Newsday 7 June 2014
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16<br />
NewsDay saturday june 7, <strong>2014</strong><br />
travel<br />
Getting away….to Meikles!<br />
Pictures: Dusty Miller<br />
With Dusty Miller<br />
FOR the past few weeks,<br />
I’ve been telling readers<br />
about a recent trip to the<br />
Western Cape, courtesy<br />
of KWV wines and spirits<br />
of Paarl, but last week, KWV<br />
came to Harare and their superb<br />
wines were featured in a pairing<br />
session at La Fontaine for the<br />
Meikles Grapevine Club.<br />
Coincidentally I was also invited<br />
to overnight at Meikles in<br />
one of their exclusive and fantastic<br />
Presidential Suites, so travellers to<br />
Harare can learn about what the<br />
capital city can offer.<br />
I was totally stunned by my top<br />
(12th) floor suite and having paced<br />
it out and found it measured a jawdropping<br />
198 sq metres containing<br />
two ginormous bedrooms, two<br />
gleaming bathrooms and separate<br />
toilets, a sitting/meeting/conference<br />
room which could accommodate<br />
major peace talks and a<br />
separate fully equipped glittering<br />
self-contained kitchen, could<br />
hardly wait to gushingly contact<br />
my daughter in the UK.<br />
My luxury suite with magnificent<br />
vistas over Africa Unity<br />
Square from sun-kissed verandahs<br />
was more than double the<br />
size of her lovely little family home<br />
in rural Oxfordshire; possibly the<br />
whole of my Eastlea cottage could<br />
be dropped in the Hollywood style<br />
master bedroom!<br />
Meikles’ friendly staff jokingly<br />
called me “President Miller” as I<br />
swiftly booked in to the US$2 000<br />
a night suite and sure enough I am<br />
president (apparently for life) of<br />
Greendale Good Food & Wine Appreciation<br />
Society and had just left<br />
one of their functions. As we had<br />
a veritable Bacchanalian banquet<br />
slated for the evening,I was glad<br />
Greendale had comprised a light<br />
Chinese meal.<br />
Welcoming drinks in the Can-<br />
Can cocktail bar were elegant<br />
flutes of “bubbly” : Laborie’s<br />
Method Cap Classique blanc-deblanc<br />
(2010), a complex, indulgent<br />
wine showing clarity of fruit on<br />
the nose; hints of lime are accompanied<br />
by aromas of toasted bread<br />
and hazelnut. The palate is creamy,<br />
round and textured with explosive<br />
acidity and lasting finish.<br />
A month earlier I stayed at Laborie<br />
Manor House (vineyard<br />
owned and run by KWV) and,<br />
candidly, I preferred their MCC<br />
Brut, also 2010: more to my particular<br />
palate.<br />
First course was a tiny demitasse<br />
of a wonderful chicken consommé<br />
with ballontine and pastry<br />
fleuron, paired with KWV Cape<br />
Dry, which is what the South Africans<br />
now call Sherry (the real<br />
McCoy can only come from Jerez,<br />
Spain.)<br />
Seared mackerel was a surprisingly<br />
blue-collar fish course<br />
for Meikles, but its smoky rich<br />
oiliness went well with a pickled<br />
cucumber and beetroot dressing<br />
and chilled KWV Cathedral Cellars<br />
sauvignon-blanc (2013), from<br />
which aromas again included<br />
limes and green apples with hints<br />
of spice and tropical fruits.<br />
Main course was a magnificent<br />
melt-in-the mouth tender<br />
The major bedroom in one of Meikles Hotel’s US$2 000 a night 198 sq metre<br />
Presidential Suites<br />
The vista over Africa Unity Square from my 12th floor balcony<br />
Members of the Meikles Grapevine wine-tasting club tucking into the food-and-wine pairing banquet<br />
poached and roasted fillet of beef<br />
with braised white onions and<br />
carrot puree and the splendidly<br />
robust red wine pairing was KWV<br />
Cathedral Cellars Triptych 2011. As<br />
the name implies, three varietals:<br />
cabernet-sauvignon, petit verdot<br />
and Shiraz went into this blend<br />
and it was the traditionally peppery<br />
Shiraz which stood out most<br />
to me. Nowadays I don’t drink a<br />
lot of red, but when I do it’s usually<br />
Shiraz with roasts, stews, games<br />
and particularly meaty curries.<br />
Pudding was described as<br />
chocolate mousseline with blueberries,<br />
but, at our table, alleged<br />
blueberries were definitely delicious<br />
young raspberries (no train<br />
smash!) and with this came a<br />
KWV Classic Cape Ruby (NV), a<br />
drink which used to be called Port<br />
and was beloved, especially in<br />
the bitter winters of British West<br />
Yorkshire, by my paternal grandmother<br />
as a warming drink and<br />
universal panacea.<br />
We finished with excellent<br />
Zimbabwean filter coffee and<br />
“raisin financiers”, a term unknown<br />
by any of the foodies at<br />
our table. Quite delicious, light,<br />
fruity and still warm-to-hot, they<br />
reminded me of mini individual<br />
“spotted dick” steam puds without<br />
the custard!<br />
After much convivial conversation<br />
and congratulating souschef<br />
Kenneth Chikeya, who was<br />
in charge of the grub in the absence<br />
of development chef Rory<br />
Lumsden, and George Thomson,<br />
Lounge/sitting/meeting conference room in the suites<br />
Luscious smoked salmon on the breakfast buffet; I had Scotch kippers<br />
steamed to order with poached eggs and toast<br />
of Cape Wines Ltd in Msasa (Zim<br />
agents for KWV and Bols) who<br />
provided the booze, it was back to<br />
the 12th floor to a comfortable bed<br />
the size of a snooker table, where<br />
I slept as soundly as a security<br />
guard.<br />
One of the great advantages<br />
of booking into a Club Room or<br />
suite at Meikles is that it allows<br />
you unfettered use of the exclusive<br />
Club Restaurant on the 11th<br />
Floor, where standards and levels<br />
of food and service offered often<br />
make competitors’ attempts look<br />
like troopies’ messes!<br />
I always look forward to<br />
steamed or grilled Scottish kippers<br />
there for breakfast and Saturday<br />
morning was no exception,<br />
with lightly poached eggs on toast<br />
after some superb fresh fruit and<br />
before well-made freshly brewed<br />
strong coffee, perusing NewsDay<br />
overlooking much of Harare from<br />
way above the tree canopy.<br />
If you can’t afford to go to the<br />
Cape (and my ticket from KWV<br />
cost them R8 250 when that<br />
was US$825: I could have flown<br />
to London for US$10 more and<br />
Phuket, Thailand* for US$90 less<br />
. . . Southern African airfares are<br />
totally outrageous!) think about a<br />
long weekend, night or even just a<br />
memorably lovely meal at Meikles<br />
Hotel!<br />
I didn’t want to go to Phuket.<br />
I don’t even know how to pronounce<br />
it without making the<br />
Vicar’s wife blush!<br />
•dustym@zimind.co.zw