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Newsday 7 June 2014

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16<br />

NewsDay saturday june 7, <strong>2014</strong><br />

travel<br />

Getting away….to Meikles!<br />

Pictures: Dusty Miller<br />

With Dusty Miller<br />

FOR the past few weeks,<br />

I’ve been telling readers<br />

about a recent trip to the<br />

Western Cape, courtesy<br />

of KWV wines and spirits<br />

of Paarl, but last week, KWV<br />

came to Harare and their superb<br />

wines were featured in a pairing<br />

session at La Fontaine for the<br />

Meikles Grapevine Club.<br />

Coincidentally I was also invited<br />

to overnight at Meikles in<br />

one of their exclusive and fantastic<br />

Presidential Suites, so travellers to<br />

Harare can learn about what the<br />

capital city can offer.<br />

I was totally stunned by my top<br />

(12th) floor suite and having paced<br />

it out and found it measured a jawdropping<br />

198 sq metres containing<br />

two ginormous bedrooms, two<br />

gleaming bathrooms and separate<br />

toilets, a sitting/meeting/conference<br />

room which could accommodate<br />

major peace talks and a<br />

separate fully equipped glittering<br />

self-contained kitchen, could<br />

hardly wait to gushingly contact<br />

my daughter in the UK.<br />

My luxury suite with magnificent<br />

vistas over Africa Unity<br />

Square from sun-kissed verandahs<br />

was more than double the<br />

size of her lovely little family home<br />

in rural Oxfordshire; possibly the<br />

whole of my Eastlea cottage could<br />

be dropped in the Hollywood style<br />

master bedroom!<br />

Meikles’ friendly staff jokingly<br />

called me “President Miller” as I<br />

swiftly booked in to the US$2 000<br />

a night suite and sure enough I am<br />

president (apparently for life) of<br />

Greendale Good Food & Wine Appreciation<br />

Society and had just left<br />

one of their functions. As we had<br />

a veritable Bacchanalian banquet<br />

slated for the evening,I was glad<br />

Greendale had comprised a light<br />

Chinese meal.<br />

Welcoming drinks in the Can-<br />

Can cocktail bar were elegant<br />

flutes of “bubbly” : Laborie’s<br />

Method Cap Classique blanc-deblanc<br />

(2010), a complex, indulgent<br />

wine showing clarity of fruit on<br />

the nose; hints of lime are accompanied<br />

by aromas of toasted bread<br />

and hazelnut. The palate is creamy,<br />

round and textured with explosive<br />

acidity and lasting finish.<br />

A month earlier I stayed at Laborie<br />

Manor House (vineyard<br />

owned and run by KWV) and,<br />

candidly, I preferred their MCC<br />

Brut, also 2010: more to my particular<br />

palate.<br />

First course was a tiny demitasse<br />

of a wonderful chicken consommé<br />

with ballontine and pastry<br />

fleuron, paired with KWV Cape<br />

Dry, which is what the South Africans<br />

now call Sherry (the real<br />

McCoy can only come from Jerez,<br />

Spain.)<br />

Seared mackerel was a surprisingly<br />

blue-collar fish course<br />

for Meikles, but its smoky rich<br />

oiliness went well with a pickled<br />

cucumber and beetroot dressing<br />

and chilled KWV Cathedral Cellars<br />

sauvignon-blanc (2013), from<br />

which aromas again included<br />

limes and green apples with hints<br />

of spice and tropical fruits.<br />

Main course was a magnificent<br />

melt-in-the mouth tender<br />

The major bedroom in one of Meikles Hotel’s US$2 000 a night 198 sq metre<br />

Presidential Suites<br />

The vista over Africa Unity Square from my 12th floor balcony<br />

Members of the Meikles Grapevine wine-tasting club tucking into the food-and-wine pairing banquet<br />

poached and roasted fillet of beef<br />

with braised white onions and<br />

carrot puree and the splendidly<br />

robust red wine pairing was KWV<br />

Cathedral Cellars Triptych 2011. As<br />

the name implies, three varietals:<br />

cabernet-sauvignon, petit verdot<br />

and Shiraz went into this blend<br />

and it was the traditionally peppery<br />

Shiraz which stood out most<br />

to me. Nowadays I don’t drink a<br />

lot of red, but when I do it’s usually<br />

Shiraz with roasts, stews, games<br />

and particularly meaty curries.<br />

Pudding was described as<br />

chocolate mousseline with blueberries,<br />

but, at our table, alleged<br />

blueberries were definitely delicious<br />

young raspberries (no train<br />

smash!) and with this came a<br />

KWV Classic Cape Ruby (NV), a<br />

drink which used to be called Port<br />

and was beloved, especially in<br />

the bitter winters of British West<br />

Yorkshire, by my paternal grandmother<br />

as a warming drink and<br />

universal panacea.<br />

We finished with excellent<br />

Zimbabwean filter coffee and<br />

“raisin financiers”, a term unknown<br />

by any of the foodies at<br />

our table. Quite delicious, light,<br />

fruity and still warm-to-hot, they<br />

reminded me of mini individual<br />

“spotted dick” steam puds without<br />

the custard!<br />

After much convivial conversation<br />

and congratulating souschef<br />

Kenneth Chikeya, who was<br />

in charge of the grub in the absence<br />

of development chef Rory<br />

Lumsden, and George Thomson,<br />

Lounge/sitting/meeting conference room in the suites<br />

Luscious smoked salmon on the breakfast buffet; I had Scotch kippers<br />

steamed to order with poached eggs and toast<br />

of Cape Wines Ltd in Msasa (Zim<br />

agents for KWV and Bols) who<br />

provided the booze, it was back to<br />

the 12th floor to a comfortable bed<br />

the size of a snooker table, where<br />

I slept as soundly as a security<br />

guard.<br />

One of the great advantages<br />

of booking into a Club Room or<br />

suite at Meikles is that it allows<br />

you unfettered use of the exclusive<br />

Club Restaurant on the 11th<br />

Floor, where standards and levels<br />

of food and service offered often<br />

make competitors’ attempts look<br />

like troopies’ messes!<br />

I always look forward to<br />

steamed or grilled Scottish kippers<br />

there for breakfast and Saturday<br />

morning was no exception,<br />

with lightly poached eggs on toast<br />

after some superb fresh fruit and<br />

before well-made freshly brewed<br />

strong coffee, perusing NewsDay<br />

overlooking much of Harare from<br />

way above the tree canopy.<br />

If you can’t afford to go to the<br />

Cape (and my ticket from KWV<br />

cost them R8 250 when that<br />

was US$825: I could have flown<br />

to London for US$10 more and<br />

Phuket, Thailand* for US$90 less<br />

. . . Southern African airfares are<br />

totally outrageous!) think about a<br />

long weekend, night or even just a<br />

memorably lovely meal at Meikles<br />

Hotel!<br />

I didn’t want to go to Phuket.<br />

I don’t even know how to pronounce<br />

it without making the<br />

Vicar’s wife blush!<br />

•dustym@zimind.co.zw

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