all the food that's fit to print The Education Issue - Slow Food
all the food that's fit to print The Education Issue - Slow Food
all the food that's fit to print The Education Issue - Slow Food
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ISSUE SPRING 2008<br />
<strong>all</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> that’s <strong>fit</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>print</strong><br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Education</strong> <strong>Issue</strong><br />
A <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA TM Magazine
In this issue<br />
Edi<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Winnie Yang<br />
edi<strong>to</strong>r@slow<strong>food</strong>usa.org<br />
Design<br />
Julia Reich Design<br />
juliareichdesign.com<br />
Printing<br />
Regina Services Corporation<br />
Edi<strong>to</strong>rial and Advertising Queries<br />
edi<strong>to</strong>r@slow<strong>food</strong>usa.org<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>graphy<br />
cover—(<strong>to</strong>p) Michael Piazza/<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA<br />
(bot<strong>to</strong>m) TKTKTKTK<br />
p. 6–7 (<strong>to</strong>p)—Cecily Up<strong>to</strong>n<br />
p. 7 (bot<strong>to</strong>m)—Diane Hatz<br />
p. 10—(<strong>to</strong>p) Scott Robinson/SFA;<br />
(bot<strong>to</strong>m) Meghan Cohorst/SFA<br />
p. 13—University of Kentucky<br />
p. 14—<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Archives<br />
p. 18—Paloma Torres/<strong>The</strong> Lawrenceville School<br />
p. 19—(left) Penguin Press, (right) Chelsea Green<br />
Publishing<br />
p. 20—Bloodroot<br />
p. 21—Chelsea Green Publishing<br />
<strong>The</strong> Snail is published quarterly by <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA<br />
and is a bene<strong>fit</strong> of membership. Have a question<br />
about membership? Want <strong>to</strong> buy one for a friend?<br />
Visit www.slow<strong>food</strong>usa.org or c<strong>all</strong> (718) 260-8000.<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA Staff<br />
Executive Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Erika Lesser<br />
Assistant <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Executive Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Jerusha Klemperer<br />
Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Development<br />
Gina Fiorillo-Brady<br />
Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Programs<br />
Makalé Faber Cullen<br />
Assistant Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Programs<br />
Jenny Trotter<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> in Schools Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Cecily Up<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Membership and Communications<br />
Deena Goldman<br />
Membership Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Julia De Martini Day<br />
New Convivium Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Yuri Asano<br />
Terra Madre International Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Silvia Monasterolo<br />
Interns<br />
Elizabeth Bird, Jamie Feldmar<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation Staff<br />
Executive Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Anya Fernald<br />
Content Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Sarah Weiner<br />
Operations Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Vera R. Ciammetti<br />
Content Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Gordon Jenkins<br />
Design and Content Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Talia Dillman<br />
Development Coordina<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Paige Lansing<br />
Justice Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Lauren E. Mendez<br />
Office Manager<br />
Mafalda Cogliani<br />
Par<strong>all</strong>el Programs Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Wendy Weiden<br />
For <strong>the</strong> list of convivium leaders,<br />
Regional Governors, International Councillors, Board<br />
of Direc<strong>to</strong>rs, RAFT Partners, and convivia, please<br />
visit www.slow<strong>food</strong>usa.org.<br />
3 From Erika A Letter from <strong>the</strong> National Office<br />
4 Letters<br />
6 Youth in <strong>the</strong> Movement Siv Lie<br />
<strong>The</strong> next generation<br />
7 Greener Pastures Noelle Ferdon<br />
Organic dairy does a student body good<br />
8 Farm <strong>to</strong> Fork: America’s <strong>Food</strong> System Today Kathryn Andersen<br />
9 Teaching <strong>the</strong> Next Generation of Eaters Richard Villadóniga<br />
How <strong>to</strong> get middle schoolers <strong>to</strong> think about <strong>food</strong><br />
10 Would You Like Some Justice with That? Candelario Vazquez<br />
Students and farmworkers band <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> fight fast <strong>food</strong> giants<br />
11 Cultivating Co-producers Ed Yowell<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> NYC’s educational series<br />
12 Fishing Classes for Everyone David Szan<strong>to</strong><br />
UNISG and viral education<br />
13 Sustainable U. Bob Perry<br />
Higher ed heads for a future of better <strong>food</strong><br />
14 Cooking Outside <strong>the</strong> Classroom Alisa Gaylon<br />
Culinary students at <strong>the</strong> farmers’ market<br />
15 S<strong>to</strong>rytelling Anya Fernald<br />
<strong>Education</strong> at <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation<br />
Producer/Co-producer<br />
More sides <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
16 Driving Change in <strong>the</strong> Dining H<strong>all</strong> Severine von Tscharner-Fleming<br />
Better <strong>food</strong> for bettering young minds—and much more<br />
17 <strong>The</strong> Incredible, Edible, Unattainable Egg Gary Giberson<br />
19 Books<br />
How <strong>to</strong> get a loc<strong>all</strong>y sourced school lunch<br />
In Defense of <strong>Food</strong>: An Eater’s Manifes<strong>to</strong>; Sharing <strong>the</strong> Harvest:<br />
A Citizen’s Guide <strong>to</strong> Community Supported Agriculture; Manifes<strong>to</strong>s on <strong>the</strong><br />
Future of <strong>Food</strong> and Seed; <strong>The</strong> Best of Bloodroot, Renewing America’s<br />
<strong>Food</strong> Traditions<br />
22 <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA Donors 2007
Dear Members,<br />
I confess: I like when things are a<br />
mess. More precisely, I am attracted<br />
<strong>to</strong> things that are complex, ambiguous,<br />
ch<strong>all</strong>enging. Maybe that’s why I<br />
like studying <strong>food</strong>. When it comes <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>food</strong>, <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ry is always messy, especi<strong>all</strong>y<br />
when you’re trying <strong>to</strong> get at <strong>the</strong><br />
truth.<br />
Take <strong>the</strong> New York Times’s recent<br />
report on mercury levels in tuna<br />
From Erika<br />
(January 23, 2008). I’m always hopeful<br />
when <strong>food</strong> issues jump from <strong>the</strong><br />
Dining section <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> front page, not<br />
only because more people read about <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong>re, but also because <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
is more likely <strong>to</strong> integrate political, economic and ecological dimensions,<br />
ra<strong>the</strong>r than recipes or wine pairings. But in this case, no word count or headline<br />
could do justice <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>pic, because <strong>the</strong> truth is, a real discussion of<br />
tuna can’t just be about what quantity is safe <strong>to</strong> eat according <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> EPA.<br />
What about <strong>the</strong> imminent collapse of worldwide tuna populations,<br />
endemic pollution of <strong>the</strong> oceans (and <strong>all</strong> <strong>the</strong> plants and animals in it, especi<strong>all</strong>y<br />
those high on <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> chain like tuna), sea<strong>food</strong>’s paradoxic<strong>all</strong>y robust<br />
reputation as a health <strong>food</strong>, deep-sea sport fishing, <strong>the</strong> ubiqui<strong>to</strong>us tuna<br />
melt? What about <strong>the</strong> longevity of <strong>the</strong> Japanese, who eat more bluefin tuna<br />
than anyone worldwide, or <strong>the</strong> dying tradition of <strong>the</strong> mattanza, <strong>the</strong> centuriesold<br />
hunt for bluefin off <strong>the</strong> coast of Sicily?<br />
Messy indeed. Fortunately, <strong>food</strong> writers are not alone in studying <strong>the</strong><br />
most complicated <strong>food</strong> questions any more: now farmers and <strong>food</strong> producers,<br />
college students and professors, white-tablecloth chefs and lunch ladies,<br />
environmentalists and capitalists are <strong>all</strong> getting in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> game, trying <strong>to</strong><br />
understand how <strong>to</strong> connect <strong>the</strong> dots. A few of <strong>the</strong>m are profiled in this issue,<br />
along with <strong>the</strong>ir efforts <strong>to</strong> use education—in <strong>all</strong> its forms—<strong>to</strong> demystify<br />
what is at once universal and inscrutable: what we put on our plates and in<br />
our bellies everyday.<br />
Studying <strong>food</strong> is undeniably a complex and interdisciplinary act. When<br />
we figure out how <strong>to</strong> put <strong>the</strong> true and messy s<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>food</strong> on every newspaper’s<br />
front page, every single day, we’ll be that much closer <strong>to</strong> knowing who<br />
we are, from what we eat.<br />
Buon appeti<strong>to</strong>!<br />
Erika Lesser<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />
3
Letters<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />
4<br />
Animal, Vegetable; Right and Wrong<br />
It’s an interesting spread in <strong>the</strong> Winter Snail: Joel Salatin<br />
and his sustainably-raised pigs in verso; Peter Singer<br />
and Jim Mason with <strong>the</strong>ir bioethical conundrums<br />
in rec<strong>to</strong>. I wasn’t sure, though, what this particular<br />
argument was doing in <strong>the</strong> American <strong>Food</strong> Traditions<br />
issue of <strong>the</strong> magazine, since Singer and Mason’s<br />
vegetarian fundamentalism is a ch<strong>all</strong>enge <strong>to</strong> <strong>all</strong><br />
American <strong>food</strong> traditions and a celebration of none.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y ask, “Does eating only humanely raised<br />
animals <strong>all</strong>ow an impregnable defense of one’s diet?”<br />
This is a profoundly inappropriate question for a<br />
number of reasons, but princip<strong>all</strong>y because it makes<br />
<strong>the</strong> category error of treating evolutionary biology as<br />
a moral issue. It is one thing <strong>to</strong> question <strong>the</strong> ethics of<br />
Smithfield’s cruel, <strong>to</strong>xic and unsustainable practices—it<br />
is quite ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> extend those questions <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
six million-year his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>the</strong> omnivorous diet of<br />
hominids. Vegetarianism is like celibacy—it may be<br />
attractive <strong>to</strong> some, and even healthy for some, but you<br />
can’t make <strong>the</strong> case that it’s mor<strong>all</strong>y inevitable.<br />
Singer and Mason also ask why Michael Pollan’s<br />
evident objections <strong>to</strong> killing don’t apply <strong>to</strong> animals.<br />
I’d ask why <strong>the</strong>y don’t apply <strong>to</strong> broccoli. <strong>The</strong> standard<br />
answer is that vegetables are not sentient, but <strong>the</strong> fact<br />
is that <strong>all</strong> life forms express <strong>the</strong>ir preference for life and<br />
do whatever <strong>the</strong>y can <strong>to</strong> avoid death, so if we base our<br />
diets on <strong>the</strong> preferences of <strong>the</strong> life forms we eat, we’re<br />
going <strong>to</strong> be hungry. <strong>The</strong> real difference between animals<br />
and vegetables is that animals, especi<strong>all</strong>y mammals,<br />
express <strong>the</strong>ir preferences in ways that remind us of<br />
us—we look in <strong>the</strong>ir eyes and see ourselves <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
That’s anthropomorphism, not ethics; it’s an aes<strong>the</strong>tic<br />
preference and doesn’t belong in a serious discussion of<br />
<strong>food</strong> policy.<br />
I person<strong>all</strong>y have no interest in eating dog or<br />
horse—dogs and horses are my friends and <strong>all</strong>ies, not<br />
my dinner—but I recognize that this isn’t a matter of<br />
ethics, it’s a matter of culture. I also have no appetite<br />
for chimp, or whale; I’m not eating an animal with<br />
whom I could have a conversation, and <strong>the</strong> very idea is<br />
so disturbing <strong>to</strong> me that I’m tempted <strong>to</strong> do violence <strong>to</strong><br />
prevent o<strong>the</strong>rs from eating <strong>the</strong>m. But I forbear, because<br />
once again I understand that my worldview is different<br />
from that of <strong>the</strong> Inuit who depend on <strong>the</strong> whale, or <strong>the</strong><br />
Congolese who appreciate bush meat.<br />
Here of course we run in<strong>to</strong> an interesting confluence<br />
of problems: chimpanzees are endangered, and <strong>the</strong> hunt<br />
for bush meat is threatening <strong>the</strong>ir survival as a species,<br />
just as <strong>the</strong> Japanese whale hunt threatens <strong>the</strong> humpback.<br />
<strong>The</strong>se practices should be s<strong>to</strong>pped, but <strong>the</strong>y should be<br />
s<strong>to</strong>pped because <strong>the</strong>y are unsustainable and threaten <strong>the</strong><br />
planet’s biodiversity, not because <strong>the</strong>y are distasteful <strong>to</strong><br />
Westerners. This is an important distinction that we in<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> movement need <strong>to</strong> understand and respect.<br />
<strong>The</strong> point here is that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> agenda,<br />
which includes <strong>the</strong> quality of <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> produced,<br />
<strong>the</strong> sustainability of <strong>the</strong> practices used, and <strong>the</strong> fair<br />
compensation of <strong>all</strong> involved, is a solid foundation on<br />
which <strong>to</strong> build a dietary ethic; evangelical vegetarianism<br />
is not. <strong>The</strong> former is a big tent; it has room for <strong>the</strong><br />
wide world of diets and cultures and <strong>food</strong>ways, and<br />
its pragmatic sense of right and wrong distinguishes<br />
quite reasonably between what Joel Salatin is doing<br />
on Polyface Farm and <strong>the</strong> horror being wrought by<br />
Smithfield. <strong>The</strong> latter is a narrow, aes<strong>the</strong>tic view that<br />
presumes <strong>to</strong> judge <strong>the</strong> entire his<strong>to</strong>ry of human eating<br />
as mor<strong>all</strong>y deficient. Vegetarianism as a lifestyle choice<br />
is just fine, but if what we want is <strong>to</strong> build a worldwide,<br />
sustainable and reliable <strong>food</strong> system, moralistic<br />
vegetarianism is a dog that won’t hunt.<br />
David Berman<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> NYC<br />
Your selection of <strong>the</strong> Peter Singer/Jim Mason excerpt<br />
leaves this reader and new member bemused,<br />
confounded, disappointed, and wondering if I should<br />
ask for a refund of my membership dollars. Your<br />
magazine missed an incredible opportunity <strong>to</strong> use<br />
<strong>the</strong> Producer/Co-producer juxtaposition <strong>to</strong> streng<strong>the</strong>n<br />
bonds between local artisanal farmers and informed<br />
patrons. Instead, we’re presented with a very weak<br />
attempt at some type of point/counterpoint that pits<br />
<strong>the</strong> so-c<strong>all</strong>ed “co-producer” against <strong>the</strong> producer and<br />
leaves us with <strong>the</strong> distinct impression that <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />
thinks we should seriously consider veganism as an<br />
alternative diet. Given that Singer himself uses <strong>the</strong><br />
political tactic of bifurcation <strong>to</strong> draw an enthusiastic<br />
following, it’s no wonder that one of his apparent<br />
followers has selected <strong>the</strong> approach here—including a<br />
faith-bashing, ad-hominem (“speciesist”) attack on a<br />
man who’s given his life <strong>to</strong> redemption of <strong>the</strong> soil.<br />
<strong>The</strong> disinformation regarding <strong>the</strong> protein production<br />
capacity of land with animals versus crops is also<br />
disappointing (comparing industrial crop production<br />
yields <strong>to</strong> extensive ranging!). Please become informed<br />
of modern grass-based husbandry methods, including<br />
management intensive grazing (MiG) and ultra-high<br />
s<strong>to</strong>cking density (UHSD), <strong>the</strong>ir analog in wild herd
ehavior, and <strong>the</strong>ir bene<strong>fit</strong>s in terms of forage/protein<br />
production efficiency, soil organic matter production and<br />
carbon sequestration in soil.<br />
Respectfully,<br />
Larry C. Howard<br />
Joel Salatin responds: While I do not think <strong>the</strong> Snail is<br />
engaging in a veiled point-counterpoint excercise, I do<br />
agree that Larry Howard makes several salient points.<br />
Peter Singer indicates that my Judeo-Christian faith<br />
regarding <strong>the</strong> human having a soul and <strong>the</strong>reby placing<br />
humans and animals on two different levels is not worth<br />
arguing because it’s religious. Does he not appreciate that<br />
it takes a lot of faith <strong>to</strong> believe humans are only animals<br />
with a bigger brain? And if we are just animals, why does<br />
my eating a cow constitute abuse when a cat eating a<br />
mouse is natural? How about swatting a fly, or smashing<br />
a gnat against my cheek on a humid summer evening? All<br />
of us are religious and have faith in something, even if it is<br />
ourselves. To dismiss entire cultures because <strong>the</strong>ir views<br />
differ from mine is a myopic worldview indeed.<br />
I am not <strong>the</strong> one demanding departure from traditional<br />
norms. <strong>The</strong> vegan zealot, by saying that my meat eating<br />
is inherently abusive, is far more his<strong>to</strong>ric<strong>all</strong>y odd and<br />
presently narrow than those of us who enjoy choice. Vegans<br />
don’t bo<strong>the</strong>r me at <strong>all</strong> . . . until <strong>the</strong>y make <strong>the</strong>ir choice a<br />
religion and demand that I comply.<br />
Fin<strong>all</strong>y, Singer bumbles in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> ultimate ecological<br />
disconnect by accusing domestic lives<strong>to</strong>ck of being land<br />
wasteful. He thinks if we <strong>all</strong> just ate plant matter, <strong>the</strong> world<br />
would be a better place. Let’s assume for a moment that we<br />
could <strong>all</strong> be healthy on a plant diet—a stretch <strong>to</strong> be sure. <strong>The</strong><br />
data that disparages meat as inherently anti-environmental<br />
<strong>all</strong> assumes fac<strong>to</strong>ry farming, grain-based, industrialmodeled<br />
<strong>food</strong> systems. As soon as <strong>the</strong> production model<br />
changes <strong>to</strong> perennial pasture-based, portable infrastructure,<br />
appropriate rest and scale, <strong>all</strong> <strong>the</strong> negatives become<br />
positives and animals become instead <strong>the</strong> most efficient<br />
landscape healers possible. It’s <strong>all</strong> in <strong>the</strong> model.<br />
Limited Resources vs. Legal Action<br />
I joined <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> after hearing about <strong>the</strong> organization<br />
at <strong>the</strong> International Buffalo Conference in Rapid City,<br />
SD. My husband and I live on our family farm which was<br />
purchased in <strong>the</strong> late ‘40s by my fa<strong>the</strong>r. We employ two<br />
full-time employees, raise corn, soybeans, winter and<br />
spring wheat, cattle, and buffalo, and try <strong>to</strong> make a living<br />
and a life.<br />
We farm in <strong>the</strong> face of not knowing what fuel, seed, and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r expenses will be <strong>to</strong> raise <strong>the</strong> crop for next year. We<br />
have no control of <strong>the</strong> prices we get for our commodities<br />
and are at <strong>the</strong> mercy of <strong>the</strong> markets on <strong>the</strong> grain<br />
exchanges and whatever <strong>the</strong> price is <strong>the</strong> day we take our<br />
animals <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn. We also have no control over <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r,<br />
<strong>the</strong> rain that we need <strong>to</strong> grow anything, or s<strong>to</strong>rms, hail, etc.<br />
Agriculture is a gamble in <strong>the</strong> best of times.<br />
I would like <strong>to</strong> respond <strong>to</strong> James C. Rainie’s letter <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
edi<strong>to</strong>r in <strong>the</strong> Winter Snail about farmers being proactive<br />
and suing Monsan<strong>to</strong> for polluting <strong>the</strong>ir crops.<br />
I have heard about a farmer who was in legal<br />
proceedings with Monsan<strong>to</strong>. I’m not sure who started<br />
<strong>the</strong> suit, but I believe <strong>the</strong> farmer lost his farm due <strong>to</strong><br />
lawyer fees. <strong>The</strong> fact is that no one farmer, or even a<br />
group of farmers, has <strong>the</strong> resources and knowledge about<br />
lawyers that could win a suit against <strong>the</strong> giant company<br />
of Monsan<strong>to</strong>. <strong>The</strong>ir lawyers could drag things out, using<br />
up <strong>the</strong> resources of <strong>the</strong> farmer quickly, and have <strong>the</strong> big<br />
dollars and guns behind <strong>the</strong>ir company that a farmer<br />
could not ever compete with.<br />
Monsan<strong>to</strong> is also a company that has invested $$$ in<strong>to</strong><br />
research for plants and products that make farming a bit<br />
pro<strong>fit</strong>able. <strong>The</strong>y sell millions of dollars’ worth of products<br />
<strong>to</strong> farmers and have a monopoly on many things that<br />
farmers need and use. A farmer is almost like a serf with<br />
his indebtedness <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> company.<br />
Farmers have survived on <strong>the</strong>ir farms because <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are very independent and bullheaded. <strong>The</strong>y tend not <strong>to</strong><br />
work well <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r in some business adventures because<br />
of <strong>the</strong>ir independent natures. My fa<strong>the</strong>r is a strongwilled<br />
farmer of German heritage and, at 81, does not want <strong>to</strong><br />
give up control of what he has built up in his lifetime. Even<br />
in programs like Farmers Union and <strong>the</strong> Farm Bureau,<br />
<strong>the</strong>re are many differences of how <strong>to</strong> do things and <strong>the</strong>y<br />
also are not large enough <strong>to</strong> have <strong>the</strong> money it takes <strong>to</strong><br />
take on a company like Monsan<strong>to</strong>.<br />
So suing just isn’t that simple.<br />
We need people in <strong>the</strong> cities <strong>to</strong> protect and support<br />
people who grow <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>food</strong>. Maybe we don’t <strong>all</strong> do it<br />
organic like folks would like, but we do need your support<br />
so we can make a living and keep providing you with <strong>food</strong>.<br />
My husband and I came back <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> farm 12 years<br />
ago. <strong>The</strong> farm income needed <strong>to</strong> be supplemented for<br />
our family <strong>to</strong> make a living and I did not want <strong>to</strong> find a<br />
teaching job and work off <strong>the</strong> farm. I started a bed and<br />
breakfast on <strong>the</strong> farm, and after 10 years in <strong>the</strong> business,<br />
I am now bringing in more income than if I went <strong>to</strong> work<br />
in <strong>to</strong>wn for $10 an hour, for a 40 hours a week. I get <strong>to</strong><br />
have <strong>the</strong> flexibility <strong>to</strong> work when I want, <strong>to</strong> volunteer in<br />
my local community, and <strong>to</strong> help <strong>the</strong> guys on <strong>the</strong> farm<br />
when I need <strong>to</strong>. <strong>The</strong> greatest reward is that I get <strong>to</strong> share<br />
farming and farm life with some folks who have never<br />
been on a farm. That is awesome.<br />
Darla Loewen<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />
5
Youth in <strong>the</strong> Movement<br />
—By Siv Lie<br />
<strong>The</strong> next generation<br />
My experience with <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> has shown<br />
me that change—in <strong>food</strong> systems as well<br />
as in mindsets—is possible, though it takes<br />
patience and concerted effort. It is clear that<br />
establishing a solid youth base is crucial <strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong><br />
<strong>Food</strong>’s success now and in <strong>the</strong> future.<br />
Already, youth-generated <strong>food</strong> initiatives<br />
are happening in <strong>the</strong> US, with more than<br />
just nutrition or good taste as motives. Last<br />
November, for example, more than 150 university<br />
students from across <strong>the</strong> Nor<strong>the</strong>ast ga<strong>the</strong>red<br />
at <strong>the</strong> Real <strong>Food</strong> Summit, a meeting <strong>to</strong> organize<br />
a national movement around <strong>food</strong> on college<br />
campuses. More and more young people are<br />
Young people are realizing not only that <strong>the</strong>ir bags of<br />
chips are bad for <strong>the</strong>ir bodies, but that <strong>the</strong> GM soybean<br />
oil in which <strong>the</strong> chips are fried could also be damaging<br />
<strong>the</strong> environment, and that it’s not family farmers who<br />
are making <strong>the</strong> pro<strong>fit</strong>s from those pota<strong>to</strong>es<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />
6<br />
taking a second look at <strong>the</strong>ir bags of chips, realizing not only that <strong>the</strong>y’re bad for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
bodies, but that <strong>the</strong> GM soybean oil in which <strong>the</strong>y’re fried could also be damaging <strong>the</strong><br />
environment, and that it’s not family farmers who are making <strong>the</strong> pro<strong>fit</strong>s from those<br />
pota<strong>to</strong>es. Our generation will have <strong>to</strong> deal with <strong>the</strong>se consequences, and it’s up <strong>to</strong> us<br />
<strong>to</strong> change <strong>the</strong> direction things are going.<br />
One of <strong>the</strong> major criticisms faced by <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> is that it is elitist. It is a fac<strong>to</strong>r in<br />
alienating youth from <strong>the</strong> organization. It can seem like participation is only open <strong>to</strong><br />
those who have <strong>the</strong> means <strong>to</strong> care that much about good <strong>food</strong>, while many people<br />
struggle just <strong>to</strong> put something nutritious and satisfying on <strong>the</strong> table. <strong>The</strong>re is an<br />
obvious discrepancy between <strong>the</strong> tastes and habits of younger and older people, and<br />
as <strong>the</strong> current makeup of convivia suggests, <strong>the</strong> older generations are determining<br />
what <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> stands for in practice. Though our tastes are becoming more refined,<br />
for most of us, our idea of “artisanal” and “local” is a vegetarian calzone from <strong>the</strong><br />
nearest pizza joint, and we usu<strong>all</strong>y sip our Two-Buck Chuck out of plastic cups and<br />
coffee mugs. Expensive dinners, specialty wine tastings, and artisanal showcases<br />
are a <strong>to</strong>ugher sell. <strong>The</strong> values of good, clean, and fair <strong>food</strong> for <strong>all</strong> may remain in <strong>the</strong><br />
consciousness of convivia, but democratic ideals are difficult <strong>to</strong> attain when such a<br />
sm<strong>all</strong> section of <strong>the</strong> population is able <strong>to</strong> get involved.<br />
This is why youth are so important <strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> at this time. Many of us have<br />
more than just an excess of energy and undiminished optimism. Without <strong>to</strong>o many<br />
obligations keeping us in one place, we are free <strong>to</strong> roam and gain valuable first-hand<br />
experiences. We are eager <strong>to</strong> try out new things such as farming and cooking. We are<br />
also children of <strong>the</strong> technological age, so online networking is a cinch. We want <strong>to</strong><br />
know what people in o<strong>the</strong>r parts of <strong>the</strong> world are doing and <strong>to</strong> exchange knowledge<br />
and ideas with <strong>the</strong>m. Already we are building a network<br />
focused on youth and <strong>food</strong> systems, one which aims <strong>to</strong> be as<br />
inclusive as possible: this means involving not just students,<br />
Siv Lie is a student at<br />
Bos<strong>to</strong>n University by day<br />
nad a pastry chef at night.<br />
Youth leaders at <strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong><br />
<strong>Food</strong> International Congress in<br />
Puebla, Mexico
ut young farmers, chefs, and o<strong>the</strong>r players in <strong>food</strong> communities worldwide.<br />
Obviously, <strong>the</strong> concept of global awareness and engagement is nothing<br />
new <strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong>. However, what makes youth so essential <strong>to</strong> advancing this<br />
global community is our incentive <strong>to</strong> push beyond ideology. We have little <strong>to</strong><br />
lose in confronting <strong>the</strong> forces that oppose us and in experimenting with new<br />
projects. We are extremely creative in working with limited resources and are<br />
determined <strong>to</strong> make “real <strong>food</strong>” more accessible <strong>to</strong> a wider population. We<br />
trust and value <strong>the</strong> wisdom of those more experienced than us, and we take<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir guidance and examples in<strong>to</strong> account as we undertake immediate, wellplanned<br />
action. We are at <strong>the</strong> same time idealistic and realistic, acknowledging<br />
that <strong>the</strong>re are better ways of producing <strong>food</strong>, but that modern lifestyles and<br />
ingrained ways of thinking must be considered.<br />
Worldviews are, of course, one of <strong>the</strong> most difficult barriers <strong>to</strong> face in<br />
bringing about <strong>the</strong>se kinds of changes. Even among <strong>the</strong> brightest and most<br />
forward-thinking young minds, <strong>the</strong>re is much resistance <strong>to</strong> change for a<br />
number of reasons. It takes courage <strong>to</strong> accept <strong>the</strong> realities of our <strong>food</strong> systems,<br />
and it’s easy <strong>to</strong> ignore <strong>the</strong> current and potential ramifications of <strong>the</strong> way we<br />
Continued on page 21<br />
Greener Pastures<br />
Organic dairy does a student body good<br />
— By Noelle Ferdon<br />
<strong>The</strong> consumer demand for organic and rBGH-free<br />
milk has risen <strong>to</strong> <strong>all</strong> time highs in <strong>the</strong> United States.<br />
Fortunately, <strong>the</strong> interest in producing milk <strong>to</strong> meet this<br />
higher quality standard has risen <strong>to</strong>o. At <strong>the</strong> same time,<br />
<strong>the</strong>re is a new generation of milk producers learning<br />
hands-on organic techniques, thanks <strong>to</strong> a new organic<br />
dairy at California State University, Chico (CSUC).<br />
In spring 2007 CSUC opened <strong>the</strong> campus-based Center<br />
for Organic Dairy Production, only <strong>the</strong> second of its kind<br />
in <strong>the</strong> country. After meeting Tony Azevedo, an organic<br />
dairyman in <strong>the</strong> San Joaquin v<strong>all</strong>ey, and hearing his<br />
s<strong>to</strong>ry about going organic, Dr. Cindy Daley, direc<strong>to</strong>r of<br />
<strong>the</strong> Center, was convinced that going organic was a wise<br />
decision for <strong>the</strong> future success of <strong>the</strong> program. Dr. Daley<br />
has worked <strong>to</strong> convert 85 acres of land at <strong>the</strong> Chico State<br />
Farm, as it is known loc<strong>all</strong>y, <strong>to</strong> certified organic pasture,<br />
where students can graze a sm<strong>all</strong> herd. With <strong>the</strong> campuswide<br />
commitment <strong>to</strong> sustainability, <strong>the</strong> timing was<br />
perfect for <strong>the</strong> dairy program <strong>to</strong> go organic.<br />
However, it takes more than just teaching students<br />
organic methods <strong>to</strong> make organic a long-term and viable<br />
option for <strong>the</strong> dairy: <strong>the</strong> milk has <strong>to</strong> go somewhere!<br />
Fortunately, <strong>the</strong> dairy program was able <strong>to</strong> forge a<br />
partnership with Organic V<strong>all</strong>ey, a nationwide cooperative<br />
of organic milk producers. Organic V<strong>all</strong>ey began in 1988<br />
as a farmer-owned cooperative that serves sm<strong>all</strong> farmers<br />
by providing a cooperative approach <strong>to</strong> purchasing and<br />
marketing. <strong>The</strong> CSUC dairy pools its milk with o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
organic producers in <strong>the</strong> western region, which is <strong>the</strong>n<br />
sold under <strong>the</strong> Organic V<strong>all</strong>ey label or used <strong>to</strong> make valueadded<br />
products like cheese or butter. This partnership<br />
is a win-win situation for <strong>the</strong> new generation of organic<br />
sm<strong>all</strong>-scale farmers as well as conscientious consumers.<br />
<strong>The</strong> local convivium in Chico, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Shasta<br />
Cascade (SFSC), was also thrilled about <strong>the</strong> new organic<br />
dairy. When <strong>the</strong> Eat Well Guided Tour of America, hosted<br />
by Sustainable Table and <strong>Food</strong> & Water Watch, came<br />
through Chico in July 2007, SFSC immediately planned a<br />
s<strong>to</strong>p <strong>the</strong>re. On a sunny summer morning, SFSC leaders<br />
and members got on <strong>the</strong> bus and headed out <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Chico<br />
State Farm. It was just what one would expect from a<br />
visit <strong>to</strong> an organic dairy—happy, healthy cows munching<br />
on green pasture. <strong>The</strong> community is proud <strong>to</strong> see our<br />
state university contribute <strong>to</strong> a regional, sustainable <strong>food</strong><br />
system that is good, clean, and fair, while also educating a<br />
new generation of leaders in organic <strong>food</strong> production.<br />
Noelle Ferdon is a founding member and co-leader of <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Shasta<br />
Cascade, <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rnmost convivium in California. Noelle is a Senior<br />
Organizer of <strong>Food</strong> Campaigns in California for <strong>Food</strong> & Water Watch. For<br />
more information, contact Noelle Ferdon at nferdon@fwwatch.org<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />
7
grew up on a sm<strong>all</strong>-scale organic farm, but I was new<br />
I <strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> when I matriculated at Prince<strong>to</strong>n in 2004.<br />
That f<strong>all</strong> I participated in Terra Madre, and I returned<br />
determined <strong>to</strong> make <strong>food</strong> and agriculture an integral part<br />
of my education. But Prince<strong>to</strong>n offered not one course on<br />
sustainable <strong>food</strong> and agriculture. With faculty modera<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Deborah Popper, I created a seminar <strong>to</strong> address that<br />
oversight. —Kathryn Andersen<br />
Farm <strong>to</strong> Fork: America’s <strong>Food</strong> System Today<br />
Abbreviated Syllabus<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />
8<br />
Class 1: <strong>The</strong> Human Relationship <strong>to</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />
An introduction <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> relationship between humans and<br />
<strong>food</strong>, how culture affects what we eat<br />
E.N. Anderson, Everyone Eats: Understanding <strong>Food</strong> and<br />
Culture; M.F.K. Fisher, “<strong>The</strong> Arts (Fine and Culinary) of<br />
Nineteenth Century America,” New York Times<br />
Class 2: <strong>The</strong> Omnivorous American<br />
<strong>The</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>food</strong> in America leading up <strong>to</strong> our present diet<br />
and how <strong>the</strong> first Americans ate<br />
Michael Pollan, <strong>The</strong> Omnivore’s Dilemma; Sandra Oliver,<br />
“Eating Habits,” <strong>Food</strong> in Colonial and Federal America<br />
<strong>the</strong> United States<br />
Speaker: Sandra Oliver, <strong>food</strong> his<strong>to</strong>rian<br />
Class 3: Agriculture and Agrarian Society<br />
American agricultural his<strong>to</strong>ry from <strong>the</strong> perspective of an<br />
agricultural economist<br />
Bruce L. Gardner, American Agriculture in <strong>the</strong> Twentieth<br />
Century: How it Flourished and What It Cost<br />
Speaker: Mikey Azzarra, NOFA-NJ<br />
Class 4: Transportation and Distribution in a Global<br />
<strong>Food</strong> System<br />
<strong>The</strong> structure of our national <strong>food</strong> system and <strong>the</strong><br />
organization of <strong>the</strong> commodity chain<br />
Donna Gabaccia, “As American as Budweiser and<br />
Pickles: Nation-Building in American <strong>Food</strong> Industries,”<br />
<strong>Food</strong> Nations: Selling Taste in Consumer Societies<br />
Comparison of different products from Whole Earth<br />
Center, Whole <strong>Food</strong>s, Wegmans, SuperFresh, and Wawa<br />
Class 5: Organic Agriculture and <strong>the</strong> Environment<br />
<strong>The</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>the</strong> organic movement from <strong>the</strong> Rodale<br />
Institute and biodynamic agriculture <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> creation of USDA<br />
labelling; “big” and “sm<strong>all</strong>” organic<br />
Samuel Fromartz, Organic, Inc.: Natural <strong>Food</strong>s and<br />
How <strong>The</strong>y Grew; Mrill Ingram, Stephen L. Buchmann,<br />
and Gary Nabhan, <strong>The</strong> Forgotten Pollina<strong>to</strong>rs<br />
Speakers: Hansjakob Werlen, Swarthmore College,<br />
co-leader of <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Philadelphia; Ruth Reichl,<br />
edi<strong>to</strong>r of Gourmet<br />
FIELD TRIP S<strong>to</strong>ne Barns Center for <strong>Food</strong> and<br />
Agriculture, Pocantico Hills, New York, meet with<br />
Dan Barber<br />
Class 6: <strong>The</strong> Fac<strong>to</strong>ry Farm and Industrialization<br />
<strong>The</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry farm, conventional <strong>food</strong>, and fast <strong>food</strong><br />
Up<strong>to</strong>n Sinclair, <strong>The</strong> Jungle; Peter Singer, Animal Liberation<br />
and <strong>The</strong> Way We Eat; Eric Schlosser, Fast <strong>Food</strong> Nation<br />
Speaker: Josh Balk, Outreach Direc<strong>to</strong>r of <strong>the</strong> Fac<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
Farming Campaign at <strong>the</strong> Humane Society<br />
Class 7: Government Regulations I: <strong>Food</strong> Politics<br />
Lobbyists and farm subsidies in <strong>the</strong> United States, <strong>the</strong><br />
upcoming Farm Bill<br />
Marion Nestle, <strong>Food</strong> Politics<br />
FIELD TRIP Tour of Cherry Grove Farm, Terhune Orchard<br />
Class 8: Government Regulations II: Safety,<br />
Labeling, and GMOs<br />
<strong>The</strong> debate over genetic<strong>all</strong>y-modified <strong>food</strong>, government<br />
regulation in <strong>food</strong> production, and labels<br />
Peter Pringle, <strong>Food</strong>, Inc.; Michael Pollan, <strong>The</strong> Botany of<br />
Desire<br />
Film: “<strong>The</strong> Future of <strong>Food</strong>”<br />
Speakers: Carl Pray, Professor at Rutgers; Xenia Morin,<br />
Lecturer at Prince<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Class 9: Nutrition I: Obesity of Epidemic Proportions<br />
HFCS and palm oil, portion size increases, and school lunches<br />
Kelly Brownell, <strong>Food</strong> Fight: <strong>The</strong> Inside S<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />
Industry, America’s Obesity Crisis, and What We Can Do<br />
About It<br />
Speaker: Elyse Pivnick, Isles of Tren<strong>to</strong>n, NJ<br />
Class 10: Nutrition II: Real <strong>Food</strong><br />
What should we eat?<br />
Nina Planck, Real <strong>Food</strong><br />
Speakers: Chef Ann Cooper, Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Nutrition<br />
Services for Berkeley Unified School District (BUSD);<br />
Gary Giberson, Direc<strong>to</strong>r of Dining Services at <strong>the</strong><br />
Lawrenceville School<br />
Class 11: <strong>The</strong> Future of <strong>Food</strong><br />
How America’s <strong>food</strong> system should and could change<br />
in <strong>the</strong> future<br />
Warren Belasco, Meals <strong>to</strong> Come<br />
FIELD TRIP: Tour of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Network, visit Jeffrey<br />
Steingarten<br />
Class 12: Pleasure in Eating<br />
<strong>Food</strong> on one’s plate: gastronomy, conviviality, and pleasure in<br />
sharing a meal<br />
M.F.K. Fisher, “Savoring Winter,” New York Times<br />
Speaker: Craig Laban, restaurant critic from <strong>the</strong><br />
Philadelphia Inquirer
Teaching <strong>the</strong> Next Generation of Eaters<br />
— By Richard Villadóniga<br />
How <strong>to</strong> get middle schoolers <strong>to</strong> think about <strong>food</strong><br />
remember reading Fast <strong>Food</strong> Nation for <strong>the</strong><br />
I first time and thinking <strong>to</strong> myself that I had<br />
<strong>to</strong> share it with my students. I wanted each of<br />
<strong>the</strong>m <strong>to</strong> know exactly what was going on each<br />
time <strong>the</strong>y ingested ano<strong>the</strong>r so-c<strong>all</strong>ed “Happy”<br />
Meal. Apparently I was not alone; Eric Schlosser<br />
followed up with a children’s version c<strong>all</strong>ed Chew<br />
On This: Everything You Don’t Want <strong>to</strong> Know About<br />
Fast <strong>Food</strong>.<br />
As a middle school social studies teacher I<br />
know firsthand that getting kids <strong>to</strong> think about<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> <strong>the</strong>y are eating, what’s in it, and where<br />
it comes from is no easy task—especi<strong>all</strong>y at this<br />
age. <strong>The</strong>y are beyond <strong>the</strong> point where having<br />
<strong>the</strong>m simply grow a few sprouts of anything<br />
in a sm<strong>all</strong> pot will re<strong>all</strong>y mean something <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>m, but <strong>the</strong>y are not quite at <strong>the</strong> intellectual<br />
level of high school students when it comes <strong>to</strong><br />
having a provocative discussion. Sometimes it<br />
takes potty humor <strong>to</strong> get middle schoolers <strong>to</strong><br />
pay attention, and you must always be energetic<br />
and entertaining, but with Chew On This, I could<br />
read one gripping passage after ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> my<br />
students—you could hear a pin drop—and I<br />
could follow <strong>the</strong>m up with good discussions on<br />
how it <strong>all</strong> related <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir lives and diets. It’s a<br />
magnificent <strong>to</strong>ol <strong>to</strong> capture my students’ interest<br />
and a great segue in<strong>to</strong> my annual <strong>food</strong> unit.<br />
Over a period of two <strong>to</strong> three weeks, my<br />
students read <strong>the</strong> latest articles on sustainable<br />
farming and answer critical thinking questions<br />
about what <strong>the</strong>y read. We talk about <strong>the</strong> types of<br />
things <strong>the</strong>y eat in a typical week. I bring in <strong>food</strong><br />
and <strong>the</strong>y try <strong>to</strong> guess where it was produced—<br />
mangoes from Mexico, walnuts from California,<br />
pasta from Italy, etc. We are pretty fortunate <strong>to</strong><br />
live in nor<strong>the</strong>ast Florida, where a long growing<br />
season and a tradition of agriculture <strong>all</strong>ow us <strong>to</strong><br />
produce many crops throughout <strong>the</strong> year, so I<br />
am sure <strong>to</strong> include local <strong>food</strong>s (such as pota<strong>to</strong>es,<br />
cabbage, and datil peppers) in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> mix. I drive<br />
home <strong>the</strong> point that <strong>the</strong> average American meal<br />
travels 1,500 miles from farm <strong>to</strong> table and that this<br />
distance has great ecological, economic, and social<br />
consequences. <strong>Slow</strong>ly but surely, <strong>the</strong> concept of<br />
eating loc<strong>all</strong>y and in accordance with <strong>the</strong> seasons<br />
begins <strong>to</strong> sink in. Though I may not make converts<br />
of <strong>the</strong>m <strong>all</strong>, by midway through <strong>the</strong> unit, most of<br />
<strong>the</strong>m are at least questioning <strong>the</strong>ir own diets and<br />
<strong>the</strong> relationship <strong>the</strong>y never knew <strong>the</strong>y had with<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir <strong>food</strong> and <strong>the</strong> people who produce it.<br />
We also talk about <strong>the</strong> problems of <strong>the</strong><br />
mainstream approach <strong>to</strong> <strong>food</strong> production, such as<br />
<strong>the</strong> alarming use of child slaves in African cacao<br />
plantations, and alternatives (fair trade chocolate,<br />
for example). This re<strong>all</strong>y gets <strong>the</strong> kids thinking.<br />
(“<strong>The</strong>y use child slaves <strong>to</strong> make my chocolate bar?<br />
What can we do about this?”)<br />
I try <strong>to</strong> make <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> unit personal. I show<br />
a pho<strong>to</strong>-presentation of <strong>the</strong> 15,000-mile road<br />
trip I <strong>to</strong>ok across <strong>the</strong> US last summer during<br />
which I documented endangered <strong>food</strong>s and <strong>food</strong><br />
traditions and <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ries of <strong>the</strong> individuals that<br />
are working <strong>to</strong> preserve <strong>the</strong>m. We analyze our<br />
We analyze our own<br />
school cafeteria menus<br />
and circle <strong>the</strong> items that<br />
were produced loc<strong>all</strong>y,<br />
in season, and that sound<br />
nutritious; <strong>the</strong>re aren’t <strong>to</strong>o<br />
many circles on <strong>the</strong> page<br />
when we are done<br />
own school cafeteria menus and circle <strong>the</strong> items<br />
that were produced in Florida, those that are in<br />
season, and <strong>the</strong> ones that sound nutritious. As<br />
you can imagine, <strong>the</strong>re aren’t <strong>to</strong>o many circles<br />
on <strong>the</strong> page when we are done with <strong>the</strong> exercise.<br />
<strong>The</strong> culminating assignment of <strong>the</strong> unit is for<br />
my students <strong>to</strong> write a five-paragraph persuasive<br />
letter <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> school cafeteria manager urging<br />
her <strong>to</strong> incorporate more local, seasonal, organic<br />
<strong>food</strong> in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> school menus. This conveniently<br />
happens <strong>to</strong> be a great way for my students <strong>to</strong> hone<br />
<strong>the</strong> critical thinking and writing skills that are<br />
measured in our state’s standardized tests.<br />
Fin<strong>all</strong>y, as a treat at <strong>the</strong> end, we watch <strong>the</strong><br />
education<strong>all</strong>y enhanced version of “Supersize Me”<br />
<strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r and I get <strong>to</strong> witness not only Morgan<br />
Spurlock’s incredible transformation, but that of<br />
my students from ignorant eaters <strong>to</strong> informed<br />
ones. And that’s what teaching is <strong>all</strong> about.<br />
Richard Villadóniga is a geography teacher in St. Johns County,<br />
Florida. He is <strong>the</strong> convivium leader of <strong>the</strong> recently founded First<br />
Coast convivium. Read about his Endangered <strong>Food</strong>s Tour at www.<br />
eat-american.com.<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />
9
Would You Like Some Justice with That?<br />
—By Candelario Vazquez<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />
10<br />
Students and farmworkers band<br />
<strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> fight fast <strong>food</strong> giants<br />
grew up on North Second Street,<br />
I between <strong>the</strong> park and Main Street,<br />
in Immokalee, Florida. Growing up,<br />
my bro<strong>the</strong>r and sister used <strong>to</strong> say<br />
that as <strong>the</strong> youngest child in my<br />
family, I was not as immersed in<br />
farm work as <strong>the</strong>y were. This didn’t<br />
mean, though, that I was sheltered<br />
from <strong>the</strong> injustices taking place in<br />
my community: backbreaking labor<br />
for wages that hadn’t risen in over 20<br />
years, no respect for human rights<br />
and dignity in <strong>the</strong> fields, and no right<br />
<strong>to</strong> organize in order <strong>to</strong> change <strong>the</strong>se<br />
conditions.<br />
This reality, along with <strong>the</strong><br />
knowledge of <strong>the</strong> many sacrifices<br />
my farmworker parents had made<br />
for me, was what led me <strong>to</strong> join <strong>the</strong><br />
Coalition of Immokalee Workers<br />
(CIW) in <strong>the</strong>ir struggle <strong>to</strong> change <strong>the</strong><br />
status quo of physical abuse and<br />
wage <strong>the</strong>ft in <strong>the</strong> Florida agriculture<br />
industry. During <strong>the</strong> winter of<br />
1995, my sister Lupita and I got up<br />
early on many mornings <strong>to</strong> join<br />
<strong>the</strong> farmworkers in <strong>the</strong>ir general strike. Though<br />
I was <strong>to</strong>o young <strong>to</strong> understand what it meant<br />
<strong>to</strong> hold signs and yell at <strong>the</strong> bosses in <strong>the</strong>ir big<br />
trucks, I knew it felt good. Later on in <strong>the</strong> day, my<br />
sister would often get sent home from school for<br />
refusing <strong>to</strong> take off her signs demanding better<br />
working conditions for farmworkers because some<br />
teachers deemed <strong>the</strong>m “offensive.” At <strong>the</strong> same<br />
time, my fa<strong>the</strong>r lay bedridden, sick from cancer<br />
caused by years of pesticide exposure.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> years that followed, <strong>the</strong> CIW expanded<br />
its focus from <strong>the</strong> Florida agricultural industry<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> fast <strong>food</strong> industry, which for decades has<br />
used its power and leverage <strong>to</strong> demand cheap<br />
produce, translating directly in<strong>to</strong> lower wages and<br />
poorer working conditions for <strong>the</strong> workers picking<br />
that produce. I spent my breaks from high school<br />
participating in <strong>to</strong>urs and marches across Florida,<br />
and during <strong>the</strong> course of those actions met with<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r students from my state who were also<br />
concerned with issues of human rights, dignity,<br />
and fairness for <strong>the</strong> workers putting <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />
<strong>The</strong> fast <strong>food</strong> industry<br />
for decades has used<br />
its power and leverage<br />
<strong>to</strong> demand cheap<br />
produce, translating<br />
directly in<strong>to</strong> lower<br />
wages and poorer<br />
working conditions for<br />
<strong>the</strong> workers picking<br />
that produce<br />
on <strong>the</strong> tables of this country. Out of <strong>the</strong>se initial<br />
meetings, a decentralized solidarity network of<br />
students and youth quickly spread from Florida <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> entire country, and <strong>the</strong> Student/Farmworker<br />
Alliance (SFA) was born.<br />
In 2001, <strong>the</strong> CIW launched a national boycott of<br />
Taco Bell, demanding that <strong>the</strong> company pay just<br />
one more penny per pound for <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es it<br />
purchased and work with <strong>the</strong> CIW <strong>to</strong> implement<br />
a code of conduct that would respect workers’<br />
human rights in <strong>the</strong> fields. During <strong>the</strong> boycott,<br />
<strong>the</strong> participation of students and youth was<br />
crucial, as young people sent a clear message<br />
of dissatisfaction <strong>to</strong> Taco Bell by successfully<br />
removing or preventing Taco Bell restaurants or<br />
sponsorships from 22 different high school and<br />
college campuses. <strong>The</strong> boycott came <strong>to</strong> an end<br />
in 2005 when Taco Bell agreed <strong>to</strong> <strong>all</strong> of <strong>the</strong> CIW’s<br />
demands, and a similar agreement was reached<br />
with McDonald’s and Taco Bell’s parent company,<br />
Yum Brands, in <strong>the</strong> spring of 2007.<br />
<strong>The</strong> agreements with Taco Bell, Yum Brands,
Candelario Vazquez grew<br />
up in a migrant farmworking<br />
family whose struggles<br />
led him <strong>to</strong> develop a great<br />
passion for social justice.<br />
He is an Immokalee<br />
native and a member of<br />
<strong>the</strong> Student/Farmworker<br />
Alliance.<br />
and McDonald’s have proven that <strong>the</strong>re is a real hope <strong>to</strong> fin<strong>all</strong>y<br />
modernize and improve conditions in US agriculture, but <strong>the</strong> CIW’s<br />
Campaign for Fair <strong>Food</strong> continues. While fast <strong>food</strong> corporations and<br />
grocery megachains report ever-increasing sales and pro<strong>fit</strong> margins,<br />
<strong>the</strong> farmworkers responsible for picking <strong>the</strong>ir fruits and vegetables<br />
receive piece rates that remain stagnant, now for nearly 30 years. In<br />
<strong>the</strong> most extreme cases, workers <strong>to</strong>il under conditions of modernday<br />
slavery. And o<strong>the</strong>r companies, such as Burger King, still stand in <strong>the</strong> way of continued<br />
progress. Even Whole <strong>Food</strong>s—a chain whose own philosophy proclaims unpar<strong>all</strong>eled support<br />
of sustainable agriculture and whose “Whole Trade Guarantee” pledges <strong>to</strong> ensure, among o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
things, “better wages and working conditions for workers,”—has refused <strong>to</strong> work with <strong>the</strong> CIW.<br />
This doesn’t worry me, however. <strong>Slow</strong>ly but surely, <strong>the</strong> consciousness that began <strong>to</strong> rise in<br />
Immokalee in <strong>the</strong> nearly ‘90s will continue <strong>to</strong> grow, and students and youth will continue <strong>to</strong> be<br />
a powerful voice in this movement. I invite young people <strong>to</strong> learn more about my community,<br />
our struggle, and how our actions can lead <strong>to</strong> a better world.<br />
Cultivating Co-producers<br />
— By Ed Yowell<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> NYC’s educational series<br />
OK, it doesn’t re<strong>all</strong>y mean “<strong>Slow</strong> University,” it means <strong>Slow</strong> YOU. SLOW U is an ongoing<br />
series of convivial, educational seminars aimed at helping each of us become a<br />
responsible eater, contributing <strong>to</strong>, and savoring, <strong>the</strong> good, clean, and fair <strong>food</strong> chain that <strong>Slow</strong><br />
<strong>Food</strong> supports. It’s been said that we can vote for a sustainable <strong>food</strong> system with every <strong>food</strong><br />
dollar we spend. SLOW U strives <strong>to</strong> make us more educated voters.<br />
Every month or two, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> NYC sponsors a two-hour seminar featuring <strong>food</strong> providers,<br />
scholars, writers, activists, and <strong>the</strong> like, who speak about <strong>to</strong>pics germane <strong>to</strong> a slow <strong>food</strong> chain.<br />
For instance, we have had authors Sherri Brooks Vin<strong>to</strong>n and Lorna Sass talk respectively about<br />
<strong>the</strong> everyday ch<strong>all</strong>enges of sustainable eating and <strong>the</strong> environmental and health bene<strong>fit</strong>s of<br />
eating more whole grains (and less meat). <strong>Food</strong> activist Fern Gale Estrow talked about <strong>the</strong><br />
politics and impact of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Food</strong> and Farm Bill. Seminars include question and answer periods<br />
and, of course, slow <strong>food</strong> and drink.<br />
Most recently, Vancouverites James MacKinnon and Alisa Smith, authors of Plenty<br />
(published in <strong>the</strong>ir native Canada as <strong>The</strong> Hundred Mile Diet), delivered an entertaining and<br />
informative account of <strong>the</strong>ir year-long adventure eating and drinking only what was grown,<br />
raised, hunted, or foraged within 100 miles of <strong>the</strong>ir Vancouver home. An intense but amiable<br />
discussion followed <strong>the</strong>ir talk, with folks lined up for and against various aspects of <strong>the</strong><br />
concept. (Is it better <strong>to</strong> drink local wine produced from grapes grown convention<strong>all</strong>y or organic<br />
wines flown in from Chile? During <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>ast winter, is it better <strong>to</strong> eat local greens grown<br />
in an upstate greenhouse and trucked <strong>to</strong> New York City or greens flown in from <strong>the</strong> sunny<br />
southwest or no greens at <strong>all</strong>?) While nothing was settled, we enjoyed local hard cider, local<br />
farmstead cheese, and bread and lavash, baked loc<strong>all</strong>y using loc<strong>all</strong>y milled flour from loc<strong>all</strong>y<br />
grown wheat, <strong>all</strong> points of origin having been Googled diligently beforehand.<br />
With ticket prices low, SLOW U seminars are gener<strong>all</strong>y sold out, at about 30 <strong>to</strong> 40 seats. Our<br />
venues are inexpensive or donated. Speakers most often donate <strong>the</strong>ir time. <strong>Food</strong> and drink are<br />
not <strong>the</strong> primary purpose, so servings are of tasting size.<br />
Topics and speakers are not so hard <strong>to</strong> find. Many <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> members are also members<br />
of local <strong>food</strong> networks, being <strong>food</strong> providers, scholars, writers, or activists, or <strong>the</strong>y know <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
Gener<strong>all</strong>y, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> members account for half of SLOW U participation, with non-members<br />
constituting <strong>the</strong> balance. Thus, SLOW U is a way <strong>to</strong> meet and influence new friends.<br />
Future SLOW U seminars include: Pastured Meats: Good for <strong>the</strong> planet, <strong>the</strong> animals, and<br />
<strong>the</strong> eaters; <strong>The</strong> Urban Chicken: Laying hens in city community gardens; and <strong>Food</strong> and Faith:<br />
Religion and a good, clean, and fair <strong>food</strong> chain.<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />
11
Fishing Classes for Everyone<br />
— By David Szan<strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />
12<br />
UNISG and viral education<br />
It’s widely agreed that education is a good<br />
thing, particularly in <strong>the</strong> world of <strong>food</strong>, and<br />
that it leads <strong>to</strong> empowerment and positive<br />
change through greater understanding. But<br />
what is education, exactly? Is it putting stuff in<br />
your brain, or realizing behaviors that that stuff<br />
engenders? Is it form<strong>all</strong>y defined, classroom-style<br />
teaching, or an ongoing and multidirectional<br />
social process?<br />
<strong>The</strong> University of Gastronomic Sciences<br />
(UNISG, co-founded by <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> in 2003) has<br />
developed a model that seems <strong>to</strong> make education<br />
very much part of an ongoing cycle. And judging<br />
from <strong>the</strong> roles alumni have started <strong>to</strong> adopt,<br />
it is about both brain stuff and behavior. North<br />
American graduates are increasingly trickling<br />
forth and becoming educa<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>the</strong>mselves—as<br />
writers, teachers, consultants, even salespeople.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y pass <strong>the</strong>ir learning on and inspire o<strong>the</strong>rs <strong>to</strong><br />
do <strong>the</strong> same, creating what might best be c<strong>all</strong>ed<br />
“viral education.” Just as contemporary marketers<br />
realize, virality can create geometric growth,<br />
which applies just as well <strong>to</strong> making change in<br />
Graduates are trickling forth and becoming<br />
educa<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>the</strong>mselves—as writers, teachers,<br />
consultants, and even salespeople<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> system as it does <strong>to</strong> making consumers<br />
open <strong>the</strong>ir w<strong>all</strong>ets. If, as <strong>the</strong> adage goes, teaching<br />
people <strong>to</strong> fish <strong>all</strong>ows <strong>the</strong>m <strong>to</strong> eat for a lifetime,<br />
imagine what teaching people <strong>to</strong> teach people <strong>to</strong><br />
fish can do.<br />
In Italian, <strong>the</strong> word maleduca<strong>to</strong> means not<br />
“uneducated,” but “rude” or “ill-mannered” (not<br />
unlike <strong>the</strong> colloquial meaning of “ignorant” in<br />
English). <strong>The</strong> notion that not knowing can lead<br />
<strong>to</strong> not behaving acceptably becomes particularly<br />
intriguing in <strong>food</strong> culture: We don’t know<br />
where our <strong>food</strong> comes from, so we make poor<br />
consumption choices. We don’t remember our<br />
<strong>food</strong> heritage, so we let industrial producers<br />
fill our minds with manufactured meaning. We<br />
don’t understand <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> chain, so we opt for<br />
sm<strong>all</strong>er price tags and slough off hidden costs <strong>to</strong><br />
producers, <strong>the</strong> environment, and minimum<br />
wage earners.<br />
<strong>The</strong> UNISG learning experience creates a<br />
kind of paradigm shift about <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> system<br />
as a whole. By studying anthropology and<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry at <strong>the</strong> same time as packaging design<br />
and biochemistry and <strong>the</strong>n going in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
field for hands-on study, future gastronomes<br />
become hard-wired for complexity. <strong>Food</strong> is no<br />
longer simple <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>m, which creates a need <strong>to</strong><br />
communicate that message.<br />
Daniel Winans, a graduate of <strong>the</strong> master<br />
program in <strong>food</strong> culture and communications,<br />
is now at <strong>the</strong> University of New Hampshire,<br />
lecturing on International <strong>Food</strong> and Culture and<br />
helping <strong>to</strong> develop <strong>the</strong>ir new Eco-Gastronomy<br />
joint major. O<strong>the</strong>r master alums, Canadian<br />
Don Genova and Italian Carlo Baggi, have<br />
been hired <strong>to</strong> teach courses in <strong>food</strong> culture<br />
and gastronomy—Don at British Columbia’s<br />
University of Vic<strong>to</strong>ria and Carlo in <strong>the</strong> culinary<br />
program at Chattahoochee Technical College in<br />
Marietta, Georgia.<br />
But viral education isn’t just happening in<br />
academic settings. At Murray’s Cheese in New<br />
York, Taylor Cocalis runs a program that trains<br />
thousands of consumers a year on <strong>the</strong> sensory<br />
qualities of cheeses, olive<br />
oils, honey, and beer (among<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r products). Along <strong>the</strong><br />
way, instruc<strong>to</strong>rs slide in a<br />
little geography here, a little<br />
<strong>food</strong> politics <strong>the</strong>re. Across <strong>the</strong> Atlantic, in Wales,<br />
former farmer Tom Bean teaches local <strong>food</strong><br />
traditions through <strong>the</strong>ater programs with <strong>the</strong><br />
Sm<strong>all</strong> World <strong>The</strong>atre company, and in Italy’s<br />
Le Marche region, U.S. expat Dwight Stanford<br />
owns and operates an agriturismo where he<br />
teaches guests about local wine varietals and<br />
pecorino cheeses.<br />
Clearly it’s not only a <strong>food</strong> studies school in Italy<br />
that can inspire learners <strong>to</strong> teach, nor are <strong>the</strong>se<br />
alumni <strong>the</strong> only six <strong>to</strong> be inspired. Everyone with<br />
a passion for sharing what <strong>the</strong>y know and what<br />
<strong>the</strong>y do is part of <strong>the</strong> trend—whe<strong>the</strong>r on listservs,<br />
in classrooms, or across a <strong>food</strong> shop counter. So<br />
although “viral education” may not be <strong>the</strong> loveliest<br />
expression, if you consider <strong>the</strong> potential impact,<br />
it paints a pretty nifty picture. Rec<strong>all</strong> <strong>the</strong> classic<br />
Fabergé Organics shampoo commercials (“and<br />
she <strong>to</strong>ld two friends, and so on, and so on…”), and<br />
that’s an awful lot of heads filled up with more<br />
than just wheat-germ oil and honey.
Sustainable U.<br />
Higher ed heads for a future of better <strong>food</strong><br />
It takes a long time <strong>to</strong> turn a big ship, but in <strong>the</strong><br />
sea of land grant institutions <strong>the</strong> University of<br />
Kentucky College of Agriculture is steering with an<br />
ever-quickening pace <strong>to</strong>wards sustainability.<br />
Back in 1995 a group of UK professors and private<br />
citizens, including Wendell Berry, formed Partners for<br />
Family Farms <strong>to</strong> support sm<strong>all</strong> diversified farms. Sail<br />
ahead <strong>to</strong> 2006 when Agriculture Dean Scott Smith<br />
and Associate Dean of Research Nancy Cox decided <strong>to</strong><br />
send three representatives <strong>to</strong> Terra Madre: academics<br />
Mark Williams, associate professor of horticulture,<br />
and Bonnie Tanner, retired<br />
college administra<strong>to</strong>r, both<br />
presented research papers<br />
at <strong>the</strong> event; I attended as a<br />
representative of <strong>the</strong> college’s<br />
newly created <strong>Food</strong> Systems<br />
Initiative. <strong>The</strong> three of us are<br />
charter members of <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />
Bluegrass and passionately<br />
committed <strong>to</strong> local <strong>food</strong>.<br />
Williams championed <strong>the</strong><br />
establishment of a degree<br />
program in Sustainable<br />
Agriculture and established<br />
a 12-acre certified organic<br />
research plot at UK’s<br />
Horticulture Research Farm<br />
near <strong>the</strong> Lexing<strong>to</strong>n campus.<br />
<strong>The</strong> curriculum includes<br />
scientific and philosophical<br />
Od tion hendigna feuguero dolorpero etuer<br />
sustrud doluptat wis acilit lum dolenisi<br />
components of sustainable<br />
agriculture as well as handson<br />
work growing organic vegetables for an on-campus<br />
CSA. In 2007 <strong>the</strong> students conducted research and<br />
harvested more than 230 varieties of produce, fruit,<br />
herbs and flowers and experienced <strong>all</strong> aspects of<br />
operating a CSA.<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Systems Initiative was established <strong>to</strong><br />
serve as a single point of entry <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> College of<br />
Agriculture. Through its gateway, producers can tap<br />
in<strong>to</strong> a wealth of knowledge from <strong>the</strong> college’s faculty,<br />
researchers, and specialists <strong>to</strong> support local <strong>food</strong><br />
production, systems, and value-added products. It<br />
also serves as a network hub between <strong>the</strong> college<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Kentucky Department of Agriculture, <strong>the</strong><br />
Kentucky Agricultural Development Board, o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
colleges and universities, and nongovernmental<br />
sustainable agriculture groups and advocates.<br />
— By Bob Perry<br />
On campus, several College of Agriculture faculty<br />
members designed a pilot program that connected<br />
UK <strong>Food</strong> Service with a local vegetable producer and<br />
orchard <strong>to</strong> bring more loc<strong>all</strong>y grown <strong>food</strong> in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
system. One result of this is <strong>the</strong> new <strong>all</strong>-local KY<br />
Proud menu option UK <strong>Food</strong> Service offers through<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir catering division. Perry also teaches <strong>the</strong> Quantity<br />
<strong>Food</strong> Production lab for Nutrition, Dietetics and<br />
Hospitality majors. His students operate <strong>the</strong> Lemon<br />
Tree Café and he has begun <strong>to</strong> incorporate local <strong>food</strong><br />
in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> meals and its importance in<strong>to</strong> his lectures.<br />
Williams, Tanner, and Perry have also collaborated<br />
on several events with Bluegrass convivium leader<br />
Mark Williams, <strong>the</strong> Brown-Forman chef from<br />
Louisville who shares his name and his passion<br />
for sustainability with Professor Mark. Just before<br />
Terra Madre 2006 <strong>the</strong>y held “Chefs Afield” on <strong>the</strong> UK<br />
Horticulture Research Farm where local <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />
chefs prepared a meal for over 100 invited guests<br />
using produce harvested minutes before preparation.<br />
In March 2007 UK sponsored “Growing Kentucky,”<br />
a two-day conference focused on local, sustainable<br />
<strong>food</strong>. Speakers included Wendell Berry, Marion Nestle,<br />
and <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA Executive Direc<strong>to</strong>r Erika Lesser.<br />
As Kentucky’s flagship university sails in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
future, <strong>the</strong> crew from <strong>the</strong> College of Agriculture<br />
committed <strong>to</strong> good, clean, and fair <strong>food</strong> knows it<br />
will take more than just <strong>the</strong>m <strong>to</strong> support a local<br />
sustainable <strong>food</strong> system. <strong>The</strong>y are charting a course<br />
<strong>to</strong> establish a UK student convivium that will involve<br />
young people campuswide from <strong>all</strong> academic<br />
disciplines. After <strong>all</strong>, <strong>the</strong> students are what a<br />
university is ultimately about and empowering <strong>the</strong>m<br />
with <strong>the</strong> knowledge <strong>to</strong>, in Wendell Berry’s words, “eat<br />
responsibly” is an important life lesson.<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />
13
Cooking Outside <strong>the</strong> Classroom<br />
—By Alisa Gaylon<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />
14<br />
As <strong>the</strong> days become<br />
longer and<br />
temperatures increase,<br />
<strong>the</strong> first signs of green<br />
will start <strong>to</strong> dot <strong>the</strong><br />
landscape and push<br />
through <strong>the</strong> ground, and<br />
students will ask, “Can<br />
we please have class<br />
outside <strong>to</strong>day?” Fortunately, for those of us teaching<br />
hospitality and culinary arts, field trips <strong>to</strong> local area<br />
farmers’ markets are an excellent way <strong>to</strong> fulfill students’<br />
requests. This type of outdoor trip can easily be<br />
adapted <strong>to</strong> <strong>fit</strong> in<strong>to</strong> a variety of hospitality and culinary<br />
arts classes, enhance any curriculum’s educational<br />
objectives, and provide a unique way <strong>to</strong> expose students<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> philosophy.<br />
In an introduc<strong>to</strong>ry college prepara<strong>to</strong>ry course<br />
students are ch<strong>all</strong>enged <strong>to</strong> learn about <strong>the</strong>ir local<br />
community and discover cost-effective resources for<br />
college students. <strong>The</strong>se students are encouraged <strong>to</strong><br />
invite <strong>the</strong>ir families as a way <strong>to</strong> build a connection<br />
between <strong>the</strong>ir family meal and <strong>the</strong> family of local<br />
farmers that provides <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong>. Many markets also<br />
feature local chef demonstrations, which are not only<br />
educational, but provide a great opportunity for students<br />
<strong>to</strong> start networking with local<br />
businesses and chefs.<br />
Students in a <strong>food</strong>service<br />
purchasing and cost control<br />
class are assigned <strong>the</strong> task<br />
of comparing ingredient<br />
costs for a recipe between those found at local farmers’<br />
markets and those at large retail grocery chains. <strong>The</strong>y<br />
are also asked <strong>to</strong> consider <strong>the</strong> ecological impact based<br />
on how far <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>food</strong> travels and <strong>the</strong> economic bene<strong>fit</strong><br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> farmer as well as <strong>the</strong> relative quality and shelf<br />
life of <strong>the</strong> produce. Students are forced <strong>to</strong> practice<br />
critical thinking skills when evaluating <strong>the</strong>se costs, and<br />
those that have never purchased produce from farmers’<br />
markets are frequently surprised at <strong>the</strong> relative low<br />
cost and high quality. Most importantly, students gain<br />
insight in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> value of <strong>the</strong>ir purchasing dollars, both<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> farmer and <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> consumer.<br />
While studying menu planning and design, a field<br />
trip <strong>to</strong> a local farmers’ market provides an opportunity<br />
<strong>to</strong> develop local, seasonal menus. A frequent<br />
assignment is a three- or four-course meal using<br />
ingredients found exclusively at <strong>the</strong> farmers’ market.<br />
Culinary students at <strong>the</strong> farmers’ market<br />
<strong>The</strong> lessons <strong>to</strong> be learned<br />
at <strong>the</strong> market are as varied<br />
as <strong>the</strong> produce itself<br />
Students are encouraged <strong>to</strong> be unique and creative<br />
and <strong>the</strong>ir menu assignments must include proper<br />
descriptions and selling prices. In an effort <strong>to</strong> outdo one<br />
ano<strong>the</strong>r, many gravitate <strong>to</strong>ward unusual varieties of<br />
produce or ingredients that <strong>the</strong>y have little experience<br />
in preparing and quickly learn that it is usu<strong>all</strong>y <strong>the</strong><br />
farmer who has <strong>the</strong> best advice on ingredients and<br />
preparations. O<strong>the</strong>r students spend time observing<br />
what members of <strong>the</strong> community are purchasing <strong>to</strong><br />
gauge local tastes and trends in designing <strong>the</strong>ir menus.<br />
Students get a chance <strong>to</strong> network with local chefs who<br />
purchase directly from <strong>the</strong> farmers. It is a fun extra<br />
credit assignment <strong>to</strong> <strong>all</strong>ow students <strong>to</strong> create a dish or<br />
two from <strong>the</strong>ir respective menu.<br />
Even <strong>the</strong> lecture portion of culinary arts classes<br />
can be enhanced with local farmers’ markets. What<br />
better way <strong>to</strong> lecture on fruits, vegetables, herbs, and<br />
cheeses than by standing right next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>m? Students<br />
can practice product identification with a great<br />
variety of products and ask questions directly of local<br />
producers. In <strong>the</strong> more advanced classes, as questions<br />
turn <strong>to</strong>wards issues of organics, sustainability, and <strong>the</strong><br />
environmental impact of our <strong>food</strong> supply, students can<br />
gain a first hand appreciation of <strong>the</strong> concept of “farm<strong>to</strong>-plate”<br />
and <strong>the</strong> intrinsic value of purchasing directly<br />
from farmers.<br />
An entire day could<br />
be devoted <strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong>,<br />
with both a field trip <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
market followed by time<br />
spent <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r cooking and<br />
eating a class meal. Extra<br />
credit options may include volunteering <strong>to</strong> help at<br />
booths or making side trips <strong>to</strong> local farms. Local farms<br />
never turn down free labor when it comes <strong>to</strong> pulling<br />
weeds, pruning, and harvesting. Hands-on experience<br />
will help students retain information as well.<br />
A field trip <strong>to</strong> a farmers’ market paves <strong>the</strong> way for<br />
students <strong>to</strong> begin <strong>to</strong> understand <strong>the</strong> bene<strong>fit</strong>s of good,<br />
clean, and fair. One creative project or assignment<br />
is <strong>all</strong> it takes for students <strong>to</strong> begin examining <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
environment, <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong>s <strong>the</strong>y eat and <strong>the</strong>ir origins.<br />
Hopefully, as this generation of new culinary graduates<br />
assumes its place in <strong>the</strong> kitchens and dining rooms of<br />
<strong>the</strong> world, that one field trip will continue <strong>to</strong> influence<br />
and inspire.<br />
Alisa Gaylon is Chef Instruc<strong>to</strong>r at Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago<br />
(CHIC), where she will soon be helping <strong>to</strong> launch a school convivium. She<br />
also teaches Hospitality Law at <strong>the</strong> Art Institute of Pittsburgh.
STORYTELLING<br />
<strong>Education</strong> at <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation<br />
— By Anya Fernald<br />
How does an event communicate and translate <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong>’s vast, wide-ranging values<br />
in<strong>to</strong> experiences? To address this ch<strong>all</strong>enge, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation team has defined<br />
“experiential values,” or <strong>the</strong> values that will shape individual experiences at <strong>the</strong> event:<br />
accessible, educational, and enjoyable. Experiences will be easy <strong>to</strong> comprehend and nonexclusionary,<br />
will teach <strong>the</strong> participant something, and will be enjoyable for <strong>the</strong> palate<br />
and mind.<br />
<strong>The</strong> educational aspect is perhaps <strong>the</strong> most ch<strong>all</strong>enging and important of <strong>the</strong><br />
experiential values at <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation. Getting people through <strong>the</strong> door <strong>to</strong> eat and<br />
drink is <strong>the</strong> easy part of an event; <strong>the</strong> hard part is making that individual interaction<br />
meaningful, and, in turn, having it lead <strong>to</strong> change in how a person perceives <strong>food</strong><br />
and agriculture and how <strong>the</strong>y use <strong>the</strong>ir own purchasing and political power for good,<br />
clean, and fair ends. In addition <strong>to</strong> being transformative, <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>ne of <strong>the</strong> educational<br />
components of <strong>the</strong> event space must be warm, and <strong>the</strong> language used <strong>to</strong> contextualize<br />
<strong>the</strong> event cannot feel preachy or patronizing—we want <strong>all</strong> <strong>the</strong> event elements <strong>to</strong> speak<br />
as a peer and friend <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> audience. Ide<strong>all</strong>y, <strong>the</strong> educational aspect of <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation<br />
will serve as an approachable and friendly guide that not only shares insights in<strong>to</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />
and <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ries behind it, but also<br />
sits back and lets each person enjoy<br />
Olobore duis nim num dolor<br />
irit, commod tem verit<br />
dolore molore minci duis<br />
nim num dolor irit,<br />
his or her own personal experience.<br />
In order <strong>to</strong> walk <strong>the</strong> line between<br />
high-minded values and open and<br />
engaging language and feel, <strong>Slow</strong><br />
<strong>Food</strong> Nation will focus on s<strong>to</strong>rytelling<br />
as a primary educational <strong>to</strong>ol at <strong>the</strong><br />
event. <strong>The</strong>re will be s<strong>to</strong>ries of seedsaving,<br />
of indigenous traditions, of a family recipe that became a regional specialty, or of a<br />
microclimate that shapes <strong>the</strong> production of a particular crop.<br />
<strong>The</strong>se educational components will be presented within different physical spaces at <strong>the</strong><br />
event. <strong>The</strong> Vic<strong>to</strong>ry Garden—a vegetable farm at <strong>the</strong> heart of <strong>the</strong> city and <strong>the</strong> centerpiece of<br />
<strong>the</strong> event—will tell a s<strong>to</strong>ry through signage, docents, and products about <strong>the</strong> need <strong>to</strong> build<br />
urban <strong>food</strong> security and will provide information about <strong>the</strong> Bay Area’s urban farms. <strong>The</strong><br />
Cheese pavilion in <strong>the</strong> Fort Mason Taste h<strong>all</strong>s will describe <strong>the</strong> microflora, biodiversity, and<br />
cheesemaking traditions brought <strong>to</strong> California by Portuguese and Italian immigrants. <strong>The</strong><br />
Explore area at Fort Mason will explain how corn and sorghum are grown, processed, and<br />
cooked, and <strong>the</strong> role <strong>the</strong>ir cultivation has played in <strong>the</strong> development of <strong>the</strong> Americas.<br />
In addition <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> educational experiences throughout <strong>the</strong> event, <strong>the</strong>re will be specific<br />
educational opportunities within <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation. At <strong>the</strong> Civic Center Plaza, school trips<br />
will be welcomed with specific curriculum <strong>to</strong> guide students’ participation in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />
Nation Vic<strong>to</strong>ry Garden, Marketplace, and <strong>Slow</strong> on <strong>the</strong> Go <strong>food</strong> stands. After <strong>the</strong> non-pro<strong>fit</strong><br />
leadership meeting—Changemakers Day—on <strong>the</strong> first day of <strong>the</strong> event, <strong>the</strong> role of education<br />
in building a new <strong>food</strong> system will be <strong>the</strong> focus of a forum for <strong>the</strong> general public. <strong>The</strong> forum<br />
will feature best practices of successful educational programs around <strong>the</strong> country and a c<strong>all</strong> <strong>to</strong><br />
action for educa<strong>to</strong>rs and educational policy makers <strong>to</strong> lead change in our educational system.<br />
Through its educational experiences, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation aims <strong>to</strong> be a platform for <strong>the</strong><br />
wider <strong>food</strong> movement, one that serves as a catalytic moment<br />
Anya Fernald is <strong>the</strong> Executive<br />
Direc<strong>to</strong>r of <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Nation. for consumer engagement in <strong>food</strong>, health, and agriculture, one<br />
To learn more and <strong>to</strong> find out that will lay <strong>the</strong> foundation for building consumer support <strong>to</strong><br />
how <strong>to</strong> get involved, please<br />
visit www.slow<strong>food</strong>nation.org. change <strong>the</strong> American <strong>food</strong> system.<br />
15<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008
A co-producer is a consumer who knows and understands<br />
problems of <strong>food</strong> production: quality, economics, and<br />
processing requirements, <strong>the</strong> culinary aspect. It’s not just<br />
someone who consumes. It’s that <strong>the</strong>y want <strong>to</strong> know.<br />
Producer<br />
— Carlo Petrini<br />
Driving Change in <strong>the</strong> Dining H<strong>all</strong><br />
— By Severine von Tscharner Fleming<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />
16<br />
Better <strong>food</strong> for bettering young minds—and much more<br />
As a student-farmer and discerning campus eater,<br />
I’ve long lobbied for sustainable institutional<br />
purchasing. And that’s how, one day, I found myself on<br />
a golf cart in sou<strong>the</strong>rn California. My friends and I were<br />
picking up <strong>the</strong> big blue bins of <strong>food</strong> waste <strong>the</strong> dining<br />
h<strong>all</strong>s had saved for us. It was <strong>the</strong> Campus Composting<br />
Program that we’d proposed, that <strong>the</strong> student senate<br />
had funded, and that we now found ourselves<br />
beneficiaries of. <strong>The</strong> compost we made from <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />
scraps went directly <strong>to</strong> our student-run organic farm,<br />
where it rose up in steaming piles each morning<br />
under <strong>the</strong> oak trees, giving our farm a properly banked<br />
buffer on <strong>all</strong> sides. <strong>The</strong> piles said, “Attention visi<strong>to</strong>rs:<br />
Agriculture practiced here!” Except for <strong>the</strong> stinky swill<br />
of cantaloupe rinds gone sour and some slight worries<br />
about <strong>the</strong> flaky white fungicide on <strong>the</strong> pineapple<br />
peelings, we relished <strong>the</strong> whole business.<br />
<strong>The</strong> day of our great triumph came when we<br />
delivered about 100 pounds of Tahitian squashes <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> kitchen at Pomona College. <strong>The</strong>re was great delight<br />
among <strong>the</strong> dining staff as we did a glory-lap around<br />
<strong>the</strong> kitchen with our four-foot-long mutants (<strong>the</strong><br />
squashes, usu<strong>all</strong>y drum shaped, had managed <strong>to</strong> cross<br />
with some o<strong>the</strong>r cucurbits and were like an ogre’s<br />
boomerangs, magnificently striped dun on <strong>the</strong> outside,<br />
bright pumpkin orange on <strong>the</strong> inside).<br />
Institutional purchasing is an incredibly powerful<br />
instrument for changing <strong>the</strong> local economic framework<br />
for sustainably produced paper, lumber, <strong>food</strong>, and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r needed resources. When a college decides its<br />
purchasing based on certain environmental metrics<br />
(non-<strong>to</strong>xic cleaning supplies, loc<strong>all</strong>y harvested<br />
lumber, family farmed <strong>food</strong>s, fair trade coffee) <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are able <strong>to</strong> leverage substantial clout among <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
various contrac<strong>to</strong>rs, suppliers, and local businesses.<br />
Even a sm<strong>all</strong> college can decide <strong>to</strong> sell only fair trade<br />
T-shirts, ensuring business <strong>to</strong> a responsible textile<br />
manufacturer, as well as setting a good example for its<br />
students.<br />
When it comes <strong>to</strong> <strong>food</strong>, <strong>the</strong> bene<strong>fit</strong>s of an<br />
institutional commitment <strong>to</strong> a particular set of farmers<br />
is even more compelling. Imagine, as a farmer, not<br />
having <strong>to</strong> race out <strong>to</strong> market every week or deal<br />
with <strong>the</strong> overblown egos of urban chefs, but instead<br />
producing, under contract, a diversity of vegetables,<br />
herbs, and salads for <strong>the</strong> college ten miles away. You<br />
deliver two times per week, you get your check right<br />
away—what a revelation! <strong>The</strong> students get fresh<br />
produce, <strong>the</strong> school maintains its local greenspace<br />
and agricultural economy. Meanwhile, in <strong>the</strong> kitchen,<br />
a whole new way of cooking brings <strong>the</strong>se fabulous,<br />
healthy, local ingredients in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> waiting bellies of<br />
harried students.<br />
Who should drive this change in our dining h<strong>all</strong>s?<br />
Is it <strong>the</strong> students—who may never have been <strong>to</strong> a<br />
farmers’ market in <strong>the</strong>ir lives? Is it up <strong>to</strong> local farming<br />
groups, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> parents, and activists <strong>to</strong> raise <strong>the</strong><br />
standards of taste education? Is it <strong>the</strong> role of visionary<br />
college leaders <strong>to</strong> set major goals for sustainability<br />
and freshness and see <strong>to</strong> it that <strong>the</strong> produce comes<br />
from sm<strong>all</strong>er farms and not just conventional organic<br />
agriculture?<br />
<strong>The</strong>re will be some freshman who prefer <strong>to</strong> stick<br />
with <strong>the</strong>ir diet of ketchup and onion rings, but chances<br />
are <strong>the</strong>re will be a few who crave those greens one<br />
morning if <strong>the</strong>y are offered consistently. And we must<br />
make it available <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>m! We must ch<strong>all</strong>enge school<br />
leaders <strong>to</strong> boldly go where students cannot and make<br />
<strong>the</strong> commitment <strong>to</strong> nutrition, fresh produce, organic<br />
milk, local farmers, and quality <strong>food</strong>. Not just “organic”<br />
baby salad mix from some distant megafarm, but<br />
quality, lovingly grown <strong>food</strong> that might well require <strong>the</strong><br />
retraining of kitchen staff, overhauling of purchasing<br />
agreements, and certainly some patience. As we surely<br />
know by now, its worth <strong>the</strong> extra effort.<br />
Activist, filmmaker, and farmer Severine von Tscharner Fleming is <strong>the</strong><br />
founder of <strong>the</strong> Society for Agriculture and <strong>Food</strong> Ecology (www.agrariana.<br />
org) and direc<strong>to</strong>r of <strong>the</strong> Greenhorns.
CO-Producer<br />
<strong>The</strong> Incredible, Edible, Unattainable Egg<br />
— By Gary Giberson<br />
How <strong>to</strong> get a loc<strong>all</strong>y sourced school lunch<br />
In 2004 my life as a chef and <strong>food</strong> service<br />
direc<strong>to</strong>r changed in unimaginable ways. At <strong>the</strong><br />
start of <strong>the</strong> twenty-first century in an industrial<br />
<strong>food</strong> world, procuring <strong>food</strong> for contract feeding<br />
is done with <strong>the</strong> click of a mouse. For a chef,<br />
operating a computer is akin <strong>to</strong> having classical<br />
knife skills. I had been through countless inservice<br />
computer training courses designed <strong>to</strong><br />
better prepare <strong>the</strong> user with <strong>the</strong> newest and most<br />
efficient web-based purchasing system. None of<br />
this, however, prepared me for what would be<br />
my greatest ch<strong>all</strong>enge: locating, obtaining, and<br />
purchasing eggs that were organic, local, and free<br />
range.<br />
That year, <strong>the</strong> Lawrenceville School, where I<br />
am <strong>the</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Service Direc<strong>to</strong>r, began what would<br />
prove <strong>to</strong> be a long and rewarding journey. We <strong>to</strong>ok<br />
<strong>The</strong> eggs that I was able <strong>to</strong><br />
purchase through <strong>the</strong> existing<br />
system were known in <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />
service contract business as<br />
“liquid eggs”: picture boxed<br />
wine, and now imagine <strong>the</strong> box<br />
filled with ultra-pasteurized,<br />
homogenized, caged, medicated,<br />
enriched, whipped egg product<br />
on <strong>the</strong> daunting ch<strong>all</strong>enge of becoming a green<br />
and sustainable campus. My first ch<strong>all</strong>enge was<br />
<strong>to</strong> convince <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> service contract company<br />
I was employed by <strong>to</strong> purchase from local and<br />
sustainable farms. This purchasing request was<br />
unheard of in <strong>the</strong> current school contract feeding<br />
environment. To understand this, however, I must<br />
first describe how <strong>food</strong> arrived at my kitchen.<br />
Menus and recipes were developed by corporate<br />
chefs <strong>the</strong>n approved by corporate dietitians<br />
who <strong>the</strong>n would submit <strong>the</strong> ingredient list for<br />
<strong>the</strong> menus <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> corporate purchasing division,<br />
where <strong>the</strong> real decisions of purchasing are made.<br />
Once <strong>the</strong> items were identified and specifications<br />
determined, <strong>the</strong>y were put out for bid <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> large<br />
industrial <strong>food</strong> manufacturers <strong>to</strong> determine price,<br />
availability, and most importantly, large-volume<br />
purchase incentives and rebates. When this<br />
process was completed and <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> bids awarded<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> manufacturers, <strong>the</strong> corporate-approved<br />
ingredients were <strong>the</strong>n s<strong>to</strong>cked by <strong>the</strong> approved<br />
national contracted <strong>food</strong> distribu<strong>to</strong>r. At my school,<br />
<strong>the</strong> approved menu items list was downloaded<br />
<strong>to</strong> my purchasing system, which restricted me<br />
in selecting only <strong>the</strong> items that appeared on <strong>the</strong><br />
approved list <strong>to</strong> be delivered by approved vendors.<br />
From my computer I would enter my purchasing<br />
needs and electronic<strong>all</strong>y send my order <strong>to</strong> a<br />
password-protected website two days before my<br />
scheduled delivery date. <strong>The</strong>se systems controlled<br />
my ability <strong>to</strong> know who was producing <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />
and where it was coming from. This complexity<br />
can be rationalized when considering that<br />
because most school <strong>food</strong> budgets are limited,<br />
companies are forced <strong>to</strong> specialize in feeding<br />
students cheaply and efficiently while aiming for<br />
<strong>the</strong> greatest pro<strong>fit</strong>. But let’s get back <strong>to</strong> that egg.<br />
<strong>The</strong> eggs that I was able <strong>to</strong> purchase through<br />
this system were known in <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> service<br />
contract business as “liquid eggs.” <strong>The</strong> product<br />
comes delivered in large, 20-pound plastic<br />
dispenser bags packaged in cardboard with a<br />
pouring spout. Envision boxed wine, and now<br />
imagine <strong>the</strong> box filled with ultra-pasteurized,<br />
homogenized, caged, medicated, enriched,<br />
whipped egg product with citric acid added <strong>to</strong><br />
preserve freshness.<br />
For me <strong>to</strong> procure organic, local, free-range<br />
eggs from <strong>the</strong> farmer adjacent <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> school’s<br />
property was way out of <strong>the</strong> box. <strong>The</strong>se are just a<br />
few of many problems <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> service company<br />
had with this request: <strong>the</strong> farmer was not on <strong>the</strong><br />
approved vendor list and did not carry a large<br />
general liability insurance policy; <strong>the</strong> eggs were<br />
still in <strong>the</strong>ir original packaging (a shell) and,<br />
<strong>the</strong>refore, could be hard <strong>to</strong> work with and possibly<br />
contaminated; <strong>the</strong> product was not pasteurized<br />
and potenti<strong>all</strong>y unsafe; and <strong>the</strong> corporate<br />
purchasing division could not negotiate a price or<br />
a large-volume purchase incentive rebate with <strong>the</strong><br />
local farmer.<br />
Continued on next page 17<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008
When it fin<strong>all</strong>y happened, it proved <strong>to</strong> be a tumultuous changeover<br />
because <strong>the</strong> last noted reason was <strong>the</strong> biggest problem. I was currently<br />
paying 90 cents a pound for <strong>the</strong> liquid egg product, a large percentage<br />
of which was “rebated” <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> service contrac<strong>to</strong>r. <strong>The</strong> price of <strong>the</strong><br />
organic, local, free-range eggs at $4.50 per dozen, with no rebate, would<br />
cost approximately three dollars more for <strong>the</strong> same amount of eggs. In<br />
my opinion, however, <strong>the</strong> quality, taste, freshness, wholesomeness, and<br />
environment<strong>all</strong>y responsible breeding practices was worth <strong>the</strong> extra money.<br />
I first started buying <strong>the</strong> eggs with <strong>the</strong> limited petty cash my school<br />
account was <strong>all</strong>ocated for miscellaneous purchases, violating every corporate<br />
policy for purchasing and exposing myself <strong>to</strong> possible termination. This felt<br />
dangerous and, at <strong>the</strong> same time, remarkably satisfying. I <strong>the</strong>n decided <strong>to</strong> go<br />
through <strong>the</strong> process of requesting my local farm, Cherry Grove, <strong>to</strong> be listed<br />
as an approved vendor. This proved <strong>to</strong> be a lengthy and time consuming<br />
procedure, but I was determined <strong>to</strong> see <strong>the</strong> process through. My second step<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />
18<br />
Lunchtime at <strong>the</strong><br />
Lawrenceville School<br />
was <strong>to</strong> request <strong>the</strong> new vendor approval application, which <strong>to</strong>ok two weeks<br />
<strong>to</strong> arrive; once <strong>the</strong> application was completed I submitted it for corporate<br />
approval. A month later, Cherry Grove was contacted by <strong>the</strong> <strong>food</strong> service<br />
contract company <strong>to</strong> submit <strong>the</strong>ir insurance documentation and <strong>to</strong> negotiate<br />
payment terms. And this is where <strong>the</strong> wheels fell off <strong>the</strong> trac<strong>to</strong>r. <strong>The</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />
service company’s accounts payable division typic<strong>all</strong>y pays <strong>the</strong>ir vendors 45<br />
days following <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> month. This meant Cherry Grove would not<br />
be paid for a delivery of eggs made on September 1 until sometime in <strong>the</strong><br />
middle of November—a payment term farmers cannot accept and survive on.<br />
I found this <strong>to</strong> be <strong>the</strong> case with every local farmer I tried <strong>to</strong> purchase from,<br />
thus ending my quest for local and sustainable <strong>food</strong> under <strong>the</strong> direction of a<br />
corporate <strong>food</strong> service company.<br />
I am proud <strong>to</strong> say at this time, in 2008, that <strong>the</strong> Lawrenceville School<br />
now receives a weekly supply of Cherry Grove eggs along with many loc<strong>all</strong>y<br />
grown and produced <strong>food</strong>s directly from <strong>the</strong> farmers and artisans in our area.<br />
Because of <strong>the</strong> inability of <strong>the</strong> large <strong>food</strong> service contrac<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> change <strong>the</strong><br />
Gary D. Giberson is a chef, <strong>food</strong> service consultant,<br />
and <strong>the</strong> founder and owner of Sustainable Fare, an<br />
environment<strong>all</strong>y responsible <strong>food</strong> service company.<br />
way <strong>the</strong>y buy <strong>food</strong>, I have become<br />
a chef by trade and a <strong>food</strong> service<br />
company owner by necessity.
BOOKS<br />
SLOW READS<br />
In Defense of <strong>Food</strong>: An Eater’s Manifes<strong>to</strong><br />
By Michael Pollan<br />
Penguin Press<br />
Good <strong>Food</strong> Tastes Good: An Argument<br />
for Trusting Your Senses and Ignoring <strong>the</strong><br />
Nutritionists<br />
by Carol Hart<br />
SpringStreet Books<br />
If you have not yet read<br />
Michael Pollan’s new book,<br />
you’ve probably heard of it.<br />
His koan of an advisory—“Eat<br />
<strong>food</strong>. Not <strong>to</strong>o much. Mostly<br />
plants.”—has already made<br />
its way <strong>to</strong> most <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />
members’ ears, if not also <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
hearts and bellies. Health and<br />
science journalist Hart covers<br />
much of <strong>the</strong> same ground as<br />
Pollan, and though her book<br />
lacks <strong>the</strong> visibility of his, it shares <strong>the</strong> same over<strong>all</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>sis. Both books argue for <strong>the</strong> simple, delicious,<br />
and health-giving properties of real, slow <strong>food</strong>, and<br />
against <strong>the</strong> reductionist vision of “nutritionism,” which<br />
breaks <strong>food</strong>s down in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir component parts. Pollan<br />
very clearly explicates <strong>the</strong> process: <strong>food</strong>s are highly<br />
processed, stripped of <strong>the</strong>ir natural nutrients along <strong>the</strong><br />
way, <strong>the</strong>n fortified afterwards <strong>to</strong> bring <strong>the</strong> lost nutrients<br />
back. However, <strong>the</strong> problem with thinking of nutrients<br />
as individual silver bullets is that it does not take in<strong>to</strong><br />
account <strong>the</strong> holistic interplay that is at work in a whole<br />
<strong>food</strong>. Both authors chart <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry of how we got in<strong>to</strong><br />
this way of thinking and <strong>the</strong>n try <strong>to</strong> help dig us out.<br />
Pollan’s book is a manifes<strong>to</strong> and <strong>the</strong>refore gives<br />
<strong>the</strong> reader general guidelines that can light <strong>the</strong> way:<br />
“Avoid <strong>Food</strong> Products that Make Health Claims” (a<br />
yam is silent because it has no wrapper on which<br />
<strong>to</strong> advertise its health bene<strong>fit</strong>s). Hart’s book is more<br />
nuts and bolts, with concrete advice such as how <strong>to</strong><br />
choose <strong>the</strong> healthiest piece of fruit in <strong>the</strong> pile (a few<br />
blemishes are a good sign, as is moderate size). Both<br />
books debunk various nutrition myths—although<br />
Hart goes more in depth with this, addressing many<br />
different specific health fads and claims—giving us<br />
<strong>the</strong> science, reasoning, and his<strong>to</strong>ry <strong>to</strong> support what<br />
we already know: <strong>to</strong>o much of any one thing is never<br />
a good idea, farm-fresh <strong>food</strong> is good and good for you,<br />
and eating <strong>food</strong> you’ve cooked yourself is <strong>the</strong> best way<br />
<strong>to</strong> eat healthily (only try not <strong>to</strong> eat so much, you hear?).<br />
—Jerusha Klemperer<br />
Sharing <strong>the</strong> Harvest: A Citizen’s Guide <strong>to</strong><br />
Community Supported Agriculture<br />
By Elizabeth Henderson and Robyn Van En<br />
Chelsea Green<br />
Increasingly Americans are<br />
waking up <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> fact that<br />
we have become a nation<br />
out of <strong>to</strong>uch with <strong>the</strong> land<br />
that provides our <strong>food</strong>—and<br />
consequently <strong>the</strong> farmers<br />
who grow it. But what do<br />
we do about it? Apart from<br />
growing your own vegetables,<br />
participating in community<br />
supported agriculture (CSA)<br />
is one of <strong>the</strong> most effective<br />
ways of sharing in both <strong>the</strong> risks and rewards of farming.<br />
In Sharing <strong>the</strong> Harvest, Elizabeth Henderson takes up<br />
<strong>the</strong> reins from <strong>the</strong> late Robyn Van En, a key figure in<br />
forming <strong>the</strong> CSA movement in North America in <strong>the</strong><br />
mid-1980s. Henderson’s book honestly sums up <strong>the</strong> truth<br />
about starting and maintaining a CSA. Since each CSA is<br />
unique and has distinct operational demands, Henderson<br />
provides detailed anecdotes compiled from dozens of CSAs<br />
around <strong>the</strong> country describing <strong>the</strong> pitf<strong>all</strong>s and ch<strong>all</strong>enges<br />
of running a CSA, along with techniques and wisdom for<br />
overcoming difficulties.<br />
Sometimes it’s <strong>the</strong> simplest wisdom that makes <strong>the</strong><br />
biggest difference. For example, communication between<br />
<strong>the</strong> farmer and CSA members is important, whe<strong>the</strong>r by way<br />
of newsletters or increasing signage amongst <strong>the</strong> lettuces.<br />
She explains share pricing and bookkeeping technologies,<br />
gives examples of harvesting and distribution methods,<br />
and even ventures in<strong>to</strong> nitty-gritty details on hard-truth<br />
issues like divorce in farming families and how it affects<br />
a CSA.<br />
Henderson believes in <strong>the</strong> power of a community<br />
uniting <strong>to</strong> grow <strong>food</strong>, and she easily imparts that spirit <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> reader. If you’ve never heard of CSA, her enthusiasm<br />
will make you a believer; if you’re looking <strong>to</strong> start one in<br />
your community or if you’re a farmer needing guidance<br />
on managing a CSA, this book is an indispensable<br />
resource. —Elizabeth Bird 19<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008
<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />
20<br />
Manifes<strong>to</strong>s on <strong>the</strong> Future of <strong>Food</strong><br />
and Seed<br />
Edited by Vandana Shiva, with essays by Michael<br />
Pollan, Carlo Petrini, Jamey Lionette, Prince Charles, &<br />
Vandana Shiva<br />
South End Press<br />
could not wait <strong>to</strong> finish this book! No, not because it<br />
I was dry and boring—just <strong>the</strong> opposite. I wanted <strong>to</strong><br />
put this book down (or in<strong>to</strong> someone else’s hands) so I<br />
could get up and do something about <strong>the</strong> future of <strong>food</strong>.<br />
Building off of Terra Madre, a ga<strong>the</strong>ring of sm<strong>all</strong><br />
<strong>food</strong> producers, chefs, educa<strong>to</strong>rs, and observers from<br />
150 countries that takes place biannu<strong>all</strong>y in Turin,<br />
Italy, <strong>the</strong> seven essays and two manifes<strong>to</strong>s in this<br />
collection carry <strong>the</strong> powerful discussions formulated<br />
at <strong>the</strong> event <strong>to</strong> a wider audience. Each author’s<br />
essay has a different focus, ranging from health <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> environment <strong>to</strong> supporting sm<strong>all</strong> producers. Yet<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir messages are united by an underlying <strong>the</strong>me of<br />
building local <strong>food</strong> economies and communities as a<br />
way <strong>to</strong> create a sustainable <strong>food</strong> chain in <strong>the</strong> US.<br />
<strong>The</strong> “Manifes<strong>to</strong> on <strong>the</strong> Future of <strong>Food</strong>” and <strong>the</strong><br />
“Manifes<strong>to</strong> on <strong>the</strong> Future of Seed” were written<br />
by <strong>the</strong> International Commission on <strong>the</strong> Future of<br />
<strong>Food</strong> with <strong>the</strong> support of <strong>the</strong> Tuscan government.<br />
Supporting “local,” which Vandana Shiva, chair of <strong>the</strong><br />
Commission, defines in her essay as <strong>the</strong> freedom <strong>to</strong><br />
do things differently and uniquely, is a core <strong>the</strong>me<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> writings. “Future of <strong>Food</strong>” illustrates<br />
how local can go beyond local. By redefining WTO<br />
guidelines so that <strong>the</strong>y support “local production,<br />
local self-reliance, and local <strong>food</strong> security,” an<br />
international network of producers and co-producers<br />
that share collective rights over agricultural practices<br />
can be created. Globalization can be made virtuous,<br />
something Carlo Petrini elaborates on earlier in <strong>the</strong><br />
book. “Future of Seed” focuses on how building a<br />
network of sustainable <strong>food</strong> communities around <strong>the</strong><br />
world intricately relates <strong>to</strong> sm<strong>all</strong> farmers’ abilities <strong>to</strong><br />
have full sovereignty over seeds <strong>the</strong>y use and save.<br />
<strong>The</strong> highlights of both manifes<strong>to</strong>s are in <strong>the</strong> personal<br />
s<strong>to</strong>ries demonstrating how communities around <strong>the</strong><br />
world, in Brazil, India, and <strong>the</strong> United States, among<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs, are responding <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>se ch<strong>all</strong>enges and<br />
developing successful, local alternatives.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> introduction, Shiva writes, “At Terra<br />
Madre, sm<strong>all</strong> producers ga<strong>the</strong>red not just <strong>to</strong> curse<br />
<strong>the</strong> darkness of corporate globalization but also <strong>to</strong><br />
light and keep lit <strong>the</strong> lamps of sm<strong>all</strong>, decentralized,<br />
biodiverse production.” For her, <strong>the</strong> book is a <strong>to</strong>ol<br />
that will help keep <strong>the</strong> metaphorical lamp lit as it<br />
instills a sense of urgency in its readers <strong>to</strong> support <strong>the</strong><br />
building of local, diversified <strong>food</strong> economies in <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
communities.<br />
Short and <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> point, this is a great read. Once<br />
you finish, check out <strong>the</strong> resources in <strong>the</strong> back, share it<br />
with a friend, and start acting. —Julia De Martini Day<br />
<strong>The</strong> Best of Bloodroot, Volume One:<br />
Vegetarian Recipes and Volume Two:<br />
Vegan Recipes<br />
By Selma Miriam and Noel Furie with<br />
Lagusta Yearwood<br />
Anomaly Press<br />
Selma, taking our<br />
orders from her<br />
desk at <strong>the</strong> door of<br />
Bloodroot Restaurant<br />
on Long Island Sound in<br />
Bridgeport, Connecticut,<br />
recommended <strong>the</strong> Spicy<br />
Haitian Polenta with<br />
Creamed Collard Greens.<br />
“It’s outta sight,” she said.<br />
And it was. I immediately<br />
bought <strong>the</strong> cookbooks,<br />
went home, and made<br />
<strong>the</strong> greens, which<br />
matched <strong>the</strong> restaurant<br />
dish <strong>to</strong> perfection. That’s<br />
<strong>the</strong> beauty of <strong>The</strong> Best of Bloodroot: a fine 30-year-old<br />
restaurant with a strong his<strong>to</strong>ry of writing cookbooks<br />
has compiled this treasury of recipes that have been<br />
made hundreds of times. <strong>The</strong>y’re boiled down, easy <strong>to</strong><br />
follow, and <strong>the</strong>y work. <strong>The</strong>se recipes are inspiring and<br />
have an exciting international flair. <strong>The</strong>y’re listed by<br />
season, which always helps in shopping and selection.<br />
Bloodroot has been serving loc<strong>all</strong>y produced <strong>food</strong>s<br />
in season since 1977. For <strong>the</strong> last eight years <strong>the</strong>y have<br />
been <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> supporters, and with Urban Oaks, <strong>the</strong><br />
farm that supplies much of <strong>the</strong>ir produce, <strong>the</strong>y help<br />
stage <strong>the</strong> annual Toma<strong>to</strong> Tomah-<strong>to</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> bene<strong>fit</strong><br />
in Connecticut. <strong>The</strong> farms bring in over 200 varieties of<br />
heirloom <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es, and Bloodroot cooks prepare some<br />
tasty dishes, always <strong>the</strong>ir famous Green Toma<strong>to</strong> Pie,<br />
which is in <strong>the</strong> cookbooks. Of course. All of <strong>the</strong>ir best<br />
recipes are <strong>the</strong>re, along with some famous essays on<br />
<strong>food</strong> and feminism.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Sake-Steamed Yukon Gold Pota<strong>to</strong>es is one<br />
of my favorite recipes. Miso Gravy is fantastic. And<br />
I thoroughly enjoyed <strong>the</strong> Seaweed and Bean Thread<br />
Noodle Salad and Brandied Bread Pudding. —Julie<br />
Jordan, author of cookbooks Wings of Life, Cabbage<strong>to</strong>wn<br />
Cafe Cookbook, and A Taste of Julie Jordan
Continued from page 7<br />
eat. Advocating for a return <strong>to</strong> tradition, <strong>to</strong> a golden<br />
era of pre-industrial <strong>food</strong> production, is not going <strong>to</strong><br />
resonate with <strong>the</strong> majority of our peers. We need <strong>to</strong> be<br />
adaptable and open <strong>to</strong> compromise if any significant<br />
progress is <strong>to</strong> be made. When it is <strong>all</strong> <strong>to</strong>o convenient<br />
and seemingly cheaper <strong>to</strong> eat poorly, and when young<br />
people often don’t have <strong>the</strong> choice <strong>to</strong> do any better,<br />
we need <strong>to</strong> be open-minded and creative agents<br />
of change. Urban gardening, shopping at farmers’<br />
markets, composting, and even cooking at home are<br />
foreign concepts <strong>to</strong> so many young Americans. It’s time<br />
<strong>to</strong> show <strong>the</strong>m that it’s not so weird <strong>to</strong> do <strong>the</strong>se things,<br />
that it’s not so hard <strong>to</strong> incorporate <strong>the</strong>m in<strong>to</strong> a busy<br />
lifestyle. It didn’t take long for fast <strong>food</strong> <strong>to</strong> become <strong>the</strong><br />
norm, so with <strong>the</strong> right approach, perhaps <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />
will become just as accepted.<br />
As Carlo Petrini said in his opening speech at <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> International Congress in Puebla, we must<br />
embody enjundia—a sense of “sacred passion”—in our<br />
thinking and action. This may be <strong>the</strong> most important<br />
thing <strong>to</strong> remember as we try <strong>to</strong> raise awareness and<br />
concern: that our own enjundia is key <strong>to</strong> awakening <strong>the</strong><br />
same passion in o<strong>the</strong>rs. Ra<strong>the</strong>r than chastising people<br />
for eating <strong>the</strong> way <strong>the</strong>y do, it’s time <strong>to</strong> show <strong>the</strong>m just<br />
how easy and rewarding it can be <strong>to</strong> care about <strong>food</strong>.<br />
After <strong>all</strong>, it’s much better <strong>to</strong> inspire glee than guilt. It’s<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> way, and <strong>the</strong>re’s no reason for young<br />
people not <strong>to</strong> join in.<br />
New resource for local-<strong>food</strong> lovers and activists!<br />
In 2005, <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> leader and long-time sustainable agriculture<br />
scholar-activist Gary Nabhan partnered with <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />
USA Executive Direc<strong>to</strong>r Erika Lesser <strong>to</strong> take on a grand charge.<br />
Toge<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong>y assembled RAFT (Renewing America’s <strong>Food</strong><br />
Traditions), a pioneering partnership of seven US education,<br />
conservation, and <strong>food</strong> organizations. RAFT was founded on <strong>the</strong><br />
premise that chefs, gastronomes, and consumers have crucial<br />
roles <strong>to</strong> play in <strong>the</strong> conservation and res<strong>to</strong>ration of <strong>food</strong> and<br />
farming traditions unique <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> North American continent.<br />
<strong>The</strong> seven founding organizations—American Lives<strong>to</strong>ck Breeds<br />
Conservancy, <strong>the</strong> Center for Sustainable Environments, Chefs<br />
Collaborative, Native Seeds/SEARCH, <strong>the</strong> Cultural Conservancy,<br />
Seed Savers Exchange, and <strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA—have since been<br />
catalysts in <strong>the</strong> conservation of dozens of heirloom vegetables<br />
and fruits, lives<strong>to</strong>ck and poultry breeds, and in <strong>the</strong> protection of<br />
traditional hunting, fishing, farming, and ga<strong>the</strong>ring grounds.<br />
A reflection of RAFT work <strong>to</strong> date, Renewing America’s <strong>Food</strong> Traditions is a beautifully<br />
illustrated dramatic c<strong>all</strong> <strong>to</strong> recognize, celebrate, and conserve <strong>the</strong> great diversity of <strong>food</strong>s that<br />
gives North America <strong>the</strong> distinctive culinary identity that reflects our multicultural heritage.<br />
It offers us rich natural and cultural his<strong>to</strong>ries as well as recipes and folk traditions associated<br />
with <strong>the</strong> rarest <strong>food</strong> plants and animals in North America. In doing so, it reminds us that what<br />
we choose <strong>to</strong> eat can ei<strong>the</strong>r conserve or deplete <strong>the</strong> cornucopia of our continent.<br />
<strong>The</strong> book doesn’t dwell on tragic losses. Instead, it highlights <strong>the</strong> success s<strong>to</strong>ries of<br />
<strong>food</strong> recovery, habitat res<strong>to</strong>ration, and market revitalization that chefs, farmers, ranchers,<br />
fishermen, and foresters have recently achieved. Through such “<strong>food</strong> parables,” edi<strong>to</strong>r Gary<br />
Nabhan and his colleagues build a persuasive argument for eater-based conservation.<br />
In addition, this book offers <strong>the</strong> first-ever list of <strong>food</strong>s at risk in America (more than<br />
a thousand) and shows how each of us can person<strong>all</strong>y support and participate in such<br />
recoveries. Organized by “<strong>food</strong> nations” named for <strong>the</strong> ecological and cultural keys<strong>to</strong>ne <strong>food</strong>s<br />
of each region—Salmon Nation, Bison Nation, Chile Pepper Nation, among o<strong>the</strong>rs—this book<br />
offers an al<strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r fresh perspective on <strong>the</strong> culinary traditions of North America.<br />
Chelsea Green<br />
Publication Date: May 2008<br />
350 pages, full-color.<br />
Available through chelseagreen.com or 1-800-639-4099<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />
21
<strong>The</strong> snail | Spring 2008<br />
22<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> USA is proud of its many accomplishments over <strong>the</strong> past year, but our<br />
achievements would not have been possible without <strong>the</strong> support of <strong>the</strong> people<br />
and organizations listed here. We thank each and every one for <strong>the</strong>ir contribution<br />
<strong>to</strong> a delicious and sustainable <strong>food</strong> system.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> Ark of Taste<br />
($10,000 and above)<br />
A<strong>the</strong>r<strong>to</strong>n Family Foundation<br />
Cedar Tree Foundation<br />
<strong>The</strong> Christensen Fund<br />
Civil Society Institute<br />
Lynne Frame & Richard Hoskins<br />
Iara Lee and George Gund III<br />
Foundation<br />
Jackson Family Farms<br />
<strong>The</strong> Kohlberg Foundation<br />
Lillian Goldman Charitable Trust<br />
OXO<br />
Alexander Palermo & Rachael<br />
Sheridan<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> San Francisco<br />
<strong>The</strong> Tresemer Foundation<br />
At <strong>the</strong> Table ($5,000–$9,999)<br />
Carlson Family Foundation<br />
Earl and Doris Bakken<br />
Foundation<br />
Jonathan Gans & Abigail Turin<br />
Kaiser Permanente Center for<br />
Health Research<br />
Hans & Kate Morris<br />
North Carolina State University<br />
Nancy Schaub<br />
Margaret Schink<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Kitchen ($1,000–<br />
$4,999)<br />
Anonymous<br />
Elana Amsterdam<br />
Brewers Association, Inc.<br />
Eleanor Briggs<br />
David Buchanan<br />
Community Foundation Sonoma<br />
County<br />
Peter & Pat De Garmo<br />
Lili & Wilson Ervin<br />
Carol Field<br />
Elizabeth Garside & Stephen<br />
Warren<br />
Genstar Capital LLC<br />
Hawaii Community Foundation<br />
Jesse Hogan<br />
Elizabeth Hund<br />
Italian Cultural Institute San<br />
Francisco<br />
Allen Katz<br />
Roslyn & Albert Katz<br />
Joan Kedziora<br />
Lynn Eve Komaromi<br />
Brian Lawlor<br />
Karen Lazarus & Robert<br />
DiScalfani<br />
Michael & Aliza Lesser<br />
Schuyler Livings<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Local Wine Events<br />
Muriel Mora<br />
Anna & Mason Mor<strong>fit</strong><br />
Ron Pardini<br />
Michael Pollan & Judith Belzer<br />
Lou & Susan Pres<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Putumayo World Music<br />
Rizzoli International<br />
Publications Inc.<br />
Marty Robinson<br />
Rotary Club of North Hawaii<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> D<strong>all</strong>as<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Portland<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Russian River<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> St. Louis<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> V<strong>all</strong>ey of <strong>the</strong> Moon<br />
Joel Smith & Terra Brockman<br />
<strong>The</strong> Stephen A. & Diana L.<br />
Goldberg Foundation<br />
Triumph Brewing Company of<br />
New Hope<br />
Unilever US Inc.<br />
Whole <strong>Food</strong>s<br />
Steve Wilson<br />
Felicia Woytak & Steve<br />
Rasmussen<br />
Edwin & Grace Schalkwyk Yowell<br />
At <strong>the</strong> Market ($500 - $999)<br />
Jo Anne & Michael Bander<br />
Toby & Charlotte Barbey<br />
Chiara Barbier<br />
Lynda Beierwaltes & Mary<br />
Lempke<br />
Frederick Beinecke<br />
Eleanor Bertino<br />
John Bogart & Carola Mone<br />
Michael Booth & Kristine Smets<br />
Gracie Cavnar<br />
Bettie Coley<br />
Rich & Shelly Collins<br />
Amy Cooper<br />
Alex & Brit d’Arbeloff<br />
Lori Daniel<br />
Philip Di Belardino<br />
Barbara Douglas<br />
Peggy Dulany<br />
Thom & Nancy Duncan<br />
Benjamin Fackler<br />
James & <strong>The</strong>resa Cella Falaschi<br />
Lisa Gershenson<br />
Adrian & Gregg Hale<br />
Nancy Hamren<br />
Kiley & Sean Hanish<br />
Nancy Harmon<br />
Gayle Hemenway & Gary Ama<strong>to</strong><br />
Denise Hudson & Chuck<br />
McDougal<br />
Institu<strong>to</strong> Italiano di Cultura<br />
Chicago<br />
R. A. Jacobs<br />
Rajiv Kohli<br />
Christina Koons<br />
Noel Labat-Comess<br />
Loretta LaFratta<br />
Laurence & Masuko Lesser<br />
Mary Angela Long & Thomas<br />
Wippenbeck<br />
Yo-Yo Ma & Jill Alison Horner<br />
Ben & Barbara Madley<br />
Patience Malone<br />
Rebecca & Jeffrey Marsh<br />
Larry & Laura Martin<br />
Philip Meldrum<br />
Bella Meyer<br />
John & Helen Meyer<br />
Sam Mogannam<br />
Tom & Kristina Montague<br />
William Henry & Robin Moore<br />
Russell Nelson & Leonard Lanzi<br />
Don Oman & Alice Goldstein<br />
Ashley & Scott Pease<br />
Phyllis & Charles Petrillo<br />
Rick & Mary Pitman<br />
Marjorie Randolph<br />
Richard Ray<br />
Jim Reynolds<br />
Roberta Robins & Joel Gartland<br />
Michael Romano<br />
Gretchen Schaffner & Alex Reid<br />
Richard & Susan Shereff<br />
Gary & Susan Spo<strong>to</strong><br />
Angie Vorhies<br />
John Wilmot<br />
Karen & Don Young<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Pantry ($250 - $499)<br />
George Bailey & Porter Watkins<br />
Marian Baldauf & Megan Berka<br />
Peter Berley<br />
Andrew Blau & Hea<strong>the</strong>r Imboden<br />
James & Lisa Bubar<br />
Dolores Cakebread<br />
Christy Canida<br />
Laura Carlson<br />
Sarah Chironi<br />
Robert Tod Chubrich<br />
Jeffrey Clements<br />
Cheryl Coffin & Ralph Topham<br />
William Davnie<br />
Gary & Nancy De Martini<br />
Mark Feichtmeir & Karen Boness<br />
Jennifer & Scott Geller<br />
Mitchell Guthman<br />
Sandra Keros<br />
George Killian<br />
Kristie & Rick Knoll<br />
Jeremy Koch & Ka<strong>the</strong>rine<br />
Humps<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
Michael & Lisa Koch Kornick<br />
G. Thomas Lasher<br />
Eileen & Paul LeFort<br />
Tracy Leonard-Turi<br />
Pamela & Don Lichty<br />
Ka<strong>the</strong>rine Loo<br />
Abby Mandel<br />
Cynthia McClure<br />
Leslie McEachern & Amy Chaplin<br />
Arie McFarlen & Bret Kortie<br />
Christine McGoldrick & Sean<br />
McGoldrick<br />
Ca<strong>the</strong>rine McNamee & Chris<br />
Miller<br />
Neil Nathanson<br />
Deborah Neasi & Avram Miller<br />
Liz Neumark<br />
Thomas Pappas<br />
Rosemary Pritzker<br />
Elisabeth Prueitt & Chad<br />
Robertson<br />
Anna Pump & Merrill Indoe<br />
Nancy Ranney<br />
Roslyn Raskin<br />
Phil & Kay Richardson<br />
Marilyn Roach<br />
Lilly Rubin<br />
Brian & Julie Satterwhite<br />
Robert Schingler<br />
Frederick Schwarz, Jr.<br />
John & Patricia Sharpe<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Katy Trail Convivium<br />
Debby & Baker Smith<br />
Scot Lucas Spicer<br />
Ann & Chris Stack<br />
Eugene & Jean Stark<br />
Susan Su<strong>the</strong>rland & David<br />
Mustelier<br />
Richard <strong>The</strong>is & Carolyn Johnson<br />
David & Karie Thomson<br />
Poppy Tooker & Nicky Muladoo<br />
David Up<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Josh Viertel<br />
James & Ka<strong>the</strong>rine Wassman<br />
Warren & Anne Weisberg<br />
Jacqueline Weltman<br />
Elizabeth Wilson<br />
Daniel Windham & Mary<br />
McElroy<br />
Devera & Michael Witkin<br />
<strong>The</strong> Zyman Foundation, Inc.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> Farm ($100 - $249)<br />
Regina & John Adams<br />
Kathryn & David Allen<br />
Anne Alvord<br />
Tony Ama<strong>to</strong> & Jamie Brown<br />
Christy Anderson & Will Carl<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Bonnie Andrews<br />
Stanley & Barbara Arkin<br />
Gary & Ann Baer<br />
Nancy Bailey & Gary Herzberg<br />
Sam & Karen Barbieri<br />
Barbara Bardin<br />
Ben & Karen Barker<br />
S<strong>all</strong>y & Jim Barrett<br />
Hea<strong>the</strong>r Barta<br />
Richard & Wendy Baskin<br />
Glenn Baumann & Tammy Engel<br />
Judith & Thomas Beckmen<br />
Meredith Bell<br />
Elaine Bellin & Phyllis Coontz<br />
Albert Bentley III<br />
Wendy Berger<br />
Ellen Berryhill<br />
Suzanne Biegel & Daniel Maskit<br />
Krissy & Todd Biernacki<br />
Kathleen Billings<br />
Alyce Birchenough & Doug<br />
Wolbert<br />
Leslie Blair & Bill Gwin<br />
Christy Bohnet<br />
John Bolin<br />
Bob Bonar & Shelby Floyd<br />
Cynthia & James Bowhay<br />
Barbara & Bill Bowman<br />
Barbara Boyle<br />
John & Debbie Braswell<br />
Terrance Brennan<br />
Michelle Brie<br />
Cheryl Brock<br />
Brenda Brodie<br />
J. Carrie Brown<br />
Joseph Brown<br />
Suzie Brown & Marki Knox<br />
Margaret Brownell<br />
Brett Bruyere<br />
Mary Canales<br />
Gabrielle Carbone-Errico &<br />
Mat<strong>the</strong>w Errico<br />
Laurie Carlson & Charles Giuli<br />
Julie Carter & Bob Carter<br />
Baylor Chapman
Ivy Chu<br />
An<strong>to</strong>nino Ciaccio & Virginia<br />
Ciaccio<br />
Gail Coad & James McGinness<br />
Fritzi Cohen<br />
Corinne Colen<br />
Libby Cone & Thomas Borawski<br />
Suzanne Congdon & Randy<br />
Garitty<br />
Bink & Jack Cook<br />
Patricia Cook<br />
Leslie Cooperband & Wes Jarrell<br />
Paul Cooperstein<br />
Candace Cornitius & Daniel<br />
Martinez<br />
Ann Cousineau<br />
Carol Craig<br />
Wendy & Anthony Craven<br />
Claire & Frank Criscuolo<br />
Breeze Cross<br />
Albert Daniti & Tina Crispo<br />
Brooks & Janet Davis<br />
Thalia & Mattson Davis<br />
Margaret DeArdo<br />
Phillip & Hilary Somers Deely<br />
William DeJong<br />
Carole Desnoes<br />
Ka<strong>the</strong>rine Deumling & Brian<br />
Detman<br />
Michael Deverell & Donna Gray<br />
Mag Dimond<br />
Olga Dominguez<br />
Wendy Downing<br />
Mary Dragich & John Pas<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Peter Dressen<br />
Bettina Dreyer<br />
Jon DuClos<br />
Dupont Agriculture and<br />
Nurtrition<br />
Margot Early<br />
Kari Eas<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Eric & Rose Edell<br />
Lee Elliott & William Jones<br />
Mark Elliott<br />
Curtis Ellis<br />
American Express Employee<br />
Giving Program<br />
Bill Ericson & Jennifer Major<br />
John Evenhuis<br />
Stanley & Judith Feder<br />
Sylvia Feldman & Fran<br />
McDermid<br />
Margaret & Joseph Ferretti<br />
Bob & Paula Fey<br />
Jennifer Fields<br />
Mark & Robin Finkelstein<br />
Linda & Mark Fioretti<br />
Sheila Fishman<br />
Sherry Flanders-Page<br />
Leslie Ann Flinn<br />
Joseph Flood & Jeanne Likins<br />
Brendan Flynn<br />
Judith Flynn<br />
Edward Lori Forstein<br />
Sheryl Fox<br />
Nello & Karen Franco<br />
Natalie Frank & Tim Hanson<br />
Rosalind Freundlich<br />
Lewis Friedman & Lynn Passy<br />
David Gan & Lily Lu<br />
Diane Gandee & Dan Sorbi<br />
Lisa Gansky<br />
Flora Gee<br />
Paul Gepts & Elizabeth Garcia<br />
Enrico Giacalone<br />
Scott Gill<br />
Peter Ladd Gilsey<br />
Michael & Carol Gingrich<br />
Paul Giovanelli<br />
Michal Glines<br />
Beth Glosten & David Stutz<br />
Skip & Cookie Glover<br />
Lawrence Gold<br />
Sharon Goldwater<br />
Mariel Goss<br />
David Griffin<br />
David Gross & Sarah Kate<br />
Heilbrun<br />
Anthony Gullace<br />
Kathleen Hagberg<br />
Susie Hagemeister<br />
Gary & Judy Hagge<br />
Walter Hannah<br />
Howard & Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Hanson<br />
Gwen Harada<br />
Bill Hartman<br />
Suzette B Hatfield<br />
Susan Hedrick Brady<br />
Susan Hermanson & Larry<br />
Robinson<br />
Ronald & Eva Herrerias<br />
Laurie Herscher<br />
Pamela Herskovitz<br />
Abigail Higgins<br />
Robert & Metha Hillard<br />
Bobbie & Tatn<strong>all</strong> Hillman<br />
David R. Hirst<br />
W. Jefferson Holt & Kate<br />
Bot<strong>to</strong>mley<br />
Kathy Horne<br />
Rusty Hubbell<br />
Stacie Hunt<br />
Ann Hunter-Welborn & David<br />
Welborn<br />
Doug & Lynn Hutchinson<br />
Inn at Baldwin Creek<br />
Anne Isaak<br />
Ira Jacknis<br />
Ronnie Jacobs<br />
Fritz James<br />
Julie Jensen & Robert Bryan<br />
Dean Johanneck<br />
Carolyn Johnson<br />
Deborah Johnson<br />
Patricia Johnson<br />
Mary Jones<br />
Dan Joslin<br />
Dean Joyce & Emma<br />
Christensen<br />
Sandor Katz<br />
Dick & Sue Kellogg<br />
Michael Kelly & Lou Ann<br />
Seaman<br />
Naomi & Thandeka King<br />
Patricia King<br />
Terry Kinzel & Sue Ellen<br />
Kingsley<br />
Steven Kir<strong>all</strong>a & Lorena Gonda<br />
Dorothy Kirkley<br />
Susan Koe<br />
Glenn Koehrsen<br />
Paul & Andrea Koontz<br />
Katharine Kunst<br />
Frances & Jack Kyte<br />
Lisa La Corte-Kring & Richard<br />
Kring<br />
Paul Ladeira<br />
Nana Lamp<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Mauna Lani Resort<br />
Arthur Lee<br />
Charlie Lefevre & Leslie Scott<br />
Alexandra Leigh-Hunt<br />
Nancy & Tony Lilly<br />
Mark Lodge & <strong>The</strong>resa Fen<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Enrique Lopez & Monica Padilla<br />
Vincent Luciani<br />
Andrea Lucky<br />
David Lundberg & Maria Orefice<br />
Barbara Lutz<br />
John Lyons<br />
Robert Maby<br />
Douglas Mack & Linda Harmon<br />
John Mackie & Kate Ecker<br />
Charles & Rose Maher<br />
Sheri Mahoney<br />
Laura Maioglio & Dr. Gunter<br />
Blobel<br />
Mitchell & Laurie Major<br />
Ann Malzberg<br />
Marin Horizon School<br />
Sheryl & Jose Marquez<br />
Barrie Mars<br />
Emily Masters<br />
Judith McAuley<br />
Carol McCarthy<br />
Meghan McCleary & Jay Keller<br />
Roger & Sharon McErlane<br />
Scott McKay<br />
Donna McLoughlin<br />
Glenda McPherson<br />
Chris & John Meharg<br />
Ellen Mertins<br />
Jen Michaelis<br />
Kay Michaels<br />
Microsoft Matching Gift<br />
Kenneth Migliorelli<br />
Barbara Miller<br />
Sharon Mills<br />
Elizabeth Moisan<br />
Savas Mojarrad<br />
Rick Montague<br />
Susan Montanaro<br />
Cynthia Morgan<br />
Michele Morris<br />
Kim & Grady Moseley<br />
Scott Murray & Nancy Winters<br />
Layla & Austin Musselman<br />
George & Kathleen Heitz Myers<br />
Robert Nail<br />
Anne Niedergang<br />
Nike Nike<br />
Sherrill Nixon<br />
Arthur Nowak<br />
Elizabeth O’Shea<br />
Jane Oakes & Joa Dattilo<br />
Richard O’Dwyer & Katharine<br />
Pickering<br />
Dolores & Nick Orfanakis<br />
Amy Ostrau<br />
David Ottaway<br />
Robert & Meaders Moore<br />
Ozarow<br />
Denise Palmieri & Joseph Logan<br />
Chris<strong>to</strong>pher Papagni<br />
Christine Pardee<br />
William & Liebe Patterson<br />
Jane Pellicciot<strong>to</strong><br />
Bob Perry<br />
Jeff P<strong>fit</strong>zer & Karen Noell<br />
Phan<strong>to</strong>m Labora<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
Philipse Manor Garden Club<br />
Nancy Phillips<br />
Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Pierson & Hunter<br />
Pierson<br />
Cory Pike<br />
Gary & Jean Pokorny<br />
Godfrey Polistina<br />
Barry Popkin<br />
Nora Pouillon<br />
Margaret Power<br />
Harry Presberg<br />
Christine & Doug Pres<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Barbara & David Pryor<br />
Harriet Purtell<br />
Andrew & Laurel Quady<br />
Mary Jo Radosevich<br />
Joanna Rashid<br />
Michael & Darlene Read<br />
Tim & Patricia Redmond<br />
John Respin<strong>to</strong><br />
Joan & Megan Reynolds<br />
Leslyn Rigoni<br />
Barbara Rivers<br />
Rona Roberts<br />
Anne Robertson<br />
Dina Ross<br />
Ellen Rovner<br />
Jocelyne Roy & Peter<br />
O’C<strong>all</strong>aghan<br />
Whitney Jones & Jeffrey Roy<br />
Joan Ruggles Young<br />
Maria Sakellariou & Scott<br />
Thompson<br />
Rita Saltz<br />
Dabney & Walker Sanders<br />
Susan Sarandon<br />
Scott & Wanda Schroeder<br />
Charles Schuchat<br />
Julie Shaffer<br />
Amber Share-Oliver & Stephen<br />
Oliver<br />
Tom Sherman & Nancy<br />
Middlebrook<br />
Alice & Michael Shiffman<br />
Russell Shumaker & Hollister<br />
Lindley<br />
Kerry & Kristen Skel<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Scott & Madeleine Sklar<br />
<strong>Slow</strong> <strong>Food</strong> Alta Arizona<br />
Paige Smith<br />
R Martin Smith<br />
Joanne Soued & Rick Soued<br />
Richard Spiegel<br />
Ken Spolarich<br />
Greg Staple<br />
Shannon Stember<br />
Steven Stichter<br />
Leigh S<strong>to</strong>kes & Tom Gerlach<br />
Anna Stulz<br />
Sun Microsystems<br />
Tucker Swan<br />
Tom & Grace Tate<br />
Jean & David Toleman<br />
Virginia Torczon & Michael<br />
Lewis<br />
Hen Truong<br />
Marsha & Jon VanDusseldorp<br />
Linda & Jack Viertel<br />
Estelle Voeller<br />
Roger & Karen Vrilakas<br />
Donald W. Boys & Ann E.<br />
Towsley<br />
Henry & Marion Wainer<br />
Sharon Walker<br />
Richard & Rosemary Walrod<br />
Gerry & Diane Warren<br />
Walter Watson & Jennifer<br />
Maddox<br />
John Watt<br />
Michael Weber & Frances Spivy-<br />
Weber<br />
Earl & Gina Weiner<br />
Nicholas Weingarten & Cynthia<br />
Winter<br />
<strong>The</strong> snail | spring 2008<br />
23
Friend & Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Wells<br />
Jan Wells<br />
Kari Wenger<br />
Phil & Cameron West<br />
Diane Williams<br />
Jacques Williams & Robin Robar<br />
June & Monty Williams<br />
Barbara & Howard Wollner<br />
Jim & Joan Wright<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Garden ($50 - $99)<br />
Anonymous<br />
Anonymous<br />
Carole Addles<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
Adobe Systems Incorporated<br />
Mat<strong>the</strong>w Arrants & Stacy Smith<br />
Diana Arrieta<br />
Brad Berkin<br />
Michael Berkowitz<br />
Mary Bon & Menno Marringa<br />
Mitch & Karla Booth<br />
Robert Borchardt<br />
BP Matching Funds<br />
Peggy Brown<br />
Alexia Brue & Ethan Klemperer<br />
John Bruno<br />
Joanne Cafiero<br />
Robert Carmany<br />
Christine Cattin & Dale Coke<br />
Joseph Chambers & Barbara Coda<br />
Giovanni Cicero & Sylvia<br />
Christine<br />
Karen Clarke<br />
Bob Conner<br />
Anita & Tom Cook<br />
Roger Cross<br />
Sara Cummings<br />
Janet Davis<br />
Cynthia Devereaux & Thomas<br />
Fischer<br />
Anne Dhunjishaw<br />
John Di Ruocco<br />
Carolyn Dille & Dick Walvis<br />
Lisa & David Duke<br />
Barbara & Don Elliott<br />
Susan & Jan Erdey-Nunley<br />
Richard & Marla Faszholz<br />
Francesco Favazza & Karen Rajcic<br />
Doug & Barbara Flack<br />
Rachel Forrest<br />
Sue Fowells<br />
Carlos & Martha Franco<br />
Donald Frediani & Renata Gasperi<br />
Franca Fusco & David Eustace<br />
Bart Geraci<br />
Global Impact<br />
Joel & Varda Goldman<br />
Thomas Graham & Trina Harrison<br />
Bruce Henry<br />
Stephen Joel Hersh & Dana Ann<br />
Levenberg<br />
Steven Heydemann & Gail David<br />
William & Melissa Hoehn<br />
Henry Homeyer & Karen<br />
Woodbury<br />
Michael Houlihan & Bonnie<br />
Harvey<br />
Laurie Jacobs<br />
Sharon Jones<br />
Carole Kanter<br />
Janice Kend<strong>all</strong> & Wesley Wiley<br />
Joan Kennedy<br />
S<strong>all</strong>y & Tim Kennedy<br />
Gordon & Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Kirschner<br />
Harry Lederman & Sandra Gooch<br />
David & Mari Lee<br />
Susan Lightfoot<br />
Lawrence Loewinger<br />
Maria Maffei<br />
Steffan Manno<br />
Susan Marquis<br />
Jeanne McConnell & Mack<br />
Anderson<br />
Richard & Barbara Meidinger<br />
Gayle & Mike Merkle<br />
Microsoft Matching Gifts Program<br />
Nancy Nipples Douty<br />
Lee Park<br />
Kristan Parks & Anthony Allen<br />
Edward & Geng Passaro<br />
Cynthia Pawlcyn<br />
David Pecusa<br />
Pfizer Foundation Matching Gifts<br />
Program<br />
Juliette Pope<br />
Don & Phyllis Reynolds<br />
Cathie Richardson<br />
Jacques Rieux & Donna Bathory<br />
Alicia Rojas & Howard Lyons<br />
Bruce & Jill Sanchez<br />
John Schulz<br />
Patricia & Fred Sehnert<br />
Schwab Fund for Charitable<br />
Giving<br />
Kristen Siemon & Sam Medford<br />
Libby Spears<br />
Ann Speckman & Rachel<br />
Lavengood<br />
Caterina Sticco Howard<br />
Chandler S<strong>to</strong>lp<br />
Ann & Rick Streiffer<br />
Hilary Sunderland<br />
Wendy & Jon Taggart<br />
Kathryn Tawney<br />
Don Thompson<br />
Terry Trotter<br />
Sarah Valentine<br />
Marla & Chris Vaughn<br />
Paul Vershbow & Karen Jacob<br />
Rick Werner & Barbara Langhenry<br />
Donna Wolf R.D & Clifford Wolf<br />
D.P.M<br />
Pedro Zayas & Marina Roura<br />
Barbara & Michel Zelnick<br />
Yuri Asano & Yoshiro Funabiki<br />
Jill DiLosa & Bob Merritt<br />
Richard & Robin Edwards<br />
Lolis Elie<br />
Donald Gibbon & Linda Bazan<br />
Robin Gingerich<br />
Benjamin Harris & Rebecca<br />
Mitchell<br />
William Keller<br />
Leslie Kohman & Jeffrey Smith<br />
Ann McCarty<br />
Barbara Navelski<br />
Aura Oslapas & Robert Arko<br />
Michele Rosa<br />
Harlan & Audrey Rosenberg
SLOW FOOD USA<br />
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Brooklyn, NY 11201<br />
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