01 TIME MACHINE 02 For TECHIEs - Use It Warsaw

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usa Solec zkowskiego al. Na Skarpie Jazdów Zajęcza Tamka Dobra kie Książęca Myśliwiecka Rozbrat A Solec Ludna Czerniakowska Koźmińska Górnośląska Fabryczna Most Poniatowskiego SOLEC Walecznych Dąbrowiecka WAŁ MIĘDZYSZYŃSKI Katowicka Most Łazienkowski Francuska Rondo Waszyngtona Poselska Francuska Paryska Zwycięzców 25 CHEAP AND CHIC BArs PAWILONY - a cluster of shabby pavilions in the back of the touristy Nowy Świat is one of the main meeting places for young people, catered to by a dozen or so funky bars. PEWEX is the oldest and perhaps still the best of them. Despite some signs of gentrification (sushi bar! air conditioning!), all places remain affordable. Enter the courtyard through two gates from Nowy Świat. ul. Nowy Świat 22/28/33 AL. WASZYNGTONA Saska Obrońców Saska 26 EXTENDED FUN MAGDA JENSEN USA My absolute favourite thing about Warsaw are the parks and green spaces. In the summer, the city comes alive with frisbee at Plac Zabaw, coffee and badminton at Kafka, biking around in Praga and dancing at Cud Nad Wisla until the sun comes up over the river. One must do: lunch during the week at U Kucharzy. A 20-zloty culinary dream! When the bar Plan B got too popular to accomodate the punters and still keep the neighbours happy, its owners decided to open a bigger, neighbour-free place. Come to POWIĘKSZENIE (Blow-Up) for evening drinks, theatre performances and an ambitious concert/party programme. ul. Nowy Świat 27 35 oBIEKT oF DEsIrE By day OBIEKT ZNALEZIONY (Fo is a modestly priced (25 zł for sou course) lunch venue, by night it tr into a beast – one of the most po clubs in the city, located in the ba the Zachęta Art Gallery. Open dai pl. Małachowskiego 3 36 ArTIsTIC ENCoUrAG Housed in a pompous fin-de-siec since 1901, ZACHĘTA is Warsaw’s contemporary art gallery. Hosts e of leading Polish and foreign 20th century artists, an art book shop w est souvenir section. Its name is d the historic Society for the Encou of Arts. Open daily 12-20, closed o free on Thursday. ul. Małachowskiego 3 37 TrIBUTE To THE UNK 37 soLDIEr The three arches of what once wa of the Saxon Palace houses the T the Unknown Soldier. The site wa dedicated to the victims of WWII i In a miraculous twist of fate, the th survived also the Second World W a story that Wehrmacht soldiers e Warsaw in 1945 simply refused to this part of the building as a sign soldiers buried there 20 years ea pl. Piłsudskiego a Rozdrożu WA Dolna Agrykola AL. ARMII LUDOWEJ 34 Myśliwiecka 16 sTALIN’s WEDDING CAKE PALACE OF CULTURE AND SCIENCE (Pałac Kultury i Nauki), built by Polish and Russian architects in the 1950s, is a cousin to Moscow’s famous “Seven Daughters of Stalin”. For decades regarded as a symbol of Soviet domination it is still equally loved and loathed. An icon of the city and an infallible orientation point. Seeing the panorama from observation deck at the 30th floor is a must and helps make sense of the city. Admire gargantuan sculptures and check the time on the millennium clock. In the winter enjoy the ice skating rink by the northern entrance, which in the summer turns into a basketball court. Observation deck Open daily 16 September- 31 May: 9-18, 1 July-15 September: 9-20, tickets: 20/15 zł. Entrance from ul. Marszałkowska side, ask at the reception for directions to the ticket booth. MAGGIE ZBIERSKA USA Arti is an authentic Indian restaurant on Francuska Street in Saska Kępa. I love going there for the great food and great atmosphere, even the waitresses are dressed in true Indian style! Łazienkowska PHO 21 A Szwoleżerów ART GALLERY CZERNIAKOWSKA PHO SOUP GOING OUT HOSTEL 21 21 FOOD TRAM SIGHTSEEING M 21 SHOP METRO the cinema, not the theatre… It best sums up the atmosphere of the place, preserved in its Stalinist glory. Interior décor aside, Muranów is a great arthouse cinema showing the best European and independent productions, conveniently located next to the Arsenał Ratusz metro station. In the foyer, there’s also a small café and the Celuloid shop where film buffs can buy books, DVDs, posters and the like. For a cheap date, book tickets for a Monday showing. In the summer check out the re-run programme to catch up on the films you missed during the preceding season. ul. Gen. Andersa 1 19 FUTUrE JEWIsH CENTrE The vast green square, named after Willy Brandt, the German Chancellor who contributed to a reconciliation between Germans, Jews and Poles after WWII, is a must-see for anyone interested in Jewish culture and history. The monumental GHETTO HEROES MEMORIAL and the surrounding blocks built in the 1950s and 1960s are situated directly on the site of the ruined Jewish neighbourhood. If you go south towards ul. Nowolipie, you will even see buildings elevated above street level on a layer of soil and rubble. Willy Brandt square also represents the future – the spectacular MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF POLISH JEWS is being built here. Before it becomes reality you can just join the locals who like to walk their dogs and sunbathe on the green square behind the museum. You can also take bus #180 or walk to the old JEWISH CEMETERY. ul. Anielewicza 9 27 CHECK oUT MY PoNCHECK Pączek (pronounced ‘poncheck’, a doughnut of sorts) is Poland’s favourite pastry. To taste the best, join the queue in Chmielna street and buy a freshly baked pączek through the window. ul. Chmielna 13 28 HIP LUNCH sPoT No longer the secret hipster central it was in the nineties, MIĘDZY NAMI still retains the reputation of an elite fashionista/celebrity/ gay-friendly venue. Perhaps because of the ‘members only’ sign still hanging at the door. In fact it is a casual place for lunch (great home-style lunch menus –available til 4 p.m., under 20 zł for main course), coffee (6,50) or beer (9). Shell out 36 zł for their beautiful inhouse magazine with a sprinkling of text and lots of great photography. Open: 10-23, Friday & Saturday til midnight. ul. Bracka 20 29 CHoCAHoLIC CENTrAL Stock up on pralines or have a cup of hot chocolate in the elegant old-fashioned E. WEDEL FLAGSHIP STORE. Ptasie Mleczko pralines, invented by Wedel in the 1930s, are something you’ll want to take home. ul. Szpitalna 8 30 HIsTorY sPEAKs… …at the History Meeting House (Dom Spotkań z Historią) with interesting exhibition on the recent history of Warsaw and Poland that often onto the green square across the street. ul. Karowa 14 31 THE sToNEs AT THE QUArrY KAMIENIOŁOMY (The Quarry) is a piece of Polish rock ‘n’ roll history: a former hotel bar where the Rolling Stones threw an after party after their notorious 1967 gig at the Palace of Culture. The concert and the party are stuff of legend now. One story has that they were paid with a freight car full of vodka, another one that they mistook salt for cocaine, and there were single mothers blaming Mick Jagger for giving them big lipped babies. Reopened in 2009, Kamieniołomy is a place popular with the student/hipster crowd, HERN My favorite place is the bridge tha the Old Town with the suburb of P there the view at both sides is wo during the night the lights of the b a special atmosphere. And the sig Old Town is something that I enjo morning and, specially, when com from party. 38 AroUND THE CLoCK PRZEKĄSKI ZAKĄSKI, better know ‘Zakąski’ or ‘the Bistro’ is located defunct hotel opposite the posh H and the Presidential Palace. Open day, it is a local institution. Patron bums and crazy old artists to youn Bistro offers a simple menu of cla snacks (herring, sausage, and som stuff that can’t be translated – 8 z and drinks (beer, vodka, wine, coff coke – all 4 zł). Wash the herring two shots of vodka for the ultimat bar experience and admire the ge For a home-made soup or a sand out DELIKATESY GESSLER (Mon-F 9-23, Sun 10-23) next door. To get the expensive U KUCHARZY rest door, at a bargain price, go there time and order a menu set: delicio main and dessert for less than 30 ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 A S Rynek Nowego Miasta, one of the beautiful squares in Warsaw, colo quite. I love to sit in summertime o benches admiring the church of ś and enjoy the bars and restaurant polish food. Also in the winter, wh is around, this place has somethin snow and silence remind me of th Poland I have seen just in movies
AKOWSKA ALLERY OUP EL 21 21 FOOD TRAM Walecznych Dąbrowiecka WAŁ MIĘDZYSZYŃSKI Katowicka Most Łazienkowski Francuska SIGHTSEEING M 21 SHOP METRO Rondo Waszyngtona Poselska ot the theatre… It best sums up re of the place, preserved in its Interior décor aside, Muranów is se cinema showing the best Eudependent productions, convennext to the Arsenał Ratusz metro foyer, there’s also a small café id shop where film buffs can buy posters and the like. For a cheap kets for a Monday showing. In heck out the re-run programme the films you missed during the son. rsa 1 rE JEWIsH CENTrE n square, named after Willy erman Chancellor who contributciliation between Germans, Jews r WWII, is a must-see for anyone Jewish culture and history. The GHETTO HEROES MEMORIAL unding blocks built in the 1950s e situated directly on the site of wish neighbourhood. If you go s ul. Nowolipie, you will even elevated above street level on and rubble. Willy Brandt square ts the future – the spectacular THE HISTORY OF POLISH JEWS here. Before it becomes reality oin the locals who like to walk d sunbathe on the green square useum. You can also take bus to the old JEWISH CEMETERY. a 9 Francuska Paryska Zwycięzców 25 CHEAP AND CHIC BArs PAWILONY - a cluster of shabby pavilions in the back of the touristy Nowy Świat is one of the main meeting places for young people, catered to by a dozen or so funky bars. PEWEX is the oldest and perhaps still the best of them. Despite some signs of gentrification (sushi bar! air conditioning!), all places remain affordable. Enter the courtyard through two gates from Nowy Świat. ul. Nowy Świat 22/28/33 AL. WASZYNGTONA Saska Obrońców Saska 26 EXTENDED FUN When the bar Plan B got too popular to accomodate the punters and still keep the neighbours happy, its owners decided to open a bigger, neighbour-free place. Come to POWIĘKSZENIE (Blow-Up) for evening drinks, theatre performances and an ambitious concert/party programme. ul. Nowy Świat 27 27 CHECK oUT MY PoNCHECK Pączek (pronounced ‘poncheck’, a doughnut of sorts) is Poland’s favourite pastry. To taste the best, join the queue in Chmielna street and buy a freshly baked pączek through the window. ul. Chmielna 13 28 HIP LUNCH sPoT No longer the secret hipster central it was in the nineties, MIĘDZY NAMI still retains the reputation of an elite fashionista/celebrity/ gay-friendly venue. Perhaps because of the ‘members only’ sign still hanging at the door. In fact it is a casual place for lunch (great home-style lunch menus –available til 4 p.m., under 20 zł for main course), coffee (6,50) or beer (9). Shell out 36 zł for their beautiful inhouse magazine with a sprinkling of text and lots of great photography. Open: 10-23, Friday & Saturday til midnight. ul. Bracka 20 29 CHoCAHoLIC CENTrAL Stock up on pralines or have a cup of hot chocolate in the elegant old-fashioned E. WEDEL FLAGSHIP STORE. Ptasie Mleczko pralines, invented by Wedel in the 1930s, are something you’ll want to take home. ul. Szpitalna 8 30 HIsTorY sPEAKs… MAGDA JENSEN USA My absolute favourite thing about Warsaw are the parks and green spaces. In the summer, the city comes alive with frisbee at Plac Zabaw, coffee and badminton at Kafka, biking around in Praga and dancing at Cud Nad Wisla until the sun comes up over the river. One must do: lunch during the week at U Kucharzy. A 20-zloty culinary dream! …at the History Meeting House (Dom Spotkań z Historią) with interesting exhibition on the recent history of Warsaw and Poland that often onto the green square across the street. ul. Karowa 14 31 THE sToNEs AT THE QUArrY KAMIENIOŁOMY (The Quarry) is a piece of Polish rock ‘n’ roll history: a former hotel bar where the Rolling Stones threw an after party after their notorious 1967 gig at the Palace of Culture. The concert and the party are stuff of legend now. One story has that they were paid with a freight car full of vodka, another one that they mistook salt for cocaine, and there were single mothers blaming Mick Jagger for giving them big lipped babies. Reopened in 2009, Kamieniołomy is a place popular with the student/hipster crowd, 35 oBIEKT oF DEsIrE By day OBIEKT ZNALEZIONY (Found Object) is a modestly priced (25 zł for soup+main course) lunch venue, by night it transforms into a beast – one of the most popular indie clubs in the city, located in the basement of the Zachęta Art Gallery. Open daily from 12. pl. Małachowskiego 3 36 ArTIsTIC ENCoUrAGEMENT Housed in a pompous fin-de-siecle building since 1901, ZACHĘTA is Warsaw’s oldest contemporary art gallery. Hosts exhibitions of leading Polish and foreign 20th and 21st century artists, an art book shop with a modest souvenir section. Its name is drawn from the historic Society for the Encouragement of Arts. Open daily 12-20, closed on Monday, free on Thursday. ul. Małachowskiego 3 37 TrIBUTE To THE UNKNoWN 37 soLDIEr The three arches of what once was part of the Saxon Palace houses the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The site was initially dedicated to the victims of WWII in the 1920s. In a miraculous twist of fate, the three arches survived also the Second World War. There’s a story that Wehrmacht soldiers escaping Warsaw in 1945 simply refused to blow up this part of the building as a sign of respect to soldiers buried there 20 years earlier. pl. Piłsudskiego 38 AroUND THE CLoCK LUIS HERNANDEZ Spain My favorite place is the bridge that connects the Old Town with the suburb of Praga, from there the view at both sides is wonderful, during the night the lights of the bridges give a special atmosphere. And the sight of the Old Town is something that I enjoy every morning and, specially, when coming back from party. PRZEKĄSKI ZAKĄSKI, better known as ‘Zakąski’ or ‘the Bistro’ is located in the defunct hotel opposite the posh Hotel Bristol and the Presidential Palace. Open 24 hours a day, it is a local institution. Patrons range from bums and crazy old artists to young hipsters. Bistro offers a simple menu of classic Polish snacks (herring, sausage, and some other stuff that can’t be translated – 8 zł each) and drinks (beer, vodka, wine, coffee, tea, coke – all 4 zł). Wash the herring down with two shots of vodka for the ultimate Polish bar experience and admire the geriatric staff. For a home-made soup or a sandwich, check out DELIKATESY GESSLER (Mon-Fri 8-23, Sat 9-23, Sun 10-23) next door. To get a taste of the expensive U KUCHARZY restaurant next door, at a bargain price, go there during lunch time and order a menu set: delicious soup, main and dessert for less than 30 złoty. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 ANDREA SCRIVO Italy Rynek Nowego Miasta, one of the most beautiful squares in Warsaw, colourful and quite. I love to sit in summertime on the benches admiring the church of św. Kazimierz and enjoy the bars and restaurants serving polish food. Also in the winter, when nobody is around, this place has something magic, snow and silence remind me of the old time in Poland I have seen just in movies. gate to the Old Town) stands out because it is the only one where the Dalai Lama popped by for lunch. It also boasts a pleasant summer terrace. ul Mostowa 27/29 45 sWEET FAITH If you find yourself in the touristy Old Town and desperate for a cup of coffee, head straight to the only place respected by the locals – the miniature café TO LUBIĘ (I Like It), housed in the belfry of the Dominican church. Make sure to try the baked apple with ice cream (jabłka zapiekane pod kruszonką, 12 zł). ul. Freta 10 46 PoLIsH-JEWIsH rEsTAUrANT Given the amount of people who visit Warsaw to experience Jewish culture, it is incredible how hard it is to find a decent Jewish restaurant. POD SAMSONEM is really the only place worth recommending, their Jewish and Polish fare is delicious and affordable. Try the goose necks (gęsi pipkes) or the hering and you’ll excuse the lazy service and the extra charges for toilet and cloak room. Packed in the evenings and on weekends, relatively empty lunchtime on weekdays (main courses: 10-30 zł). ul. Freta 3, 5 47 oPErA One of the biggest opera houses in the world, almost 200 years old. So huge you could fit Milan’s La Scala on its stage. Mariusz Treliński’s sometimes iconoclast productions of opera classics are worth every penny and every minute of your attention, even if opera isn’t really your cup of tea pl. Teatralny 1. 48 sMALL-ToWN sPIrIT Rynek Mariensztacki is a small town square, small town square just down the steps behind St. Anne’s Church. Even though it looks old, it is not even a reconstruction – it was completely designed and built after World War II, like a film set, to emulate the atmosphere of a typical Polish small town. All year round you cane relax in café OGRODY (Mon-Fri 8-22, Sat 9-22, Sun 10-22). The square was chosen as one of four venues where the opening of Polish presidency in the EU will be staged, along with plac Defilad (in front of the Palace of Culture), the old power plant in Powiśle – next to the Copernicus Science Centre) and Rynek Nowego Miasta (north of the Old Town). 49 ArE YoU CUrIE-oUs? Maria Skłodowska-Curie (a.k.a. Marie Curie), the genius chemist and physicist who won the Nobel Prize (twice!) was born in this house. Pop in to have a look at the old-fashioned museum in this historic townhouse and find out more about the life and works of this great Warsaw native. Open Tue.: 8:30 – 16, Wed. – Fri.: 9:30 – 16, Sat. 10- 17:30, Sun. 10- 15 ul. Freta 16 50 CoFFEE WINDoW Forget multinational chain coffee bars. 5.29 STAND UP BAR serves take away coffee in paper cups and in style on 5.29 square metres. You can also munch on delicious food at the counter. No tables! Open: Mon-Fri 8-20, Sat 11-18, Sun 11-16 ul. Krucza 51 51 MULTIFoUNTAIN The multimedia fountain park at the foot of the Old Town is the city’s new pride. The fountains will not do your laundry, but other than that they can do anything that can be done with music, light and water. Let the numbers speak: 30 000 litres of water are shot in the air per minute. Enjoy the show. May and September: 21.00; June – August: 21.30 ul. Wybrzeże Gdańskie near ul. Boleść
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