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all the food that's fit to print The Education Issue - Slow Food

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ISSUE SPRING 2008<br />

<strong>all</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> that’s <strong>fit</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>print</strong><br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Education</strong> <strong>Issue</strong><br />

A <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA TM Magazine


In this issue<br />

Edi<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Winnie Yang<br />

edi<strong>to</strong>r@slow<strong>food</strong>usa.org<br />

Design<br />

Julia Reich Design<br />

juliareichdesign.com<br />

Printing<br />

Regina Services Corporation<br />

Edi<strong>to</strong>rial and Advertising Queries<br />

edi<strong>to</strong>r@slow<strong>food</strong>usa.org<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>graphy<br />

cover—(<strong>to</strong>p) Michael Piazza/<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA<br />

(bot<strong>to</strong>m) TKTKTKTK<br />

p. 6–7 (<strong>to</strong>p)—Cecily Up<strong>to</strong>n<br />

p. 7 (bot<strong>to</strong>m)—Diane Hatz<br />

p. 10—(<strong>to</strong>p) Scott Robinson/SFA;<br />

(bot<strong>to</strong>m) Meghan Cohorst/SFA<br />

p. 13—University of Kentucky<br />

p. 14—<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Archives<br />

p. 18—Paloma Torres/<strong>The</strong> Lawrenceville School<br />

p. 19—(left) Penguin Press, (right) Chelsea Green<br />

Publishing<br />

p. 20—Bloodroot<br />

p. 21—Chelsea Green Publishing<br />

<strong>The</strong> Snail is published quarterly by <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA<br />

and is a bene<strong>fit</strong> of membership. Have a question<br />

about membership? Want <strong>to</strong> buy one for a friend?<br />

Visit www.slow<strong>food</strong>usa.org or c<strong>all</strong> (718) 260-8000.<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA Staff<br />

Executive Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Erika Lesser<br />

Assistant <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Executive Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Jerusha Klemperer<br />

Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Development<br />

Gina Fiorillo-Brady<br />

Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Programs<br />

Makalé Faber Cullen<br />

Assistant Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Programs<br />

Jenny Trotter<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> in Schools Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Cecily Up<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Membership and Communications<br />

Deena Goldman<br />

Membership Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Julia De Martini Day<br />

New Convivium Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Yuri Asano<br />

Terra Madre International Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Silvia Monasterolo<br />

Interns<br />

Elizabeth Bird, Jamie Feldmar<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation Staff<br />

Executive Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Anya Fernald<br />

Content Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Sarah Weiner<br />

Operations Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Vera R. Ciammetti<br />

Content Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Gordon Jenkins<br />

Design and Content Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Talia Dillman<br />

Development Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Paige Lansing<br />

Justice Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Lauren E. Mendez<br />

Office Manager<br />

Mafalda Cogliani<br />

Par<strong>all</strong>el Programs Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Wendy Weiden<br />

For <strong>the</strong> list of convivium leaders,<br />

Regional Governors, International Councillors, Board<br />

of Direc<strong>to</strong>rs, RAFT Partners, and convivia, please<br />

visit www.slow<strong>food</strong>usa.org.<br />

3 From Erika A Letter from <strong>the</strong> National Office<br />

4 Letters<br />

6 Youth in <strong>the</strong> Movement Siv Lie<br />

<strong>The</strong> next generation<br />

7 Greener Pastures Noelle Ferdon<br />

Organic dairy does a student body good<br />

8 Farm <strong>to</strong> Fork: America’s <strong>Food</strong> System Today Kathryn Andersen<br />

9 Teaching <strong>the</strong> Next Generation of Eaters Richard Villadóniga<br />

How <strong>to</strong> get middle schoolers <strong>to</strong> think about <strong>food</strong><br />

10 Would You Like Some Justice with That? Candelario Vazquez<br />

Students and farmworkers band <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> fight fast <strong>food</strong> giants<br />

11 Cultivating Co-producers Ed Yowell<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> NYC’s educational series<br />

12 Fishing Classes for Everyone David Szan<strong>to</strong><br />

UNISG and viral education<br />

13 Sustainable U. Bob Perry<br />

Higher ed heads for a future of better <strong>food</strong><br />

14 Cooking Outside <strong>the</strong> Classroom Alisa Gaylon<br />

Culinary students at <strong>the</strong> farmers’ market<br />

15 S<strong>to</strong>rytelling Anya Fernald<br />

<strong>Education</strong> at <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation<br />

Producer/Co-producer<br />

More sides <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

16 Driving Change in <strong>the</strong> Dining H<strong>all</strong> Severine von Tscharner-Fleming<br />

Better <strong>food</strong> for bettering young minds—and much more<br />

17 <strong>The</strong> Incredible, Edible, Unattainable Egg Gary Giberson<br />

19 Books<br />

How <strong>to</strong> get a loc<strong>all</strong>y sourced school lunch<br />

In Defense of <strong>Food</strong>: An Eater’s Manifes<strong>to</strong>; Sharing <strong>the</strong> Harvest:<br />

A Citizen’s Guide <strong>to</strong> Community Supported Agriculture; Manifes<strong>to</strong>s on <strong>the</strong><br />

Future of <strong>Food</strong> and Seed; <strong>The</strong> Best of Bloodroot, Renewing America’s<br />

<strong>Food</strong> Traditions<br />

22 <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA Donors 2007


Dear Members,<br />

I confess: I like when things are a<br />

mess. More precisely, I am attracted<br />

<strong>to</strong> things that are complex, ambiguous,<br />

ch<strong>all</strong>enging. Maybe that’s why I<br />

like studying <strong>food</strong>. When it comes <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>food</strong>, <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ry is always messy, especi<strong>all</strong>y<br />

when you’re trying <strong>to</strong> get at <strong>the</strong><br />

truth.<br />

Take <strong>the</strong> New York Times’s recent<br />

report on mercury levels in tuna<br />

From Erika<br />

(January 23, 2008). I’m always hopeful<br />

when <strong>food</strong> issues jump from <strong>the</strong><br />

Dining section <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> front page, not<br />

only because more people read about <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong>re, but also because <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

is more likely <strong>to</strong> integrate political, economic and ecological dimensions,<br />

ra<strong>the</strong>r than recipes or wine pairings. But in this case, no word count or headline<br />

could do justice <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>pic, because <strong>the</strong> truth is, a real discussion of<br />

tuna can’t just be about what quantity is safe <strong>to</strong> eat according <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> EPA.<br />

What about <strong>the</strong> imminent collapse of worldwide tuna populations,<br />

endemic pollution of <strong>the</strong> oceans (and <strong>all</strong> <strong>the</strong> plants and animals in it, especi<strong>all</strong>y<br />

those high on <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> chain like tuna), sea<strong>food</strong>’s paradoxic<strong>all</strong>y robust<br />

reputation as a health <strong>food</strong>, deep-sea sport fishing, <strong>the</strong> ubiqui<strong>to</strong>us tuna<br />

melt? What about <strong>the</strong> longevity of <strong>the</strong> Japanese, who eat more bluefin tuna<br />

than anyone worldwide, or <strong>the</strong> dying tradition of <strong>the</strong> mattanza, <strong>the</strong> centuriesold<br />

hunt for bluefin off <strong>the</strong> coast of Sicily?<br />

Messy indeed. Fortunately, <strong>food</strong> writers are not alone in studying <strong>the</strong><br />

most complicated <strong>food</strong> questions any more: now farmers and <strong>food</strong> producers,<br />

college students and professors, white-tablecloth chefs and lunch ladies,<br />

environmentalists and capitalists are <strong>all</strong> getting in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> game, trying <strong>to</strong><br />

understand how <strong>to</strong> connect <strong>the</strong> dots. A few of <strong>the</strong>m are profiled in this issue,<br />

along with <strong>the</strong>ir efforts <strong>to</strong> use education—in <strong>all</strong> its forms—<strong>to</strong> demystify<br />

what is at once universal and inscrutable: what we put on our plates and in<br />

our bellies everyday.<br />

Studying <strong>food</strong> is undeniably a complex and interdisciplinary act. When<br />

we figure out how <strong>to</strong> put <strong>the</strong> true and messy s<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>food</strong> on every newspaper’s<br />

front page, every single day, we’ll be that much closer <strong>to</strong> knowing who<br />

we are, from what we eat.<br />

Buon appeti<strong>to</strong>!<br />

Erika Lesser<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />

3


Letters<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />

4<br />

Animal, Vegetable; Right and Wrong<br />

It’s an interesting spread in <strong>the</strong> Winter Snail: Joel Salatin<br />

and his sustainably-raised pigs in verso; Peter Singer<br />

and Jim Mason with <strong>the</strong>ir bioethical conundrums<br />

in rec<strong>to</strong>. I wasn’t sure, though, what this particular<br />

argument was doing in <strong>the</strong> American <strong>Food</strong> Traditions<br />

issue of <strong>the</strong> magazine, since Singer and Mason’s<br />

vegetarian fundamentalism is a ch<strong>all</strong>enge <strong>to</strong> <strong>all</strong><br />

American <strong>food</strong> traditions and a celebration of none.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y ask, “Does eating only humanely raised<br />

animals <strong>all</strong>ow an impregnable defense of one’s diet?”<br />

This is a profoundly inappropriate question for a<br />

number of reasons, but princip<strong>all</strong>y because it makes<br />

<strong>the</strong> category error of treating evolutionary biology as<br />

a moral issue. It is one thing <strong>to</strong> question <strong>the</strong> ethics of<br />

Smithfield’s cruel, <strong>to</strong>xic and unsustainable practices—it<br />

is quite ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> extend those questions <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

six million-year his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>the</strong> omnivorous diet of<br />

hominids. Vegetarianism is like celibacy—it may be<br />

attractive <strong>to</strong> some, and even healthy for some, but you<br />

can’t make <strong>the</strong> case that it’s mor<strong>all</strong>y inevitable.<br />

Singer and Mason also ask why Michael Pollan’s<br />

evident objections <strong>to</strong> killing don’t apply <strong>to</strong> animals.<br />

I’d ask why <strong>the</strong>y don’t apply <strong>to</strong> broccoli. <strong>The</strong> standard<br />

answer is that vegetables are not sentient, but <strong>the</strong> fact<br />

is that <strong>all</strong> life forms express <strong>the</strong>ir preference for life and<br />

do whatever <strong>the</strong>y can <strong>to</strong> avoid death, so if we base our<br />

diets on <strong>the</strong> preferences of <strong>the</strong> life forms we eat, we’re<br />

going <strong>to</strong> be hungry. <strong>The</strong> real difference between animals<br />

and vegetables is that animals, especi<strong>all</strong>y mammals,<br />

express <strong>the</strong>ir preferences in ways that remind us of<br />

us—we look in <strong>the</strong>ir eyes and see ourselves <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

That’s anthropomorphism, not ethics; it’s an aes<strong>the</strong>tic<br />

preference and doesn’t belong in a serious discussion of<br />

<strong>food</strong> policy.<br />

I person<strong>all</strong>y have no interest in eating dog or<br />

horse—dogs and horses are my friends and <strong>all</strong>ies, not<br />

my dinner—but I recognize that this isn’t a matter of<br />

ethics, it’s a matter of culture. I also have no appetite<br />

for chimp, or whale; I’m not eating an animal with<br />

whom I could have a conversation, and <strong>the</strong> very idea is<br />

so disturbing <strong>to</strong> me that I’m tempted <strong>to</strong> do violence <strong>to</strong><br />

prevent o<strong>the</strong>rs from eating <strong>the</strong>m. But I forbear, because<br />

once again I understand that my worldview is different<br />

from that of <strong>the</strong> Inuit who depend on <strong>the</strong> whale, or <strong>the</strong><br />

Congolese who appreciate bush meat.<br />

Here of course we run in<strong>to</strong> an interesting confluence<br />

of problems: chimpanzees are endangered, and <strong>the</strong> hunt<br />

for bush meat is threatening <strong>the</strong>ir survival as a species,<br />

just as <strong>the</strong> Japanese whale hunt threatens <strong>the</strong> humpback.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se practices should be s<strong>to</strong>pped, but <strong>the</strong>y should be<br />

s<strong>to</strong>pped because <strong>the</strong>y are unsustainable and threaten <strong>the</strong><br />

planet’s biodiversity, not because <strong>the</strong>y are distasteful <strong>to</strong><br />

Westerners. This is an important distinction that we in<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> movement need <strong>to</strong> understand and respect.<br />

<strong>The</strong> point here is that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> agenda,<br />

which includes <strong>the</strong> quality of <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> produced,<br />

<strong>the</strong> sustainability of <strong>the</strong> practices used, and <strong>the</strong> fair<br />

compensation of <strong>all</strong> involved, is a solid foundation on<br />

which <strong>to</strong> build a dietary ethic; evangelical vegetarianism<br />

is not. <strong>The</strong> former is a big tent; it has room for <strong>the</strong><br />

wide world of diets and cultures and <strong>food</strong>ways, and<br />

its pragmatic sense of right and wrong distinguishes<br />

quite reasonably between what Joel Salatin is doing<br />

on Polyface Farm and <strong>the</strong> horror being wrought by<br />

Smithfield. <strong>The</strong> latter is a narrow, aes<strong>the</strong>tic view that<br />

presumes <strong>to</strong> judge <strong>the</strong> entire his<strong>to</strong>ry of human eating<br />

as mor<strong>all</strong>y deficient. Vegetarianism as a lifestyle choice<br />

is just fine, but if what we want is <strong>to</strong> build a worldwide,<br />

sustainable and reliable <strong>food</strong> system, moralistic<br />

vegetarianism is a dog that won’t hunt.<br />

David Berman<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> NYC<br />

Your selection of <strong>the</strong> Peter Singer/Jim Mason excerpt<br />

leaves this reader and new member bemused,<br />

confounded, disappointed, and wondering if I should<br />

ask for a refund of my membership dollars. Your<br />

magazine missed an incredible opportunity <strong>to</strong> use<br />

<strong>the</strong> Producer/Co-producer juxtaposition <strong>to</strong> streng<strong>the</strong>n<br />

bonds between local artisanal farmers and informed<br />

patrons. Instead, we’re presented with a very weak<br />

attempt at some type of point/counterpoint that pits<br />

<strong>the</strong> so-c<strong>all</strong>ed “co-producer” against <strong>the</strong> producer and<br />

leaves us with <strong>the</strong> distinct impression that <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />

thinks we should seriously consider veganism as an<br />

alternative diet. Given that Singer himself uses <strong>the</strong><br />

political tactic of bifurcation <strong>to</strong> draw an enthusiastic<br />

following, it’s no wonder that one of his apparent<br />

followers has selected <strong>the</strong> approach here—including a<br />

faith-bashing, ad-hominem (“speciesist”) attack on a<br />

man who’s given his life <strong>to</strong> redemption of <strong>the</strong> soil.<br />

<strong>The</strong> disinformation regarding <strong>the</strong> protein production<br />

capacity of land with animals versus crops is also<br />

disappointing (comparing industrial crop production<br />

yields <strong>to</strong> extensive ranging!). Please become informed<br />

of modern grass-based husbandry methods, including<br />

management intensive grazing (MiG) and ultra-high<br />

s<strong>to</strong>cking density (UHSD), <strong>the</strong>ir analog in wild herd


ehavior, and <strong>the</strong>ir bene<strong>fit</strong>s in terms of forage/protein<br />

production efficiency, soil organic matter production and<br />

carbon sequestration in soil.<br />

Respectfully,<br />

Larry C. Howard<br />

Joel Salatin responds: While I do not think <strong>the</strong> Snail is<br />

engaging in a veiled point-counterpoint excercise, I do<br />

agree that Larry Howard makes several salient points.<br />

Peter Singer indicates that my Judeo-Christian faith<br />

regarding <strong>the</strong> human having a soul and <strong>the</strong>reby placing<br />

humans and animals on two different levels is not worth<br />

arguing because it’s religious. Does he not appreciate that<br />

it takes a lot of faith <strong>to</strong> believe humans are only animals<br />

with a bigger brain? And if we are just animals, why does<br />

my eating a cow constitute abuse when a cat eating a<br />

mouse is natural? How about swatting a fly, or smashing<br />

a gnat against my cheek on a humid summer evening? All<br />

of us are religious and have faith in something, even if it is<br />

ourselves. To dismiss entire cultures because <strong>the</strong>ir views<br />

differ from mine is a myopic worldview indeed.<br />

I am not <strong>the</strong> one demanding departure from traditional<br />

norms. <strong>The</strong> vegan zealot, by saying that my meat eating<br />

is inherently abusive, is far more his<strong>to</strong>ric<strong>all</strong>y odd and<br />

presently narrow than those of us who enjoy choice. Vegans<br />

don’t bo<strong>the</strong>r me at <strong>all</strong> . . . until <strong>the</strong>y make <strong>the</strong>ir choice a<br />

religion and demand that I comply.<br />

Fin<strong>all</strong>y, Singer bumbles in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> ultimate ecological<br />

disconnect by accusing domestic lives<strong>to</strong>ck of being land<br />

wasteful. He thinks if we <strong>all</strong> just ate plant matter, <strong>the</strong> world<br />

would be a better place. Let’s assume for a moment that we<br />

could <strong>all</strong> be healthy on a plant diet—a stretch <strong>to</strong> be sure. <strong>The</strong><br />

data that disparages meat as inherently anti-environmental<br />

<strong>all</strong> assumes fac<strong>to</strong>ry farming, grain-based, industrialmodeled<br />

<strong>food</strong> systems. As soon as <strong>the</strong> production model<br />

changes <strong>to</strong> perennial pasture-based, portable infrastructure,<br />

appropriate rest and scale, <strong>all</strong> <strong>the</strong> negatives become<br />

positives and animals become instead <strong>the</strong> most efficient<br />

landscape healers possible. It’s <strong>all</strong> in <strong>the</strong> model.<br />

Limited Resources vs. Legal Action<br />

I joined <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> after hearing about <strong>the</strong> organization<br />

at <strong>the</strong> International Buffalo Conference in Rapid City,<br />

SD. My husband and I live on our family farm which was<br />

purchased in <strong>the</strong> late ‘40s by my fa<strong>the</strong>r. We employ two<br />

full-time employees, raise corn, soybeans, winter and<br />

spring wheat, cattle, and buffalo, and try <strong>to</strong> make a living<br />

and a life.<br />

We farm in <strong>the</strong> face of not knowing what fuel, seed, and<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r expenses will be <strong>to</strong> raise <strong>the</strong> crop for next year. We<br />

have no control of <strong>the</strong> prices we get for our commodities<br />

and are at <strong>the</strong> mercy of <strong>the</strong> markets on <strong>the</strong> grain<br />

exchanges and whatever <strong>the</strong> price is <strong>the</strong> day we take our<br />

animals <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn. We also have no control over <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

<strong>the</strong> rain that we need <strong>to</strong> grow anything, or s<strong>to</strong>rms, hail, etc.<br />

Agriculture is a gamble in <strong>the</strong> best of times.<br />

I would like <strong>to</strong> respond <strong>to</strong> James C. Rainie’s letter <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

edi<strong>to</strong>r in <strong>the</strong> Winter Snail about farmers being proactive<br />

and suing Monsan<strong>to</strong> for polluting <strong>the</strong>ir crops.<br />

I have heard about a farmer who was in legal<br />

proceedings with Monsan<strong>to</strong>. I’m not sure who started<br />

<strong>the</strong> suit, but I believe <strong>the</strong> farmer lost his farm due <strong>to</strong><br />

lawyer fees. <strong>The</strong> fact is that no one farmer, or even a<br />

group of farmers, has <strong>the</strong> resources and knowledge about<br />

lawyers that could win a suit against <strong>the</strong> giant company<br />

of Monsan<strong>to</strong>. <strong>The</strong>ir lawyers could drag things out, using<br />

up <strong>the</strong> resources of <strong>the</strong> farmer quickly, and have <strong>the</strong> big<br />

dollars and guns behind <strong>the</strong>ir company that a farmer<br />

could not ever compete with.<br />

Monsan<strong>to</strong> is also a company that has invested $$$ in<strong>to</strong><br />

research for plants and products that make farming a bit<br />

pro<strong>fit</strong>able. <strong>The</strong>y sell millions of dollars’ worth of products<br />

<strong>to</strong> farmers and have a monopoly on many things that<br />

farmers need and use. A farmer is almost like a serf with<br />

his indebtedness <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> company.<br />

Farmers have survived on <strong>the</strong>ir farms because <strong>the</strong>y<br />

are very independent and bullheaded. <strong>The</strong>y tend not <strong>to</strong><br />

work well <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r in some business adventures because<br />

of <strong>the</strong>ir independent natures. My fa<strong>the</strong>r is a strongwilled<br />

farmer of German heritage and, at 81, does not want <strong>to</strong><br />

give up control of what he has built up in his lifetime. Even<br />

in programs like Farmers Union and <strong>the</strong> Farm Bureau,<br />

<strong>the</strong>re are many differences of how <strong>to</strong> do things and <strong>the</strong>y<br />

also are not large enough <strong>to</strong> have <strong>the</strong> money it takes <strong>to</strong><br />

take on a company like Monsan<strong>to</strong>.<br />

So suing just isn’t that simple.<br />

We need people in <strong>the</strong> cities <strong>to</strong> protect and support<br />

people who grow <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>food</strong>. Maybe we don’t <strong>all</strong> do it<br />

organic like folks would like, but we do need your support<br />

so we can make a living and keep providing you with <strong>food</strong>.<br />

My husband and I came back <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> farm 12 years<br />

ago. <strong>The</strong> farm income needed <strong>to</strong> be supplemented for<br />

our family <strong>to</strong> make a living and I did not want <strong>to</strong> find a<br />

teaching job and work off <strong>the</strong> farm. I started a bed and<br />

breakfast on <strong>the</strong> farm, and after 10 years in <strong>the</strong> business,<br />

I am now bringing in more income than if I went <strong>to</strong> work<br />

in <strong>to</strong>wn for $10 an hour, for a 40 hours a week. I get <strong>to</strong><br />

have <strong>the</strong> flexibility <strong>to</strong> work when I want, <strong>to</strong> volunteer in<br />

my local community, and <strong>to</strong> help <strong>the</strong> guys on <strong>the</strong> farm<br />

when I need <strong>to</strong>. <strong>The</strong> greatest reward is that I get <strong>to</strong> share<br />

farming and farm life with some folks who have never<br />

been on a farm. That is awesome.<br />

Darla Loewen<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />

5


Youth in <strong>the</strong> Movement<br />

—By Siv Lie<br />

<strong>The</strong> next generation<br />

My experience with <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> has shown<br />

me that change—in <strong>food</strong> systems as well<br />

as in mindsets—is possible, though it takes<br />

patience and concerted effort. It is clear that<br />

establishing a solid youth base is crucial <strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong><br />

<strong>Food</strong>’s success now and in <strong>the</strong> future.<br />

Already, youth-generated <strong>food</strong> initiatives<br />

are happening in <strong>the</strong> US, with more than<br />

just nutrition or good taste as motives. Last<br />

November, for example, more than 150 university<br />

students from across <strong>the</strong> Nor<strong>the</strong>ast ga<strong>the</strong>red<br />

at <strong>the</strong> Real <strong>Food</strong> Summit, a meeting <strong>to</strong> organize<br />

a national movement around <strong>food</strong> on college<br />

campuses. More and more young people are<br />

Young people are realizing not only that <strong>the</strong>ir bags of<br />

chips are bad for <strong>the</strong>ir bodies, but that <strong>the</strong> GM soybean<br />

oil in which <strong>the</strong> chips are fried could also be damaging<br />

<strong>the</strong> environment, and that it’s not family farmers who<br />

are making <strong>the</strong> pro<strong>fit</strong>s from those pota<strong>to</strong>es<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />

6<br />

taking a second look at <strong>the</strong>ir bags of chips, realizing not only that <strong>the</strong>y’re bad for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

bodies, but that <strong>the</strong> GM soybean oil in which <strong>the</strong>y’re fried could also be damaging <strong>the</strong><br />

environment, and that it’s not family farmers who are making <strong>the</strong> pro<strong>fit</strong>s from those<br />

pota<strong>to</strong>es. Our generation will have <strong>to</strong> deal with <strong>the</strong>se consequences, and it’s up <strong>to</strong> us<br />

<strong>to</strong> change <strong>the</strong> direction things are going.<br />

One of <strong>the</strong> major criticisms faced by <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> is that it is elitist. It is a fac<strong>to</strong>r in<br />

alienating youth from <strong>the</strong> organization. It can seem like participation is only open <strong>to</strong><br />

those who have <strong>the</strong> means <strong>to</strong> care that much about good <strong>food</strong>, while many people<br />

struggle just <strong>to</strong> put something nutritious and satisfying on <strong>the</strong> table. <strong>The</strong>re is an<br />

obvious discrepancy between <strong>the</strong> tastes and habits of younger and older people, and<br />

as <strong>the</strong> current makeup of convivia suggests, <strong>the</strong> older generations are determining<br />

what <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> stands for in practice. Though our tastes are becoming more refined,<br />

for most of us, our idea of “artisanal” and “local” is a vegetarian calzone from <strong>the</strong><br />

nearest pizza joint, and we usu<strong>all</strong>y sip our Two-Buck Chuck out of plastic cups and<br />

coffee mugs. Expensive dinners, specialty wine tastings, and artisanal showcases<br />

are a <strong>to</strong>ugher sell. <strong>The</strong> values of good, clean, and fair <strong>food</strong> for <strong>all</strong> may remain in <strong>the</strong><br />

consciousness of convivia, but democratic ideals are difficult <strong>to</strong> attain when such a<br />

sm<strong>all</strong> section of <strong>the</strong> population is able <strong>to</strong> get involved.<br />

This is why youth are so important <strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> at this time. Many of us have<br />

more than just an excess of energy and undiminished optimism. Without <strong>to</strong>o many<br />

obligations keeping us in one place, we are free <strong>to</strong> roam and gain valuable first-hand<br />

experiences. We are eager <strong>to</strong> try out new things such as farming and cooking. We are<br />

also children of <strong>the</strong> technological age, so online networking is a cinch. We want <strong>to</strong><br />

know what people in o<strong>the</strong>r parts of <strong>the</strong> world are doing and <strong>to</strong> exchange knowledge<br />

and ideas with <strong>the</strong>m. Already we are building a network<br />

focused on youth and <strong>food</strong> systems, one which aims <strong>to</strong> be as<br />

inclusive as possible: this means involving not just students,<br />

Siv Lie is a student at<br />

Bos<strong>to</strong>n University by day<br />

nad a pastry chef at night.<br />

Youth leaders at <strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong><br />

<strong>Food</strong> International Congress in<br />

Puebla, Mexico


ut young farmers, chefs, and o<strong>the</strong>r players in <strong>food</strong> communities worldwide.<br />

Obviously, <strong>the</strong> concept of global awareness and engagement is nothing<br />

new <strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong>. However, what makes youth so essential <strong>to</strong> advancing this<br />

global community is our incentive <strong>to</strong> push beyond ideology. We have little <strong>to</strong><br />

lose in confronting <strong>the</strong> forces that oppose us and in experimenting with new<br />

projects. We are extremely creative in working with limited resources and are<br />

determined <strong>to</strong> make “real <strong>food</strong>” more accessible <strong>to</strong> a wider population. We<br />

trust and value <strong>the</strong> wisdom of those more experienced than us, and we take<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir guidance and examples in<strong>to</strong> account as we undertake immediate, wellplanned<br />

action. We are at <strong>the</strong> same time idealistic and realistic, acknowledging<br />

that <strong>the</strong>re are better ways of producing <strong>food</strong>, but that modern lifestyles and<br />

ingrained ways of thinking must be considered.<br />

Worldviews are, of course, one of <strong>the</strong> most difficult barriers <strong>to</strong> face in<br />

bringing about <strong>the</strong>se kinds of changes. Even among <strong>the</strong> brightest and most<br />

forward-thinking young minds, <strong>the</strong>re is much resistance <strong>to</strong> change for a<br />

number of reasons. It takes courage <strong>to</strong> accept <strong>the</strong> realities of our <strong>food</strong> systems,<br />

and it’s easy <strong>to</strong> ignore <strong>the</strong> current and potential ramifications of <strong>the</strong> way we<br />

Continued on page 21<br />

Greener Pastures<br />

Organic dairy does a student body good<br />

— By Noelle Ferdon<br />

<strong>The</strong> consumer demand for organic and rBGH-free<br />

milk has risen <strong>to</strong> <strong>all</strong> time highs in <strong>the</strong> United States.<br />

Fortunately, <strong>the</strong> interest in producing milk <strong>to</strong> meet this<br />

higher quality standard has risen <strong>to</strong>o. At <strong>the</strong> same time,<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is a new generation of milk producers learning<br />

hands-on organic techniques, thanks <strong>to</strong> a new organic<br />

dairy at California State University, Chico (CSUC).<br />

In spring 2007 CSUC opened <strong>the</strong> campus-based Center<br />

for Organic Dairy Production, only <strong>the</strong> second of its kind<br />

in <strong>the</strong> country. After meeting Tony Azevedo, an organic<br />

dairyman in <strong>the</strong> San Joaquin v<strong>all</strong>ey, and hearing his<br />

s<strong>to</strong>ry about going organic, Dr. Cindy Daley, direc<strong>to</strong>r of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Center, was convinced that going organic was a wise<br />

decision for <strong>the</strong> future success of <strong>the</strong> program. Dr. Daley<br />

has worked <strong>to</strong> convert 85 acres of land at <strong>the</strong> Chico State<br />

Farm, as it is known loc<strong>all</strong>y, <strong>to</strong> certified organic pasture,<br />

where students can graze a sm<strong>all</strong> herd. With <strong>the</strong> campuswide<br />

commitment <strong>to</strong> sustainability, <strong>the</strong> timing was<br />

perfect for <strong>the</strong> dairy program <strong>to</strong> go organic.<br />

However, it takes more than just teaching students<br />

organic methods <strong>to</strong> make organic a long-term and viable<br />

option for <strong>the</strong> dairy: <strong>the</strong> milk has <strong>to</strong> go somewhere!<br />

Fortunately, <strong>the</strong> dairy program was able <strong>to</strong> forge a<br />

partnership with Organic V<strong>all</strong>ey, a nationwide cooperative<br />

of organic milk producers. Organic V<strong>all</strong>ey began in 1988<br />

as a farmer-owned cooperative that serves sm<strong>all</strong> farmers<br />

by providing a cooperative approach <strong>to</strong> purchasing and<br />

marketing. <strong>The</strong> CSUC dairy pools its milk with o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

organic producers in <strong>the</strong> western region, which is <strong>the</strong>n<br />

sold under <strong>the</strong> Organic V<strong>all</strong>ey label or used <strong>to</strong> make valueadded<br />

products like cheese or butter. This partnership<br />

is a win-win situation for <strong>the</strong> new generation of organic<br />

sm<strong>all</strong>-scale farmers as well as conscientious consumers.<br />

<strong>The</strong> local convivium in Chico, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Shasta<br />

Cascade (SFSC), was also thrilled about <strong>the</strong> new organic<br />

dairy. When <strong>the</strong> Eat Well Guided Tour of America, hosted<br />

by Sustainable Table and <strong>Food</strong> & Water Watch, came<br />

through Chico in July 2007, SFSC immediately planned a<br />

s<strong>to</strong>p <strong>the</strong>re. On a sunny summer morning, SFSC leaders<br />

and members got on <strong>the</strong> bus and headed out <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Chico<br />

State Farm. It was just what one would expect from a<br />

visit <strong>to</strong> an organic dairy—happy, healthy cows munching<br />

on green pasture. <strong>The</strong> community is proud <strong>to</strong> see our<br />

state university contribute <strong>to</strong> a regional, sustainable <strong>food</strong><br />

system that is good, clean, and fair, while also educating a<br />

new generation of leaders in organic <strong>food</strong> production.<br />

Noelle Ferdon is a founding member and co-leader of <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Shasta<br />

Cascade, <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rnmost convivium in California. Noelle is a Senior<br />

Organizer of <strong>Food</strong> Campaigns in California for <strong>Food</strong> & Water Watch. For<br />

more information, contact Noelle Ferdon at nferdon@fwwatch.org<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />

7


grew up on a sm<strong>all</strong>-scale organic farm, but I was new<br />

I <strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> when I matriculated at Prince<strong>to</strong>n in 2004.<br />

That f<strong>all</strong> I participated in Terra Madre, and I returned<br />

determined <strong>to</strong> make <strong>food</strong> and agriculture an integral part<br />

of my education. But Prince<strong>to</strong>n offered not one course on<br />

sustainable <strong>food</strong> and agriculture. With faculty modera<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Deborah Popper, I created a seminar <strong>to</strong> address that<br />

oversight. —Kathryn Andersen<br />

Farm <strong>to</strong> Fork: America’s <strong>Food</strong> System Today<br />

Abbreviated Syllabus<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />

8<br />

Class 1: <strong>The</strong> Human Relationship <strong>to</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />

An introduction <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> relationship between humans and<br />

<strong>food</strong>, how culture affects what we eat<br />

E.N. Anderson, Everyone Eats: Understanding <strong>Food</strong> and<br />

Culture; M.F.K. Fisher, “<strong>The</strong> Arts (Fine and Culinary) of<br />

Nineteenth Century America,” New York Times<br />

Class 2: <strong>The</strong> Omnivorous American<br />

<strong>The</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>food</strong> in America leading up <strong>to</strong> our present diet<br />

and how <strong>the</strong> first Americans ate<br />

Michael Pollan, <strong>The</strong> Omnivore’s Dilemma; Sandra Oliver,<br />

“Eating Habits,” <strong>Food</strong> in Colonial and Federal America<br />

<strong>the</strong> United States<br />

Speaker: Sandra Oliver, <strong>food</strong> his<strong>to</strong>rian<br />

Class 3: Agriculture and Agrarian Society<br />

American agricultural his<strong>to</strong>ry from <strong>the</strong> perspective of an<br />

agricultural economist<br />

Bruce L. Gardner, American Agriculture in <strong>the</strong> Twentieth<br />

Century: How it Flourished and What It Cost<br />

Speaker: Mikey Azzarra, NOFA-NJ<br />

Class 4: Transportation and Distribution in a Global<br />

<strong>Food</strong> System<br />

<strong>The</strong> structure of our national <strong>food</strong> system and <strong>the</strong><br />

organization of <strong>the</strong> commodity chain<br />

Donna Gabaccia, “As American as Budweiser and<br />

Pickles: Nation-Building in American <strong>Food</strong> Industries,”<br />

<strong>Food</strong> Nations: Selling Taste in Consumer Societies<br />

Comparison of different products from Whole Earth<br />

Center, Whole <strong>Food</strong>s, Wegmans, SuperFresh, and Wawa<br />

Class 5: Organic Agriculture and <strong>the</strong> Environment<br />

<strong>The</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>the</strong> organic movement from <strong>the</strong> Rodale<br />

Institute and biodynamic agriculture <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> creation of USDA<br />

labelling; “big” and “sm<strong>all</strong>” organic<br />

Samuel Fromartz, Organic, Inc.: Natural <strong>Food</strong>s and<br />

How <strong>The</strong>y Grew; Mrill Ingram, Stephen L. Buchmann,<br />

and Gary Nabhan, <strong>The</strong> Forgotten Pollina<strong>to</strong>rs<br />

Speakers: Hansjakob Werlen, Swarthmore College,<br />

co-leader of <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Philadelphia; Ruth Reichl,<br />

edi<strong>to</strong>r of Gourmet<br />

FIELD TRIP S<strong>to</strong>ne Barns Center for <strong>Food</strong> and<br />

Agriculture, Pocantico Hills, New York, meet with<br />

Dan Barber<br />

Class 6: <strong>The</strong> Fac<strong>to</strong>ry Farm and Industrialization<br />

<strong>The</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry farm, conventional <strong>food</strong>, and fast <strong>food</strong><br />

Up<strong>to</strong>n Sinclair, <strong>The</strong> Jungle; Peter Singer, Animal Liberation<br />

and <strong>The</strong> Way We Eat; Eric Schlosser, Fast <strong>Food</strong> Nation<br />

Speaker: Josh Balk, Outreach Direc<strong>to</strong>r of <strong>the</strong> Fac<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

Farming Campaign at <strong>the</strong> Humane Society<br />

Class 7: Government Regulations I: <strong>Food</strong> Politics<br />

Lobbyists and farm subsidies in <strong>the</strong> United States, <strong>the</strong><br />

upcoming Farm Bill<br />

Marion Nestle, <strong>Food</strong> Politics<br />

FIELD TRIP Tour of Cherry Grove Farm, Terhune Orchard<br />

Class 8: Government Regulations II: Safety,<br />

Labeling, and GMOs<br />

<strong>The</strong> debate over genetic<strong>all</strong>y-modified <strong>food</strong>, government<br />

regulation in <strong>food</strong> production, and labels<br />

Peter Pringle, <strong>Food</strong>, Inc.; Michael Pollan, <strong>The</strong> Botany of<br />

Desire<br />

Film: “<strong>The</strong> Future of <strong>Food</strong>”<br />

Speakers: Carl Pray, Professor at Rutgers; Xenia Morin,<br />

Lecturer at Prince<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Class 9: Nutrition I: Obesity of Epidemic Proportions<br />

HFCS and palm oil, portion size increases, and school lunches<br />

Kelly Brownell, <strong>Food</strong> Fight: <strong>The</strong> Inside S<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />

Industry, America’s Obesity Crisis, and What We Can Do<br />

About It<br />

Speaker: Elyse Pivnick, Isles of Tren<strong>to</strong>n, NJ<br />

Class 10: Nutrition II: Real <strong>Food</strong><br />

What should we eat?<br />

Nina Planck, Real <strong>Food</strong><br />

Speakers: Chef Ann Cooper, Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Nutrition<br />

Services for Berkeley Unified School District (BUSD);<br />

Gary Giberson, Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Dining Services at <strong>the</strong><br />

Lawrenceville School<br />

Class 11: <strong>The</strong> Future of <strong>Food</strong><br />

How America’s <strong>food</strong> system should and could change<br />

in <strong>the</strong> future<br />

Warren Belasco, Meals <strong>to</strong> Come<br />

FIELD TRIP: Tour of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Network, visit Jeffrey<br />

Steingarten<br />

Class 12: Pleasure in Eating<br />

<strong>Food</strong> on one’s plate: gastronomy, conviviality, and pleasure in<br />

sharing a meal<br />

M.F.K. Fisher, “Savoring Winter,” New York Times<br />

Speaker: Craig Laban, restaurant critic from <strong>the</strong><br />

Philadelphia Inquirer


Teaching <strong>the</strong> Next Generation of Eaters<br />

— By Richard Villadóniga<br />

How <strong>to</strong> get middle schoolers <strong>to</strong> think about <strong>food</strong><br />

remember reading Fast <strong>Food</strong> Nation for <strong>the</strong><br />

I first time and thinking <strong>to</strong> myself that I had<br />

<strong>to</strong> share it with my students. I wanted each of<br />

<strong>the</strong>m <strong>to</strong> know exactly what was going on each<br />

time <strong>the</strong>y ingested ano<strong>the</strong>r so-c<strong>all</strong>ed “Happy”<br />

Meal. Apparently I was not alone; Eric Schlosser<br />

followed up with a children’s version c<strong>all</strong>ed Chew<br />

On This: Everything You Don’t Want <strong>to</strong> Know About<br />

Fast <strong>Food</strong>.<br />

As a middle school social studies teacher I<br />

know firsthand that getting kids <strong>to</strong> think about<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> <strong>the</strong>y are eating, what’s in it, and where<br />

it comes from is no easy task—especi<strong>all</strong>y at this<br />

age. <strong>The</strong>y are beyond <strong>the</strong> point where having<br />

<strong>the</strong>m simply grow a few sprouts of anything<br />

in a sm<strong>all</strong> pot will re<strong>all</strong>y mean something <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>m, but <strong>the</strong>y are not quite at <strong>the</strong> intellectual<br />

level of high school students when it comes <strong>to</strong><br />

having a provocative discussion. Sometimes it<br />

takes potty humor <strong>to</strong> get middle schoolers <strong>to</strong><br />

pay attention, and you must always be energetic<br />

and entertaining, but with Chew On This, I could<br />

read one gripping passage after ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> my<br />

students—you could hear a pin drop—and I<br />

could follow <strong>the</strong>m up with good discussions on<br />

how it <strong>all</strong> related <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir lives and diets. It’s a<br />

magnificent <strong>to</strong>ol <strong>to</strong> capture my students’ interest<br />

and a great segue in<strong>to</strong> my annual <strong>food</strong> unit.<br />

Over a period of two <strong>to</strong> three weeks, my<br />

students read <strong>the</strong> latest articles on sustainable<br />

farming and answer critical thinking questions<br />

about what <strong>the</strong>y read. We talk about <strong>the</strong> types of<br />

things <strong>the</strong>y eat in a typical week. I bring in <strong>food</strong><br />

and <strong>the</strong>y try <strong>to</strong> guess where it was produced—<br />

mangoes from Mexico, walnuts from California,<br />

pasta from Italy, etc. We are pretty fortunate <strong>to</strong><br />

live in nor<strong>the</strong>ast Florida, where a long growing<br />

season and a tradition of agriculture <strong>all</strong>ow us <strong>to</strong><br />

produce many crops throughout <strong>the</strong> year, so I<br />

am sure <strong>to</strong> include local <strong>food</strong>s (such as pota<strong>to</strong>es,<br />

cabbage, and datil peppers) in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> mix. I drive<br />

home <strong>the</strong> point that <strong>the</strong> average American meal<br />

travels 1,500 miles from farm <strong>to</strong> table and that this<br />

distance has great ecological, economic, and social<br />

consequences. <strong>Slow</strong>ly but surely, <strong>the</strong> concept of<br />

eating loc<strong>all</strong>y and in accordance with <strong>the</strong> seasons<br />

begins <strong>to</strong> sink in. Though I may not make converts<br />

of <strong>the</strong>m <strong>all</strong>, by midway through <strong>the</strong> unit, most of<br />

<strong>the</strong>m are at least questioning <strong>the</strong>ir own diets and<br />

<strong>the</strong> relationship <strong>the</strong>y never knew <strong>the</strong>y had with<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir <strong>food</strong> and <strong>the</strong> people who produce it.<br />

We also talk about <strong>the</strong> problems of <strong>the</strong><br />

mainstream approach <strong>to</strong> <strong>food</strong> production, such as<br />

<strong>the</strong> alarming use of child slaves in African cacao<br />

plantations, and alternatives (fair trade chocolate,<br />

for example). This re<strong>all</strong>y gets <strong>the</strong> kids thinking.<br />

(“<strong>The</strong>y use child slaves <strong>to</strong> make my chocolate bar?<br />

What can we do about this?”)<br />

I try <strong>to</strong> make <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> unit personal. I show<br />

a pho<strong>to</strong>-presentation of <strong>the</strong> 15,000-mile road<br />

trip I <strong>to</strong>ok across <strong>the</strong> US last summer during<br />

which I documented endangered <strong>food</strong>s and <strong>food</strong><br />

traditions and <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ries of <strong>the</strong> individuals that<br />

are working <strong>to</strong> preserve <strong>the</strong>m. We analyze our<br />

We analyze our own<br />

school cafeteria menus<br />

and circle <strong>the</strong> items that<br />

were produced loc<strong>all</strong>y,<br />

in season, and that sound<br />

nutritious; <strong>the</strong>re aren’t <strong>to</strong>o<br />

many circles on <strong>the</strong> page<br />

when we are done<br />

own school cafeteria menus and circle <strong>the</strong> items<br />

that were produced in Florida, those that are in<br />

season, and <strong>the</strong> ones that sound nutritious. As<br />

you can imagine, <strong>the</strong>re aren’t <strong>to</strong>o many circles<br />

on <strong>the</strong> page when we are done with <strong>the</strong> exercise.<br />

<strong>The</strong> culminating assignment of <strong>the</strong> unit is for<br />

my students <strong>to</strong> write a five-paragraph persuasive<br />

letter <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> school cafeteria manager urging<br />

her <strong>to</strong> incorporate more local, seasonal, organic<br />

<strong>food</strong> in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> school menus. This conveniently<br />

happens <strong>to</strong> be a great way for my students <strong>to</strong> hone<br />

<strong>the</strong> critical thinking and writing skills that are<br />

measured in our state’s standardized tests.<br />

Fin<strong>all</strong>y, as a treat at <strong>the</strong> end, we watch <strong>the</strong><br />

education<strong>all</strong>y enhanced version of “Supersize Me”<br />

<strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r and I get <strong>to</strong> witness not only Morgan<br />

Spurlock’s incredible transformation, but that of<br />

my students from ignorant eaters <strong>to</strong> informed<br />

ones. And that’s what teaching is <strong>all</strong> about.<br />

Richard Villadóniga is a geography teacher in St. Johns County,<br />

Florida. He is <strong>the</strong> convivium leader of <strong>the</strong> recently founded First<br />

Coast convivium. Read about his Endangered <strong>Food</strong>s Tour at www.<br />

eat-american.com.<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />

9


Would You Like Some Justice with That?<br />

—By Candelario Vazquez<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />

10<br />

Students and farmworkers band<br />

<strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> fight fast <strong>food</strong> giants<br />

grew up on North Second Street,<br />

I between <strong>the</strong> park and Main Street,<br />

in Immokalee, Florida. Growing up,<br />

my bro<strong>the</strong>r and sister used <strong>to</strong> say<br />

that as <strong>the</strong> youngest child in my<br />

family, I was not as immersed in<br />

farm work as <strong>the</strong>y were. This didn’t<br />

mean, though, that I was sheltered<br />

from <strong>the</strong> injustices taking place in<br />

my community: backbreaking labor<br />

for wages that hadn’t risen in over 20<br />

years, no respect for human rights<br />

and dignity in <strong>the</strong> fields, and no right<br />

<strong>to</strong> organize in order <strong>to</strong> change <strong>the</strong>se<br />

conditions.<br />

This reality, along with <strong>the</strong><br />

knowledge of <strong>the</strong> many sacrifices<br />

my farmworker parents had made<br />

for me, was what led me <strong>to</strong> join <strong>the</strong><br />

Coalition of Immokalee Workers<br />

(CIW) in <strong>the</strong>ir struggle <strong>to</strong> change <strong>the</strong><br />

status quo of physical abuse and<br />

wage <strong>the</strong>ft in <strong>the</strong> Florida agriculture<br />

industry. During <strong>the</strong> winter of<br />

1995, my sister Lupita and I got up<br />

early on many mornings <strong>to</strong> join<br />

<strong>the</strong> farmworkers in <strong>the</strong>ir general strike. Though<br />

I was <strong>to</strong>o young <strong>to</strong> understand what it meant<br />

<strong>to</strong> hold signs and yell at <strong>the</strong> bosses in <strong>the</strong>ir big<br />

trucks, I knew it felt good. Later on in <strong>the</strong> day, my<br />

sister would often get sent home from school for<br />

refusing <strong>to</strong> take off her signs demanding better<br />

working conditions for farmworkers because some<br />

teachers deemed <strong>the</strong>m “offensive.” At <strong>the</strong> same<br />

time, my fa<strong>the</strong>r lay bedridden, sick from cancer<br />

caused by years of pesticide exposure.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> years that followed, <strong>the</strong> CIW expanded<br />

its focus from <strong>the</strong> Florida agricultural industry<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> fast <strong>food</strong> industry, which for decades has<br />

used its power and leverage <strong>to</strong> demand cheap<br />

produce, translating directly in<strong>to</strong> lower wages and<br />

poorer working conditions for <strong>the</strong> workers picking<br />

that produce. I spent my breaks from high school<br />

participating in <strong>to</strong>urs and marches across Florida,<br />

and during <strong>the</strong> course of those actions met with<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r students from my state who were also<br />

concerned with issues of human rights, dignity,<br />

and fairness for <strong>the</strong> workers putting <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />

<strong>The</strong> fast <strong>food</strong> industry<br />

for decades has used<br />

its power and leverage<br />

<strong>to</strong> demand cheap<br />

produce, translating<br />

directly in<strong>to</strong> lower<br />

wages and poorer<br />

working conditions for<br />

<strong>the</strong> workers picking<br />

that produce<br />

on <strong>the</strong> tables of this country. Out of <strong>the</strong>se initial<br />

meetings, a decentralized solidarity network of<br />

students and youth quickly spread from Florida <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> entire country, and <strong>the</strong> Student/Farmworker<br />

Alliance (SFA) was born.<br />

In 2001, <strong>the</strong> CIW launched a national boycott of<br />

Taco Bell, demanding that <strong>the</strong> company pay just<br />

one more penny per pound for <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es it<br />

purchased and work with <strong>the</strong> CIW <strong>to</strong> implement<br />

a code of conduct that would respect workers’<br />

human rights in <strong>the</strong> fields. During <strong>the</strong> boycott,<br />

<strong>the</strong> participation of students and youth was<br />

crucial, as young people sent a clear message<br />

of dissatisfaction <strong>to</strong> Taco Bell by successfully<br />

removing or preventing Taco Bell restaurants or<br />

sponsorships from 22 different high school and<br />

college campuses. <strong>The</strong> boycott came <strong>to</strong> an end<br />

in 2005 when Taco Bell agreed <strong>to</strong> <strong>all</strong> of <strong>the</strong> CIW’s<br />

demands, and a similar agreement was reached<br />

with McDonald’s and Taco Bell’s parent company,<br />

Yum Brands, in <strong>the</strong> spring of 2007.<br />

<strong>The</strong> agreements with Taco Bell, Yum Brands,


Candelario Vazquez grew<br />

up in a migrant farmworking<br />

family whose struggles<br />

led him <strong>to</strong> develop a great<br />

passion for social justice.<br />

He is an Immokalee<br />

native and a member of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Student/Farmworker<br />

Alliance.<br />

and McDonald’s have proven that <strong>the</strong>re is a real hope <strong>to</strong> fin<strong>all</strong>y<br />

modernize and improve conditions in US agriculture, but <strong>the</strong> CIW’s<br />

Campaign for Fair <strong>Food</strong> continues. While fast <strong>food</strong> corporations and<br />

grocery megachains report ever-increasing sales and pro<strong>fit</strong> margins,<br />

<strong>the</strong> farmworkers responsible for picking <strong>the</strong>ir fruits and vegetables<br />

receive piece rates that remain stagnant, now for nearly 30 years. In<br />

<strong>the</strong> most extreme cases, workers <strong>to</strong>il under conditions of modernday<br />

slavery. And o<strong>the</strong>r companies, such as Burger King, still stand in <strong>the</strong> way of continued<br />

progress. Even Whole <strong>Food</strong>s—a chain whose own philosophy proclaims unpar<strong>all</strong>eled support<br />

of sustainable agriculture and whose “Whole Trade Guarantee” pledges <strong>to</strong> ensure, among o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

things, “better wages and working conditions for workers,”—has refused <strong>to</strong> work with <strong>the</strong> CIW.<br />

This doesn’t worry me, however. <strong>Slow</strong>ly but surely, <strong>the</strong> consciousness that began <strong>to</strong> rise in<br />

Immokalee in <strong>the</strong> nearly ‘90s will continue <strong>to</strong> grow, and students and youth will continue <strong>to</strong> be<br />

a powerful voice in this movement. I invite young people <strong>to</strong> learn more about my community,<br />

our struggle, and how our actions can lead <strong>to</strong> a better world.<br />

Cultivating Co-producers<br />

— By Ed Yowell<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> NYC’s educational series<br />

OK, it doesn’t re<strong>all</strong>y mean “<strong>Slow</strong> University,” it means <strong>Slow</strong> YOU. SLOW U is an ongoing<br />

series of convivial, educational seminars aimed at helping each of us become a<br />

responsible eater, contributing <strong>to</strong>, and savoring, <strong>the</strong> good, clean, and fair <strong>food</strong> chain that <strong>Slow</strong><br />

<strong>Food</strong> supports. It’s been said that we can vote for a sustainable <strong>food</strong> system with every <strong>food</strong><br />

dollar we spend. SLOW U strives <strong>to</strong> make us more educated voters.<br />

Every month or two, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> NYC sponsors a two-hour seminar featuring <strong>food</strong> providers,<br />

scholars, writers, activists, and <strong>the</strong> like, who speak about <strong>to</strong>pics germane <strong>to</strong> a slow <strong>food</strong> chain.<br />

For instance, we have had authors Sherri Brooks Vin<strong>to</strong>n and Lorna Sass talk respectively about<br />

<strong>the</strong> everyday ch<strong>all</strong>enges of sustainable eating and <strong>the</strong> environmental and health bene<strong>fit</strong>s of<br />

eating more whole grains (and less meat). <strong>Food</strong> activist Fern Gale Estrow talked about <strong>the</strong><br />

politics and impact of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Food</strong> and Farm Bill. Seminars include question and answer periods<br />

and, of course, slow <strong>food</strong> and drink.<br />

Most recently, Vancouverites James MacKinnon and Alisa Smith, authors of Plenty<br />

(published in <strong>the</strong>ir native Canada as <strong>The</strong> Hundred Mile Diet), delivered an entertaining and<br />

informative account of <strong>the</strong>ir year-long adventure eating and drinking only what was grown,<br />

raised, hunted, or foraged within 100 miles of <strong>the</strong>ir Vancouver home. An intense but amiable<br />

discussion followed <strong>the</strong>ir talk, with folks lined up for and against various aspects of <strong>the</strong><br />

concept. (Is it better <strong>to</strong> drink local wine produced from grapes grown convention<strong>all</strong>y or organic<br />

wines flown in from Chile? During <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>ast winter, is it better <strong>to</strong> eat local greens grown<br />

in an upstate greenhouse and trucked <strong>to</strong> New York City or greens flown in from <strong>the</strong> sunny<br />

southwest or no greens at <strong>all</strong>?) While nothing was settled, we enjoyed local hard cider, local<br />

farmstead cheese, and bread and lavash, baked loc<strong>all</strong>y using loc<strong>all</strong>y milled flour from loc<strong>all</strong>y<br />

grown wheat, <strong>all</strong> points of origin having been Googled diligently beforehand.<br />

With ticket prices low, SLOW U seminars are gener<strong>all</strong>y sold out, at about 30 <strong>to</strong> 40 seats. Our<br />

venues are inexpensive or donated. Speakers most often donate <strong>the</strong>ir time. <strong>Food</strong> and drink are<br />

not <strong>the</strong> primary purpose, so servings are of tasting size.<br />

Topics and speakers are not so hard <strong>to</strong> find. Many <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> members are also members<br />

of local <strong>food</strong> networks, being <strong>food</strong> providers, scholars, writers, or activists, or <strong>the</strong>y know <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

Gener<strong>all</strong>y, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> members account for half of SLOW U participation, with non-members<br />

constituting <strong>the</strong> balance. Thus, SLOW U is a way <strong>to</strong> meet and influence new friends.<br />

Future SLOW U seminars include: Pastured Meats: Good for <strong>the</strong> planet, <strong>the</strong> animals, and<br />

<strong>the</strong> eaters; <strong>The</strong> Urban Chicken: Laying hens in city community gardens; and <strong>Food</strong> and Faith:<br />

Religion and a good, clean, and fair <strong>food</strong> chain.<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />

11


Fishing Classes for Everyone<br />

— By David Szan<strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />

12<br />

UNISG and viral education<br />

It’s widely agreed that education is a good<br />

thing, particularly in <strong>the</strong> world of <strong>food</strong>, and<br />

that it leads <strong>to</strong> empowerment and positive<br />

change through greater understanding. But<br />

what is education, exactly? Is it putting stuff in<br />

your brain, or realizing behaviors that that stuff<br />

engenders? Is it form<strong>all</strong>y defined, classroom-style<br />

teaching, or an ongoing and multidirectional<br />

social process?<br />

<strong>The</strong> University of Gastronomic Sciences<br />

(UNISG, co-founded by <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> in 2003) has<br />

developed a model that seems <strong>to</strong> make education<br />

very much part of an ongoing cycle. And judging<br />

from <strong>the</strong> roles alumni have started <strong>to</strong> adopt,<br />

it is about both brain stuff and behavior. North<br />

American graduates are increasingly trickling<br />

forth and becoming educa<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>the</strong>mselves—as<br />

writers, teachers, consultants, even salespeople.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y pass <strong>the</strong>ir learning on and inspire o<strong>the</strong>rs <strong>to</strong><br />

do <strong>the</strong> same, creating what might best be c<strong>all</strong>ed<br />

“viral education.” Just as contemporary marketers<br />

realize, virality can create geometric growth,<br />

which applies just as well <strong>to</strong> making change in<br />

Graduates are trickling forth and becoming<br />

educa<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>the</strong>mselves—as writers, teachers,<br />

consultants, and even salespeople<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> system as it does <strong>to</strong> making consumers<br />

open <strong>the</strong>ir w<strong>all</strong>ets. If, as <strong>the</strong> adage goes, teaching<br />

people <strong>to</strong> fish <strong>all</strong>ows <strong>the</strong>m <strong>to</strong> eat for a lifetime,<br />

imagine what teaching people <strong>to</strong> teach people <strong>to</strong><br />

fish can do.<br />

In Italian, <strong>the</strong> word maleduca<strong>to</strong> means not<br />

“uneducated,” but “rude” or “ill-mannered” (not<br />

unlike <strong>the</strong> colloquial meaning of “ignorant” in<br />

English). <strong>The</strong> notion that not knowing can lead<br />

<strong>to</strong> not behaving acceptably becomes particularly<br />

intriguing in <strong>food</strong> culture: We don’t know<br />

where our <strong>food</strong> comes from, so we make poor<br />

consumption choices. We don’t remember our<br />

<strong>food</strong> heritage, so we let industrial producers<br />

fill our minds with manufactured meaning. We<br />

don’t understand <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> chain, so we opt for<br />

sm<strong>all</strong>er price tags and slough off hidden costs <strong>to</strong><br />

producers, <strong>the</strong> environment, and minimum<br />

wage earners.<br />

<strong>The</strong> UNISG learning experience creates a<br />

kind of paradigm shift about <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> system<br />

as a whole. By studying anthropology and<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry at <strong>the</strong> same time as packaging design<br />

and biochemistry and <strong>the</strong>n going in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

field for hands-on study, future gastronomes<br />

become hard-wired for complexity. <strong>Food</strong> is no<br />

longer simple <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>m, which creates a need <strong>to</strong><br />

communicate that message.<br />

Daniel Winans, a graduate of <strong>the</strong> master<br />

program in <strong>food</strong> culture and communications,<br />

is now at <strong>the</strong> University of New Hampshire,<br />

lecturing on International <strong>Food</strong> and Culture and<br />

helping <strong>to</strong> develop <strong>the</strong>ir new Eco-Gastronomy<br />

joint major. O<strong>the</strong>r master alums, Canadian<br />

Don Genova and Italian Carlo Baggi, have<br />

been hired <strong>to</strong> teach courses in <strong>food</strong> culture<br />

and gastronomy—Don at British Columbia’s<br />

University of Vic<strong>to</strong>ria and Carlo in <strong>the</strong> culinary<br />

program at Chattahoochee Technical College in<br />

Marietta, Georgia.<br />

But viral education isn’t just happening in<br />

academic settings. At Murray’s Cheese in New<br />

York, Taylor Cocalis runs a program that trains<br />

thousands of consumers a year on <strong>the</strong> sensory<br />

qualities of cheeses, olive<br />

oils, honey, and beer (among<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r products). Along <strong>the</strong><br />

way, instruc<strong>to</strong>rs slide in a<br />

little geography here, a little<br />

<strong>food</strong> politics <strong>the</strong>re. Across <strong>the</strong> Atlantic, in Wales,<br />

former farmer Tom Bean teaches local <strong>food</strong><br />

traditions through <strong>the</strong>ater programs with <strong>the</strong><br />

Sm<strong>all</strong> World <strong>The</strong>atre company, and in Italy’s<br />

Le Marche region, U.S. expat Dwight Stanford<br />

owns and operates an agriturismo where he<br />

teaches guests about local wine varietals and<br />

pecorino cheeses.<br />

Clearly it’s not only a <strong>food</strong> studies school in Italy<br />

that can inspire learners <strong>to</strong> teach, nor are <strong>the</strong>se<br />

alumni <strong>the</strong> only six <strong>to</strong> be inspired. Everyone with<br />

a passion for sharing what <strong>the</strong>y know and what<br />

<strong>the</strong>y do is part of <strong>the</strong> trend—whe<strong>the</strong>r on listservs,<br />

in classrooms, or across a <strong>food</strong> shop counter. So<br />

although “viral education” may not be <strong>the</strong> loveliest<br />

expression, if you consider <strong>the</strong> potential impact,<br />

it paints a pretty nifty picture. Rec<strong>all</strong> <strong>the</strong> classic<br />

Fabergé Organics shampoo commercials (“and<br />

she <strong>to</strong>ld two friends, and so on, and so on…”), and<br />

that’s an awful lot of heads filled up with more<br />

than just wheat-germ oil and honey.


Sustainable U.<br />

Higher ed heads for a future of better <strong>food</strong><br />

It takes a long time <strong>to</strong> turn a big ship, but in <strong>the</strong><br />

sea of land grant institutions <strong>the</strong> University of<br />

Kentucky College of Agriculture is steering with an<br />

ever-quickening pace <strong>to</strong>wards sustainability.<br />

Back in 1995 a group of UK professors and private<br />

citizens, including Wendell Berry, formed Partners for<br />

Family Farms <strong>to</strong> support sm<strong>all</strong> diversified farms. Sail<br />

ahead <strong>to</strong> 2006 when Agriculture Dean Scott Smith<br />

and Associate Dean of Research Nancy Cox decided <strong>to</strong><br />

send three representatives <strong>to</strong> Terra Madre: academics<br />

Mark Williams, associate professor of horticulture,<br />

and Bonnie Tanner, retired<br />

college administra<strong>to</strong>r, both<br />

presented research papers<br />

at <strong>the</strong> event; I attended as a<br />

representative of <strong>the</strong> college’s<br />

newly created <strong>Food</strong> Systems<br />

Initiative. <strong>The</strong> three of us are<br />

charter members of <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />

Bluegrass and passionately<br />

committed <strong>to</strong> local <strong>food</strong>.<br />

Williams championed <strong>the</strong><br />

establishment of a degree<br />

program in Sustainable<br />

Agriculture and established<br />

a 12-acre certified organic<br />

research plot at UK’s<br />

Horticulture Research Farm<br />

near <strong>the</strong> Lexing<strong>to</strong>n campus.<br />

<strong>The</strong> curriculum includes<br />

scientific and philosophical<br />

Od tion hendigna feuguero dolorpero etuer<br />

sustrud doluptat wis acilit lum dolenisi<br />

components of sustainable<br />

agriculture as well as handson<br />

work growing organic vegetables for an on-campus<br />

CSA. In 2007 <strong>the</strong> students conducted research and<br />

harvested more than 230 varieties of produce, fruit,<br />

herbs and flowers and experienced <strong>all</strong> aspects of<br />

operating a CSA.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Systems Initiative was established <strong>to</strong><br />

serve as a single point of entry <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> College of<br />

Agriculture. Through its gateway, producers can tap<br />

in<strong>to</strong> a wealth of knowledge from <strong>the</strong> college’s faculty,<br />

researchers, and specialists <strong>to</strong> support local <strong>food</strong><br />

production, systems, and value-added products. It<br />

also serves as a network hub between <strong>the</strong> college<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Kentucky Department of Agriculture, <strong>the</strong><br />

Kentucky Agricultural Development Board, o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

colleges and universities, and nongovernmental<br />

sustainable agriculture groups and advocates.<br />

— By Bob Perry<br />

On campus, several College of Agriculture faculty<br />

members designed a pilot program that connected<br />

UK <strong>Food</strong> Service with a local vegetable producer and<br />

orchard <strong>to</strong> bring more loc<strong>all</strong>y grown <strong>food</strong> in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

system. One result of this is <strong>the</strong> new <strong>all</strong>-local KY<br />

Proud menu option UK <strong>Food</strong> Service offers through<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir catering division. Perry also teaches <strong>the</strong> Quantity<br />

<strong>Food</strong> Production lab for Nutrition, Dietetics and<br />

Hospitality majors. His students operate <strong>the</strong> Lemon<br />

Tree Café and he has begun <strong>to</strong> incorporate local <strong>food</strong><br />

in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> meals and its importance in<strong>to</strong> his lectures.<br />

Williams, Tanner, and Perry have also collaborated<br />

on several events with Bluegrass convivium leader<br />

Mark Williams, <strong>the</strong> Brown-Forman chef from<br />

Louisville who shares his name and his passion<br />

for sustainability with Professor Mark. Just before<br />

Terra Madre 2006 <strong>the</strong>y held “Chefs Afield” on <strong>the</strong> UK<br />

Horticulture Research Farm where local <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />

chefs prepared a meal for over 100 invited guests<br />

using produce harvested minutes before preparation.<br />

In March 2007 UK sponsored “Growing Kentucky,”<br />

a two-day conference focused on local, sustainable<br />

<strong>food</strong>. Speakers included Wendell Berry, Marion Nestle,<br />

and <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA Executive Direc<strong>to</strong>r Erika Lesser.<br />

As Kentucky’s flagship university sails in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

future, <strong>the</strong> crew from <strong>the</strong> College of Agriculture<br />

committed <strong>to</strong> good, clean, and fair <strong>food</strong> knows it<br />

will take more than just <strong>the</strong>m <strong>to</strong> support a local<br />

sustainable <strong>food</strong> system. <strong>The</strong>y are charting a course<br />

<strong>to</strong> establish a UK student convivium that will involve<br />

young people campuswide from <strong>all</strong> academic<br />

disciplines. After <strong>all</strong>, <strong>the</strong> students are what a<br />

university is ultimately about and empowering <strong>the</strong>m<br />

with <strong>the</strong> knowledge <strong>to</strong>, in Wendell Berry’s words, “eat<br />

responsibly” is an important life lesson.<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />

13


Cooking Outside <strong>the</strong> Classroom<br />

—By Alisa Gaylon<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />

14<br />

As <strong>the</strong> days become<br />

longer and<br />

temperatures increase,<br />

<strong>the</strong> first signs of green<br />

will start <strong>to</strong> dot <strong>the</strong><br />

landscape and push<br />

through <strong>the</strong> ground, and<br />

students will ask, “Can<br />

we please have class<br />

outside <strong>to</strong>day?” Fortunately, for those of us teaching<br />

hospitality and culinary arts, field trips <strong>to</strong> local area<br />

farmers’ markets are an excellent way <strong>to</strong> fulfill students’<br />

requests. This type of outdoor trip can easily be<br />

adapted <strong>to</strong> <strong>fit</strong> in<strong>to</strong> a variety of hospitality and culinary<br />

arts classes, enhance any curriculum’s educational<br />

objectives, and provide a unique way <strong>to</strong> expose students<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> philosophy.<br />

In an introduc<strong>to</strong>ry college prepara<strong>to</strong>ry course<br />

students are ch<strong>all</strong>enged <strong>to</strong> learn about <strong>the</strong>ir local<br />

community and discover cost-effective resources for<br />

college students. <strong>The</strong>se students are encouraged <strong>to</strong><br />

invite <strong>the</strong>ir families as a way <strong>to</strong> build a connection<br />

between <strong>the</strong>ir family meal and <strong>the</strong> family of local<br />

farmers that provides <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong>. Many markets also<br />

feature local chef demonstrations, which are not only<br />

educational, but provide a great opportunity for students<br />

<strong>to</strong> start networking with local<br />

businesses and chefs.<br />

Students in a <strong>food</strong>service<br />

purchasing and cost control<br />

class are assigned <strong>the</strong> task<br />

of comparing ingredient<br />

costs for a recipe between those found at local farmers’<br />

markets and those at large retail grocery chains. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

are also asked <strong>to</strong> consider <strong>the</strong> ecological impact based<br />

on how far <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>food</strong> travels and <strong>the</strong> economic bene<strong>fit</strong><br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> farmer as well as <strong>the</strong> relative quality and shelf<br />

life of <strong>the</strong> produce. Students are forced <strong>to</strong> practice<br />

critical thinking skills when evaluating <strong>the</strong>se costs, and<br />

those that have never purchased produce from farmers’<br />

markets are frequently surprised at <strong>the</strong> relative low<br />

cost and high quality. Most importantly, students gain<br />

insight in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> value of <strong>the</strong>ir purchasing dollars, both<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> farmer and <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> consumer.<br />

While studying menu planning and design, a field<br />

trip <strong>to</strong> a local farmers’ market provides an opportunity<br />

<strong>to</strong> develop local, seasonal menus. A frequent<br />

assignment is a three- or four-course meal using<br />

ingredients found exclusively at <strong>the</strong> farmers’ market.<br />

Culinary students at <strong>the</strong> farmers’ market<br />

<strong>The</strong> lessons <strong>to</strong> be learned<br />

at <strong>the</strong> market are as varied<br />

as <strong>the</strong> produce itself<br />

Students are encouraged <strong>to</strong> be unique and creative<br />

and <strong>the</strong>ir menu assignments must include proper<br />

descriptions and selling prices. In an effort <strong>to</strong> outdo one<br />

ano<strong>the</strong>r, many gravitate <strong>to</strong>ward unusual varieties of<br />

produce or ingredients that <strong>the</strong>y have little experience<br />

in preparing and quickly learn that it is usu<strong>all</strong>y <strong>the</strong><br />

farmer who has <strong>the</strong> best advice on ingredients and<br />

preparations. O<strong>the</strong>r students spend time observing<br />

what members of <strong>the</strong> community are purchasing <strong>to</strong><br />

gauge local tastes and trends in designing <strong>the</strong>ir menus.<br />

Students get a chance <strong>to</strong> network with local chefs who<br />

purchase directly from <strong>the</strong> farmers. It is a fun extra<br />

credit assignment <strong>to</strong> <strong>all</strong>ow students <strong>to</strong> create a dish or<br />

two from <strong>the</strong>ir respective menu.<br />

Even <strong>the</strong> lecture portion of culinary arts classes<br />

can be enhanced with local farmers’ markets. What<br />

better way <strong>to</strong> lecture on fruits, vegetables, herbs, and<br />

cheeses than by standing right next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>m? Students<br />

can practice product identification with a great<br />

variety of products and ask questions directly of local<br />

producers. In <strong>the</strong> more advanced classes, as questions<br />

turn <strong>to</strong>wards issues of organics, sustainability, and <strong>the</strong><br />

environmental impact of our <strong>food</strong> supply, students can<br />

gain a first hand appreciation of <strong>the</strong> concept of “farm<strong>to</strong>-plate”<br />

and <strong>the</strong> intrinsic value of purchasing directly<br />

from farmers.<br />

An entire day could<br />

be devoted <strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong>,<br />

with both a field trip <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

market followed by time<br />

spent <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r cooking and<br />

eating a class meal. Extra<br />

credit options may include volunteering <strong>to</strong> help at<br />

booths or making side trips <strong>to</strong> local farms. Local farms<br />

never turn down free labor when it comes <strong>to</strong> pulling<br />

weeds, pruning, and harvesting. Hands-on experience<br />

will help students retain information as well.<br />

A field trip <strong>to</strong> a farmers’ market paves <strong>the</strong> way for<br />

students <strong>to</strong> begin <strong>to</strong> understand <strong>the</strong> bene<strong>fit</strong>s of good,<br />

clean, and fair. One creative project or assignment<br />

is <strong>all</strong> it takes for students <strong>to</strong> begin examining <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

environment, <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong>s <strong>the</strong>y eat and <strong>the</strong>ir origins.<br />

Hopefully, as this generation of new culinary graduates<br />

assumes its place in <strong>the</strong> kitchens and dining rooms of<br />

<strong>the</strong> world, that one field trip will continue <strong>to</strong> influence<br />

and inspire.<br />

Alisa Gaylon is Chef Instruc<strong>to</strong>r at Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago<br />

(CHIC), where she will soon be helping <strong>to</strong> launch a school convivium. She<br />

also teaches Hospitality Law at <strong>the</strong> Art Institute of Pittsburgh.


STORYTELLING<br />

<strong>Education</strong> at <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation<br />

— By Anya Fernald<br />

How does an event communicate and translate <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong>’s vast, wide-ranging values<br />

in<strong>to</strong> experiences? To address this ch<strong>all</strong>enge, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation team has defined<br />

“experiential values,” or <strong>the</strong> values that will shape individual experiences at <strong>the</strong> event:<br />

accessible, educational, and enjoyable. Experiences will be easy <strong>to</strong> comprehend and nonexclusionary,<br />

will teach <strong>the</strong> participant something, and will be enjoyable for <strong>the</strong> palate<br />

and mind.<br />

<strong>The</strong> educational aspect is perhaps <strong>the</strong> most ch<strong>all</strong>enging and important of <strong>the</strong><br />

experiential values at <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation. Getting people through <strong>the</strong> door <strong>to</strong> eat and<br />

drink is <strong>the</strong> easy part of an event; <strong>the</strong> hard part is making that individual interaction<br />

meaningful, and, in turn, having it lead <strong>to</strong> change in how a person perceives <strong>food</strong><br />

and agriculture and how <strong>the</strong>y use <strong>the</strong>ir own purchasing and political power for good,<br />

clean, and fair ends. In addition <strong>to</strong> being transformative, <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>ne of <strong>the</strong> educational<br />

components of <strong>the</strong> event space must be warm, and <strong>the</strong> language used <strong>to</strong> contextualize<br />

<strong>the</strong> event cannot feel preachy or patronizing—we want <strong>all</strong> <strong>the</strong> event elements <strong>to</strong> speak<br />

as a peer and friend <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> audience. Ide<strong>all</strong>y, <strong>the</strong> educational aspect of <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation<br />

will serve as an approachable and friendly guide that not only shares insights in<strong>to</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />

and <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ries behind it, but also<br />

sits back and lets each person enjoy<br />

Olobore duis nim num dolor<br />

irit, commod tem verit<br />

dolore molore minci duis<br />

nim num dolor irit,<br />

his or her own personal experience.<br />

In order <strong>to</strong> walk <strong>the</strong> line between<br />

high-minded values and open and<br />

engaging language and feel, <strong>Slow</strong><br />

<strong>Food</strong> Nation will focus on s<strong>to</strong>rytelling<br />

as a primary educational <strong>to</strong>ol at <strong>the</strong><br />

event. <strong>The</strong>re will be s<strong>to</strong>ries of seedsaving,<br />

of indigenous traditions, of a family recipe that became a regional specialty, or of a<br />

microclimate that shapes <strong>the</strong> production of a particular crop.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se educational components will be presented within different physical spaces at <strong>the</strong><br />

event. <strong>The</strong> Vic<strong>to</strong>ry Garden—a vegetable farm at <strong>the</strong> heart of <strong>the</strong> city and <strong>the</strong> centerpiece of<br />

<strong>the</strong> event—will tell a s<strong>to</strong>ry through signage, docents, and products about <strong>the</strong> need <strong>to</strong> build<br />

urban <strong>food</strong> security and will provide information about <strong>the</strong> Bay Area’s urban farms. <strong>The</strong><br />

Cheese pavilion in <strong>the</strong> Fort Mason Taste h<strong>all</strong>s will describe <strong>the</strong> microflora, biodiversity, and<br />

cheesemaking traditions brought <strong>to</strong> California by Portuguese and Italian immigrants. <strong>The</strong><br />

Explore area at Fort Mason will explain how corn and sorghum are grown, processed, and<br />

cooked, and <strong>the</strong> role <strong>the</strong>ir cultivation has played in <strong>the</strong> development of <strong>the</strong> Americas.<br />

In addition <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> educational experiences throughout <strong>the</strong> event, <strong>the</strong>re will be specific<br />

educational opportunities within <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation. At <strong>the</strong> Civic Center Plaza, school trips<br />

will be welcomed with specific curriculum <strong>to</strong> guide students’ participation in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />

Nation Vic<strong>to</strong>ry Garden, Marketplace, and <strong>Slow</strong> on <strong>the</strong> Go <strong>food</strong> stands. After <strong>the</strong> non-pro<strong>fit</strong><br />

leadership meeting—Changemakers Day—on <strong>the</strong> first day of <strong>the</strong> event, <strong>the</strong> role of education<br />

in building a new <strong>food</strong> system will be <strong>the</strong> focus of a forum for <strong>the</strong> general public. <strong>The</strong> forum<br />

will feature best practices of successful educational programs around <strong>the</strong> country and a c<strong>all</strong> <strong>to</strong><br />

action for educa<strong>to</strong>rs and educational policy makers <strong>to</strong> lead change in our educational system.<br />

Through its educational experiences, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation aims <strong>to</strong> be a platform for <strong>the</strong><br />

wider <strong>food</strong> movement, one that serves as a catalytic moment<br />

Anya Fernald is <strong>the</strong> Executive<br />

Direc<strong>to</strong>r of <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation. for consumer engagement in <strong>food</strong>, health, and agriculture, one<br />

To learn more and <strong>to</strong> find out that will lay <strong>the</strong> foundation for building consumer support <strong>to</strong><br />

how <strong>to</strong> get involved, please<br />

visit www.slow<strong>food</strong>nation.org. change <strong>the</strong> American <strong>food</strong> system.<br />

15<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008


A co-producer is a consumer who knows and understands<br />

problems of <strong>food</strong> production: quality, economics, and<br />

processing requirements, <strong>the</strong> culinary aspect. It’s not just<br />

someone who consumes. It’s that <strong>the</strong>y want <strong>to</strong> know.<br />

Producer<br />

— Carlo Petrini<br />

Driving Change in <strong>the</strong> Dining H<strong>all</strong><br />

— By Severine von Tscharner Fleming<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />

16<br />

Better <strong>food</strong> for bettering young minds—and much more<br />

As a student-farmer and discerning campus eater,<br />

I’ve long lobbied for sustainable institutional<br />

purchasing. And that’s how, one day, I found myself on<br />

a golf cart in sou<strong>the</strong>rn California. My friends and I were<br />

picking up <strong>the</strong> big blue bins of <strong>food</strong> waste <strong>the</strong> dining<br />

h<strong>all</strong>s had saved for us. It was <strong>the</strong> Campus Composting<br />

Program that we’d proposed, that <strong>the</strong> student senate<br />

had funded, and that we now found ourselves<br />

beneficiaries of. <strong>The</strong> compost we made from <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />

scraps went directly <strong>to</strong> our student-run organic farm,<br />

where it rose up in steaming piles each morning<br />

under <strong>the</strong> oak trees, giving our farm a properly banked<br />

buffer on <strong>all</strong> sides. <strong>The</strong> piles said, “Attention visi<strong>to</strong>rs:<br />

Agriculture practiced here!” Except for <strong>the</strong> stinky swill<br />

of cantaloupe rinds gone sour and some slight worries<br />

about <strong>the</strong> flaky white fungicide on <strong>the</strong> pineapple<br />

peelings, we relished <strong>the</strong> whole business.<br />

<strong>The</strong> day of our great triumph came when we<br />

delivered about 100 pounds of Tahitian squashes <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> kitchen at Pomona College. <strong>The</strong>re was great delight<br />

among <strong>the</strong> dining staff as we did a glory-lap around<br />

<strong>the</strong> kitchen with our four-foot-long mutants (<strong>the</strong><br />

squashes, usu<strong>all</strong>y drum shaped, had managed <strong>to</strong> cross<br />

with some o<strong>the</strong>r cucurbits and were like an ogre’s<br />

boomerangs, magnificently striped dun on <strong>the</strong> outside,<br />

bright pumpkin orange on <strong>the</strong> inside).<br />

Institutional purchasing is an incredibly powerful<br />

instrument for changing <strong>the</strong> local economic framework<br />

for sustainably produced paper, lumber, <strong>food</strong>, and<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r needed resources. When a college decides its<br />

purchasing based on certain environmental metrics<br />

(non-<strong>to</strong>xic cleaning supplies, loc<strong>all</strong>y harvested<br />

lumber, family farmed <strong>food</strong>s, fair trade coffee) <strong>the</strong>y<br />

are able <strong>to</strong> leverage substantial clout among <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

various contrac<strong>to</strong>rs, suppliers, and local businesses.<br />

Even a sm<strong>all</strong> college can decide <strong>to</strong> sell only fair trade<br />

T-shirts, ensuring business <strong>to</strong> a responsible textile<br />

manufacturer, as well as setting a good example for its<br />

students.<br />

When it comes <strong>to</strong> <strong>food</strong>, <strong>the</strong> bene<strong>fit</strong>s of an<br />

institutional commitment <strong>to</strong> a particular set of farmers<br />

is even more compelling. Imagine, as a farmer, not<br />

having <strong>to</strong> race out <strong>to</strong> market every week or deal<br />

with <strong>the</strong> overblown egos of urban chefs, but instead<br />

producing, under contract, a diversity of vegetables,<br />

herbs, and salads for <strong>the</strong> college ten miles away. You<br />

deliver two times per week, you get your check right<br />

away—what a revelation! <strong>The</strong> students get fresh<br />

produce, <strong>the</strong> school maintains its local greenspace<br />

and agricultural economy. Meanwhile, in <strong>the</strong> kitchen,<br />

a whole new way of cooking brings <strong>the</strong>se fabulous,<br />

healthy, local ingredients in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> waiting bellies of<br />

harried students.<br />

Who should drive this change in our dining h<strong>all</strong>s?<br />

Is it <strong>the</strong> students—who may never have been <strong>to</strong> a<br />

farmers’ market in <strong>the</strong>ir lives? Is it up <strong>to</strong> local farming<br />

groups, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> parents, and activists <strong>to</strong> raise <strong>the</strong><br />

standards of taste education? Is it <strong>the</strong> role of visionary<br />

college leaders <strong>to</strong> set major goals for sustainability<br />

and freshness and see <strong>to</strong> it that <strong>the</strong> produce comes<br />

from sm<strong>all</strong>er farms and not just conventional organic<br />

agriculture?<br />

<strong>The</strong>re will be some freshman who prefer <strong>to</strong> stick<br />

with <strong>the</strong>ir diet of ketchup and onion rings, but chances<br />

are <strong>the</strong>re will be a few who crave those greens one<br />

morning if <strong>the</strong>y are offered consistently. And we must<br />

make it available <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>m! We must ch<strong>all</strong>enge school<br />

leaders <strong>to</strong> boldly go where students cannot and make<br />

<strong>the</strong> commitment <strong>to</strong> nutrition, fresh produce, organic<br />

milk, local farmers, and quality <strong>food</strong>. Not just “organic”<br />

baby salad mix from some distant megafarm, but<br />

quality, lovingly grown <strong>food</strong> that might well require <strong>the</strong><br />

retraining of kitchen staff, overhauling of purchasing<br />

agreements, and certainly some patience. As we surely<br />

know by now, its worth <strong>the</strong> extra effort.<br />

Activist, filmmaker, and farmer Severine von Tscharner Fleming is <strong>the</strong><br />

founder of <strong>the</strong> Society for Agriculture and <strong>Food</strong> Ecology (www.agrariana.<br />

org) and direc<strong>to</strong>r of <strong>the</strong> Greenhorns.


CO-Producer<br />

<strong>The</strong> Incredible, Edible, Unattainable Egg<br />

— By Gary Giberson<br />

How <strong>to</strong> get a loc<strong>all</strong>y sourced school lunch<br />

In 2004 my life as a chef and <strong>food</strong> service<br />

direc<strong>to</strong>r changed in unimaginable ways. At <strong>the</strong><br />

start of <strong>the</strong> twenty-first century in an industrial<br />

<strong>food</strong> world, procuring <strong>food</strong> for contract feeding<br />

is done with <strong>the</strong> click of a mouse. For a chef,<br />

operating a computer is akin <strong>to</strong> having classical<br />

knife skills. I had been through countless inservice<br />

computer training courses designed <strong>to</strong><br />

better prepare <strong>the</strong> user with <strong>the</strong> newest and most<br />

efficient web-based purchasing system. None of<br />

this, however, prepared me for what would be<br />

my greatest ch<strong>all</strong>enge: locating, obtaining, and<br />

purchasing eggs that were organic, local, and free<br />

range.<br />

That year, <strong>the</strong> Lawrenceville School, where I<br />

am <strong>the</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Service Direc<strong>to</strong>r, began what would<br />

prove <strong>to</strong> be a long and rewarding journey. We <strong>to</strong>ok<br />

<strong>The</strong> eggs that I was able <strong>to</strong><br />

purchase through <strong>the</strong> existing<br />

system were known in <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />

service contract business as<br />

“liquid eggs”: picture boxed<br />

wine, and now imagine <strong>the</strong> box<br />

filled with ultra-pasteurized,<br />

homogenized, caged, medicated,<br />

enriched, whipped egg product<br />

on <strong>the</strong> daunting ch<strong>all</strong>enge of becoming a green<br />

and sustainable campus. My first ch<strong>all</strong>enge was<br />

<strong>to</strong> convince <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> service contract company<br />

I was employed by <strong>to</strong> purchase from local and<br />

sustainable farms. This purchasing request was<br />

unheard of in <strong>the</strong> current school contract feeding<br />

environment. To understand this, however, I must<br />

first describe how <strong>food</strong> arrived at my kitchen.<br />

Menus and recipes were developed by corporate<br />

chefs <strong>the</strong>n approved by corporate dietitians<br />

who <strong>the</strong>n would submit <strong>the</strong> ingredient list for<br />

<strong>the</strong> menus <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> corporate purchasing division,<br />

where <strong>the</strong> real decisions of purchasing are made.<br />

Once <strong>the</strong> items were identified and specifications<br />

determined, <strong>the</strong>y were put out for bid <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> large<br />

industrial <strong>food</strong> manufacturers <strong>to</strong> determine price,<br />

availability, and most importantly, large-volume<br />

purchase incentives and rebates. When this<br />

process was completed and <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> bids awarded<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> manufacturers, <strong>the</strong> corporate-approved<br />

ingredients were <strong>the</strong>n s<strong>to</strong>cked by <strong>the</strong> approved<br />

national contracted <strong>food</strong> distribu<strong>to</strong>r. At my school,<br />

<strong>the</strong> approved menu items list was downloaded<br />

<strong>to</strong> my purchasing system, which restricted me<br />

in selecting only <strong>the</strong> items that appeared on <strong>the</strong><br />

approved list <strong>to</strong> be delivered by approved vendors.<br />

From my computer I would enter my purchasing<br />

needs and electronic<strong>all</strong>y send my order <strong>to</strong> a<br />

password-protected website two days before my<br />

scheduled delivery date. <strong>The</strong>se systems controlled<br />

my ability <strong>to</strong> know who was producing <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />

and where it was coming from. This complexity<br />

can be rationalized when considering that<br />

because most school <strong>food</strong> budgets are limited,<br />

companies are forced <strong>to</strong> specialize in feeding<br />

students cheaply and efficiently while aiming for<br />

<strong>the</strong> greatest pro<strong>fit</strong>. But let’s get back <strong>to</strong> that egg.<br />

<strong>The</strong> eggs that I was able <strong>to</strong> purchase through<br />

this system were known in <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> service<br />

contract business as “liquid eggs.” <strong>The</strong> product<br />

comes delivered in large, 20-pound plastic<br />

dispenser bags packaged in cardboard with a<br />

pouring spout. Envision boxed wine, and now<br />

imagine <strong>the</strong> box filled with ultra-pasteurized,<br />

homogenized, caged, medicated, enriched,<br />

whipped egg product with citric acid added <strong>to</strong><br />

preserve freshness.<br />

For me <strong>to</strong> procure organic, local, free-range<br />

eggs from <strong>the</strong> farmer adjacent <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> school’s<br />

property was way out of <strong>the</strong> box. <strong>The</strong>se are just a<br />

few of many problems <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> service company<br />

had with this request: <strong>the</strong> farmer was not on <strong>the</strong><br />

approved vendor list and did not carry a large<br />

general liability insurance policy; <strong>the</strong> eggs were<br />

still in <strong>the</strong>ir original packaging (a shell) and,<br />

<strong>the</strong>refore, could be hard <strong>to</strong> work with and possibly<br />

contaminated; <strong>the</strong> product was not pasteurized<br />

and potenti<strong>all</strong>y unsafe; and <strong>the</strong> corporate<br />

purchasing division could not negotiate a price or<br />

a large-volume purchase incentive rebate with <strong>the</strong><br />

local farmer.<br />

Continued on next page 17<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008


When it fin<strong>all</strong>y happened, it proved <strong>to</strong> be a tumultuous changeover<br />

because <strong>the</strong> last noted reason was <strong>the</strong> biggest problem. I was currently<br />

paying 90 cents a pound for <strong>the</strong> liquid egg product, a large percentage<br />

of which was “rebated” <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> service contrac<strong>to</strong>r. <strong>The</strong> price of <strong>the</strong><br />

organic, local, free-range eggs at $4.50 per dozen, with no rebate, would<br />

cost approximately three dollars more for <strong>the</strong> same amount of eggs. In<br />

my opinion, however, <strong>the</strong> quality, taste, freshness, wholesomeness, and<br />

environment<strong>all</strong>y responsible breeding practices was worth <strong>the</strong> extra money.<br />

I first started buying <strong>the</strong> eggs with <strong>the</strong> limited petty cash my school<br />

account was <strong>all</strong>ocated for miscellaneous purchases, violating every corporate<br />

policy for purchasing and exposing myself <strong>to</strong> possible termination. This felt<br />

dangerous and, at <strong>the</strong> same time, remarkably satisfying. I <strong>the</strong>n decided <strong>to</strong> go<br />

through <strong>the</strong> process of requesting my local farm, Cherry Grove, <strong>to</strong> be listed<br />

as an approved vendor. This proved <strong>to</strong> be a lengthy and time consuming<br />

procedure, but I was determined <strong>to</strong> see <strong>the</strong> process through. My second step<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />

18<br />

Lunchtime at <strong>the</strong><br />

Lawrenceville School<br />

was <strong>to</strong> request <strong>the</strong> new vendor approval application, which <strong>to</strong>ok two weeks<br />

<strong>to</strong> arrive; once <strong>the</strong> application was completed I submitted it for corporate<br />

approval. A month later, Cherry Grove was contacted by <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> service<br />

contract company <strong>to</strong> submit <strong>the</strong>ir insurance documentation and <strong>to</strong> negotiate<br />

payment terms. And this is where <strong>the</strong> wheels fell off <strong>the</strong> trac<strong>to</strong>r. <strong>The</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />

service company’s accounts payable division typic<strong>all</strong>y pays <strong>the</strong>ir vendors 45<br />

days following <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> month. This meant Cherry Grove would not<br />

be paid for a delivery of eggs made on September 1 until sometime in <strong>the</strong><br />

middle of November—a payment term farmers cannot accept and survive on.<br />

I found this <strong>to</strong> be <strong>the</strong> case with every local farmer I tried <strong>to</strong> purchase from,<br />

thus ending my quest for local and sustainable <strong>food</strong> under <strong>the</strong> direction of a<br />

corporate <strong>food</strong> service company.<br />

I am proud <strong>to</strong> say at this time, in 2008, that <strong>the</strong> Lawrenceville School<br />

now receives a weekly supply of Cherry Grove eggs along with many loc<strong>all</strong>y<br />

grown and produced <strong>food</strong>s directly from <strong>the</strong> farmers and artisans in our area.<br />

Because of <strong>the</strong> inability of <strong>the</strong> large <strong>food</strong> service contrac<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> change <strong>the</strong><br />

Gary D. Giberson is a chef, <strong>food</strong> service consultant,<br />

and <strong>the</strong> founder and owner of Sustainable Fare, an<br />

environment<strong>all</strong>y responsible <strong>food</strong> service company.<br />

way <strong>the</strong>y buy <strong>food</strong>, I have become<br />

a chef by trade and a <strong>food</strong> service<br />

company owner by necessity.


BOOKS<br />

SLOW READS<br />

In Defense of <strong>Food</strong>: An Eater’s Manifes<strong>to</strong><br />

By Michael Pollan<br />

Penguin Press<br />

Good <strong>Food</strong> Tastes Good: An Argument<br />

for Trusting Your Senses and Ignoring <strong>the</strong><br />

Nutritionists<br />

by Carol Hart<br />

SpringStreet Books<br />

If you have not yet read<br />

Michael Pollan’s new book,<br />

you’ve probably heard of it.<br />

His koan of an advisory—“Eat<br />

<strong>food</strong>. Not <strong>to</strong>o much. Mostly<br />

plants.”—has already made<br />

its way <strong>to</strong> most <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />

members’ ears, if not also <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

hearts and bellies. Health and<br />

science journalist Hart covers<br />

much of <strong>the</strong> same ground as<br />

Pollan, and though her book<br />

lacks <strong>the</strong> visibility of his, it shares <strong>the</strong> same over<strong>all</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>sis. Both books argue for <strong>the</strong> simple, delicious,<br />

and health-giving properties of real, slow <strong>food</strong>, and<br />

against <strong>the</strong> reductionist vision of “nutritionism,” which<br />

breaks <strong>food</strong>s down in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir component parts. Pollan<br />

very clearly explicates <strong>the</strong> process: <strong>food</strong>s are highly<br />

processed, stripped of <strong>the</strong>ir natural nutrients along <strong>the</strong><br />

way, <strong>the</strong>n fortified afterwards <strong>to</strong> bring <strong>the</strong> lost nutrients<br />

back. However, <strong>the</strong> problem with thinking of nutrients<br />

as individual silver bullets is that it does not take in<strong>to</strong><br />

account <strong>the</strong> holistic interplay that is at work in a whole<br />

<strong>food</strong>. Both authors chart <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry of how we got in<strong>to</strong><br />

this way of thinking and <strong>the</strong>n try <strong>to</strong> help dig us out.<br />

Pollan’s book is a manifes<strong>to</strong> and <strong>the</strong>refore gives<br />

<strong>the</strong> reader general guidelines that can light <strong>the</strong> way:<br />

“Avoid <strong>Food</strong> Products that Make Health Claims” (a<br />

yam is silent because it has no wrapper on which<br />

<strong>to</strong> advertise its health bene<strong>fit</strong>s). Hart’s book is more<br />

nuts and bolts, with concrete advice such as how <strong>to</strong><br />

choose <strong>the</strong> healthiest piece of fruit in <strong>the</strong> pile (a few<br />

blemishes are a good sign, as is moderate size). Both<br />

books debunk various nutrition myths—although<br />

Hart goes more in depth with this, addressing many<br />

different specific health fads and claims—giving us<br />

<strong>the</strong> science, reasoning, and his<strong>to</strong>ry <strong>to</strong> support what<br />

we already know: <strong>to</strong>o much of any one thing is never<br />

a good idea, farm-fresh <strong>food</strong> is good and good for you,<br />

and eating <strong>food</strong> you’ve cooked yourself is <strong>the</strong> best way<br />

<strong>to</strong> eat healthily (only try not <strong>to</strong> eat so much, you hear?).<br />

—Jerusha Klemperer<br />

Sharing <strong>the</strong> Harvest: A Citizen’s Guide <strong>to</strong><br />

Community Supported Agriculture<br />

By Elizabeth Henderson and Robyn Van En<br />

Chelsea Green<br />

Increasingly Americans are<br />

waking up <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> fact that<br />

we have become a nation<br />

out of <strong>to</strong>uch with <strong>the</strong> land<br />

that provides our <strong>food</strong>—and<br />

consequently <strong>the</strong> farmers<br />

who grow it. But what do<br />

we do about it? Apart from<br />

growing your own vegetables,<br />

participating in community<br />

supported agriculture (CSA)<br />

is one of <strong>the</strong> most effective<br />

ways of sharing in both <strong>the</strong> risks and rewards of farming.<br />

In Sharing <strong>the</strong> Harvest, Elizabeth Henderson takes up<br />

<strong>the</strong> reins from <strong>the</strong> late Robyn Van En, a key figure in<br />

forming <strong>the</strong> CSA movement in North America in <strong>the</strong><br />

mid-1980s. Henderson’s book honestly sums up <strong>the</strong> truth<br />

about starting and maintaining a CSA. Since each CSA is<br />

unique and has distinct operational demands, Henderson<br />

provides detailed anecdotes compiled from dozens of CSAs<br />

around <strong>the</strong> country describing <strong>the</strong> pitf<strong>all</strong>s and ch<strong>all</strong>enges<br />

of running a CSA, along with techniques and wisdom for<br />

overcoming difficulties.<br />

Sometimes it’s <strong>the</strong> simplest wisdom that makes <strong>the</strong><br />

biggest difference. For example, communication between<br />

<strong>the</strong> farmer and CSA members is important, whe<strong>the</strong>r by way<br />

of newsletters or increasing signage amongst <strong>the</strong> lettuces.<br />

She explains share pricing and bookkeeping technologies,<br />

gives examples of harvesting and distribution methods,<br />

and even ventures in<strong>to</strong> nitty-gritty details on hard-truth<br />

issues like divorce in farming families and how it affects<br />

a CSA.<br />

Henderson believes in <strong>the</strong> power of a community<br />

uniting <strong>to</strong> grow <strong>food</strong>, and she easily imparts that spirit <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> reader. If you’ve never heard of CSA, her enthusiasm<br />

will make you a believer; if you’re looking <strong>to</strong> start one in<br />

your community or if you’re a farmer needing guidance<br />

on managing a CSA, this book is an indispensable<br />

resource. —Elizabeth Bird 19<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008


<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />

20<br />

Manifes<strong>to</strong>s on <strong>the</strong> Future of <strong>Food</strong><br />

and Seed<br />

Edited by Vandana Shiva, with essays by Michael<br />

Pollan, Carlo Petrini, Jamey Lionette, Prince Charles, &<br />

Vandana Shiva<br />

South End Press<br />

could not wait <strong>to</strong> finish this book! No, not because it<br />

I was dry and boring—just <strong>the</strong> opposite. I wanted <strong>to</strong><br />

put this book down (or in<strong>to</strong> someone else’s hands) so I<br />

could get up and do something about <strong>the</strong> future of <strong>food</strong>.<br />

Building off of Terra Madre, a ga<strong>the</strong>ring of sm<strong>all</strong><br />

<strong>food</strong> producers, chefs, educa<strong>to</strong>rs, and observers from<br />

150 countries that takes place biannu<strong>all</strong>y in Turin,<br />

Italy, <strong>the</strong> seven essays and two manifes<strong>to</strong>s in this<br />

collection carry <strong>the</strong> powerful discussions formulated<br />

at <strong>the</strong> event <strong>to</strong> a wider audience. Each author’s<br />

essay has a different focus, ranging from health <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> environment <strong>to</strong> supporting sm<strong>all</strong> producers. Yet<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir messages are united by an underlying <strong>the</strong>me of<br />

building local <strong>food</strong> economies and communities as a<br />

way <strong>to</strong> create a sustainable <strong>food</strong> chain in <strong>the</strong> US.<br />

<strong>The</strong> “Manifes<strong>to</strong> on <strong>the</strong> Future of <strong>Food</strong>” and <strong>the</strong><br />

“Manifes<strong>to</strong> on <strong>the</strong> Future of Seed” were written<br />

by <strong>the</strong> International Commission on <strong>the</strong> Future of<br />

<strong>Food</strong> with <strong>the</strong> support of <strong>the</strong> Tuscan government.<br />

Supporting “local,” which Vandana Shiva, chair of <strong>the</strong><br />

Commission, defines in her essay as <strong>the</strong> freedom <strong>to</strong><br />

do things differently and uniquely, is a core <strong>the</strong>me<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> writings. “Future of <strong>Food</strong>” illustrates<br />

how local can go beyond local. By redefining WTO<br />

guidelines so that <strong>the</strong>y support “local production,<br />

local self-reliance, and local <strong>food</strong> security,” an<br />

international network of producers and co-producers<br />

that share collective rights over agricultural practices<br />

can be created. Globalization can be made virtuous,<br />

something Carlo Petrini elaborates on earlier in <strong>the</strong><br />

book. “Future of Seed” focuses on how building a<br />

network of sustainable <strong>food</strong> communities around <strong>the</strong><br />

world intricately relates <strong>to</strong> sm<strong>all</strong> farmers’ abilities <strong>to</strong><br />

have full sovereignty over seeds <strong>the</strong>y use and save.<br />

<strong>The</strong> highlights of both manifes<strong>to</strong>s are in <strong>the</strong> personal<br />

s<strong>to</strong>ries demonstrating how communities around <strong>the</strong><br />

world, in Brazil, India, and <strong>the</strong> United States, among<br />

o<strong>the</strong>rs, are responding <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>se ch<strong>all</strong>enges and<br />

developing successful, local alternatives.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> introduction, Shiva writes, “At Terra<br />

Madre, sm<strong>all</strong> producers ga<strong>the</strong>red not just <strong>to</strong> curse<br />

<strong>the</strong> darkness of corporate globalization but also <strong>to</strong><br />

light and keep lit <strong>the</strong> lamps of sm<strong>all</strong>, decentralized,<br />

biodiverse production.” For her, <strong>the</strong> book is a <strong>to</strong>ol<br />

that will help keep <strong>the</strong> metaphorical lamp lit as it<br />

instills a sense of urgency in its readers <strong>to</strong> support <strong>the</strong><br />

building of local, diversified <strong>food</strong> economies in <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

communities.<br />

Short and <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> point, this is a great read. Once<br />

you finish, check out <strong>the</strong> resources in <strong>the</strong> back, share it<br />

with a friend, and start acting. —Julia De Martini Day<br />

<strong>The</strong> Best of Bloodroot, Volume One:<br />

Vegetarian Recipes and Volume Two:<br />

Vegan Recipes<br />

By Selma Miriam and Noel Furie with<br />

Lagusta Yearwood<br />

Anomaly Press<br />

Selma, taking our<br />

orders from her<br />

desk at <strong>the</strong> door of<br />

Bloodroot Restaurant<br />

on Long Island Sound in<br />

Bridgeport, Connecticut,<br />

recommended <strong>the</strong> Spicy<br />

Haitian Polenta with<br />

Creamed Collard Greens.<br />

“It’s outta sight,” she said.<br />

And it was. I immediately<br />

bought <strong>the</strong> cookbooks,<br />

went home, and made<br />

<strong>the</strong> greens, which<br />

matched <strong>the</strong> restaurant<br />

dish <strong>to</strong> perfection. That’s<br />

<strong>the</strong> beauty of <strong>The</strong> Best of Bloodroot: a fine 30-year-old<br />

restaurant with a strong his<strong>to</strong>ry of writing cookbooks<br />

has compiled this treasury of recipes that have been<br />

made hundreds of times. <strong>The</strong>y’re boiled down, easy <strong>to</strong><br />

follow, and <strong>the</strong>y work. <strong>The</strong>se recipes are inspiring and<br />

have an exciting international flair. <strong>The</strong>y’re listed by<br />

season, which always helps in shopping and selection.<br />

Bloodroot has been serving loc<strong>all</strong>y produced <strong>food</strong>s<br />

in season since 1977. For <strong>the</strong> last eight years <strong>the</strong>y have<br />

been <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> supporters, and with Urban Oaks, <strong>the</strong><br />

farm that supplies much of <strong>the</strong>ir produce, <strong>the</strong>y help<br />

stage <strong>the</strong> annual Toma<strong>to</strong> Tomah-<strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> bene<strong>fit</strong><br />

in Connecticut. <strong>The</strong> farms bring in over 200 varieties of<br />

heirloom <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es, and Bloodroot cooks prepare some<br />

tasty dishes, always <strong>the</strong>ir famous Green Toma<strong>to</strong> Pie,<br />

which is in <strong>the</strong> cookbooks. Of course. All of <strong>the</strong>ir best<br />

recipes are <strong>the</strong>re, along with some famous essays on<br />

<strong>food</strong> and feminism.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Sake-Steamed Yukon Gold Pota<strong>to</strong>es is one<br />

of my favorite recipes. Miso Gravy is fantastic. And<br />

I thoroughly enjoyed <strong>the</strong> Seaweed and Bean Thread<br />

Noodle Salad and Brandied Bread Pudding. —Julie<br />

Jordan, author of cookbooks Wings of Life, Cabbage<strong>to</strong>wn<br />

Cafe Cookbook, and A Taste of Julie Jordan


Continued from page 7<br />

eat. Advocating for a return <strong>to</strong> tradition, <strong>to</strong> a golden<br />

era of pre-industrial <strong>food</strong> production, is not going <strong>to</strong><br />

resonate with <strong>the</strong> majority of our peers. We need <strong>to</strong> be<br />

adaptable and open <strong>to</strong> compromise if any significant<br />

progress is <strong>to</strong> be made. When it is <strong>all</strong> <strong>to</strong>o convenient<br />

and seemingly cheaper <strong>to</strong> eat poorly, and when young<br />

people often don’t have <strong>the</strong> choice <strong>to</strong> do any better,<br />

we need <strong>to</strong> be open-minded and creative agents<br />

of change. Urban gardening, shopping at farmers’<br />

markets, composting, and even cooking at home are<br />

foreign concepts <strong>to</strong> so many young Americans. It’s time<br />

<strong>to</strong> show <strong>the</strong>m that it’s not so weird <strong>to</strong> do <strong>the</strong>se things,<br />

that it’s not so hard <strong>to</strong> incorporate <strong>the</strong>m in<strong>to</strong> a busy<br />

lifestyle. It didn’t take long for fast <strong>food</strong> <strong>to</strong> become <strong>the</strong><br />

norm, so with <strong>the</strong> right approach, perhaps <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />

will become just as accepted.<br />

As Carlo Petrini said in his opening speech at <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> International Congress in Puebla, we must<br />

embody enjundia—a sense of “sacred passion”—in our<br />

thinking and action. This may be <strong>the</strong> most important<br />

thing <strong>to</strong> remember as we try <strong>to</strong> raise awareness and<br />

concern: that our own enjundia is key <strong>to</strong> awakening <strong>the</strong><br />

same passion in o<strong>the</strong>rs. Ra<strong>the</strong>r than chastising people<br />

for eating <strong>the</strong> way <strong>the</strong>y do, it’s time <strong>to</strong> show <strong>the</strong>m just<br />

how easy and rewarding it can be <strong>to</strong> care about <strong>food</strong>.<br />

After <strong>all</strong>, it’s much better <strong>to</strong> inspire glee than guilt. It’s<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> way, and <strong>the</strong>re’s no reason for young<br />

people not <strong>to</strong> join in.<br />

New resource for local-<strong>food</strong> lovers and activists!<br />

In 2005, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> leader and long-time sustainable agriculture<br />

scholar-activist Gary Nabhan partnered with <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />

USA Executive Direc<strong>to</strong>r Erika Lesser <strong>to</strong> take on a grand charge.<br />

Toge<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong>y assembled RAFT (Renewing America’s <strong>Food</strong><br />

Traditions), a pioneering partnership of seven US education,<br />

conservation, and <strong>food</strong> organizations. RAFT was founded on <strong>the</strong><br />

premise that chefs, gastronomes, and consumers have crucial<br />

roles <strong>to</strong> play in <strong>the</strong> conservation and res<strong>to</strong>ration of <strong>food</strong> and<br />

farming traditions unique <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> North American continent.<br />

<strong>The</strong> seven founding organizations—American Lives<strong>to</strong>ck Breeds<br />

Conservancy, <strong>the</strong> Center for Sustainable Environments, Chefs<br />

Collaborative, Native Seeds/SEARCH, <strong>the</strong> Cultural Conservancy,<br />

Seed Savers Exchange, and <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA—have since been<br />

catalysts in <strong>the</strong> conservation of dozens of heirloom vegetables<br />

and fruits, lives<strong>to</strong>ck and poultry breeds, and in <strong>the</strong> protection of<br />

traditional hunting, fishing, farming, and ga<strong>the</strong>ring grounds.<br />

A reflection of RAFT work <strong>to</strong> date, Renewing America’s <strong>Food</strong> Traditions is a beautifully<br />

illustrated dramatic c<strong>all</strong> <strong>to</strong> recognize, celebrate, and conserve <strong>the</strong> great diversity of <strong>food</strong>s that<br />

gives North America <strong>the</strong> distinctive culinary identity that reflects our multicultural heritage.<br />

It offers us rich natural and cultural his<strong>to</strong>ries as well as recipes and folk traditions associated<br />

with <strong>the</strong> rarest <strong>food</strong> plants and animals in North America. In doing so, it reminds us that what<br />

we choose <strong>to</strong> eat can ei<strong>the</strong>r conserve or deplete <strong>the</strong> cornucopia of our continent.<br />

<strong>The</strong> book doesn’t dwell on tragic losses. Instead, it highlights <strong>the</strong> success s<strong>to</strong>ries of<br />

<strong>food</strong> recovery, habitat res<strong>to</strong>ration, and market revitalization that chefs, farmers, ranchers,<br />

fishermen, and foresters have recently achieved. Through such “<strong>food</strong> parables,” edi<strong>to</strong>r Gary<br />

Nabhan and his colleagues build a persuasive argument for eater-based conservation.<br />

In addition, this book offers <strong>the</strong> first-ever list of <strong>food</strong>s at risk in America (more than<br />

a thousand) and shows how each of us can person<strong>all</strong>y support and participate in such<br />

recoveries. Organized by “<strong>food</strong> nations” named for <strong>the</strong> ecological and cultural keys<strong>to</strong>ne <strong>food</strong>s<br />

of each region—Salmon Nation, Bison Nation, Chile Pepper Nation, among o<strong>the</strong>rs—this book<br />

offers an al<strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r fresh perspective on <strong>the</strong> culinary traditions of North America.<br />

Chelsea Green<br />

Publication Date: May 2008<br />

350 pages, full-color.<br />

Available through chelseagreen.com or 1-800-639-4099<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />

21


<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />

22<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA is proud of its many accomplishments over <strong>the</strong> past year, but our<br />

achievements would not have been possible without <strong>the</strong> support of <strong>the</strong> people<br />

and organizations listed here. We thank each and every one for <strong>the</strong>ir contribution<br />

<strong>to</strong> a delicious and sustainable <strong>food</strong> system.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> Ark of Taste<br />

($10,000 and above)<br />

A<strong>the</strong>r<strong>to</strong>n Family Foundation<br />

Cedar Tree Foundation<br />

<strong>The</strong> Christensen Fund<br />

Civil Society Institute<br />

Lynne Frame & Richard Hoskins<br />

Iara Lee and George Gund III<br />

Foundation<br />

Jackson Family Farms<br />

<strong>The</strong> Kohlberg Foundation<br />

Lillian Goldman Charitable Trust<br />

OXO<br />

Alexander Palermo & Rachael<br />

Sheridan<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> San Francisco<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tresemer Foundation<br />

At <strong>the</strong> Table ($5,000–$9,999)<br />

Carlson Family Foundation<br />

Earl and Doris Bakken<br />

Foundation<br />

Jonathan Gans & Abigail Turin<br />

Kaiser Permanente Center for<br />

Health Research<br />

Hans & Kate Morris<br />

North Carolina State University<br />

Nancy Schaub<br />

Margaret Schink<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Kitchen ($1,000–<br />

$4,999)<br />

Anonymous<br />

Elana Amsterdam<br />

Brewers Association, Inc.<br />

Eleanor Briggs<br />

David Buchanan<br />

Community Foundation Sonoma<br />

County<br />

Peter & Pat De Garmo<br />

Lili & Wilson Ervin<br />

Carol Field<br />

Elizabeth Garside & Stephen<br />

Warren<br />

Genstar Capital LLC<br />

Hawaii Community Foundation<br />

Jesse Hogan<br />

Elizabeth Hund<br />

Italian Cultural Institute San<br />

Francisco<br />

Allen Katz<br />

Roslyn & Albert Katz<br />

Joan Kedziora<br />

Lynn Eve Komaromi<br />

Brian Lawlor<br />

Karen Lazarus & Robert<br />

DiScalfani<br />

Michael & Aliza Lesser<br />

Schuyler Livings<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Local Wine Events<br />

Muriel Mora<br />

Anna & Mason Mor<strong>fit</strong><br />

Ron Pardini<br />

Michael Pollan & Judith Belzer<br />

Lou & Susan Pres<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Putumayo World Music<br />

Rizzoli International<br />

Publications Inc.<br />

Marty Robinson<br />

Rotary Club of North Hawaii<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> D<strong>all</strong>as<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Portland<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Russian River<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> St. Louis<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> V<strong>all</strong>ey of <strong>the</strong> Moon<br />

Joel Smith & Terra Brockman<br />

<strong>The</strong> Stephen A. & Diana L.<br />

Goldberg Foundation<br />

Triumph Brewing Company of<br />

New Hope<br />

Unilever US Inc.<br />

Whole <strong>Food</strong>s<br />

Steve Wilson<br />

Felicia Woytak & Steve<br />

Rasmussen<br />

Edwin & Grace Schalkwyk Yowell<br />

At <strong>the</strong> Market ($500 - $999)<br />

Jo Anne & Michael Bander<br />

Toby & Charlotte Barbey<br />

Chiara Barbier<br />

Lynda Beierwaltes & Mary<br />

Lempke<br />

Frederick Beinecke<br />

Eleanor Bertino<br />

John Bogart & Carola Mone<br />

Michael Booth & Kristine Smets<br />

Gracie Cavnar<br />

Bettie Coley<br />

Rich & Shelly Collins<br />

Amy Cooper<br />

Alex & Brit d’Arbeloff<br />

Lori Daniel<br />

Philip Di Belardino<br />

Barbara Douglas<br />

Peggy Dulany<br />

Thom & Nancy Duncan<br />

Benjamin Fackler<br />

James & <strong>The</strong>resa Cella Falaschi<br />

Lisa Gershenson<br />

Adrian & Gregg Hale<br />

Nancy Hamren<br />

Kiley & Sean Hanish<br />

Nancy Harmon<br />

Gayle Hemenway & Gary Ama<strong>to</strong><br />

Denise Hudson & Chuck<br />

McDougal<br />

Institu<strong>to</strong> Italiano di Cultura<br />

Chicago<br />

R. A. Jacobs<br />

Rajiv Kohli<br />

Christina Koons<br />

Noel Labat-Comess<br />

Loretta LaFratta<br />

Laurence & Masuko Lesser<br />

Mary Angela Long & Thomas<br />

Wippenbeck<br />

Yo-Yo Ma & Jill Alison Horner<br />

Ben & Barbara Madley<br />

Patience Malone<br />

Rebecca & Jeffrey Marsh<br />

Larry & Laura Martin<br />

Philip Meldrum<br />

Bella Meyer<br />

John & Helen Meyer<br />

Sam Mogannam<br />

Tom & Kristina Montague<br />

William Henry & Robin Moore<br />

Russell Nelson & Leonard Lanzi<br />

Don Oman & Alice Goldstein<br />

Ashley & Scott Pease<br />

Phyllis & Charles Petrillo<br />

Rick & Mary Pitman<br />

Marjorie Randolph<br />

Richard Ray<br />

Jim Reynolds<br />

Roberta Robins & Joel Gartland<br />

Michael Romano<br />

Gretchen Schaffner & Alex Reid<br />

Richard & Susan Shereff<br />

Gary & Susan Spo<strong>to</strong><br />

Angie Vorhies<br />

John Wilmot<br />

Karen & Don Young<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Pantry ($250 - $499)<br />

George Bailey & Porter Watkins<br />

Marian Baldauf & Megan Berka<br />

Peter Berley<br />

Andrew Blau & Hea<strong>the</strong>r Imboden<br />

James & Lisa Bubar<br />

Dolores Cakebread<br />

Christy Canida<br />

Laura Carlson<br />

Sarah Chironi<br />

Robert Tod Chubrich<br />

Jeffrey Clements<br />

Cheryl Coffin & Ralph Topham<br />

William Davnie<br />

Gary & Nancy De Martini<br />

Mark Feichtmeir & Karen Boness<br />

Jennifer & Scott Geller<br />

Mitchell Guthman<br />

Sandra Keros<br />

George Killian<br />

Kristie & Rick Knoll<br />

Jeremy Koch & Ka<strong>the</strong>rine<br />

Humps<strong>to</strong>ne<br />

Michael & Lisa Koch Kornick<br />

G. Thomas Lasher<br />

Eileen & Paul LeFort<br />

Tracy Leonard-Turi<br />

Pamela & Don Lichty<br />

Ka<strong>the</strong>rine Loo<br />

Abby Mandel<br />

Cynthia McClure<br />

Leslie McEachern & Amy Chaplin<br />

Arie McFarlen & Bret Kortie<br />

Christine McGoldrick & Sean<br />

McGoldrick<br />

Ca<strong>the</strong>rine McNamee & Chris<br />

Miller<br />

Neil Nathanson<br />

Deborah Neasi & Avram Miller<br />

Liz Neumark<br />

Thomas Pappas<br />

Rosemary Pritzker<br />

Elisabeth Prueitt & Chad<br />

Robertson<br />

Anna Pump & Merrill Indoe<br />

Nancy Ranney<br />

Roslyn Raskin<br />

Phil & Kay Richardson<br />

Marilyn Roach<br />

Lilly Rubin<br />

Brian & Julie Satterwhite<br />

Robert Schingler<br />

Frederick Schwarz, Jr.<br />

John & Patricia Sharpe<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Katy Trail Convivium<br />

Debby & Baker Smith<br />

Scot Lucas Spicer<br />

Ann & Chris Stack<br />

Eugene & Jean Stark<br />

Susan Su<strong>the</strong>rland & David<br />

Mustelier<br />

Richard <strong>The</strong>is & Carolyn Johnson<br />

David & Karie Thomson<br />

Poppy Tooker & Nicky Muladoo<br />

David Up<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Josh Viertel<br />

James & Ka<strong>the</strong>rine Wassman<br />

Warren & Anne Weisberg<br />

Jacqueline Weltman<br />

Elizabeth Wilson<br />

Daniel Windham & Mary<br />

McElroy<br />

Devera & Michael Witkin<br />

<strong>The</strong> Zyman Foundation, Inc.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> Farm ($100 - $249)<br />

Regina & John Adams<br />

Kathryn & David Allen<br />

Anne Alvord<br />

Tony Ama<strong>to</strong> & Jamie Brown<br />

Christy Anderson & Will Carl<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Bonnie Andrews<br />

Stanley & Barbara Arkin<br />

Gary & Ann Baer<br />

Nancy Bailey & Gary Herzberg<br />

Sam & Karen Barbieri<br />

Barbara Bardin<br />

Ben & Karen Barker<br />

S<strong>all</strong>y & Jim Barrett<br />

Hea<strong>the</strong>r Barta<br />

Richard & Wendy Baskin<br />

Glenn Baumann & Tammy Engel<br />

Judith & Thomas Beckmen<br />

Meredith Bell<br />

Elaine Bellin & Phyllis Coontz<br />

Albert Bentley III<br />

Wendy Berger<br />

Ellen Berryhill<br />

Suzanne Biegel & Daniel Maskit<br />

Krissy & Todd Biernacki<br />

Kathleen Billings<br />

Alyce Birchenough & Doug<br />

Wolbert<br />

Leslie Blair & Bill Gwin<br />

Christy Bohnet<br />

John Bolin<br />

Bob Bonar & Shelby Floyd<br />

Cynthia & James Bowhay<br />

Barbara & Bill Bowman<br />

Barbara Boyle<br />

John & Debbie Braswell<br />

Terrance Brennan<br />

Michelle Brie<br />

Cheryl Brock<br />

Brenda Brodie<br />

J. Carrie Brown<br />

Joseph Brown<br />

Suzie Brown & Marki Knox<br />

Margaret Brownell<br />

Brett Bruyere<br />

Mary Canales<br />

Gabrielle Carbone-Errico &<br />

Mat<strong>the</strong>w Errico<br />

Laurie Carlson & Charles Giuli<br />

Julie Carter & Bob Carter<br />

Baylor Chapman


Ivy Chu<br />

An<strong>to</strong>nino Ciaccio & Virginia<br />

Ciaccio<br />

Gail Coad & James McGinness<br />

Fritzi Cohen<br />

Corinne Colen<br />

Libby Cone & Thomas Borawski<br />

Suzanne Congdon & Randy<br />

Garitty<br />

Bink & Jack Cook<br />

Patricia Cook<br />

Leslie Cooperband & Wes Jarrell<br />

Paul Cooperstein<br />

Candace Cornitius & Daniel<br />

Martinez<br />

Ann Cousineau<br />

Carol Craig<br />

Wendy & Anthony Craven<br />

Claire & Frank Criscuolo<br />

Breeze Cross<br />

Albert Daniti & Tina Crispo<br />

Brooks & Janet Davis<br />

Thalia & Mattson Davis<br />

Margaret DeArdo<br />

Phillip & Hilary Somers Deely<br />

William DeJong<br />

Carole Desnoes<br />

Ka<strong>the</strong>rine Deumling & Brian<br />

Detman<br />

Michael Deverell & Donna Gray<br />

Mag Dimond<br />

Olga Dominguez<br />

Wendy Downing<br />

Mary Dragich & John Pas<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Peter Dressen<br />

Bettina Dreyer<br />

Jon DuClos<br />

Dupont Agriculture and<br />

Nurtrition<br />

Margot Early<br />

Kari Eas<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Eric & Rose Edell<br />

Lee Elliott & William Jones<br />

Mark Elliott<br />

Curtis Ellis<br />

American Express Employee<br />

Giving Program<br />

Bill Ericson & Jennifer Major<br />

John Evenhuis<br />

Stanley & Judith Feder<br />

Sylvia Feldman & Fran<br />

McDermid<br />

Margaret & Joseph Ferretti<br />

Bob & Paula Fey<br />

Jennifer Fields<br />

Mark & Robin Finkelstein<br />

Linda & Mark Fioretti<br />

Sheila Fishman<br />

Sherry Flanders-Page<br />

Leslie Ann Flinn<br />

Joseph Flood & Jeanne Likins<br />

Brendan Flynn<br />

Judith Flynn<br />

Edward Lori Forstein<br />

Sheryl Fox<br />

Nello & Karen Franco<br />

Natalie Frank & Tim Hanson<br />

Rosalind Freundlich<br />

Lewis Friedman & Lynn Passy<br />

David Gan & Lily Lu<br />

Diane Gandee & Dan Sorbi<br />

Lisa Gansky<br />

Flora Gee<br />

Paul Gepts & Elizabeth Garcia<br />

Enrico Giacalone<br />

Scott Gill<br />

Peter Ladd Gilsey<br />

Michael & Carol Gingrich<br />

Paul Giovanelli<br />

Michal Glines<br />

Beth Glosten & David Stutz<br />

Skip & Cookie Glover<br />

Lawrence Gold<br />

Sharon Goldwater<br />

Mariel Goss<br />

David Griffin<br />

David Gross & Sarah Kate<br />

Heilbrun<br />

Anthony Gullace<br />

Kathleen Hagberg<br />

Susie Hagemeister<br />

Gary & Judy Hagge<br />

Walter Hannah<br />

Howard & Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Hanson<br />

Gwen Harada<br />

Bill Hartman<br />

Suzette B Hatfield<br />

Susan Hedrick Brady<br />

Susan Hermanson & Larry<br />

Robinson<br />

Ronald & Eva Herrerias<br />

Laurie Herscher<br />

Pamela Herskovitz<br />

Abigail Higgins<br />

Robert & Metha Hillard<br />

Bobbie & Tatn<strong>all</strong> Hillman<br />

David R. Hirst<br />

W. Jefferson Holt & Kate<br />

Bot<strong>to</strong>mley<br />

Kathy Horne<br />

Rusty Hubbell<br />

Stacie Hunt<br />

Ann Hunter-Welborn & David<br />

Welborn<br />

Doug & Lynn Hutchinson<br />

Inn at Baldwin Creek<br />

Anne Isaak<br />

Ira Jacknis<br />

Ronnie Jacobs<br />

Fritz James<br />

Julie Jensen & Robert Bryan<br />

Dean Johanneck<br />

Carolyn Johnson<br />

Deborah Johnson<br />

Patricia Johnson<br />

Mary Jones<br />

Dan Joslin<br />

Dean Joyce & Emma<br />

Christensen<br />

Sandor Katz<br />

Dick & Sue Kellogg<br />

Michael Kelly & Lou Ann<br />

Seaman<br />

Naomi & Thandeka King<br />

Patricia King<br />

Terry Kinzel & Sue Ellen<br />

Kingsley<br />

Steven Kir<strong>all</strong>a & Lorena Gonda<br />

Dorothy Kirkley<br />

Susan Koe<br />

Glenn Koehrsen<br />

Paul & Andrea Koontz<br />

Katharine Kunst<br />

Frances & Jack Kyte<br />

Lisa La Corte-Kring & Richard<br />

Kring<br />

Paul Ladeira<br />

Nana Lamp<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Mauna Lani Resort<br />

Arthur Lee<br />

Charlie Lefevre & Leslie Scott<br />

Alexandra Leigh-Hunt<br />

Nancy & Tony Lilly<br />

Mark Lodge & <strong>The</strong>resa Fen<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Enrique Lopez & Monica Padilla<br />

Vincent Luciani<br />

Andrea Lucky<br />

David Lundberg & Maria Orefice<br />

Barbara Lutz<br />

John Lyons<br />

Robert Maby<br />

Douglas Mack & Linda Harmon<br />

John Mackie & Kate Ecker<br />

Charles & Rose Maher<br />

Sheri Mahoney<br />

Laura Maioglio & Dr. Gunter<br />

Blobel<br />

Mitchell & Laurie Major<br />

Ann Malzberg<br />

Marin Horizon School<br />

Sheryl & Jose Marquez<br />

Barrie Mars<br />

Emily Masters<br />

Judith McAuley<br />

Carol McCarthy<br />

Meghan McCleary & Jay Keller<br />

Roger & Sharon McErlane<br />

Scott McKay<br />

Donna McLoughlin<br />

Glenda McPherson<br />

Chris & John Meharg<br />

Ellen Mertins<br />

Jen Michaelis<br />

Kay Michaels<br />

Microsoft Matching Gift<br />

Kenneth Migliorelli<br />

Barbara Miller<br />

Sharon Mills<br />

Elizabeth Moisan<br />

Savas Mojarrad<br />

Rick Montague<br />

Susan Montanaro<br />

Cynthia Morgan<br />

Michele Morris<br />

Kim & Grady Moseley<br />

Scott Murray & Nancy Winters<br />

Layla & Austin Musselman<br />

George & Kathleen Heitz Myers<br />

Robert Nail<br />

Anne Niedergang<br />

Nike Nike<br />

Sherrill Nixon<br />

Arthur Nowak<br />

Elizabeth O’Shea<br />

Jane Oakes & Joa Dattilo<br />

Richard O’Dwyer & Katharine<br />

Pickering<br />

Dolores & Nick Orfanakis<br />

Amy Ostrau<br />

David Ottaway<br />

Robert & Meaders Moore<br />

Ozarow<br />

Denise Palmieri & Joseph Logan<br />

Chris<strong>to</strong>pher Papagni<br />

Christine Pardee<br />

William & Liebe Patterson<br />

Jane Pellicciot<strong>to</strong><br />

Bob Perry<br />

Jeff P<strong>fit</strong>zer & Karen Noell<br />

Phan<strong>to</strong>m Labora<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

Philipse Manor Garden Club<br />

Nancy Phillips<br />

Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Pierson & Hunter<br />

Pierson<br />

Cory Pike<br />

Gary & Jean Pokorny<br />

Godfrey Polistina<br />

Barry Popkin<br />

Nora Pouillon<br />

Margaret Power<br />

Harry Presberg<br />

Christine & Doug Pres<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Barbara & David Pryor<br />

Harriet Purtell<br />

Andrew & Laurel Quady<br />

Mary Jo Radosevich<br />

Joanna Rashid<br />

Michael & Darlene Read<br />

Tim & Patricia Redmond<br />

John Respin<strong>to</strong><br />

Joan & Megan Reynolds<br />

Leslyn Rigoni<br />

Barbara Rivers<br />

Rona Roberts<br />

Anne Robertson<br />

Dina Ross<br />

Ellen Rovner<br />

Jocelyne Roy & Peter<br />

O’C<strong>all</strong>aghan<br />

Whitney Jones & Jeffrey Roy<br />

Joan Ruggles Young<br />

Maria Sakellariou & Scott<br />

Thompson<br />

Rita Saltz<br />

Dabney & Walker Sanders<br />

Susan Sarandon<br />

Scott & Wanda Schroeder<br />

Charles Schuchat<br />

Julie Shaffer<br />

Amber Share-Oliver & Stephen<br />

Oliver<br />

Tom Sherman & Nancy<br />

Middlebrook<br />

Alice & Michael Shiffman<br />

Russell Shumaker & Hollister<br />

Lindley<br />

Kerry & Kristen Skel<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Scott & Madeleine Sklar<br />

<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Alta Arizona<br />

Paige Smith<br />

R Martin Smith<br />

Joanne Soued & Rick Soued<br />

Richard Spiegel<br />

Ken Spolarich<br />

Greg Staple<br />

Shannon Stember<br />

Steven Stichter<br />

Leigh S<strong>to</strong>kes & Tom Gerlach<br />

Anna Stulz<br />

Sun Microsystems<br />

Tucker Swan<br />

Tom & Grace Tate<br />

Jean & David Toleman<br />

Virginia Torczon & Michael<br />

Lewis<br />

Hen Truong<br />

Marsha & Jon VanDusseldorp<br />

Linda & Jack Viertel<br />

Estelle Voeller<br />

Roger & Karen Vrilakas<br />

Donald W. Boys & Ann E.<br />

Towsley<br />

Henry & Marion Wainer<br />

Sharon Walker<br />

Richard & Rosemary Walrod<br />

Gerry & Diane Warren<br />

Walter Watson & Jennifer<br />

Maddox<br />

John Watt<br />

Michael Weber & Frances Spivy-<br />

Weber<br />

Earl & Gina Weiner<br />

Nicholas Weingarten & Cynthia<br />

Winter<br />

<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />

23


Friend & Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Wells<br />

Jan Wells<br />

Kari Wenger<br />

Phil & Cameron West<br />

Diane Williams<br />

Jacques Williams & Robin Robar<br />

June & Monty Williams<br />

Barbara & Howard Wollner<br />

Jim & Joan Wright<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Garden ($50 - $99)<br />

Anonymous<br />

Anonymous<br />

Carole Addles<strong>to</strong>ne<br />

Adobe Systems Incorporated<br />

Mat<strong>the</strong>w Arrants & Stacy Smith<br />

Diana Arrieta<br />

Brad Berkin<br />

Michael Berkowitz<br />

Mary Bon & Menno Marringa<br />

Mitch & Karla Booth<br />

Robert Borchardt<br />

BP Matching Funds<br />

Peggy Brown<br />

Alexia Brue & Ethan Klemperer<br />

John Bruno<br />

Joanne Cafiero<br />

Robert Carmany<br />

Christine Cattin & Dale Coke<br />

Joseph Chambers & Barbara Coda<br />

Giovanni Cicero & Sylvia<br />

Christine<br />

Karen Clarke<br />

Bob Conner<br />

Anita & Tom Cook<br />

Roger Cross<br />

Sara Cummings<br />

Janet Davis<br />

Cynthia Devereaux & Thomas<br />

Fischer<br />

Anne Dhunjishaw<br />

John Di Ruocco<br />

Carolyn Dille & Dick Walvis<br />

Lisa & David Duke<br />

Barbara & Don Elliott<br />

Susan & Jan Erdey-Nunley<br />

Richard & Marla Faszholz<br />

Francesco Favazza & Karen Rajcic<br />

Doug & Barbara Flack<br />

Rachel Forrest<br />

Sue Fowells<br />

Carlos & Martha Franco<br />

Donald Frediani & Renata Gasperi<br />

Franca Fusco & David Eustace<br />

Bart Geraci<br />

Global Impact<br />

Joel & Varda Goldman<br />

Thomas Graham & Trina Harrison<br />

Bruce Henry<br />

Stephen Joel Hersh & Dana Ann<br />

Levenberg<br />

Steven Heydemann & Gail David<br />

William & Melissa Hoehn<br />

Henry Homeyer & Karen<br />

Woodbury<br />

Michael Houlihan & Bonnie<br />

Harvey<br />

Laurie Jacobs<br />

Sharon Jones<br />

Carole Kanter<br />

Janice Kend<strong>all</strong> & Wesley Wiley<br />

Joan Kennedy<br />

S<strong>all</strong>y & Tim Kennedy<br />

Gordon & Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Kirschner<br />

Harry Lederman & Sandra Gooch<br />

David & Mari Lee<br />

Susan Lightfoot<br />

Lawrence Loewinger<br />

Maria Maffei<br />

Steffan Manno<br />

Susan Marquis<br />

Jeanne McConnell & Mack<br />

Anderson<br />

Richard & Barbara Meidinger<br />

Gayle & Mike Merkle<br />

Microsoft Matching Gifts Program<br />

Nancy Nipples Douty<br />

Lee Park<br />

Kristan Parks & Anthony Allen<br />

Edward & Geng Passaro<br />

Cynthia Pawlcyn<br />

David Pecusa<br />

Pfizer Foundation Matching Gifts<br />

Program<br />

Juliette Pope<br />

Don & Phyllis Reynolds<br />

Cathie Richardson<br />

Jacques Rieux & Donna Bathory<br />

Alicia Rojas & Howard Lyons<br />

Bruce & Jill Sanchez<br />

John Schulz<br />

Patricia & Fred Sehnert<br />

Schwab Fund for Charitable<br />

Giving<br />

Kristen Siemon & Sam Medford<br />

Libby Spears<br />

Ann Speckman & Rachel<br />

Lavengood<br />

Caterina Sticco Howard<br />

Chandler S<strong>to</strong>lp<br />

Ann & Rick Streiffer<br />

Hilary Sunderland<br />

Wendy & Jon Taggart<br />

Kathryn Tawney<br />

Don Thompson<br />

Terry Trotter<br />

Sarah Valentine<br />

Marla & Chris Vaughn<br />

Paul Vershbow & Karen Jacob<br />

Rick Werner & Barbara Langhenry<br />

Donna Wolf R.D & Clifford Wolf<br />

D.P.M<br />

Pedro Zayas & Marina Roura<br />

Barbara & Michel Zelnick<br />

Yuri Asano & Yoshiro Funabiki<br />

Jill DiLosa & Bob Merritt<br />

Richard & Robin Edwards<br />

Lolis Elie<br />

Donald Gibbon & Linda Bazan<br />

Robin Gingerich<br />

Benjamin Harris & Rebecca<br />

Mitchell<br />

William Keller<br />

Leslie Kohman & Jeffrey Smith<br />

Ann McCarty<br />

Barbara Navelski<br />

Aura Oslapas & Robert Arko<br />

Michele Rosa<br />

Harlan & Audrey Rosenberg


SLOW FOOD USA<br />

20 Jay Street, No. 313<br />

Brooklyn, NY 11201<br />

NONPROFIT<br />

ORGANIZATION<br />

U.S. POSTAGE PAID<br />

NEW YORK, NY 10001<br />

PERMIT NO. 05624

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