications for a damping element, high-modulus, drawn
fibres (e.g. glass and carbon) were integrated into the spacer textile on both sides in
a biaxial direction (Fig. 1). The weft yarns were incorporated in a very dense arrangement
– to meet the general end-use requirements of composites. The stitch length
in the version shown was 1.6 mm, which produced a closed surface.
E-glass rovings in various counts were used to ensure that the textile was strong
enough. Rovings of 2,400 tex were processed in the lengthwise direction in a gauge
of E 6, and rovings of 1,200 tex were used in the full weft. A PET 110 dtex f40 yarn
was used as the binder yarn.
A three-dimensional, high-performance, fibre-reinforced assembly was produced.
This was initially produced as a prototype as part of research work carried out at the
Institute for Textile Technology at the RWTH Aachen, and was impregnated using a
manual laminating technique. A resin having an average viscosity was used, which
thoroughly saturated the cover faces, without wetting the pile yarns with resin. A construction
with an extremely high compression resistance was produced. Depending
on the composition and construction of the pile yarns, a pressure of up to 500 N/mm 2
was needed to compress the textile completely (Figs. 2). The highest compression
resistance values were achieved with PES pile yarns having a diameter of 0.28 mm
and at a shog of five needles. The basic construction was 0110/4554//.
Combined with a high damping/cushioning capacity and a virtually unlimited recovery
following compression, the characteristics of the material can easily meet the requirements
of innovative floorcoverings.
Another application for the spacer textiles,
with their excellent buffering characteristics
is in damping/cushioning elements in
car bonnets to protect pedestrians in the
event of a collision. The use of these dried
and laminated fibre-reinforced composites
for this application is currently being
tested, and small samples can be obtained
from: A. Roye
andreas.roye@ita.rwth-aachen.de
Tel: 0049 241 80 95623
Fig. 1: Dry perform, warp-knitted spacer
textile with a biaxial arrangement of the
layers on both sides
Fig. 3: Resilient structure as damping/
cushioning elements
Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006
21

TECHNICAL TEXTILES
THE PERFECT MATERIAL FOR TACKLING COMFORT PROBLEMS
JACQUARD-PATTERNED SPACER TEXTILES IN NIKE SHOX 2:40 RUNNING SHOES
A BRS 1000 carbon rubber outer sole with a waffle pattern and Duralon pads, a
reactive Nike Shox platform, the Zoom Air system, and spacer mesh materials with
laser-cut openings – this sounds more like the equipment needed for travelling into
space than the results of the latest research from Nike’s product developers.
They have created a super-lightweight training shoe for joggers, whose special features
make the wearer feel as if he is running on air.
In addition to the sole and its special construction, the design work has focused on
the outer material. A jacquard-patterned, warp-knitted spacer textile produced on a
KARL MAYER RDPJ 7/1double-bar raschel machine in a gauge of E 24 has been
used here for the first time. During production, this machine combines maximum
production efficiency with flexibility, and can process a wide range of different materials.
The distance between the knock-over comb bars can also be varied from 2 to
8 mm.
The spacer textile used in the Nike Shox shoe is approx. 3 mm thick and its elastic
construction enables it to follow all the body’s movements, even when the foot
swells on long-distance runs. The design of the warp-knitted spacer fabric is perfect
for providing total support and a high level of breathability, and combines a net pattern
with different opening sizes, so that it matches the anatomy of the body perfectly.
A dense net construction is used mainly for the side and heel sections, while circulating
air provides optimum ventilation for the foot by using a coarse mesh construction
at the lacing points and above the toes.
The different zones are incorporated seamlessly while the fabric is being produced
on the RDPJ 7/1. The entire outer fabric
for the Nike Shox 2:40 shoe, with its different
functional zones, is therefore produced
in the piece. This process is referred
to as “seamless construction technology”
for shoes; it reduces the making-up
procedures and prevents the outer fabric
from chafing the foot. The textile is formfitting,
it is stitched at the heel, and is fitted
with stabilising elements, which include
a net with plastic ribs attached to it, a
sub-lining in the area around the heel,
and a fastening system for the laces.
Any additional elements, such as labels,
decorations or shock-absorbing ribs in
the heel region, can be applied to the
spacer textile without any problems.
When wearing this shoe, which combines
maximum flexibility during the propulsion
phase with durability, movement control,
comfort and elastic shock-absorption, the
runner always looks and feels good!
Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006
25

WARP PREPARATION
FIRST-CLASS TECHNOLOGY FOR MAXIMUM COMFORT IN THE
HOME
ADO EXTENDS ITS VERTICALLY INTEGRATED PRODUCTION STRATEGY WITH THE NEW
OPT-O-MATIC FROM KARL MAYER
Source main photo: ADO Gardinenwerke GmbH & Co. KG
“A” goes with “do” to make Ado, the brand
with the gold edging, which is synonymous
with quality, comfort and style in the home.
ADO Gardinenwerke GmbH & Co. KG is
currently supplying the market with a range
of beautiful, exclusive products for decorating
windows, furniture and walls. The
company also offers top-class designs and
textiles with intelligent functions. The
beautiful and exclusive fabrics absorb
sound and odours, have an antibacterial
effect, and provide rooms with shade. As
thermofabrics they insulate against heat
and cold, can meet the special requirements
of weatherproof boxes and public
buildings, and are guaranteeing the commercial
success of the company.
In 2005, the company had a turnover of
more than 124 million euros, thus continuing
its 3 % annual growth rate that began
in 2003. All ADO’s factories worldwide are
working to full capacity, and employ more
than 1,400 workers; 750 skilled workers
are employed in state-of-the-art production
halls at the headquarters in Aschendorf
alone. The two owners, Klaus and Andreas
Wulf, are fully committed to Germany as a
manufacturing location, and have demonstrated
this commitment by expanding production
in Aschendorf. Millions of euros
have already been invested, and will continue
to be invested in the plant, which is
organised along vertically integrated lines.
The plant is equipped with state-of-the-art
machinery which, together with the vast
amount of experience and know-how
gathered by the company over a period of
many years, is able to guarantee the unique
quality of ADO fabrics.
The Weaving Division of ADO’s factories
worldwide operates more than 300 modern
looms produced by well-known manufacturers,
and approx. 240 of them are running
in Aschendorf.
The Opt-O-Matic – guaranteeing
independence
ADO and KARL MAYER have been cooperating
successfully for several years.
They originally began collaborating on
warp knitting technology, but this has since
been extended to warp preparation. The
most recent project that the two companies
have been collaborating on is the equipping
of ADO’s works with section warping
machines. A Band-O-Matic has been operating
in the Indonesian subsidiary of this
family-run company so successfully since
the year 2000, that it is even producing
Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006
31

WARP PREPARATION
warps on a contract basis for its competitors.
This is a success story that has virtually
become “run of the mill”.
The headquarters in Aschendorf took
delivery of a modern section warping machine
from KARL MAYER last year. The
new Opt-O-Matic has not only replaced
one of the three machines previously
used but, with two different creels, it also
offers an extensive package of advantages.
The swivel-frame creel with internal
take-off has more than 864 positions, and
is used for producing warps from the
coarse yarns used in the soft furnishings
sector. The second creel has 1,280 positions,
and can process fine yarns of up to
22 dtex. Fine-count yarns in particular,
are currently in high demand on the market
for producing stylish gauze fabrics
and delicate voiles but, until now, the
company could not warp them in-house.
The Opt-O-Matic has made commission
warping a thing of the past; it has enabled
the company to operate more independently
and ensures that the beams also
meet the famous ADO quality criteria.
The investment costs will be recouped
very quickly, just by saving the costs of
having the warping carried out by external
contractors. “The fact that we can
now process yarns of 22 dtex in our warp
preparation department is a big advantage
as far as the financial aspects are concerned,
and was the logical step to take
in our strategy of extending our company
profile as a vertically integrated manufacturer”,
said Mathias Kock, the head of the
Weaving Department at ADO Gardinenwerke
GmbH & Co. KG.
The high productivity of the Opt-O-Matic
is also ensuring that it pays for itself. It
can produce warps having more than
35,000 ends per beam and a running
length of 20,000 m at speeds of up to 800 m/min when warping, or at 300 m/min
when beaming. In practice, the optimum performance of a machine will always be a
compromise between the highest possible speed and the break behaviour of the
yarns being processed. ADO operates on a three-shift basis and is already producing
more than 100 warps per month on the new machine, a figure that is likely to
increase even more in the future.
Something that does not need optimising, however, is the maintenance outlay on
the Opt-O-Matic, since this is practically nil anyway. An advantage in terms of yarn
processing is that a non-wearing ceramic material is used for the guide eyes of the
compensating yarn tensioner. All this high-tech precision enables the high-quality
ADO fabrics with the famous gold edging to be manufactured. The staging of six
ADO room creations, featuring styles ranging from the modern/puristic, Mediterranean
and country house looks, through classic/elegant to Scandinavian and
traditionally English themes, enable ADO’s fabrics to perfectly complement every
interior design look.
Source photo above: ADO Gardinenwerke GmbH & Co. KG
32 Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006

SPOTLIGHTS
COME, SEE AND UNDERSTAND - WELCOME TO KARL MAYER
TRAINING ON THE THEME: COMFORT FOR THE SLEEPER WITH SPACER WARP-KNITTED
FABRICS
As far as mattresses, overlays and cushions are concerned, Phi-ton has relied consistently
only on spacer warp-knitted fabrics on the basis of experience. This successful
Dutch manufacturer promises 3D comfort for the sleeper and hence something
completely new to explain in later discussions.
To cover this the company, which is strong on marketing, arranged a promotion
event for its sales organization in conjunction with KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik
GmbH.
The sales colleagues and product developers from KARL MAYER and the business
managers of the large bedding companies in Germany, Denmark, Luxemburg and
Switzerland met at Karl Mayer on 23.05.06 to start proceedings. This is where the
double needle bar warp knitting machines for the production of spacer mattresses
and cushions are manufactured, i.e. is the starting point of the production chain and
was where the info event was staged.
This was greeted and opened by Joerg Bredemeyer, director of the section “Warpknitted
fabrics and special applications”. There was also a company exhibition. Then
Stephan Jung, the product developer in the same sector, brought the 3D product
palpably close to the guests. He spoke about technical manufacturing methods,
about the design methods which can be used, and about the successful applications.
Then followed a presentation of machine technology at work. The bedding
specialists followed with interest the production of the fabric on which it is good to
dream. Although the bulky material which optimizes the ambient conditions was not
completely unknown, the selling of such new products on the market requires specialist
know-how which is best transmitted through training based on experience.
Proving that this, too, was a winner for
KARL MAYER were the questions,
discussions and suggestions from the
specialist salespeople. The middlemen
directly between the product and the buyers
focussed on the washability of spacer
mattresses – a sales argument which
should be backed up further. Suitable
parameters and measuring methods
must be found in the next few weeks to
demonstrate their hygienic properties.
The foray into the production of spacer
warp-knitted fabrics was followed in the
afternoon by a detailed demonstration of
their advantages when used in mattresses
and cushions. This section was taken
over by Phi-ton in a nearby hotel.
This was exemplary cooperation between
partners in the textile production
chain to transmit information for launching
completely new products on wellestablished
markets!
Photo: Trainee at KARL MAYER
Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006
39

TIMER
OPERATING SUCCESSFULLY ALL OVER THE WORLD – WITH
THE RIGHT MACHINES
KARL MAYER AT CITME, 17 TO 21 OCTOBER IN PEKING
Source photo: WMF Württembergische Metallwarenfabrik AG
From 17 to 21 October, the China Exhibition Center in Peking will again host one of
the biggest trade fairs for the textile industry for the tenth time – the China
International Textile Machinery Exhibition (CITME). This exhibition was held for the
first time in 1988 and has been held every two years since then. This trends show
for textile manufacturing technology has quickly become the leading international
specialist trade fair in China. It has become an efficient forum where specialists can
make business contacts and gather information, and participation in this fair is the
surest way of gaining access to the Chinese market – and this is definitely worth it!
In 2004, China imported textile machinery to the value of US $4,500 million and produced
29,500 million metres of fabric. “China’s textile industry has been experiencing
a period of rapid growth, and now accounts for more than a third of the world’s
production capacity in this sector. This country has become one of the biggest
customers of textile machines in the world, and this is why the ITMA ASIA exhibition
was moved from Singapore to China,” explained Edward Roberts, the president of
the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX) /1/. Next
year, ITMA ASIA will be integrated even more tightly into the Chinese market, when
it will be combined with CITME. This combined trade fair will be known as “ITMA
ASIA + CITME 2008” and will be held for the first time from 27 to 31 July 2008 in the
Shanghai New International Expo Center in Shanghai. It will then take place every
two years. However, the first task was to organise the last, separate CITME. Just like
the textile market in general, this trends show has become increasingly more
important. For example, from 2000 to 2004, the exhibition space was extended from
45,000 m 2 to 62,000 m 22 and the number of exhibitors rose from 718 to 1,100.
Approx. 35,500 visitors attended CITME 2004. With the exhibitors coming from 25
different countries and the visitors travelling from 63 countries, this trade fair has
become a truly international event. Once
again, KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik
GmbH will be among the overseas
exhibitors this year. This specialist in
warp knitting and warp preparation
machines has been an exhibitor for many
years, and will be showing its range of
machines for the Asian market in Peking.
As far as the production of lace is concerned,
KARL MAYER will be showing
one of the latest models in its new generation
of lace machines. This innovative
production technology, which is already
being used extremely successfully all
over the world, uses a completely new
technique for patterning. As well as increasing
efficiency, this new technique also
offers greater flexibility in terms of the
types of products that can be produced.
The three-bar tricot machine has also
been completely revised. This will complement
the lace machines on show with
a presentation on tricot production. The
model being exhibited at CITME 2006 will
be shown in a working width of 186" and
a gauge of E 28, and will highlight how
KARL MAYER’s production technology
can be successfully adapted to suit specific
market requirements. KARL MAYER
Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH will also be
showing a ZM-SP 1800/1000 direct beaming
machine with GV creel and a
CSB-PW 1800 size box to demonstrate
its warp preparation technology.
The latest generation of this warp preparation
technology has already been successfully
launched onto markets all over
the world, and it is now the turn of manufacturers
in China to be impressed by this
technology. Its technical features include
the OPC networking facility and analysis
software, a newly developed and patented
yarn clamp, and yarn sensors with
rapid reaction facility. The KARL MAYER
Service Plus package is also available for
providing reliable technical support, thus
ensuring that all this equipment and
machinery will be able to operate nonstop.
The KARL MAYER Teleservice system
is one element of this package, and
this will be being demonstrated “live” at
the exhibition. All in all, KARL MAYER will
be exhibiting this equipment and machinery
as a “global player” on the world
stage, yet as one which still has a sense
for the specific requirements of each individual
country.
/1/ http://www.citme.org/
Kettenwirk-Praxis 2/2006
41