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01 TIME MACHINE 02 For TECHIEs - Use It Warsaw

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M<br />

Bema<br />

iodowa<br />

cka<br />

a<br />

asna<br />

Rektorska<br />

lny<br />

AL. ARMII LUDOWEJ<br />

ykola<br />

Plac Teatralny<br />

Królewska<br />

Wierzbowa<br />

Jasna<br />

Dąbrowiecka<br />

WAŁ MIĘDZYSZYŃSKI<br />

Moniuszki<br />

Katowicka<br />

Most<br />

Łazienkowski<br />

Złota<br />

Mazowiecka<br />

Sienkiewicza<br />

Poznańska<br />

Chmielna<br />

Czackiego<br />

Szpitalna<br />

oselska<br />

Koźmińska<br />

Traugutta<br />

Myśliwiecka<br />

Warecka<br />

Zwycięzców<br />

Górskiego<br />

Chmielna<br />

Widok<br />

lna Wspólna<br />

Hoża<br />

zykowa<br />

wale<br />

oniuszki<br />

Złota<br />

a Paryska<br />

Wilcza Wilcza<br />

Noakowskiego<br />

Nowowiejska<br />

Rektorska<br />

Mazowiecka<br />

ienkiewicza<br />

Poznańska<br />

Piękna<br />

iego<br />

iejska<br />

Rondo Dmowskiego<br />

Lwowska<br />

Piękna<br />

a<br />

decades. <strong>It</strong> was established by two young<br />

mothers as a children-friendly place, but don’t<br />

expect hordes of screaming toddlers. <strong>It</strong> is<br />

quiet and popular with students who come<br />

here for coffee (from 4,50 zł), cake (6 zł) or<br />

breakfast (10 zł). Open daily: 10-22.<br />

Check out the beautifully designed children’s<br />

magazine Czarodziejska Kura (the Magic Hen)<br />

ran by the owners’ husbands.<br />

ul. Tamka 45b<br />

skiego<br />

Piwna<br />

Lwowska<br />

tojańska<br />

77 KAFKA CAFÉ<br />

Zgoda<br />

Chmielna<br />

Traugutta<br />

Czackiego<br />

ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKA<br />

Zgoda<br />

Warecka<br />

Szpitalna<br />

Nowogrodzka<br />

MARSZAŁOWSKA<br />

Plac Konstytucji<br />

Śniadeckich<br />

Polna<br />

Batorego<br />

Bednarska<br />

Żurawia<br />

Chmielna<br />

Widok<br />

Nowogrodzka<br />

MARSZAŁOWSKA<br />

Śniadeckich<br />

Polna<br />

Rakowiecka<br />

Bednarska<br />

KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE<br />

Górskiego<br />

Żurawia<br />

Wspólna<br />

WARYŃSKIEGO<br />

Karowa<br />

Karowa<br />

ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKA<br />

Marien sztat<br />

Krucza<br />

Obrońców<br />

Górnośląska<br />

Marien sztat<br />

Krucza<br />

Mokotowska<br />

Polna<br />

Fabryczna<br />

NOWY ŚWIAT<br />

Wilcza<br />

Furmańska<br />

NOWY ŚWIAT<br />

Łazienkowska<br />

Ordynacka<br />

Piękna<br />

Kopernika<br />

Gałczyńskiego<br />

Bracka<br />

Kopernika<br />

Okólnik<br />

Szwoleżerów<br />

Mokotowska<br />

Koszykowa<br />

Marszałkowska<br />

Sewerynów<br />

Browarna<br />

Bartoszewicza<br />

Rondo De Geulle’a<br />

Plac Trzech Krzyży<br />

Foksal<br />

Smolna<br />

Chopina<br />

al. Wyzwolenia<br />

Plac Zbawiciela<br />

Plac Unii Lubelskiej<br />

Mokotowska<br />

NOWY ŚWIAT<br />

Furmańska<br />

Filled with students from the nearby university,<br />

KAFKA is famous not just for the coffee<br />

and the beautiful interior, but also for the<br />

book-swap programme. You can bring your<br />

own book and exchange it for any book from<br />

94 HIP sTrEETs<br />

KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE<br />

Mokotowska has grown into a fashion street<br />

recently. Along with shops where rich suburban<br />

women can live out their California fantasies,<br />

and youth-oriented multibrands like FUMO, you<br />

can find flagships of young Polish brands: from<br />

<strong>Warsaw</strong> street label TURBOKOLOR (at Veteran<br />

skate shop Mokotowska 28) to super-sophisticated<br />

and super-<strong>Warsaw</strong> ANIA KUCZYŃSKA (at<br />

Mokotowska 61).<br />

95 sTrEET MUFFIN<br />

GOODIES is the first shop in Poland that sells<br />

only muffins and cupcakes, in many shapes<br />

and colours (6 zł each), different everyday<br />

including strange flavours far from the chain<br />

coffee shop spectrum. The cute café rubs<br />

shoulders with a skate/streetwear shop.<br />

Open: Mon-Fri 11-19, Sat 11:30-19<br />

ul. Koszykowa 58<br />

96 ArT BITE<br />

NOWY ŚWIAT<br />

Adorned with paintings by one of the biggest<br />

contemporary Polish painters Marcin Maciejowski,<br />

PRZEGRYŹ (‘have a bite’) serves the best<br />

pierogi in town and other unbeatable Polish<br />

classics (duck, goose) plus pasta and salads.<br />

ul. Mokotowska 52<br />

97 BooKs BY NUMBErs<br />

NUMERY LITERY (Numbers and Letters) is a<br />

small and comfy cafe with a small but careful<br />

ŚrÓDMIEŚCIE PoŁUDNIoWE<br />

89<br />

105<br />

95<br />

Plac Konstytucji<br />

M<br />

91<br />

o<br />

92<br />

90<br />

97<br />

Piękna<br />

Kopernika<br />

Ordynacka<br />

Gałczyńskiego<br />

Sewerynów<br />

Bracka<br />

Litewska<br />

Zoli<br />

Dobra<br />

Wiślana<br />

Oboźna<br />

Bartoszewicza<br />

Rondo De Geulle’a<br />

Kopernika<br />

Koszykowa<br />

PUŁAWSKA<br />

Browarna<br />

Plac Trzech Krzyży<br />

P<br />

106<br />

94<br />

93<br />

the fascade of the public library in ul. Radna<br />

reminding that Maria Skłodowska-Curie was<br />

indeed born in <strong>Warsaw</strong>.<br />

ul. Dobra 56/66<br />

Mokotowska<br />

Radna<br />

TAMKA<br />

Okólnik<br />

Foksal<br />

Smolna<br />

Chocimska<br />

al. Szucha<br />

Chopina<br />

Cicha<br />

Saska<br />

Lipowa<br />

Wiejska<br />

Bagatela<br />

al. Wyzwolenia<br />

Plac Zbawiciela<br />

81 CoPErNICUs rEVoLUTIoN<br />

Dobra<br />

Wiślana<br />

Oboźna<br />

Konopnickiej<br />

AL. UJAZDOWSKIE<br />

CZERNIAKOWSKA<br />

Dobra<br />

Drewniana<br />

Radna<br />

TAMKA<br />

Topiel<br />

Matejki<br />

zucha<br />

Lipowa<br />

BELWEDERSKA<br />

Johna Lennona<br />

Prusa<br />

Wybrzeże<br />

Kościuszkowskie<br />

Solec<br />

Kruczkowskiego<br />

Cicha<br />

Wiejska<br />

al. Na Skarpie<br />

Jazdów<br />

Zajęcza<br />

Tamka<br />

Plac Na Rozdrożu<br />

SPACEROWA<br />

Konopnickiej<br />

Dobra<br />

Drewniana<br />

Topiel<br />

Matejki<br />

Dobra<br />

O<br />

Książęca<br />

Johna Lennona<br />

WYBRZEŻE SZCZECIŃSKIE<br />

The COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE (Centrum<br />

Nauki Kopernik) is the first big public<br />

building built directly on the riverfront, a wildly<br />

popular (200,000 visitors in first 3 months)<br />

place for discovering science, soon to open<br />

a 24 hour roof top park, set to rival the one at<br />

the nearby university library.<br />

Open: Tue-Fri 9-18, Sat Sun 10-19, tickets: 22<br />

(adults) / 16 (students)<br />

ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20,<br />

Sokołowska<br />

Obozowa<br />

Zawiszy<br />

Złocienia<br />

Syreny<br />

Grenady<br />

Żytnia<br />

Most<br />

Świętokrzyski<br />

Rabsztyńska<br />

Myśliwiecka<br />

Prusa<br />

Wybrzeże<br />

Kościuszkowskie<br />

selection of books and magazines. Focus on<br />

art, interiors and fiction. One of our afternoon<br />

favourites.<br />

ul. Wilcza 26<br />

98 EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED<br />

A gallery of sorts run by Bęc Zmiana foundation<br />

is a meeting place and a natural starting<br />

point for everyone interested in culture. You<br />

will leave with your pockets stuffed with leaflets<br />

and a bag full of beautiful books.<br />

ul. Mokotowska 65<br />

99 23-HoUr PArTY PEoPLE<br />

Solec<br />

Kruczkowskiego<br />

The corner bar SZPILKA is open 23 hours a<br />

day (break between 6-7). Breakfast is also<br />

served 23 hours a day - it’s your business<br />

what you choose to call morning.<br />

Plac Trzech Krzyży 18<br />

100 UN-FINNIsH sYMPATHY<br />

al. Na Skarpie<br />

Zajęcza<br />

Rozbrat<br />

Agrykola<br />

Jazdów<br />

Tamka<br />

Hidden behind the sleek German and French<br />

embassies you will find a bit of Scandinavian<br />

countryside right in the middle of the city. <strong>It</strong> is<br />

a colony of ca. 30 temporary wooden houses<br />

built along Jazdów street in 1945 for construction<br />

workers rebuilding the ruined city. They<br />

came from Finland via Soviet Union, were<br />

supposed to last for 5 years but somehow<br />

stayed, making up a beautiful and calm neighbourhood<br />

in the heart of the city.<br />

ul. Jazdów<br />

99<br />

98<br />

96<br />

1<strong>02</strong><br />

100<br />

1<strong>01</strong><br />

Plac Na Rozdrożu<br />

103 104<br />

Dobra<br />

Most<br />

Łazienkowski<br />

Jana Ostroga<br />

Wawrzyszewska<br />

Syreny<br />

Agawy<br />

Książęca<br />

GÓRCZEWSKA<br />

WOLSKA<br />

AL. ARMII LUDOWEJ<br />

two floors, ten square metres, dozens of bales<br />

of fabric, hundreds of buttons, thousands of<br />

pins and needles.<br />

Open: Mon-Fri 11-19<br />

ul. Okólnik 11a, entrance from Ordynacka<br />

WYBRZEŻE SZCZECIŃSKIE<br />

Płocka<br />

Solec<br />

Ludna<br />

Czerniakowska<br />

Ludwiki<br />

Płocka Płocka<br />

Koźmińska<br />

Myśliwiecka<br />

KASPRZAKA<br />

Myśliwiecka<br />

Most<br />

Świętokrzyski<br />

Rozbrat<br />

Agrykola<br />

Działdowska<br />

Tyszkiewicza<br />

Krzyżanowskiego<br />

Tatarska<br />

88 HEY, sIsTEr!<br />

Sołtyka<br />

Górnośląska<br />

Fabryczna<br />

Most<br />

Poniatowskiego<br />

Wierzynka<br />

Długosza<br />

Skierniewicka<br />

Wawelberga<br />

Brylowska<br />

SOLEC<br />

Łazienkowska<br />

AL. ARMII LUDOWEJ<br />

Solec<br />

Staszica<br />

Szwoleżerów<br />

ZAMOYSKIEGO<br />

Ludna<br />

Czerniakowska<br />

Sokola<br />

You cannot get behind the gate of the Charity<br />

Daughters congregation but while cycling<br />

down Kruczkowskiego you can have a look<br />

through the fence and see an enormous field<br />

in the middle of the city. The nuns grow their<br />

own fruit and vegetables and on a lucky day<br />

you will see a horse drawn plough in the<br />

middle of a 21st century city.<br />

ul. Kruczkowskiego<br />

1<strong>01</strong><br />

CoNTEMPorArY ArT IN<br />

A BAroQUE CAsTLE<br />

Art lovers cannot miss the Center of Contemporary<br />

Art (CSW). In the baroque Ujazdowski<br />

Castle (Zamek Ujazdowski) you will find shows<br />

of international and Polish artists, a decent<br />

permanent collection, a bookshop, the Kino.<br />

Lab arthouse cinema, a cosy café and the<br />

artsy yet pricey (main courses: 28-68 zł) Qchnia<br />

Artystyczna restaurant with stunning views<br />

over the park. If you can’t be bothered to go<br />

in, at least check out the stone benches in the<br />

alley leading to the main entrance – adorned<br />

by stone benches by the American artist<br />

Jenny Holzer. Open Tue-Sun 11-19, Fridays til<br />

21, closed Mondays, tickets: 12/6 zł, free on<br />

Thursdays,<br />

ul. Jazdów 2<br />

1<strong>02</strong> LICENsE To GrILL<br />

Młynarska<br />

Rogalińska<br />

Koźmińska<br />

Myśliwiecka<br />

CZERNIAKOWSKA<br />

Żytnia<br />

Sausage, beer, football – if this is your thing,<br />

enjoy it in the outdoor bars over a nice fountain,<br />

with a view towards the river.<br />

Aleja Na Skarpie<br />

103 FrEE CHoPIN CoNCErT<br />

The most pleasant way to experience Chopin’s<br />

music is to attend a (free!)<br />

OPEN-AIR PIANO CONCERT<br />

AT THE CHOPIN MONUMENT,<br />

May to August, every Sunday at<br />

12 and 16.<br />

The Royal Łazienki Park<br />

104 THE roYAL ŁAZIENKI PArK<br />

Founded in 18th century as the king’s private<br />

suburban pleasuredome, the Łazienki park<br />

is one of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s top tourist attractions. A<br />

long lake, several palaces, a fake ruin of an<br />

amphitheatre, two greenhouses plus a flock of<br />

peacocks strolling around all add to its charm.<br />

In the summer you can even take a ride on the<br />

lake in a gondola – only 6 zł/person. Beware<br />

of overpriced cafes. The park is crowded on<br />

weekends, nice and quiet on weekdays, open<br />

daily from dawn til dusk, no cycling allowed.<br />

ul. Agrykoli 1<br />

105 DAILY PITA<br />

Kolejowa<br />

Gibalskiego<br />

Mireckiego<br />

Karolkowa<br />

Górnośląska<br />

TEL AVIV is a taste of modern Middle East in<br />

<strong>Warsaw</strong> (minus the bombs!) and a part of a<br />

growing empire of Israeli bars and restaurants<br />

– a welcome alternative to places focused only<br />

on the tradition of Polish Jews. Israeli snacks<br />

(humus and pita: 16 zł) in a cool interior.<br />

Open: Mon-Thu 8.30-22, Fri 8.30-24, Sat-Sun<br />

10-22<br />

ul. Poznańska 11<br />

106 GooD CHArLoTTE<br />

Our CHARLOTTE is a two-faced girl: a bakery<br />

in the daytime, a wine bar in the evening.<br />

Even if you find it a bit too posh, you will<br />

appreciate the fact that freshly baked bread<br />

and baguette are sold here all week and all<br />

day long, from 7 a.m. till midnight. Footnote:<br />

as soon as the owners put a sign ‘Bread and<br />

Wine’ in their window, Plan B next door put<br />

‘beer and vodka’ at their entrance.<br />

Plac Zbawiciela<br />

Mon-Sat 7-24, Sun 9-22<br />

Kolska<br />

LESZNO<br />

Siedmiogrodzka<br />

Szarych Szeregów<br />

Fabryczna<br />

GRZYMAŁY<br />

licki’s neon light installation LIGHT<br />

(Światłotrysk) in the shape of a gla<br />

lemonade.<br />

Skary<br />

AL. ZIELENIECKA<br />

POWĄZKOWSKA<br />

ZAMOYSKIEGO<br />

Karolkowa<br />

AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE<br />

Korczaka<br />

Spokojna<br />

Walecznych<br />

Dąbrowiecka<br />

WAŁ MIĘDZYSZYŃSKI<br />

Kacza<br />

Wolska<br />

Jaktorowska<br />

Przyokopowa<br />

Okopowa<br />

Most<br />

Poniatowskiego<br />

Katowicka<br />

Most<br />

Łazienkowski<br />

SOLEC<br />

Łazienkowska<br />

Sękocińska<br />

Joteyki<br />

Lubelska<br />

ZAMOYSKIEGO<br />

108 WArsAW FooD<br />

Sokola<br />

OKOPOWA<br />

Francuska<br />

sAsKA KĘPA<br />

Poselska<br />

Barska<br />

Anie<br />

Bellotie<br />

Wolność<br />

Kacza<br />

TOWAROWA<br />

Esperanto<br />

Przyokopowa<br />

Hrubieszowska<br />

Kolejowa<br />

Mił<br />

Francuska P<br />

Zwycięzców<br />

Niemcew<br />

Kaliska<br />

GROC<br />

ŻYWICIEL is a neighbourhood rest<br />

that takes pride in serving typical W<br />

cuisine, e.g. tripe (flaki – 16 zł). <strong>For</strong><br />

at heart, there are salads and othe<br />

international fare.<br />

Plac Inwalidów 10, open: 10-23<br />

109 sPorTs MUsEUM<br />

MUZEUM SPORTU I TURYSTYKI ho<br />

sleek new Olympic Centre, is a coll<br />

sAsKA KĘPA<br />

118<br />

119<br />

116<br />

AL. W<br />

Rondo Waszyngto<br />

<strong>It</strong> may be the poshest neighbour<br />

side of the river but there is mor<br />

shiny cars and expensive restaur<br />

it, with lots of great new cafes, a<br />

park and modernist houses to ad<br />

113 WHATEVEr FLoATs Y<br />

113<br />

BoAT<br />

There’s something for everyone in<br />

SKARYSZEWSKI – one of the bigg<br />

most beautiful parks in the city, lan<br />

around a century ago to resemble<br />

parts of Poland – from the lakes in<br />

to the mountains in the south. Adm<br />

deco sculptures, have a look at the<br />

Soviet army monument, rent a boa<br />

boat, walk, cycle, picnic…<br />

main entrance at Rondo Waszyngt<br />

the Washington monument<br />

CZERNIAKOWSKA<br />

Rondo D<br />

114 ToILET sWEET ToILE<br />

The pastry shop MISIANKA may hav<br />

into shopping centres recently, but i<br />

here, in a converted public toilet in P<br />

yszewski. Some say the best cake in<br />

Park Skaryszewski<br />

115 F Is <strong>For</strong> FooD<br />

114<br />

115<br />

120<br />

FRANCUSKA, Saska Kępa’s main d<br />

ing with more and more places to<br />

hunger no matter how full your poc<br />

number 2 – there’s EFES, some sa<br />

kebab in town. Pizza lovers can ch<br />

tween the beautifully designed RU<br />

and Saska Kępa’s oldest pizzeria R<br />

(at 33) that serves take away pizza<br />

and legendary french fries. Follow<br />

coffee and cake at F30 (at 30).<br />

116 LoCAL INsTITUTIoN<br />

KĘPA CAFÉ is Saska Kępa’s origina<br />

klubokawiarnia, a favourite local h<br />

fair trade products and a cosy atm<br />

1<br />

AL. U

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