In this issue... 3 8 9 Beauty Business Buzz What do we need to do on a daily basis to ensure the health <strong>and</strong> safety of our co-workers, customers, <strong>and</strong> ourselves? In this day <strong>and</strong> age, it should not hurt you or your workers to continue to create beauty. Blue Highways When it comes to the st<strong>and</strong>ards of artistry <strong>and</strong> technical mastery, there are never enough days in the month for us to work on improving our skills. However, when it comes to client protection, do we give them the same level of care <strong>and</strong> concern? Retail Matters When a potential client walks into your salon for the first time, their first impression is the lynchpin on whether or not they become a loyal customer. Not only is a dirty salon a hazard to acquiring new clients, it is a hazard to the retention of your current clients. Beauty Business Buzz . . . . . . . . . . 3 UV Nail Lamps Safe . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Esthetic Endeavors . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Blue Highways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Retail Matters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Turn Service into an Experience . . 10 Technology at the Color Bar. . . . . 15 Flying Lessons . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Better Business . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Ohio Cosmetology News. . . . . 18-19 Classifieds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20-21 Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 What’s New in the Market . . . . . . 23 On the cover... John Paul Mitchell Systems Hair: Martin Emmenegger Photo: Damon Kidwell Makeup: Kelsey Deenihan Wardrobe: Adria Heath Creative: Lucie Doughty Experts Rebut Claims that UV Nail Lamps are Unsafe for Skin by Doug Schoon, M.S. Chemistry, Chief Scientific Advisor, CND Recent reports incorrectly claim that UV nail lamps are a source of “high-dose UV-A” <strong>and</strong> also inaccurately compare UV tanning beds with UV nail lamps by overestimating the exposure of client skin to UV light emitted from UV nail lamps. I worked with two other leading industry scientists <strong>and</strong> others in the Nail Manufacturers Council (NMC) to review these claims <strong>and</strong> verify the facts. Using an independent laboratory to test leading UV nail lamps, we measured how much UV-A <strong>and</strong> UV-B is emitted <strong>and</strong> then compared that to natural sunlight. We tested popular UV nail lamps designed to utilize four 9-watt UV bulbs, as well as lamps with two 9-watt UV bulbs, so that the results would be applicable to the vast majority of salons. The UV nail lamps selected for testing are likely representative of more than 90% of those used in salons. We used an independent scientific laboratory not in the business of manufacturing or selling UV nail lamps. Highly sensitive UV detectors were placed where client h<strong>and</strong>s would normally reside while inside a UV nail lamp. To ensure a proper comparison, the same test equipment was used to measure the UV-A <strong>and</strong> UV-B light found in natural sunlight. We have determined that the original dermatogist’s report was flawed in several ways, e.g. authors incorrectly conclude that putting a h<strong>and</strong> into a tanning bed with twelve 100-watt UV bulbs is the same as putting that h<strong>and</strong> into a UV nail lamp with four 9-watt bulbs. This is incorrect because: 1) tanning bed users typically use these devices more often <strong>and</strong> for much longer periods than seen with nail salon services, 2) the authors mistakenly assumed that UV bulb “wattage” is a measure of UV exposure to the skin, when wattage is actually a measure of energy usage, 3) the authors erred significantly by relying solely on UV bulb wattage to estimate the actual amount of UV exposure to skin, <strong>and</strong> 4) they neglected to consider that UV light reflects many times inside the tanning bed <strong>and</strong> these internal reflections further increase UV exposure to skin. Therefore, their “estimates” of UV exposure to skin are not scientifically valid. Since each of the client’s h<strong>and</strong>s are placed into the UV lamp for intervals of two minutes or less, for a total of 6-10 minutes, our study assumed the highest level of exposure: 10 minutes per h<strong>and</strong>, twice per month. Here is what we concluded: Client h<strong>and</strong>s are likely to be exposed to more UV light while driving their cars than they will be from UV gel nail services. 1. UV-B output for both UV nail lamps was less than what was found in natural sunlight. The bulbs used in UV nail lamps contain special internal filters which remove almost all UV-B, so this result is not surprising. The test results show that the amount of UV-B to which client skin is exposed is equal to what they could expect from spending an extra 17 to 26 seconds in sunlight each day of the two weeks between nail salon appointments. 2. UV-A exposure is much lower than suggested by the dermatologist’s report. Test results show that UV-A exposure for client skin is equivalent to spending an extra 1.5 to 2.7 minutes in sunlight each day between salon visits, depending on the type of UV nail lamp used (2 or 4 bulb). This is equivalent to spending 10 to 20 minutes eating lunch outdoors in natural sunlight once per week. These are relatively low levels of UV light <strong>and</strong> these exposure levels are considered well within safe levels when they are used to perform UV artificial nail services in nail salons. The dermatologists claim that two patients’ skin cancer was caused by UV nail lamps, but both of their patients live in Texas, a climate where significant incidental UV exposure from sunlight is inevitable even in the absence of deliberate recreational exposure. One patient had been exposed to a UV nail lamp only eight times during the same year, <strong>and</strong> the authors admitted their patient had “moderate recreational UV exposure”. It seems unreasonable to conclude that this case of nonmelanoma skin cancer was caused by these eight exposures to a UV nail lamp. A fair examination of the facts supports the conclusion that UV nail lamps are safe when used as directed <strong>and</strong> brief client exposures are as safe as brief exposures to natural sunlight. Client h<strong>and</strong>s are likely to be exposed to more UV light while driving their cars than they will be from UV gel nail services. Please read the full report to get more information, e.g. what to recommend to clients who express anxiety. www.schoonscientific. com/downloads/UV-Nail-Lamp-Facts.pdf. Doug Schoon, M.S. Chemistry, UC Irvine, is an internationally known scientist <strong>and</strong> lecturer with 20 years experience as a scientific researcher in the professional nail industry <strong>and</strong> has many years experience developing UV cure nail products. Schoon is author of Nail Structure <strong>and</strong> Product Chemistry, 1st & 2nd editions, many dozens of trade magazine articles <strong>and</strong> chapters in the textbook Milady’s St<strong>and</strong>ard Nail Technology, as well as chapters on cosmetics in a variety of different reference books for Dermatologists. Ohio <strong>Stylist</strong> & <strong>Salon</strong> Volume 11, Number 9, Issue 129 <strong>September</strong> 15 - October 15, 2010 Published monthly by Holl<strong>and</strong> Graphics, Inc. 1750 SW Skyline Blvd., Suite 24 Portl<strong>and</strong> OR 97221 Toll-free (888) 297-7010 or (503) 297-7010 Fax (503) 297-7022 E-mail: editor@stylistnewspapers.com Web site: www.stylistnewspapers.com Publisher Holl<strong>and</strong> Graphics, Inc. Managing Editor Lisa Kind Production Manager Joel Holl<strong>and</strong> Advertising Director Marcy Avenson Classified Sales Kelly Smith Contributing Writers: Judy Culp, Jerry Tyler, Jaime Schrabek, Charlene Abretske, Neil Ducoff, Steve Sleeper, Debbie Miller, Amy Colvin, Doug Schoon Ohio State Board of Cosmetology Kevin L. Miller, Executive Director OHIO STYLIST & SALON is mailed free of charge to licensed salons, booth renters <strong>and</strong> beauty schools in Ohio. Circulation is restricted to members of the beauty <strong>and</strong> barber profession, its suppliers <strong>and</strong> students. CONTRIBUTIONS OF PHOTOS, ARTICLES, etc., are welcome. Payment offered only when arrangements are made in writing in advance with the editor/ publisher. ALL MATERIAL © 2010 by Holl<strong>and</strong> Graphics, Inc. <strong>and</strong>/or the bylined authors or photographers. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. OPINIONS AND ENDORSEMENTS herein are the sole responsibility of the writers or advertisers <strong>and</strong> do not necessarily represent the opinions of the publisher or the Ohio State Board of Cosmetology. Publication of advertising contained herein does not constitute endorsement. Columns are the opinions of the writers <strong>and</strong> not those of the publisher. Ohio <strong>Stylist</strong> & <strong>Salon</strong> assumes no responsibility for the claims of any advertiser in their paid advertising nor in the promotional material they provide either orally or in writing. Advertising does not imply that the paper will provide any editorial coverage, photos, calendar mention, or any other space or consideration other than actual space purchased. All advertising must be paid in advance of publication in lieu of prior arrangements. Invoices paid after terms will be subject to a 2.5% per month service charge. Delinquent invoices may be subject to a h<strong>and</strong>ling fee of 25%. Published rates are net. Agencies add 15% for gross cost. No Agency discounts. In the event a suit or action is brought to collect amounts due Ohio <strong>Stylist</strong> & <strong>Salon</strong> shall be entitled to recover attorney fees <strong>and</strong> costs incurred. ADDITIONAL OR OUT-OF-STATE SUBSCRIP- TIONS: For a one year subscription, send name, address <strong>and</strong> zip with check for $20 payable to HOL- LAND GRAPHICS, INC. to Subscriptions, Ohio <strong>Stylist</strong> & <strong>Salon</strong>, 1750 SW Skyline Blvd., Suite 24, Portl<strong>and</strong>, OR 97221. Address changes require old mailing label. | SEPTEMBER 2010 | OHIO STYLIST & SALON
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