01 TIME MACHINE 02 For TECHIEs - Use It Warsaw

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IE rzyski Korsaka yszewska tara ralny wa AL. ZIELENIECKA Radzy ZAMOYSKIEGO GROCHOWSKA Walecznych II LUDOWEJ Jasna Boleść ostowa iętojańska a Mazowiecka Piwna Solec Ludna Czerniakowska Dąbrowiecka WAŁ MIĘDZYSZYŃSKI Moniuszki Lubelska Katowicka Most Łazienkowski ota Mazowiecka Sienkiewicza Boleść Świętojańska Szpitaln Francuska Czackiego Rondo Waszyngtona Poselska Koźmińska Traugutta Traugutta Czackiego Myśliwiecka Warecka Francuska Paryska Zwycięzców Bednarska KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE Karowa ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKA Górskiego IĘTOKRZYSKA AL. WASZYNGTONA Górnośląska Fabryczna NOWY ŚWIAT WYBRZEŻE HELSKIE Marien sztat NOWY Furmańska NOWY ŚWIAT Mińska WYBRZEŻE HELSKIE , a bottle of Chopin vodka, both availevery respectable supermarket, or a , gilded porcelain cast of his famous ka 43 M HILDrEN (AND ADULT) FrIENDLY CAFÉ TKI I PĘDZLE (Brushes and Paint- ) is a small cafe that operates under of an old shop that existed there for s. It was established by two young s as a children-friendly place, but don’t hordes of screaming toddlers. It is d popular with students who come r coffee (from 4,50 zł), cake (6 zł) or st (10 zł). Open daily: 10-22. Bednarska Karowa Marien sztat ut the beautifully designed children’s ne Czarodziejska Kura (the Magic Hen) he owners’ husbands. ka 45b AFKA CAFÉ Furmańska ith students from the nearby univer- FKA is famous not just for the coffee beautiful interior, but also for the ap programme. You can bring your ok and exchange it for any book from HIP sTrEETs KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE wska has grown into a fashion street . Along with shops where rich suburban can live out their California fantasies, th-oriented multibrands like FUMO, you flagships of young Polish brands: from street label TURBOKOLOR (at Veteran op Mokotowska 28) to super-sophistind super-Warsaw ANIA KUCZYŃSKA (at wska 61). TrEET MUFFIN ES is the first shop in Poland that sells ffins and cupcakes, in many shapes ours (6 zł each), different everyday L 83 Most Poniatowskiego Saska Most Śląsko-Dąbrowski Obrońców SOLEC Łazienkowska Kopernika Ordynacka Gałczyńskiego Most Śląsko-Dąbrowski Sewerynów Bartoszewicza Kopernika Kopernika Browarna Sewerynów Okólnik Dobra Wiślana Oboźna Bartoszewicza Foksal Radna TAMKA Szwoleżerów So the shelf. In warmer months borrow a deck chair from the bar and enjoy your coffee in the sun on the lawn in front. Open daily 9-22. ul. Oboźna 3 78 THE LITErATE BArBArIAN CZUŁY BArBArZYŃCA is Warsaw’s first – and perhaps still the best – café/bookshop that spawned the klubokawiarnia craze, named in a tribute to the Czech author Bohumil Hrabal and its book ‘The Gentle Barbarian’. Coffee, cake and tons of good books, also in English, plus young crowd. For the illiterate – a giant swing is hanging from the ceiling. Open: Mon-Thu 10-22, Fri-Sat 10- 24, Sun 12-22 ul. Dobra 31 79 THE MErMAID Bearing a sword and a shield, the mermaid (SYRENA, syrenka) is an official symbol of the city. There are lots of statues scattered around the city and you can’t avoid the one in the Old Town Square, but we prefer the one on the riverfront. Browarna Dobra Cicha Saska Lipowa Wiślana Oboźna JAGIELLOŃSKA CZERNIAKOWSKA Dobra Drewniana Radna TAMKA Lipowa Topiel Panieńska Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie Solec Zajęcza Tamka Dobra Okrzei Obozowa Zawiszy Złocienia Syreny AL. ZIELENIECKA Walecznych Targowa RatuszowaRatuszowa Dobra Drewniana Kruczkowskiego Cicha JAGIELLOŃSKA Muscular and androgynous, it better reflects the character of the city and its symbol, the bad-ass sister of the romantic and peaceful Copenhagen mermaid. The statue, finished in 1939, was modeled for by the student Krystyna Krahelska who tragically died 5 years later in the uprising against Germans, adding a new dimension to the monument. The surrounding park, generally empty, is a good place for joggers and cyclers. Good view to the new-ish Świętokrzyski Bridge – one of the icons of modern Warsaw. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, near the Świetokrzyski Bridge 80 GrEEN LIBrArY The 1999 UNIVERSITY LIBRARY (Biblioteka Uniwersytecka) is one of the most loved modern buildings in Warsaw. With its great quality learning spaces, shops, cafes, the green internal street, green façade and an amazing roof garden with views of the city (free!) it gave birth to a social phenomenon of ‘buwing’ (pronounce: ‘booving’) – hanging out at the library for reasons other than reading. Unfortunately you need a pass to enter the study spaces but you can take a peek inside from the roof. The Topiel Panieńska building is full of literary references, starting with seven gigantic open books on the façade along ul. Dobra. Open daily: 9-21, sundays 15-20, roof garden open April-October 9-18. Across the street have a look at the mural on the fascade of the public library in ul. Radna reminding that Maria Skłodowska-Curie was indeed born in Warsaw. ul. Dobra 56/66 81 CoPErNICUs rEVoLUTIoN Sierakowskiego WYBRZEŻE SZCZECIŃSKIE The COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE (Centrum Nauki Kopernik) is the first big public building built directly on the riverfront, a wildly popular (200,000 visitors in first 3 months) place for discovering science, soon to open a 24 hour roof top park, set to rival the one at the nearby university library. Open: Tue-Fri 9-18, Sat Sun 10-19, tickets: 22 (adults) / 16 (students) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, Kruczk Solec Dąbrowiecka WAŁ MIĘDZYSZYŃSKI Kłopotowskiego Most Świętokrzyski Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie selection of books and magazines. Focus on art, interiors and fiction. One of our afternoon favourites. ul. Wilcza 26 98 EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED A gallery of sorts run by Bęc Zmiana foundation is a meeting place and a natural starting point for everyone interested in culture. You will leave with your pockets stuffed with leaflets and a bag full of beautiful books. ul. Mokotowska 65 99 23-HoUr PArTY PEoPLE The corner bar SZPILKA is open 23 hours a Zajęcza Tamka Dobra Katowicka Most Łazienkowski Jana Ostroga Wawrzyszewska Agawy Jagielońska 11 Listopada Wrzesińska Okrzei 82 ArE YoU GAME? Inżynierska Wileńska Płocka Stalowa Solec Francuska Targowa RatuszowaRatuszowa Housed in a shabby pavilion next to a railway bridge, Solec is much more than a bar. Great food and sunny terrace aside, the place is famous for games; games as in ‘Scrabble’, not as in ‘Playstation’. You can buy them there and take home – from well-known mass brands to obscure inventions shipped from abroad, or try them out first. All you have to do is pick your favourite and pay 1 or 2 złoty per person at the bar for the privilege and play till you drop. ul. Solec 44 Open: Monday 16-, Tuesday-Sunday 12- 83 1500 M2 Do WYNAJĘCIA 1500 SQ. METRES FOR RENT or simply 1500 is one of the biggest clubs with a quality programme of electronic and indie music. Get lost in the labirynth space durroundung a courtyard. In the daytime you can pop in to LoVE AND TrADE – a pop up shop selling young Warsaw fashion brands. ul. Solec 18/20 84 osIr Sierakowskiego Rondo Waszyngtona Konopacka Poselska AL.SOLIDARNOŚCI Francuska Paryska Zwycięzców Kłopotowskiego TARGOWA WYBRZEŻE SZCZECIŃSKIE Jagielońska Most Świętokrzyski Białostocka Tatarska Sołtyka 11 Listopada Wrzesińska Wierzynka AL. WASZYNGTONA Stalowa Inżynierska Wileńska Brzeska Most Poniatowskiego ugosza Saska Obrońców Ząbkowska ZAMOYSKIEGO Sokola Markowska Konopacka Run by bicycle enthusiasts, osir is a cozy bar with a vintage decor across the street from the Chopin Centre. Open: Mon.-Fri. 10 – 2, Sat.-Sun. 12-2 ul. Tamka 40 85 BooKIsH AND ENGLIsH AL.SOLIDARNOŚCI If you happened to leave the Da Vinci Code on the Berlin-Moscow train or want to cultivate an itellectual look at your favourite klubokawiarnia, try ALL THAT STUFF, a small shop packed full of cheap, second hand books shipped straight from Britain. Open: Mon-Fri 10.30-18.30, Sat 10.30-15.30 ul. Solec 18b 86 BooK ME A TABLE To the relief of students, a posh restaurant on the ground floor of the University Library recently gave way to a much more affordable cafeteria REWERS. Lunch will cost you somewhere between 10 and 20 zł. Open: Monday-Sunday 9.30-22 ul. Dobra 56/66 87 CUTE sHoP KIJOWSKA ŻoLIBorZ 21 MURAL Warsaw's graphic duo Twożywo take inspiration from constructivism and Bauhaus to create visually sophisticated and witty murals. This one is a meditation on cleanliness, painted on the wall of a health centre. Address: ul. Żelazna 79 Tarchomińska TARGOWA Girls of every age will love the tiny shop of local fashion brand MYSIKRÓLIK: one owner, two floors, ten square metres, dozens of bales of fabric, hundreds of buttons, thousands of pins and needles. Open: Mon-Fri 11-19 ul. Okólnik 11a, entrance from Ordynacka 88 HEY, sIsTEr! You cannot get behind the gate of the Charity Daughters congregation but while cycling down Kruczkowskiego you can have a look through the fence and see an enormous field in the middle of the city. The nuns grow their own fruit and vegetables and on a lucky day you will see a horse drawn plough in the middle of a 21st century city. ul. Kruczkowskiego 101 CoNTEMPorArY ArT IN A BAroQUE CAsTLE Art lovers cannot miss the Center of Contemporary Art (CSW). In the baroque Ujazdowski Castle (Zamek Ujazdowski) you will find shows of international and Polish artists, a decent permanent collection, a bookshop, the Kino. Lab arthouse cinema, a cosy café and the artsy yet pricey (main courses: 28-68 zł) Qchnia Artystyczna restaurant with stunning views over the park. If you can’t be bothered to go in, at least check out the stone benches in the alley leading to the main entrance – adorned by stone benches by the American artist Jenny Holzer. Open Tue-Sun 11-19, Fridays til 21, closed Mondays, tickets: 12/6 zł, free on Thursdays, Białostocka Gibalskiego Mireckiego POPIEŁUSZKI ŻoLIBorZ Korsaka Piaskowa Skaryszewska Kolska AL. ZIELENIECKA Saska Brzeska Burakowska POWĄZKOWSKA ZAMOYSKIEGO Spokojna Walecznych Dą Radzymińska Okopowa Most iatowskiego Próchnika Ząbkowska Ka Lubelska OKOPOWA Potocka SŁOWACKIEGO Francuska Siedlecka ZAMOYSKIEGO Sokola Markowska Poselsk Esperanto Wolność Kacza Krasińskiego Niegolewskiego KIJOWSKA Francuska Miła D Stawki Niska Smocza Anielewicza Rondo Waszyngtona Bellotiego Tarchomińska Pawia Saska B MICKIEW Żoliborz is a leafy modernist neighbourhood with a small-town atmosphere and some surprising history. For instance, it is the only part of Warsaw that David Bowie saw on his way back from russia in 1977. When the train stopped at Warszawa Gda ska station, the rock star took a short wal incidentally in the direction of Żoliborz, no the centre. He bought a random Polish fol record at a bookshop and got back on the train. A few weeks later he recorded the eponymous album Low, remaking the folk tune into the super-low song Warszawa. The rest is rock n’roll history 107 PArKLIFE Mińska GROCHOWSKA Kozietulskiego Kawęczyńska PARK KĘPA POTOCKA is a magnet in spring and summer. You can rent a boat at the cana have a beer at the cult bar U ARABA and in the evening – admire Maurycy Gomulicki’s neon light installation LIGHTSPURT (Światłotrysk) in the shape of a glass of pink lemonade. 108 WArsAW FooD Skarys ŻYWICIEL is a neighbourhood restaurant that takes pride in serving typical Warsaw cuisine, e.g. tripe (flaki – 16 zł). For the faint at heart, there are salads and other standard international fare. Plac Inwalidów 10, open: 10-23 109 sPorTs MUsEUM MUZEUM SPORTU I TURYSTYKI housed in th sleek new Olympic Centre, is a collection of sAsKA KĘPA 118 119 110 111 116 114 AL. WASZYNGTON 115 113 Dzielna Obrońców M
So rmer months borrow a deck bar and enjoy your coffee in the n in front. Open daily 9-22. Saska ha TErATE BArBArIAN rZYŃCA is Warsaw’s first – till the best – café/bookshop he klubokawiarnia craze, ute to the Czech author l and its book ‘The Gentle ee, cake and tons of good English, plus young crowd. For a giant swing is hanging from en: Mon-Thu 10-22, Fri-Sat 10- ErMAID d and a shield, the NA, syrenka) is an of the city. There are cattered around can’t avoid the own Square, but ne on the riverfront. ndrogynous, it better reflects the city and its symbol, the bad-ass antic and peaceful Copenhahe statue, finished in 1939, was the student Krystyna Krahelska ied 5 years later in the uprising s, adding a new dimension to The surrounding park, generally d place for joggers and cyclers. e new-ish Świętokrzyski Bridge ns of modern Warsaw. ciuszkowskie, near the Bridge wa na JAGIELLOŃSKA LIBrArY CZERNIAKOWSKA Dobra Lipowa Drewniana Radna Topiel Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie Solec Zajęcza Tamka Dobra Obozowa Zawiszy Złocienia Syreny AL. ZIELENIECKA Walecznych Targowa RatuszowaRatuszowa Panieńska Kruczkowskiego Cicha JAGIELLOŃSKA ERSITY LIBRARY (Biblioteka ) is one of the most loved mod- Warsaw. With its great quality s, shops, cafes, the green intern façade and an amazing roof ws of the city (free!) it gave l phenomenon of ‘buwing’ (proing’) – hanging out at the library er than reading. Unfortunately ss to enter the study spaces but peek inside from the roof. The of literary references, starting antic open books on the façade . Open daily: 9-21, sundays den open April-October 9-18. et have a look at the mural on the public library in ul. Radna Maria Skłodowska-Curie was Warsaw. 6 KA Dobra Drewniana Topiel Panieńska Okrzei NICUs rEVoLUTIoN Sierakowskiego WYBRZEŻE SZCZECIŃSKIE US SCIENCE CENTRE (Cenernik) is the first big public irectly on the riverfront, a wildly 00 visitors in first 3 months) vering science, soon to open top park, set to rival the one at versity library. 9-18, Sat Sun 10-19, tickets: 22 dents) ościuszkowskie 20, Dąbrowiecka WAŁ MIĘDZYSZYŃSKI Kłopotowskiego Most Świętokrzyski Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie oks and magazines. Focus on d fiction. One of our afternoon T THE UNEXPECTED rts run by Bęc Zmiana foundag place and a natural starting one interested in culture. You your pockets stuffed with leaffull of beautiful books. a 65 Ur PArTY PEoPLE Kruczk Solec SZPILKA is open 23 hours a Zajęcza Tamka Dobra Katowicka Most Łazienkowski Jana Ostroga Wawrzyszewska Agawy Jagielońska 11 Listopada Wrzesińska Okrzei 82 ArE YoU GAME? Inżynierska Wileńska Płocka Stalowa Solec Francuska Targowa RatuszowaRatuszowa Housed in a shabby pavilion next to a railway bridge, Solec is much more than a bar. Great food and sunny terrace aside, the place is famous for games; games as in ‘Scrabble’, not as in ‘Playstation’. You can buy them there and take home – from well-known mass brands to obscure inventions shipped from abroad, or try them out first. All you have to do is pick your favourite and pay 1 or 2 złoty per person at the bar for the privilege and play till you drop. ul. Solec 44 Open: Monday 16-, Tuesday-Sunday 12- 83 1500 M2 Do WYNAJĘCIA 1500 SQ. METRES FOR RENT or simply 1500 is one of the biggest clubs with a quality programme of electronic and indie music. Get lost in the labirynth space durroundung a courtyard. In the daytime you can pop in to LoVE AND TrADE – a pop up shop selling young Warsaw fashion brands. ul. Solec 18/20 84 osIr Sierakowskiego Rondo Waszyngtona Konopacka Poselska AL.SOLIDARNOŚCI Francuska Paryska Zwycięzców TARGOWA WYBRZEŻE SZCZECIŃSKIE Jagielońska Kłopotowskiego Most Świętokrzyski Białostocka Tatarska Sołtyka 11 Listopada Wrzesińska Wierzynka AL. WASZYNGTONA Stalowa Inżynierska Wileńska Brzeska Most Poniatowskiego ugosza Saska Obrońców Ząbkowska ZAMOYSKIEGO Sokola Markowska Konopacka Run by bicycle enthusiasts, osir is a cozy bar with a vintage decor across the street from the Chopin Centre. Open: Mon.-Fri. 10 – 2, Sat.-Sun. 12-2 ul. Tamka 40 85 BooKIsH AND ENGLIsH AL.SOLIDARNOŚCI If you happened to leave the Da Vinci Code on the Berlin-Moscow train or want to cultivate an itellectual look at your favourite klubokawiarnia, try ALL THAT STUFF, a small shop packed full of cheap, second hand books shipped straight from Britain. Open: Mon-Fri 10.30-18.30, Sat 10.30-15.30 ul. Solec 18b 86 BooK ME A TABLE To the relief of students, a posh restaurant on the ground floor of the University Library recently gave way to a much more affordable cafeteria REWERS. Lunch will cost you somewhere between 10 and 20 zł. Open: Monday-Sunday 9.30-22 ul. Dobra 56/66 87 CUTE sHoP KIJOWSKA ŻoLIBorZ 21 MURAL Warsaw's graphic duo Twożywo take inspiration from constructivism and Bauhaus to create visually sophisticated and witty murals. This one is a meditation on cleanliness, painted on the wall of a health centre. Address: ul. Żelazna 79 Tarchomińska TARGOWA Girls of every age will love the tiny shop of local fashion brand MYSIKRÓLIK: one owner, two floors, ten square metres, dozens of bales of fabric, hundreds of buttons, thousands of pins and needles. Open: Mon-Fri 11-19 ul. Okólnik 11a, entrance from Ordynacka 88 HEY, sIsTEr! You cannot get behind the gate of the Charity Daughters congregation but while cycling down Kruczkowskiego you can have a look through the fence and see an enormous field in the middle of the city. The nuns grow their own fruit and vegetables and on a lucky day you will see a horse drawn plough in the middle of a 21st century city. ul. Kruczkowskiego 101 CoNTEMPorArY ArT IN A BAroQUE CAsTLE Art lovers cannot miss the Center of Contemporary Art (CSW). In the baroque Ujazdowski Castle (Zamek Ujazdowski) you will find shows of international and Polish artists, a decent permanent collection, a bookshop, the Kino. Lab arthouse cinema, a cosy café and the artsy yet pricey (main courses: 28-68 zł) Qchnia Artystyczna restaurant with stunning views over the park. If you can’t be bothered to go in, at least check out the stone benches in the alley leading to the main entrance – adorned by stone benches by the American artist Jenny Holzer. Open Tue-Sun 11-19, Fridays til 21, closed Mondays, tickets: 12/6 zł, free on Thursdays, Białostocka Gibalskiego Mireckiego POPIEŁUSZKI ŻoLIBorZ Korsaka Piaskowa Skaryszewska Kolska AL. ZIELENIECKA Saska Brzeska Burakowska POWĄZKOWSKA ZAMOYSKIEGO Spokojna Walecznych Dą Radzymińska Okopowa Most iatowskiego Próchnika Ząbkowska Ka Lubelska OKOPOWA Potocka SŁOWACKIEGO Francuska Siedlecka ZAMOYSKIEGO Sokola Markowska Poselsk Esperanto Wolność Kacza Krasińskiego Niegolewskiego KIJOWSKA Francuska GROCHOWSKA Miła Stawki Niska Smocza Anielewicza Rondo Waszyngtona Bellotiego Tarchomińska Mińska Pawia Saska MICKIEWICZA Żoliborz is a leafy modernist neighbourhood with a small-town atmosphere and some surprising history. For instance, it is the only part of Warsaw that David Bowie saw on his way back from russia in 1977. When the train stopped at Warszawa Gdańska station, the rock star took a short walk, incidentally in the direction of Żoliborz, not the centre. He bought a random Polish folk record at a bookshop and got back on the train. A few weeks later he recorded the eponymous album Low, remaking the folk tune into the super-low song Warszawa. The rest is rock n’roll history 107 PArKLIFE Kozietulskiego Kawęczyńska PARK KĘPA POTOCKA is a magnet in spring and summer. You can rent a boat at the canal, have a beer at the cult bar U ARABA and in the evening – admire Maurycy Gomulicki’s neon light installation LIGHTSPURT (Światłotrysk) in the shape of a glass of pink lemonade. 108 WArsAW FooD AL. WASZYNGTONA Dzielna Obrońców Bohomolca Skaryszewska ŻYWICIEL is a neighbourhood restaurant that takes pride in serving typical Warsaw cuisine, e.g. tripe (flaki – 16 zł). For the faint at heart, there are salads and other standard international fare. Plac Inwalidów 10, open: 10-23 109 sPorTs MUsEUM Dzika MUZEUM SPORTU I TURYSTYKI housed in the sleek new Olympic Centre, is a collection of sAsKA KĘPA 118 119 110 111 116 114 115 113 M 112 r Korsaka AL. ZIELENIECKA 117 21 MURAL 109 Warsaw's graphic duo Twożywo take inspiration from constructivism and Bauhaus to create visually sophisticated and 107 witty murals. This one is a meditation on cleanliness, painted on the wall of a health centre. Address: ul. Żelazna 79 Felińskiego Dzika Radzymińska Wojska Polskiego JANA PAWŁA II Sułkowskiego Krasińskiego pl. Wilsona ZAMOYSKIEGO SŁOMIŃSKIEGO Lubelska Karmelicka 108 Nowolipki Francus Czarnieckiego Zajączka Inflancka Niska Miła Nowolipie Gwiaździsta Mierosławskiego Siedlecka Stawki Dubois Dzielna Śmiała MICKIEWICZA Pokorna Rondo Waszyngtona Kaniowska Kawęczyńska 3000 sports memorabilia and a permanent exhibition on Polish Olympic victories. If the sight of all these gold and silver medals makes you feel like practising yourself, try the horse stable AGMAJA next door (open: Tuesday-Sunday). Open: Tue-Fri 9-17, Sat-Sun 10-17, admission: 4-8 zł ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 110 WAKING UP THE 110 NEIGHBoUrs PRACOVNIA ART CLUB One of very few night spots in Żoliborz with concerts on weekends and week nights – a good place to get to know Polish alternative scene: from reggae to rock to jazz. ul. Popiełuszki 16 111 CoYoTE CLUB An alternative to the hip bars of central Warsaw, this unpretentious neighbourhood joint on the first floor of a local department store continues to amaze with the mural depicting coyote against a sunset. Best in the summer for its vast open terrace overlooking Żoliborz. ul. Słowackiego 16/18 Open: 15-1 112 METro sEXY Mińska GROCHOWSKA Pawia Dubois Lewartowskiego Voted the most beautiful of Warsaw’s metro stations, PLAC WILSONA, at Żoliborz’s main square, is certainly the most extravagant, with multicolour lighting on the ceiling and concrete mushroom-shaped canopies over the exits. Bowie worshippers are kindly asked to lay flowers in front of the Empik bookstore in Plac Wilsona, where divine David bought a record. Zamenhofa Nowolipki AL. WASZYNGTONA Saska Kr Anielew AL.SOLIDA
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