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MAKE A PINHOLE CAMERA

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from about f/192 to f/384, you should<br />

use a fast panchromatic film in order to<br />

be able to give shorter exposures. Color<br />

pictures can be made also with pinhole<br />

cameras. In color work, only tests will<br />

give you an idea of how to expose properly,<br />

and what filters to use.<br />

EXPOSURE: For a pinhole camera<br />

which has a "lens" made with a #10<br />

needle, and placed 5 inches from a fast<br />

panchromatic film, the following exposures<br />

might serve as a guide: (For best<br />

results run exposure tests. Shoot several<br />

shots, varying the time on each.<br />

Develop normally and choose the best<br />

negative for a standard of exposure.)<br />

Bright subject in full sunlight, 8 seconds,<br />

under thin clouds, 20 seconds: Average<br />

subjects, in full sunlight 16 seconds,<br />

under thin clouds, 40 seconds. Dark<br />

subjects, under full sunlight, 40 seconds,<br />

under thin clouds, 100 seconds. Indoors<br />

use two #2 photo-flood lamps, one on<br />

each side of the subject, pointed at it<br />

from 3 feet away. Expose 1 minute.<br />

PROCESSING: It is best to develop<br />

film by inspection. However, the above<br />

exposure guides are based on development<br />

in Kodak Dektol, diluted one part<br />

stock solution to three parts water, for<br />

4 min at 68-degrees F with agitation.<br />

VIEWFINDER: The most common way<br />

of judging what areas will be included<br />

in a picture made by a pinhole camera<br />

is to sight from the center, back part of<br />

the camera, at eye level, using the front<br />

corners of the camera to designate the<br />

right and left hand limits of the picture.<br />

By holding your hand about 4 or 5<br />

inches above the front section (this depends<br />

on whether you're taking a<br />

vertical or horizontal picture with your<br />

4x5 camera), you can get an approximate<br />

idea of your coverage.<br />

FOCUSING: Since the "lens" opening<br />

is somewhere within a few points on<br />

either side of f/200, you need not worry<br />

about focusing. Your picture will be as<br />

sharp in foreground as background.<br />

IMAGE SIZE: This depends primarily<br />

on the distance of the film from the pinhole.<br />

If the pinhole is 3 inches from a<br />

4x5 piece of film it will produce a wideangle<br />

effect. Using the sam~ film, but<br />

moving the .pinhole 5 inches away, you<br />

will get a view that could be classified<br />

as "normal." Using the pinhole beyond<br />

the normal focal length for 4x5 film will<br />

start producing a telephoto effect. You<br />

must remember that as you increase the<br />

focal length of your pinhole camera, that<br />

you are increasing the time of exposure<br />

also. If on a pinhole camera with a<br />

5-inch focal length the exposure in<br />

bright sunlight is 16 seconds, the exposure<br />

for a pinhole camera 10 inches<br />

long will be slightly more than 4 times,<br />

or about 70 seconds. For extra long pinhole<br />

cameras it is best to run exposure<br />

tests.<br />

SHUTTER: Since most pinhole exposures<br />

are long, a cardboard piece<br />

hinged over the front of the pinhole<br />

camera can act as a shutter. It is operated<br />

manually. With flash, electronic or<br />

flash bulbs, the duration of the light acts<br />

as the shutter. The open-flash system is<br />

used when working with flash. Open the<br />

shutter, fire, and then close it.-I!!!<br />

August. 1954

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