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magnilux - Astronomy Technology Today

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THE “HOME DEPOT” SCOPE<br />

Image 3a-3c: A movable battery box serves as both power source for the cooling fan and adjustable counterweight for balancing the<br />

heaviest eyepieces. Details of the primary-mirror cell are available at www.rfroyce.com.<br />

stronger adhesive than glue.<br />

Next, I built the mirror mount using<br />

guidance from Bob Royce’s web site.<br />

Shower curtain rods were then cut to size,<br />

adding about two extra inches to allow for<br />

possible errors in my tube length calculations.<br />

They were placed in the holes of the<br />

mirror tube section end-rings and secured<br />

with screws. At this point, I coated both<br />

cardboard tube sections, the mirror<br />

mount and end plate, and the end rings<br />

on the mirror tube section with epoxy<br />

resin. End-rings on the front tube section<br />

were left uncoated. When the resin was<br />

dry, I installed the mirror, diagonal assembly,<br />

and focuser. The front tube section<br />

was then slid into position on the<br />

rods but was not secured, allowing for adjustment<br />

of the OTA length.<br />

With mirror, diagonal, and an eyepiece<br />

in place, the telescope was pointed at<br />

Polaris. The front tube section was then<br />

moved back and forth until the focal<br />

plane was just where I wanted it in the focuser<br />

tube. Then it was back to the garage,<br />

to lock the forward tube section in place<br />

with screws, and apply epoxy to the end<br />

rings. This pretty much completed the<br />

assembly of the OTA, except for two<br />

additional small aluminum tubes to provide<br />

extra stiffness in the altitude plane.<br />

That may have been overkill, but it<br />

seemed worthwhile to invest an additional<br />

five dollars to add more strength to the<br />

structure. There has been no detectable<br />

flexure of the tube, regardless of eyepiece<br />

weight.<br />

Design and construction of the<br />

mount was “Dob-basic,” with two exceptions:<br />

where the heavier 3/4-inch plywood<br />

was used, I made as many weight-saving<br />

cut-outs as I could without sacrificing<br />

much stiffness; and support boards for the<br />

altitude bearings are separate and removable<br />

from the box. This allowed me to use<br />

lighter-weight 1/2-inch plywood for the<br />

box, and gave me the option of changing<br />

the size or configuration of the altitude<br />

bearings if I wanted to, for any reason. In<br />

retrospect, this change from a basic box<br />

was probably unnecessary. But I’m pleased<br />

that the result is a very steady mount that<br />

weighs only fifteen pounds. And the largediameter<br />

altitude bearings provide smooth<br />

motion with relative insensitivity to<br />

balance.<br />

Some Accessories<br />

A recent addition to the mount<br />

(Image 2) is a set of simple and cheap<br />

wheelbarrow handles and wheel sets that<br />

allow the scope to be moved as a single<br />

unit. Materials included two 7-inch lawnmower<br />

wheels with mounting bolts, two<br />

1-inch by 2-inch pine boards, two small<br />

pieces of scrap 1/4-inch plywood, four<br />

hooks that screw into the handles, and<br />

four eyes that screw into the sides of the<br />

box. By mounting the wheels on the outside<br />

of the handles and the hooks on the<br />

underside of the handles, torque keeps the<br />

handles pushing firmly against the side of<br />

the box. Works well, was easy to make,<br />

and cost about twenty dollars. The 1-inch<br />

by 2-inch boards may seem a little small,<br />

<strong>Astronomy</strong> TECHNOLOGY TODAY 65

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