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Sekonic L-758DR & DTS V3.0 - Professional Photographer Magazine

Sekonic L-758DR & DTS V3.0 - Professional Photographer Magazine

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THE GOODS: PRO REVIEW<br />

Can this light meter and calibration software help you<br />

hit the optimum exposure every time? Yes, it can.<br />

BY STAN SHOLIK<br />

Dynamic ranger<br />

SEKONIC L-<strong>758DR</strong> AND <strong>DTS</strong> <strong>V3.0</strong><br />

All images ©Stan Sholik<br />

Can a light meter make you a better photographer?<br />

If your meter is a <strong>Sekonic</strong> L-<strong>758DR</strong><br />

and you use the free Digital Transfer Software<br />

(<strong>DTS</strong>) <strong>V3.0</strong> calibration program, the<br />

answer is yes.<br />

Achieving optimum exposure by using<br />

your digital camera’s built-in meter, histogram,<br />

or blinking highlights is impossible.<br />

Among camera makers in recent years,<br />

there’s been a trend in biasing the autoexposure<br />

settings (e.g., program, shutter priority,<br />

and aperture priority) toward underexposure.<br />

Current DSLRs deliver darker files<br />

(including files in raw format) than older<br />

models to avoid getting blown-out highlights.<br />

That renders images with a lower<br />

signal-to-noise ratio than necessary, which<br />

the current cameras compensate for with<br />

improved and more aggressive noise reduction<br />

algorithms.<br />

In addition, the automatic settings don’t<br />

know, for example, whether the reflection<br />

off a car bumper should or shouldn’t be held<br />

with detail, so just in case, the overall exposure<br />

is lowered to do just that. The blinking<br />

highlights and the camera’s histogram are<br />

based on the camera’s interpretation of<br />

the JPEG produced from a raw capture,<br />

a poor representation of the actual raw<br />

data present.<br />

Setting the exposure manually can solve<br />

these problems, but without knowing the<br />

dynamic range of your camera’s sensor,<br />

you still won’t know if you’re making the<br />

optimum exposure. The optimum exposure<br />

places all the scene’s exposure values<br />

within the dynamic range of your camera’s<br />

sensor. The optimum exposure also places<br />

all the scene’s exposure values that you want<br />

to reproduce in proper relation to other<br />

scene values within the clipping points of<br />

your sensor.<br />

No digital camera gives you the information<br />

you need to produce the optimum exposure.<br />

As with your monitor, printer, and<br />

scanner, your camera’s digital sensor needs<br />

to be calibrated to ensure that it produces<br />

accurate, consistent results. The <strong>Sekonic</strong> L-<br />

<strong>758DR</strong> light meter and its associated <strong>DTS</strong><br />

<strong>V3.0</strong> software provide the tools you need to<br />

calibrate your camera for ISO accuracy as<br />

well as the limits of its dynamic range and<br />

clipping points.<br />

After calibrating the meter and Nikon D3s camera, I shot a test outside my studio. The incident light<br />

meter reading was 1/320 second at f/8. In reality, even though the image on the camera LCD indicated<br />

a completely blown out sky and overexposed shadows, this is the final uncorrected capture. Lightroom<br />

showed only the brightest areas of the clouds to be clipped.<br />

CALIBRATION PROCESS<br />

The fairly easy calibration procedure takes<br />

15 to 30 minutes. To get started, you need a<br />

test target. The accessory <strong>Sekonic</strong> Exposure<br />

78 • www.ppmag.com


THE GOODS: PRO REVIEW<br />

Shadow Spot Reading<br />

Highlight Spot Reading<br />

Averaged Reading<br />

Using the L-758 spot meter, I measured the darkest area of the trees and the brightest areas of the clouds. In the scale at the bottom of the meter’s LCD,<br />

it shows where these readings fall relative to the limits of the dynamic range and the clipping points determined during the calibration, shown by small<br />

triangles. The meter averages the readings to place them within the clipping points. The adjusted exposure shows the reading within the clipping points on<br />

the shadow side and right on the clipping point on the highlight side.<br />

Profile Target II is the easiest to use. You can<br />

also use the less expensive <strong>Sekonic</strong> Exposure<br />

Profile Target or an X-Rite ColorChecker<br />

Classic. After measuring and recording the<br />

incident and reflected light readings (they’ll<br />

be different, but the test procedure also calibrates<br />

your meter to make future readings<br />

identical) and performing an in-camera<br />

white balance, you photograph the Target II<br />

chart in your camera’s raw file format. You<br />

need one exposure at the incident light reading,<br />

one that’s three stops underexposed,<br />

and one that’s three stops overexposed.<br />

Load these captures into your raw image<br />

processing software (I use Lightroom 4.1),<br />

perform a white balance, and output the<br />

three files as TIFFs or JPEGs. After connecting<br />

the L-758 to your Mac or Windows computer<br />

with the supplied USB 2.0 cable, load<br />

the image files in the <strong>Sekonic</strong> <strong>DTS</strong> software.<br />

The software quickly analyzes the data<br />

and creates a chart showing the sensor’s<br />

dynamic range for that ISO setting, with<br />

clipping points based on <strong>Sekonic</strong> criteria for<br />

highlight and shadow clipping. I found these<br />

points somewhat conservative, particularly<br />

for the Nikon D800E, so in later testing I<br />

manually adjusted them closer to the dynamic<br />

range endpoints. You can also adjust the<br />

dynamic range endpoints to set them to the<br />

dynamic range of your output media (fourcolor<br />

lithographic printing, for example).<br />

Measuring your digital sensor at one ISO<br />

80 • www.ppmag.com


accurately calibrates it for that ISO only, but<br />

you needn’t calibrate it for every ISO. By calibrating<br />

the sensor at its lowest native ISO<br />

and one other, such as ISO 400, the <strong>DTS</strong><br />

software combines the two readings to produce<br />

calibrations from ISO 3 to ISO 3200. I<br />

did this for my Nikon D3s. It’s quick and the<br />

results seem accurate.<br />

When you’re satisfied with the calibrations,<br />

upload them from the <strong>DTS</strong> software to<br />

your L-758 meter. The meter’s memory can<br />

hold three calibrations; more memory would<br />

be nice, as <strong>Sekonic</strong> recommends separate calibrations<br />

for daylight, tungsten, and flash<br />

because the sensor response is different for<br />

each. If you use only one camera model,<br />

then one calibration in the meter for each<br />

illuminant is sufficient; however, most of us<br />

use several models.<br />

Does calibrating your digital sensor really<br />

make a difference? If you are a studio photographer<br />

and have total control over your<br />

lighting, the most important part of the calibration<br />

is probably calibrating your meter<br />

and sensor to the ISO setting of your camera,<br />

as it’s unlikely you’d exceed the dynamic<br />

range of your camera’s sensor unless your<br />

lighting was extremely high contrast. It<br />

would certainly help in that situation, however,<br />

to know the upper and lower limits of<br />

areas where detail is held.<br />

For photographers shooting on location<br />

in lighting conditions they cannot control,<br />

calibrating the sensor with the L-758 meter<br />

and <strong>DTS</strong> software makes a big difference.<br />

For landscape and wedding photographers<br />

who constantly deal with high-contrast situations,<br />

it seems essential.<br />

TESTING PHASE<br />

After calibrating my D3s for multiple ISOs,<br />

I went outside my studio to shoot a test. I<br />

wanted to hold detail in the shadow areas of<br />

the trees and in the distant clouds. The incident<br />

meter reading from the calibrated L-758<br />

was 1/320 second at f/8, ISO 200, and I<br />

captured an image at those settings. On the<br />

camera’s LCD, the entire sky was blinking<br />

red and the capture was very overexposed.<br />

The D3’s meter wanted an exposure of<br />

1/640 second at f/9 to eliminate the overexposure<br />

in the sky.<br />

Saving the reading from the L-758 (1/320<br />

second at f/8) as my base exposure, I used<br />

the meter’s spot meter to measure the<br />

shadow area of the tree, which fell well<br />

within the underexposure clipping range<br />

indicated on the meter’s calibration scale.<br />

October 2012 • <strong>Professional</strong> <strong>Photographer</strong> • 81


THE GOODS: PRO REVIEW<br />

To perform the digital camera sensor calibration, load and align the test chart captures in the <strong>Sekonic</strong><br />

<strong>DTS</strong> program.<br />

When I measured the cloud, however, the<br />

meter indicated that it was beyond the highlight<br />

clipping point of the sensor. Pressing<br />

the averaging button on the meter produced<br />

a suggested exposure of 1/400 second at<br />

f/8.2, and I made a capture at this exposure.<br />

The camera LCD still indicated a completely<br />

blown-out sky.<br />

After loading the captures into Lightroom,<br />

sure enough, the brightest part of the<br />

clouds in the initial setting of 1/320 second<br />

at f/8 exposure were shown as clipping but<br />

not the entire sky as suggested by the camera<br />

LCD. Opening the capture in Lightroom<br />

with the adjusted exposure of 1/400 second<br />

at f/8 showed no clipping in the clouds.<br />

Now I could make a further highlight<br />

adjustment without losing the actual tonal<br />

balance in the clouds. Detail in the shadow<br />

areas of the trees was still good, as the meter<br />

had indicated.<br />

Getting the exposure right during digital<br />

capture is essential to producing the highest<br />

image quality. Using the <strong>Sekonic</strong> L-<strong>758DR</strong><br />

meter and <strong>DTS</strong> software to calibrate<br />

your camera sensor can ensure that captures<br />

make maximum use of your sensor’s<br />

dynamic range, producing the lowest signalto-noise<br />

ratio and highest image quality<br />

without resorting to post-processing.<br />

The suggested retail price of the <strong>Sekonic</strong><br />

L-<strong>758DR</strong> is $634, and the accessory Exposure<br />

Target II is $132. ■<br />

After the <strong>DTS</strong> software analyzes the test charts, it produces a graph of the results. This is the graph for<br />

my Nikon D800E at ISO 100. The dynamic range is 7.2EV from -3.8EV below the middle gray exposure<br />

to 3.4EV above. I found the clipping points at -2.5 EV and +2.6EV to be too conservative, so I manually<br />

adjusted them closer to the limits of the dynamic range.<br />

Stan Sholik is a commercial/advertising<br />

photographer in Santa Ana, Calif.,<br />

specializing in still life and macro<br />

photography. His latest book is “Lightroom<br />

4 FAQs” (Wiley Publishing).<br />

82 • www.ppmag.com

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